Where Magazine Berlin Apr 2019

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

WHERETRAVELER.COM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

APRIL 2019

EXPLORING HISTORY Understanding WWII through Berlin’s memorials, museums, and sites

PLUS: UNUSUAL WALKING TOURS INTERNATIONAL STREET FOOD ADVENTURES FOR THRILL SEEKERS

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS 15/03/2019 10:33

»An icon of Berlin nightlife«

»A GIGANTIC Hit! Bravo!!!« broadway World

»Absolutely

perfect!«

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Berlin

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CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

16

5 Editor’s Note

18

6 Hot Dates

SIGHTSEEING

An adrenaline rush for thrill seekers.

Highlights of the month, including an opera festival, a week of videogames, and Bob Dylan.

23

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

ZOO MOCKBA - the whimsical charm of Soviet toy animals.

8 8

28

ENTERTAINMENT

Secure your tickets to the best comedy shows of the month.

37

58

SHOPPING

Beauty products your skin will thank you for.

40

48

17 Ask The Concierge

American-style smoked meat for choosy carnivores.

Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

52

34 Wohin am Abend

58 My Perfect Day

54

Find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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ADVENTURES FOR THRILL SEEKERS

WWII ended more than 70 years ago, but traces still remain. BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

16 International Street Food

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INTERNATIONAL STREET FOOD

10 A Troubled History

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Understanding WWII through Berlin’s memorials, museums, and sites

SHOPPING

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EXPLORING HISTORY

Where Now

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ESSENTIALS

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Vincent Garcia Culinary insights from a Berlin-based chef.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

NIGHTLIFE

Berlin market halls – your new favorite bars!

Ella-Tre reb be-Str.

LAKE, TACOS, REGIERUNGSVIERTEL: @ ISTOCK; BOB DYLAN: COURTESY OF PR; CRAB BY SWAROVSKI

German-language shows and culture.

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DINING

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THIS MONTH'S CONTRIBUTORS Runqi Lin, Jennifer Kronovet, Annabelle Mallia, Joe Stange, Solveig Steinhardt, Sarah Wilson, Jörg Luyken GERMANLANGUAGE SECTION Sylvia Lundschien, listings by Denise Gransow.

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 9

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Layers Of History Berlin is many things: it's a youthful European capital, a nightlife hub, an art center, but it's also a history destination for millions of visitors every year. Having played a crucial role in two World Wars and the Cold War, Berlin has been at the center of strife for most of the 20th century. So much has happened in Berlin that it can be difficult to discern the different historical layers, so this month we put together a list of all of the most relevant WWII sites you can visit to better understand this devastating period of world history (p. 10).

Also in this issue, Jörg Luyken selects the best of Berlin's off-beat walking tours, from a nightlife photography walk to a David Bowie tour (p. 14).

Annabelle Mallia gets us hungry for street food (p. 16) and for adventure (p. 18). And if you are already thinking of which European city to visit next, remember that Where Berlin is part of the Where International network of publications and is present in 100 top destinations on five continents around the world, including many European cities such as Paris, London, Rome, Milan, Venice, and Budapest.

Enjoy your stay!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Computerspielemuseum Karl-Marx-Allee 93 a Berlin-Friedrichshain U 5 Weberwiese Opening Hours daily 10 am to 8 pm computerspielemuseum.de

N SPECIAL EXIBITIO PAN’ ‘BONUS-LEVEL JA The exhibition ‘BONUS-LEVEL JAPAN’ allows visitors to experience the Japanese computer and video game culture for themselves at numerous interactive exhibits – whether on home computers, mobile devices, arcade machines or video game consoles.

www.wheretraveler.com 5

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®

Spring has sprung! Sing along to Bob Dylan, catch a breakdance show in a museum, and discover new video games at Gamesweek.

VIDEOGAME WEEK FROM Gamers unite for a week of talks, 8 APR workshops, networking DAYS FROM FESTIVAL Opera doesn’t always have to be about tragedy. At the heart of this year’s 12 APR FESTTAGE are two musical comedies: Richard Wagner’s Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg and Sergei Prokofiev’s Betrothal in a Monastery. Daniel Barenboim conducts both works and also directs the concert program, which features the Vienna Philharmonic, Staatskapelle Berlin, and Rundfunkchor Berlin. The newly founded children’s opera orchestra will also debut with Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf. www.staatsoper-berlin.de

opportunities, and other events geared toward game designers, business and community developers, and other industries interested in digital games. Core events focus on international art and culture in games, an action plan for women in games and tech, and a public event for casual play. The program is based at the Kulturbrauerei but has happenings throughout the city. www.gamesweekberlin.com

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

STEPS FROM FLYING What would it look 5 APR like if dancers brought visual art to life, and how would it sound? Come and see at the new show from Flying Steps, Pictures at an Exhibition, debuting at the Hamburger Bahnhof contemporary art museum. The show follows the Berlin-based dance company’s successful productions of Flying Bach and Flying Illusion, which both combined breakdance with classical music. Pictures at an Exhibition, which brings to life Modest Mussorgsky’s famous musical poem composed in 1874, is staged in conjunction with Brazilian duo OSGEMEOS and blends elements of orchestral music and modern dance into contemporary art. www.smb.museum

STORE DAY 13 RECORD For indie record stores, this day is bigger than Christmas. With over 3,000 APR participating stores worldwide, RSD is now widely regarded as the largest music event in the world. In Berlin, around 15 vinyl shops celebrate RSD, not only by offering records for sale, but also by hosting in-store gigs, parties, and club events. Limited editions of exclusive RSD releases make for great collectibles. www.recordstoredaygermany.de

FROM ACHTUNG 10 APR BERLIN Popcorn anyone? This week-long film festival specializes in films shot in or around the German capital.

Categories include “Made in Berlin-Brandenburg,” “Berlin Independent,” and “Berlin Documents.” Achtung Berlin provides a great chance to see work by local talent and catch a glimpse of Berlin’s most cinematic sites. Many of the films are screened at Kino Babylon in Mitte, and most German-language movies have English subtitles. Check out their website for theaters and screenings in English. www.achtungberlin.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

APRIL

JERUSALEM INTERNATIONAL CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL

In spring, the atmospheric glass courtyard at the Jewish Museum hosts the Jerusalem International Chamber Music Festival, which celebrates cross-cultural exchange through music. For six days, outstanding musicians from around the globe come together under the direction of renowned pianist Elena Bashkirova to share their love of chamber music – this year focusing on Viennese composers. www.jmberlin.de

4 APR

BOB DYLAN

Don’t miss your chance to see the pioneer of folk and rock music take the stage. Bob Dylan’s most celebrated works are from the 1960s, when songs such as Blowin’ in the Wind and The Times They Are a-Changin became anthems for the civil rights and anti-war movements. Yet 50 years later he is still making masterpieces and impressing audiences with his poetic lyrics. Performing at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arenaberlin.de

Take the lift to the 6th floor at KaDeWe for the ultimate food shopping experience.

Find an array of fresh food, spices, and clothes at the Turkish Market along Maybachufer.

‘70s ska revival band The Specials on their Encore 40th Anniversary tour at the Max-Schmeling-Halle.

Don’t miss folk and rock music legend, Bob Dylan, performing tonight at the Mercedes-Benz Arena.

“Mirror, mirror on the wall”: Snow White brought to life by Staatsoper Unter den Linden.

Succumb to the charms of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s The Magic Flute at Deutsche Oper.

Vote for your favorite sausage at this year’s Bratwurstmeisterschaft at Domäne Dahlem.

Electric Monday at Kit Kat Club, Berlin’s most infamous sex club. Dress code: anything goes.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie’s free “lunch concert” at 1 pm.

Achtung Berlin film festival showcases flicks shot in or around the German capital.

The Jerusalem International Chamber Music Festival featuring Mendelssohn-Bartholdy.

Sweet juice of the bees! Try Food Tasting: Honey at Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg.

Record Store Day: for indie record stores and vinyl fans, this day is bigger than Christmas!

The magic of spring returns to the annual Cherry Blossom Festival at Gärten der Welt.

Trick your eyes and entertain your mind at the recently opened Museum of Illusions.

Tango Tuesday at the historical Clärchens Ballhaus. Beginners’ class starts at 7pm.

Sergei Prokofiev’s comical opera Betrothal in a Monastery is on tonight’s Festtage program.

Picasso fans shouldn’t miss the collection at Museum Berggruen in Charlottenburg.

Ring the doorbell to retro, speakeasy cocktail bar Green Door just off Winterfeldtplatz.

Britzer Garten kindles their Easter bonfire, chasing away the dark spirits of winter.

Visit Markthalle Neun’s Breakfast Market for the most important meal of the day.

It’s your last chance for fun fair action at the Spring Festival on Kurt-Schumacher-Damm.

Members of the Vienna Philharmonic play Wolf, Berg, and Schubert at the Pierre Boulez Saal.

Immerse yourself in the German sauna culture at Liquidrom.

Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

Gallery Weekend Berlin is a hotspot for art fans and collectors alike.

Get out of Berlin for the Baumblütenfest, Germany’s biggest fruit wine festival, in Werder.

Alba Berlin shoots some hoops against FC Bayern München at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Listen to cutting-edge sounds at Madame Claude’s Experimontag, with its quirky style.

Take a walk on the wet and wild side at the Aquarium Berlin.

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

HOTEL AUSCHWITZ, MARTIN HOLGER SABINE, COURTESY OF ACHTUNG BERLIN; FESTTAGE: ©HOLGER KETTNER; FLYING STEPS: COURTESY OF FLYING STEPS; GAMESFEST: GRZEGORZ KARKOSZKA_BOOSTER SPACE; BOB DYLAN PRESS PHOTO ITB; RECORD STORE DAY: ISTOCK.

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WHERE NOW | WWII

HISTORY Solveig Steinhardt and Jennifer Kronovet explored Berlin’s darkest period.

Germany’s history is uniquely dark and its influence on the modern world is immeasurable. In World War Two alone, Germany brought suffering and destruction to the whole continent, causing the deaths of 60 million people, two-thirds of whom were civilians, and murdering six million Jews. As the German capital and seat of Hitler’s government, Berlin had a central role in the conflict, and although 33% of the city was razed by Allied bombings, the city still bears traces of its Nazi past. Visiting these sites can help one gain insight into an almost incomprehensible moment in history.

Germania, Not Berlin When he rose to power in 1933, Hitler moved to Berlin with a plan to renovate the city and give it the grandeur worthy of the capital of the German empire he believed he would create. Walking around today’s Berlin, one can imagine what almost came to pass.

Berlin was to be renamed “Germania” and reorganized along a central axis connecting Brandenburg Gate to Olympiastadion.

There was a plan to encase Brandenburg Gate in a triumphal arch six times as tall as the gate itself (see photo, right).

Hitler’s plan also included two new train stations, while existing stations such as Anhalter Bahnhof would be converted into swimming pools. Hitler himself designed an enormous domed building, a Volkshalle, which he wanted to be the largest indoor space in the world. To determine the feasibility of constructing large buildings on the city’s marshy ground, Hitler’s architect, Alfred Speer, conducted tests by placing heavy loads on the ground throughout the city. One of these loads, known as the Schwerbelästigungskörper, (www.schwerbelaestigungskoerper.de)

can still be seen today at the intersection of Dudenstraße and General-Pape-Straße.

There’s also a small exhibition about the Führer’s idea.

Very little of the plan was realized, and most of the buildings completed were destroyed by the Allies. To get a glimpse of Nazi architecture that remains, visit Fehrbelliner Platz with its bulky, dark buildings, go on a guided tour of Tempelhof Airport, or simply check out Berliner Unterwelten’s exhibition (www.berliner-unterwelten.de), which hosts a reproduction of the model of Hitler’s alternate city.

Dark Laws “No fresh milk for Jews.” “Aryan and nonaryan children are not allowed to play together.” “Jews are no longer allowed to keep pets.” These are some of the signs you will confront at Schöneberg’s Bayerisches Viertel, where a permanent installation of 80 signs attached to lampposts repost the

BUNDESARCHIV_BILD_146III-373,_MODELL_DER_NEUGESTALTUNG_BERLINS_(_GERMANIA_), WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; BUNDESARCHIV, BILD 146III-373 / CC-BY-SA 3.0. GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE, SACHSENHAUSEN: © ISTOCK.

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Clockwise from above, left: Victims of forced labor, from the exhibition at the NS Zwangsarbeitszentrum; the Haus der Wannsee Konferenz; a room inside the SA prison in GeneralPape-Straße; the Holocaust Memorial; Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Far left: the bombed-out Kaiser-WilhelmMemorial Church; a model of the Hitler’s plan for Berlin.

most disturbing anti-Semitic laws of the time. These laws represented a small part of the growing anti-Semitism that reached a turning point on the night of 9 November, 1938, when Nazi paramilitary troops and civilians throughout Germany carried out pogroms against Jewish property in what later became known as Kristallnacht.

On this night, most Berlin synagogues were burned down and looted. The ones that were spared stood in inner courtyards, where fires would have endangered the surrounding apartments.

The Oranienburgerstraße synagogue was saved by an art-loving Nazi police officer who stopped the Nazi mob with the excuse that the building was a protected landmark. It now hosts a museum open to the public (www.centrumjudaicum.de).

The large-scale violence of 9 November paved the way for the Final Solution of 1942, when Nazi officials decided to “put an end to the Jewish question” by murdering all of Europe’s Jews. The decision was signed at the lakeside villa now known as the Haus der Wannsee Konferenz (p.

21), which has a small exhibition about the historical context and the signing of the document.

Escalating Terror After the signing, every day hundreds of “undesirable citizens” in Berlin were summoned by the Gestapo to the SA headquarters on Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse (now Niederkirchstrasse). Many were sent to places like the NS Zwangsarbeit Zentrum (now a memorial), where they were detained before being assigned to a forced labor facility, but ca. 50,000 Berliners, mainly Jews, were deported to concentration camps across Europe on trains leaving from Track 17 (Gleis 17) at the Grunewald train station. With trees growing between the old tracks and bronze inscriptions with dates and destinations, the platform is now a haunting memorial for the Berlin Jews sent to their deaths.

The SA headquarters was not the only collection point. Smaller police stations, such as the SA prison at General-PapeStraße (www.gedenkort-papestrasse. de), served as initial detention centers for Jews and enemies of the state who’d been reported by ordinary citizens. In one of its cells, a prisoner drew his shadow’s profile with a pencil, and wrote, “The Jew David Moses Wiener-Trisker, 15 June 1933.”

For a detailed overview of Nazi terror techniques, including propaganda, forced labor, and mass murder, visit the Topographie des Terrors exhibition (www.topographie.de), standing where the SA headquarters once was. The center offers free guided tours led by historians in various languages.

Just outside of Berlin is the relatively small concentration camp of Sachsenhausen (www.sachsenhausensbg.de), which offers insight into what the bigger camps looked like. Here 200,000 people, including political opponents, the “racially or biologically inferior,” so-called “career criminals,” and “anti-socials” were detained, and about half of them died of fatigue, were shot, or murdered in the gas chambers.

Today, Berlin commemorates the victims of Nazi terror with various memorials: The largest is the Holocaust Memorial near Brandenburg Gate, dedicated to the six million Jews murdered by the Nazis, while smaller ones around the city honors other groups, such as the victims of Nazi euthanasia, the Roma and the Sinti people, and gay victims. www.wheretraveler.com 11

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Hope And The End The Nazi regime was so repressive that the very few who would dare to dissent were at high risk of losing their lives. The Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand (Memorial of the German Resistance, www. gdw-berlin.de) walks visitors through the lives and actions of the activist groups that attempted to stop Hitler from the inside. Nearby is the Gedenkstätte Stille Helden exhibition (www.gedenkstaettestille-helden.de), which recounts stories of Germans who stood up against the current laws to save Jews by hiding them or helping them escape. One of these figures was factory-owner Otto Weidt, who employed many deaf and blind Jews in his workshop, organized food and false papers for the ones threatened with deportation, and hid several of them. The Otto Weidt Workshop For The Blind (www.museum-blindenwerkstatt.de) inside the Hackesche Höfe offers insight on his work and that of other factory owners who cared for their employees.

The war ended in 1945 when Germany surrendered to the Allies. By then Berlin had been hit by 363 air raids, 85 of which came in the last two months of the war. Half of all the houses were damaged, a third were declared uninhabitable, and 16 sq. km. of the city was rubble. The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (Breitscheidplatz) stands today in its half-destroyed state as a reminder of the destruction of the war, while the single remaining arched façade of Anhalter Bahnhof (S Anhalter Bahnhof) commemorates the once-grand station.

Nothing but a sign remains of the bunker where Hitler poisoned himself with cyanide, but if you happen to pass by Museum Island, look closely at the walls of the Alte Museum, which still bear the signs of the bombs of the Battle of Berlin.

Clockwise from above, left: an Allied poster supporting an increase in weapon production; plane trails in the Berlin sky during an air raid; the Charlottenburg palace after Allied bombing; the exhibition at the Memorial of the German Resistance; Nazi eagle in front of Tempelhof Airport.

On the cover: The metal eagle head pictured on the cover, once part of a 4.50-meter-high eagle statue that stood on the roof of Tempelhof airport, was erected in 1940 to symbolize Nazi grandeur and power during the war. In 1962, U.S. soldiers took it down to make room for radar equipment, and subsequently sent the head to the army museum of West Point, NY. In 1984, the U.S. Air Force returned it to the people of Berlin and had it placed on the ground in front of the airport as a reminder of the lost war.

A VERTICAL AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN DURING A RAID ON BERLIN ON THE NIGHT OF 2-3 SEPTEMBER 1941. © IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM ON THE IWM NON COMMERCIAL LICENCE, CROWN COPYRIGHT PROVISIONS FLICENCE, CONSIDERED EXPIRED AFTER 50 YEARS. BUNDLES FOR BERLIN POSTER: NARA NATIONAL ARCHIVES AT COLLEGE PARK. BUNDESARCHIV BILD 146-1980-121-13, BERLIN, ZERSTÖRTES SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG: BUNDESARCHIV, BILD 146-1980-121-13 / GÜLL / CC-BY-SA 3.0. GEDENKSTÄTTE DEUTSCHER WIDERSTAND: COURTESY OF GEDENKSTÄTTE DEUTSCHER WIDERSTAND. COVER IMAGE OF TEMPELHOF AIRPORT EAGLE HEAD: PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN DÜREN.

WHERE NOW | WWII

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Modern architecture at the Regierungsviertel

OFFBEAT

TOURS

Berlin is best enjoyed through walking tours that show you a different side of the city, says Jörg Luyken.

T

he German capital is packed with history and fascinating architecture, which make for rich, exciting walking tours. Standard walks to sites like the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate are sure to provide a deeper understanding of Berlin’s politics and history, but the city also hosts a range of urban hikes that take you to places you might not find on your own. From tours of the local cuisine scene to street art, here are some of the more unusual walking tours Berlin has to offer.

BOWIE’S BERLIN No one evokes the sexy appeal of West Berlin quite like David Bowie, who lived in the city during his creative peak in the late 1970s. On the Bowie Walking Tour (www.musictoursberlin.com) you can experience the sights and sounds that inspired Bowie to write his classic hits, like Heroes. The tour takes fans to Hansa Studios where Bowie recorded, past the Reichstag, where a 1987 concert led to street protests in East Berlin, and around Schöneberg, the once avant-garde district that the musician called home.

GRAFFITI AND MURALS What Berlin lacks in architectural elegance, it makes up for in originality, and this

originality is on full display in the street art of Berlin. The Street Art Tour put on by Alternative Berlin Tours (www.alternativeberlin. com) takes you through the Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg districts where some of Berlin’s most famous murals are painted. Guides knowledgeable in Berlin’s street art scene will show you everything from graffiti artists’ “tags” to huge works by acclaimed artists like Case Maclaim and Victor Ash.

experience of entering a time capsule at the former city-center airport. The Tempelhof Airport Tour put on by the city (thf-berlin. de) takes you through the fascinating history of Tempelhof, which started as a Nazi mega-project, was later the site of the US airlifts that kept West Berlin fed during a Cold War standoff with the Soviets, and is now a park so big that it could fit the city-state of Monaco inside it.

STORIED HISTORY OF AN AIRPORT When you step into Tempelhof Airport you are transported back to an era when flying was still a luxury. Suave 1960s interiors and empty check-in desks give the surreal

For customized tours of the city's fashion scene, art galleries, Bauhaus architecture, and more, try GoArt (pictured, above and left, on www.goart-berlin.de)

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WHERE NOW | GREAT WALKS

GOART TOURS: COURTESY OF GOART!; ALL OTEHR PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK.; TEMPELHOF, QUELLE_ TEMPELHOF PROJEKT GMBH, WWW.TEMPELHOFERFREIHEIT.DE

From top to bottom: Eating out in one of Berlin’s restaurants; murals on a Berlin building; the city’s vibrant nightlife; one of the city’s food markets; Tempelhof Airport.

FOODIES WELCOME Few other cities embrace the term “melting pot” quite as literally as Berlin. Here immigrant and local cuisines have blended to create one of the most experimental food scenes on the planet. The Original Berlin Food Adventure guides you through the city’s culinary life, from the humble currywurst to mouthwatering Turkish baklava to the newest food trends in the capital. Your guides are local foodies who know the hidden spots that serve the best bites (www.likealocalguide.com).

CAPTURING BERLIN’S NIGHTS Berlin at night has been a source of fascination for artists and photographers since the Weimar Republic. The private Berlin Night Photo Tour put on by Aperture Tours (www.aperturetours.com) will allow you to capture the famed nightlife on film under the guidance of a professional photographer. Each tour is tailored to your interest and skill, meaning that you can focus on the people, the architecture, or the city lights. The tour is as much about the city’s

photogenic side as improving your technique for the tricky art of night photography.

LGBT POWER Gay culture has been a prominent aspect of Berlin life for decades. Ever since English writer Christopher Isherwood immortalized the gay scene of early-1930s Berlin in his novels, Berlin has had an international reputation as a center for gay culture. More recently the city’s openly gay mayor Klaus Wowereit marketed Berlin to the world as a “poor but sexy” mecca for artists.

The Queer Berlin Tour by Berlin Walks (www.berlinwalks.de) takes you to the site of the Eldorado transvestite club that was frequented by Isherwood and Marlene Dietrich and explores the Schöneberg neighborhood, which remains a center of gay life in the city to this day. www.wheretraveler.com 15

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WHERE NOW | TOP 5

Clockwise from left: Mexican tacos; smoked beef at Markthalle Neun; Vietnamese banh mi; falafel; arancini, Neapolitan fried rice balls.

5

Favorite International Street Food Spots Tacos Imagine classic grilled corn tortillas filled with fresh, traditional ingredients like pork belly and skirt steak, not the crispy Americanized version.

Santa Maria, located between the bars of Kreuzberg’s Oranienstraße, is widely regarded as Berlin’s pioneer in authentic Mexican food and the go-to place for €1.50 Taco Tuesdays.

Oranienstr. 170 www.santaberlin.com

Banh Mi Originally served on the streets of Saigon, banh mi is the perfect example of street food that eats

on the go, at a desk, or at a restaurant with friends. Take a French baguette and fill it with various Vietnamese ingredients – seasoned pork or chicken, cucumber slices, pickled carrots and daikon, and coriander – and add Maggi sauce, mayonnaise, and sliced chilies. At Cô Cô on Rosenthaler Platz the banh mi is as good as it gets!

Rosenthalerstr. 2 www.banhmi-coco.de

Pizza Fritta and Arancini Deep-fried pizza, street food from Naples, got its start in post-war kitchens when wood for the big pizza ovens was scarce. Malafritta, little sister to cult pizzeria Malafemmena,

serves up several mouthwatering versions of pizza fritta, as well as other Neapolitan fried delights, such as arancini (stuffed rice balls) and crispy seafood in a cone, all out of a window on Kottbusser Damm.

Kottbusser Damm 1

Falafel These deep-fried balls of seasoned chickpeas, often served in pita bread, topped with salad, pickled vegetables, and tahini, are known throughout the world as a perfect food for vegetarians on the go. It’s so delicious that several nations lay claim to this fried perfection. Habibi on

Winterfeldtplatz is a local institution, offering freshly prepared falafel and Lebanese street food dishes.

Goltzstr. 24

Street Food Thursdays Dumplings from Nepal, chicken from Ghana, hand-pulled noodles from China, naan from India, BBQ sandwiches from the US, and much more is on offer at Street Food Thursdays at Markthalle Neun. This weekly international gourmet smorgasbord is a must-visit for all street-food fans.

Eisenbahnstr. 42/43 www.markthalleneun.de

SMOKED BEEF: COURTESY OF MARKTHALLE NEUN. ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © I STOCK.

The best part of traveling is discovering new culinary delights. Fortunately, Berlin has so many international food joints that you don’t have to go far. Annabelle Mallia picked the best ones.

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges.

André Lindner, concierge at The Westin Grand Hotel, is here to help. www.lcdg.org

KURFÜRSTENDAMM, PORK KNUCKLE, BUS: © ISTOCK; RESTAURANT PANAMA: COURTESY OF RESTAURANT PANAMA, © PHILIPP LANGENHEIM & CORINA SCHADENDORF.

What would your perfect day look like?

I’d meet friends for lunch, catch a show or cinema in the evening, and follow that with a visit to a bar.

When you have visitors, where do you take them?

I take them to see Kurfürstendamm, a major shopping street here, and Kreuzberg’s SO 36 club.

What are your Berlin insider tips?

The Arminiusmarkthalle, which is a historic market hall in Moabit, and the waterfall at Victoria Park.

Berlin is always busy, but what is the best way to relax?

Café am Neuen See. It's the best place for people-watching with a drink.

Tips for a German specialty?

Haxe, a roasted ham hock (or pork knuckle), is delicious.

What sets Berlin apart from other major cities?

Everything is not yet fixed. The city is in a constant state of change.

Describe Berlin in three words.

Unfinished, diverse, exciting.

Do you know a romantic place in Berlin?

The front deck of the restaurant ship Cäpt’n Schillow is quite romantic.

From top to bottom: Pork knuckle; Cafe am neuen See; restaurant Panama; getting around by public bus; a walk on the Ku'damm.

Your tip for the Berlin nightlife?

Along Potsdamer Straße there are two places I’d recommend: Restaurant Panama and Victoriabar.

And for the brave, I’d suggest the Kumpelnest 3000 at Lützowstraße 23.

What special way do you recommend to discover Berlin?

On the M29 bus, which travels from Hermannplatz to Roseneck along Ku’damm.

The perfect Berlin souvenir is for you…

The capital’s Berlin Bear.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP! Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, spa services, booking transportation, shipping goods home, or simply to ask for recommendations.

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SIGHTSEEING

The Welt air balloon is a frequent sight in Berlin’s skies

which has just reopened for the season.

Ropes courses of varying difficulty bring you up into the tree line, where you f you consider a walking tour to be too maneuver balance beams, cross tricky sedate, try out these adventures for thrill obstacles, and zipline through the sky. seekers.

While jumping out of an airplane may be A city landmark itself, Weltballon Berlin taking adventure one step too far, indoor (Zimmerstraße 95-100, www.air-serviceskydiving gives you the experience of flying berlin.de) is one of the largest helium (the ultimate superpower) while safely balloons in the world – and you can take a inside a glass wind tunnel. Both Hurricane ride in it. Located close to Checkpoint Factory (Waßmannsdorfer Allee 3, www.

Charlie, it lifts passengers 150 meters in the air for breathtaking views of all the city sights. hurricanefactory.com) and Windobona (Landsberger Allee 268, www.windobona.

For something more physical, join berlin) offer 2–6-minute packages, which Berliners and their love of climbing at include a souvenir video of your free-falling Waldhochzeilgarten Jungfernheide escapade.

(Heckerdamm 260, www.

Berlin Hotrod Tour (Revaler Str. 99, waldhochzeilgarten-jungfernheide.de),

I

www.hotrod-tour-berlin.com) offers an alternative tour of the capital in soap-box cars. The driving experience is similar to go-carts, with the motor right behind your seat so you really get to feel the engine’s power when accelerating. Revving them up and charging through the city is great fun and attracts lots of attention. Just be sure to stick to the speed limit!

Still want more thrills? Come back in May or later this summer to bungee jump from the 125-meter-high roof of the Park Inn on Alexander Platz with Base Flying (www.base-flying.de).

BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

© ISTOCK

Adrenalin Rush

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SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines.

Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members.

Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119.

S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind

GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de.John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Gendarmenmarkt

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

The harmonious square was named after the gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus.

In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time, Friedrich Schiller. U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic.

Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born,

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SIGHTSEEING

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop.

Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between

the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza, filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit.

Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de.

Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152.

U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel

on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES

Also see HISTORY MUSEUMS in the MUSEUMS & GALLERIES section Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist’s aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods.

Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. S Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Cold War Black Box This small building near Checkpoint Charlie provides a good introduction to the history of the Cold War through maps, videos, historic documents, photographs, and objects. Open daily 10am–6pm. €5/2. Under-14s free. www. zentrumkalter-krieg.de. Friedrichstr. 47.

T: 030.2163571. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

If you’re heading down Pallasstraße in Schöneberg, you might find two huge eyes staring right at you. Painted on the façade of the Pallasseum apartment complex, the eyes are just one of the many creative projects involving this building. In fact, the building is best known among locals for the installation From The Inside To The Outside, where its many satellite dishes were covered with motifs chosen by the dishes’ owners, including photos of their hometowns, their favorite animals, or even their kids.

Once considered a model for modern living, this massive complex with a bridge connecting the apartments remains a social hotspot where diverse tenants live closely together. Even the ground the building stands on is historically important: it’s where the Berlin Sports Palace stood, famed not only for the games it hosted, but also for the infamous 1943 speech in which Joseph Goebbels called for a “total war.” A WWII telecommunications bunker still stands to the side of the Pallasseum, because in Berlin history itself still clings to the present. Pallasstr. 3. www.pallasseum-wohnbauten.de

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de.

030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of

PHOTO BY ANNABELLE MALLIA.

Creative Facades

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall’s eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

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A D V E R TO R I A L

Berlin’s Spring Festivals Cherry Blossom Festival At Gärten der Welt For strolls with a global flair, don’t miss Gärten der Welt in Marzahn-Hellersdorf.

Here you can take in the beauty of ten culturally themed gardens and nine garden cabinets from countries such as Thailand,

© ISTOCK.COM

Tulip Festival At Britzer Garten Spring has sprung, with crocuses, daffodils, and of course tulips, which are the stars of the show at Britzer Garten’s annual Tulipan festival. After the gray winter months, the longing for color and explosion of more than one million tulips from hundreds of different varieties attracts up to 150,000 visitors every year.

Many of the bulbs are planted neatly in flowerbeds of contrasting color, while others are scattered about adjacent fields, all of them dazzling in the sunlight. Check the website for details as timing of the festival always depends on Mother Nature herself. The rest of the garden offers more opportunity for relaxing, with hilly meadows, a large, scenic pond, a waterside restaurant, and a kids’ playgrounds.

Explore it all by foot or ride the old park train. www.britzer-garten.de. Buckower Damm 160 (12349 Berlin). Daily from 9am. T: 030.70090730.

Brazil, and China, as well as English landscape gardens. At this time of year, however, the main attraction are the Far East gardens of Japan, Korea, and China, where the cherry trees are in full bloom and celebrations break out for the opening of the new season and the annual Cherry Blossom

Festival, scheduled for 14 April this year.

Enjoy fabulous performances while savoring culinary delights and admiring traditional craftsmanship. Another highlight are the cable cars you can ride high above the expansive garden with a spectacular view of the surroundings. www.gaerten-der-welt.de. Blumberger Damm 44 (12685 Berlin). Daily from 9am.

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SIGHTSEEING

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Karl-Marx-Allee

POTSDAM

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content.

The boulevard is an important architectural showcase.

U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Biosphäre Potsdam

This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de.

Georg-Halemann-Allee 99.

T: 0331.550740.

Tram 96 from Potsdam What used to be the city’s most Hauptbahnhof. Off Map central airport is now a

DID YOU KNOW?

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

four-hectare public park, and the

Sanssouci

runways are used for Built by prisoners as a model MUST SEE The sumptuous cycling, skating, and many concentration camp in 1936, Rococo castle of Potsdam’s other sports.

Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 mainly political prisoners, whereas

by Frederick the Great, who wanted “a Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people place to be without cares.” The king of considered “inferior” were brought here a few Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to years later. The iron gate bears the infamous design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, a number of exhibitions about extermination and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am– Mon closed. €15/11.

6pm (until 4:30pm mid-Oct–mid-March). Museums www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200.

Hauptbahnhof. Off Map S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

The best

events in town

TOURS & WALKS

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

©ISTOCK

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

FAMILY ATTRACTIONS Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

®

Berlin

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berlinerunterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city’s eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de.

T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm.

S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de.

Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ME COLLECTORS ROOM; PLASTIC TOYS FROM THE 1960S, KOPCKE AND WEINHOLD.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Toys on display at me Collectors Room.

The Whimsical Charm Of Soviet Toy Animals For those of us who did not grow up in the post-WWII era, Soviet Russia might only be a hazy, bygone time, associated perhaps with nesting dolls and images of innovative space travel. We might imagine art that is dominated by censorship and propaganda, but there is much more to Soviet culture than this.

Although some Russian artists had to follow strict regulations to satisfy the government’s communication demands and aesthetic standards, other realms of Soviet artistic expression were relatively free. One of them was toy design, and this type of creativity is on

display in the 100 original pieces that make up ZOO MOCKBA – Toy Animals from the Soviet Union, showing at me Collectors Room until 22 April (p. 27).

Up until the 1930s, which marks the birth of the Russian toy industry, most Russian children played with handmade toys carved out of wood or sculpted out of clay. As soon as assembly lines first manufactured plastic toys, however, these products became almost essential to the country’s economy.

Starting in the 1950s, the Russian toy industry was given a further boost thanks to successful

graduates from Russia’s art academies such as Natalia Tyrkowa and Galina Sokolowa, who began experimenting with design and form that would appeal to children and adults alike.

Little by little, toy designers began carving out a signature style that became unmistakably avant garde. The toy animals on display at the exhibition include flexible deer, cute puppies, and farm animals made of celluloid, plastic, and rubber, and are all colorful and whimsical creations that reflect a traditional, folk aesthetic.

BY SERENE TSENG

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

HISTORY MUSEUMS

www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78 T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

DDR Museum

Jewish Museum

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de.

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Märkisches Museum

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. Christmas tree decorations from the 20th century until today.

Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages.

Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission.

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

SYRIA’S CULTURAL LANDSCAPE

Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment.

Preservation and archiving in times of war.

me Collectors Room, to 22 Apr: 400 original toy animals from the former Soviet Union.

RAINBOW ARCADE

Schwules Museum, to 13 May:

The queer story of video games, with research by the LGBTQ Game Archive.

OBJECTS OF WONDER. BRITISH SCULPTURE 1950S –PRESENT

PalaisPopulaire, to 27 May:

Over 70 works from the Tate Collection, including scuptures

by Henry Moore and Eileen Agar.

BERLIN 18/19 Märkisches Museum, to 19 May: The November Revolution in Berlin and its repercussions, visible to the present day.

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de.

Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents.

Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45.

T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

THE MOMENT IS ETERNITY

ZOO MOCKBA

Stasi Museum

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie)

Museums Calendar me Collectors Room, to 1 Apr:

What was life like in Communist East Germany?

The permanent exhibition Everyday Life in the GDR at the Kulturbrauerei answers this question with such diverse objects as breakfast dishes, sports uniforms, and ad posters, as well as witness accounts, film material, and more. The aim is to preserve a cultural memory of a country that may no longer exist, though its legacy lives on. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm). Closed Mon. € free. www.hdg.de. Knaackstr. 97.

T: 030.467777911. U Eberswalder Straße. F1–F2

Pergamon Museum, to 26 May:

THE LIVES OF IMAGES

Museum Berggruen, to 19 May:

Drawings and sculptures by Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee, Henri Matisse, and Georges Braque.

LEITER. LYNCH. NEWTON: NUDES.

Newton Foundation, to 19 May:

The museum’s first exhibition to be dedicated to nude photography.

MANTEGNA AND BELLINI

Gemäldegalerie, to 30 Jun:

Around 100 works by Andrea Mantegna and Giovanni Bellini.

Our roundup of the best exhibitions this month.

THE EXOTIC COUNTRY

German History Museum, to 12 May: Photo reportages on West Germany by Stefan Moses.

HOW TO TALK WITH BIRDS, TREES, FISH, SHELLS, SNAKES, BULLS AND LIONS

Hamburger Bahnhof, to 12 May:

An interwoven project exploring nature, human influence, and the environment.

FROM ARTS AND CRAFTS TO THE BAUHAUS: ART AND DESIGN, A NEW UNITY.

Bröhan Museum, to 5 May:

Celebrating the 100th birthday of the Bauhaus.

BORIS MIKHAILOV. BEFORE SLEEP/AFTER DRINKING

COLORFUL STONES: WILLIAM TUCKER, KAI SCHIEMENZ, STEFAN GUGGISBERG.

C/O Berlin, from 16 Mar:

Color in quiet harmony.

Everyday scenes depicting the aftermath of the Soviet collapse.

Georg-Kolbe-Museum, to 1 May:

A child in Soviet Russia, photo from the exhibition Boris Mikhailov. Before Sleep/After Drinking at C/O Berlin.

MIKHAILOV, COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN

Deutsches Historisches Museum

MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14.

T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090.

U Kochstraße. E4

www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

ANCIENT ART MUSEUMS

Bröhan Museum

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum.

Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through end of 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

ART AND DESIGN Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

The Temporary Bauhaus-Archiv Celebrate 100 years of Bauhaus in Berlin! While the original Bauhaus-Archiv/Museum für Gestaltung is being renovated and extended and will remain closed until further notice, visit the temporary space with the bauhaus-shop® in Charlottenburg.

Every Saturday, 10am–2pm: bauhaus_lab drop in.

Engage with design in a practical way!

Admission free. Open daily, except Sunday, 10am–6pm. www.bauhaus.de. Knesebeckstr. 1-2 T: 030/30641768, U Ernst-Reuter-Platz D4

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions).

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

C/O Berlin

permanen

MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography

has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

(worth

open daily:

Jan–Jun 12 p.m.–8 p.m.

Jul–Aug 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

Sep–Dec 12 p.m.–8 p.m.

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

2,80 €)

(24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m.

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

2707

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until July, 31st 2019.

With over 450 original exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

ate ebr Cel aus in h Bau erlin B

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

the temporary bauhaus-archiv exhibitions, events, interventions

www.bauhaus.de www.bauhaus-shop.de

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. T: 030: 32690600.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Altes Museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm.

Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

me Collectors Room

Cortis & Sonderegger

16.03.—01.06.2019

Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Wed– mon noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography

www.co-berlin.org

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. www.db-palaispopulaire.de.

Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

SCIENCE MUSEUMS Deutsches Technikmuseum

Art and Design - A New Unity! January 24--May 5, 2019 --- Bröhan-Museum

MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Natural History Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur 26 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 9

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skeleton and to Europe’s first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43.

T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Photo was too big so I reduced it, but can you check & adjust?

FAMILY MUSEUMS

Also see FAMILY ATTRACTIONS in the SIGHTSEEING section

DAVID LYNCH, UNTITLED, LODZ, 2000S, © DAVID LYNCH.

Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games.

Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Deutsches Spionage Museum (German Spy Museum) Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de.

Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

Underground Art

Next time you take the U-Bahn, take a moment to look around. Some of Berlin’s stations have a functional elegance to them, while others have an unmistakably retro charm, like U Fehrbelliner Platz, with its colorful signs and 1960s appeal. There are stations clearly inspired by grand cathedrals, like U Hermannplatz, with tall columns and tiled walls, and others, like Torstraße, which still retain their old-fashioned, turn-of-the-century style. Underground architecture and design has always been an integral part of everyday life in Berlin, even during the postwar decades when Berlin was split between East and West. Underground Architecture. Berlin Metro Stations 1953-1994, showing at the Berlinische Galerie (p. 25), explores forty years of public transportation history and design in the German capital. Until 20 May.

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With A Bit Of Sarcasm

T

he German capital is known worldwide for its wild techno clubs, alternative subcultures, affordable restaurants, and new bar concepts. But amid all this, there’s also a blossoming international comedy scene with numerous followers made up not only of expats but also German locals who find German comedy too old-fashioned, corny, or based on stereotypes that are no longer funny (read: the differences between men and women and similar topics).

In the last five years, new English-language comedy stages and open mics have popped up throughout the city. One of the first venues to be built especially for comedy was

Comedy Café (Roseggerstr. 17, www. comedycafeberlin.com) in Neukölln. Set up in 2015 through crowdfunding, it’s a hub for all things funny, hosting everything from a permanent standup stage and open mics to improv classes and workshops, as well as German-language evenings and even satirical voiceovers in English of German TV shows.

Another Neukölln comedy staple is We Are Not Gemüsed, a show that takes place every Tuesday at 8:30pm at Sameheads Bar (Richardstr. 10, www.gemused.com). Created in 2011 by English comedians Caroline Clifford and Paul Salamone, the show is always full and the lineup very talented.

Chances are you’ll be laughing about the

mysteries and wonders of German bureaucracy or the struggles of expat life, which rarely seems funny in real life.

You can also check out the Nameless Comedy Open Mic Wednesday nights at Radler’s (Wiener Str. 3) in Kreuzberg.

Comedians here have exactly six minutes to make you laugh (or cringe). Should you want to put your comic abilities to the test too, you can secure your time slot by commenting on Nameless’s Facebook page.

For something more central, head to Strictly Stand Up, happening every Monday at Quatsch Comedy Club (quatschcomedyclub.de, Friedrichstr. 107), which presents four first-class comics a week.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

XXXXXXXXX © ISTOCK.COM

CIRK LA PUTYKA, ROOTS, COURTESY OF CHAMÄLEON, PHOTO BY TOMAS TRESTIK

ENTERTAINMENT

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ENTERTAINMENT

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57.

T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin’s historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540.

Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of

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Pierre Boulez Saal

sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

In Zusammenarbeit mit Glynis Henderson Productions

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts

THE RETURN OF

The Living Paper Cartoon Vol. 2

THE FABULOUS SINGLETTES

April 16 to 21

April 23 to May 04

ENNIO

Let’s h a partave y!

Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de // Suitable for international guests www.wheretraveler.com 29

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Concert Calendar Opera KOMISCHE OPER 4, 19, 28 Apr: La Boheme (Puccini) 5, 18, 26, 27 Apr: West Side Story (Bernstein) 2 Apr: My Fair Lady (Loewe)

DEUTSCHE OPER 6 Apr: The Magic Flute (Mozart) 13, 20 Apr: Tosca (Puccini) 7, 12 Apr: Der Zwerg (Zemlinsky)

STAATSOPER 2, 4, 5 - 7 Apr: Schneewittchen (Mitterer) 26 Apr: The Magic Flute (Mozart)

Classical CHAMBER MUSIC HALL 4 Apr: Seven musicians from the Berliner Philharmoniker perform Ravel.

26 Apr: The Varian Fry Quartet peform Medelssohn and Schubert.

49. BERLINER FRÜHLINGSFEST March 29 and April 22 Zentraler Festplatz

28 Apr: Cowan (organ) and Bendix-Balgley (violin) perform Liszt, Bach, and Rachmaninov.

29 Apr: The Bundesjugendorchester (cond.

Metzmacher) perform Varèse and Strauss. e and Str

KONZERTHAUS 5 Apr. Pianist Ciobanu performs Enescu, Mussorgski and others.

25 Apr: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Kitajenko) performs Prokofiev, Shostakowitsch and more.

Pop, Rock, Jazz TEMPODROM 1 Apr: Loreena McKennitt, Lost Souls-Tour.

Dance, Musicals, Cabaret, Variety STAATSBALLETT 4, 22, 26 Apr: La Sylphide at Deutsche Oper.

5, 6 Apr: Onegin at Staatsoper.

CHAMÄLEON VARIETE All month: Memories of Fools.

FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST All month: VIVID Grand Show

ADMIRALSPALAST 3-7 Apr: BEAT IT! The musical about the King of Pop

WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ All month: Let’s Twist Again Rockability hits & acrobatics

TIPI AM KANZLERAMT 16-21 Apr: Ennio Marchetto, The Living Paper Cartoon, Vol. 2.

MERCEDES-BENZARENA 4 Apr: Bob Dylan and his band live.

Quick-change artist Ennio Marchetto is back at Tipi am Kanzleramt with his many paper costumes.

ce

The Biggest Spring Funfair in Berlin and Brandenburg

Fireworks on March 30 and April 13 On-Site Parking www.svbev.de

OLGA NEUWIRTH @ HARALD HOFFMANN

an Free Entr

PHILHARMONIE 25, 28 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Mehta) perform Verdi.

Our roundup of the best shows happening this month.

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ENTERTAINMENT to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de.

Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases.

Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019.

S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de.

Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550.

S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de.

Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13.

T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de.

Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30.

T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. www.wheretraveler.com 31

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ENTERTAINMENT

Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history.

Berlin has a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity. The German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics.

BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra.

The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg. THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“

“HEROES” 1977 Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin.

THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was

released on 1977’s Lust For Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz.

HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“ ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as

“We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time.

CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity.

Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.”

A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick In the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former noman’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.

©ISTOCK

ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954 Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das

War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute.

In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.

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ENTERTAINMENT T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de.

Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de.

Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.

Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. www.chamaeleonberlin.de.

Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590.

S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world,

Quasimodo

Neuköllner Oper

One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr.

12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood.

A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night.

English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de.

Karl-Marx-Str. 131–133.

T: 030 68890777.

U-Karl-Marx-Straße.Off map.

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153.

U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne

A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center offers plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de.

Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Blue Man Group

Wintergarten Varieté

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check

4 – 14 April 2019

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184.

T: 030.48623186.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Archaeology of the Present

this is Berlin’s most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

SO36

Festival International New Drama

This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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WOHIN AM ABEND AUSG AUF E H TIPP D EUT S SC H E NTE RTAI IN GE NMEN T R MA N

Aprilfrische Spektakel

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D

rinnen schon zu warm, draußen noch zu kalt – der April weiß bekanntermaßen nicht was er will. Zumindest auf den Berliner Bühnen nimmt man’s leicht.

Vier Monate nach Silvester ist der April so etwas wie ein zweites „Zwischen-den-Jahren“: nicht mehr richtig Winter, dafür aber gerne mit Schnee an Ostern und tags darauf beschert er einem den ersten zarten Sonnenbrand. Wenig verwunderlich also, dass diesen Monat auch ein Hauch von zauberhaftem Irrsinn über die Berliner Bühnen weht. So verwandelt sich das Tipi am Kanzleramt (Große Querallee, www. tipi-am-kanzleramt.de, 11. und 12. April) in ein Indianerzelt – wenn nämlich Rainald Grebe zu seinem Wigwamkonzert einlädt. Der Liedermacher besang bereits Bundesländer,

Familienbande und Autobahntoiletten – ein bisschen Wahnsinn muss man mit ihm schon aushalten. Doch der vermeintliche Klamauk ist gut beobachtet und beschert wohl dosierten Tiefgang. Begleitet wird Grebe von der „Kapelle der Versöhnung“ zu Evergreens und Songs aus dem neuen Album „Albanien“.

Höllische Idylle hat Juli Zeh wiederum in Unterleuten notiert. Das fiktive Dorf in Brandenburg basiert auf ihrem gleichnamigen Roman und steht in der Komödie am Kurfürstendamm im Schiller Theater (Bismarckstr. 110, www.komoedie-berlin.de, ab 28. April) auf dem Spielplan. Der Stoff dreht sich an der Oberfläche um ein Dorf und das Geschäft mit einem lukrativen Windpark. Darunter lauert eine bitterböse wie kluge Beobachtung jener

dörflichen Charaktere und Mächte, die die einen endgültig in die Großstadt fliehen lassen und andere wiederum in den Berliner Speckgürtel locken.

Faszinierend surreal wird es hingegen auf den Brettern der Volksbühne (Linienstraße 227, www.volksbuehne.berlin, am 19. und 20. April).

Die isländischen Theaterschaffenden Thorleifur Örn Arnarsson und Mikael Torfason bringen den nordischen Urstoff Edda nach Berlin. Hier trifft Epos auf Gaga, das karussellartige Bühnenbild versammelt skurrile und manchmal schaurige Helden, Göttinnen und Verräter zwischen Erschaffung und Untergang der Welt. Musik und Licht machen aus dem preisgekrönten märchenhaft-bizarren Spiel einen eingängigen Abend zwischen Performancekunst und Drama.

SYLVIA LUNDSCHIEN

XXXXXXXXX COURTESY OF TIPI AM KANZLERAMT

Tipi am Kanzleramt

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English-language listings continue on page 37

BÜHNEN Berliner Ensemble Eine der renommiertesten Bühnen Deutschlands.

Neben Stücken von Gründer Bertolt Brecht stehen weitere Theaterklassiker und aktuelle gesellschaftliche Themen auf dem Spielplan.

Zudem gibt es Führungen von Werner Riemann, der seit über 50 Jahren im Haus tätig ist und Brechts Frau, Helene Weigel, noch persönlich kannte.www.berliner-ensemble.de.

Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1. T: 030 28408155.

S+U Friedrichstraße. U Oranienburger Tor. E3

Berliner Kriminal Theater Messer, Gift oder Schlinge - sie sind das häufigste Mittel, um einen Mord zu begehen. Krimi-Fans wird im Umspannwerk Ost in Friedrichshain der Atem stocken. Auch Stücke des Bestsellerautors Sebastian Fitzek werden hier aufgeführt. www.kriminaltheater.de. Palisadenstraße 48.

T: 030 47997488. U Weberwiese. G3

Berliner Schnauze „Komm’se ran, jetzt fängt dit Theater an!“ So begrüßt Marga Bach ihr Publikum im Mundartund Comedy-Theater. Die Kabarettistin und Sängerin gründete das Theater „Berliner Schnauze“, damit der Berliner Dialekt nicht ausstirbt. Jeder, der den frechen Dialekt liebt, hat hier was zu Lachen. www.berliner-schnauzetheater.com. Karl-Marx-Allee 133.

T: 030 42020434. U Weberwiese. G3

Deutsches Theater Wirft man einen Blick auf den Spielplan des Deutschen Theaters, fallen sofort Größen wie Brecht und Goethe ins Auge. Neben Klassikern findet hier auch zeitgenössisches Autorentheater den Weg auf die Bühne. Die Stücke werden auf drei Bühnen inszeniert: Im Großen Haus, im Kammerspiel sowie in der Blackbox im Foyer. www.deutschestheater.de. Schumannstraße 13A. T: 030 28441225. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Distel Seit 65 Jahren zeigt das in Deutschland legendäre Kabarett-Theater politische Satire. Die Bühne befindet sich im Vorderhaus des Admiralspalastes, das Publikum setzt sich aus allen Gesellschaftsschichten zusammen. www.distel-berlin.de. Friedrichstraße 101.

T: 030 2044704. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Grips Theater Politische Themen im Kinder- und Jugendtheater?

FÜR AN

WOHIN AM ABEND

Das Grips Theater setzt diese gekonnt um.

Seit vielen Jahren schon werden hier aus den Problemen, Themen und Bedürfnissen des jungen Publikums Geschichten entwickelt. Die Komödien werden oft musikalisch begleitet und sollen Kindern und Jugendlichen Mut machen. www.grips-theater.de Altonaer Straße 22.

T: 030 39747477. U Hansaplatz. C3

Kleines Theater am Südwestkorso Wer es gemütlich mag, sollte das Kleine Theater besuchen. Alle Stücke sind Erstaufführungen, darunter auch unterhaltsam-musikalische Hommagen. In unmittelbarer Nähe befinden sich Ateliers, Galerien sowie das Grab von Marlene Dietrich auf dem Friedhof in der Stubenrauchstraße. www.kleines-theater.de.

Südwestkorso 64. T: 030 8212021.

U Rüdesheimer Platz. S+U Bundesplatz. C5

Komödie am Kurfürstendamm Die Bühne in der City West ist für zahlreiche Film- und Fernsehschauspieler, aber auch Musiker und Entertainer zur zweiten Heimat geworden.

Trotz des Umzuges in das Übergangsquartier im Schillertheater bleibt die Komödie am Kurfürstendamm eines der niveauvollsten Unterhaltungstheater Deutschlands. www.komoedie-berlin.de Bismarckstraße 110.

T: 030 88591188. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Maxim Gorki Theater In diesem international ausgerichteten Haus sollen Menschen zusammenkommen – unabhängig von ihrer Herkunft, Religion und Identität. Ziel ist es, im Zusammentreffen soziale wie kulturelle Konflikte sowie politische und ökonomische Krisen zu reflektieren. Alle Inszenierungen sind ab der zweiten Vorstellung mit englischen Übertiteln versehen. www.gorki.de. Am Festungsgraben 2.

T: 030 20221115. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Monbijou-Theater In drei Holzhütten mit rustikalem Charme werden im Winter Märchenklassiker der Gebrüder Grimm und Hans Christian Andersen für die ganze Familie aufgeführt. Nach der Vorstellung kann man in der hauseignen Pizzeria essen und sich mit einem heißen Getränk aufwärmen. Im Sommer wird im Amphitheater unter freiem Himmel das Publikum zum Lachen gebracht. www.monbijou-theater.de.

Monbijoustraße 3. T: 030 288866999.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neuste Kabarett-Komödie Kabarett-Theater DISTEL

www.distel-berlin.de | Kasse: 204 47 04

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Neuköllner Oper Der Komponist und Kirchenmusiker Winfried Radeke gründete 1973 die Neuköllner Oper mit

Bitterböser Thriller trifft zarte Romanze: „Der Kaufmann von Venedig“ ist wohl William Shakespeares düsterste Komödie.

Zum Leben erweckt wird das Stück von der Shakespeare Company inmitten des frühlingsgrünen Natur-Park Schöneberger Südgelände. Bei schönem Wetter geht’s auf die Freiluftbühne, bei Regen in den Lokschuppen. www.gruen-berlin.de/natur-parksuedgelaende

©ISTOCK

IKO FREESE / DRAMA-BERLIN.DE

Bitte nicht lachen!

HIGHLIGHT

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der Absicht, ernsthafte Unterhaltung mit gutem Humor zu verbinden. Von der Barockoper bis zum Musical, von der Operette hin zum experimentellen Musiktheater ist alles dabei. Mit 160 Uraufführungen in nur 36 Jahren ist es das produktivste Musiktheater Europas. www. neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 131-133.

T: 030 68890777. U Karl-Marx-Straße.

U Rathaus Neukölln. Außerhalb der Karte.

Renaissance Theater Das Renaissance Theater ist das einzige vollständig erhaltene Art-Déco-Theater Europas und steht daher unter Denkmalschutz. Autoren wie Bertolt Brecht oder Arnolt Bronnen fielen hier durch ihre provokanten Stücke auf. Aber auch internationale Autoren feiern in diesem Theater die Uraufführungen ihrer Werke. www. renaissance-theater.de. Knesebeckstraße 100.

T: 030 3159730. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Schaubude Berlin Zu alt fürs Puppentheater? Definitiv nicht, denn in der Schaubude Berlin werden Stücke des Puppen-, Figuren- und Objekttheaters für jedes Alter gespielt. Um dieses Genre der Theaterkunst den Kindern näher zu bringen, kooperiert die Schaubude mit Schulen und Kitas. www. schaubude.berlin. Greifswalder Straße 81-84.

T: 030 4234314. S Greifswalder Straße. G1

Theater an der Parkaue Das Repertoire des Theaters richtet sich an Kinder, Jugendliche, Schulklassen, junge Erwachsene sowie Familien. Gezeigt werden nicht nur Märchen, bekannte Stücke oder Klassiker, sondern das Theater bietet auch Workshops, Theaterclubs oder eine jährlich stattfindende Winterakademie an. www.parkaue.de. Parkaue 29. T: 030 55775252.

S+U Frankfurter Allee.

Theater unterm Dach

Bestandteil des Programms. www.wuehlmaeuse. de. Pommernallee 2-4. T: 030 30673011.

U Theodor-Heuss-Platz. A1

Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz In dem alten Kinogebäude am Kurfürstendamm werden moderne Klassiker inszeniert, die das Publikum zum Nachdenken anregen. Für internationale Gäste werden auch Stücke mit englischen und französischen Übertiteln gespielt. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153.

T: 030 890023. U Adenauerplatz. C4

KINOS Astor Film Lounge Ein Kino mit Klasse. Hier treffen moderne Stile und Art Déco aufeinander. Versinken Sie in bequemen Ledersesseln und lassen sich vom exzellenten Kinoprogramm und Service verwöhnen. www.berlin.astor-filmlounge.de. Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 8838551. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yorck Kino Das Gründungskino der Yorck-Gruppe befindet sich in Kreuzberg und repräsentiert das, wofür alle Yorck-Häuser stehen: Kino der stilvollen Art. Gezeigt werden hier nicht nur Arthousefilme und US-Produktionen, sondern vormittags laufen Kita- und Schulprogramme. Viele Filme werden auch auf Englisch gezeigt. www.yorck.de.

Yorckstraße 86. T: 030 78913240. U Mehringdamm.

E4

Zoo Palast Im November 2013 wurde der restaurierte Zoo Palast wiedereröffnet und macht in sieben Sälen sowie Logen mit Bedienservice den neusten Kinofilm zu einem wunderbaren Erlebnis. Kein Wunder also, dass im Zoo Palast auch die Berlinale zuhause ist und internationale Stars wie Tom

Hanks, Jodie Foster oder James Stewart bei Premierenfeiern über den roten Teppich flanieren. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergstraße 29A. T 0180 5222966. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

VERANSTALTUNGSORTE Radialsystem Wer schon einmal über die Spree geschippert ist, kam dabei vielleicht auch am Radialsystem vorbei.

Das im Jahre 1881 erbaute Pumpwerk liegt direkt am Flussufer. Durch seine großen Fenster wird die prunkvolle Backsteingotik mit Licht geflutet.

Regelmäßig treten hier Tanz- und Gesangsensembles auf. www.radialsystem.de.

Holzmarktstraße 33. T: 030 28878850. S Berlin Ostbahnhof. G3

Hebbel am Ufer In den drei Häusern HAU1, HAU2 und HAU3 präsentiert das Hebbel am Ufer Tanz, Theater und Performances. Sie verfügen über kein eigenes Ensemble, sondern stellen die Spielstätten für Festivals, Gastspiele und Koproduktionen zur Verfügung. Dabei sind bildende Kunst, Musik und theoretische Debatten feste Bestandteile des Programms. www.hebel-am-ufer.de.

Stresemannstraße 29. T: 030 25900427.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Heimathafen Neukölln Einfach, direkt und für jeden zugänglich – so das Selbstverständnis des Volkstheaters. Die Leitung bringt unter dem Motto „Wir sind Volkstheater“ neuinszenierte Stücke von Alt-Berlinern in Form von Poetry-Slams, Lesungen, Konzerten und vielem mehr auf die Bühne. Ein Crossover der Genres, Kulturen und Stile. www.heimathafenneukoelln.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 141. T: 030 56821333. U Karl-Marx-Straße.

Außerhalb der Karte.

Zusammen mit der Wabe befindet sich das Theater unterm Dach im kulturellen Zentrum des Ernst-Thälmann-Parks. Sowohl etablierte Regisseure sowie Stücke von Nachwuchskünstlern werden hier ins Programm aufgenommen.

Professionalität und Themenoffenheit sind der Leitsatz der Spielstätte. www.theateruntermdachberlin.de. Danziger Straße 101.

T: 030 902953817. S Greifswalder Straße. G1

Tipi am Kanzleramt Das große Zelt im Tiergarten bietet ein umfangreiches Programm an Musicals, Magie, Kabarett, Tanz und Theater in Verbindung mit der hauseigenen, anspruchsvollen Küche. Ein Genuss für Augen, Ohren und Gaumen! Viele der Shows sind jedoch nur auf Deutsch. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T:030 39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne Die Volksbühne vereint bildende Kunst, digitale Kultur, Kino, Musik, Performance, Tanz und Theater in einem Haus. Das durch den Zweiten Weltkrieg fast vollständig zerstörte Theater wurde zu Beginn der 1950er Jahre wieder aufgebaut.

Einige Stücke gibt es mit englischen Übertiteln. www.volksbuehne.berlin. Linienstraße 227.

T: 030 24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Die Wühlmäuse Wer die Wühlmäuse besucht, geht mit einem Muskelkater vom Lachen hinaus. Das 1960 von Dieter Hallervorden gegründete Kabarett-Theater verzeichnet regelmäßigen Bühnenbesuch von Dieter Nuhr, Ingo Appelt oder Heinz Rudolf Kunze. Auch Konzerte und Lesungen sind fester

HIGHLIGHT

LESUNG AM 23. APRIL

Goldtstück

Die Kunst der Abschweifung beherrscht Max Goldt genauso perfekt wie seine Rollen als Schriftsteller, Musiker, Literaturpreisträger und Vollzeit-Polemiker. Im April wird er zum Vorleser - im Schloßpark Theater erörtert er seine mal provokanten, mal urkomischen Werke. www.schlossparktheater.de, Lesung am 23. April

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Food For Skin

COURTESY OF DR HAUSCHKA

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t’s a well known fact that Germans love natural products, and this applies to cosmetics as well. Most German customers will carefully read the labels of any lotion for chemical ingredients, and they’ll look for the product’s rating, which usually refers to both quality and sustainability.

Drugstores such as DM and Rossmann carry popular organic brands such as Lavera and Weleda, all naturally scented, fairly priced, and guaranteed not to be harmful to you or the environment; but if you are into luxury skincare products, such as Clinique or Estée Lauder, you will find similar luxury in the German pharmacies (Apotheken), which sell trusted brands that are slightly cheaper than their more famous counterparts but just as effective.

One of these brands is Dr. Hauschka (www.dr.hauschka.com), which makes 100%-natural skin-care products and makeup using luxurious ingredients set inside low-key, old-school packaging, perfectly befitting a pharmacy shelf.

Another German brand, Eucerin (www. eucerin.de) applies scientific methods to produce effective and reliable solutions for skin problems, while its parent company Beiersdorf is dedicated to delivering a holistic “dermocosmetic” approach.

Most pharmacies will also stock renowned French brands Avène (www.eau-thermale-

avene.com) and La Roche-Posay (www. laroche-posay.com), both of which feature products derived from their own thermal springs, where the water is tested regularly to ensure purity. Cult favorites include the Avène hydrating mist (a thermal water spray) and La Roche-Posay’s Cicaplast Baume B5, said to work wonders on curing all sorts of skin irritation. Avène has also established its own Hydrotherapy Center in its namesake town, but you don’t need to go that far: just go around the corner to your local Apotheke.

BY THE WHERE TEAM

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin’s west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

A design store in the trendy district of Prenzlauer Berg, Ting sells stylish home décor items and accessories handpicked from Scandinavia and Asia. Products such as towels with birch tree designs, hexagonal brass-colored vases, alpaca scarves, and earrings by Nor all help give this shop its distinctive Nordic feel, with bright colors and patterns set against minimalist, functional furnishings.

Designer Outlet Berlin

Rykestr. 14. T: 030 53796506. www.ting-shop.com

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children’s world and expansive gourmet section, there’s truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an

extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you’re short on time, the

COURTESY OF TING

Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Worldly Inspirations

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr.

21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects.

Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of “non-colors” such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you’re cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder’s paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

& Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41.

T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO

SHOPPING

man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin.

Direct entrance from Voßstraße.

T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world’s top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

T: 0800.3300996.

U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban Boots & Shoes The Ku'damm was West hubs around the globe. Their Berlin With their air-cushioned sole, Berlin's most important flagship store has three floors shopping strip during lace-up style, and yellow stitching, of quality basics and fashion for the Cold War. the popular Doc Martens boots women, men, and children. launched in the UK in 1960 was based www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. on a prototype by German army doctor T: 030 29028260.

Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print.

S Hackescher Markt. F3 Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by Wellensteyn many other brands round off the offering. www.

Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for 38-50. T: 030.92031876. quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. well as other items for the outdoor life.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.

Falke Flagship Store Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186.

This legwear shop caters to both men and U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3 warm. They also have a good selection of sports Wormland accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ This men’s boutique carries the best German and socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; international brands, catering to a demanding ADVERTORIAL

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/.

Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933.

S Savignyplatz. B4

COURTESY OF FRAU TONIS

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce

Scent-sational Fragrances Would you like to capture the scent of Unter den Linden? Visit Berlin’s most beautiful perfumery, Frau Tonis Parfum, and try their fresh and floral fragrance, No. 10 Linde Berlin, inspired by the famous boulevard and its lime trees. A “mecca for perfume aficionados” according to Vogue Germany, this Berlin-based perfumery carries extraordinary perfumes such as No. 33 Vild, with notes of thyme, raspberry, and wild leather, but also classics like No. 37 Violet, which is based on Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance back in the 1920s. Scent aficionados can also create their own individual perfume here.

Zimmerstraße 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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CORAL POWER Living Coral is the Pantone Color of the Year!

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BY RUNQI LIN 1. Skiny, Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9.

2. Swarovski, Boulevard Berlin, Schloßstr. 7–10.

3. Esprit, Boulevard Berlin, Schloßstr. 7–10 4. Hunter, Tatem, Oranienburger Str. 32.

5. Hunter, Tatem, Oranienburger Str. 32.

6. Doppler, Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9.

7. Skiny, Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9.

8. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Pl. 12.

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SHOPPING Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12.

T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

EXPLORE ALEX A SHOPPING CENTER

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

A L E X A AT A L E X A N D E R P L AT Z M O - SA 1 0 a m - 9 p m NEW FOOD COURT

Unützer

MORE THAN 170 SHOPS, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168.

T: 030.8815671.

U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3 The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

©ISTOCK

Frau Tonis Parfum

®

Parfumsalon

Berlin

An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop’s selection include rarities and special aromas,

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SHOPPING all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR bauhaus-shop

Annette Görtz’s spring/summer collection is both casual and elegant (www. annettegoertz.net).

The Bauhaus school of the 1920s focused on functional and iconic design, redefining artistic creativity and manufacturing. Here you can discover a range of Bauhaus objects and products by the designers of the time. Located in the temporary bauhaus-archiv in Charlottenburg. www.bauhausshop.de. Knesebeckstr. 1–2. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844.

U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com.

Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yves Delorme Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brandnew set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware and baby items for the everyday and special occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com.

Kurfürstendamm 51. T: 030.88724777.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße.

F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685.

S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

BOOKS & MUSIC

FOOD & GOURMET

Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus

Läderach

Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books.

With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques: in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße.

Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679. G4 Friedrichstr. 81.

T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com. C3

Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36.

continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 8am–6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de.

Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Marheineke Markthalle

Rausch Schokoladenhaus

One of the main market halls over 100 years ago

This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

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As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de.

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443.

U Stadtmitte. E3

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

SHOPPING BIKINI BERLIN is not only a historical landmark, but the world’s first concept shopping mall with a unique selection of local brands, curated boutiques and gastro offers. Featuring views into the neighboring zoo and design curated hang-out spots, it’s wonderful to wander.

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

POP-UP’s BIKINI BERLIN features an everchanging selection of local designers and new brands by offering temporary popup spaces that can be rented for short periods of time.

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de.

Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080.

U Französische Straße. E3

Winterfeldt Schokoladen The chocolate shop/café’s gorgeous wooden interior dates back to 1892, when the space was still a pharmacy. Sample gourmet hot chocolates and stock up on chocolates from around the globe. Daily B&L. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen. de. Goltzstr. 23 T: 030.23623256.

U Nollendorfplatz, U Eisenacher Straße. D4

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17.

T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Outfit by Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Pl. 12.

KANTINI FOODMARKET This Foodmarket serves culinary delights from over 10 different countries and follows the trend of healthy food, sustainable ingredients and uncomplicated enjoyment.

BIKINI BERLIN Budapesterstraße 38-50 10787 Berlin www.bikiniberlin.de bikiniberlin

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West.

Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home.

Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com

W

TOP PICK

GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE

The church’s bombed-out tower was restored to its present state in 1957 and has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since. The old church’s ruins host an exhibition documenting the cathedral’s former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the air raids.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030 2185023 www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de S+U Zoologischer Garten www.wheretraveler.com 45

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MALL OF BERLIN

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Berlin

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FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

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Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Annette Görtz Store Berlin

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This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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DINING

This photo and below: Chicago Williams

Smoked Meat And Sticky Fingers

O

Berg (Oderbergerstr. 61) is kitty-corner from the Kulturbrauerei, not far from Mauerpark.

It does Central Texas-style barbecue with lots of salt and pepper, sauce optional, allowing the deep smoked meat flavor to shine. Tip: Try the extra-delicious smoked pastrami. As a bonus, there are 10 beers on tap and a Nintendo for the kids.

At Lino’s in Wedding (Malplaquestr. 43), Houston-born Lino also employs the salt-and-pepper style. His “Texas trinity” is a platter of juicy brisket, pork ribs, and homemade jalapeño sausage. The beef is

JOE STANGE

XXXXXXXXX

COURTESY OF CHICAGO WILLIAMS

bviously, Germany is no stranger to smoked ham or grilled sausage, but there are places popping up in Berlin now that smoke meat using regional American techniques—meat cooked slowly with indirect heat, with smoke, until tender.

This style of cooking is treasured in Memphis, Kansas City, Texas, and the Carolinas, and each region has its own way of doing it. What they all share is time: this is slow food that takes hours and hours, but the results are worth it.

Bird Barbecue, a restaurant in Prenzlauer

U.S. Black Angus while the pork is from a German breed called Schwäbisch Hall— unusually fat, thus ideal for smoking.

Chicago Williams calls their food “Berlin-style BBQ” and gets inspiration from Brooklyn, of all places. Purists may raise their eyebrows, but the result is unpretentious, tasty, and open-minded—consider the tasty combination of smoked chicken and waffles (though their ribs and pastrami are also popular). Good beers too, though they don’t fuss over them. In Mitte, near Oranienburger Tor (Hannoversche Str. 2).

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DINING

Recommended by Berlin's concierge association, Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€.

Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

FINE DINING

Jolly

For a complete list of Berlin’s Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a.

T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760.

U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com.

Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620.

S Landsberger Allee. H2 PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHICAGO WILLIAMS

ASIAN

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com.

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26.

T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17.

T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone’s throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30.

T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna’s famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850.

U Französische Straße. E3

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

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Altes Zollhaus

Berlin

German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300.

U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins

reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4.

T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

The Gallery German. Chef Lena König from TV show “The Taste” combines traditional German cuisine with the culinary diversity of Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, specializing in German tapas made from regional ingredients. Located at Mercedes Platz, Berlin’s new “party mile” built around the existing Mercedes-Benz Arena, it’s the perfect bite before your show. Daily L&D. www.mercedes-platz.de.

Mühlenstr. 13-19. T: 030 29772060.

S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other

additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de.

Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

When it comes to Berlin’s iconic monuments, the KaDeWe department store in the west end has to be up there near the top of the list. A symbol of luxury and consumerism ever since it first opened in 1907, the enormous emporium (full name: Kaufhaus des Westens) is known not only for its luxury shopping, but also its expansive offering of gourmet delights. Ride up to the 6th floor to discover not only a gourmet supermarket, but also an exquisite patisserie section, plus restaurant counters preparing fresh sushi and sashimi, grilled lobster, traditional Neapolitan pizza, and so much more. Perhaps most famous is the oyster bar that serves around 7000 of the delicious molluscs each week. English, Scottish, and Irish oyster varieties are shucked before your eyes, plus deluxe French options like the Tsarsakaya, said to be a favorite of the Russian czars, and La Perle Noir, a rare treat from the Normandy coast. Pull up a stool at the bar and pair your plate of plump beauties with a flute of crisp champagne.

Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.21212053. www.kadewe.de

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€.

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Hallowed Halls

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10.

T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

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DINING Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828.

U Französische Straße. E3

OTHER

köpenicker str. 16 | 17 kreuzberg

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de.

Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Kantine Deluxe International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2.

T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3.

T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls.

Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€.

Mon–Sat B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini.

Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455.

S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

www.spindlerklatt.berlin

thu - sat from 7 pm

0

Rio GrandeAme International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de.

May-Ayim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981.

Schlesisches Tor. G4

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher

Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de.

Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Z Modern Greek There’s nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece’s traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€.

Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12.

T: 030.6922716.

S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

Servus Bavaria!

Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€.

Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

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NIGHTLIFE

This photo: Arminius Markthalle; inset, below: Markthalle Neun.

S

ure, you can visit a market hall for its original purpose and buy food to eat on the spot or take home. Or you can treat a market hall as your new favorite bar and hang around for great beer and wine. Before the wars, there were more than a dozen market halls scattered around Berlin where locals would stock up on fresh produce. Today, only three of those original markets are still in operation. They offer much more than fruits, veggies, and butchers.

In Kreuzberg north of Görlitzer Bahnhof, Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 42-43, www.markthalleneun.de) is the best known market hall. It’s home to the Heidenpeters brewery tap, with changing draught ales from aromatic IPAs to dark, rich stouts.

Oenophiles may prefer Monsieur Collard, a French-style wine counter with good

cheeses and an oyster bar; or Suff Weinhandlung, which keeps at least 30 wines ready for tasting by the glass.

Generally the hall is shut Sun-Mon, open to 8pm other days, and to 10pm for its popular Street Food Thursdays.

In Moabit north of Turmstraße, red-brick Arminiusmarkthalle (Arminiusstr. 2-4, www. arminiusmarkthalle.com) takes up a whole city block. The Brewbaker brewery is a few blocks away, but its official tap is here, at the Hofladen’s bar, with several beers on draught and its tart Berliner weisse in bottles. Just across the way, café Thussi & Armin has a dedicated Pilsner Urquell bar with fresh, unpasteurized tank beer from Plzen; it also runs the Weinzeit shop and bar, specialising in

Franconian wines. The hall is shut Sundays and open to 10pm the rest of the week.

Finally, in Bergmannkiez, cozy Marheineke Markthalle (Marheinekepl.

15, www.meine-markthalle.de) boasts a few stands that specialize in regionally specific wine and nibbles: Alimentari e Vini (Italian), Cava Club (Spanish), and Le Bretagne (French).

The hall is shut Sundays; open Saturdays to 6pm, and the rest of the week until 8pm. Or for an even more Berlin experience, the attached Marktwirtschaft is a proper Kiezkneipe—unpretentious neighbourhood pub—with inexpensive drinks and later hours (to midnight).

JOE STANGE

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Food Hall Drinks

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ENTERTAINMENT

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de.

Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649.

U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9.

T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homey cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options.

Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de.

Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Discover Europe’s capital of nightlife

CLUBS Traffic Club

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station.

Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com.

Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3.

T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

©ISTOCK

COURTESY OF ARMINIUS MARKTHALLE AND MARKTHALLE NEUN. THIS PAGE: © ISTOCK.

A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial.

Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com.

Alexanderstr. 7. G4

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ESSENTIALS Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 to Hauptbahnhof and and S45 to Südkreuz run every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr.

Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy

a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive.

Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn. de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel.

Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices.

THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm.

A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

© ISTOCK

USEFUL INFORMATION

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MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 27. Februar 2019 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) BVG-016.19

ESSENTIALS

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My

PERFECT DAY Vincent Garcia CHEF In 2010, French-born chef Vincent Garcia opened his own restaurant in the heart of West Berlin, and people keep pouring in to taste his new takes on French classics.

Where do you find inspiration for your food?

In the old recipes of my home country, France, in the recipes of my family, and in the various offerings at the wholesale markets and fresh goods specialty shops. I also find inspiration through my deep friendship with Shuji Ozeki, a chef from the city of Seki in Japan. When we first met, a true friendship developed because we “click” on the same wavelength. Despite the distance, we visit each other regularly and cook JapaneseFrench fusion cuisine together for our guests.

It is always different, very inspiring, and surprising to bring our two visions together.

What is the culinary concept at Pastis?

We offer French bistro cuisine with all the classics that Auguste Escoffier described in Le guide culinaire. We serve old recipes from my family, like my grandmother’s Bouillabaisse à Marsellaise, from my hometown, Marseille. I particularly enjoy working with fish and crustaceans. We also have our own patisserie and serve fresh cakes and desserts every day.

The majority of our guests are regulars who come by for lunch or dinner and feel at home with us. That makes us very happy of course and shows us that we are on the right track.

Clockwise from this image: Lake Wannsee; Vincent Garcia; restaurant Pastis; one of Garcia’s desserts.

Where do you eat when you have a day off and don’t feel like cooking?

Unfortunately you don’t have much time off when you’re a chef and own a restaurant, but when I do have time I like to eat at La Vucciria (Rüdesheimer Str. 8), which offers very good Sicilian cuisine. I also enjoy going to Prenzlauer Berg to visit Kochu Karu (Eberswalder Str. 35 ) for their Korean-Spanish fusion cuisine.

What neighborhood do you live in, and what is a favorite spot there?

I don’t live far from our restaurant, and I really like our green, residential area. In summer, I especially enjoy the Weinbrunnen am Rüdesheimer Platz park café, with its

traditional wine tavern. It’s a good place to meet up with friends, relax with a good glass of wine in the park under the old trees, and get to know some nice Berlin neighbors.

Imagine you have the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

I would start off at one of the great brunch restaurants in the city, like Cafe Die Stulle (www.die-stulle.com, Carmerstr. 10). Then I would take the S-Bahn from there to the Wannsee docks and buy a ticket for an excursion boat to the city center, relaxing on the upper deck in the sun with a cool drink from the on-board bar and enjoying views of the water and the forest – it’s wonderful.

VINCENT GARCIA AND DESSERT: PHOTO BY DIRK TONN; WANNSEE: © ISTOCK; RESTAURANT INTERIOR: COURTESY OF PASTIS.

What brought you to Berlin?

By chance I saw an ad in France looking for a chef in Berlin, and so in 1987, just before the fall of the Berlin Wall, I came to Berlin for the first time to work at Heising. After that, I worked at several restaurants in Berlin and in France, including Hotel Adlon, Opernpalais, and Ganymed, until my wife Adeline and I found the small restaurant on Rüdesheimer Platz, completely redesigned it and reopened it as Pastis in 2010.

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 9

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