Where Magazine Berlin May 2019

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

SPRINGTIME!

WHERETRAVELER.COM

MAY 2019

Explore the city’s green side

C U LT U R E WB MAY COVER.indd 1

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS 10/04/2019 12:33

» An icon

of Berlin nightlife

» A GIGANTIC Hit! Bravo!!!

Broadway World

» Absolutely

perfect!

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Berlin

5.19

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

28

5 Editor’s Note

18

6 Hot Dates Highlights of the month, including the Backstreet Boys, Berlin E-Prix, and May Day celebrations.

SIGHTSEEING

Once they brewed beer at the Kulturbrauerei, today it's culture.

34

23

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Travel through the history of Berlin art at the Berlinische Galerie.

28

ENTERTAINMENT

37

6

SHOPPING

Say goodbye to fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld.

40

37

47

17 Ask The Concierge

52

34 Wohin am Abend German-language shows and culture.

54

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A wardrobe, simple and cosmopolitan.

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PAGE 56

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10/04/2019 12:33

Gardening tips from landscape architect Osama Ahmad.

40 Black & White

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WB MAY COVER.indd 1

ON THE COVER: SPRINGTIME IN BERLIN, © ISTOCK.

MAPS

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

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14 A City Kid With A Green Thumb

16 Top 5 Nature Stores in Berlin

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BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

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10 Riding Free

Two wheels are better than four when it comes to this lakeside history tour.

SHOPPING

Bertaenz-Str. enz-S tr.

Moabit

Bundesministerium

Explore the city’s green side

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

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SPRINGTIME!

Find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

10

BERLIN CITY GUIDE

ESSENTIALS

Tilla Gab -Durieux Linkk riele ri -P -Ter Köötth sttr. erggit-ark r heen neer Prom S r.

St .

Anatol Kotte Behind the lens of this Berlinbased photographer.

C U LT U R E

NIGHTLIFE

Raise a glass to Berlin's summer wine festival, keeping it local!

58 My Perfect Day

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DINING

Tapas, German-style.

Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

Ella-Tre reb be-Str.

AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE MUSIK: © UWE ARENS; BIKING, KARL LAGERFELD: © ISTOCK; DIDO: PRESS SHOT CAA; EARRINGS BY SWAROVSKI; HOTEL STRINBERG: © SANDRA THEN.

Talk cartoons at this year's Pictoplasma Festival.

B Mu

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2019

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WELCOME TO BERLIN ®

In Full Bloom

TM

Local guides. Worldwide.

The dark, long winter is just a distant memory now that the trees are green, the beer gardens are full of happy people, and Berlin's cultural scene is as awake as ever with tons of concerts and outdoor events. One of my favorite things to do in May is enjoy the long evenings by the water. The Admiralbrücke in Kreuzberg is one of the prettiest spots in town to take in some urban vibes and drink a beer while street musicians play, and the nearby Paul-Lincke-Ufer is the perfect starting spot for an evening out, with lots of great restaurants and canal-side walks.

Where magazines can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe

Another great place to visit is the Kulturbrauerei (p. 19), an old industrial brewery turned cultural hub, with cinemas, art schools, pubs and restaurants, and a great street food event every Sunday. And if it's great music you are after, check out our Entertainment calendar (p. 30) and Where Now section (p. 6–8) because May is filled with terrific concerts, including a jazz festival, Dead Can Dance, Rod Stewart, and Dido.

Enjoy your stay!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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®

Berlin is green and cheerful this May. Spend a morning at the museum, celebrate May Day, and take in fabulous music all month long.

18 INTERNATIONAL MAY MUSEUM DAY

Berlin is said to have more museums than rainy days and no stay is complete without visiting at least one. Rain or shine, this day is the perfect occasion, as most of Berlin’s museums take part in this worldwide celebration. Many venues offer free entry this day and host special workshops, talks, and guided tours. This year’s motto: “Museums, the future of living traditions.” www.museumstag.de

ROD STEWART 3 along to The First MAY Sing Cut Is The Deepest as British legend Rod Stewart takes to the stage at the Mercedes-Benz Arena to perform songs from his latest album, Blood Red Roses, and hits from an almost 50-year-long, accolade-filled career. It’s not only his songs that his fans adore, but also his distinctive raspy voice, humor, and charm as a consummate entertainer. www.mercedes-benz-arenaberlin.de

15 DIDO the first time in 15 years, Dido MAY For and her angelic voice are going on tour. On the program at Tempodrom are songs from her new album, Still On My Mind, just released in March, and mega-hits like Here With Me and Thank You, which catapulted her into fame in the late 1990s (with a little help from Eminem). www.tempodrom.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

BOYS 29 BACKSTREET “Backstreet’s back, alright!” The best-selling boy band of all time MAY – with original members AJ, Howie, Nick, Kevin, and Brian – perform live at the Mercedes-Benz Arena this month. After rising to fame in the mid-1990s, they continue to churn out chart toppers. On tour for their latest album, DNA, they will also be playing fan favorites such as Everybody. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

25 MAY

BERLIN E-PRIX

Drivers, start your engines. The official FIA Formula E Championships are made up of 13 rounds in 12 different cities around the world. Round ten takes place in Berlin, as ten teams and 22 all-electric Gen2 cars battle it out at the former Tempelhof Airport. Just be careful not to get whiplash watching the cars whiz past! www.fiaformulae.com

www.wheretraveler.com 7

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

However, in recent years the public holiday has taken on a more peaceful mood, especially at the Myfest street festival around Mariannenplatz, with a children’s program, street food, and live performances. You can also dance the night away at the open-air concert in nearby Görlitzer Park. www.myfest.de

DEAD CAN 16 &17 DANCE

MAY

The unique style of Brendan Perry and Lisa Gerrard has been thrilling audiences since the early ‘80s. Now they are taking their new album, Dionysus, on tour, making a pit stop at Berlin’s Tempodrom.

Expect singing in made-up languages, Mediterranean sounds, and sheer beauty. www.tempodrom.de

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Join in the peaceful May Day celebrations at Myfest street festival.

Take the lift to the 6th floor at KaDeWe for the best food shopping experience.

Secure your tickets to see Rod Stewart perform at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Step inside the “banana bunker” for the Boros Collection of contemporary art.

Check out Mauerpark: a mix of Wall, flea market, and music festival.

Free walking tours are a great intro to the city. Donations are encouraged!

Take a musical break at the Philharmonie’s free “lunch concert” at 1pm.

Contemporary jazz festival XJAZZ opens tonight.

Picasso fans shouldn’t miss the impressive collection at Museum Berggruen.

Heinzel Cheese Talk (and eating too) at Markthalle Neun tonight.

Stuck in Orbit playing at the English Theater. It’s space drama and science.

Register for the “Bees Hands-on” Family Sunday at Domäne Dahlem farm.

Electric Monday at Berlin’s infamous Kit Kat Club. Dress code: anything goes.

Mad scientists (and future ones) can let loose at the Science Center Spectrum.

Don’t miss the angelic voice of Dido as she steps onto the stage at Tempodrom.

Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

Ring the doorbell to retro speakeasy bar Green Door for an upscale cocktail or two.

Join thousands of women running the Avon Frauenlauf.

Pay homage to our cultural gems on International Museum Day. Monday night is salsa night at Clärchens Ballhaus. Beginners’ class starts at 7pm.

Explore the art nouveau courtyards and boutique stores at Hackesche Höfe.

Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus. It’s “caffeine for the ears.”

Share a vegetarian Chinese hot pot at Tianfuzius. The emphasis is on hot!

Immerse yourself in the German sauna culture at Vabali.

Drivers, start your engines! The Berlin E-Prix zooms round Tempelhof Airport.

Brunchtime inside the greenhouse of the Königliche Gartenakademie.

Listen to cutting-edge sounds at Experimontag at Madame Claude bar.

Take a walk on the wild side at the Berlin Zoo and Aquarium.

Best-selling boy band of all time, Backstreet Boys, live at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Feast on international delicacies at Street Food Thursday at Markthalle Neun.

Asparagus is deliciously unavoidable at the Beelitzer Spargel Festival.

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

DEAD CAN DANCE, ©FKP SCORPIO; BACKSTREET BOYS: © LIVE NATION; DIDO: PRESS SHOT CAA; EPRIX, MUSEUM DAY, MAY DAY: © ISTOCK.COM; ROD STEWART: © LAWRENCE MATHESON.

MAY DAY 1 Day in Berlin has historically been associated MAY Labor with violent street demonstrations in Kreuzberg.

MAY

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2019

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gronewald.com

Fragrances, made in Berlin.

Store Berlin Zimmerstr. 13 (near Checkpoint Charlie) / Mon - Sat 10 - 18 h / frau-tonis-parfum.com

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN ON TWO WHEELS

RIDING FREE

Annabelle Mallia says a good bicycle is all you need to fully enjoy spring in Berlin.

O

n almost every street in Berlin, you can find a huge range of people on their bikes – from businesspeople in suits on their way to work to kids on their way to school, from clubbers on their way home from a night out to grandparents in their Sunday best. Cycling is so ingrained in Berlin culture that children must pass a bike test to graduate fourth grade. Many Berliners prefer biking even over the efficient public transport system on offer.

What makes Berlin such a great biking city? So many things. The capital has a fantastic biking infrastructure in place with more than 600km of dedicated bike paths,

making biking here safer and easier than in most big cities. Even when you do have to ride on the main road, drivers are attuned to watching out for cyclist. In fact, many in Berlin feel that it’s the bikers who rule the roads, not the cars. Berlin is also very flat, so you can see a lot without it being too taxing, and you won’t arrive at your destination out of breath and sweaty.

So when in Berlin, do as the Berliners do and see the city by bike. There’s no shortage of rental places around, and online you can easily find well-known bike routes geared toward tourists. But we are going to recommend a route less traveled that takes you to see the natural beauty of Berlin, as

well as important yet less-visited cultural and historical sights.

Touring The Forests And Lakes The tour starts at the S-Wannsee train station. You could ride there, but it will be quicker to catch the train. When taking the train with your bike, look out for the special carriages marked with a big bike on the window, and don’t forget to purchase an AB Fahrrad ticket in addition to your regular fare. If it’s a glorious, sunny weekend, you surely won’t be the only one with a bike on the train.

10 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2019

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URBAN ALTERNATIVES

Far left: Cycling around the city center; above: Schloss Cecilienhof; below: Glienicker Brücke.

A fascinating historical city ride goes along the Berlin Wall Trail, which leads you down the city’s former border. It is possible to see the whole 160-kilometers of the border, but we’d recommend a shorter urban section that goes between Mauerpark and the East Side Gallery, via the Berlin Wall Memorial, Potsdamer Platz, and Checkpoint Charlie. It’s a ride that is both historical and easily achievable. VisitBerlin (www.visitberlin. de) has all the details you’ll need for navigating.

For a more multicultural neighborhood, follow the Landwehr Canal through the district of Kreuzberg.

Prinzenstraße is as good a place as any to start, riding in the direction of Görlitzer Park. Stop for a round of bocce and refueling at any of the numerous waterside cafés and restaurants along the way – Italian pizzeria Il Casolare, ramen joint Cocolo Xberg, and German restaurant Volt are popular.

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

Do it on your own or as part of a guided tour with companies such as Fat Tire Bike Tours (www.fattiretours.com) or Berlin on Bike (www.berlinonbike.de).

From the S-Bahn, pedal right on Königstraße just a short distance before turning down Am Großen Wannsee and you’ll soon reach the first attraction, the Liebermann Villa (www.liebermann-villa. de). This mansion turned museum was once the summer house of German Impressionist painter Max Liebermann and is now a gallery dedicated to his works. Just a few hundred meters further down is the Haus der Wannsee Konferenz (www.ghwk.de), the location of a conference with earthshaking consequences. Here in 1942, 15 high-ranking representatives of the Nazi government met to discuss the so-called Final Solution and signed the planned www.wheretraveler.com 11

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN WWII ON TWO WHEELS

Clockwise from above, left: Pfaueninsel; Lake Wannsee; Schloss Cecilienhof; A Mobike bicycle in Mitte.

deportation and extermination of millions of European Jews. Today, the villa is a museum and memorial.

At the bottom of this street, look out for a little path taking you to an impressive, expansive view of the Wannsee lake and follow the shoreline clockwise through an enchanting forested area. At the Wirthaus zur Pfaueninsel (www.pfaueninsel.de) beer garden you can stop for a refreshing drink or a delicious meal and then take a very short ferry trip (without your bikes) across to Pfaueninsel, an idyllic Prussian island retreat where Frederick William II built a neo-Gothic castle for his mistress.

Imported peacocks continue to roam the island (hence the name).

When you return from the island, get back on your bike and continue a little further on to Wirthaus Moorlake (www.moorlake.de), the perfect spot for a satiating waterside lunch with traditional German flavors. Next on the route is the Baroque-style Jagdschloss Glienecke (www.spsg.de), the hunting

lodge of Great Elector Frederick William, built in the late 1600s, followed by the infamous Glienicker Brücke, where captured Russian and American spies were exchanged during the Cold War. A right turn after the bridge will take you into Potsdam’s Neuen Garten park, home to the last palace built by the Hohenzollern dynasty, Schloss Cecilienhof (www.spsg. de). It’s a combination of cottage and Tudor Gothic style, and definitely not your typical palace. More importantly, it is where the victorious big three (Stalin, Churchill, and Truman) met at the end of WWII to discuss the occupation and splitting up of Germany, which effectively lasted until the Wall came down.

If you have even more pedal power left, continue exploring Potsdam, Brandenburg’s charming capital, including the Sanssouci Palace and park (www. spsg.de) before catching the train back to the city (this time with an ABC ticket!) after a fabulous day of sightseeing done the Berlin way.

USEFUL INFO

BIKE SHARING: The most popular bike-sharing company these days is Mobike. You’ll have to download the app and register first, but then you can just grab any of their ubiquitous bikes and follow instructions on your phone to unlock and go. Warning: service only operated within the S-Bahn ring.

BIKE RENTAL: Bike Rent & Bike Tours: Budapester Str. 45, Europa Center. www.berlinbicycle.de Rent a Bike Berlin: Friedrichstraße 210, www.rentabike-berlin.de Bike gadgets and culture Radwelt (Leipziger Str. 56, www.radwelt.de) is a large bike-themed emporium selling cool gadgets, accessories, and, of course, bikes.

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Haus am Waldsee 18. 5. – 25. 8. 2019

Lynn Chadwick Beasts of the Times

Lynn Chadwick Katja Strunz Hans Uhlmann

WB GEORGE KOLBE MUSEUM.indd 1 Lynn Chadwick, Beast Alerted I, 1990, Rostfreier Stahl, Courtesy of the Estate of Lynn Chadwick and Blain|Southern, Photo: Jonty Wilde We thank the Stiftung Deutsche Klassenlotterie Berlin for their generous support, as well as the Friends and Supporters of Haus am Waldsee and the Friends of Georg Kolbe Museum

Georg Kolbe Museum 18. 5. – 15. 9. 2019

12/04/2019 11:16

A City Kid With A

Green Thumb Rose-Anne Clermont spoke to a landscape architect for the best garden tips in Berlin.

W

This photo: The Amerikasee at Botanischer Garten. Above: Art at the Naturpark Südgelände in Schöneberg; Above right: Osama “Oz” Ahmad

ith over 2000 parks, 16,500 hectares of forest, and nearly half a million trees, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities.

These official numbers don’t include hundreds of guerilla gardens that have popped up in even the grungiest corners of the city. If you look up, you might even spot rooftops lush with vegetation – Berliners have a penchant for repurposing space.

Osama Ahmad, “Oz”, is a landscape architect who has transformed some of those drab rooftops and other locations into vibrant gardens. Having grown up in West Berlin before the Wall came down, Ahmad has not only witnessed the evolution of Berlin’s gardens and parks, he has actively participated in diversifying the city’s unique garden culture as the owner of Grasgrau, a gardening and landscape design center.

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This photo and above: Examples of Osama Ahmad’s work

You grew up in Berlin. Why did you want to become a landscape architect?

b

As a city kid, I was interested in nature from an early age. We were outdoors a lot, especially in abandoned lots during the pre-reunification era. I was interested in the old and bombedout factory buildings, especially how nature reclaimed them.

GREENHOUSE, AMERIKASEE AND JAPANESE PAVILLION: COURTESY OF BOTANISCHER GARTEN, © I. HAAS, BOTANISCHER GARTEN UND BOTANISCHES MUSEUM BERLINDAHLEM; NATURPARK SÜDGELÄNDE: © HOLGER KOPPATCH.

What do you like most about your work?

I spend a lot of time in nature and get to see beautiful gardens. I enjoy working with people and communicating. It’s great to realize people’s wishes and to develop them together. They are usually ever-evolving projects. After all, a garden grows. It is an emotional topic, and we cultivate relatively long relationships with our clients and their gardens.

What’s the first thing you do when you design a garden?

I start by looking for the “dream spot,” a quiet and dreamy focal point in the garden, where the owner can linger in his/her thoughts.

What is your favorite flower?

Lindheimer’s bee blossom, the scientific name is Gaura lindheimeri.

Which places do you recommend for garden lovers to visit?

One is the Königlichen Garten Akademie (Altenstein Straße 15a, www. koenigliche-gartenakademie.de). At first, it seems like a botanical garden with carefully

The Japanese pavillion at Botanischer Garten; inset, below: the main greenhouse at Botanischer Garten.

arranged displays of plants, trees, and flowers from all over the world, which are actually all for sale. One can either stroll outdoors or sit amidst the flowers in the greenhouse café. It’s pure English-garden lifestyle and a great place for those who have a special attitude toward life.

For a prime example of art and nature in harmony, I recommend Max Liebermann’s Garden in Wannsee (Colomierstraße 3, www. liebermann-villa.de). This renowned Impressionst painter created more than 200 oil paintings of the garden that surrounded his picturesque lakeside villa, now a museum.

The garden was also an inspiration for Paul Klee and Claude Monet, who based some of their greatest masterpieces on this place.

On the opposite side of town, the Gärten der Welt in Marzahn (Eisenacherstraße 99, www. gruen-berlin.de) displays garden designs from five continents. I am proud that we have such diverse gardens in our metropolis.

I also really like the urban feel at Naturpark Südgelände (Prellerweg 47-49, www. gruen-berlin.de/natur-park-suedgelaende) in Schöneberg; it is a former railway shunting yard that was allowed to grow wild after it

shut down after the war. Spread out over 18 hectares, the tracks and station buildings have been left amidst the wild grass, and a large wall open to graffiti artists juxtaposes the old station with new creativity. I think this is a great example of how an abandoned piece of land can become an oasis of garden art.

Then there’s Klunkerkranich (Karl Marx Straße 66, www.klunkerkranich.org), a rooftop garden, bar, and nightlife destination located on the rooftop parking lot of a mall with panoramic views of Berlin. It’s a great urban gardening project in the middle of the city and an oasis for all creative artists, freelancers, and party people.

Where do you like to go with your children?

We like Botanischer Garten in Steglitz (Königin-Luise-Straße 6-8, www.bgbm.org/en/ home) and Schlosspark (Spandauer Damm 10-22, www. spsg.de), which is the garden of the Charlottenburg Palace. Both places give me a sense of calm, because they are complete and have grown over many years. Many gardens still need time to grow. But if I am by myself I prefer to take a walk in the forest – ‘forest-bathing’ so to speak, far away from civilization. www.wheretraveler.com 15

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WHERE NOW | TOP 5

5 Shops For

From top to bottom: camping equipment; decorative seeds; insect hotel.

Nature Lovers The trees are green and the birds are singing.

Time to bring some nature to our homes.

Solveig Steinhardt picked out her favorite shops for both adventure seekers and lovers of nature-themed gadgets and books.

Anyone who’s into seeds, bugs, birds, and plants should visit the Botanischer Garten in Steglitz, with its greenhouses and endless fields with biodiverse habitats. The garden’s shop (right in the middle of the park next to the main greenhouse) is not to be missed. Stock up on decorative baobab seeds, birdwatching books, CDs with nature sounds, and cool gardening tools.

Königin-Luise-Straße 6-8 www.bgbm.org

Globetrotter You don’t have to be planning a trip to the rain forest to visit this emporium for adventure and nature gear. In fact, the mere act of stepping into

Globetrotter is an adventure itself, forest sounds and all. In addition to technical clothes for all kinds of environments, they also have an indoor pool where you can try out the kayaks for sale, endless aisles of camping equipment, a climbing wall for testing shoes and ropes, a vegan café, a center for tropical medicine where you can get travel shots right away, and a fabulous travel-themed bookstore for planning your next adventure.

Schloßstraße 78-82 www.globetrotter.de

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht’s cabinet of curiosities (Wunderkammer) on the first floor of his gallery is what inspired the museum’s

marvelous shop, dedicated to the mysteries of nature, science, and even magic. With mounted animals, mind-boggling games, dried insects, optical illusions, and lab jars, this is the best place in town for the old-school scientist at heart.

Auguststraße 68 www.me-berlin.com

Marheineke Platz Just outside Marheineke Markthalle in Kreuzberg is a small antique market with a regular stand selling beautiful reproductions of 19th-century scientific charts and

illustrations. Frame them to add a classy, geological touch to your living-room decor.

Marheineke Platz, Kreuzberg

Bauhaus The city’s biggest hardware store has a great nature and gardening section carrying lots of interesting outdoor equipment. The most German of all is the “insect hotel,” a small house you place outside in order to attract and host up to five different types of bugs.

We’ve got to protect our invertebrate friends!

Kurfürstendamm 129A

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

Botanischer Garten

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges.

Marc Schnabel, concierge at Hotel Bristol Berlin, shares his expertise on bike tours of the city. www.lcdg.org

How is Berlin different from other cities?

A relatively young metropolis by European standards, Berlin consistently reinvents itself, and it's a place that never rests. It has evolved from a city of political turmoil and division to one of freedom and diversity.

What is the best way to see the city?

Thanks to its flatness and well-developed cycle lanes, Berlin is best explored by bike.

Can you recommend a historical bike route?

A mere three decades ago, the Berlin Wall divided the Eastern and the Western Bloc; now the Wall is a focal point for every visitor, and we can all explore its remnants. Retrace its former course from the Brandenburg Gate via Potsdamer Platz to Checkpoint Charlie, then stop there and observe the commotion. Back in the day, tough military controls permitted few to cross the border, now there are streams of cars and people flowing freely.

From top to bottom: Biking by the Wall; Holzmarkt; the East Side Gallery; Siegessäule.

miss the diverse architectural styles and the wide range of restaurants.

Where can visitors get a taste of multicultural Berlin?

Ride through the multinational district of Kreuzberg, with its Turkish barbers, Arabic greengrocers, and Asian snack spots.

Secret tips for Berlin?

Complete your trip with a well-deserved cool drink at Holzmarkt, a hive of creative urban development and a melting pot of Berlin’s vibrant population. Hipsters, avant-gardists, business people, tourists – they all meet here. The East Side Gallery, the longest still-standing section of the Wall, is also close by, providing a stage for graffiti and street art.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARC SCHNABEL.

A relaxing suggestion?

The winding trails of Tiergarten, Berlin’s largest park, are great to explore by bike. It's relaxing to breathe in deeply and forget the hustle and bustle of the city.

Where would you recommend for shopping?

The city's main boulevard, Kurfürstendamm, sets the stage for world-famous fashion brands. But don’t

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP! Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, spa services, booking transportation, shipping goods home, or simply to ask for recommendations.

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SIGHTSEEING

The Kulturbrauerei

KULTURBRAUEREI © ISTOCK

B

erlin is famous for its converted spaces. Old factories turned nightclubs, boats transformed into floating swimming pools, water pumps serving as climbing walls, airport runways made into tracks for skaters – these are just some examples of the city’s genius for reinvention.

One of the most interesting and successful “space recycling” projects of the past decades is the Kulturbrauerei (Schönhauser Allee 36, U Eberswalder Str.).

This former brewery complex located in Prenzlauer Berg is now a veritable village for culture and entertainment and a great place

to spend a few hours – or even a whole day.

Originally built by a few families of beer manufacturers in the late 1800s, this 25,000 sq.m. complex is a striking example of early industrial architecture, with red-brick walls and twelve different buildings that still bear the original inscriptions indicating their former use. What once were warehouses, horse stables, bottle-cooling areas, and machinery rooms now host around 40 institutions including bars, restaurants, a cinema, drama schools, dance stages, a poetry center, and even a study-abroad branch of New York University.

The city-funded Museum in der Kulturbrauerei (www.hdg.de/museum-inder-kulturbrauerei), housed in the former

garage, explores everyday life in the GDR through documents, installations, testimonies, and reconstructions of sights once common in East Germany, such as the almost-empty shelves in grocery stores and propaganda-driven newsstands. On Sundays, the Kulturbrauerei’s courtyards fill up with international culinary delights with Street Food auf Achse, a lively food market.

With trucks, stands, and communal tables, this is the perfect stop for a bite before catching a movie at the Kino at the Kulturbrauerei (www.cinestar.de, look for “OmU” for un-dubbed films) or a show at club Kesselhaus/Maschinenhaus.

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

XXXXXXXXX © ISTOCK

What’s Brewing?

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© ISTOCK

SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS

both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

The “Alex” TV Tower

Haus der Kulturen der Welt

The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines.

Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de.John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the ever since its ruins were restored to their dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze present state in 1957. The old church’s at elaborate sarcophagi containing ruins now host an exhibition of before the royal remains of Hohenzollern and after photos documenting its family members. Thanks to the former splendor and showing the church’s perfect acoustics and Ku’damm before the bombs. a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom What used to be the city’s most Look up to admire what is is also an important concert central airport is now a left of the old mosaic. venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun four-hectare public park, and the Open daily from 9am to 6pm.

9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. runways are used for www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. www.berlinerdom.de. cycling, skating, and many Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. other sports.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119.

U Zoologischer Garten, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Kurfürstendamm. C4

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

DID YOU KNOW?

MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Gendarmenmarkt The harmonious square was named after the gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus.

In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time, Friedrich Schiller.

U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop.

Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

Wo war die Mauer?

Foto: Nationales Denkmal für die Opfer des Mauerbaus und der deutschen Teilung an der Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, Hans-Hermann Hertle

Brandenburg Gate

Where did the Berlin Wall run?

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza, filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive

neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view

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SIGHTSEEING

THE PERFECT

- BERLIN WEEKEND -

Berliners definitely know how to make the most out of every weekend.

Follow our guide to join them with two full days of food, fun, entertainment, and culture.

SATURDAY SUNDAY -----------------------------------------------12:30pm: Head on foot to Museum Island, enjoying the walk through Monbijoupark and along the Spree River.

Once there, check out the Ancient Egyptian collection at the Neues Museum, including the iconic bust of Nefertiti, or admire classical sculptures at the Bode Museum.

11am: Indulge in a long brunch at Russian-Jewish restaurant Pasternak (Knaackstr. 22–24, www. restaurant-pasternak.de), where the loaded buffet includes things like blini pancakes filled with creamy cheese, devilled eggs with caviar, and smoked fish.

--------------------------------------1:30pm: It’s a pleasant walk from there to the popular flea markets at Arkonaplatz and Mauerpark, which are great for antiques, retro knick-knacks, handcrafts, and people watching.

-----------------------------------------------

---------------------------------------------

2:30pm: After a quick bite at Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www.monsieurvuong.de), one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants in the city, do a little shopping around one of the city’s best boutique districts, browsing around Mulackstraße, Alte Schönhauser Straße, and Weinmeisterstraße.

3pm: From Mauerpark, head down the road to the Berlin Wall Memorial, where you can explore a moving monument to the Wall’s victims (Bernauer Str. 111, www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de).

----------------------------------------5pm: Ride the elevator to the top of the famed TV Tower at Alexanderplatz and for a drink at sunset.

-----------------------------------4pm: Take the S-Bahn to Tiergarten for coffee and cake at lovely Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee.de), then take a scenic stroll through the park.

----------------------------------------8pm: After freshening up, head out to super-chic Tausend (Schiffbauerdamm 11, www. tausendberlin.com). Restaurant, bar, and club in one, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy great Asian-fusion cuisine and cocktails and then dance into the night.

-------------------------------------7:30pm: At the edge of Tiergarten is the 25hours Hotel – head up to the penthouse for a fresh, Israeli-Mediterranean dinner at NENI, inclusive of gorgeous views over the city.

©ISTOCK; DISTRIKT COFFEE COURTESY OF DISTRIKT COFFEE; NENI COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTELS

10am: Grab a table at Distrikt Coffee in Mitte (Bergstr. 68), where buttermilk pancakes, poached eggs, and great coffee will get the day off to the right start.

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SIGHTSEEING of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit.

Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de.

Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152.

U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods.

Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111.

S Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie

Also see HISTORY MUSEUMS in the MUSEUMS & GALLERIES section

During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Asisi’s Wall Panorama

Cold War Black Box

HISTORIC SITES

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist’s aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

DISCOVER THE BEST OF BERLIN

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

This small building near Checkpoint Charlie provides a good introduction to the history of the Cold War through maps, videos, historic documents, photographs, and objects.

Open daily 10am–6pm. €5/2. Under-14s free. www.zentrumkalter-krieg.de. Friedrichstr. 47.

T: 030.2163571.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

®

TRAVELERS KNOW WHERE

© ISTOCK

Under The Bridge

It is said that there are more bridges in Berlin than in Venice. If you don’t believe it, then hop aboard a river boat and start counting. The bigger river cruise companies like Reederei Riedel (www.reederei-riedel.de) and Stern und Kreis (www. sternundkreis.de) offer different Bridge Cruises. The classic three-hour tours take visitors under 63 of Berlin’s 900+ bridges, some of them so low you’ll have to duck down to prevent bumping your head. They also pass by sites such as the Reichstag and government quarter, Museum Island, Berliner Dom, and Nikolaiviertel, as well as through several of the city’s younger districts, including Kreuzberg, Neukölln, and Friedrichshain. While the live guides will explain the sites in German only, the multilingual audio-guides provide interesting information on historical and modern Berlin in up to six languages.

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SIGHTSEEING East Side Gallery

Stasi Prison

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall’s eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66.

T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk.

Off Map

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010.

S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

FAMILY ATTRACTIONS Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and

the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

POTSDAM Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam’s Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted “a place to be without cares.” The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200.

S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city’s eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de.

T: 030.200037441.

Tempelhofer Damm.

S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

RUSSIAN GIRL WITH POWDER BOX, COURTESY OF BERLINISCHE GALEIRE, PAINTING BY LOTTE LASERSTEIN.

Lotte Laserstein’s painting, Girl With Powder Box.

Traveling Through Berlin Art

A

rt is interwoven with Berlin’s past, present, and future, and the Berlinische Galerie (p. 25) celebrates the city as a hotspot for art and creativity.

Since its founding in 1975, the gallery’s permanent collection and special exhibitions feature art by artists from Berlin and by those who found their calling here. These artists range from well-known masters to contemporary up-and-coming figures.

Starting in the late 19th century, the collection represents diverse movements and styles including Expressionism, Dada,

and post-war modern architecture. Central to the collection is work by the art collective known as the November Group. Founded after the end of WWI in November 1918, the group’s mission was to unite art with everyday people, and it did. Hannah Höch and Otto Dix are two of several November Group artists whose work is included in the permanent collection.

This month, the gallery is showing Lotte Laserstein’s unique contribution to the German art scene of the early 20th century.

This German/Swedish and Jewish painter was

an influential artist in the 1920s and is known for her works that fused Romanticism with Modernism. The exhibition Lotte Laserstein.

Face to Face, on show until 12 August, explores her depiction of the “New Woman” of the 1920s. And for would-be time travelers, be sure to check out the exhibition Underground Architecture, Berlin Metro Stations 1953-1994, up until 20 May, for a lively, subterranean trip of the capital through decades of subway-station architecture.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

HISTORY MUSEUMS DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de.

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day.

Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages.

Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78 T: 030 22802900.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Ephraim Palais

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a.

T: 030.50585233.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14.

T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum. de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162.

U Märkisches Museum. F3

Handcrafted In Berlin

Artists have been drawn to Berlin for decades, and the capital never fails to inspire them. The city is a testing ground for new ways to work with materials and traditions.

And Berlin Will Always Need You. Art, Craft And Concept Made in Berlin, on show at the Martin Gropius Bau (p. 26), explores the mutually beneficial relationship between artists and Berlin. Large-scale installations are the focus of the show, and each draws attention to how it was made, usually through a mix of traditional and contemporary practices. The pieces are decorative and conceptual and visually alluring. Large-scale mixed media work by Nevin Aladağ and Olaf Holzapfel draw the eye with their contrasting Byzantine-inspired motifs and modern handcrafted approach.

Until 16 June.

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents.

Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45.

T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei What was life like in Communist East Germany?

The permanent exhibition Everyday Life in the GDR at the Kulturbrauerei answers this question

with such diverse objects as breakfast dishes, sports uniforms, and ad posters, as well as witness accounts, film material, and more. The aim is to preserve a cultural memory of a country that may no longer exist, though its legacy lives on. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm). Closed Mon. € free. www.hdg.de. Knaackstr. 97.

T: 030.467777911. U Eberswalder Straße. F1–F2

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc.

EPAMINONDA UNTITLED, MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU. PARAVENT BY NEVIN ALADAG.

Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr.

16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de.

Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090.

U Kochstraße. E4

ANCIENT ART MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

VIRTUAL REALITY BRILLE MIT MÖNCH AM MEER IM HINTERGRUND CASPAR DAVID FRIEDRICH: MÖNCH AM MEER, 1808–1810 © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / FOTO: ANDRES KILGER

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum.

Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through end of 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

ART AND DESIGN Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

The Temporary Bauhaus-Archiv Celebrate 100 years of Bauhaus in Berlin! While the original Bauhaus-Archiv/Museum für Gestaltung is being renovated and extended and will remain

closed until further notice, visit the temporary space with the bauhaus-shop® in Charlottenburg.

Every Saturday, 10 am - 2 pm: bauhaus_lab | drop in. Engage with design in a practical way!

Admission free. Open daily, except Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm. www.bauhaus.de Knesebeckstr. 1-2 T: 030/30641768, U Ernst-Reuter-Platz D4

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. T: 030: 32690600.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50.

Watch paintings come to life with the new virtual reality sets offered at the Alte Nationalgalerie (this page).

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

STRONG FIGURES. GREEK PORTRAITS FROM ANTIQUITY

WEIMAR: THE ESSENCE AND VALUE OF DEMOCRACY

THE EXOTIC COUNTRY

Deutsches Historisches Museum, to 22 Sep:

German History Museum, to 12 May:

Greek portraiture, traditions, and culture.

Preservation and archiving in times of war.

Photo reportages on West Germany by Stefan Moses.

Altes Museum, from 24 May:

GUSTAVE CAILLEBOTTE, IMPRESSIONIST

Alte Nationalgalerie, from 17 May:

THE LIVES OF IMAGES

Museum Berggruen, to 19 May:

HOW TO TALK WITH BIRDS, TREES, FISH, SHELLS, SNAKES, BULLS AND LIONS

Caillebotte’s iconic Impressionist work comes to Berlin.

Drawings and sculptures by Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee, Henri Matisse, and Georges Braque.

THE BLACK IMAGE CORPORATION

LEITER. LYNCH. NEWTON: NUDES

An interwoven project exploring nature, human influence, and the environment.

Images of contemporary AfricanAmerican identity and beauty.

The museum’s first exhibition to be dedicated to nude photography.

FROM ARTS AND CRAFTS TO THE BAUHAUS: ART AND DESIGN, A NEW UNITY

Martin Gropius Bau, to 28 Jul:

OBJECTS OF WONDER. BRITISH SCULPTURE 1950S –PRESENT

PalaisPopulaire, to 27 May:

Over 70 works from the Tate Collection, including scuptures

by Henry Moore and Eileen Agar.

BERLIN 18/19 Märkisches Museum, to 19 May: The November Revolution in Berlin and its repercussions, visible to the present day.

Newton Foundation, to 19 May:

MANTEGNA AND BELLINI

Gemäldegalerie, to 30 Jun:

Around 100 works by Andrea Mantegna and Giovanni Bellini.

Hamburger Bahnhof, to 12 May:

Bröhan Museum, to 5 May:

Celebrating the 100th birthday of the Bauhaus.

BORIS MIKHAILOV. BEFORE SLEEP/AFTER DRINKING

COLORFUL STONES: TUCKER, SCHIEMENZ, GUGGISBERG

C/O Berlin, to 1 Jun:

Color in quiet harmony.

Everyday scenes depicting the aftermath of the Soviet collapse.

Georg-Kolbe-Museum, to 1 May:

www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The

Exhibits from Bauhaus and Photography on show at the Museum of Photography until 25 August.

multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts.

The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.”

Wed–mon noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com.

Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Barberini Potsdam

Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism.

With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free).

Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6.

T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Martin-Gropius-Bau

Museum Berggruen

Helmut Newton Foundation

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm.

Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909

WILLI RUGE SELBSTBILDNIS AUS DER REGENWURM-PERSPEKTIVE, CA. 1927 SILBERGELATINEPAPIER © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK © ERBENGEMEINSCHAFT RUGE. DOMINIQUE TEUFEN FLASHLIGHT SCULPTURE #3, 2013 FARBABZUG, COURTESY CHRISTOPHE GUYE GALERIE, ZÜRICH © DOMINIQUE TEUFEN

Museums Calendar

Our roundup of the best exhibitions this month.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. www.db-palaispopulaire.de.

Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

SCIENCE MUSEUMS

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.8891408591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Deutsches Technikmuseum

Museum of Natural History

MUST SEE At the museum for all things

technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Museum of Communication

No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more.

Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Sammlung Hoffmann

Menschen Museum

An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private art collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturday mornings, but you’ll need to book ahead. Guided tours Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlunghoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Sophienstr. 21.

T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1.

Sammlung Boros

Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe’s first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43.

T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

FAMILY MUSEUMS

Also see FAMILY ATTRACTIONS in the SIGHTSEEING section Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games.

Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Deutsches Spionage Museum (German Spy Museum) Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de.

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Talking Cartoons

“I

f everyone isn’t completely knocked out and dazzled and slightly intimidated by me, I don‘t feel good about myself,” Fantastic Mr. Fox said in a moment of acute self-awareness. The charismatic star of the Oscar-nominated Wes Anderson film is one of the central figures of this year’s Pictoplasma Festival (8–12 May), which gives audiences the chance to meet animators and illustrators working with film, video games, and graphic novels.

Swiss illustrator Félicie Haymoz, who worked with Anderson on Fantastic Mister Fox and his most recent stop-motion animated movie, Isle of Dogs, is the headline

speaker at this year’s festival, and throughout the five days, leading figures in the world of animation will come together to discuss some of the newest trends in the industry.

Members of the public are also given the chance to pick the brains of some of the stars of contemporary animation. Alongside Haymoz, speakers include video game illustrator Cornelia Geppert and Philippa Rice, the illustrator behind the bestselling Soppy comics.

The festival, based at Babylon cinema in Mitte, will also premier more than 100 new animations. By registering for the festival (conference.pictoplasma.com/registration),

you’ll have the chance to attend showings of new animations from around the globe, many of which will be followed by Q&As with the production team. A particular highlight is a special anniversary show of sculptures and animations staged in the dark cellars of a former crematorium turned cultural center (Gerichtstraße 35). The exhibition features interactive art work and cartoons that almost come alive – but the organizers assure us there is nothing to fear. All that is on show promises to knock us out, dazzle, and even slightly intimidate us.

JÖRG LUYKEN

COURTESY OF PICTOPLASMA . NEXT PAGE: AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE MUSIK: © UWE ARENS. XXXXXXXXX

ENTERTAINMENT

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. www.komische-oper-berlin. de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400.

U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin’s historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.2035540.

Unter den Linden 7.

U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Ancient Music For All

ENTERTAINMENT

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

With premium concert halls such as the Konzerthaus and the Philharmonie, Berlin is often considered one of the world’s capitals of classical music. These venues’ programs, however, are usually relatively modern, with lots of symphonic and orchestral music of the 1800s and 1900s.

For fans of the older composers, such as Bach, Händel, Telemann, and the like, the best option is the Akademie für Alte Musik (www.akamus.de). This small but world-famous ensemble researches the music of ancient masters and uses original instruments of the time to deliver philological reproductions of the composers’ works. This month, the academy will be performing twice (1 and 2 May) at the Konzerthaus, playing Händel’s marvelous Concerti Grossi op, 3, followed by pieces by Georg Philipp Telemann. Missed that? Then check out the programs of the city’s Lutheran churches, which often have their own choirs and ensembles and always organize high-quality concerts. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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ENTERTAINMENT Our roundup of the best shows happening this month.

Concert Calendar KOMISCHE OPER 1 May: My Fair Lady (Loewe) 18 May: West Side Story (Bernstein)

DEUTSCHE OPER 16 May: The Magic Flute (Mozart) 20 May: The Barber of Seville (Rossini) 30 May: Don Quichotte (Massenet)

STAATSOPER 3, 5, 9, 12 May: Tosca (Puccini) 23, 26, 30 May: Macbeth (Verdi)

Classical CHAMBER MUSIC HALL 7 May: Pianist Seong-Jin Cho performs Schubert, Debussy, and Mussorgsky.

17 May: Pianist Rafal Blechacz plays Mozart, Beethoven, Chopin.

22 May: Jordi Savall in concert.

PHILHARMONIE 9-11 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Haitink) play Mozart and Bruckner.

Blue Man Group

16-18 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Blomstedt) and pianist Yefim Bronfman perform Beethoven and Stenhammar.

23-25 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Järvi) perform Berg, Bach, Bruckner.e 30 May-1 June: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Sanderling) perform Haydn and Shostakovich.e and Str

KONZERTHAUS 3–5 May: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. De Billy) perform Beethoven, Strauss, and Ravel.

20 May: Academy of Saint Martin in the Fields and Julia Fischer (violin) perform Bach, Dvorak, and more.

11 May: Mumford & Sons 29 May: Backstreet Boys

Dance, Musicals, Cabaret, Variety STAATSBALLETT Throughout May: Balanchine, Forsythe, and Siegal, at the Staatsoper.

CHAMÄLEON VARIETE All month: Memories of Fools.

FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST All month: VIVID Grand Show

ADMIRALSPALAST 1–5 May: Jesus Christ Superstar, the classic American musical.

WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ

Pop, Rock, Jazz

All month: Let’s Twist Again, Rockabilly hits & acrobatics.

TEMPODROM 15 May: Dido, Still On My Mind Tour.

16, 17 May: Dead Can Dance, with their new album, Dionysus.

MERCEDES-BENZARENA

4 May: DJ Bobo

TIPI AM KANZLERAMT 1–4 May: The Fabulous Singlettes, The Return of the Fabulous Singlettes.

3 May: Rod Stewart and his band live.

The Fabulous Singlettes

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de.

Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school singlescreen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019.

S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm.

www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550.

S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030.

S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123.

U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de.

Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565.

S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.

BLUE MAN GROUP: COURTESY OF BLUE MAN GROUP. FABULOUS SINGLETTES: © DAVID SOLM.

Opera

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ENTERTAINMENT www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7.

T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top lookand-sound-alike artists and taste a threecourse dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de.

Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de.

Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de.

Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de.

Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, www.wheretraveler.com 31

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ENTERTAINMENT

Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history.

Berlin has a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity. The German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics.

BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra.

The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg. THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“

“HEROES” 1977 Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin.

THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was

released on 1977’s Lust For Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz.

HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“ ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as

“We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time.

CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity.

Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.”

A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick In the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former noman’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.

© ISTOCK

ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954 Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das

War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute.

In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.

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ENTERTAINMENT where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.

Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. www.chamaeleonberlin.de.

Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590.

S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin’s most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184.

T: 030.48623186.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Katharine Mehrling

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de.

Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133.

T: 030 68890777.

U-Karl-Marx-Straße.Off map.

DOMINIQUE HORWITZ

vive la vie

Dominique Horwitz singt Brel

May 14 to 26

May 07 to 12

Tickets 030. 883 15 82 www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de

Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

The best events in town

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153.

U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3 An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center offers plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de.

Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

©ISTOCK

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Das Berliner Theatertreffen 2019: Branchentreffen und Bühnenhighlights

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ugegeben: Die Berlinale mit Blitzlichtgewitter und hoher Promidichte ist vielen vertrauter als das Berliner Theatertreffen, das vom 3. bis 20. Mai 2019 zum 56. Mal stattfindet. In seiner Bedeutung steht es dem Film-Spektakel aber in nichts nach.

Gegründet 1963 in politisch bewegten Zeiten – zwei Jahre zuvor wurde die Berliner Mauer gebaut – wurde es zu einer Art kulturellem „Schaufenster des Westens“. Doch die Grundidee hat sich bis heute gehalten, nämlich ein „Bild vom Stand des deutschsprachigen Theaters“ abzugeben. Fast genauso unverändert blieb die Struktur des Theatertreffens: zwei Wochen lang werden zehn herausragende deutschsprachige Inszenierungen im Haus der Berliner Festspiele oder an anderen Spielorten

in der Hauptstadt gezeigt.

Mittlerweile ist das Festival vor allem Branchentreff, Karrierebeschleuniger und Plattform für Ideen sowie Diskussionen über die Theaterszene hinaus. Der Theaternachwuchs hat mit dem sogenannten Stückemarkt eine wichtige Programmsäule, denn hier werden neue Werke und Ideen präsentiert. Weitere feste Punkte sind die internationale Gastspielplattform „Shifting Perspectives“, das Format „TT Kontext“ mit Panels und Diskussionen sowie der Theatertreffen-Blog, der als digitale Festivalzeitung fungiert. Abgerundet wird das Event mit Veranstaltungen für Jugendliche sowie Lesungen und Kurzfilmen.

Herzstück des Festivals ist jedoch die „Top Ten“ der besten deutschsprachigen Stücke – darunter

waren bereits Inszenierungen von Heiner Müller, Tipi am Kanzleramt Katharina Thalbach, Christoph Schlingensief, Thomas Ostermeier oder dem Rimini Protokoll zu sehen. Berliner Bühnen sind regelmäßig in der Bestenliste vertreten. 2019 sind es Unendlicher Spaß von David Foster Wallace in den Sophiensælen (Sophienstraße 18, www. sophiensaele.com), Persona nach Ingrid Bergman am Deutschen Theater (Schumannstraße 13A, www.deutschestheater. de) und Oratorium des Kollektivs She She Pop am HAU (Hallesches Ufer 32, www.hebbel-amufer.de). Das Kollektiv erhält in diesem Jahr auch den mit 20.000 Euro dotierte Theaterpreis des Festivals, den unter anderem bereits Pina Bausch, Bruno Ganz, Frank Castorf, Elfriede Jelinek und Sophie Rois entgegennahmen.

Programm und Tickets unter www.berlinerfestspiele.de SYLVIA LUNDSCHIEN

XXXXXXXXX HOTEL STRINDBERG: © SANDRA THEN

Hotel Strindberg: Simon Stone nach August Strindberg

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Kindern und Jugendlichen Mut machen. www.grips-theater.de Altonaer Straße 22.

T: 030 39747477. U Hansaplatz. C3

Berliner Ensemble Eine der renommiertesten Bühnen Deutschlands.

Neben Stücken von Gründer Bertolt Brecht stehen weitere Theaterklassiker und aktuelle gesellschaftliche Themen auf dem Spielplan.

Zudem gibt es Führungen von Werner Riemann, der seit über 50 Jahren im Haus tätig ist und Brechts Frau, Helene Weigel, noch persönlich kannte.www.berliner-ensemble.de.

Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1. T: 030 28408155.

S+U Friedrichstraße. U Oranienburger Tor. E3

Kleines Theater am Südwestkorso

Berliner Schnauze

Komödie am Kurfürstendamm

Pick up a copy of Where Berlin from your hotel concierge

UIDE ITY G C N I BERL

Wer es gemütlich mag, sollte das Kleine Theater besuchen. Alle Stücke sind Erstaufführungen, darunter auch unterhaltsam-musikalische Hommagen. In unmittelbarer Nähe befinden sich Ateliers, Galerien sowie das Grab von Marlene Dietrich auf dem Friedhof in der Stubenrauchstraße. www.kleines-theater.de.

Südwestkorso 64. T: 030 8212021.

U Rüdesheimer Platz. S+U Bundesplatz. C5

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„Komm’se ran, jetzt fängt dit Theater an!“ So Die Bühne in der City West ist für zahlreiche begrüßt Marga Bach ihr Publikum im MundartFilm- und Fernsehschauspieler, aber auch Musiker und Comedy-Theater. Die Kabarettistin und und Entertainer zur zweiten Heimat geworden.

Sängerin gründete das Theater „Berliner Trotz des Umzuges in das Übergangsquartier Schnauze“, damit der Berliner Dialekt im Schillertheater bleibt die Komödie am nicht ausstirbt. Jeder, der den frechen Kurfürstendamm eines der Dialekt liebt, niveauvollsten Unterhaltungstheater hat hier was zu Lachen. www.

Deutschlands. berliner-schnauze-theater.com. www.komoedie-berlin.de In Zukunft wird alles Karl-Marx-Allee 133.

Bismarckstraße 110. besser oder vielleicht auch T: 030 42020434. U Weberwiese.

T: 030 88591188. U Ernst-Reuter-

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Distel Seit 65 Jahren zeigt das in Deutschland legendäre Kabarett-Theater politische Satire. Die Bühne befindet sich im Vorderhaus des Admiralspalastes, das Publikum setzt sich aus allen Gesellschaftsschichten zusammen. www.distel-berlin.de. Friedrichstraße 101.

T: 030 2044704. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Grips Theater Politische Themen im Kinder- und Jugendtheater?

Das Grips Theater setzt diese gekonnt um.

Seit vielen Jahren schon werden hier aus den Problemen, Themen und Bedürfnissen des jungen Publikums Geschichten entwickelt. Die Komödien werden oft musikalisch begleitet und sollen

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Menschen zusammenkommen – unabhängig von ihrer Herkunft, Religion und Identität. Ziel ist es, im Zusammentreffen soziale wie kulturelle Konflikte sowie politische und ökonomische Krisen zu reflektieren. Alle Inszenierungen sind ab der zweiten Vorstellung mit englischen Übertiteln versehen. www.gorki.de.

Am Festungsgraben 2.

T: 030 20221115. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Monbijou-Theater In drei Holzhütten mit rustikalem Charme werden im Winter Märchenklassiker der Gebrüder Grimm und Hans Christian Andersen für die ganze Familie aufgeführt. Nach der Vorstellung kann man in der hauseignen Pizzeria essen und sich mit einem heißen Getränk aufwärmen. Im Sommer wird im Amphitheater unter freiem Himmel das Publikum zum Lachen gebracht. www.monbijou-theater.de.

Monbijoustraße 3. T: 030 288866999.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neuköllner Oper Der Komponist und Kirchenmusiker Winfried Radeke gründete 1973 die Neuköllner Oper mit

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Pick up a copy of Where Paris from your hotel concierge

Hüpftiraden Es beginnt mit einer harmlos witzigen Küchenszene und steigert sich dann bald in Diskussionen darüber, ob sich die Essenz des Hegelschen Gesamtwerkes in eine SMS packen lässt – so wohl nur in den KänguruChroniken anzutreffen. Die drei Bände des Berliner Autors Marc-Uwe Kling haben das Prädikat „Kult“ mehr als verdient und sind im Mai auf der Bühne des Kleinen Theaters am Südwestkorso zu sehen. www.kleines-theater.de, Aufführungen am 5. und am 30. Mai.

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nicht? Das klärt das DistelPlatz. B3 Ensemble auf bewährt bissige Art im Stück Weltretten für Maxim Gorki Theater Anfänger vom 27.

In diesem international bis 31. Mai. ausgerichteten Haus sollen

Wirft man einen Blick auf den Spielplan des Deutschen Theaters, fallen sofort Größen wie Brecht und Goethe ins Auge. Neben Klassikern findet hier auch zeitgenössisches Autorentheater den Weg auf die Bühne. Die Stücke werden auf drei Bühnen inszeniert: Im Großen Haus, im Kammerspiel sowie in der Blackbox im Foyer. www.deutschestheater.de. Schumannstraße 13A. T: 030 28441225. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

COURTESY OF KLEINES THEATER

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der Absicht, ernsthafte Unterhaltung mit gutem Humor zu verbinden. Von der Barockoper bis zum Musical, von der Operette hin zum experimentellen Musiktheater ist alles dabei. Mit 160 Uraufführungen in nur 36 Jahren ist es das produktivste Musiktheater Europas. www.neukoellneroper.de.

Karl-Marx-Straße 131-133.

T: 030 68890777. U Karl-Marx-Straße.

U Rathaus Neukölln. Außerhalb der Karte.

Renaissance Theater Das Renaissance Theater ist das einzige vollständig erhaltene Art-Déco-Theater Europas und steht daher unter Denkmalschutz. Autoren wie Bertolt Brecht oder Arnolt Bronnen fielen hier durch ihre provokanten Stücke auf. Aber auch internationale Autoren feiern in diesem Theater die Uraufführungen ihrer Werke. www. renaissance-theater.de. Knesebeckstraße 100.

T: 030 3159730. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Schaubude Berlin Zu alt fürs Puppentheater? Definitiv nicht, denn in der Schaubude Berlin werden Stücke des Puppen-, Figuren- und Objekttheaters für jedes Alter gespielt. Um dieses Genre der Theaterkunst den Kindern näher zu bringen, kooperiert die Schaubude mit Schulen und Kitas. www.schaubude.berlin. Greifswalder Straße 81-84.

T: 030 4234314. S Greifswalder Straße. G1

Theater an der Parkaue Das Repertoire des Theaters richtet sich an Kinder, Jugendliche, Schulklassen, junge Erwachsene sowie Familien. Gezeigt werden nicht nur Märchen, bekannte Stücke oder Klassiker, sondern das Theater bietet auch Workshops, Theaterclubs oder eine jährlich stattfindende Winterakademie an. www.parkaue.de. Parkaue 29. T: 030 55775252.

S+U Frankfurter Allee.

Kunze. Auch Konzerte und Lesungen sind fester Bestandteil des Programms. www.wuehlmaeuse. de. Pommernallee 2-4. T: 030 30673011.

U Theodor-Heuss-Platz. A1

Hanks, Jodie Foster oder James Stewart bei Premierenfeiern über den roten Teppich flanieren. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergstraße 29A. T 0180 5222966. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz

VERANSTALTUNGSORTE

In dem alten Kinogebäude am Kurfürstendamm werden moderne Klassiker inszeniert, die das Publikum zum Nachdenken anregen. Für internationale Gäste werden auch Stücke mit englischen und französischen Übertiteln gespielt. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153.

T: 030 890023. U Adenauerplatz. C4

KINOS Astor Film Lounge Ein Kino mit Klasse. Hier treffen moderne Stile und Art Déco aufeinander. Versinken Sie in bequemen Ledersesseln und lassen sich vom exzellenten Kinoprogramm und Service verwöhnen. www.berlin.astor-filmlounge.de. Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 8838551. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yorck Kino Das Gründungskino der Yorck-Gruppe befindet sich in Kreuzberg und repräsentiert das, wofür alle Yorck-Häuser stehen: Kino der stilvollen Art. Gezeigt werden hier nicht nur Arthousefilme und US-Produktionen, sondern vormittags laufen Kita- und Schulprogramme. Viele Filme werden auch auf Englisch gezeigt. www.yorck.de. Yorck- straße 86.

T: 030 78913240. U Mehringdamm. E4

Zoo Palast Im November 2013 wurde der restaurierte Zoo Palast wiedereröffnet und macht in sieben Sälen sowie Logen mit Bedienservice den neusten Kinofilm zu einem wunderbaren Erlebnis. Kein Wunder also, dass im Zoo Palast auch die Berlinale zuhause ist und internationale Stars wie Tom

Radialsystem Wer schon einmal über die Spree geschippert ist, kam dabei vielleicht auch am Radialsystem vorbei.

Das im Jahre 1881 erbaute Pumpwerk liegt direkt am Flussufer. Durch seine großen Fenster wird die prunkvolle Backsteingotik mit Licht geflutet.

Regelmäßig treten hier Tanz- und Gesangsensembles auf. www.radialsystem.de.

Holzmarktstraße 33. T: 030 28878850. S Berlin Ostbahnhof. G3

Hebbel am Ufer In den drei Häusern HAU1, HAU2 und HAU3 präsentiert das Hebbel am Ufer Tanz, Theater und Performances. Sie verfügen über kein eigenes Ensemble, sondern stellen die Spielstätten für Festivals, Gastspiele und Koproduktionen zur Verfügung. Dabei sind bildende Kunst, Musik und theoretische Debatten feste Bestandteile des Programms. www.hebel-am-ufer.de.

Stresemannstraße 29. T: 030 25900427.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Heimathafen Neukölln Einfach, direkt und für jeden zugänglich – so das Selbstverständnis des Volkstheaters. Die Leitung bringt unter dem Motto „Wir sind Volkstheater“ neuinszenierte Stücke von Alt-Berlinern in Form von Poetry-Slams, Lesungen, Konzerten und vielem mehr auf die Bühne. Ein Crossover der Genres, Kulturen und Stile. www.heimathafenneukoelln.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 141.

T: 030 56821333. U Karl-Marx-Straße.

Außerhalb der Karte.

Tipi am Kanzleramt Das große Zelt im Tiergarten bietet ein umfangreiches Programm an Musicals, Magie, Kabarett, Tanz und Theater in Verbindung mit der hauseigenen, anspruchsvollen Küche. Ein Genuss für Augen, Ohren und Gaumen! Viele der Shows sind jedoch nur auf Deutsch. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T:030 39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne Die Volksbühne vereint bildende Kunst, digitale Kultur, Kino, Musik, Performance, Tanz und Theater in einem Haus. Das durch den Zweiten Weltkrieg fast vollständig zerstörte Theater wurde zu Beginn der 1950er Jahre wieder aufgebaut.

Einige Stücke gibt es mit englischen Übertiteln. www.volksbuehne.berlin. Linienstraße 227.

T: 030 24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Die Wühlmäuse Wer die Wühlmäuse besucht, geht mit einem Muskelkater vom Lachen hinaus. Das 1960 von Dieter Hallervorden gegründete Kabarett-Theater verzeichnet regelmäßigen Bühnenbesuch von Dieter Nuhr, Ingo Appelt oder Heinz Rudolf

HIGHLIGHT

AB 6. MAI

Fein gepikst

Margie Plenzkow aus Berlin-Mitte hat es nicht leicht: immer knapp bei Kasse, andere mischen sich in ihr Leben ein – und jetzt ist noch die Wohnung weg. Auf Sohn Kevin ist kein Verlass, also gründet Margie erst einmal ihren eigenen Staat. Das ruft den Geheimdienst auf den Plan und sogar Trump kommt zu Besuch … bissig, kurzweilig, politisch. Zwei Zimmer, Küche: Staat! in der Distel. www.distel-berlin.de, Aufführungen vom 6. bis 11. Mai

KABARETT THETAER_DISTEL GENAUERHINSEHEN 3149 JAEGER DOLEYS WIRNITZER LUX NITZEL RUDOLPH HARTER MUELLER ©GONZ.

Theater unterm Dach Zusammen mit der Wabe befindet sich das Theater unterm Dach im kulturellen Zentrum des Ernst-Thälmann-Parks. Sowohl etablierte Regisseure sowie Stücke von Nachwuchskünstlern werden hier ins Programm aufgenommen.

Professionalität und Themenoffenheit sind der Leitsatz der Spielstätte. www.theateruntermdachberlin.de. Danziger Straße 101.

T: 030 902953817. S Greifswalder Straße. G1

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SHOPPING

Goodbye To A Fashion Legend

© ISTOCK.

C

alled “the Emperor” by fashion insiders, Karl Lagerfeld’s death in February was met with an outpouring of grief from the fashion world he had presided over for so many years. After all, the German couturier was one of the world’s most iconic designers and the heart of not just one, but three fashion houses. His signature white ponytail and dark glasses made him an instantly recognizable figure around the globe. In 1965 he began his lifetime collaboration with Italian fashion house Fendi, renowned for fur and leather goods. But it was his three-decades-long role as the artistic director for Parisian label Chanel, which truly thrust him into the limelight as the fashion icon we know today. Lagerfeld

took over Chanel in 1983 to bring life back into the company after the death of founder Coco Chanel a decade prior, and he more than succeeded. Yet, this success wasn’t enough for him. In 1984 Lagerfeld launched his own eponymous fashion brand focusing on “intellectual sexiness.” But hey, what else do you expect from a man who once said “anyone who wears jogging pants has lost control of their life?” Throughout his career he had also been accused of being fat-phobic and opposing the #MeToo movement, nonetheless there is no doubt Karl Lagerfeld was one of the industry’s most prolific figures who made an impact right up until his death at age 85. Check out his wares at the Fendi counters at luxury department store KaDeWe (Tauentzienstr. 21-24), Chanel Berlin (Kurfürstendamm 188-189), and Karl Lagerfeld (Friedrichstr. 172).

ANNABELLE MALLIA

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THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin’s west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Galeria Kaufhof One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children’s world and expansive gourmet section, there’s truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette

www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects.

Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

FASHION

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens)

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you’re short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr.

21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights.

Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of “non-colors” such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Boggi Milano

Blue Tomato No matter if you’re cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder’s

Berlin Is Buzzing Without bees we wouldn’t have most of the food we eat. Sadly, in the last ten years we have lost 30% of our bees due to disease and increased use of pesticides. Berlin’s urban beekeepers and organizations such as Berlin Summt! and Stadtbienen are trying to save our bees by bringing the fuzzy, busy insects and their hives into the city and encouraging anyone with a garden or even a balcony to host a colony. It turns out bees fare wonderfully in urban environments where there is a great diversity of flowers and fewer pesticides than on farms. This also means that the honey from urban bees offers a broader range of flavors and often smells like fresh flowers – try Berliner Honig, found in most supermarkets around town and take it home as a souvenir.

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

SHOPPING

Add some atmosphere to your home with a handmade candle from Garden State Candles. www.gardenstatecandles.com

paradise. www.blue-tomato.com.

Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Gobi Cashmere

Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.

Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58.

T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wellensteyn

The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/.

Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-ofa-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de.

Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933.

S Savignyplatz. B4

The Ku'damm was West Berlin's most important shopping strip during the Cold War.

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Wormland

This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty.

Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin.

Direct entrance from Voßstraße.

T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world’s top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

T: 0800.3300996.

U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www.boots-andshoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030.92031876.

S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12.

T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.wheretraveler.com 39

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1 3 2

BLACK &

WHITE WHITE

They say it’s not all black or white.

But sometimes it is.

BY RUNQI LIN

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6

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1. Mykita, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6.

2–6. Attilio Giusti Leombruni, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

7. Swarovski, Boulevard Berlin, Schloßstr. 7–10.

8. Hunter, Tatem, Oranienburger Str. 32.

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SHOPPING www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer

EXPLORE ALEX A SHOPPING CENTER

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

A L E X A AT A L E X A N D E R P L AT Z M O - SA 1 0 a m - 9 p m NEW FOOD COURT

JEWELRY & WATCHES

MORE THAN 170 SHOPS, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check out their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168.

T: 030.8815671.

U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon

HOME DÉCOR bauhaus-shop The Bauhaus school of the 1920s focused on functional and iconic design, redefining artistic creativity and manufacturing. Here you can discover a range of Bauhaus objects and products by the

©ISTOCK

An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop’s selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

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SIZING GUIDE SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

US

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

6 8 10 12 14 16

XS S M L

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

8 9 10 11 12 13

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

Dress by Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Pl. 12.

Hat by AGL, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr.

21–24.

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

34 36 38 40 42 44

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

designers of the time. Located in the temporary bauhaus-archiv in Charlottenburg. www.bauhausshop.de. Knesebeckstr. 1–2. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

and baby items for the everyday and special occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com.

Kurfürstendamm 51. T: 030.88724777.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Läderach Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques: in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße.

Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679.

G4 Friedrichstr. 81. T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com. C3

Marheineke Markthalle

These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com.

Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 8am–6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de.

Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Yves Delorme

Markthalle Neun

Pylones

Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brandnew set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware

One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie

events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de.

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de.

Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080.

U Französische Straße. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17.

T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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TOP PICK

PARFUMSALON

YVES DELORME

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Since 1845, Yves Delorme has been producing exclusive bedlinen sets and elegant fabrics for the home. Visit their Ku’damm boutique and find sheets made with the best Egyptian cotton, lingerie from Paris, stylish accessories for the home, and much more. Check out the tempting designs and the irresistible details of this luxury brand, which is also a member of the Comité Colbert. Bienvenue chez.. Yves Delorme.

Kurfürstendamm 51

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GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE

The church’s bombed-out tower was restored to its present state in 1957 and has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since. The old church’s ruins host an exhibition documenting the cathedral’s former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the air raids.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030 2185023 www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de S+U Zoologischer Garten www.wheretraveler.com 43

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Promobo MÜHLE Store Berlin Home on earth Trippen

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The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

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Codello

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Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Rich & Royal

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Esprit

Jack & Jones

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NYX PROFESSIONAL

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Foot Locker

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Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY JEANS Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET Vans VERO MODA

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Lief!

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Barbieri

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Look 54

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 45

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de

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Pick up a copy of Where Berlin from your hotel concierge

N DE N

Wempe Montblanc BABOR

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This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

SP RE E AM WE ID EN DA MM

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DINING

This photo: Gallery Restaurant; Inset, below: tapas at Bar Raval.

THIS PHOTO: GALLERY RESTAURANT; INSET, BELOW: TAPAS AT BAR RAVAL.

Big Idea: Small Plates

P

ity the Spanish, whose great conceptual contribution to world food – the tapa – has been stolen by pretty much everyone. Perhaps it was inevitable, as the idea is simple and brilliant: small plates of food to share and enjoy with drinks. When done in quantity with a big group, the experience is even better because everyone gets to try more dishes.

Berlin has its share of traditional Spanish tapas restaurants, including a couple of gems in Kreuzberg. Bar Raval, co-owned by locally based actor Daniel Brühl (of Captain America: Civil War fame), serves a broad range of homestyle dishes inspired by different regions of Spain (www. barraval.de). Or try Picoteo, which is cozy and unpretentious, and adds touches of

Portuguese to the cuisine and the wine list (www. picoteo.de).

For travelers who want to stick to German cuisine while here in the capital: yes, German tapas are a thing, and more, a great way to sample a bunch of German flavors in one go. A delicious place to dive in is Wilhelm Hoeck, a 125-year-old Charlottenburg pub that has a tasting menu of three, six, or nine small dishes, including local-style meatballs, cabbage rolls, and pickled mackerel in cream sauce (www.wilhelmhoeck.de). In Prenzlauer Berg, Leibhaftig has its own brand of beer – Wanke, brewed

in Brandenburg – and a range of Bavarian tapas, like Weisswurst with sweet mustard and pretzel dumplings (www.leibhaftig.com).

For a more modern take, the Gallery restaurant at Mercedes Platz serves tapas based on local ingredients, including a riff on Berliner currywurst made from apple-fed pork (www.mercedes-platz.de).

A visit to any of these restaurants, or even better – all of them, will leave you not only happily satiated but with bragging rights: you are now an expert in German cuisine, and in so short a time!

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Berlin's concierge association, Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin’s Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com.

Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620.

S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com.

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the

menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€.

Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a.

T: 030.20059500.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17.

T: 030 319881860.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone’s throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30.

T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

While Berlin offers many culinary wonders, fish lovers have to face the fact that we are quite far from any ocean. Thankfully there are a few restaurants that overcome distance and still do seafood proud, chief among them being Seaside. The concept is straightforward: Pick a starter (the ceviche is excellent) and a good wine and then head to the fish counter where you will be talked through a selection of crustaceans and saltwater fish that changes daily. Pick out a few that catch your eye. The waiter will help you choose the right sauce and side dishes to complement your choice, and your seafood will be cooked to perfection on the grill. The idea is simple, yet delicious, and it brings the ocean a bit closer than before. Mohrenstraße 17. www.seaside-fish.com

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300.

U Prinzenstraße. E4

COURTESY OF SEASIDE RESTAURANT.

A Salty Exception

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna’s famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850.

U Französische Straße. E3

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DINING Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

Mercedes-Benz Arena, it’s the perfect bite before your show. Daily L&D. www.mercedes-platz.de.

Mühlenstr. 13-19. T: 030 29772060.

S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288.

S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4.

T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

The Gallery

Maximilians

German. Chef Lena König from TV show “The

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy

Taste” combines traditional German cuisine with the culinary diversity of Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, specializing in German tapas made from regional ingredients. Located at Mercedes Platz, Berlin’s new “party mile” built around the existing

Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on

The Grand

tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de.

Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-

Open daily Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 15.00 CET 19.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 19.00 - 23.00 CET

Make your Reservation Tel. 030/ 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Restaurant | Bar | Club | Event

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DINING weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10.

T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

ITALIAN Barist

Modern Hellenic dishes

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco

Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€.

Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828.

U Französische Straße. E3

Café Aroma Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite,

this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere.

The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8.

T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20.

T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

I Due Forni

DISCOVER BERLIN’S MOST DELICIOUS RESTAURANTS

Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12.

T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish

dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere.

Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105.

T: 030.82409600.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Grand Rocka

®

TRAVELERS KNOW WHERE

International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de.

Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Kantine Deluxe International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the

city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2.

T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3.

T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls.

Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€.

Mon–Sat B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini.

Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455.

S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rio GrandeAme International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de.

May-Ayim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981.

Schlesisches Tor. G4

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de.

Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Z Modern Greek There’s nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece’s traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12.

T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32.

T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€.

Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

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www.spindlerklatt.com

Reservation + 49 [0] 30 319 88 18 60

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NIGHTLIFE

A

mong all the flavors of Germany that can be sampled in Berlin, few are more pleasant than wine flowing like the Rhine in the city’s southwest corner.

The Rheingauer Weinbrunnen wine festival runs from mid-May to early September on flowery Rüdesheimer Platz.

What began as a small celebration 50 years ago is now a four-month-long gathering, serene but sociable, where visitors can sample one region’s wine and picnic with friends and neighbors.

The word Weinbrunnen literally translates to “well of wine,” and that’s not an

exaggeration: at the festival, there is a seemingly endless source of delicious wines from the Rheingau, which is one of Germany’s 13 designated wine regions. The area’s trellis-covered slopes follow a 50-kilometer stretch of the Rhine as it bends westward past Mainz. This is the region most concerned with Riesling: more than three-fourths of Rheingau vines produce Riesling grapes, and the neighborhood of Berlin that hosts this event has connections to the region.

Originally named the Rheingauviertel, this neighborhood was mostly built after the turn of the 20th century, until the First World War interrupted construction.

Rüdesheimer Platz, named for a Rheingau

wine-making town, is one of Berlin’s prettiest public squares. In fact, Rüdesheimer Strasse was recently named one of 12 favorite streets in Europe by the New York Times.

So if you are looking for some local flavor, check out this neighborhood affair and discover one of Berlin’s greener, quieter spots. This year’s Weinbrunnen is expected to begin Friday, 17 May, and run through the first week of September, daily from 3 to 9:30pm.

JOE STANGE

XXXXXXXXX

Wellspring Of Wine

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de.

Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649.

U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9.

T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homey cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

PREVIOUS PAGE: WINE AND CHEESE: ISTOCK; RÜDESHEIMER PLATZ: COURTESY OF RHEINGAUER WEINBRUNNEN. THIS PAGE: ISTOCK.

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options.

Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de.

Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CLUBS Traffic Club A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial.

Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com.

Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend

world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3.

T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4.

T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avant-garde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton.

Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57.

T: 030.20295421.

U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11.

T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

Hit the bar at Gallery Rooftop T: 030.27582070.

Bar, located inside Hotel S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

A GLASS OF COGNAC?

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr.

177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the

Indigo on Mühlenstr. 13 in Friedrichshain.

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest bouncers too.

Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, with a carnival-like atmosphere.

Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River.

Tight entry. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de.

Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of a club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de.

Danziger Str. 1. F1

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden.

24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com.

Fasanenstr. 9-10.

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ESSENTIALS Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 to Hauptbahnhof and and S45 to Südkreuz run every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr.

Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy

a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive.

Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn. de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel.

Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices.

THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm.

A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

© ISTOCK

USEFUL INFORMATION

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MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 27. Februar 2019 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) BVG-016.19

ESSENTIALS

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My

PERFECT DAY Anatol Kotte PHOTOGRAPHER A photographer and art director, Anatol Kotte has photographed Angela Merkel, Jeff Goldblum, Rihanna, and many other celebrities.

Check out his work on www. anatolkotte.com, or visit his gallery CAPITIS at Kronenstr. 71.

Clockwise from this image: Sienna Miller in a portrait by Anatol Kotte; Cafe Einstein Stammhaus; Café am neuen See; Anatol Kotte.

Your subjects seem unguarded, totally themselves. How do you create a setting that fosters openness?

It really depends on who I‘m with and what they‘re like. Sometimes I talk a lot, and sometimes I don‘t talk at all. Let a vacuum form, and amazing things can happen.

How does Berlin influence your work?

First and foremost, the encounters that take place in Berlin inspire me. My studio with the gallery attracts the most diverse people and is a place where you can exchange ideas about photography in all its variations.

Can you recommend some local galleries for contemporary photography?

C/O Berlin, of course. They always get the mix right and often have a surprise ready. Robert Morat, the gallery, does great things. And the Helmut Newton Foundation. But also so many smaller galleries, like the Galerie für moderne Fotografie, are also presenting exciting shows.

Which part of the city do you call home, and what are your favorite things about it?

My “base“ was always Charlottenburg, but because my studio is now in Mitte, I‘ve moved everything there: My apartment is just behind Checkpoint Charlie. I have “both worlds“ at

my doorstep, so to speak. It all depends on my mood, whether I want normal or posh.

Paul-Lincke Ufer and all of the Kreuzberg canals offer so much. The classic Borchardt restaurant and Sale e Tabacchi are near my studio, and you can definitely rely on those two. I really enjoy going to Freundschaft on the corner of Mittelstrasse and Charlottenstrasse. Beautiful wines, little delicacies, and a pleasant atmosphere with vinyl playing in the background.

When you have friends or family come to visit, where in the city do you take them?

To the water! In summer and also in winter, we definitely go to one of the lakes, to Cafe am Neuen See in the Tiergarten or Lietzensee for example, or to the Havel. With kids, the Natural History Museum is cool.

Say you have the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would you do?

First, have breakfast, maybe at Café Einstein Stammhaus. Then I’d go on a bike tour or a run, if I‘m in the mood. You can always discover something new that way. Or I’d go to an exhibition, for example at the MartinGropius-Bau. After that I’d go back to CAPITIS to work on something that has been left behind. Then I’d go to the movies at Filmkunst 66. It‘s a cool theater I used to go to with my grandmother. It’s been an indie art house since 1971. But before the film, I’d go to Cafe Savigny for a snack, or to Paris Bar to watch high society in action.

ANATOL KOTTE HAMBURG 2017 COPYRIGHT CHRISTINE ROGGE; SIENNA MILLER, BERLIN 2017, © ANATOL KOTTE. CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE; CAFE EINSTEIN STAMMHAUS, COURTESY OF CAFE EINSTEIN STAMMHAUS.

What draws your eye as a photographer when you walk around Berlin?

The scars. In the historical sense. You encounter signs of the past everywhere. In the West, these signs are disappearing or being erased by too much renovation. Berlin as a walled city was unique, like a giant biotope. I‘m always looking for the remnants.

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2019

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