Where Magazine Berlin Feb 2019

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

FEBRUARY 2019

LOVE LOVE LOVE Gorgeous views, marvelous music, and a touch of 1920s charm

PLUS BERLIN ICONS BEST KOREAN FOOD BERLINALE GUIDE

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BEST OF SHOPPING WITH THE LARGEST VARIETY OF LIFESTYLE SHOPS

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Berlin

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CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

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6 Editor’s Note

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8 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

A fresh bouquet of flowers tops the lovebird gift chart yet again!

Highlights of the month, including the Berlin Independent Film Festival, Tanzolymp, and Holiday on Ice.

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SIGHTSEEING

A visit to Scheunenviertel, the Jewish quarter of yesteryear.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Bauhaus movement celebrates its 100th anniversary.

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DINING

A guide to Korean restaurants for the kimchi-obsessed.

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The Berlinale: red carpets, golden bears, and the world's best films.

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58 My Berlin Francesco Meneghini Tidbits about Berlin from an Italian filmmaker.

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For transportation to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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Famous Berliners who have helped to define the city.

New wardrobe items to put you in the mood for romance.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

16 Local Heroes

BY THE WHERE TEAM

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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NIGHTLIFE

Drinking with a view.

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

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HOLIDAY ON ICE: COURTESY OF HOLIDAY ON ICE; BODY FLYING: ©ISTOCK; SHOES BY UNÜTZER; DAVID BOWIE: PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN ROWLANDS.

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EDITORIAL

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Joe Stange, Serene Tseng.

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ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN Take a trip back to the divided city of Berlin in the 1980s and discover the monumental panorama DIE MAUER

by Yadegar Asisi – a lifesize portrayal in scale 1:1, showing the everyday life next to the Berlin Wall.

Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstraße 205 10117 Berlin T 0341.35 55 34-0 U-Bahnhof Kochstraße asisi.de | die-mauer.de WB ASISI.indd 1

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

All My Loving In the middle of the Berlin winter, there’s nothing like the warmth of love to add color and texture to our days. This is why I always like the February issue of Where Berlin: we get to write about Valentine's Day! Truth be told, I don't think you need a day for love when you can love all year long, but Valentine's Day is a nice yearly excuse to reflect upon the different kinds of love.

This month, we had fun researching exciting adventures for two (p. 12–14): if you are in town with your loved one, you might want to take a cooking class together, create perfumes for each other, sing a duet at a karaoke bar, or laugh together at a stand-up comedy show. If you are in the mood for dancing, we asked a 1920s expert to share her insider's knowledge on the city's best spots to relive that fabulous era, from all-night swing parties to theaters turned dance halls.

With lots of love,

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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LD A R O F R R E E T T WA FOR WA ALD

VIVA CON AGUA is an international network supDorting waterprojects in Nepal, Ethiopia, Uganda and other countries.

Join the movement by drinking VIVA CON AGUA mineralwater and SUPDORT CLEAN DRINKING WATER worldwide! wDw.vivaconagua.org WB VIVA CON AGUA.indd 1

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HOT

DATES February is a fabulous month to be in Berlin. From dance festivals to experimental music concerts and lots of new movies, this month is filled with exciting events.

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CTM FESTIVAL UNTIL SUNDAY

Take a deep breath and let the music flow through you! The CTM Festival for Adventurous Music and Art focuses on experimental electronic music and plays out across some of Berlin’s most standout cultural and nightlife venues, including HAU Hebbel am Ufer and Berghain. This year’s “Persistence” theme befits the festival’s 20th birthday, but also considers what is worthy of our perseverance. www.ctm-festival.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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OTTO MUELLER LAST CHANCE: ALL MONTH

The former Brücke artist and expressionist Otto Mueller had an enormous influence on 20th-century European art, and the exhibition Painter. Mentor. Magician. Otto Mueller and his Network in Wrocław is the first to spotlight his importance. Mainly focusing on modernist painting from his time teaching at the State Academy of Arts and Crafts in Wrocław (Poland), the exhibit also features guest work that highlights intercultural similarities and differences in the German-Polish context. Catch it at Hamburger Bahnhof before it closes at the end of the month. www.smb.museum

14 TANZOLYMP

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BERLIN INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL FROM THURSDAY

It's not as glamorous as the Berlinale, FROM THURSDAY but it's still worthy of a large bag of popcorn!

Held in Berlin every year to celebrate dance "as a The BIFF champions low-budget filmmaking in global language," this international dance festival Europe by giving new directors the gives around 1000 young talents the opportunity opportunity to network and showcase their to take part in master classes and competitions, or work. The exciting five-day program of films simply to share their love of dancing. The includes several categories, from documentary crowning event, featuring the best performances, and horror to animation and music videos. All is always the Final Gala, taking place at the Theater screenings take place at the Babylon cinema in des Westens on 18 February.

Mitte, and are screened either in English or www.tanzolymp.com with English subtitles. www.berlinfest.com www.wheretraveler.com 9

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AUGUST T FEBRUARY

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HOT DATES

the last few days of the Transmediale 1 Catch festival for digital culture, on until Sunday. greenhouses of the Botanical Garden 2 The heat up with the Tropische Nächte concerts. hockey time: the local Eisbären play the 3 It's Augsburg Panthers at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

HOLIDAY ON ICE FROM THURSDAY

In one cataclysmic night, the gods sent a battalion of fire and earthquakes so intense that the utopian kingdom of Atlantis sank deep into the ocean… so the myth goes. Now the myth comes alive at the Holiday On Ice – Atlantis show at Tempodrom! Expect technically perfect figure skating, breathtaking aerial acrobatics, fantastic costumes, and beautiful water scenes. www.tempodrom.de

a stroll in Tiergarten, warm up by the 4 After fireplace in the park's Café am neuen See. rock star Steven Wilson stops at 5 Prog Tempodrom on his To The Bone tour. an afternoon Espresso Concert at 6 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." camera... action! The star-studded 7 Lights...

Berlinale film festival begins today. rockers The Wombats play their 8 Liverpool newest album at Columbiahalle tonight.

Staatsballett dances La Bayadère, a 9 The lesser-known classic by Marius Petipa. the final day of the free Bel Canto 10 Visit symposium on vocal music at Deutsche Oper. cutting-edge sounds at Experimontag 11 Hear night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar.

OZZY OSBOURNE

of Home, the new dance show from 12 Heartbeat the Riverdance producers, is at Tempodrom.

TUESDAY

Known as The Prince of Darkness and Godfather of Heavy Metal, Ozzy Osbourne has announced his farewell tour No More Tours 2 – having returned after already saying goodbye in 1992. At the Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin, the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee will be celebrating more than five decades as a performer, both as a solo artist and lead singer of Black Sabbath. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

beer fans: check out the range of unique 13 Craft brews at Neukölln's Muted Horn bar. on international delicacies at the Street 14 Feast Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

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TEARS FOR FEARS SATURDAY

Not only have these British synth-pop legends gathered their biggest hits, such as the melancholic Mad World and signature song Shout, and put them on their latest best-of album Rule The World. As an encore, Roland Orzabal and Curt Smith have also recorded two new songs – their first original material since 2004. They'll be performing them all at Tempodrom as part of their Rule The World Tour. www.tempodrom.de

in a show of Rossini's famed opera 15 Take buffa, The Barber of Seville, at Staatsoper. just an actor: David Duchovny performs 16 Not his self-written songs at ASTRA Kulturhaus. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 17 For Tiergarten's Straße der 17. Juni is a must. the Botanical Garden to admire lotus 18 Visit blooms in the newly reopened Victoriahaus.

Osbourne, The Prince of Darkness, brings 19 Ozzy his metal music to Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Swedish songstress Neneh 20 Multitalented Cherry performs live at Festsaal Kreuzberg. whole family will love the Holiday on 21 The Ice – Atlantis show at Tempodrom. daring motocross stunts at the Night 22 Admire of the Jumps show at Mercedes-Benz Arena. to the Staatsoper for Mozart's playful 23 Head and fanciful opera The Magic Flute.

Matinee show at Konzerthaus with 24 Mozart coffee, croissants, and even babysitting. the soulful electronic & trip hop group 25 See known as Morcheeba in concert at Huxley's. a musical lunch break at the 26 Take Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. to the Neues Museum to admire the bust 27 Go of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt. hop icon Nicki Minaj will command the 28 Hip stage at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

See listings for addresses and more info.

OZZY OSBOURNE: © OZZY OSBOURNE; CTM: ERWAN KERAVEC, SONNEURS CTM 2019; HOLIDAY ON ICE: COURTESY OF HOLIDAY ON ICE; MUELLER: ALEXANDER KANOLDT OLEVANO II, 1925. ÖL AUF LEINWAND, 61,5 X 82,4 CM. GALERIE BERINSON, BERLIN FOTO: FRIEDHELM HOFFMANN, BERLIN; TANZOLYMP: COURTESY OF TANZOLYMP; TEARS FOR FEARS: PHOTO BY JAKE WALTERS.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history.

Berlin has a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity. The German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics.

BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra.

The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg. THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“

“HEROES” 1977 Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios (p. 34) window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin.

THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was

released on 1977’s Lust For Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz.

HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“ ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as

“We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time.

CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity.

Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.”

A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick In the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former noman’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.

©ISTOCK

ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954 Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das

War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute.

In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.

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WHERE NOW | ADVENTURES FOR TWO

My FUNNY VALE NT INE

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reality, escape rooms are 100% fun. You’ll have just 60 minutes to puzzle, riddle, and maneuver your way out of the locked room using only your combined wits and a few cryptic clues. Berlin is home to a variety of escape rooms designed around myriad themes. The Room (www.the-room-berlin. com) excels at historic scenarios, challenging you to find a way to escape East Berlin, for example, while Mission Accepted (www. mission-accepted.de) gets experimental with surreal and futuristic room designs.

yourselves in 3D, that is. Step inside the high-tech scanning booth at 3dyourBody in the Alexa shopping mall (Grunerstr. 20, www.3dyourbody.de) and within seconds, a computer-generated model will be ready for inspection. Once you’re happy with your pose, the model will be sent off to be 3D-printed in highly realistic polymer, and ready for pickup or delivery in as little as seven days.

PLOT YOUR ESCAPE TOGETHER

IMMORTALIZE YOURSELVES TOGETHER

Being locked up in a confined space should be a grueling test for any relationship, but in

There’s no couple out there quite like you and your special someone – until you clone

It’s one of the most cliché Valentine’s gifts of all: chocolates. Too bad most of the options out there are just so... conventional. But the options are practically unlimited if you make

ho decided Valentine’s Day has to be cheesy and over the top?

Not everyone is into stereotypical versions of romance – if you were, you’d probably be spending February 14th in Paris, not Berlin. What this city does offer are plenty of opportunities to get closer to the one you love, whether it’s adventure, indulgence, or the challenge of trying something new that rocks your boat. Check out these ideas from the Where team for togetherness for two – minus the cheese.

INDULGE YOUR SWEET TOOTH TOGETHER

3D YOUR BODY: COURTESY OF 3D YOUR BODY; GOLDHAHN UND SAMPSON: COURTESY OF GOLDHAHN AND SAMPSON; EXIT ROOM: COURTESY OF THE ROOM; RITTER SPORT: COURTESY OF RITTER SCHOKO WELT;

Not-completely-romantic adventures for two, courtesy of Solveig Steinhardt and Hilda Hoy.

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VIEW OF SIEGESSÄULE, BODY FLYING, KARAOKE, OPENING IMAGE: © ISTOCK; AUFSCHNITT: COURTESY OF AUFSCHNITT; MASSAGE: PHOTO BY KATJA HARBI.

Above and left: The Room, one of Berlin’s escape rooms; A 3D reproduction by 3D Your Body. Center: A wallet shaped as an anatomical heart; a cooking class at Aufschnitt; Ritter Sport Schokowelten.

your own at the Ritter Sport Bunte SchokoWelt (Französische Str. 24, www. ritter-sport.de), choosing from the long list of add-ins at the emporium’s buffet counter.

Cram the chocolate bar of your wildest fantasies with everything from raspberry bits and cookie chunks to mini marshmallows.

PUT YOUR HEARTS TOGETHER Come February, the world fills up with red and pink hearts, symbolizing love and romance. But if your love is authentic, you don’t need an abstract representation of your most romantic organ: better to get an anatomical one, and Aufschnitt (Boxhagener Str. 32, www.aufschnitt.net) sells great and fluffy reproductions of the cardiac muscle,

complete with aorta and pulmonary arteries.

Although the store itself looks like a butcher’s shop, Aufschnitt is 100% suitable for vegetarians, as all the meat cuts are actually pillows, bags, or wallets. And if giving a heart, even in this form, is still too romantic, just go for a spleen, or a lung, or even a brain – or just a large sausage, which is great to stop cold air coming from under your beloved’s door.

Goldhahn & Sampson (www. goldhahnundsampson.de) is a favorite destination for foodies, offering a wide variety of cooking classes in addition to selling kitchen tools and premium ingredients. This month, sign up with your special someone and learn how to make Peruvian tamales and Korean barbecue.

Prefer boozing to eating? They’re offering an English-language wine workshop on 25 February.

BECOME COOKS TOGETHER

GET SMELLY TOGETHER

Nothing wrong with going out for dinner.

But learning to make a gourmet meal together (before devouring it, of course) – now that’s a gift that keeps on giving.

True love comes down to a lot of factors – including chemistry. Capture the unique scent of you and your loved one in a couples’ workshop at Frau Tonis (Zimmerstr. 13, www.wheretraveler.com 13

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WHERE NOW | ADVENTURES FOR TWO

escaping gravity. You’ll get all the required gear and training before stepping into the wind tunnel and taking flight. Both Hurricane Factory (Waßmannsdorfer Allee 3, 12529 Schönefeld, www.hurricanefactory. com) and Windobona (Landsberger Allee 268, www.windobona.berlin) offer affordable 2–6-minute packages that include a souvenir video of your flying escapade.

Clockwise from top left: Indoor skydiving; karaoke; the Siegessäule; Julie’s shiatsu workshops for couples.

SING A DUET TOGETHER

www.frau-tonis-parfum.com), a boutique perfumery that blends its own diverse scents, many of them with a unique hometown theme (“Eau de Berlin,” “Berlin Summer”). While sipping prosecco and doing plenty of sniffing, you’ll have the chance to explore your olfactory profiles and mix up your own personal perfume to perfectly match the both of you.

GET YOUR HEART RATE UP TOGETHER One of Berlin’s most iconic, towering memorials is the Siegessäule, or Victory Column, at the center of Tiergarten park, commemorating Prussia’s victory in various wars, and climbing up to the top is a rewarding experience. The 285 steps up the spiral staircase will provide a heart-thumping workout and be rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view across the park’s treetops and to the horizon, not to mention great selfie opportunities.

LAUGH OUT LOUD TOGETHER Spend an evening busting out in belly laughs and you can’t help but feel better about being alive. The Comedy Café (Roseggerstr. 17, www.comedycafeberlin. com) in Neukölln is your one-stop destination for all things funny. Not only are there English-language stand-up shows, open-mic nights, and improv jams held almost every night of the week, the Comedy Café also teaches people how to be funnier with stand-up and improv courses and workshops. Because the couple that laughs together, stays together.

FIND YOUR WINGS TOGETHER After many years of monogamy, couples often need to look for new ways to bring the thrill back into a relationship. We’re not talking about swinging. We’re talking about flying! Indoor skydiving in a vertical wind tunnel is a fun and easy way to let even the most risk-averse enjoy the soaring feeling of

Not confident about your singing voice?

Who cares? Karaoke isn’t about sounding good, it’s about having fun and letting that deep-down diva inside you out to play. If it’s too intimidating to go it alone, a Valentine’s duet is the perfect compromise. Head to Friedrichshain’s Monster Ronson’s karaoke bar (Warschauer Str. 34, www. karaokemonster.de), which has both private rooms and a public stage, plus a kooky, anything-goes vibe that is sure to dissolve all inhibitions.

UNWIND TOGETHER A professional massage can be both deeply relaxing and invigorating – but not everyone can fit regular sessions into their schedule. If you learn to massage each other, however, you can get and give massages whenever you please. Shiatsu therapist Julie Hegenbarth (www.juliehegenbarth.com) specializes in teaching couples how to use body weight to give a massage that is relaxing for both the giver and the receiver.

Check Julie’s website for dates and special workshops and book a session at her studio in Prenzlauer Berg – or even your hotel.

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Exquisitely Crafted Scents Made in Berlin

Visit our shop near Checkpoint Charlie Zimmerstr. 13 / Mo - Sa 10 - 18 h / frau-tonis-parfum.com

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LOCAL

CREDITS: MARLENE DIETRICH: DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK - MARLENE DIETRICH COLLECTION BERLIN (MDCB), BLONDE VENUS USA 1932, JOSEF VON STERNBERG, PROMOTION-FOTO; HELMUT NEWTON, SELF-PORTRAIT, MONTE CARLO 1993, COPYRIGHT HELMUT NEWTON ESTATE; DAVID BOWIE: DAVID BOWIE, PHOTO BY JOHN ROWLANDS, COURTESY OF JOHN ROWLANDS.

MARLENE DIETRICH

In her obituary, The New York Times called Marlene Dietrich “the quintessential cabaret entertainer of Weimar-era Germany,” which is fitting given her entertainment career began on the 1920s Berlin stage. Her breakthrough came with the film The Blue Angel, much of which was shot at Potsdam’s Babelsberg Studio, today Europe’s largest movie studio. On the day the film premiered in 1930, the diva left Berlin to seek out her fame in Hollywood and didn’t return until 1945, when she came to entertain the Allied troops. The actress was staunchly anti-Nazi, refusing Hitler’s offer to return earlier. She always reserved a special place in her heart for her birth town and recorded numerous songs about Berlin, including an album featuring her interpretations of popular Berliner tunes, which she considered her best musical work. Upon her death in 1992, the city of Berlin paid $5 million to secure her estate and its contents. Much of this memorabilia can be viewed at the Museum for Film and Television (Potsdamer Str. 2, www.deutsche-kinemathek. de), located a stone’s throw away from MarleneDietrich-Platz. Dietrich chose her hometown as her final resting place, three plots down from Helmut Newton at the Städtischer Friedhof III cemetery in Friedenau.

HELMUT NEWTON

Born in Berlin to a Jewish family in 1920, Helmut Newton was one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century. His glamorous, yet provocative and erotically charged photos were a mainstay of Vogue and other renowned publications and paved the way for modern fashion photography. Although he spent the majority of his life living abroad, after making his final decision to flee Nazi Germany when his father was briefly arrested on Kristallnacht, he always maintained a special relationship with his hometown. Shortly before his fatal car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, he and his wife June (alias Alice Springs) set up the Helmut Newtown Foundation in Berlin (Jebensstr. 2, www.helmutnewton.com) to which they donated all their works. The foundation is dedicated to the conservation of his and his wife’s oeuvre in dialogue with their contemporaries and showcases rotating exhibitions at the Museum of Photography – symbolically right next to Zoo station, from where Newton boarded his train to Trieste and said farewell to Berlin back in 1938. Do not miss the current exhibition Saul Leiter. David Lynch. Helmut Newton: Nudes. You can also visit the final resting place of his ashes at the Städtischer Friedhof III (Stubenrauchstr.) in Friedenau.

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN HEROES

DAVID BOWIE

Even though he spent less than three years in Berlin, David Bowie is so intrinsically tied to the city that on the day he died he was thanked by Germany for helping to bring down the Wall. Between 1976 and 1979, Bowie ran away from excess and addiction and disappeared into anonymity in Berlin, sharing a Schöneberg apartment (Hauptstr.

155) with friend and artistic collaborator Iggy Pop. The roommates would habitually lounge at café Neues Ufer next door, where you can still admire the Thin White Duke's photos on the wall. During his time in Berlin he explored a new synth-based sound, and when not finding inspiration in the city’s many dens of iniquity, Bowie could most likely be found at Hansa Studios (Köthener Str. 38, www.hansastudios. de), the recording studio where the three albums of his unofficial “Berlin trilogy” were produced. Bowie described Berlin as “the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine,” and even well after moving away from the German capital, Bowie continued to pay homage to the city, such as in his 2013 release Where Are We Now?

HEROES Annabelle Mallia delves into the lives of Berlin icons.

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WHERE NOW | BACK TO THE 1920S

STEPHANIE BÄSLACK: COURTESY OF STEPHANIE BÄSLACK; KABARETT DER NAMENLOSEN: LA PUSTRA, PHOTO BY DAGGI BINDER. WINTERGARTEN VARIETE: PHOTO BY LEO SEIDEL; BABYLON BERLIN; CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS: COURTESY OF CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS; SALLY BOWLES: COURTESY OF SALLY BOWLES.

The Where Team talked to a 1920s expert Stefanie Bäslack to find out where to get a glimpse of Berlin’s most legendary years. ith daring cabaret shows in the city’s red-light district, semi-naked dancers, men in elegant outfits smoking cigars, and a vibrant nightlife, Berlin in the 1920s was all about excess and sexual freedom. Not many traces remain of this legendary era, but its legacy is now making a comeback thanks to TV shows like Babylon Berlin, which depicts a metropolis in turmoil on the verge of radical change, and to Twenties-inspired events and places all around town such as Sally Bowles (www. sally-bowles.de), a fun Schöneberg café dedicated to the era. Stefanie Bäslack, concierge at the Hotel Zoo Berlin, knows all the best 1920s-themed parties, so we asked her a few questions.

What do you like most about the Golden Twenties?

but it also dirty and rough – just like today.

What draws people to 1920s events today, and who is invited?

The desire to dive into another era, with everything that belongs to it. A break from everyday life. Dressing up again, thinking about what you are wearing and how you are wearing it. To be able to rely on old manners, especially those of men. Switching off your mobile, of course. Wanting to concentrate on the here and now and enjoy the moment using all of the senses. The “costume” and common interest in the era make it easier to let go, to get to know new people, and to learn a new dance with them.

Where are the best parties?

There are many different events every month. The I love the live music, the strict largest and most famous Stefanie Bäslack dress code of the time, and the is Boheme Sauvage (www. dancing styles, from Charleston to boheme-sauvage.net) with a strict swing. But what I like most about this period dress code, a casino (you get 5 million is the people’s attitude toward life: enjoy and Reichsmarks at the entrance), vendor girls, celebrate the moment, inhale life as if there burlesque dancers, a little dance class at is no tomorrow. Those were hard times, and the beginning, an absinthe bar, and of people wanted to make the most of it, and course a live band. In addition to the big it’s a feeling we sometimes try to relive and balls at the Wintergarten Variete (p. 51), sympathize with today.

Meistersaal (www.meistersaal-berlin.de), or Ballhaus Berlin (www.ballhaus-berlin.

Why was Berlin so great at the time? de), smaller soirees also take place at places like Bar Hackendahl (hackendahl-berlin.

Berlin was the third-largest city in the world, de) and Heimathafen (www.heimathafenand a very modern one. Whoever wanted neukoelln.de). I also love the Burlesque to experience something new had to come Festival (in autumn) at Wintergarten, to Berlin. In his novel Berlin Alexanderplatz, Boheme Sauvage’s summer yacht trips Alfred Döblin describes Berlin as “the great along the Spree on the beautiful My whore of Babylon,” a city in which everyone Fitzgerald boat, or the Kabarett der can live out his or her desires. Berlin was Namenslosen (www.kabarettdernamenlosen. alluring, ecstatic, and offered every kind of de, next event on 1–3 March). entertainment. It was diverse and unstable,

Also, since the reopening of the Kino Delphi in Weissensee, this cinema has become the most sought-after backdrop for 1920s-themed films, events, and more.

And what about the music?

Small swing, jazz, or chanson concerts also take place regularly at Cafe Lyrik while the party series Electro Swing Revolution (www.electroswing-revolution.de) brings swing to a modern level, making it danceable for the younger ones. Here eraappropriate clothing is encouraged but not obligatory. You can buy accessories at the entrance, take short dance courses at the beginning, or watch silent movies running in the background.

What if you don’t know how to dance?

Then you should check out Swing Patrol Berlin (www.swingpatrolberlin.com).

They organize various dance courses for all, beginners and experienced dancers, with or without a partner, throughout the city and almost every day of the week, and registration is not required. They are also responsible for Monday Swing at Strandbar Mitte in summer. They organize lots of other events and are represented every year at the Carnival of Cultures. Otherwise, you can just head to the famous Clärchens Ballhaus (opened in 1913). There are swing courses every Wednesday – and the famous “Gipsy Evenings” in the marvelous Spiegelsaal are not to be missed.

Any shows you’d recommend?

Frau Luna at Tipi am Kanzleramt is on all month. Or the Moka Efti Orchestra, the original orchestra from Babylon Berlin, performing at the Festsaal Kreuzberg on 19 Mar.

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From top to bottom: Sally Bowles, Babylon cinema; Wintergarten Variete; Kabarett der Namenlosen; Clärchens Ballhaus.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Flower Power A colorful posy is enough to instantly lift Annabelle Mallia’s mood.

The global day of romance is upon us once again, and topping the gift chart for lovebirds are sweets, a romantic dinner, jewelry, perfume, and, of course, flowers. Actually, whatever the occasion, you can’t go wrong with a fresh bouquet from Berlin’s best Blumenläden.

The first flower shop in Germany to be awarded 5 stars as per the Fleurop standard is Blumen Koch (Westfälische Str. 38. www. blumen-koch.de). Inside they have created a celebratory atmosphere with, naturally, flowers as the focal point. Their stunning arrangements of blooms, leaves, sprays, and fruits, composed according to your

wishes, will take your sweetheart’s breath away.

At Marsano (Charlottenstr. 75. www. marsano-berlin.de) they believe that only with the right container can flowers unfold their full splendor and effect.

Therefore, to match their extraordinary bouquets they have a huge selection of vases in all shapes, sizes, and colors from which to choose.

Marsano Vintage right next door also offers a unique selection of contemporary furniture, lamps, and interior design objects.

Bringing the eclecticism of nature and the wild inside, "jungalow" style is in full swing at Die Palme (Stilwerk, Kantstr. 17, www.

diepalme.de). They began with lots of palm trees, but have now expanded to all sorts of unusual tropical plants and flowers, botanical walls, bonsai trees, cacti and succulents, handmade artificial plants, and much more to bestow that jungle feel onto your little love bungalow.

If the above isn't enough greenery for your Romeo, get immersed in garden culture at the Königlichen Gartenakademie (Altensteinstr.

15a, www.koenigliche-gartenakademie.de).

This time of year a large greenhouse is filled with spring bulbs, and another one is filled with an impressive selection of exotic herbs.

Onsite stores Glashaus and Manufactum offer a range of garden embellishments, home décor, and cook books, and their greenhouse café is perfect for snuggling up and sharing a delicious slice of cake before heading home for more romance.

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: © ISTOCK.

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Pre-Loved

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr.

21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects.

Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7.

T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

While there never has been one definition of fashion, Berlin certainly has its own interpretation of style. Because highquality vintage shops and flea markets are omnipresent in the city, Berliners can find anything from unique fashion pieces by top designers to second-hand essentials.

Made in Berlin This might be the most popular vintage shop in Berlin. It occupies a two-story store in Schönhauser Straße, selling vintage clothing and accessories from the past decades, mainly the '60s and '70s. Check out their varied collection of colorful costume-like clothing, daily denim jackets, and sportswear.

Neue Schönhauser Str. 19.

Mankii This store mainly sells second-hand women's clothing from luxury brands. The clothes, bags, shoes, and accessories on display are well organized by category, and are high-quality and in good condition. Items are renewed on a weekly basis here, and treasure-hunters love it!

Gormannstraße 16.

Chrome Store Located in the interesting “Kreuzkölln” neighborhood at the border between Neukölln and Kreuzberg, Chrome Store is a “modern” vintage store for both women and men. The items here are carefully selected, and most of them are rather recent, and max ten years old.

Lenaustr. 10.

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SHOPPING

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1. Liebeskind, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 2. Marciano, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 3. AGL, at FINNS, Bleibtreustr. 47. 4. Codello, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 5. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 6. Mes Demoiselles, Hotel Paris, Mulackstr. 4. 7. CLOSED, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38–50. 8. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50.

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

MATT DELUXE STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65

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Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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SHOPPING Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27.

T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you're cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

By Anne

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/.

Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61.

See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point

in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi. com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73.

T: 030.3239077. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Patrick Hellmann

sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.

Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12.

T: 030.23927186.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58.

T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Among the most successful luxury Wormland brands in the fashion world, Patrick The Ku'damm was West Berlin's most important Hellmann stands for timelessness, This men’s boutique carries the shopping strip during elegant designs, quality materials, best German and international the Cold War. and extravagant details. There brands, catering to a demanding are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, man and offering a variety of styles, Christian Dior, and Dolce from classy to casual, from business to & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4 de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.

Rebecca Store

T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41.

T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Zalando Outlet

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com.

Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique.

A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www.trueffelschweinberlin.com.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21.

T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian

The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

T: 0800.3300996.

U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print.

Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten.

C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12.

T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes,

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and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Boutique Cartier Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. www.cartier.de.

Kurfürstendamm 188–189. T: 030.8867060.

U Uhlandstraße, U Adenauerplatz. B4

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com.

Kurfürstendamm 216.

Uhlandstraße. C4

Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com.

Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049.

U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45.

T: 030.8804030.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

COURTESY OF RAUSCH SCHOKOLADEN

This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030.2290212.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168.

T: 030.8815671.

U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

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Occupying an entire corner of Mitte's grandiose Gendarmenmarkt is a piece of chocolate paradise. The Rausch Schokoladenhaus, no less than the largest chocolate emporium in the world, features three floors and 1500 sq. m. of unadulterated indulgence that will surely make a chocoholic out of anyone. The extensive offerings of the ground-floor shop include the world’s longest praline counter, with more than 200 praline types to choose from. Marvel at the towering masterpieces created out of pure chocolate, like the Brandenburg Gate, TV Tower, and the Berlin Bears, before heading upstairs to an audiovisual exhibition exploring the journey of Rausch's fine cocoa. Then take a seat at the Chocolate Cafe, serving a delectable selection of exquisite tortes and desserts from Rausch's own patisserie (plus a great view over Gendarmenmarkt). Since 1918, the Rausch vision has been to spread joy and pleasure through the most exceptional chocolates – taste the dedication with every bite.

A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon

1

Pure Chocolate Heaven

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede

gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles.

An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030 757880. www.rausch.de www.wheretraveler.com 25

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus.

Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160.

S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR bauhaus-shop The Bauhaus school of the 1920s focused on functional and iconic design, redefining artistic creativity and manufacturing. Here you can discover

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a range of Bauhaus objects and products by the designers of the time. Located in the temporary bauhaus-archiv in Charlottenburg. www.bauhausshop.de. Knesebeckstr. 1–2. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com.

Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Läderach Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques:

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße.

Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679. Friedrichstr. 81.

T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com.

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43.

T: 030.577094661.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de.

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443.

U Stadtmitte. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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PARFUMSALON This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

SHOP STOP

LÄDERACH – CHOCOLATIER SUISSE More than 80 different types of pralines and truffles, the brand’s original FreshChocolate and many more delicious treats: the Läderach product range is every chocolate fan’s dream and has the perfect premium chocolate for any occasion Tauentzienstrasse 4. T: 030 20837679 www.laederach.com U Wittenbergplatz

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TOP PICK

GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE

The church’s bombed-out tower was restored to its present state in 1957 and has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since. The old church’s ruins host an exhibition documenting the cathedral’s former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the air raids.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030 2185023 www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

More than 80 different types of pralines and truffles, the brand’s original FreshChocolate and many more delicious treats: the Läderach product range is every chocolate fan’s dream and has the perfect premium chocolate for any occasion Friedrichstrasse 181. T: 030 80492457 www.laederach.com U Stadtmitte www.wheretraveler.com 29

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MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Deichmann

Hollister

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Rich & Royal

Tezenis

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MAX & CO.

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Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

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Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

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Taschenparadies

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Vans

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Frisco Jeans

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G-Star Raw

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Cloppenburg

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Clarks Ecco

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Pepe Jeans

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Codello

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

Backlash Barbieri

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Blue Man Group Theater

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890.

U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com.

Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com.

Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Walking The Historic Jewish Quarter Centuries ago, Berlin was tiny and made up of two opposite settlements along the Spree River. It wasn’t until the Hohenzollerns made Berlin their residence that the city’s population and size began increasing. In the late 1600s, a number of Jews from Eastern Europe moved to Berlin to escape persecution and made the Scheunenviertel their home. Although the neighborhood has changed throughout the years, strolling through its alleys you can still feel the history of the old Jewish quarter.

A very representative spot in this neighborhood is the Haus Schwarzenberg at Rosenthaler Str. 39. A step inside this building is like a step into the past.

Unrenovated, vibrant, and cozy, this courtyard and its art-covered walls are home to historic landmarks like the Anne Frank

Center and Otto Weidt’s Workshop for the Blind, the latter now a museum dedicated to the deaf and blind Jews who German factory owner Otto Weidt employed and protected during WWII. Next door, at Rosenthaler Str 40, are the Hackesche Höfe.

These intricate, interconnected courtyards were built in 1906 in the Art Nouveau style, and the bold blue- and gold-tiled facades are truly breathtaking. During the early 20th century, the courtyard also housed the Jewish Girls Club and Jewish Student Canteen. After Germany’s reunification, the courtyards were restored to their former glory and now house many bars, galleries, and

theaters, including cabaret theater Chamäleon.

Around the corner on Große Hamburger Straße is the site of the Old Jewish Cemetery, destroyed during WWII. Today, a single tombstone of Jewish Enlightenment thinker Moses Mendelssohn memorializes the many Jews who rest here.

And finally, look up from where you stand, and you will see the beautiful gilded dome of the New Synagogue across the skyline. This grand, Moorish-style synagogue was built in 1866 at Oranienburger Str 28 for Berlin’s Jewish community, and it still stands today in remembrance to all the Jews that lived in Berlin, past and present.

© ISTOCK

Serene Tseng walks through courtyards and streets and learns that Berlin is a city of memory.

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SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS

both familiar and fascinating.Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

The “Alex” TV Tower

Haus der Kulturen der Welt

The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, ever since its ruins were restored to their present or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host sarcophagi containing the royal remains an exhibition of before and after photos of Hohenzollern family members. documenting its former splendor and Thanks to the church’s perfect showing the Ku’damm before the acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, bombs. Look up to admire what is the Dom is also an important To see what the Berlin left of the old mosaic. concert venue. Mon–Sat Wall really looked like, Open daily from 9am to 6pm.

9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter visit the last remaining www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom. untouched stretch at Breitscheidplatz. de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119.

Bernauer Straße.

T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Kurfürstendamm. C4

Brandenburg Gate

MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots.

U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

© ISTOCK, ASISI PANORAMA, COURTESY OF ASISI.

Gendarmenmarkt The harmonious square was named after the gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus.

In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time, Friedrich Schiller. U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere

10

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT BERLIN There are many reasons to love the German capital.

1 2 3

AUGUSTSTRASSE IN MITTE: one long art gallery.

SHOPPING AT KADEWE: the biggest department store in Europe.

THE MIX OF CULTURES: hundreds of languages and foods.

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop.

Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

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THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS: a feast of architectural styles.

THE CULTURE: three opera houses and myriad theaters, big and small.

THE CITY’S LAID-BACK NATURE: a relaxed, casual look rules.

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza, filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view

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THE SPREE RIVER and the city’s endless waterways.

THE CULINARY DIVERSITY, from antipasti to Zimtsterne.

EXPERIENCING THE CITY BY NIGHT. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac.

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SIGHTSEEING of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit.

Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de.

Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152.

U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then

delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods.

Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. S Bernauer Straße. E2

carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de.

030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Checkpoint Charlie

Holocaust Memorial

never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

Karl-Marx-Allee

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and main gateway between East and West. consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of Shortly after the Wall went up, US and equal size and varying heights, placed Soviet tanks faced each other on this on uneven ground to convey a sense spot. Today, the crossing point acts of claustrophobia and disorientation. primarily as a backdrop for tourist The Siegessäule The underground information photographs. U Kochstraße, commemorates the center provides a timeline of U Stadtmitte. E3/E4 Prusso–Danish war and a Jewish persecution. victory against France.

Accessible 24 hours a day. Free.

East Side Gallery www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

While West Berliners loved to express Cora-Berliner Straße. their creativity by drawing graffiti and T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3 painting on the Wall, East Berliners were

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase.

U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents.

Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de.

Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Fancy a swim or a dip in the hot tub? Are little ones clamoring for a slip down a slide?

Fear not! All of this is possible in Berlin’s swimming pools. The Berliner Bäder are a series of public, city-wide swimming pools where all are welcome at all skill levels and ages are welcome. Although most pools are meant for swimming laps, a few of them, known as Erlebnisbäder ("experience" pools) also offer family fun: for example, the Wellenbad on Spreewaldplatz features high waves every 15 minutes, while the pool on Hauptstraße in Schöneberg has jacuzzis, slides, outdoor areas, and warm water for the kids. For something truly beautiful, head to Stadtbad Neukölln. Built in 1910 to look like a Roman cathedral, it has imposing columns, a dome, mosaics, and a beautiful sauna area. www.berlinerbaeder.de

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on

© ISTOCK.

Summer Swimming Fun In Winter!

Built by prisoners as a model concentration camp in 1936, Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were mainly political prisoners, whereas Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” were brought here a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host a number of exhibitions about extermination methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm midOct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

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Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090.

U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and

the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games.

Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Legoland Discovery Center Everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. There are videos explaining how Lego is made, a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, a Duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. Kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test centre. Daily 10am– 6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 Dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, under-3s free). Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Sea Life, and Berlin Dungeon. www.legolanddiscoverycentre.de.

Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 01806.66690110.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de.

Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740.

Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am– 6pm from April to October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750.

S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

The best

events in town

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berlinerunterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de.

T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm.

S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de.

Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

©ISTOCK

Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

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Bauhaus, The Modern View Solveig Steinhardt celebrates 100 years of the Bauhaus.

Although it was only active for 14 years, the Bauhaus school of design has been so influential on art in Germany and globally that most of today’s architecture and design still bear its traces. Founded by Walter Gropius in 1919, the school was meant to provide functional housing by incorporating arts, crafts, and architecture. Bauhaus buildings are simple, no-frill, and highly practical. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the movement, so let’s learn more about it.

Bauhaus mainly flourished in the cities of Weimar first and Dessau later, and a trip to the latter is a must for any architecture lover. For those who don't want to make the trek, however, Bauhaus architects Bruno Taut and Martin Wagner have left an important mark here in Berlin by creating the progressive social housing projects of the White City (Schillerring 13, Reinickendorf ), and the Horseshoe Estate (Fritz-Renate-Allee 44,

Neukölln), as well as a slightly more luxurious housing complex in the middle of the Grunewald forest, called Onkel-Toms-Hütte (U Onkel-Toms-Hütte). All three complexes are UNESCO Heritage sites and deserve a visit.

When the Nazis came, however, the Bauhaus was condemned as Entartete Kunst (degenerate art) and banned, together with Cubism, Expressionism, and other forms of abstract art. Many Bauhaus architects fled to the United States, while the Jewish ones who emigrated to Israel used their knowledge and style to help build the city of Tel Aviv from scratch, making it one of the world’s important Bauhaus destinations.

To celebrate the centennial of Bauhaus, this month the Bröhan Museum of Decorative Arts (p. 39) will be examining how the movement developed and where it came from on two floors packed with furniture, art and design, metal art, and painting, while on the other side of town, the Mies van der

Rohe Haus in Hohenschönhausen (designed

by Bauhaus director Mies van Der Rohe) will be celebrating the school all year long with the exhibition Avanti-Avanti-100, which includes four themed exhibitions and two Bauhaus festivals (www.miesvanderrrohehaus. de, Oberseestraße 60). Another interesting exhibition, bau1haus, has recently been presented at the Willy Brandt-Haus (Wilhelmstr. 140, www.willy-brandt-haus.de), showcasing the photographs of Berlin-based photographer Jean Molitor, who documented Bauhaus and modernist buildings in Germany, Russia, Spain, Cuba, the US, and beyond in order to provide a comprehensive list of these structures.

And while Berlin’s Bauhaus Archiv is currently undergoing restoration and expansion, its exhibitions can still be visited at the Archiv’s temporary location at Knesebeckstr.

1-2, which also includes a fabulous design shop selling modernist souvenirs.

BAUHAUS EXHIBITION, COURTESY OF BRÖHAN MUSEUM. OPPOSITE PAGE: GEORGE SEGAL MAN INSTALLING PEPSI-SIGN, 1973. @ THE GEORGE AND HELEN SEGAL FOUNDATION / VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 2018. © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE / ANDRES KILGER

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

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/ ANDRES KILGER

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. The museum will be closed until September 2019 for renovations. In the meantime, the temporary Bauhaus-Archiv is open at Haus Hardenberg. Mon–Sat 10am-6pm. Free. www.bauhaus.de. Knesebeckstr. 1-2.

T: 030.25400278. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. D4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum.

Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. T: 030: 32690600.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de.

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Germanic areas to the present day. Christmas tree decorations from the 20th century until today.

Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Deutsches Spionage Museum (German Spy Museum) Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de.

Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78 T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14.

T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm.

Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

The Local Hotspots Contemporary art developed quickly during the second half of the 20th century, largely thanks to the art scenes in regional hotspots such as New York, Berlin, Cologne, and Los Angeles. Active during this time, art historian and artist Donald Judd writes that it was the easy interaction between art and the city that fueled this growth. But what influenced the artists in each of the local scenes, and how were artists like Donald Judd, Sigmar Polke, and Jenny Holzer influencing the world around them? Local Histories, showing at the Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 39), takes pieces from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection and the Nationalgalerie’s collection to explore the relationships and conditions that the artists drew on from their environments. Until 29 September.

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei What was life like in Communist East Germany?

The permanent exhibition Everyday Life in the GDR at the Kulturbrauerei answers this question www.wheretraveler.com 37

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THE MOMENT IS ETERNITY

THE CULTURAL LANDSCAPE OF SYRIA

Works from the Olbricht Collection. Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment.

Preservation and archiving in times of war.

me Collectors Room, to 1 Apr:

COLORFUL STONES

Georg-Kolbe Museum, to 23 Feb: The colorful works William Tucker, Kai Schiemenz, and Stefan Guggisberg meet in quiet and beautiful harmony.

OBJECTS OF WONDER. BRITISH SCULPTURE 1950S –PRESENT

PalaisPopulaire, to 27 May:

Over 70 works from the Tate Collection, including works by Henry Moore and Eileen Agar.

FREEDOM. THE NOVEMBERGRUPPE 1918-1935.

Berlinische Galerie, to 11 Mar: Art from the radical artist collective during the revolutionary postwar years.

Pergamon Museum, from 28 Feb:

BERLIN IN THE 1918/19 REVOLUTION.

Museum of Photography, to 3 Mar:

Photography, Film, Entertainment Culture. A photographic visual history of the immediate post-war period and its entertainment culture.

SAUL LEITER. DAVID LYNCH. HELMUT NEWTON: NUDES.

Newton Foundation, to 19 May:

The first exhibition at the museum to be dedicated to nude photography.

ROBERT LIEBKNECHT, EARLY WORK.

Kollwitz Museum, to 3 Feb:

Showing Liebknecht's earliest works, when he first met Kollwitz as a teen.

with such diverse objects as breakfast dishes, sports uniforms, and ad posters, as well as witness accounts, film material, and more. The aim is to preserve a cultural memory of a country that may no longer exist, though its legacy lives on. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm). Closed Mon. € free. www.hdg.de. Knaackstr. 97.

T: 030.467777911. U Eberswalder Straße. F1–F2

Museum of Photography

40 YEARS OF GERMAN SPACE FLIGHT.

Deutsches Technikmuseum to 31 Mar:

Celebrating the past four decades of Germans in space.

THE EXOTIC COUNTRY

German History Museum, from 1 Feb: Photo reportages on West Germany by Stefan Moses.

ERNST LUDWIG KIRCHNER

Brücke Museum, to 31 Mar: Kirchner works from when he moved to the Swiss Alps to escape WWI. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €6/4. www.brueckemuseum.de. Bussardsteig 9.

FROM ARTS AND CRAFTS TO THE BAUHAUS: ART AND DESIGN, A NEW UNITY.

Bröhan Museum, to 5 May

Celebrating the 100th birthday of Bauhaus.

Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Natural History Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals.

Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www.museumfuernaturkunde.berlin.

Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer Neues Museum corps, whose lower two floors are The Allied Museum in MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust occupied by the Helmut Newton Zehlendorf traces the Foundation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s history of the Allied (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am– top attraction. Examine a worldpresence in Berlin.

6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. famous Egyptian collection that Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. includes many important papyruses, S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4 while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and Museum of Communication left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum An entertaining journey through the history reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm of communication inside the neo-Baroque (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. building that once hosted Berlin’s post office www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, make perfect tour guides through the most S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era Pergamon Museum of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon

40 Years of German Space Flight at Deutsches Technikmuseum

houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through end of 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon– 6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War

COURTESY OF DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM

Museums Calendar

Our roundup of the best exhibitions on this month.

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era. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Art and Design - A New Unity! January 24--May 5, 2019 --- Bröhan-Museum

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

ate ebr Cel aus in h Bau erlin B

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3 Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Wed– mon noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. www.db-palaispopulaire.de.

Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

the temporary bauhaus-archiv exhibitions, events, interventions

www.bauhaus.de www.bauhaus-shop.de

me Collectors Room

knesebeckstr. 1 – 2 berlin-charlottenburg u2 ernst-reuter-platz mon–sat, 10 am–6 pm www.wheretraveler.com 39

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THE PERFECT

- BERLIN WEEKEND -

Berliners definitely know how to make the most out of every weekend.

Follow our guide to join them with two full days of food, fun, entertainment, and culture.

SATURDAY SUNDAY -----------------------------------------------12:30pm: Head on foot to Museum Island, enjoying the walk through Monbijoupark and along the Spree River.

Once there, check out the Ancient Egyptian collection at the Neues Museum, including the iconic bust of Nefertiti, or admire classical sculptures at the Bode Museum.

11am: Indulge in a long brunch at Russian-Jewish restaurant Pasternak (Knaackstr. 22–24, www. restaurant-pasternak.de), where the loaded buffet includes things like blini pancakes filled with creamy cheese, devilled eggs with caviar, and smoked fish.

--------------------------------------1:30pm: It’s a pleasant walk from there to the popular flea markets at Arkonaplatz and Mauerpark, which are great for antiques, retro knick-knacks, handcrafts, and people watching.

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2:30pm: After a quick bite at Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www.monsieurvuong.de), one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants in the city, do a little shopping around one of the city’s best boutique districts, browsing around Mulackstraße, Alte Schönhauser Straße, and Weinmeisterstraße.

3pm: From Mauerpark, head down the road to the Berlin Wall Memorial, where you can explore a moving monument to the Wall’s victims (Bernauer Str. 111, www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de).

----------------------------------------5pm: Ride the elevator to the top of the famed TV Tower at Alexanderplatz and for a drink at sunset.

-----------------------------------4pm: Take the S-Bahn to Tiergarten for coffee and cake at lovely Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee.de), then take a scenic stroll through the park.

----------------------------------------8pm: After freshening up, head out to super-chic Tausend (Schiffbauerdamm 11, www. tausendberlin.com). Restaurant, bar, and club in one, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy great Asian-fusion cuisine and cocktails and then dance into the night.

-------------------------------------7:30pm: At the edge of Tiergarten is the 25hours Hotel – head up to the penthouse for a fresh, Israeli-Mediterranean dinner at NENI, inclusive of gorgeous views over the city.

©ISTOCK; DISTRIKT COFFEE COURTESY OF DISTRIKT COFFEE; NENI COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTELS

10am: Grab a table at Distrikt Coffee in Mitte (Bergstr. 68), where buttermilk pancakes, poached eggs, and great coffee will get the day off to the right start.

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THE GUIDE | DINING

Clockwise from top left: one of the specialties at NaNum; kimchi; bibimbap; table setting at Gogogi.

Seoul Food GOGOGI: © ETT LA BEN; NANUM: COURTESY OF NANUM; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK.

The kimchi-obsessed Hilda Hoy shares her favorite Korean spots around town.

If you could really go for some kimchi, bibimbap, or bulgogi right now, you're in good company: Korean food is one of the most popular and well-represented Asian cuisines in Berlin, with new restaurants opening all the time. Korean culture has had a toehold in Germany ever since South Korean migrant workers were recruited here in the 1960s, and it's only natural that that legacy should extend to food as well.

The newest opening is NaNum (Lindenstr.

90, www.nanumberlin.com), a beautiful space directly across from the Jewish Museum, on the border between Kreuzberg and Mitte. The owner is not only a passionate chef but also a ceramic artist, and the space doubles as a studio to create and sell her wares. A small, changing menu of seasonal lunch specials is served on weekdays, with dinner offered on Fridays and Saturdays as well. Expect colorful rice bowls, seafood pancakes, and rich noodle

soups, served on lovely ceramics made in-house.

The widest range of delectable Korean dishes can be found at Hodori (Goebenstr. 16, www.restaurant-hodori.de), a no-frills Schöneberg restaurant that more than makes up for the lack in ambience with deliciousness.

Korean families flock here to feast on bubbling kimchi hotpot, jajangmyeon noodles in black bean sauce, and the famous tabletop barbecue in all its varieties, from streaky pork belly to spicy squid to tender bulgogi beef. As in Korea, the side dishes of various kimchi pickles are complimentary and topped up as often as you like. If a more spiffed-up atmosphere is an important dining criteria, then try the nearby Madang (Gneisenaustr. 8), which offers a somewhat smaller yet still respectable menu of great Korean classics.

Mitte's Gogogi (Weinbergsweg 24, www. gogogi.de) has not only a prime location and

cool décor going for it, but also a dedication to quality that’s evident in every bite. All the meat is free-range and sourced from a small farm, and many ingredients are handmade in-house, like the citrusy soy sauce and gochujang chili paste. The lunch menu features a variety of Korean standards such as bibimbap, rice, beef, and vegetables sizzling in a heated stone bowl, while dinnertime is your chance to try out the tabletop barbecue. The stylish vibe, warm service, and inventive fusion cocktails made with soju rice liquor make this a great spot for a special night out with friends or family. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Berlin's concierge association, Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com.

Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620.

S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves 42 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 20 19

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www.1687.berlin refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com.

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D.www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149.

T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

Breakfast from 8 a.m.

Lunch from 12 p.m.

Dinner from 5 p.m.

India Club

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a.

T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

E

U

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Jolly

SPRE Wilhelmstraße

Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€.

Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin

open Mo to Fr from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Sa from 5:00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m. / Sunday closed

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

W I RT S H AU S BERLIN

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17.

T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin Tel.: 030 679665520

www.berlin-hofbraeu.de

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw

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DINING from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30.

T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing

the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41.

T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over

the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850.

U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262.

U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520.

U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4.

T: 030.278909555.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288.

S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians

To The Bone With a welcoming, convivial atmosphere in addition to great food and drink, it's little wonder the pub is one of Ireland's greatest cultural exports. And while Salt n Bone is not your stereotypical Irish pub, the two Dubliners running this Prenzlauer Berg establishment have made sure to deliver all the best features their home country's pub tradition has to give. They’ve assembled a great assortment of craft beers on tap and a stellar assortment of house cocktails, such as The Auld Dubliner, with Irish whiskey, Guinness syrup, and a couple dashes of molasses and orange bitters. All of which will go perfectly with delicious bar snacks like the Scotch egg, a soft-boiled egg wrapped in savory sausage meat, then breaded and fried ‘til crispy, or a side of “beerkhins” – fried beer-battered gherkin pickles. After the snacking course is over, move on to pub grub classics like good old fish and chips, slow-braised ribs in a bourbon-cola glaze, and a selection of delicious burgers. There's plenty for vegetarians to salivate over as well, with a surprising variety of creative, meat-free options.

Schliemannstr. 31. T: 030 91448885. www.saltnbone.de

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de.

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DINING Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780.

U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Restauration 1840

Zillemarkt

German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less wood everywhere, plus an outdoor than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. terrace. The menu: classic German Bleibtreustr. 48a. meets modern European. €€.Daily T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4 B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401.

Berliner Weisse is a pale S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European.

ale brewed only in the capital and usually served with a shot of syrup.

Overlooking the canal on the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de.Gertraudenstr. 10.

T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Zeit für Brot

SALT'N'BONE: COURTESY OF SALT'N'BONE

German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot—“Time for Bread”—is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €.

Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com.

ITALIAN

Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts,

quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€.

Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828.

U Französische Straße. E3

Mama Trattoria Italian. Healthful Italian food made with the best

Italian ingredients and, whenever possible, with

local produce. Many of the ingredients used, such as the beef and the pastas, are organic, and gluten-free options are available too. Order a pizza and salad, or just stop by for one of their delicious desserts. €/ €€. www.mama.eu. Pariser Platz 6a.

T: 030.467260981. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

I Due Forni dsItalian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza

hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizzaloving crowds at bay. The generously sized thincrust concoctions are famed around the city. €.

Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere.

Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105.

T: 030.82409600.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried

taste and toast Bikini Berlin’s food market serving culinary delights from over 10 different countries, now open until 22:00!

Zoologischer Garten

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DINING International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2.

T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3.

T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls.

Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€. Mon–Sat B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rio GrandeAme International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. MayAyim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. Schlesisches Tor.

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 15.00 CET 19.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 19.00 - 23.00 CET

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de.

Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030/ 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€.

Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12.

T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN

Modern Hellenic dishes

Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32.

T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€.

Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Restaurant Z

Lowkal ©ISTOCK

Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Z

®

Berlin

Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836.

U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

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DINING

TOP 5

Local Foods Every Visitor Should Try Discover Berlin the best way: with your taste buds. Hilda Hoy rounded up a list of the most iconic, must-try dishes Berlin has to offer.

Sampling the local cuisine is the source of many travelers’ fondest memories. Don’t leave town without sampling these iconic snacks and meals that are unique to Berlin cuisine. Will you love them as much as locals do? Better try them all to find out.

CURRYWURST

Legend has it that Berlin’s famed sausage snack doused in curry-spiked ketchup was invented in 1949 by a woman named Herta Heuwer. Her original snack stand in Charlottenburg is long gone, and today, two competitors battle for the title of Berlin’s best currywurst: Konnopke’s (Schönhauser Allee 44B, www.konnopke-imbiss. de) under the U-Bahn tracks in Prenzlauer Berg, or Curry36 in Kreuzberg (Mehringdamm 36, www.curry36.de).

©ISTOCK

KÖNIGSBERGER KLOPSE

These meatballs technically originate from further east – from East Prussia, now belonging to Russia under the name Kaliningrad. Still, for many Berliners, these meatballs bathed in caper cream sauce are comfort food of the highest order. Order a delicious plateful at cozy

Marjellchen (Mommsenstr. 9, www.marjellchenberlin.de) or try a more refined, haute cuisine version at La Soupe Populaire, which combines German cuisine with a cool, post-industrial look. (Prenzlauer Allee 242, www.lasoupepopulaire.de)

EISBEIN

The name means “ice leg” but this dish is actually a pig knuckle – cured, boiled, and served with sauerkraut and potatoes, summing up the rustic, stick-to-your-ribs quality of oldschool Berliner cooking. Gnaw on a hock at Max und Moritz, a scenic gastropub in Kreuzberg that dates all the way back to 1902 (Oranienstr.

162, www.maxundmoritzberlin.de). Another place specializing in classic Berlin cuisine, Eisbein included, is Charlottenburg’s Zillemarkt (Bleibtreustr. 48A, www.zillemarkt.de).

DÖNER KEBAB

The wildly popular street food snack was invented right here in Berlin by a Turkish migrant in the 1970s, who took Turkish-style meat roasted on a vertical spit and stuffed it into bread with veggies and sauce. The family of the inventor still runs a roaring döner kebab trade at Hasir (Adalbertstr. 10, www.hasir.de).

Another Kreuzberg kebab institution is Imren (Boppstr. 10, www.imren-grill.de), which has earned many loyal fans due to its fragrant, topquality meat.

BERLINER

This jam-filled doughnut is a traditional treat on New Year’s Eve, but delicious any day of the year. At Bäckerei Balzer, a charmingly retro Mitte bakery that dates back to 1926, the Berliner doughnuts boast the perfect ratio of crisp, sugary glaze to pillowy dough.

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Red Carpets And Golden Bears The Berlinale film festival brings the world's best movies to Berlin cinemas, big and small, says Solveig Steinhardt.

With its glamorous appeal and events accessible to all, the Berlin International Film Festival is always a bright light in Berlin's otherwise dark and cold winter. Every Feburary, the festival brings locals and visitors together for around four hundred films ranging from major feature movie premieres to experimental art house shorts, and everything in between.

Just like the city that hosts it, the Berlinale is both glamorous and laid back, but it can also be controversial, daring, and politically charged. Although it attracts many Hollywood celebrities, it is also a training ground for many young filmmakers who join the festival's Talent Campus to learn more about the business and meet industry professionals.

The focal point of the festival is the Competition section, catching the world's attention with big international productions rubbing shoulders with works by lesser-

known directors. Participation films get announced shortly before the festival begins, so check the website for details. Another popular section is the Retrospective program, which focuses on a different theme each year. This edition celebrates digital restoration techniques with six premieres of touched-up and improved films, including the German The Invincibles (1994) and the Danish Ordet (1955).

All films are screened with English subtitles, and most screenings are open to the public, although some of the venues sell out faster than others. The festival's main events take place in Potsdamer Platz and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt, but most

of the city's theaters are involved in the event Berlinale Goes Kiez, which brings festival movies to art house cinemas all over town, providing Berliners with the opportunity to see Berlinale screenings at their own neighborhood cinema, preceded sometimes by talks with the films' directors or other international guests.

Those interested in the history of the festival should also visit the Museum for Film and Television (www. deutsche-kinematek.de), which will presenting a photo-history of the Berlinale.

Some ticket advice: ticket sale usually begins at 10 am three days before the festival begins, both online and at ticket stands. See website for screening locations. www.berlinale.de.

7–17 February.

PETER USTINOV, 1955, PHOTO BY H. KOESTER, © DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK; JAMES STEWART, 1962, PHOTO BY H. KOESTER, © DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK; . BERLINALE CINEMA AND BEAR: COURTESY OF BERLINALE.

Clockwise from top left: Peter Ustinov at the Berlinale in 1955; a talk at Berlinale in 2017; James Stewart in berlin in 1962.

Below: the Berlinale's Golden Bear.

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. www.komische-oper-berlin. de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400.

U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7.

U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avant-

ENTERTAINMENT

garde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday

Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 ALLISON BURKE GROUP, COURTESY OF THE UKULELE ORCHESTRA OF GREAT BRITAIN.

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim

The Ukes Are Back!

The Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain maestros are back in town with their miniature guitars “bought with loose change,“ as they say. They will be stopping at Konzerthaus (this page) on 22 February with a repertoire that ranges from Sweet Dreams and Heroes to Highway to Hell and Ennio Morricone classics such as The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly. It’s guaranteed to be a highly entertaining concert.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Concert Calendar Opera KOMISCHE OPER 10, 16, 20, 23, 24, 27, 28 Feb: West Side Story (Bernstein) 17 Feb: Eine Frau, die weiß, was sie will! (Straus) 2, 8, 14 Feb: La Bohème (Puccini)

DEUTSCHE OPER 2, 7, 10 Feb: La Sonnambula (Bellini) 10, 17, 21 Feb: Carmen (Bizet) 22 Feb: Turandot (Puaccini)

STAATSOPER

PHILHARMONIE 1 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Janowski) performs Bruckner.

13-15 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. NézetSéguin) performs Ravel, Debussy, and Prokofiev.

21 Feb: Daniil Trifonov performs Beethoven, Schumann, and Prokofiev

KONZERTHAUS 1, 2 Feb: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Sanderling) performs Brahms and Weinberg.

8, 10, 12 Feb: Don Giovanni (Mozart).

21 Feb: The Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain.

Classical

Pop, Rock, Jazz

CHAMBER MUSIC HALL 4 Feb: The Hagen Quartet performs Haydn, Schubert, and Schumann.

16 Feb: Sharoun Ensemble Berlin and Rinnat Moriah perform Benjamin and others.

22 Feb: Scholars of the Karajan Academy performs Carte Blanche.

Our roundup of the best shows happening this month.

TEMPODROM 16 Feb: Tears for Fears Rule the World Tour

MERCEDES-BENZARENA 14 Feb: Twenty One Pilots live 28 Feb: Nicki Minaj and Future live

Dance, Musicals, Cabaret, Variety STAATSBALLETT 1, 14 Feb: Romeo und Julia at Deutsche Oper 2, 9 Feb: La Bayadère at Staatsoper

CHAMÄLEON VARIETE All month: Circa’s Peepshow

FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST All month: VIVID Grand Show

ADMIRALSPALAST 1-3 Feb: Rock the Ballet X 10 Feb: Die Schneekönigin - Das Musical

WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ All month: Staunen - Circus of Stars

Sports MERCEDES-BENZ ARENA 1 Feb: The ISTAF indoor 2 Feb: ALBA Berlin - medi Bayreuth

after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr.

12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Arena

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

SO36

The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030.

S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de.

Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

B Flat Jazz Club

KulturBrauerei

Tempodrom

Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123.

U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de.

Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de.

Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565.

S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

Lido

Quasimodo

A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.

One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to

Havanna

Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

COURTESY OF FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST.

VIVID Grand Show at Friedrichstadt-Palast.

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Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.

Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

NTIL O N LY U

2 4 .0 2 .2 0

19

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. www.chamaeleonberlin.de.

Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590.

S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

The evening is hosted by: Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

22.08. – 11.11.

14.11. – 25.11.

28.11. – 09.12.

12.12. – 13.01.

16.01. – 20.01.

23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Rodrigue Funke

www.wintergarten-berlin.de

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184.

T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. English surtitles. www. neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße.Off map.

Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Discover Europe’s

capital of nightlife

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153.

U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt

©ISTOCK

The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. 15 Dec: CarringtonBrown, 10. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www. wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

®

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: Monkey Bar; Skykitchen; Solar.

Inset: the chef at Solar.

High In Berlin Sure, you could get dinner and a movie.

You could lie low, Netflix and chill. Or you could do something on a higher order of magnitude: Participate in the timehonored date-night tradition of climbing something tall, enjoying the view, and having a drink. Berlin, as it turns out, has a gamut of options for sweeping views plus drinking and dining.

This also (literally) puts the city in a different perspective: Berlin is not a skyscraper city, and that’s part of its charm. The TV Tower punctuates an eclectic mix of architecture, much of it rebuilt in the tumultuous past century. For example: Look for the rising dome on the Berlin Palace—first built in the 15th century, bombed in World War II, demolished by East Germany in the 1950s, now due to be completed (again) in 2019— right next to the one atop the Berlin Cathedral—inaugurated in 1905, bombed in World War II, re-inaugurated in 1993.

For many years after reunification, city views mostly afforded the chance to admire an impressive assortment of cranes. These days you can better appreciate what those cranes built. Romantic! No? OK, time for a drink.

Ten floors up at Bikini Berlin, atop the 25 Hours Hotel, Monkey Bar (Budapester Str. 40, monkeybarberlin.de) is aptly named. Here you not only get views over the city, you also get views into the monkey house at the zoo. A terrace wraps around the bar and there are tables by the windows. The cocktails are mostly tropical, like Mai Tais, Daiquiris, and something called a Chimperator—rum, port, chocolate syrup, passion fruit, lime, and thyme. There are enough bar snacks to absorb it, or for aMediterranean-style dinner get a table at Neni next door—same floor, also with views.

Another popular choice is Skykitchen (Landsberger Allee 106, skykitchen.berlin), atop Vienna House Andel’s Berlin hotel, where Prenzlauer Berg meets Friedrichshain. For dinner you’ll want to book well in advance; this place is no secret, boasting a Michelin star while sitting atop the local Tripadvisor rankings for Chef Alexander Koppe’s aromatic fusions of France, Asia, and Berlin. No need to reserve for a drink at Skybar, where you can enjoy the view with the bar’s Champagne cocktails.

One of the city’s best views is south of

Potsdamer Platz, at Solar (Stresemannstr. 76, solarberlin.com). Its restaurant is classy too, but more casual, and sits on the 16th floor of an office building behind the Ibis and Novotel hotels. Wonka-style, you ride a great glass elevator to reach it. Dishes might feature local Charolais beef, root veggies, bright Mediterranean citrus, or Asian spice. The bar is on the 17th floor, where DJs often spin tunes for the sippers. A streamlined version of the menu is there too, so you can try an upmarket currywurst with a spicy cocktail.

The highest view in town is from Sphere (Alexanderplatz). The only drawback is that you won’t see the TV Tower—because you’ll be on it, in the revolving restaurant.

Originally made to boost the East German signal (and political) power, the Fernsehturm is now a symbol of reunification and successful tourism, that includes Berlin’s highest bar and restaurant.

The cocktails have names like the 360°, Horizon, and Tower Sour, while dinner might be roast lamb saddle or calf’s liver with onions and apples.

They also do a breakfast buffet on Sundays – a lofty option for the morning after.

SKYKITCHEN: PHOTO BY GEORG ROSKE; SOLAR: COURTESY OF SOLAR; MONKEY BAR: COURTESY OF MONKEY BAR

Joe Stange admires the city from its rooftops.

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options.

Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de.

Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CLUBS Traffic Club A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com.

Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS

Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780.

Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Fragrances

LaBanca Bar

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3.

T:.030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090.

U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand

Newton Bar

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous.

Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50.T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin,

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton.

Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57.

T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden.24h a day except Tue from 3-10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin. de.Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10.

T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices.

THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app.

Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup. com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive.

Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Banks and Foreign Exchange

Public Ferries

Lost Cards and Cheques

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

© ISTOCK

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

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BVG LICENCE NUMBER: BVG-0024.15.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

ESSENTIALS

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WHERE NOW | FRANCESCO MENEGHINI

FRANCESCO MENEGHINI DIRECTOR With his keen eye for visual storytelling, Francesco applies his talents not only to directing international ad campaigns, but also to visual effects, animation, and interactive art projects. Since moving to Berlin from his native Italy, Francesco has discovered all sorts of inspiring creative corners in his chosen city. www.fra-me.it

What drew you to Berlin?

Berlin is still an evolving city. Unlike other capitals it has not yet found its final shape and that is what makes this city interesting. I’ve lived in Berlin for five years, and I feel that this evolution is still going on.

How would you describe this city as a place to live and work as a creative freelancer?

Berlin is both international and extremely local at the same time. In this regard I find it very different from Milan or London. People really value their free time and work is often not their main priority. From a professional point of view, you can easily meet artists, talented people, and interesting companies. I believe that if you have something to offer, Berlin has something to give.

What is one recent project you worked on?

I directed the last Emporio Armani ad campaign featuring the singer Shawn Mendes in Toronto. I love being surrounded by talented people. Working together toward the same purpose makes you feel part of a team and in this case we also became a group of friends – and, last but not least, seeing my work on huge screens on Times Square in New York and Piccadilly Circus in London was very energizing.

Besides commercial work, you also initiate your own artistic projects. What kind of inspirations feed you as an artist?

I feel easily moved by art in any form but inspiration can really come from everything, not only music, poetry and cinema, but also pictures of the last NASA missions, strange noises, deep-sea creatures, unexpected computer glitches, wild nature, dance choreography, old photos, lost objects, mysterious traces.

When you have friends or family come to visit, where do you take them to show them "your" Berlin?

To Krumme Lanke for a nice walk around the lake – maybe a swim in summertime, or even ice-skating in winter. The restaurant La Pecora Nera for an Italian aperitivo with a properly made spritz and a unique northeast Italian dinner. Klunkerkranich for a beautiful and unconventional rooftop view, live music, or DJ sets. To Cocolo Ramen for a nice walk on the Paul-Lincke-Ufer and tasty Japanese noodles, C/O Berlin for great photography exhibitions, and Martin-Gropius-Bau to discover more about yourself while seeing art. Last but not least, out for a night of clubbing at RAW in Revaler Straße.

What is one favorite place in your neighborhood?

If you look at a map of Berlin, there is a huge empty space that looks like a meteor hit the city. I love Tempelhofer Feld. There’s so much space and sky. It’s so rare to have a place in a city where your sight has no boundaries. Buy a beer at a shop close by, sit on the grass, and enjoy the sunset. You will feel you are facing the sea that the city is missing.

Imagine you had the entire day free to spend however you want. What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

It would start with a run through Gleisdreieck Park,followed by a galao from Double Eye coffee in Schöneberg, then a quick check at Arkonaplatz flea market for vintage typography sets or mysterious objects. Lunch would be a grilled trout at Winterfeldtplatz Market and then a visit to a museum. Next, ping pong at the park with friends until dark, then some relaxation time listening to music underwater in the Liquidrom pool. For dinner, homemade gnocchi and red wine at my place with friends and then out for a live music event.

Clockwise from top left: Tempelhofer Feld; Francesco Meneghini; Klunkerkranich rooftop bar; Liquidrom; the floating pool at Liquidrom; a flea market

TEMPELHOFER FELD AND FLEA MARKET: © ISTOCK; PORTRAIT OF FRANCESCO MENEGHINI: COURTESY OF FRANCESCO MENEGHINI; KLUNKERKRANICH COURTESY OF KLUNKERKRANICH; LIQUIDROM: COURTESY OF LIQUIDROM.

My Berlin

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