Where Magazine Berlin Sep 2018 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

SEPTEMBER 2018

Our favorite must-see spots PLUS SHOW SEASON BEST FLEA MARKETS

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Berlin

CONTENTS

09.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

7 Editor’s Note

German brands that will turn cooking into a culinary highlight.

Highlights of the month, including music, art, literature, and a fireworks finale.

SIGHTSEEING

Take a peep into the locals' private homes.

66 8

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Berlin Art Week, an opportunity to simultaneously find and lose yourself.

DINING

A chef so good it's best to let him set your menu.

20 Ask The Concierge Berlin's concierges divulge their secrets.

ENTERTAINMENT

Words from renowned violinist Isabelle Faust.

66 My Berlin Maya Sriqui Sharing her earth-friendly, made-in-Berlin candles and personal sightseeing tips.

NIGHTLIFE

Bavaria is coming to Berlin – get ready for Oktoberfest!

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

Circus, vaudeville, and revue: three new shows to celebrate the opening of the theater season. BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

Sundays in Berlin are for flea markets. Find your treasures here.

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16 Life Is One Big Show

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PLUS SHOW SEASON BEST FLEA MARKETS

Nobody knows the city better than the locals. Here are our alltime favorite, must-see spots.

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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GABI NGCOBO © MASIMBA SASA, COURTESY OF BERLIN BIENNALE; ZIMMERLI: COURTESY OF ZIMMERLI; STAUNEN: COURTESY OF WINTERGARTEN VARIETE PROMOTION; THE MAGIC FLUTE: © IKO FREESE / DRAMA-BERLIN.DE; CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE; CANDLE: COURTESY OF MAYA SRIQUI.

8 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

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As the autumn days grow cooler, why not treat yourself to something hot? Set off in your dream sports car. Exhilaration, adrenaline and goose bumps included. Visit us at www.porsche.de/drive and reserve your dream Porsche. Or do it in person at Porsche Drive, Franklinstrasse 23 in Berlin or at one of our other locations in Stuttgart, on Sylt or in Rotkreuz (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 12.3–10.9 · extra urban 7.0–6.6 · combined 9.0–8.2; CO₂ emissions combined 208–184/km

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

A New Season They say the new year starts on 1 January but I've never really understood why, since it's in September, right after the summer break, that most activities start anew. The lazy summer days are over, the school year begins, and even if we have been out of school for what feels like years, we all have the right energy for a fresh start. It seems like Berlin feels the same way: A brand-new fashion season is kicking in, there are new exhibitions, and the former Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle is reopening as the PalaisPopulaire at its new location in the Prinzessinnenpalais. All the best musical insitutions are getting together at the annual Musikfest (p. 55) to celebrate the new classical season, and if you are in the mood for some color and acrobatics, check out the new shows debuting these days, ranging from circus and dance to special effects (p. 16). Enjoy!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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motto: roASt triP 17. - 23. 9. In whole berlin set-menus from € 19,www.berlinfoodweek.de C O U N T RY PA R T N E R :

S U P P O R T E D B Y:

AND:

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HOT

DATES

September is an exciting month to be in Berlin. From circus festivals and classical music to book readings and art exhibitions, this month is filled with fabulous events.

16 x

BERLIN MARATHON SUNDAY

Run your heart outâ€Ś or just get tired watching! More than 40,000 international athletes set off each fall on what is said to be the fastest course in the world, cheered on by a million spectators, live bands, and dance groups to keep the pace. Forty-two kilometers may seem far, but the unbeatable atmosphere and sightseeing will hopefully distract the athletes from the pain. www.bmwberlin-marathon.com

PYRONALE SATURDAY

A dazzling explosion of color and music! Each year pyrotechnicians across Europe take over Berlin's Olympic Stadium, battling it out in a heated display of fireworks and trying to bring home the glittering Pyronale trophy. This year brings together audience favorites from previous years, so the competition is set to be especially fierce. www.pyronale.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

MUSIKFEST UNTIL TUESDAY

Every year, Musikfest marks the beginning of Berlin's concert season after the summer break. During this time, Berlin’s concert halls resound with classical music performed by some of the best orchestras, choirs, and chamber ensembles from around the globe. This year’s focus will be on Bernd Alois Zimmermann on his 100th birthday and on Claude Debussy on the 100th anniversary of his death. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

BERLIN BIENNALE UNTIL SUNDAY

Every two years, the capital transforms into a giant exhibition space for this renowned contemporary art event. Titled We Don’t Need Another Hero after the famous Tina Turner song, this year’s Biennale reflects a modern sentiment of self-preservation amid systems of hierarchy and oppression, and mainly takes place at the KW Institute for Contemporary Art, Volksbühne Pavilion, Akademie der Künste, and ZK/U Center for Art and Urbanistics, venues selected for their role in promoting culture. www.berlinbiennale.de

LITERATURE FESTIVAL BERLIN FROM WEDNESDAY

If you believe books are better than sleeping, then this is your kind of festival. Over 11 days, contemporary writers from all over the world present their new prose and poetry to lovers of literature in a series of readings, workshops, and talks. Most events take place at the Haus der Berliner Festspiele and all texts are read in their original language. www.literaturfestival.com www.wheretraveler.com 9

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AUGUST SEPTEMBER

BERLIN CIRCUS FESTIVAL

UNTIL SUNDAY

Step right up, step right up for the last two days of this festival for contemporary circus! Under the big top is an awe-inspiring mix of circus, dance, and theatrical performance, with the rest of Tempelhofer Feld hosting live music, art exhibitions, and food delicacies. Various workshops are also on offer to test out your own acrobatic and juggling skills. www.berlin-circusfestival.de

IFA UNTIL WEDNESDAY

Ideas for the markets of tomorrow, such as eyeglasses for virtual reality applications, superfast 3D scanners, sensors for fitness and health, Sennheiser products, and screens for captivating HDR images are just some of the innovations being showcased at this year’s IFA at Messe Berlin, the world’s leading tradeshow for consumer electronics and home appliances. www.ifa-berlin.de

HERITAGE DAY SUNDAY

Our heritage is important! That’s why once a year, Europe-wide, numerous monuments usually closed to the public open their doors to visitors. Conservators and other experts invite you on guided tours, teaching about the cultural sites and their day-to-day work to preserve them. This year’s motto is “Discover what connects us.” www.tag-des-offenen-denkmals.de

HOT DATES

the explosive finale of the Pyronale 1 Catch fireworks competition at the Maifeld. Romantic crooner James Blunt sings his heart 2 out at the Messe's Sommergarten venue. Hear cutting-edge sounds at the Experimontag 3 night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar. Last chance: the IFA consumer electronics 4 fair wraps up tomorrow at the Messe center. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Konzert at 5 Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." The San Francisco garage rockers known as the 6 Oh Sees rock out tonight at Kreuzberg's SO36. Musikfest continues with the Munich 7 The Philharmonic playing at the Philharmonie. churches, synagogues, mosques & 8 Explore temples in the Long Night of Religions event. massive Lollapalooza music festival is 9 The taking over Olympiastadion this weekend. the Botanical Garden to admire giant lotus 10 Visit flowers in the recently reopened Victoriahaus. Konzerthaus Orchestra performs Dvorak's 11 The moving Requiem at the Philharmonie. Verdi's opera Nabucco at Deutsche Oper, 12 See the story of Hebrew slaves in Babylon. the stirring Wanderlust exhibition at Alte 13 Catch Nationalgalerie before it shuts for good Sunday. music, acrobats & video, the China Goes Pop 14 With show at Admiralspalast promises colorful thrills. around for the fall harvest at the kid15 Dig friendly Potato Festival at Domäne Dahlem. Mozart Matinee at Konzerthaus has it all: 16 The great music, coffee, croissants, even childcare. the complex history of Jerusalem in 17 Explore the Jewish Museum's special exhibition. years on and still rocking as much as 18 Twenty-plus ever, Garbage takes the stage at Huxleys tonight. Staatsballett dances the emotional and 19 The evocative Swan Lake at Deutsche Oper. the feast at the Street Food Thursday 20 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. capital's biggest Oktoberfest celebration 21 The kicks off today at Tegel's Zentraler Festplatz. some fantastic cocktails at Kreuzberg's 22 Sample Schwarze Traube, crafted to your personal taste. Grajek brings 1930s German cabaret 23 Sigrid back to vivid life at Kreuzberg's BKA Theater. the early fall foliage on a stroll around 24 Admire the lovely west-end Schlachtensee lake. a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's 25 Take free (and very popular) "lunch concert" at 1pm. get your gallery itinerary sorted... 26 Better Berlin Art Week gets underway today. Stop by Konzerthaus for the early-evening 27 Rush Hour Concert, with jazz and drinks. alt-rock band They Might Be 28 Long-running Giants performs for fans at Columbia Theater. South Korean artist Lee Bul is the 29 Provocative star of a new exhibition at Martin Gropius Bau. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 30 For Tiergarten's Straße der 17. Juni is a must.

See listings for addresses and more info.

PYRONALE: © DAVIDS; MARATHON AND LITERATURE FESTIVAL: © ISTOCK; MUSIKFEST: PHOTO BY MARCO BORGGREVE; HERITAGE DAY: © DR HANS-CHRISTIAN FELDMANN DEUTSCHE STIFTUNG DENKMALSCHUTZ; CIRCUS FESTIVAL: © MIIKKAEL KUKKULA; BERLN BIENNALE: FOTO ANTHEA SCHAAP; GABI NGCOBO, PHOTO BY MASIBA SASA, COURTESY OF BERLIN BIENNALE.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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WHERE NOW | FEATURE

Insider Insights N

obody knows a city better than its locals. As longtime Berlin residents and avowed devotees of this city’s cultural landscape and laidback lifestyle, we have many enthusiastic recommendations to share. So from us to you, these are a few of our favorite things:

by the water on sunny days, and cozy up by the fireplace inside on chilly ones. Come winter, there will be curling and steaming-hot mulled wine out by the pond. Whatever the season, Café am neuen See makes a lovely stop-off for visitors exploring Tiergarten Park or the nearby zoo. Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee.de

1. CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE This park hideaway is so idyllic, it’s hard to believe it exists right in the heart of one of Europe’s biggest cities. Café am neuen See has it all: a pleasant restaurant indoors, a jovial beer garden outdoors, and rowboat rentals on the adjacent pond. Guests can enjoy cold beer and freshly grilled sausages

2. KLUNKERKRANICH In a city known for its creative, anythinggoes lifestyle, it doesn’t get more Berlin than this. An open-air bar, club, music venue, and community garden all rolled into one, Klunkerkranich has transformed the top deck of a mall parking lot into a little slice

of paradise. The aesthetic (think: upcycled wooden pallet furniture) is very Neukölln chic, and the vibes youthful and chill. There are live music and DJ sets almost every night of the week during the warmer months, a canteen serving light meals and snacks, and various huts and lounge areas for getting cozy. Whether for afternoon sunbathing, sunset drinks, or late-night dancing, Klunkerkranich has it all – fantastic views included. Karl-Marx-Str. 66, 5th floor. www.klunkerkranich.org

3. VICTORIA BAR Berlin has no shortage of drinking establishments, but this one is truly special.

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CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE; KLUNKERKRANICH:

The Where team got together to compile their favorite, must-see spots, from classic cocktail bars to post-industrial parks.

WHERE NOW | OUR FAVORITES

Clockwise from left: Café am neuen See; Klunkerkranich; Victoria Bar; an old train locomotive at Naturpark Südgelande; the reclaimed train tracks at Naturpark Südgelände; piano playing at Piano Salon Christophori.

3 5

CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE; KLUNKERKRANICH: COURTESY OF KLUNKERKRANICH; VICTORIA BAR: © VICTORIA BAR; NATURPARK SÜDGELÄNDE: © HOLGER KOPPATSCH, © JACOB SCHMIDT, COURTESY OF GRÜN BERLIN; PIANO: © ISTOCK.

4 Unswayed by any trends or hype over the years, Schöneberg’s Victoria Bar oozes with classic, grown-up cool, with a touch of 1920s Art Deco chic. The bar dates back more than 15 years, long before Potsdamer Straße was the trendy gallery district it is today, and is accordingly staffed with a crew of dapper, expert bartenders who may well have been shaking martinis for longer than you’ve been legally allowed to drink them. The cocktails, needless to say, are excellent as well as strong (try the Martinez), and the ambience unbeatable. Potsdamer Str. 102, www.victoriabar.de

4. NATURPARK SÜDGELÄNDE Berlin has no shortage of great, unique parks,

like Tiergarten, once a hunting ground for the Prussian royals, or Tempelhofer Park, a former airport. But a must-see destination for every outdoor enthusiast is Natur-Park Südgelände, where nature is spectacularly reclaiming the post-industrial setting of a railway yard. Since the trains stopped running here about 25 years ago, wily trees have shot up between rusting tracks and the wooden railway ties are furred over with moss. The sprawling premises are now a protected biosphere with hundreds of flourishing fern, plant, and mushroom varieties, plus a lively community of birds and bees. Scattered amongst the nature are sculptures and art installations, and don’t miss the eye-catching graffiti area near

the entrance. Prellerweg 47-49, www.gruen-berlin.de

5. PIANO SALON CHRISTOPHORI Yes, Berlin has a variety of world-renowned concert halls and orchestras to choose from. But the atmosphere at Piano Salon Christophori in Wedding offers something none of them have: a grassroots, intimate experience in a charmingly rough-aroundthe-edges setting, offering top-class concerts free from any hint of pretension. By day, the massive hall – a former train workshop – is used for restoring antique pianos. By night, the lights dim and rows of mismatched chairs are laid out which soon fill with every kind of music lover. The concerts, primarily but www.wheretraveler.com 13

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WHERE NOW | OUR FAVORITES This photo: Relaxing at Vabali; below: Clärchens Ballhaus.

not exclusively piano, are by donation, and attendees can serve themselves at the open wine bar. What’s not to love? Uferstr. 8-11, www.konzertfluegel.com

6. VABALI SPA When Berlin’s urbanites need to escape and unwind, this luxurious, Balinese-styled spa complex is where they head. Vabali may be just a stone’s throw from Hauptbahnhof, but feels a whole world away. The beautiful premises offer plenty of indoor and outdoor space to spread out and relax, with a variety of pools, hot tubs, and 11 different saunas ranging from a gentle 55° C to a searing, toxin-clearing 95° C. Sweat out every last bit of tension with a session in the Russianstyle banja sauna, infused with the scent of birch leaves, or in a brisk German-style sauna inclusive of a citrus-sea salt body scrub. Let a pro masseuse knead you to an even deeper state of relaxation, or simply bliss out, and have a snooze on one of the lounge areas waterbeds. Seydlitzstr. 6, www.vabali.de

7. CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS Not much is left today of Berlin’s fabulous 1920s, but ballroom and restaurant Clärchens

Ballhaus has managed to survive wars and harsh political regimes while also remaining incomparably charming, with history emanating from each one of its unrenovated, run-down rooms. In 1945, a WWII bomb destroyed the building in front of the Ballhaus, exposing the club to the street and creating the space that is now the beer garden. The ground-floor dance hall hosts a different dance program every night, but if you are there around lunchtime, make sure to visit the Spiegelsaal on the second floor. Once there, take the staircase up to the top for a better view of the grand mirror hall and to spend a few minutes in the secluded smokers’ room, where you can imagine the building’s

past lives. And if you are still in the mood for the mysteries of history and life, just cross the street to the me Collectors Room’s Wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities), showcasing an eerie selection of tiny skeletons, taxidermied animals, and other religious, exotic, and scientific wonders. The exhibition ends with an interesting museum shop carrying a curated range of quirky objects and books, all on the edge between science, nature, and the paranormal. Auguststr. 24, www.ballhaus.de

VABALI: COURTESY OF VABALI; CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS: COURTESY OF CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS.

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just 60 km from Berlin

Take a break

Beach, water, palm trees – 26°C every day and fantastic accommodation

The Tropical Islands Resort A unique tropical holiday resort – offering fun and relaxation all year round!

Just off the A13, Staakow exit Brand Tropical Islands railway station free shuttle bus

www.tropical-islands.de/en

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Life is

ONE BIG

ummer break is over, which means the theater season is back in full swing! Here are three new shows at some of Berlin’s greatest venues.

GLAMOUR À LA LAS VEGAS An icon of Berlin entertainment, the Friedrichstadt-Palast (www.palast. berlin) is the biggest theater stage in the world, meaning it has the longest chorus lines, mind-boggling special effects, and plenty of artistry. Their new VIVID Grand Show will open on 27 September, boasting more than 100 artists and a €12 million production budget for sensational costumes

and out-of-this-world stage sets. The international line-up involved in production is phenomenal, including London-based Irish milliner Philip Treacy. Described as “the world’s most famous milliner,” this avantgarde designer has adorned the heads of some of the best-known public figures, from Lady Gaga to the Queen, and now takes to the stage in an unprecedented style, volume, and shape. Like any revue, rather than narrative storytelling, coherence is achieved through visual imagery as the main character, R’eye, beholds the overwhelming beauty of things often overlooked.

CIRCUS OF STARS Cabaret theater Wintergarten (www. wintergarten-berlin.de) is known for its so-called “Show & Dine” formula, featuring three-course menus designed to match the theme of its current show. Premiering last month, Staunen – Circus of Stars sticks with the circus genre and presents some of the greatest and renowned vaudeville artists of all time. The title literally translates to “be amazed” and this is exactly what you can expect

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WHERE NOW | NEW SHOWS

SHOW Annabelle Mallia tries not to take life too seriously.

– an awe-inspiring, somewhat bizarre, and insanely funny perfomance.

CIRCUS PEEPSHOW Chamäleon (www.chamaeleonberlin.com) has opened the new season with Circa’s Peepshow, a new production from Australia’s multi-award-winning contemporary circus troupe Circa. Housed inside the Hackesche Höfe in a historic ballroom, this is one of the most important stages for new circus – a genre where the focus is on aesthetics and original music. Described as “the rock stars of the circus world,” Circa brings together some of the world’s best acrobatic talent under the creative vision of Yaron Lifschitz. Their latest show completely redefines the genres of cabaret and circus, and takes audiences into a fascinating world, full of spectacular acrobatics, whimsical wit, and charming playfulness. www.wheretraveler.com 17 www.wheretraveler.com 17

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WHERE NOW | FLEA MARKETS

Hilda Hoy knows where to find the city’s best flea market treasures.

undays in Berlin are for flea markets, and not just because all the other shopping options are closed for the day. The numerous markets throughout the city are also a great place to hang out, often offering food and entertainment in addition to the opportunity to browse for one-of-a-kind treasures. Every market has its own personality, so whether it’s antiques, vintage fashions, or kitschy collectibles that you desire, there’s a place just for you. Mauerpark is the site of the biggest market of all, one that every flea market adventurer should experience at least once. The unbeatable variety of goods on offer runs the gamut from East German collectibles to furniture, clothing, and locally made crafts and design objects. The numerous food and drink vendors create something of a carnival atmosphere, buoyed by the raucous outdoor karaoke sessions held all afternoon in the park’s big amphitheater. Every Sunday, 9am–6pm

Just a few blocks away, the flea market at Arkonaplatz is Mauerpark’s more sophisticated sibling. The selection is smaller and a tad pricier but antique hunters and design aficionados will appreciate the more curated selection. Furniture, home décor, and lamps are especially well-represented here, plus vintage prints that will be rather easier to transport home. Every Sunday, 10am–4pm The weekend market at Tiergarten Park’s Straße des 17. Juni, just across from STiergarten station, maintains an

In contrast, the market around Friedrichshain’s Boxhagener Platz in has a down-to-earth neighborhood feel. You’ll find great bargains on retro collectibles, classic records, and household items like alarm clocks and crockery, mixed in with vintage clothing and old cameras. The Platz is ringed with bars and cafés, making it easy to while away a very pleasant afternoon of browsing and relaxing. Every Sunday, 10am–6pm The bimonthly Nowkoelln Flowmarkt has a similarly laid-back vibe. Running along alongside the Maybachufer canal embankment between Pannierstraße and Liberdas Liberdastraße, this small but always lively market is filled with locals clearing out their closets and cabinets, making it the perfect spot to stock up on secondhand fashions. Buskers, street food trucks, waterside views, and a convivial vibe all combine to make this one of the best flea market excursions in town. Sunday, 10 and 24 June, 10am–5pm

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

CALLING ALL BARGAIN HUNTERS

equally high-end atmosphere. Though you’ll find some of the typical flea market hodge hodgepodge the specialty here is proper antiques, like 19th-century porcelain, silverware, and oil paintings in ornate frames. The vendors tend to be flea market pros who focus on one area of expertise – keep an eye out for the guy with an amazing collection of antique harmonicas from around the world. Every Saturday & Sunday, 10am–5pm

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Dejan Urosev, concierge at Hotel Palace Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org

What are the most important aspects of Berlin’s musical life? For me, it’s the diversity of music the city has to offer. Try and find another city in the world that can offer four opera venues or five major symphonic orchestras. Whether classical, popular, or contemporary music, or even opera, church hymns, or jazz, everyone can find music to suit their taste, every day. What is the opera audience like in Berlin? In Berlin, the focus is clearly on the music. As a general rule you can attend concerts dressed casually, the exception being big premieres or special holidays, when people tend to dress up. This is also due to the mix of people you’ll find in a typical Berlin audience – lots of visitors and older regulars, as well as a many students and young From above right to bottom: Trumpet player Uwe Saegebarth from the Konzerthaus; Daniel Barenboim conducts the Staatskapelle; orchestra instruments; the interior of the Staatsoper; a scene from The Magic Flute at the Komische Oper.

people. Of course, this always depends on the program, but overall the Berlin audience is very open-minded and appreciative of high artistic achievements. What operas or concerts would you recommend this month? September marks the start of the new season. The Deutsche Oper will have its annual opening party on 1 September, at the Komische Oper you can enjoy Anatevka (Fiddler on the Roof) and the wonderful Magic Flute, and at the Staatsoper we can look forward to Die Frau ohne Schatten. The Musikfest Berlin is also a highlight. Any secret tips for classical music lovers? The unique atmosphere of the Berliner Philharmoniker at the Waldbühne. Or if you love concerts in churches, castles, monasteries or manor houses, it is worthwhile to visit the Brandenburg Summer Concerts. If this is too far, I’d also recommend the summer concerts in the Botanischer Garten, the new chamber music venue at Boulez Saal, or the organ matinees at the Berliner Dom.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

DEJAN UROSEV: COURTESY OF DEJAN UROSEV; THE MAGIC FLUTE: COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER, © IKO FREESE, DRAMA-BERLIN.DE; ORCHESTRA INSTRUMENTS: © ISTOCK; TRUMPET PLAYER: © MARCO BORGGREVE; DANIEL BARENBOIM: © HOLGER KETTNER; STAATSOPER: COURTESY OF STAATSOPER BERLIN.

People say Berlin is a musical city. Do you agree? Yes, I can absolutely agree with that. Berlin doesn’t just boast a great musical past, but also a diverse musical present. Not only the large opera houses and ensembles, but also the many smaller groups and soloists and independent music scene have established Berlin as a renowned city of music.

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Flaming Passion FLAMING PASSION ...

A gorgeous ring, worthy of admiration: a tantalizing tansanite embedded in a pavée of brilliants.

Juwelier Leicht at Hotel Adlon Unter den Linden 77 • 10117 Berlin Tel. 0049 30 2290212 • Fax 0049 30 2290213 www.juwelier-leicht.de

Berlin • Hamburg • Dresden • Cologne • Pforzheim • Rottach-Egern • On board MS Deutschland where Berlin_September 2018.indd 1

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Let The Cooking Begin There is no denying that Germanengineered products have a top-ranked reputation for quality. Whether an Audi convertible, Montblanc timepiece, or a pair of Adidas running shoes, their attention to detail is second to none, and German cookware is no exception. With these brands by your side, your culinary creations are sure to be perfect. With a tradition spanning more than 160 years, WMF (www.wmf.com, Potsdamer Platz Arcade and Mall of Berlin) is one of the world’s most recognized names in cookware, offering a full line of pots and pans, baking utensils, tableware, knives, electronic equipment, and other necessary gadgets. Pick up their patented stainless steel pan or 68-piece bestseller Palermo cutlery set to show off at your next dinner party. The quality, functionality, and stylish design of WMF products will keep even the fussiest of

gourmet chefs satisfied. Like WMF, Fissler (www.fissler.com) also offers the whole kit and caboodle in kitchen equipment at supreme quality. They don’t have a store here, but Fissler experts are on hand at department stores such as Galeria Kaufhof, Karstadt, and KaDeWe. Having a really good knife is one of the easiest ways to make cooking more enjoyable and efficient. Produced in Solingen, often referred to as the “City of Blades” due to its concentration of premium knife manufacturers, Wüsthof (www.wuesthof.com) has been an iconic brand for German kitchen knives since 1814. Wüsthof knives are known for their precision

cutting edge and pleasing balance of weight, and are available at Galeria Kaufhof, KaDeWe, and cooking specialty store Goldhahn und Sampson. Also based in Solingen, Zwilling J.A. Henckels (www.zwilling-shop.com, Kurfürstendamm 33) dates back even further to 1731. Their knives are equally sharp and impeccably balanced and sought after by professional chefs around the world. The brand, identified by the red twin logo, also produces pots and pans, wine accessories, and a variety of cooking utensils, making it possible to equip your entire kitchen with German-made quality.

COURTESY OF WMF, WÜSTHOF.

Annabelle Mallia seeks out a little German perfection for her kitchen.

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor

is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the

Sweet Dreams! When it comes to getting a good night’s sleep, picking the right pajamas really helps. According to science, the optimal conditions for falling asleep include finding the right body temperature, being comfortable in your clothes and in your bed, and feeling satisfied about your day and yourself. Luxury nightwear brand Zimmerli of Switzerland spent the last 130 years creating sophisticated and understated, but most of all ultra-comfortable night garments for both men and women, focusing on natural fibers and a soft feel. Check out their store on Kurfürstendamm for a selection of robes, pajamas, nightgowns, and everything you need for that one-third of your life you spend sleeping. Kurfürstendamm 38. T: 030.88719679. www.zimmerli.com www.wheretraveler.com 23

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SHOPPING

Autumn color Goodbye summer! Time to update your wardrobe with the right hues.

8 4 7

1. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 2. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 3. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 4. ic Berlin, Münzstraße 5. 5. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 6. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50. 7. Liebeskind, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 8. Unützer, Giesebrechtstraße 10. 9. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69.

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SHOPPING globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Beatrice von Tresckow

This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

the Cold War.

TRIPPEN These Berlin-produced boots are made to last, combining innovative designs with environmental sustainability. Hackesche Höfe, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.trippen.de

SOLEBOX This sneaker paradise has everything for the sporty foot, from trekking shoes to fashionable styles, plus all the latest trends. Nürnberger Str. 14. www.solebox.com

BIRKENSTOCK With a store in Mitte’s fashion district, the famous Birkenstock shoes combine German minimalistic comfort with an urban style that is now popular all over the world. Neue Schönhauser Str. 6-7. www.birkenstock.com

LE COUP Offering contemporary footwear from a hand-picked selection of avant-garde labels, this women’s shoe emporium shows the direction to walk next. Steinstr. 16. www.lecoupshoes.com

Marina Rinaldi

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in high-quality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Blue Tomato

Max Mara

No matter if your cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac

One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic,

Geometric designs by COS (Kurfürstendamm 217, www. cosstores.com).

RICCARDO CARTILLONE With various stores around town, Cartillone sells select Italian designer shoes of the highest quality and caters to the needs of celebrities around the world. Oranienburger Str. 85 www.riccardocartillone.com

Marc Cain

A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. The Ku'damm was West www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. Berlin's most important 61. See website for more locations. shopping strip during T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Boggi Milano

Check out 5 of our favorite shoe shops!

Goldsteg Designer Outlet

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Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

V I S I T T H E C O LO R F U L A L E X A S H O P P I N G C E N T E R A N D E X P LO R E T H E B E R L I N ST Y L E MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA NEW FOOD COURT, OPENING 28 TH OF SEPTEMBER

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

MORE THAN 170 SHOPS, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO

HARBOUR

COUTURE

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3 www.wheretraveler.com 27

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SHOPPING Zalando Outlet

C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes

The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com. Kurfürstendamm 216. Uhlandstraße. C4

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and

PING SPE P C HO

THE SHOPAHOLIC

THE BARGAIN HUNTER

THE DESIGN GURU

On Sundays, the Mauerpark flea market teems with bargain hunters. The small design and vintage shops on the adjoining Oderberger Straße, meanwhile, are open every other day of the week. U Eberswalder Straße

Numerous labels cluster around Hackescher Markt. Around nearby Mulackstraße is where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers. S Hackescher Markt

Flanked by a towering department store, shopping mall, and multi-storey electronics store, Alexanderplatz attracts masses of shoppers with its big labels and chains. S+U Alexanderplatz

WHERE TO SHOP.

With a total of four shopping malls, including the recently opened Boulevard Berlin, one of the largest urban malls in the country, this street in the city’s southwest is a haven for shopping fans. U Schloßstraße

THE BROWSER Bergmannstraße is made for browsing, with plentiful fashion, home, and lifestyle shops interspersed with cafés for taking a break. Visit Marheinekeplatz market hall for gourmet gift ideas. U Mehringdamm

THE LUXURY SHOPPER

THE INDIVIDUAL

This Kastanienallee artery leading from Mitte into Prenzlauer Berg is lined with small, independent shops where you’ll discover home décor, design objects, unique souvenirs, and pieces from small fashion labels. U Rosenthaler Platz

Tell us who you are, we'll tell you

THE ACTIVE SHOPPER

Michael Kors

Pikolinos

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten.

fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

THE MULTI – TASKER Combine sightseeing with premium shopping along Friedrichstraße. Luxury department stores and malls such as Galeries Lafayette and Mall of Berlin rub elbows with high-end boutiques and key sites like the Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, and Checkpoint Charlie. S+U Friedrichstraße

Presided over by the venerable KaDeWe department store, Kurfürstendamm and Tauentzienstraße have long been one of Berlin’s major luxury shopping strips. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz

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Dress by Talbot Runhof (p. 27), shoes by Unützer (p. 28).

www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience.www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones.

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www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor

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spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160. S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR Depot What began over 60 years ago as a Christmas decorations shop has developed into a trendsetting provider of gifts, furnishings, and decorative items. Depot has four collections per year and is known for its versatility. www.depot-online.com. Kurfürstendamm 231 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88701924. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SHOPPING www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Stilwerk

Markthalle Neun

Five levels and 52 stores of the most refined interior design producers. Classic to avant-garde items from renowned international manufacturers, such as Bang & Olufsen, Stokke, and Alessi. www.stilwerk.de. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42–43. T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

FOOD & GOURMET Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate. As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Mampe Spirituosen The famous Berlin-based liquor company has a new home in the Bergmannkiez. Browse the shelves of the shop for great bottles to bring home. shop.mampe. berlin. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6. T: 030. 208484470. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E3

ELECTRONICS From the master atelier of Juwelier Leicht, the flexible "Jolly" bracelets come in numerous variations. Available at Juwelier Leicht in the Hotel Adlon. From €3200

Pure Chocolate Heaven

Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ADVERTORIAL

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030 757880. www.rausch.de

©ISTOCK

Occupying an entire corner of Mitte's grandiose Gendarmenmarkt is a piece of chocolate paradise. The Rausch Schokoladenhaus, no less than the largest chocolate emporium in the world, features three floors and 1500 sq. m. of unadulterated indulgence that will surely make a chocoholic out of anyone. The extensive offerings of the ground-floor shop include the world’s longest praline counter, with more than 200 praline types to choose from. Marvel at the towering masterpieces created out of pure chocolate, like the Brandenburg Gate, TV Tower, and the Berlin Bears, before heading upstairs to an audiovisual exhibition exploring the journey of Rausch's fine cocoa. Then take a seat at the Chocolate Cafe, serving a delectable selection of exquisite tortes and desserts from Rausch's own patisserie (plus a great view over Gendarmenmarkt). Since 1918, the Rausch vision has been to spread joy and pleasure through the most exceptional chocolates – taste the dedication with every bite.

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ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz

GORM ANNS T

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

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ROS Wolfen Germany Boutique ASSE STSTR AUGU Greta & Luis Ka tje sC afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Be Lieb -Oh SOP n S es r HIE k h i n e NST RAS rman d SE

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MÜ Scotch & Soda NZ STR Ad ASS i da As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s ka yk KS ek Bu ni or d a designer depot n y UN ffaloa Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store Oakley Michael Kors MCM

Promobo MÜHLE Store Berlin Home on earth Trippen

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com SHOP STOP

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R. UHLANDSTR.

Marooush LIETZENBURG

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 030 28045275 www.boots-and-shoes.de S Hackescher Markt HIGHLIGHT

JOACHIMSTHALER STR.

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Uhlandstraße Papeterie Caran D‘ache Catherine Nail Salon

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Belle Rebelle

Niessing Berlin

STR. Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROOKS & ROCKS

FiNNs Mode

Lalic GOBI

Zoologisch er Garten

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NIEBUHRSTR. Meyer & Nehls

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RD Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

Planet Berlin Beatrice von Tresckow

BOOTS & SHOES

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An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt www.wheretraveler.com 31

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ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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SHOP STOP

BOOTS & SHOES

PARFUMSALON

SENNHEISER STORE

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West. Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home. Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2018

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FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

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Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Französische Straße

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COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR

BOSS Maurice Lacroix

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Gucci Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara

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Gendarmenmarkt

The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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Lifesmyle

FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

INTIMISSIMI

MAX & CO.

S & D sons and

TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY JEANS

Esprit

JD Sports

Eterna Fashion & Accessories

FASHION CLUB

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Diamond

Change

Kingz

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Foot Locker

LIEBESKIND

French Connection Frisco Jeans

Lief!

TWIN-SET

Schiesser

UN1DEUX2TROIS3

Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Levi’s

Fossil

Triumph

Sarar

Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL

Konplott

Fast Forward

Trigema

Salamander

NAVYBOOT

KARL LAGERFELD

FALKE

7 FOR ALL

Muji

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

ZARA

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

GUESS

Look 54

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

BREE

Codello

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

POTS

LEIPZIGER STRASSE

Potsdamer Platz

CinemaxX

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LMST

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Mohrenstr.

Dalí Museum

BUNDESRAT

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Blue Man Group Theater

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ©ISTOCK

ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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Knock, Knock, Anyone Home? Having seen all the big sites, private homes were next on Annabelle Mallia's itinerary. To really understand the culture of a city, you need to get to know the locals and find out how they actually live. There are several tours and museums in Berlin that give you the opportunity to do just that. Agency for real-life tourism opendoorsberlin (www.opendoors.de) is all about promoting intercultural exchanges. They provide you with three addresses to ordinary residents' homes, which you can visit over the day as if you were popping in to see friends. Ask your hosts questions about living in Berlin, take a look around typical Berlin-style apartments, and discover areas of the city that aren’t usually on the tourist trail. Whether it’s just a quick visit or a long chat over dinner, this is for you to decide. If you’re after more of an insight into the hip city scene, Berlinagenten (www.berlinagenten.

com) offers guided tours to the homes of more creative Berliners. Over four hours you will visit three locals who reflect the lively spirit of their neighborhood, from a quirky artist’s domicile in Kreuzberg to a photographer’s grandiose apartment on Karl-Marx-Allee. Who exactly you will get to meet depends on the day and who’s at home, but a warm welcome is guaranteed. To step back in time, visit PlattenbauMuseumswohnung (Hellersdorfer Str. 179, open Sundays 2-4pm), a former East Berlin apartmentturned-museum. It was one of many prefabricated flats erected in the late 1970s in answer to the East German housing crisis. Even though the rest of the building has been renovated, this 61-square-meter three-room flat preserves the housing culture of the GDR, from the RFT Rafena color TV to the floral apron and

photographic slides. For more glimpses into private homes, the Pankow Museum at Dunckerstr. 77 shows a typical furnished apartment from 1900, whereas the Heynstr. 8 location houses a permanent exhibition of the Heyn family and of bourgeois living of the 1800s. The Mies van der Rohe-Haus (Oberseestr. 60, www.miesvanderrohehaus.de) in Berlin was the last assignment of this famous architect before he emigrated to the US in 1933, and is now open to the public as an architectural monument and exhibition space. And you can also visit the “luxury” social housing complex of Le Corbusier situated near Olympiastadion. Referred to as Corbusierhaus (www.corbusierhaus-berlin.org), it was inspired by an ocean liner and by the idea of building vertically, which makes it the biggest building in Berlin with just one entrance.

URBAN LIVING TOUR BERLINAGENTEN: COURTESY OF BERLINAGENTEN; MUSEUMSWOHNUNG: COURTESY OF MUSEUMSWOHNUNG. , STADT UND LAND.

An artist's apartment on Berlinagenten's "Urban Living" tour; Below: two of the rooms in the Plattenbau-Museumswohnung.

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MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grace in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman

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Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural www.wheretraveler.com 37

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Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Hot Potato, Hot Potato

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Checkpoint Charlie

HISTORIC SITES

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

©ISTOCK

Asisi’s Wall Panorama

Berlin

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

Spuds have to be one of the most versatile vegetables available. This month offers ample opportunity to dig up your own at Domäne Dahlem, a public farm just 20 minutes by U-Bahn from the city center. The farm, which is dedicated to teaching us the link between pastures and the supermarket shelf, will be hosting their annual two-day potato festival on 15 and 16 September, so join the merriment and go reap potatoes straight from the field to then roast them directly over the fire or take them home for later consumption. In addition, there will be plenty of live music and entertainment, potato-themed activities, and country-delicious food, as well as the usual assortment of craft stalls, tractor rides, and farm animals. The young and old can get a head start on harvesting the week before at Domäne Dahlem’s monthly Sunday workshop. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. www.domaene-dahlem.de

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carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors

adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

To see what the Berlin Wall really looked like, visit the last remaining untouched stretch at Bernauer Straße.

MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). Under-14s must be accompanied by

Let‘s go up!

Karls-Erlebnisdorf

What began as a family-run strawberry farm has blossomed into an amusement park empire. With seven locations, including one just west of Berlin city limits, Karls Erlebnisdorf offers year-round fun for the whole family. Sample the famous Karl's strawberries and all sorts of berry treats, take a ride down the roller coaster or giant potato sack slide, and have all sorts of memorable adventures. Open daily 8am–7pm. Price per activity varies. www.karls.de. Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 038.2024050. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). Discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

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SIGHTSEEING Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. Discounts when booking online. Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr. Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours)

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

CooLTourings Segway Tours

Schiffskontor

Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 0179.3585390.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel

Here you can rent a charter boat for that special occasion in various styles from bygone eras. Tours include along the River Spree to the historical city center or further east to the canals of Neu-Venedig. www.schiffskontor.de. Am Speicher 7. T: 030 246479960. S Rummelsburg.

Spreeboote This boat rental company offers pedal boats, motorboats, and electric boats. Many are licensefree, however, a skipper can be booked upon request, as well as a selection of picnic, barbecue, and beverage boxes. www.spreeboote.de. Zur alten Flussbadeanstalt 5.S Rummelsburg.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a

A Glimpse Of Holland In Potsdam, not far from the beautiful Sanssouci grounds, is a series of four blocks lined with tall, red-bricked houses. Known as the Dutch Quarter, the 134 houses were built in the first half of the 18th century to attract Dutch craftsmen, artisans, and their families to move to Prussia and to feel more at home. Miraculously, the houses survived the two world wars, but they fell into severe disrepair during the East German regime. After reunification, the Dutch Quarter was magnificently restored, the windows given a fresh coat of white paint. Today, the area is part of the historic center of Potsdam, home to museums, galleries, and Dutch festivals throughout the year.

Berlinagenten

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POSITIONS ART FAIR © OANA POPA; MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, LEE BUL, MAJESTIC SPLENDOR, COURTESY OF ART WEEK; MARTIN GROPIS BAU, LEE BUL, VIA NEGATIVA; ME COLLECTORS ROOM, ES VAN DER ELSKEN, PARIJS, PIERRE ET PILETTE; ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF BERLIN ART WEEK.

THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Clockwise from above left: the Positions art fair; Lee Bul's Majestic Splendor; Pierre et Pilette by Ed van der Elsken; Lee Bul's Via Negativa.

Art Is All Around When Berlin goes all out for art this month, Serene Tseng is there to take it all in. Attention fans of contemporary art: Pencil Berlin Art Week into your calendars! Established in 2012, the annual art festival features exhibition openings, art fairs, and award ceremonies. The most important events this year are the two art fairs held at Flughafen Tempelhof, art berlin and Positions Berlin Art Fair, where you will find dozens of exhibitions organized by the city's art galleries. Elsewhere, public exhibition spaces in the city will open their doors for art and installations: for example, the U5 line at Alexanderplatz will be showcasing a poster exhibition, while the Jewish Museum will host res·o·nant, an audio-visual event, both inside and outside the museum. With a heavier focus on photography than

usual, the 2018 Art Week kicks off with 10-plus new exhibition openings. Some highlights include The Moment is Eternity at me Collectors Room (26 Sep), which explores how photography captures the transience of time; Agnieszka Polska: The Demon’s Brain at Hamburger Bahnhof (27 Sep), an immersive, alluring, and unsettling journey to 15thcentury Poland and an early example of capitalism in a feudal society; and the work of 2018 GASAG Art Prize winner, Julian Charrière. Other exhibitions include As We Used to Float at Berlinische Galerie (27 Sep), a multimedia installation exploring the Pacific and the effects of nuclear weaponry on the ocean; Back to the Future at C/O Berlin (28 Sep), which revisits contemporary

photography by using 19th-century techniques from the discipline’s infancy; and Lee Bul: Crash at Martin-Gropius-Bau (29 Sep), a multi-dimensional installation exploring the political and economic evolution of South Korea. The Art Week will also be featuring some important reopenings: On 26 September, head to Haus am Waldsee to visit its newly renovated spaces, or check out the new location of the Deutsche Bank KunstHalle, opening on 27 September at the Prinzessinnenpalais with The World on Paper, featuring 300 paper and photography works from the Deutsche Bank Collection. 26-30 September 2018. www.berlinartweek.de. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 18 Nov: Between Art & Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. To 7 Oct: Artist Complex. Photographic Portraits from Baselitz to Warhol. Works from photographer Angelika Platen. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Where Do We Come From? A key to understanding the Germany we know today is to take a look at the ancient artifacts unearthed many centuries after the first Europeans settled here. What did the earliest days of Europe and Germany look like? How did neighboring countries shape what became Germany, and how did German culture come to be? Migration, conflict, trade, religion, and innovation all had an impact on early German cultural formation. Restless Times. Archaeology in Germany, showing at MartinGropius-Bau (p. 43) starting 21 September, explores the intricacies of cultures in Europe throughout time with artifacts unearthed from every German state.

A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Oct: Jablonec 68 The East-West-Jewelry-Summit. Celebrating the past 50 years of jewelry history and artisans kickstarted by the Prague Spring. To 3 Oct: Grapus - A French Collective of Graphic Designers. Following the world and legacy of French graphic design of the past 50 years. www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Alte Nationalgalerie

DDR Museum

Altes Museum

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 16 Sep: Wanderlust. From Caspar David Friedrich to Auguste Renoir. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 13 Sep: Revealed By The Reverse. The Hidden History of a Painting by Adolph Menzel. Tracing the origins and journeys of the works in the museum’s permanent collection. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of Orientation Along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb. de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa. eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

HIMMELSCHEIBE VON NEBRABRONZE UND GOLD, CA. 1600 V. CHR.© LANDESAMT FÜR DENKMALPFLEGE UND ARCHÄOLOGIE SACHSEN-ANHALT, FOTO: JURAJ LIPTÁK; BRONZEZEITLICHE SCHLACHT IM TOLLENSETAL PFEILSPITZEN, BRONZE, 13. JH. V. CHR.© LANDESAMT FÜR KULTUR UND DENKMALPFLEGE MECKLENBURG-VORPOMMERN; ACHT GÖTTERBÜSTENAPOLLO, SCHILDPATT, 2. JH. N. CHR.© LVR-LANDESMUSEUM BONN, FOTO: JÜRGEN VOGEL.

MUSEUMS

Museum of Musical Instruments

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Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Photographs by Ergun Çagatay. Photographic documents of the German Reunification through the lens of Berlin's Turkish population. Free admission until 9 June. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)

Martin-Gropius-Bau

One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. . To 6 Nov: Radical - Lesbian - Feminist. Following the history of the activist group, the Lesbisches Aktionszentrum, active from 1972-1982. To 8 Nov: Our Own FeminismS - A Queer-Feminist Futurelab. A lecture series exploring a future feminist utopia. To 31 Dec: Year of the Women*. Twelve months of programs, exhibitions, lectures, and transformation. To 5 Jan: 12 Moons. A yearlong program featuring films by feminist filmmakers and video artists. To 31 Jan: Spirits. The museum's café transforms into an interactive exhibition space for sharing. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To Spring 2019: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 14 Sep: Gurlitt: Status Report. Examining the troubled history of works from Cornelius Gurlitt's collection. From 21 Sep: Restless Times. Archaeology in Germany. Connecting the earliest cultural interactions within Europe with Germany. From 29 Sep: Lee Bul: Crash. The historical and political evolution of South Korea told through the lens of art. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her year-long residency explores states between documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www. gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Mendelssohn Exhibit A Jewish Enlightenment philosopher, a worldrenowned composer, and generations of bankers made the history of the influential Mendelssohn family, whose members were persecuted as Jews despite having converted to Christianity. Daily noon–6pm. € free. www.mendelssohngesellschaft.de. Jägerstr. 51. T: 030.81704726. U Französische Straße. E3

Menschen Museum

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 wholebody preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Visit the Märkisches Panoramaplatz 1. Museum for an overview S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor of the city's 750 years and the tragedy of war. Featuring of history. Museum Barberini Potsdam works from Kollwitz’s most intensive Located in a reconstructed palace and emotionally-charged years. Daily in the historic center of Potsdam, this 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. museum houses the collection of founder and Fasanenstr. 24. patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4 Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism. With the Barberini App you can Kupferstichkabinett choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am– MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the 7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free). Great Elector and works dating back to medieval Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. times, the institute known in English as the T: 0331 236014499. Off Map Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, Museum Berggruen and Goya. To 18 Nov: From Rembrandt's Workshop. MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Drawings from the Rembrandt School. Exploring Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg the times when the works of the Dutch master museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with were confused with those of his students. Tue–Fri his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb. works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, museum. Matthäikirchplatz. Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. T: 030.266424242. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Märkisches Museum

Museum of Photography

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 14 Sep: BIZIM BERLIN 89/90.

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909

Immerse yourself in the monumental panorama and experience the everyday life in the 1980s in Berlin ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstr. 205, 10117 Berlin service@die-mauer.de, U-Bhf. Kochstraße asisi.de, die-mauer.de/en

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR CHECKPOINT CHARLIE Friedrichstraße 47 / corner of Zimmerstraße 10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.blackbox-kalter-krieg.de

FOTO: JÜRGEN VOGEL.

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum

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of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. This museum is a tribute to him and his family. Films, photographs, and even comic books tell us about his visit to Berlin, his assassination, and his children. Open Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of

artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged The German Spy Museum during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, Delve into the world of espionage with two the museum reopened in 2009. To 7 Oct: floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan. include presentations on James Bond and other Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that first time outside of Turkmenistan. To Sep 2019: tests your agility to break into – or out The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of of – compromising locations. €12/8. European History. Featuring gold jewelry Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesfrom the Migration Period found near spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm Platz 9. (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– S+U Potsdamer Platz E3 The Allied Museum in 6pm. €12/6. Zehlendorf traces Stasi Museum www.neues-museum.de. the history of the The GDR’s Ministry of State Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. Allied presence Security, the Stasi, has been in Berlin. S+U Friedrichstraße, described as one of the most S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore Pergamon Museum the agency’s headquarters and learn about One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thwatering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri century archeology excavations. The imposing 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an T: 030.5536854.U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map Assyrian world. To 14 Oct: Buildings that Fill My Eye: The Architectural Heritage of Yemen. Sharing the richness and splendor of Yemeni architecture and geography. Altar room closed for restoration Berlinische Galerie through 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 15 Oct: T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

ART GALLERIES

GIORGIO SOMMER, MOUNT VESUVIUS 1872, PHOTO GALERIE BASSENGE BERLIN

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

When Forever Is Real What is time when matched with the camera? Timeless and transient, the camera captures moments to be frozen in eternity, and without photography, the fleeting moment may never return. The Moment is Eternity, showing at the me Collectors Room (p. 46), draws inspiration from a famous quote by Goethe to explore beauty, sensuality, growth, and the passage of time on life, the body, and society. With works by artists such as Albrecht Dürer and Cindy Sherman and exhibits such as early x-rays, the exhibition shows how important themes persist, thanks to art, despite the passing of time. From 26 September.

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Loredana Nemes. Photographs 2008-2017. Exploring themes of barely-suppressed energy, on the brink of change. From 27 Sep: Julian Charrière. As We Used To Float. GASAG Art Prize 2018 recipient's multimedia installation on nuclear testing In the Pacific. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

The Network

People, Cables, Data Streams

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. The gallery, formerly known as the Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle, is relocating to the Prinzessinnenpalais and will reopen on 27 September 2018. www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. From 19 Sep: Back To The Future. The 19th Century in the 21st Century. Exploring the earliest photography techniques in the new millennium. To 23 Sep: Wim Wenders. Instant Stories. Over 200 of Wenders's polaroid shots. To 23 Sep: The Polaroid Project. Dedicated to the influential and unique instant camera. To 23 Sep: C/O Berlin Talent Award. Stefanie Moshammer. not just your face honey. The first winner of the talent award presents her work exploring reality, fiction, and truth in photographic images. From 29 Sep: Nicholas Nixon. Life Work. Capturing the Intimate passing of time and the experiences of being human. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

An exhibition about the networked world For explorers!

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Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 11 Nov: Images from the Thirty Year War. Woodcuts from the Kupferstichkabinett showing the fates of those affected by the devastating war. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. From 19 Sep: Delicate Men in Modern Sculpture. Exploring www.wheretraveler.com 45

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 27 Sep: Agnieszka Polska: The Demon's Brain. A sound and video installation of 15th century Poland. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts,

and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. From 27 Sep: Karin Sander – A Retrospective. A specially designed installation to celebrate the re-opening of the Haus am Waldsee. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 18 Nov: Between Art and Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” From 26 Sep: The Moment is Eternity – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

From 20 September, the Kunstbibliothek (www.smb.museum) will be celebrating its 150th birthday with The ABC of Travel, featuring works of architecture, book art, photography, and fashion illustration, all exploring the theme of travel and wandering throughout the centuries.

MAX BRANDSTRUPHAMBURG-AMERIKA LINIE, UM 1900PLAKAT, LITHOGRAFIE, 105,5 X 72 CM© STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK / ANNA RUSS; ALBERT KNABRIVIERA DIENST. HAMBURG-AMERIKA LINIE ZWISCHEN GENUA UND NIZZA, 1914, PLAKAT, LITHOGRAFIE, 98,4 X 73,5 CM© STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK / DIETMAR KATZ; RICO PUHLMANNFRAU IN ABENDENSEMBLE MIT PLUDERHOSE VON ULI RICHTER VOR PAN AM FLUGZEUG, 1966 SILBERGELATINEPAPIER, 23,5 X 24,3 CM© STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK / FOTO RICO PUHLMANN

the differing depictions of men and shifts in masculinity ideals. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

BERLIN WEEKEND Only have a weekend to visit this fabulous city? Make the most of it with our quick guide! DAY ONE

rt ve r l ä n g e 0 1 8 .2 bis 28.10

AM - Start off with a free walking tour (www. originalberlintours.com), covering the city’s main attractions and history. For a nearby lunch, Berlin’s oldest quarter Nikolaiviertel has many traditional dining options or the restaurant atop the TV Tower on Alexanderplatz has great city views. PM - Spend the second half of the day discovering Berlin's artistic side at Museum Island, a UNESCO world heritage site and home to the mythical Nefertiti bust and Pergamon Altar. For a taste of Berlin's large Turkish community, head to Kreuzberg for dinner. Then end on a high note with a performance at the Berlin Philharmonic.

DAY TWO PM – Head west and walk along luxury shopping strip Ku'damm or through the royal gardens at the Charlottenburg Palace. When hunger strikes, Savignyplatz, former stomping ground of Berlin’s intellectual bohemians, has many restaurants from which to choose.

A world of exhibitions

AM – Now head east and walk along the East Side Gallery, the largest remaining strip of the Berlin Wall turned into an open-air art gallery. For dinner, make your way to Kollwitzplatz in the hip Prenzlauer Berg district surrounded by lovely cafés and restaurants. Afterwards, dance the night away to techno beats at the legendary Berghain.

©ISTOCK

ON A LONG WEEKEND...

Berlin

Got a bit more time? Venture into Grunewald forest and visit green Berlin and its many lakes. A loop around Krumme Lanke is a pleasant one-hour walk, followed by something to eat and drink at Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee (Fischerhüttenstr. 136) restaurant overlooking the adjoining lake.

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from above: The interior of Arai Berlin; Shiori Arai; clear dashi broth with salmon, tofu, and vegetables at Shiori; mixed appetizers at Arai.

Leave It To The Chef

ARAI AND SHIORI: ALL PHOTOS © SASHA KHARCHENKO.

For an unforgettable dining experience, put yourself in the hands of the chef, Hilda Hoy says. There are many things in our lives we leave up to the experts. We let stylists decide how our hair should be cut, give accountants and financial planners authority over our hard-earned money, and trust doctors to know best what our bodies need. Likewise, the Japanese style of omakase dining is rooted in a wholly reasonable question: Why not let the chef decide what you should eat for dinner? Arai (Straßburger Str. 60, www.araiberlin. com), the newest opening from Japanese chef and restaurateur Shiori Arai, is an outstanding omakase addition to Berlin’s dining scene. The small, intimate space offers just one seating per night in a spare, peaceful, Zen-styled space off Mitte’s Torstraße that accommodates only 10 diners, making every meal an intimate and exclusive gathering (and reservations a must). Guests are invited to remove their shoes before taking a seat at the sunken redwood table that is the room’s centerpiece. The chef’s 10-course menu is

shaped by seasonality but always rooted in Japan’s Chuka Ryori cuisine, a unique style that resulted from Japanese chefs adapting traditional Chinese dishes with their local ingredients and tastes. A splendid evening at Arai typically opens with an assortment of cold bites like sake-marinated surf clam or delicately crunchy jellyfish shreds in a brightly citrussy yuzu dressing, followed by a succession of courses like tempura oyster served with Sichuan pepper for dipping, king crab and scallop pottage, or sticky chili-sautéed shrimp, perfectly complemented by the selection of specially imported sakes. Japanese-style hospitality – genuine, meticulous, and open-hearted – is on full display at every stage, just another feature that makes Arai a special standout on Berlin’s restaurant landscape. Just a few streets away is Arai’s older sibling Shiori (Max-Beer-Str. 13, www.shioriberlin. com), another omakase-style restaurant from

the same owner. Though the two restaurants share many similarities – beautiful design, one seating per night, impressive culinary artistry, and select sake – Shiori focuses squarely on traditional Japanese cuisine. Owner Shiori Arai also steps into the role of chef here, with the seats arranged around the open kitchen to let guests watch the master at work. The evening unfolds with a succession of pristine, minimalist dishes, such as seasonal sashimi, steamed egg custard with shaved truffles, and lobster dumpling in dashi kelp broth. Each course, right down to the plating and tableware, is perfectly executed in minimal elegance, elevating the meal to an art form. Just goes to show that when the chef is this good, it’s best to let him make all the decisions. www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the

Ready, Set, Eat! Foodies, prepare to take a big bite out of Berlin Food Week. The annual culinary smorgasbord, held this month from 17–23 September, features workshops, tastings, exhibitions, special dinners, and much more, with the aim of advancing Berlin’s status as a world-class culinary city. The central venue, dubbed the “House of Food,” is Charlottenburg's Bikini Berlin concept mall, where visitors can discover a variety of local and international food exhibitors on 21 and 22 September, take part in culinary workshops, and feast on freshly prepared delicacies. And don’t miss out on the Stadtmenü program, for which more than 50 Berlin restaurants across the city – including Jolesch and Cecconi’s – will be offering special prix-fixe menus inspired by this year’s partner country, the United States. www.berlinfoodweek.de

COURTESY OF BERLIN FOOD WEEK

The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

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an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style

Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

OktoberfestTime! 14th September – 7 th October Enjoy original bavarian food and drinks like pork knuckle and Oktoberfestbeer.

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximiliansberlin.de

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly www.wheretraveler.com 51

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DINING specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Le Faubourg

a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Paris Bar

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN

Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing

AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt

the famed Ku’damm features modern art and

Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Those who care about the provenance of the meat they eat need remember just one name: Kumpel & Keule Speisewirtschaft. The two co-founders of this Kreuzberg butchery and restaurant are dedicated to the highest standards for what they sell and serve, cultivating a personal relationship with each of the farmers and hunters from whom the premium, free-range meats are sourced. The pork, for example, comes from pigs who roam freely through the Swabian forest to graze on acorns, and the wild game comes straight from a hunter in the Brandenburg region east of Berlin. The Speisewirtschaft’s menu covers the spectrum of delicious carnivorous delights, from delicate sweetbreads, sticky BBQ ribs, fall-apart-tender braised ox cheeks, and a fantastic rendition of steak tartare to classics like burgers and steak. Passionate home cooks can also swing by the Kumpel & Keule butcher stand in nearby Markthalle Neun to pick up delicacies like dry-aged steaks, fresh sausages, and more. Skalitzer Str. 97. www.kumpelundkeule.de/speisewirtschaft

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on

Beef Of The Highest Order

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DINING tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D.www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

Paris-Moskau French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and

lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences.

€€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Renger-Patzsch

and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, Schneeweiss the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple German/Austrian. With a crisply white and elegant as is its menu of refined interior reminiscent of snow-capped German-Austrian cuisine. Meat Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves dishes are a specialty, as are the classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin Berliner Weisse is a pale Traditional dishes like schnitzel dough baked with topping combos ale brewed only in the and goulash with Serviettenknödel like apple and blood sausage. €€. capital and usually dumplings share the menu with Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. served with a shot of rotating seasonal offerings. €€. syrup. Wartburgstr. 54. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5 schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. Restaurantschiff Capt'n Schillow S+U Warschauer Straße. H3 German. Climb aboard this quaint boat restaurant at the western edge of Tiergarten to enjoy classic German fish delicacies like cured herring, grilled pike Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, perch fillets, and North Sea shrimp, plus a relaxing post-industrial interior remind diners that the space brunch menu on weekends. Book in advance to was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss take a chartered cruise through the surrounding has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the waterways. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet Closed Mon–Tue Oct–Dec. www.capt-schillow.de. exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Str. des 17. Juni 113, next to Charlottenburger Tor. Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.31505015. S Tiergarten. C3 T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Rotisserie Weingrün

German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly,

Walid German. Contemporary, pared-down, and topquality renditions of classic German dishes, from schnitzel to asparagus soup to Könisberger Klopse meatballs. The compact menu changes seasonally

THE GRAND TERRACE OPEN DAILY

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 Hirtenstr. 4 | 10178 Berlin | www.the-grand-berlin.com

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to take advantage of the best produce available from the region. €€. Tue–Sat D. www.walid-speisemeisterei.de. Wichertstr. 55. T: 030.40045755. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

Zeit für Brot German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot—“Time for Bread”—is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €. Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780. U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

ITALIAN Barist

Restaurant Z

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20. T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Mama Trattoria

©ISTOCK

dsItalian. Healthful Italian food made with the best

Berlin

Italian ingredients and, whenever possible, with local produce. Many of the ingredients used, such as the beef and the pastas, are organic, and gluten-free options are available too. Order a pizza and salad, or just stop by for one of their delicious desserts. €/ €€. www.mama.eu. Pariser Platz 6a. T: 030.467260981. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal

Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

OTHER Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

beef 45 American. A minimalist interior and small menu

of starters and meat mains define this great restaurant inside the Palace Hotel. All ingredients are fresh and of the highest quality, and the chef focuses entirely on meat cooked with the sousvide method, for incomparable taste and tender texture. Good selection of craft beers. €€/€€€. Open daily. www.beef-45.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021045. S+U Zoologischer Garten. F2

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Rio Grande International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. MayAyim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. U Schlesisches Tor.

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Z Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836. U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

The Mahler Chamber Orchestra; below: Isabelle Faust.

The New Classical Season

MAHLER CHAMBER ORCHESTRA © MANU AGAH; ISABELLE FAUST: © FELIX BROEDE.

Solveig Steinhardt spoke to violinist Isabelle Faust, one of the great performers of this year's Musikfest. How would you characterize Berlin's music scene? In terms of classical music, Berlin is one of the most exciting cities I know. It has numerous excellent opera houses and symphonic orchestras, smaller ensembles such as the Akademie für Alte Musik or Kaleidoskop, and countless chamber music groups. All of this gives the city a rich, interesting, and varied musical life. Over the past 20 years, many of my colleagues and musician friends have moved to Berlin and I am astonished to see that there are still any musicians left living in other places! For this year's Musikfest you will be playing Schoenberg's Transfigured Night (12 Sep) with the Mahler Chamber Orchestra. This is a very intense piece and one of the composer's most performed works. What makes it so powerful? This piece is one of Schoenberg's earliest works. He wrote it in 1899, still in a highly romantic style, based on a poem by Dehmel. At the premiere it was not necessarily embraced by the public, but today the listener seems to be especially attracted by the

particular colors and dramatic writing, evolving from Liszt and Brahms. The main idea of the poem gives this piece a through line to follow, and the pictures described are clearly distinguishable. To most audiences, the early Schoenberg feels like an entirely different composer compared to the later one, although he himself once said that his way of composing never really changed, but only got better and more concentrated. Who was your biggest inspiration for becoming a musician? Probably J.S. Bach. What's the hardest part about being a musician and what's the best? The best part is that you spend your life with music, the hardest is probably the physical strain due to constant traveling.

What do you love about Berlin, and what is your favorite neighborhood? I love my Kiez in Charlottenburg, it's very cozy and quiet. In no time I can get to the Grunewald forest and yet it's extremely central. I love how much space there is in Berlin, lots of air and green spaces, huge sidewalks to sit on and drink coffee. I love that there are so many different kinds of theaters, small and big, and pubs, jazz places, and of course museums. I adore the Botanical Garden, and the lakes! I love that Berlin never stops surprising you, and that it is endless in its possibilities to reinvent itself. I just hope that this city will manage to keep its free artistic spirits despite the current political problems. www.wheretraveler.com 55 www.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 6, 7, 9, 10 Sep: Romeo et Juliette (Berlioz). 8, 12, 14 Sep: Nabucco (Verdi). 13, 21, 27 Sep: La Traviata (Verdi). 22 Sep: : Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 23, 29 Sep: Tristan und Isolde (Wagner). 30 Sep: Tosca (Puccini). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 8, 23, 28 Sep: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 15, 21 Sep: Anatevka (Bock). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrenstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 16, 23, 29 Sep: Die Frau ohne Schatten (Strauss). 21 Sep: Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 22, 28, 30 Sep: Der Freischutz (Carl Maria von Webern). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 15, 19, 28 Sep: Swan Lake (Tchaikovski). www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 2 Sep: Nicola Altstaedt (cello) plays Bach’s Six cello Suites. 9 Sep: Pianist Florent Boffard plays Scarlatti, Chopin, Debussy, and more. 13 and 17 Sep: Pierre-Laurent Aimard plays Stockhausen. 30 Sep: Pianist Daniil Trifonov plays Bach, Stravinsky, Schnittke. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 11 Sep: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Philippe Herreweghe) performs Dvorak. 15, 16 Sep: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Riccardo Minasi) with Golda Schutz perform Haydn, Beethoven, Mozart.

20 Sep: Pianist Andras Schiff, recital. 21-23 Sep: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Valcuha) performs Beethoven and others. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 1 Sep: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim) plays Boulez and Stravisnky. 2 Sep: The Rotterdam Phiharmonic Orchestra (cond. Nezet- Seguin) performs Bruckner. 3 Sep: Ensemble Modern (cond. Enno Poppe), music by Webern and Spahlinger. 4 Sep: The Royal concertgebouw Orchestra Amsterdam (cond. Gatti) plays works by Webern and Berg. 5 Sep: The Orchester der Deutschen Oper (cond. Runnicles) performs Wagner and more. 6 Sep: The Boston Symphony Orchestra (cond. Nelsons) plays Mahler’s 3rd Symphony. 7 Sep: The Münchner Philharmoniker (cond. Gergiev) performs Zimmermann and Bruckner. 8, 9 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Benjamin) plays Boulez, Ravel, Ligeti, and more. 11 Sep: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Herreweghe) plays Dvorak’s Requiem. 13–15 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Roth) plays Stravisky, Zimmermann, Debussy, Ligeti. 21–23 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Harding) plays Bruckner. 21–23 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Bychkov) and the Labeque sisters (pianos) play Bruch and Dvorak. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10;

ON THIS MONTH ROCK, POP, JAZZ ROGER HODGSON 8 Sep, Tempodrom

TASCHENLAMPENKONZERT 22 Sep, Waldbühne

U2 1 Sep, Mercedes-Benz Arena

The Weeknd, performing at Lollapalooza.

BALLET & CLASSICAL THE LABEQUE SISTERS 21-23 Sep, Philharmonie

DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE 8, 23, 28 Sep, Komische Oper

ANDRAS SCHIFF 20 Sep, Konzerthaus

THEATER & MUSICALS ANATEVKA 15, 21 Sep, Komische Oper

BLUE MAN GROUP All month, Bluemax Theater

VIVID, GRAND SHOW From 27 Sep, Friedrichstadt-Palast

CIRCA'S PEEPSHOW All month, Chamäleon Theater

CABARET To 23 Sep, Tipi am Kanzleramt

THE WEEKND, COURTESY OF LOLLAPALOOZA.

BALLET & OPERA

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Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.

THE MUSICAL

July 20 to September 23 www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de Suitable for international guests www.wheretraveler.com 57

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ENTERTAINMENT www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei

Lights... Camera... Berlin! A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 8 Sep: Supertramp's Roger Hodgson in concert. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. During his Berlin stay in Schönhauser Allee 36. 1970, David Bowie shared T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder his Hauptstraße 157 Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

apartment with Iggy Pop.

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 1 Sep: U2. www.mercedes-benz-arenaberlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

We Love Lollapalooza In 2015, Berlin became the first European location to host Lollapalooza, an incredible two-day music festival integrating different musical genres with food, art, street theater, sustainability and politics, craft booths, and even kids’ adventures. Founded in in 1991 in Chicago by Jane’s Addiction frontman Perry Farrell, the festival is a celebration of alternative culture that has since gone international, now also taking place in many South American locations as well as Paris and Stockholm. This year’s edition at Olympiastadion and Olympiapark features four stages, a Kidzapalooza section for families, and lots of fun activities you can take part in while enjoying great music by stars such as The Weeknd, Imagine Dragons, Kraftwerk 3D, and many more. 8–9 September. www.lollapaloozade.com

LOLLAPALOOZA BERLIN 2017, © LOLLAPALOOZA FLAD.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

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only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Circa's Peepshow. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. From 27 Sep: VIVID Grand Show. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

The evening is hosted by: Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

Kookaburra

Director: Rodrigue Funke

Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. With English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße. Off map.

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

22.08. – 11.11. 14.11. – 25.11. 28.11. – 09.12. 12.12. – 13.01. 16.01. – 20.01. 23.01. – 24.02.

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Berliner Festspiele

#musikfestbln

31.8.– 18.9. 2018

In cooperation with the Berliner Philharmoniker Foundation

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. To 23 Sep: Cabaret. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Staunen, Circus of Stars. www.wintergartenberlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Berliner Philharmoniker

Staatskapelle Berlin

Boston Symphony Orchestra

Rotterdam Philharmonic Orchestra

and many more orchestras, ensembles and soloists

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Shortcut To Bavaria Liter mugs of beer, Lederhosen, oompah music – to foreigners, these things must seem very German. The thing is, they’re not very Berliner. In fact those traditions belong more properly to Bavaria in the south, and especially to Munich. But hey, we understand: Oktoberfest is in the air, you want your fix of Maß and mustard pots, and your travel plan doesn’t necessarily include Munich. Thankfully, Berlin is a major cosmopolitan city in which all the world is represented – even Bavaria. Just north of Alexanderplatz is Hofbräuhaus (Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30), the local outpost of Munich’s most famous beer hall. Somewhat smaller than the original, it’s still the largest proper beer hall in the capital by a long stretch, and the furnishings are convincing. Sure, it’s touristy, but useful nevertheless – displaced Bavarian families know about its expansive Sunday brunch buffet (10am–3pm). Kids 10 and under eat free, then they dance to live oompah or head

for the play area. To complete the picture, there is a shop on site with traditional Trachten clothes – i.e., Lederhosen and Dirndl. For a more subdued experience – let’s say you want great Bavarian beer and traditional food, but could do without the oompah – we suggest Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt (Charlottenstr. 55). It’s popular at mealtimes but has beer and pretzels whenever you need a break. Bonus: The bar staff taps a large wooden barrel of Augustiner Edelstoff, poured via spigot, daily at 6pm. A block over from Gendarmenmarkt, Maximilians (Friedrichstr. 185-190) is another blue-and-white-checkered, Bavarian-themed restaurant, favoring beers from Paulaner. Meanwhile, Paulaner im Spreebogen (Alt-Moabit 98) is the Munich brewery’s Berlin tavern, complete with vaulted ceilings and wood paneling, and housed in a shopping complex near the Turmstraße U-Bahn station. One of the finest Bavarian breweries with a

Berlin presence is Weihenstephaner, whose pub is on Hackescher Markt (Neue Promenade 5). All the brewery’s products are available here, including the stronger bock beers, and traditional cooking. Its decor is classy and understated rather than garishly Bavarian. But there are also smaller places that offer experiences that are just as authentic (if not more so): For example, Weiss Blau (Knobelsdorffstr. 37) is a beer store and Bavarian-style delicatessen south of Charlottenburg Palace: Come for a crate of Bavarian beer; stay for typical Brotzeit. On the other side of town, in hip Friedrichshain, Friedrichs Wirtschaft (Niederbarnimstr. 16) is a cozy restaurant devoted to Bavaria’s Franconia region, famous for its smoked beers and other rustic lagers. Between the antlers and Apfelkuchen (apple cake), it can provide a comforting oasis amid the burger joints, trendy bars, and nightclubs of the neighborhood.

Our beer expert Joe Stange knows the best corners for Bavarian culture in Berlin.

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Schleusenkrug

Newton Bar

Prater

BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND

A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

Reingold

CASINOS

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4

Fragrances © ISTOCK

CLUB GUIDE

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the

Sip something tall and refreshing at Prenzlauer Berg's Bryk Bar (www. bryk-bar.com)

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

TRAFFIC CLUB A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Public Transport

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ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

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16/08/2018 09:30

WHERE NOW | MAYA SRIQUI

MAYA SRIQUI FOUNDER, GARDEN STATE CANDLES Whether you’re a sage, fig, verveine, or green tea & ginger kind of person, Maya has the goods to fill your home with beautiful scents. Her earthfriendly, made-in-Berlin candle creations are available online, at select retailers local and worldwide, and at the Garden State Candles store at Allerstr. 11 in Neukölln. www.gardenstatecandles.com

What brought you to Berlin nearly three years ago, and how did your candle business come about? My partner and I were charmed by the quality of life of the capital and its dynamism, so we thought, “Let’s give it a try!” Ultimately, Berlin has allowed me to start my own business and I am forever grateful. I started Garden State Candles out of my kitchen in April 2017, and have since grown to selling internationally, landing a space in Le Bon Marché in Paris and Neiman Marcus. What inspires the you scents you create? Born in Washington D.C. to a Moroccan father and a French mother, then moving to Montreal for my studies, and now residing in Berlin, my worldly experiences come through in my candle scents. I take inspiration from some of my most cherished childhood memories, the people closest to me, and the best of what nature has to offer. My rescue dog, Louee, is one of the biggest influences on my brand. Not only is he the face of Garden State Candles, but he is the reason I donate a portion of profits to support animal rescue shelters. What are some ways Garden State Candles prioritizes environmental sustainability? Our candles are hand-poured using a

biodegradable, GMO- and paraffin-free soy wax. They are scented with botanical fragrance oils, sourced from the French capital of perfume, Grasse, specifically selected as they are CMR- (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic and Reprotoxic) and phthalate free. Essential oils are the final touch – they are the life force of plants, and are selected for their therapeutic properties. What can participants look forward to when attending one of your candle workshops, like the one on 22 Sept. via themakery.de? Prepare to be transported on a botanical journey, where you will learn about the various advantages of soy wax, get hints and tips about fragrance blending and, most importantly, create your very own 120ml candle! We also offer candle making workshops for birthdays, bachelorettes, team building, or any event. When friends or family come to visit, what are some things you take them to see? Two weeks ago, my grandmother, mother, and sister came to visit for 24 hours. We grabbed iced coffees from my favorite brunch spot, Silo, and headed to the market at Boxhagener Platz for fresh flowers. It was my sister’s first time in Berlin, so we had to see the city’s landmarks before heading over to my shop at Allerstr. 11.

From there, we walked to Tempelhof to escape the concrete jungle. Before we knew it, it was time for drinks. Through a mall, in the elevator, and across the parking ramp to find the buzzing rooftop bar of Klunkerkranich (www.klunkerkranich.org). We watched the sun set, then grabbed dinner at Chen Che (www. chenche-berlin.de) – a beautiful hidden gem. We dropped off Ma and Grandma before meeting friends to dance the night away at one of my favorite clubs, Sisyphos. Which part of the city do you call home? We’ve been living in Friedrichshain for two years now and we love it. For some home decor head over to Harmony (www.harmony.berlin), my very first Berlin retailer! Victoria Met Albert is another favorite shop (www.victoriametalbert. com). Our Sundays are usually made up of a stroll around the Boxhagener Platz flea market and brunch at Silo. Then we typically head over to Treptower Park to take in some nature before meeting friends at Dachkammer (www. dachkammer.com). I really like this bar for its cozy and eclectic vibes. Clockwise from top left: Silo coffee; Maya Sriqui; Victoria Met Albert; The Garden State Candles store; A eucalyptusscented Garden State Candle; Tempelhofer Park.

SILO COFFEE: COURTESY OF SILO COFFEE; VICTORIA MET ALBERT: COURTESY OF VICTORIA MET ALBERT; TEMPELHOFER FELD: © HOLGER KOPPATSCH, COURTESY OF GRUEN BERLIN. MAYA SRIQUI AND GARDEN STATE CANDLES: COURTESY OF MAYA SRIQUI.

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EASY. GOING.

182753

Autumn Moments

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