Where Guestbook Hawaii Kauai 2017-18

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KAUA‘I

KAUA‘I GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i will release on all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2017-2018, including O‘ahu, Maui and Hawai‘i Island. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic aerial image as the cover art. These books are designed to ®

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and artistic manner. We hope you enjoy the book as

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island, and to tell the stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging

O‘AHU 2018

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much as we took pleasure in writing about Hawai‘i’s ISLAND

KAUA‘I 2018

HAWAI‘I ISLAND 2018

HAWAI‘I

KAUA‘I

treasures, places and people.

KAUA‘I CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENCE 24 PEAK INTEREST SACRED SUMMITS Enjoy an aerial perspective of the island through the lens of a talented photographer.

PLANTATION HISTORY Affectionately known as the “Biggest Little Town on Kaua‘i,” Hanapēpē enjoys a storied past.

BY CAMERON BROOKS

BY CHERYL CHEE TSUTSUMI

32 ADORNED WITH LOVE HAWAIIAN JEWELRY The tradition of giving and receiving Hawaiian heirloom jewelry dates back to 13th century England.

BY KRISTEN NEMOTO JAY

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38 TOWN & COUNTRY

ON THE COVER Visible only from above, some of Kaua‘i’s most secluded beaches on the North Shore are guarded by towering, jagged sea cliffs. ©CAMERON BROOKS INSIDE FRONT COVER (From left) ©Zach Pezzillo ©EpicStockMedia/Shutterstock

KAUA‘I CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENTIALS 12 NAVIGATE KAUA‘I MAP An overview of the island.

16 DATEBOOK ANNUAL EVENTS A calendar of events that includes yearly food festivals and a celebration in Waimea.

18 FIRST LOOK KAUA‘I’S ATTRACTIONS The Garden Isle offers some spectacular scenes.

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48 ISLAND VIEWS KAUA‘I’S REGIONS No two parts of Kaua‘i are alike.

LĪHU‘E: Kaua‘i’s capital city is also served by the island’s only airport.

KALĀHEO: Be sure to check out the National Tropical Botanical Garden.

COCONUT COAST: Comprised of the town Kapa‘a and Wailua.

WAILUA RIVER: This is the only navigable river in Hawai‘i.

PO‘IPŪ: The beaches here rank among the best in the nation.

PRINCEVILLE: This North Shore enclave is a popular destination.

WAI’ALE’ALE CRATER: Waterfalls create a “weeping” effect.

KŌLOA: Home to Hawai‘i’s first commercial sugar plantation.

KĪLAUEA: Visit the Wildlife Refuge.

60 PARTING SHOT SCENIC COASTLINE Kaua‘i’s Nāpali coast stretches along 15 miles of rugged terrain that lead to spectacular views.

SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE Learn about the island’s vibrant dining scene, from sweet passion fruit and chocolate to oodles of noodles and beyond.

› Kayak Adventures ‹ › Ancient River Kayak ‹ › Rainbow Kayak Tours ‹ Kayak 2 miles along the tropical waterways of the Wailua River.

Hike 1 mile through a lush forest.

Learn Hawaiian history, flora & fauna.

Enjoy lunch & experience a secluded 120 ft waterfall.

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Horizon Pendant with Lapis Inlay and Pavé Diamonds

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry KAUAI Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai OAHU • MAUI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2016

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NAVIGATE

THE NORTHERNMOST OF THE EIGHT MAJOR ISLANDS in the Hawaiian chain, Kaua‘i is also

the oldest. The island is nearly circular in shape, 32 miles in diameter and covers an area of 550 square miles. Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, once the volcanic heart of Kaua‘i, stands more than 5,000 feet high in the center of the island. A series of peaks and valleys fans out around this point, creating some of the most spectacular scenery in the Pacific.

Most of the island’s population lives in towns close to the coast or in one of the lush valleys a 12

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few miles inland. The major road is designated Highway 56 (Kūhiō Highway) north of Līhu‘e, the county seat and business center. To the south and west, it is Highway 50 (Kaumuali‘i Highway).

The north shore, with picturesque Nāpali Coast, is Kaua‘i’s beauty spot. On the east side are the Wailua River and the busy tourist center of Kapa‘a. Po‘ipū, on the sunny south shore, is home to resorts and great beaches. On the west side of the island is the geologic wonder of Waimea Canyon.

©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

The Island of Kaua‘i

Collection available exclusively at Na Hoku

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry KAUAI Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai OAHU • MAUI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2016

HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2017

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2017

NAVIGATE

Ni‘ihau The “forbidden” island is known for exquisite shell jewelry.

Kaua‘i Magnificent sea cliffs and canyons distinguish the Garden Isle.

O‘ahu Known for Waikīkī beach, the state capital, shopping, Pearl Harbor and more.

Moloka‘i You’ll find Old Hawai‘i charm, mule rides and famous Moloka‘i bread.

Lāna‘i Lovely Mānele Bay has posh resorts and pine-studded uplands.

Maui Come to the Valley Isle for whale-watching, art, Mt. Haleakalā and the 54-bridge Hāna Highway.

Kaho‘olawe Once a Navy firing range, the island is now dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian culture.

Hawai‘i Hawai’i Island has an active volcano and wonderfully diverse scenery.

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©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

Hawaiian Islands

DATEBOOK ALLGIRLS RODEO

REGAL DISPLAY

Cowgirls and their trusty steeds compete in

With all the pomp and circumstance

six events: barrel racing, pole bending, dally

befitting of royalty, The King’s Parade &

team roping, goat tying, steer undecorating

Celebration features a procession of regal

and breakaway roping. Admisson is free.

horses and their beautiful pa‘u riders, each

Bleacher seating with an ocean view at CJM

representing one of the eight islands. The

stables (about a 1/2 mile from the Hyatt in

parade begins at Vidinha Stadium near the

Po‘ipū). There’s a lunch wagon with local

airport and travels along Rice Street to the

favorites, and it’s fun for the entire family.

County’s Historical Building Lawn, where

January, March, April, May, June and

there will be entertainment, crafts, demon-

August, kauaiallgirlsrodeoassociation

strations and a wide array of food.

June 9, kauaifestivals.com

THE KING AND US In honor of Kaua‘i-born Prince Kūhīo, known

INDIGENOUS FRUIT

as “The People’s Prince,” the Eighth Annual

Named after the rare anise-scented berry

Anahola Prince Kūhīo Day Celebration

unique to Kaua‘i, the Mokihana Festival

showcases cultural and educational

travels across the island in a celebra-

activities, demonstrations, and health and

tion of Native Hawaiian arts and crafts.

wellness exhibits. The event reaffirms the

Competitions in Hawaiian instrument mak-

leadership, stewardship and vision of Prince

ing, music composition and dance engage

Kūhīo, and his legacy in perpetuating the

people of all ages. This Kaua’i signature festi-

growth of healthy Hawaiian community on

val ends with a three-day hula competition.

‘aina ho’opulapula (homesteads land).

September, maliefoundation.org

Mid-March, kauaifestivals.com

TOWN PRIDE

A SHOW OF COMMUNITY SPIRIT

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The Eō e Emalani i Alaka‘i Festival (pictured

While it may be an invasive plant for some,

below) has become one of the most pow-

it’s a reason to celebrate for others. Held

erful Hawaiian cultural celebrations in the

early summer on Memorial Day Sunday in

state. Each year, kumu hula (hula masters)

Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow, the Banana Poka

and their dancers help to create an event

Festival weaves the roots of the invasive

that has touched thousands, many of whom

plants into useful baskets. The event features

return annually. The event commemorates

live music, exhibits by organizations and

the 1871 journey of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma

agencies that work to save the environment,

to the upland forests of Kanaloahuluhulu

along with lots of activities for children.

Meadow. October 13, kokee.org

May 27, Kōke‘e State Park, kokee.org

THE ULTIMATE BRUNCH This year marks the 30th anniversary of

The small yet proud town of Waimea has been putting the word “unity” in “community” for more than 40 years. This year, enjoy a nine-day celebration at the old Sugar Mill in Waimea. The event will feature an ‘ūkulele concert, sporting events, food, a beer garden and game booths. Named as one of the dozen distinctive destinations by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, Waimea Town offers a portal to the past. This seaport town is a stone’s throw from where British discoverer Captain James Cook first landed in Hawai‘i in 1778.

the Rotary Club of Kapa’a’s Taste of Hawai’i.

February 17-25, waimeatowncelebration.com

June 3, tasteofhawaii.com

WH E R E G U E ST B O O K

Considered the “Ultimate Brunch,” this gourmet event takes place on the pristine grounds of Smith’s Tropical Paradise. More than 25 chefs from around the state gather to provide attendees with a tasting extravaganza second to none.

(FROM LEFT) ©HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY/TOR JOHNSON; ©KAY KOIKE

POETRY IN MOTION FROM PEST TO FEST

FIRST LOOK

©MAJICPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK

The fourth largest and oldest island in the Hawaiian chain, Kaua‘i’s views are vibrant and saturated with color, and also nuanced with depth and shadow.

Be sure to visit the various areas.

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“Nāpali’s “O Hawai‘i towering no ka ‘aina cliffsmaikai” wall a Shangri-la HAWAIIANvalley PROVERB accessible only by that “After all,amid Hawai‘i the best land.” sea.…translates Junglelikeinto glens tucked the is ridges offer an unspoiled world for the adventurous.”

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, 1960

Waterfalls Called wailele in Hawaiian (leaping water) and praised in song, chant and hula, Nāpali Coast Hawai‘i’s numerous waterfalls are classic images of paradise. Wailua Falls is just

five minutes away Līhu‘e, near dream a roadside ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Known to many as from a photographer’s and lookout a hiker’spoint, quest,while the Nāpali Coast can be safely viewed from nearby Kuamo‘o Road.

The island’s more dramatic wateris lined with emerald-hued sharp ridges and pali (sea cliffs), which dive deep and falls include Manawaiopuna, popularly known as “Jurassic Falls” since abruptly intothe thefamous shoreline’s edge. The 17-mile stretch of coastline offers nearly it appearedterrain in the of film’s scene. Inand thehidden heart ofvalleys, Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, unspoiled sea opening caves, waterfalls which arewaterfalls inaccessible streak the crater walls weeping tears.helicopter This view or canononly beExtensive seen via helicopter. by vehicle and can onlylike be seen by ocean, foot. stone walled terraces, made by ancient Native Hawaiians thousands of years ago, can still be found along the footbed of the valley where they once lived and cultivated taro.

FIRST LOOK

Called wailele in Hawaiian (leaping water) and praised in song, chant and hula, Hawai‘i’s numerous waterfalls are classic images of paradise. Many of Kaua‘i’s falls are easily accessible: Wailua Falls is just five minutes away from Līhu‘e, near a roadside lookout point, and ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls can be safely viewed from just off Kuamo‘o Road.

The island’s more dramatic waterfalls include the famous Manawaiopuna, popularly known as “Jurassic Falls” since it appeared in the film’s opening scene.

Beaches

Like its mountains, Kaua‘i’s beaches are dramatic and diverse. Perhaps the most notable is Hanalei Bay with its sweeping curve of white sand enveloped by mountains.

At the end of Highway 56, where the Nāpali Coast begins, the waters off Kē‘ē Beach teem with fish and corals that dazzle snorkelers and beachgoers. Po‘ipū Beach is known for its idyllic swimming and snorkeling, and in Hanapēpē, Salt Pond Beach Park is calm and popular year-round. In Wailua, Lydgate Beach Park has a protective surrounding reef that makes it a favorite among families. While Kaua‘i’s beaches are beautiful, they can also be dangerous, especially in the winter. oceansafety.soest.hawaii.edu 20

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(FROM TOP TO BOTTOM) ©MAXIMKABB/ISTOCK; ©SHANE MYERS PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

Waterfalls

Waimea Canyon

Hailed as “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” this geological wonder stretches 14 miles long, one mile wide and more than 3,600 feet deep. The main road, Waimea Canyon Drive, leads to a lower lookout point and the main Waimea Canyon Overlook, which offers unobstructed views of Kauai’s dramatic interior. The road continues into the mountains and ends at Kōke‘e State Park, the launching point of numerous trails to traverse for beginners and seasoned hikers alike. Call 808.245.6001 for weather information.

Spouting Horn Waiakanaloa Cave

Waiakanaloa’s dome-shaped grotto was created by thousands of years of ocean waves pounding against the lava’s stone. At the right time of day, the sun’s reflection in the icy-cold waters of the cave causes the reflection to beam off rays of blue streaks, creating a bubble of shimmering turquoise. The water collected in Waiakanaloa is fed by the tide and springs that seep through the porous lava. Swimming is not advised as no aquamarine life has been known to exist here.

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Legends of the spouting horn tell a story of a large mo‘o, or lizard, caught in this blowhole, which was formed when waves eroded softer, underlying rock and wore through the harder top rock. The blowhole, known in Hawaiian as a puhi, is located near Po‘ipū Beach on the island’s south coast.

The best times to see this natural phenomenon are during the high tide and high surf. Lawai Road, South Shore, Kōloa near Po‘ipū

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©BACKYARDPRODUCTION/ISTOCK; ©JOHNWNIXON/ISTOCK; ©SAMANTHA ROBERTS/SHUTTERSTOCK

FIRST LOOK

24 W H E R E G U E ST B O O K PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

PEAK INTEREST The Hawaiian Islands’ summits are sacred realms that have been homes for gods and goddesses TEXT BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAMERON BROOKS

Hawai‘i’s summits are the realms of the gods, Nā wao akua. Far above the zones of human habitation, these summits once roared with fiery eruptions and now ring with silence. The air is thin, the ground free of footsteps. At the sky-reaching summits of Hawai‘i, Earth’s grandeur has never been brighter. Many of the early Polynesian gods and demi-gods derived from or dwelt in the heavens, and many of the legendary exploits took place among the heavenly orbs.

Not surprisingly, ancient Hawaiians always had a relationship with the skies, using them to navigate from island to island, and believing in their powerful and sacred nature. In the following pages, photographer Cameron Brooks captures aerial views of some of these hallowed summits, offering panoramic snapshots of a dormant volcano (Maui), towering sea cliffs (Moloka‘i), cloud-covered peaks (O‘ahu), cascading waterfalls (Kaua‘i) and plumes of smoke (Hawai‘i Island).

MAUI At Haleakalā, where the pan-Pacific demigod Maui snared the sun, we break above the realm of clouds into a sun-baked, subalpine world 10,023 feet above sea level.

WHERE GUEST B OOK

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KAUA‘I The elusive summit of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale is considered the wettest spot on Earth, creating a cascading series of waterfalls. In one of the most dramatic topographies in the island chain, the cliffs along the Nāpali Coast are the source of many Hawaiian legends and myths.

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WHERE GUEST B OOK

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28 W H E R E G U E ST B O O K PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

O‘AHU ‘Ōlapa ke ahi o ka lewa is an old Hawaiian proverb, which translates to “The fire of the sky flashes.” At 4,025 feet high, Ka‘ala is home to the benevolent patron goddess of travelers, Kaiona, who had frequent and helpful encounters with those voyaging through her realm.

WHERE GUEST B OOK

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HAWAI‘I ISLAND In Hawaiian mythology, no other figure compares to Madame Pele. In addition to being recognized as the goddess of volcanoes, she is also known for her power, passion and jealousy. Sacred among Hawaiians, Waipi‘o Valley is the site of many heiau (temples) and waterfalls.

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This original heirloom bracelet was a gift from Queen Lili‘uokalani to Zoe Atkinson, headmistress at an all-girls school, days before the end of the Hawaiian monarchy.

ADORNED WITH LOVE From the British monarchy to the shores of Hawai‘i, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry continues to thrive in popularity and sentiment

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHRISTINE TAKATA/BISHOP MUSEUM ARCHIVES; (THIS PAGE) ©KRISTEN HOOK PHOTOGRAPHY

BY KRISTEN NEMOTO JAY

If the United States is known as the “melting pot” of the world, then the state of Hawai‘i should be called a vibrant “fruit salad.” Where tradition meets diversity, Hawai‘i prides itself in distinguishing and celebrating each other’s differences and similarities. Different—yet the same—is the theme, which in turn reminds everyone who lives and visits here to remember and respect each other’s heritage.

A particularly special tradition of honoring the past, and those who’ve come before us, is one that can be attributed to Hawaiian and British monarchies. Although evolved over time, this tradition is known as the gift giving of Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. Like many local customs of Hawai‘i, the practice of giving and receiving Hawaiian heirloom jewelry has connections from abroad.

In his book, “Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry: A Lasting Remembrance,” Philip Rickard, owner of the eponymous Hawaiian heirloom jewelry manufacturing company, wrote that the origin of heirloom jewelry dates back to 13th Century England. Early works of gold rings and bracelets were some of the first pieces known to incorporate words of poetry or sentiment, which eventually led to the portmanteau of “posy.” According to London's

Victoria & Albert Museum, during medieval times when religion was a part of everyday life, it was common for text to appear on the outside of posy jewelry pieces as a way to express friendship or devotion to one’s faith. Many pieces would therefore function both as a religious talisman and a gift of love. Over time, the engraved pieces would involve lilies and roses, and for Hawai‘i, plumeria and hibiscus flowers.

In the mid- to late 1800s, an era when Hawai‘i’s relationship with England was particularly friendly, Queen Lili‘uokalani was evidently fond of heirloom jewelry since she can be seen wearing bracelets in several portrait photographs. During this same epoch, enameled jewelry became popular and was worn primarily by English royalty, a rule that was instated by Queen Victoria. It would later be called “mourning jewelry.” Gold bracelets and rings were engraved with black enamel as a way to mourn the sudden death of Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, Prince Albert. The fashionable trend soon made its way to Hawai‘i as local merchants sought to sell pieces to members of England’s upper class who were either vacationing or living in the Hawaiian Islands.

WHERE GUEST B OOK

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from Lili‘uokalani to Zoe Atkinson, the headmistress at Pohukaina Girls School and event coordinator for the Queen. The gesture soon drew envy among young lady socialites, who arguably inspired the custom of giving Hawaiian heirloom jewelry as we know it today.

“The tradition became popular because Hawai‘i had its own unique design that made our heirloom jewelry one of a kind,” Marzan explains. “While the Victorian era was still represented in the black enameling of the letters, designs that represented Hawai‘i were embellished on the jewelry to show our appreciation and association to the land. That’s what you see in Hawaiian heirloom

From engraving to polishing, Na Hoku is one of the few Hawaiian heirloom jewelry manufacturers that continues to make each of its pieces by hand.

©STEVE CZERNIAK

Marques Marzan, the cultural advisor for Bishop Museum, says it was during that time when Queen Lili‘uokalani—known then as High Chiefess Liliu Kamakaeha—commissioned her own personal enameled bracelets, thus starting a trend that would lead to the modern Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. “[Lili‘uokalani] had some [bracelets] made to bring back as gifts to family members here in Hawai‘i,” says Marzan, as he points to Bishop Museum’s current heirloom jewelry piece on display in the Kāhili Room. Engraved with “Aloha Oe” (Farewell to Thee) in black lettering, one of the gold bracelets was a gift

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“All those who live in Hawai‘i know that we all come from such a diverse and ethnic background ... But we all recognize Hawai‘i’s particular traditions and appreciate and wear this kind of jewelry.”

(THIS PAGE) ©STEVE CZERNIAK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©KRISTEN HOOK PHOTOGRAPHY

jewelry today, with various designs of the maile lei or plumeria flowers … it’s just beautiful.”

Paul Sato, vice president of Na Hoku, agrees and points out that Hawaiian heirloom jewelry is unlike any other jewelry in the world.

“It’s representative of Hawai‘i and is available nowhere else [but here],” Sato asserts. “It’s a combination of handcraftsmanship, personalization and history that really doesn’t occur anywhere else.”

Although the high price of gold made these bracelets out of reach for some, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry found a broader customer base in the latter years of the 20th century when other forms of heirloom jewelry—such as earrings, pendants and charms—became available.

Today, regardless of a family’s financial or social status, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry is given and received as a way to honor Hawai‘i’s deep connection to its ancestral past. For birthdays and graduations, it’s common for immediate and extended family members to combine resources in order to purchase a Hawaiian heirloom piece—mostly engraved gold bracelets for high school female graduates—as a way to commemorate the special occasion. In recent years, wedding engagement rings and bands have grown in popularity among locals and visitors alike; they’re perfect memorabilia that signify the momentous event while in the Islands.

“All those who live in Hawai‘i know that we all come from such a diverse and ethnic background,” Sato says.

“But we all recognize Hawai‘i’s particular traditions and appreciate and wear this kind of jewelry.”

Today, the styles of Hawaiian heirloom jewelry have evolved with its customers. Sterling silver and rose gold are now incorporated into designs, and black enamel has expanded to options of colored or raised engraved lettering. Whatever a person’s preference of heirloom pieces, its significance will continue on to the next generation.

“That’s one of the reasons why ‘heirloom,’ in the titling of the jewelry, is so significant, because that’s what truly happens,” says Sato, as he speaks from his own personal experience of when his daughter was given an engraved plumeria bracelet that belonged to his late mother.

“History moves with the person who wears it and that makes it so special.”

Hawaiian heirloom jewelry has evolved from a simple band bracelet to mixed gold metals, colorful enamels and dramatic flower designs, which reflect any style or personality.

TOWN & COUNTRY Hanapēpē maintains its charm and plantation past

BY CHERYL CHEE TSUTSUMI

A 20-year tradition of live entertainment, gallery open houses, food trucks and aloha spirit, Friday Art Night draws in tourists and local residents alike.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ISAAC ARJONILLA

In the time that it takes to say Hanapēpē, you may have already missed what’s affectionately known as the “Biggest Little Town on Kaua‘i.” For this little dot on the south side of Kaua‘i, “big” is a relative term. The part of Hanapēpē Road that goes through the heart of town is just two blocks long, and none of the buildings there stands more than two stories high. Most are of singlewall wood construction and have paned windows, boardand-batten siding and pent roofs or awnings over their entrance. It’s a quaint picture from the past—the rustic, sleepy kind of place where you imagine your great-grandparents might have grown up. And while the pace may seem slower, this quaint town maintains its vibrancy.

Hanapēpē means “crushed bay” in Hawaiian, probably in reference to the piles of rocks bordering nearby Hanapēpē Bay. Centuries before Captain James Cook 40

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arrived in 1778, Hawaiians were growing banana, sugarcane and sweet potato in fertile Hanapēpē Valley.

Unlike most of Kaua‘i’s towns, which were built and owned by sugar plantations, Hanapēpē was founded by enterprising Asian immigrants who had fulfilled their contracts with plantation owners and settled there to farm rice and taro, and launch mom-and-pop ventures.

By the early 1900s, the town’s population was primarily composed of the descendants of those plantation workers. Savvy entrepreneurs, they operated stores, bars, hotels, restaurants, pool halls, movie theaters, bowling alleys and roller-skating rinks. A USO club opened in Hanapēpē to accommodate the droves of military personnel who went there for R&R, and with Port Allen just over a mile away, Hanapēpē was the hub of commerce and entertainment on Kaua‘i.

Disney production designer Paul Felix used Hanapēpē as his inspiration when he created scenes for “Lilo & Stitch,” describing the town as “homey.”

The climate changed in the late 1930s when Highway 50 was built, bypassing the town, and Nāwiliwili Harbor in Līhu‘e became Kaua‘i’s principal port. Businesses and residents migrated east. The opening of Līhu‘e Airport in 1950 confirmed Līhu‘e’s status as Kaua‘i’s new business, social and political center.

For the next three decades, Hanapēpē settled into a state of quiet contentment. Then, in the early 1980s, the town’s pulse quickened when camera crews filmed Richard Chamberlain and Rachel Ward in scenes for the television miniseries “The Thorn Birds” (1983). The Serikawa Building (built in 1921) played the role of a hotel in Queensland, Australia. Hanapēpē also appeared as the Filipino city of Olongapo in “Flight of the Intruder” (1991), and it was the inspiration for the heroine’s home in the Disney animated blockbuster “Lilo & Stitch” (2002).

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Disney Production Designer Paul Felix wrote in the companion book to the film: “In the small town of Hanapēpē, I found all the usual homey details, ranging from rusted-out bridges to homemade mailboxes…I took as many pictures as I could but tried, at the same time, just to soak in the general atmosphere, which is hard to reproduce in photographs. I certainly recall being impressed by the saturation of colors and the everchanging moods of the skies and landscape.”

Fine artist Joanna Carolan also was bewitched by Hanapēpē’s beauty. Born and raised in San Francisco, she spent many idyllic summers with her grandparents who lived in Wailua, on the east side of Kaua‘i. Her grandmother volunteered at Kōke‘e Museum in West Kaua‘i every Sunday, and Carolan enjoyed accompanying her on the 90-minute drive. “We’d spend the day at the museum,” she

A hub for residents and visitors, the Talk Story Bookstore is a charming spot where resident cat Celeste, a.k.a. “The Boss,” lazily whiles away her time.

recalls, “and on the way home, we’d stop in Hanapēpē for a treat—either ice cream at Lappert’s or a slice of liliko‘i pie at Green Garden restaurant [now closed].”

In 1974, when Carolan was 14, her parents sent her to live with her grandparents for a year and a half. “I was a bit of a rebellious teenager,” she says with a smile. “I went to Kapa‘a High School for ninth grade. On weekends, my friends and I would go to the Old Hanapēpē Pool Hall. We could play pool and drink sodas there for a few dollars; it was fun and inexpensive.”

From 1978 to 1990, college and work kept Carolan from visiting her grandparents as often as she had when she was a child. When she moved to Kaua‘i in 1991, she was surprised and somewhat dismayed to see the influx of big-box stores and fast-food restaurants on the island.

To her relief, the building boom didn’t affect Hanapēpē.

“It looked and felt the way I remembered it from my ‘small kid’ days,” she says.

Carolan purchased the old pool hall (built in 1926) where she and her friends had passed many happy hours in their youth, and spent four years, from 1999 to 2003, renovating it.

Listed on the state and national registers of historic places, it now houses Banana Patch Studio, her gallery and working ceramic studio, and Banana Patch Press, which publishes children’s books by her and her pediatrician husband, Terry. Over the past decade, largely spurred by Carolan, Hanapēpē has been undergoing a revitalization that has bonded residents. Artists have given 11 of the town’s historic buildings new life as galleries. The 1.5-mile self-guided Historic Hanapēpē Walking Tour spotlights 69 significant sites in town.

Among these is the Storybook Theatre (built in 1932), a TV studio and theater focusing on children’s activities.

Originally a Chinese restaurant called Sun Ke Heong (House of Fragrance), it’s now nicknamed “Sparky’s Place” after the late Masayuki “Spark” Matsunaga, the former U.S. Senator from Hawai‘i who was born and raised in Hanapēpē.

“As an artist, I see Hanapēpē’s potential—what it could become with all its buildings restored and back in use,” Carolan says.“Historic restoration is usually a costly, time-consuming endeavor, but I believe there’s mana (spirit) in our wonderful old buildings that makes every minute and penny of that effort worthwhile.”

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Poipu Bay Golf Course

P

oipu Bay Golf Course’s 210 oceanfront acres meander along rugged coastline, featuring spectacular vistas and cooling trade winds that will test all levels of play and yet fun for novices as well. Host of the PGA Grand Slam of golf from 1994—2006, Poipu Bay features an award-winning golf shop. Adjacent to the course is the Grand Hyatt Resort & Spa.

808-742-8711 | www.poipubaygolf.com

THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN HANAPĒPĒ SALT PONDS Near Salt Pond Beach Park, west of town, a dozen families harvest sea salt from shallow pools the same way their ancestors did. In the 18th and 19th centuries, crews from visiting ships sought the salt as a preservative for food. Hawaiian salt makers traded the prized commodity for wares, such as cloth, nails, trinkets and salmon, which inspired the lomilomi salmon dish that’s still enjoyed at lū‘au. The red ‘alaea salt—which is mixed with mineral-rich volcanic soil as it dries, imbuing it with a distinctive color and purportedly strong medicinal properties—is produced only on Kaua‘i. It is adored by discerning chefs and gourmands.

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HISTORIC HANAPĒPĒ WALKING TOUR Pick up a rack card at Līhu‘e Airport, bring it to most shops in town and receive a free souvenir map (otherwise, it costs $2). The famed Swinging Bridge was built around the turn of the last century to carry pipes bringing water from the valley into town. In the 1920s, it was expanded to a walking suspension bridge and raised over the pipes. When a more efficient water system was installed in the 1930s or 1940s, the pipes were removed.

FRIDAY ART NIGHT Hanapēpē’ Art Night happens every Friday from 6 to 9 p.m.

Amble along the half-mile

stretch of shops and galleries, and mingle with local artists, musicians, photographers, painters, sculptors and craftsmen who showcase their works of art, from handmade ornaments and collectible books to serigraph and sculptures.

KAUA‘I ORCHID AND ART FESTIVAL Usually held in March, this event features an exhibit of the Garden Island Orchid Society’s top specimens, plein-air artists painting in various locations around Hanapēpē, ikebana (Japanese flower arranging) and watercolor workshops, and such children’s activities as origami and sand painting.

CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE FESTIVAL Held in October, this familyfriendly event features chocolate and coffee tastings, live entertainment, keiki activities, farm tours, workshops and demonstrations.

HANAPĒPĒ SWINGING BRIDGE A popular area attraction, the Hanapēpē Swinging Bridge Tiebuilt do conulla conwas originally in the early 1900s as a way for residents to sendre ero odignit cross the river.

Hurricane alitAfter num vel irilit ipisi Iniki in 1992,tisthe was adbridge magnisl ip et restored andlutem reinforced, but it ing eraesto has since become wornlobore and indel commodo need of someiliquissim repair. Children essequis enjoy this suspension augiam velbridge since it rocks and swings.

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ISLAND VIEWS

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There’s virtually no spot on Kaua‘i that doesn’t warrant a second glance or inspire visitors to linger in thought. The island is awash with greenery, deep with canyons and sculpted with mountain peaks accompanied by the dance of waterfalls.

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Princeville

Sugar plantation owner Robert Crichton Wyllie named the area “Princeville” in 1860 to honor the visit of Prince Albert Kamehameha, son of King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma. Once a coffee plantation, the landscape was transformed into a sprawling cattle ranch and kalo (taro) farm. Perched upon lush ocean bluffs on the island’s North Shore, the picturesque area is now one of Kaua‘i’s most popular resort areas, offering tranquility, and panoramic mountain and ocean views.

Kōloa

Hawai‘i’s first commercial sugar plantation was in Kōloa, now known as Old Kōloa Town. The edifice of the original sugar mill remains, dwarfed by the boutiques and restaurants that have sprouted in the town’s restored plantation buildings. The town’s history center is awash in plantation memorabilia, and the map of the Historic Kōloa Trail, available in many of the shops, is the ideal tool for a self-guided tour of the area.

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Po‘ipū

The picturesque south shore is home to the resort area of Po‘ipū, the locale of some of America’s best beaches. A top attraction, Spouting Horn features a blowhole that shoots a spout of water up to 20 feet into the air. Highway 520 (Maluhia Road) is lined with a canopy of eucalyptus trees, known as the “Tree Tunnel.” If there’s any place in Hawai‘i where you should turn off the air-conditioning and roll down the windows, this is it.

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ISLAND VIEWS

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

Coconut Coast

Groves of coconut palms flourish at resorts on the East Side of Kaua‘i, earning its Coconut Coast moniker. As the most populated district on the island, approximately 16,000 of the island’s 62,000 residents reside in the Wailua/Kapa‘a area. Among the clusters of coconut trees, historic places of interest include the Nounou Mountain range, more whimsically known as Sleeping Giant; the Fern Grotto, which is only accessible by boat; and the sacred Polihau Heiau, a large lava-rock temple of Kaua‘i’s last king, Kaumuali‘i. Geographically, Kapa‘a is said to resemble a human figure lying on its back.

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Kīlauea

Located 200-feet above sea level, the Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse —named after Hawai‘i’s late senior senator—was built on a former volcanic vent on a steep 500-foot bluff. Erected in 1913, the 52-foot lighthouse was once a beacon for shipping vessels sailing through the Hawaiian Islands from Asia. The historic landmark also doubles as the location of the Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge.

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Līhu‘e

Translated in English, Līhu‘e means “cold chill” and is located in the ancient district of Puna, the southeastern coast of the island. The area includes a variety of natural wonders, including Kalapaki Beach, Kilohana Plantation Estate, Grove Farm Homestead and ‘Alekoko Fish Pond, a more than 1,000-year-old archeological site. One of the newest developments, Hōkūala, features the stunning Ocean Course golf club.

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHRISTIAN WEBER/123RF STOCK PHOTO; (FROM LEFT) ©BILL FLORENCE/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY HŌKŪALA

ISLAND VIEWS

Wailua River

This tranquil tributary flows by babbling waterfalls and lush, jungle landscapes, making it one of the most popular navigable waterways on Kaua‘i. The 20-mile long river, which once wove through the settings of seven different heiau (temples), travels from the 5,148-foot Mount Wai‘ale‘ale. Two popular waterfalls are accessible: ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls and Wailua Falls. The scenic river itself can be explored by kayak or outrigger canoe. The river can also be seen by car. Take Kuamo‘o Road (Hwy. 580), which journeys inland along the north side of the river from Kuhio Highway (Hwy. 56).

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Kalāheo

Literally “the proud day” in Hawaiian, Kalāheo was once a settlement for sugar plantation workers. Today, sugar production has yielded to coffee cultivation, where over four million coffee trees are grown on more than 4,000 acres, making Kaua‘i the largest coffee plantation in the United States.

Nearby, Allerton Gardens is home to the famous Moreton Bay fig trees that were featured in the movie” Jurassic Park.”

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Wai‘ale‘ale Crater

Its name meaning “rippling water,” Wai‘ale‘ale Crater is considered one of the wettest spots on earth, averaging more than 426 inches of rain per year. The heart of this extinct volcano can be explored via helicopter, revealing breathtaking aerial views of the Weeping Wall, which is a portion of the crater where a series of cascading waterfalls coat the 3,000-foot cliff walls creating an illusion of weeping.

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ISLAND VIEWS

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WAILUA KAYAK ADVENTURE Travel with Wailua Kayak Adventure down the Wailua River, the “River of Dreams.” Let Wailua Kayak Adventure take you exploring the ancient pathway of the gods into the valley of the Royal Ali‘i. Travel at your own pace while your guide fills you in on the historical and religious significance of this spectacular river valley. Paddle its glassy waters between flower-enshrouded banks, with Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale rising beyond in all its magnificence. Journey into the ancient rain forest where they tie up and begin a jungle trek along a pristine mountain stream, explore ruins and terraces, and swim below a 120-foot waterfall. Plenty of organic snacks are provided. Ask about half-price specials. We also rent kayaks, Sups and Surfboards.

Oceanfront beauty immaculate conditions #1 Golf Course in Hawaii “Best of 2016” Golf Advisor Top 5 “Most Scenic Settings in the World” National Geographic Traveler Magazine (808) 826–1912 MakaiGolf.com

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Tours Call 808.639.6332 Rentals Call 808.320.0680 Email: sacredriver@hawaiian.net wailuakayakadventure.com

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OFFERS SCENIC COASTLINE VISTAS WITH VERDANT CLIFFS AND REMOTE BEACHES, SOME OF WHICH ARE ONLY ACCESSIBLE VIA BOAT OR ON FOOT. HIKERS ARE OFTEN REWARDED WITH PEEK-A-BOO VIEWS ALONG ANY OF THE TRAILS. 60

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D6 PASSION FRUIT LUSCIOUS LILIKOI This versatile fruit can be used in cocktails, jams, desserts and even as a topping for shave ice.

BY GAIL HERCHER

D14 CHOCOLATE REIGNS CACAO FARMING Take a tour of the Garden Island Chocolate Farm.

BY KIM STEUTERMANN ROGERS

D24 OODLES OF NOODLES FROM SAIMIN TO SOBA Go on a slurping safari, sampling everything from Vietnamese pho to the popular Japanese ramen.

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Butterfish over soba noodles from chef Roy Yamaguchi’s Eating House 1849.

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PASSION FRUIT (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©MIKE HERCHER; (THIS PAGE) ©YURI ARCURS

Lilikoi sparks the taste buds TEXT BY BY GAIL HERCHER

If you’re lucky, you may find a tiny basket of lilikoi at a farmer’s market, a roadside stand or Chinatown stall; otherwise, your best bet is to pick lilikoi in the wild, cadge it from a neighbor, or grow it in your backyard —not entirely handy if you need it for tonight’s lū‘au cake. True, lilikoi puree, frozen concentrate and dehydrated

powder are available in stores, but these products don’t match the taste of fresh lilikoi. So, one must wonder: Where are the lilikoi? The short answer is that very few farmers in Hawai‘i grow it. The long answer, however, is more complicated.

Passiflora, the plant that produces a spectacular 1- to 3-inch flower with DINI N G I N PA RA DI SE

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yellow or purple fruit, was first seen by 16th century Spanish explorers in South America. Catholic missionaries, astonished by the structure of this flower, assigned religious meaning to its parts to parallel the Passion of Christ, from which the plant gained its name, passus (suffering) flora (flower).

To them, the five stamens represented the hammers used to drive nails into Christ’s hands; the five petals and five sepals, the 10 apostles; the many mitten-shaped leaves, the pointed hands of the accusers; and the ominous, coiling tendrils simulated whips used by the persecutors.

To the missionaries, the appearance of this flower in South America was seen as a sign that the native peoples were ready for Christ. When the monastic scholar Jacomo Bozio published “F/os Passionis” in 1610 with a series of poems and illustrations, the world of passiflora blossomed.

From that point on, adventurers, travelers, seamen and horticulturists carried seeds from South America to ports around the world. Before long, the passion flower was being cultivated in almost every tropical country (today, there are more than 500 varieties).

The fruit of the plant—it has a different name in every country—is now a major commercial crop in Central and South America (it is the national fruit of Columbia), the Caribbean, Africa, Australia, New Zealand, India, Samoa, Fiji, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Passion fruit seeds of the purple variety (Passiflora.edulis sims) were first planted on Maui in 1880 by Eugene Delemar who brought them from Australia. He planted them at his ranch in an area still known as “Lilikoi Gulch,” after which the fruit was named.

The vine quickly spread beyond Maui and, before long, lilikoi was

(FROM LEFT) ©PINGDAO/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©MIKE HERCHER

Across the Islands, one can always find a tower, of pineapples in the supermarket, but you’ll never see a pyramid of lilikoi.

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picked in the wild or grown in home gardens, and was incorrectly presumed to be an indigenous Hawaiian plant. In the days of yore, to quench their thirst, Hawaiians would pick a lilikoi off the vine, squeeze it between their knees to break it open and then “suck it up” to savor its sweet/tart taste and beguiling fragrance. Locals quickly learned to make pure juice, the basis of all lilikoi recipes, by mashing the pulp with the seeds and straining out the juice.

Purple lilikoi remained a local treat until 1923, when the first seeds of yellow passion fruit (Passiflora. edulis.f. flavicarpa) were donated to the Hawaiian Agricultural Experiment Station. Farmers quickly took to this new variety, which is more pest-resistant than the purple fruit.

It seemed ideal: A swiftly growing plant with few pests that was efficiently pollinated by the carpenter bee, and bore abundant fruit within two years.

Through the 1930s and ’40s, farmers gradually became more enthusiastic about growing lilikoi; some even thought it could become a profitable crop. In the 1950s, lilikoi farming truly caught on. By 1953, 50 acres on the Hawai‘i Island were planted and, in 1954, island processors predicted a Mainland market of 2 million pounds of juice per year. By 1955, Hawai‘i boasted 500 acres planted in lilikoi with a potential yield of 10,000 pounds per acre—a market value of $l million.

In 1955, Honolulu Advertiser readers were told “Passion Fruit Looms As Basis of $25 Million Industry for Islands,” and attendees of the Ice Cream Convention in St. Louis heard that “passion fruit is the best new flavor introduced to the ice cream trade in a half-century!” As a further sign of progress, growers and processors (there were 50 growers and six processors on O‘ahu) met in Waimānalo to

©MIKE HERCHER (2)

Locals quickly learned to make pure juice, the basis of all lilikoi recipes, by mashing the pulp with the seeds and straining out the juice.

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form a lilikoi association that would serve to advance their industry.

Unfortunately, by 1956 it was clear that the lilikoi industry had serious problems. The volume of lilikoi production was not large enough to justify the expense of mechanical processing machines. In addition, coordinating the efforts of growers, processors, shippers and distributors, along with advertising and promotion campaigns, proved too difficult.

The last straw for lilikoi farmers in Hawai‘i was the success of the passion fruit industry in southern California, where farmers could easily grow, process, advertise, promote and ship fruit to mainland U.S. customers. The demand for Hawai‘i-grown lilikoi eventually evaporated.

Today, of course, people in Hawai‘i still seek out fresh local lilikoi.

Mixologists want it for their exotic signature cocktails; bakers require it

for specialty cakes and airy chiffon pies; aunties need it for lilikoi shortbread cookies; cottage industries use it for jams and jellies; local emporiums rely on it for shave ice, sherbet and ice cream; and connoisseurs and gourmands simply need their regular fixes.

Ken Love, executive director of the nonprofit group Hawaii Tropical Fruit Growers Association, who grows lilikoi on Hawai‘i Island and produces his own line of lilikoi products, says everybody wants lilikoi, but we just can’t grow enough of it.

Let’s hope that local farmers will try again to grow lilikoi on a large scale and revive it as a profitable crop. If everyone wants lilikoi, there’s certainly a market for the product.

Happily, until then, we can still enjoy fresh lilikoi when we can find it. Pick it in the wild. Grow your own. Cadge it from a neighbor. Or buy it online.

Then, yes: you’ll have lilikoi!

(FROM LEFT) ©MIKE HERCHER; ©STEVE CZERNIAK

Carpenter bees contribute greatly to the pollination of lilikoi. The delicate locally grown fruit can be used in a variety of sweet and savory recipes.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

CHOCOLATE REIGNS Cacao farming on the Garden Isle TEXT BY KIM STEUTERMANN ROGERS PHOTOS BY CHRIS MCDONOUGH

Koa Kahili says there’s a proper way to eat chocolate: Take a piece and rub it around in your fingers to aerate and warm it up. That brings out all the flavors, he notes. That also explains why the tips of his fingersare brown.

The scientific name Theobroma cacao translates to both “food of the gods” and “the chocolate tree.” In the United States, we refer to the plant and

all its products before processing as “cacao.” After processing, the solid cacao seeds or the juice they produce might be called “food (or drink) of the gods.”

Some certainly call it a daily necessity.

But in all cases, its most common name is “chocolate.”

There is only one place across this country where cacao is commercially grown: Hawai‘i. And, while there are DINI N G I N PA RA DI SE

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The cacao pod measures approximately 5 inches long with yellow, red, orange, green or purplish pigmentation, and is variable in shape, from ovoid to oblong. When processed, we know it to be as chocolate.

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several growers of the cacao plant and innumerable consumers of its finished product, only two farms cultivate the pod and see it through to its final state in a “bean-to-bar” process. One is The Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory (its slogan is, “Remember: Chocolate is Aloha.”) located on Hawai‘i Island.

The other is Garden Island Chocolate, which is located in coastal Kīlauea on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The 3-acre working farm is beautiful. On the covered lānai outside a farm building, we sat around a table decorated with roasted cacao beans, bowls of nibs, bars of chocolate, Mason jars of chocolate syrup and a box of chocolate truffles. Koa passed around a plate of crunchy, grainy nibs in two of the farm’s eight varieties: criollo and trinitario. Nibs, Koa explains, are chunks of cacao after it has been fermented, dried and roasted. Basically, almost chocolate.

Next, he passed around a plate of the farm’s “Spicy Pepper” chocolate, made with allspice and chili peppers as a tribute to the ancient Mayans who are credited with figuring out how to turn a cacao pod shaped like a mini football into the flavor we call chocolate.

“True connoisseurs don’t use adjectives to describe chocolate,” Koa says.

“They share a memory or a feeling.

Chocolate connoisseurs don’t say it tastes like a plum with black currants.

“They might say something like, ‘It smells like that sunny day when I was on the swing and the grass was freshly cut.’”

Chocolate is a processed food, like coffee and wine. So, much like coffee and wine, its quality is a combination of a great product and proper processing. The highest quality chocolates are single origin—the beans all come from the same place—and you can taste the terroir or region of origin.

True connoisseurs don’t use adjectives to describe chocolate.

Instead, they share a memory or a feeling.

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The operation at Garden Island Chocolate is classified as an artisanal small batch chocolate maker. The mission is simple, but not easy: To produce the best chocolate in the world. They follow organic and sustainable agricultural standards and practices. What they don’t grow themselves, they source from other Hawai‘i farmers.

Koa explains that chocolate has more flavanols (antioxidants that help the flow of blood through the vessels and strengthen their linings) than any other type of food. Chocolate has more than 400 chemical compounds, including theobromine, a muscle relaxant; phenylethylamine, known as the love drug; and anandamide, known as the bliss chemical. No wonder it’s deemed a super-food.

The key in retaining the health benefits to chocolate, though, is keeping it pure. That’s why Garden Island Chocolate grinds the beans by hand

using a stone melanger. This hand-processing is laborious, but essential.

There’s so much more than chocolate on this tour. Before we even got to the tasting room—the aforementioned covered lānai—we strolled the farm. We tasted papaya, navel orange, tangerine, grapefruit, avocado, pomelo, rambutan, abiu, cacao bean, Surinam cherry and macadamia nut. The tasting started with a tiny fruit—oblong in shape and Christmas red in color—called Miracle Berry, in itself a story.

I returned home with a bar of chocolate for my husband and a bit of knowledge. Cacao is an understory plant. As such, it prefers shade, wind-protection and plenty of water. Our cacao trees receive sun, wind and drought-like conditions. This is why the three cacao trees I gifted him for our anniversary are sadlooking twigs sticking out of the hardpacked ground at our Kaua‘i home.

HANALEI HANALEI HANALEI GOURMET GOURMET GOURMET Located Located Located in the in the “Old in the “Old Hanalei “Old Hanalei Hanalei Schoolhouse” Schoolhouse” Schoolhouse” circa circa 1926. circa 1926.

1926. thethe Hanalei the Hanalei Hanalei Gourmet Gourmet Gourmet offers offers off a unique ers a unique a unique approach approach approach to your to your toculinary your culinary culinary needs! needs! needs!

OurOur bar Our bar boasts bar boasts boasts a a a fullfull tropical full tropical tropical barbar with bar with award with award award winning winning winning drinks, drinks, drinks, micro-brews micro-brews micro-brews andand fine and fiwines. nefine wines. wines.

Lunch Lunch Lunch is served is served is served daily daily from daily from 10:30 from 10:30 10:30 a.m.a.m. toa.m.

5:30 to 5:30 top.m.

5:30 p.m. p.m.

Dinner Dinner Dinner is served is served is served from from 5:30 from 5:30 p.m.

5:30 p.m. top.m.

9:30 to 9:30 top.m.

9:30 p.m. p.m.

Early Early Bird Early Bird discount Bird discount discount specials specials specials are are from are from 5:30 from 5:30 - 5:30 6:30 - 6:30 -p.m.

6:30 p.m. p.m.

Monday Monday Monday andand Thand ursday ThTh ursday ursday night night from night from 6:00 from 6:00 to6:00 9:00 to 9:00 to 9:00 we we serve we serve our serve our very our very popular very popular popular FishFish Tacos, Fish Tacos, Tacos, a must a must a have must have have when when visiting when visiting visiting ourour beautiful our beautiful beautiful island. island. island.

OurOur extensive Our extensive extensive “Bistro “Bistro “Bistro Style” Style” Style” menu menu menu features, features, features, fresh fresh fifresh sh,fish, gourmet fish, gourmet gourmet pasta’ pasta’ spasta’ , steaks, s, steaks, s, steaks, chops, chops, chops, great great burgers, great burgers, burgers, crisp crisp fresh crisp fresh salads, fresh salads, salads, vegetarian vegetarian vegetarian - gluten - gluten - gluten freefree dishes, free dishes, dishes, primo primo primo pupus, pupus, pupus, numerous numerous numerous gourmet gourmet gourmet sandwiches sandwiches sandwiches andand daily and daily specials, daily specials, specials, with with an with island an an island island flair.flair. flair.

Happy Happy Happy Hour Hour Hour daily daily from daily from 3:30 from 3:30 -3:30 5:30 - 5:30 - 5:30 LiveLive local Live local music local music music on on selective on selective selective nights, nights, nights, andand sports and sports sports on on large on large H.D. large H.D. TV’s H.D. TV’s TV’s To-Go To-Go To-Go pickup pickup pickup service service service available available available by calling by by calling calling

808-826-2524 808-826-2524 808-826-2524 This Thall Th is adds all is all adds up adds up to aup tolively atolively a local lively local place local place that’s place that’s casual that’s casual casual enough enough enough to have to have toahave whole a whole a whole lot lot of lot fun! of fun! of fun!

Aloha!

Aloha!

Aloha!

Opened Opened Opened in 1990 in 1990 inby 1990 Bra

by Bra

by Bra TimTim and Tim and Lil’and Lil’ Andi.

Lil’ Andi.

Mahalo Andi.

Mahalo Mahalo for for your for your patronage! your patronage! patronage!

Hukilau Lanai Fresh Local Fish Live Music Nightly Twenty Great Wines for $20- something

808.822.0600

www.hukilaukauai.com Reservations Recommended

Photo Credit to Daniel Lane

FARM TO FORK CUISINE FEATURING FRESH PRODUCE DAILY Teaming up with local farmers, we bring the farm to table lifestyle to our menu. All our entrées are served with a selection of freshly harvested vegetables from our valued partners.

For reservations call (808) 245-1955 Breakfast and Dinner | 4331 Kauai Beach Dr., Lihue, HI 96766

Where Kauai: Dining in Paradise Issue: 2017 Size: 1/2 pg, 4C (6.25”x 4.125”) DUE: Oct. 5

Ramen is often enjoyed with a softboiled egg, braised pork and savory garnishes.

OODLES OF NOODLES From saimin and soba to udon and ramen Text by RIZZA BALLESTEROS

Certain food knows no boundaries and this is especially true for noodles.

Slurped or twirled, cold or hot, thin or wide, simmered or fried, the versatile noodle is an Asian staple that has been around for more than 4,000 years. In the mid 19th century, sugar cultivation in Hawai‘i prompted the need for migrant workers who came from China first, followed by the Japanese, Portuguese, Koreans and Filipinos, each bringing a new type of noodle to the Islands. Today, restaurants of all types — from fast-food to fine dining — offer some iteration of a noodle dish. From a bowl of vermicelli rice noodles in the Vietnamese pho to the wildly celebrated Japanese ramen, various textures, flavors, toppings, broths and cooking methods offer remarkable noodle options for diners.

RAMEN One of the most illustrious noodle dishes in today’s culinary world, ramen, has become so trendy in recent years to the point of reincarnation. When it

is not being transformed into buns for a burger and in the hands of traditional Japanese chefs (where they are usually found in Hawaii), ramen is a hearty meal consisting of wheat-flour noodles submerged in a shoyu- (soy sauce), meat-, seaweed- or miso-based broth.

Most restaurants offer an array of toppings and sides, of which gyoza (Japanese pot stickers) is the most popular. Respectable ramen chefs believe the noodles hold their ideal form and texture for only five minutes while steeped in broth and find slurping as a sign of a compliment.

PHO Pho, pronounced “fuh,” is the popular Vietnamese noodle soup known among U.S. mainlanders for its pungent smell and rainy day remedies. The perfect medley of rice, noodles and meat is served with fresh vegetables and herbs: bean sprouts, Thai basil, mint, lime and peppers. But the meat-based broth, which is slow cooked for hours using DINI N G I N PA RA DI SE

25

UDON Also from Japan, udon is heartier than the average noodle. In its simplest form, udon is served in a light, hot broth and garnished with shallots and tempura (fried) flakes. Like any other noodle dish, the options for toppings and broths are many. Udon aficionados who have grown accustomed to the 26

D INING IN PARAD IS E

weight of the square shaped wheat-flour noodles opt for golden crisp ebi tempura (battered shrimp) or a perfectly softboiled egg as additional toppings. It is also popularly enjoyed cold, served in a bamboo bowl with a side sauce, where each chopstick-twirled web of noodles is dipped, instead of being submerged in a soup. Whether it is in a clear soup, curry-like broth or reserved bare for a dipping sauce, slurping is still considered proper etiquette.

SOBA With Hawai‘i’s warm temperatures, nothing could be more refreshing than a bowl of mori soba. Simmered, rinsed in cold water and piled on a zaru (bamboo tray), the buckwheatflour-based noodles are served cold (actually room-temperature, as they should be) with a side of tsuyu, a dipping sauce composed of dashi, mirin and sweetened shoyu.

©MARINA NABATOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

ingredients that vary from recipe to recipe, is the star and has attracted a cult-like following, among them the Food Network’s Anthony Bourdain.

In Vietnam, the streets are lined with stalls selling the steaming bowls where locals often stop by for a quick breakfast. Here in Hawai‘i, restaurants serving pho are more on the casual side and offer a similar swiftness in service, each table equipped with the customary rack of condiments containing hoisin sauce, Sriracha and pickled jalapeno peppers.

(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©ABC7/SHUTTERSTOCK; (THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT) ©JREIKA/SHUTTERSTOCK;

One of the key ingredients to any respectable bowl of Vietnamese pho is the bánh pho or rice noodles. The garnishes can range from bean sprouts and cilantro to chili peppers and thin slices of beef.

A “Hole” Lot of Flavor!

• Premium Polish sausage or Non-GMO veggie gods • House baked artisan buns • Garlic Lemon secret sauce and Hawaiian fruit relish.

• One of the Top 10 hot dog stands in America by The Travel Channel

www.Pukadog.com South Shore | Poipu Shopping Village | Open Daily 10am-8pm | 808.742.6044

Photo Credit to “Paradise Productions”

“I couldn’t imagine what mango on a hot dog and all of these flavors would taste like together...

It’s delicious. I love it!” - Anthony Bourdain

PAD THAI As pleasing to the eye as it is our appetites, pad Thai is a perfect representation of the vivacity of the country from which it reigns. Prevalent in the streets of Thailand, flat rice noodles are stir-fried in tamarind pulp with shallots, chili pepper, bean sprouts, egg, tofu, and chicken or shrimp, then sprinkled with ground peanuts and served with fresh lime. Here, you can find versions of the noodle dish in shades ranging from gravy brown to a reddish-orange that are best ordered a la carte, so as to share along with other Thai favorites. Although Thai chefs tend to be liberal with chili pepper, any restaurant will allow the level of spice to be kicked up or toned down according to taste preference.

SAIMIN In Cantonese, “sai,” means thin and “mein” means noodle, but this local

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D INING IN PARAD IS E

comfort food takes influences from far more than just the Chinese. Now the official state food of Hawai‘i, saimin was born in the early 20th century when cooking was a collaborative effort among plantation workers who were frugal with what little money they earned. With each family contributing to a communal “pot,” saimin takes influences from the Filipino pancit, Chinese mein and Japanese ramen. The result is a noodle soup that is topped with green onions, kamaboko (fish cake) and char siu pork or other meats and seafood, a true reflection of the multi-cultural harmony that exists in Hawaii. Credited with glorifying what was deemed by most back then as simply a snack, the late Franz “Shiro” Matsuo took the simple bowl of saimin and turned it into an all-in-one meal, giving rise to a new utensil called the spork— half spoon/half fork.

Happy slurping.

(FROM LEFT) ©KPG PAYLESS2/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©NICKOLA_CHE/SHUTTERSTOCK

Traditionally made with buckwheat flour, soba noodles can be served either hot or cold, depending on the season. The web of noodles are often topped with basil, scallions, strips of nori (seaweed) and bonito (fish) flakes.

RESTAURANT GUIDE HANALEI Dolphin Hanalei, TheCL006 Seafood. Known for its fresh seafood, this landmark restaurant on the Hanalei River offers a romantic setting and stylish contemporary sushi lounge.Hanalei Dolphin Center, 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy., 808.826.6113.

The Shops at Kukui’ula, 808.742.1414. hanaleidolphin.com.

L, D, C, B/W Hanalei GourmetCL00481 Pacific Rim. Find fresh, local produce, house-baked whole grain bread and award-winning tropical drinks at this cafe. Live music on Sundays and Wednesdays, and daily happy hour.

5-5161 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.826.2524. hanaleigourmet.com.

L, D, C, B/W Northside GrillCL00481 Pacific/American. With stunning views of Hanalei, this open-air restaurant was formerly known as Bouchons. This family-owned and -operated eatery offers Pacific-American fare, including locally caught seafood, St. Louis ribs, signature fish and chips and a premier sushi bar.

5-5190 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.826.9701. northsidegrill.com.

L, D, C, B/W Opakapaka Grill & BarCL00481 Pacific Fusion. Located next door to the Hanalei Colony Resort in Ha‘ena, this casual restaurant adheres to the farm-to-table philosophy. Enjoy craft cocktails and beers during the “End of the Road Happy Hour.”

7132 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.378.4425. ogbkauai.com.

L, D, C, B/W

HANAPĒPĒ MCS GrillCL006781 Regional. A local neighborhood favorite that’s known for its homestyle cuisine and affordable prices.

1-3529 Kaumuali’i Hwy., 808.431.4645.

L, D

KALĀHEO Brick Oven PizzaCL003521 American. Arguably the best pizza on the entire island and a fixture in the community for more than 30 years.

2-2555 Kaumualii Hwy., 808.332.8561.

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Wailua, 4-361 Kuhio Hwy., 808.823.8561. brickovenpizzahi.com.

L, D Kauai Coffee Co. & CafeCL008134 Regional. Learn how coffee is grown, harvested, processed and graded, then enjoy coffee, sandwiches, pastries and smoothies.

870 Halewili Rd, 808.335.0813. kauaicoffee.com.

Open daily

KAPA‘A Cafe PortofinoCL006781 Italian. Upscale Northern Italian cuisine served in a comfortable al fresco ambiance. There are a variety of specialty pastas, fresh seafood and hearty entrees.

3481 Ho‘olaule‘a Way. 808.245.2121. cafeportofino.com.

D, C, B/W Hānai Market1 Regional. A complete locally sourced grocery store that sells homemade jellies, marinated meats and fresh produce.

4-1543 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.822.0600. hanaikauai.com.0597 D, B/W Hukilau Lānai008136 Regional. Inventive island flavors, fresh local seafood and a unique wine list along with nightly entertainment.

Kauai Coast Resort at the Beachboy, 520 Aleka Loop, 808.822.0600. hukilaukauai.com.0597 D, C, B/W Papaya’s Natural Foods0T0h8e135, Regional. A health food store that’s well known for its local products, salad bar, refreshing smoothies and coffee.

4-831 4-901 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.823.0190. papayasnaturalfoods.com Open daily Smith’s Family Garden Lū’auCL005968 Regional. This lū’au is set within a 30-acre botanical and cultural garden in the Wailua River Valley.

Take a leisurely stroll around the garden before watching a roasted pig unearthed from an imu (underground oven). Then sip on a mai tai and feast on the buffet dinner, all while enjoying the Polynesian dance revue.

Smith’s Tropical Paradise, 5971 Kuhio Hwy., 808.821.6895. smithskauai.com.

D

Street Burger0T0h8e135, American. An urban-chic eatery known for its locally sourced burgers, handcut fries and impressive selection of local and craft beers on tap.

4-369 Kūhiō Hwy., B-8, 808.212.1555. streetburgerkauai.com L, D, B/W Wahoo Seafood Grill & BarCL008135 Pacific Rim. Local seafood laced with homemade sauces result in a symphony of flavors. Nightly live entertainment.

4-733 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.822.7833 wahoogrill.com L, D, C, B/W

KĪLAUEA KĪlauea Fish MarketCL0081359 Regional. Find healthy, gourmet versions of traditional local foods at affordable prices. Everything is made from scratch, including the sauces, and there are several vegetarian options on the menu.

Their ahi wrap, grilled fish with sesame miso butter and Korean style beef ribs are popular. Dine outdoors on their patio.

4270 KĪlauea Lighthouse Rd., 808.828.6244.

L, D

KŌLOA/PŌ’IPŪ Bangkok Happy Bowl Thai Bistro & BarCL00418267 Thai. Authentic Thai cuisine in a bistro atmosphere. There is also a full-service sushi bar.

Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808. 742.9888. bangkokhappybowl.com L, D, C, B/W Beach House RestaurantCL00418267 Pacific Rim. This award-winning, fine dining restaurant overlooking the sea it the perfect place for a romantic evening with that special person.

5022 Lawai Rd., 808.742.1424. the-beach-house.com.

L, D, C, B/W Eating House 1849CL005971 Regional. Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi’s take on traditional local fare. Try the spicy ramen.

Shops at Kukui’ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., 808.742.5000. eatinghouse1849.com.

D, C, B/W Grand Hyatt Kauai Lū’au008136 Lū’au. The seaside luau feast on the grounds of the Grand Hyatt

Kauai Resort & Spa begins with a lei greeting, open bar and Hawaiian games and crafts. The night’s featured show, Havaiki Nui, presents a cultural journey throughout Polynesia during the all-you-can-eat buffet dinner.

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, 1571 Pō’ipū Rd., 808.240.6465. grandhyattkauailuau.com.

D Keoki’s ParadiseCL0041829 Hawaiian Fusion. Enjoy local specialties for dinner such as the Koloa pork ribs, slow cooked and smothered in plum barbecue sauce or the “Keoki’s Style” fish, baked in a garlic, lemon and sweet basil glaze. Don’t forget to leave room for their specialty dessert—Kimo’s Original Hula Pie! Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808.742.7534. keokisparadise.com.

L, D, C, B/W Puka DogCL0041827 Hawaiian/American. Mouthwatering “bun-sized” loaves are pierced through to make a puka (hole) to fit a perfectly grilled sausage and the stores secretrecipe relish and sauces.

Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808.742.6044.

Ching Young Village Shopping Center, 5190 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.827.8000. pukadog.com.

L, D Ruth’s Chris Steak House008136 American. This newest location offers the same exceptional steak house experience.

Shops at Kukui’ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., 808.742.6044. ruthschris.com D, C, B/W TidepoolsCL0081367 Regional. Dine on fresh seafood and steaks under an open-air thatched-hut surrounded by waterfalls and koi-filled ponds.

The restaurant has won numerous awards from local publications and Zagat’s Survey.

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, 1571 Pō’ipū Rd., 808.240.6456. kauai.hyatt.com.

D, C, B/W

LĪHU‘E Naupaka TerraceCL0081369 Regional. Known for its breakfast during the day and contemporary island cuisine in the evening.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

THE WINE GARDEN

4495 Puhi Road, Lihu’e

(Across from the Kaua’i Community College)

(808) 245-5766 | www.kauaiwinegarden.com Kauai’s first specialty wine store, The Wine Garden offers a carefully selected collection of interesting and unique wines, both domestic and imported.

The Wine Garden also carries a wide array of beer from around the world, premium hand-rolled cigars, gourmet chocolate, and more.

Bamboo Grill & SushiC 0041Pacific Rim. This casual eatery offers a selection of local, American and Japanese dishes. 3416 Rice St., 808.245.6886 B, L, D, C, B/W Duke’s Canoe ClubCL008136 Seafood. Serving such island favorites as fresh local fish and huli-huli chicken along with a full salad bar. The Barefoot Bar offers sweeping views of Nāwiliwili Bay and a menu of local appetizers.

Kaua‘i Marriott Resort & Spa, 3610 Rice St., 808.246.9599. marriott.com.

L, D, C, B/W Hamura’s Saimin StandCL00253 Regional. Crowds often line up at this 40-yearold institution for a bowl of the famous homemade saimin.

The restaurant was honored by the James Beard Foundation as an “American Classic.”

2956 Kress St., Cash only,

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credit cards not accepted 808.245.3271.

L, D Hā Coffee Bar 0041Pacific Rim. An intimate

coffee shop that was built to resemble a classic old school bar.

Stop by for a slice of pie, açaí bowl or a pastry from such local bakeries as Heartflame Bakery and Mailani Sweet Treats. 4180 Rice St., 808.631.9241. hacoffeebar.com B, L WB’s Restaurant & GrillCL00253 Regional. Homestyle cooking that is satisfying. Serving a mix of local favorites and such Filipino dishes as lechon kawali. 2978 Umi St., 808.3203241 L,D, C, B The Wine Garden Specialty. The first

KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.

©STEVE CZERNIAK

Aqua Kaua’i Beach Resort, 4331 Kaua‘i Beach Dr., 808.245.1955. kauaibeachresorthawaii. com.

B, D, C, B/W

UIDE

1-3529 Kaumualii Hwy Ste A Hanapepe, HI 96716

808.431.4645

www.mcsgrill.com Monday-Friday 10:30am - 8:30pm Saturday 5:00pm -9:00pm Sunday Closed

specialty wine store on Kaua‘i with a large array of wines, international and domestic beers, cigars and gourmet foods.

4495 Puhi Rd., 808.245.5766. kauaiwinegarden.com.

Open daily

PRINCEVILLE 0Kaua‘i GrillCL0041832

Regional. With sweeping views of Hanalei Bay, this elegant hideaway promises a spectacular modern dining experience. The St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Rd., 808.826.9644. kauaigrill.com.

D, C, B/W

©STEVE CZERNIAK

Princeville Wine Market 041827 Specialty. This boutique wine store offers fine wines at every price point.

5-4280 Kuhio Hwy., 808.826.0040. princevillewinemarket. com. Open daily

WAIMEA Ishihara MarketCL005961 Regional. This familyowned grocery store is adored by locals who know to come

here for great pupus (appetizers) and takeaway meals. Find a large selection of fresh poke and everything from fish, sandwiches, bentos, shrimp, fried noodles, wontons, and ready-to-grill marinated kalbi ribs and teriyaki beef.

9894 Kaumualii Hwy., 808.338.1751.

Open daily Shrimp StationCL0081372 Seafood. A casual roadside eatery on the way to Waimea Canyon, serving fresh, sauteed peel-and-eat shrimp in a variety of sauces.

9652 Kaumualii Hwy., 808.338.1242. shrimpstation.com.

Open daily Wrangler’s SteakhouseCL008137 American. Large hand-selected cuts of steak and multi-course dinners in a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) atmosphere. Try the hot sizzling T-bone or tender sirloin. For a quick nibble, go to “The Saddle Room.”

9854 Kaumuali‘i Hwy., 808.338.1218.

L, D, C, B/W

DINI N G I N PA RA DI SE

33

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ITALIAN RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA

R I G H T O N THE BEACH 2013 Zagat award 2012 Zagat Rated Excellent

Also Specializing in Seafood and Steaks

2011 Zagat Rated 1999 Zagat Award 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013 -DiRoNa Award 2001, 2002 AAA Diamond Award 2009, 2010 -Fodor Star Award “One of the Top Ten” -Gourmet Magazine “A Honeymoon Destination” -Martha Stewart “Come for the True Amore” -Globe Trotter Travel Guide 2001 International Award of Excellence - Five Stars “Recommended” -Frommer’s Travel Guide Production Supervisor “Highly Recommended” -Trip Advisor

“Romantic Harp Music Every Night” Open 7 Days a Week Oceanfront Dining from 5:00 pm to 9:30 pm Dancing on Thursdays from 10:00 pm to 2:00 am (dress code) Located on the Beach at the Kauai Marriott ~ Free Valet Parking at the Hotel Reservations Recommended ~ Perfect for Weddings and Rehearsal Dinners

(808) 245-2121

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Seating is Limited!

Call Us: 826-PALI

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For “The Best Day of Your Vacation” Port Allen Office: 808-335-5309 Toll Free: 800-733-7997 • www.kauaiseatours.com *Tours may vary due to ocean conditions and seasonal changes Whale Watching Dec.-April, 24 hr. cancellation / reschedule policy applies