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CONTENTS
09.17
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
16
SHOPPING
20
7 Editor’s Note
XX
8 Hot Dates
Take a trip to Charlottenburg and check out the new shops on the block.
Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from outdoor opera to circus and music festivals.
SIGHTSEEING
39
XX
8
Visit the new Little BIG City for a miniature dose of the capital. MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
43
The XXunveiling of the great exhibitions of China.
22
DINING
49
Guten Appetit! Meat-free eating has gone gourmet.
XX
12 Penny Croucher A travel writer who continues to unwrap Berlin's secrets.
Musikfest – a three-week marathon of classical concerts.
62 Ask The Concierge
Sipping a drink in these cocktail bars has never been classier.
Recommendations from Martin Ruschitzka, concierge at Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm.
Where Now
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ON THE COVER
Following the footsteps of famous authors who once called Berlin home.
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The lowdown on traditional German brews and trendy craft beer.
18 Experiencing Art in the Everyday
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EXPERT TIPS FOR EXPLORING BERLIN'S BEER SCENE
12 Best of Both (Beer) Worlds
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SEPTEMBER 2017
Luisen-
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From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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BERLIN CITY GUIDE
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Also Inside
A month of contemporary art, book readings, and fabulous classical music
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66 My Berlin
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LOLLAPALOOZA: COURTESY OF LOLLAPALOOZA; SCHILLER MONUMENT: ©ISTOCK; BOOTS BY RED WING HERITAGE; BEERS COURTESY OF FOERSTERS FEINE BIERE; STILLS FROM KERSTIN HONEIT'S VIDEO "TALKING BUSINESS", © VG BILD KUNST AND KERSTIN HONEIT
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Experience great masterpieces. Already while driving to the ‘Museumsinsel’. Sometimes pure driving pleasure starts as soon as you turn the key. Visit www.porsche.de/drive to book your dream Porsche from the current model range or stop by our Porsche Drive location in Berlin, Franklinstrasse 32. Want to continue your journey? Porsche Drive is also available in Stuttgart, in Sylt or in Zug (Switzerland).
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Sarah Bethke
WELCOME TO BERLIN
Prost! Who would say no to a good jug of cold beer right now? In case you didn't know, Oktoberfest actually starts in September, officially on the 16th, and its merry vibe extends from Bavaria to the rest of Germany. Berlin, with its variety of traditionally made beers and new craft breweries, is one of the country's beer capitals and a great place to sample the national drink. To help you navigate the large expanse of Berlin's beer scene, Hilda Hoy had a talk with beer expert and author Joe Stange, so turn to page 12 for insider recommendations on the best brands, breweries, and Biergärten around town.
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GUTSCHEIN
September is not only "beer month" for Berlin, it's also back-to-school time for all the cultural institutions: the city's orchestras inaugurate the new season at the Musikfest (p. 54) with 19 days of fabulous concerts; the art world unites and talks to us common mortals at the Berlin Art Week (p. 18); and the Berlin Festival of Literature (p. 10) brings books and authors to town for inspiring readings. So, what are you waiting for? Get out there and make the most out of your stay!
SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
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HOT
DATES September in Berlin is packed with cultural events, from outdoor opera performances and circus to music festivals and book readings.
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9
LOLLAPALOOZA SATURDAY
In 2015, Berlin joined ranks with the original Lollapalooza Chicago as Europe’s first Lollapalooza location. In the past decades, Lollapalooza has transformed into an incredible two-day music festival that integrates different musical genres with food, art, street theater, sustainability, and even kids' adventures. This year's lineup at the Rennbahn Hoppegarten includes the Foo Fighters, Beatsteaks, Mumford & Sons, and many more. www.lollapaloozade.com
1
PYRONALE FROM FRIDAY
An elaborate explosion of color! On 1 and 2 September, pyrotechnicians from around the world take over Maifield at the Olympic Stadium and battle it out in a heated fireworks display set against a classical music program, trying to win the audience's vote and bring home the glittering Pyronale trophy. www.pyronale.de
STAATSOPER FĂœR ALLE SATURDAY
To celebrate the reopening of the Staatsoper Unter den Linden after years of renovations, the Staatskapelle Berlin will be performing a classic program under the direction of world-renowned Daniel Barenboim in a free-for-all open-air concert at 5pm on Bebelplatz. If you’re too exhausted after a full day of sightseeing, you can also livestream the event on their website. www.staatskapelle-berlin.de
30 BERLIN CIRCUS FESTIVAL UNTIL SUNDAY
3
Step right up, step right up to the festival of contemporary circus! Discover a breathtaking mix of circus shows, dance, and theatrical performance under the big top or wander around the Tempelhofer Feld (a historical former airport) taking in art exhibitions, live music, food truck delicacies, and unique festival atmosphere. A variety of workshops are on offer should you also wish to participate. ww.berlin-circus-festival.de
www.wheretraveler.com 9
10
HERITAGE DAY SUNDAY
On the Tag des offenen Denkmals, Day of Open Monuments, numerous monuments and historical buildings and sites usually closed to the public open their doors to visitors Europe-wide, with the aim of awakening people’s interest in preserving cultural heritage. Under this year’s motto “Power and Glory”, conservators take visitors on guided tours while archaeologists, restorers, and craftsmen are on hand to demonstrate their techniques, drawing attention to details that untrained eyes usually miss. www.tag-des-offenen-denkmals.de
6
LITERATURE FESTIVAL BERLIN FROM WEDNESDAY
Bookworms rejoice! Over the next 11 days, contemporary authors from around the globe will present their new prose and poetry to lovers of literature, all with English translations so everybody can attend and understand. The festival will be taking place at the Haus der Berliner Festspiele and other smaller venues around town, and as part of a citywide event to help launch the festival, everybody is invited to read a favorite piece of prose in a language and location of their choice, including U-Bahn trains, parks, or their doorstep. www.literaturfestival.com
3
OPENAIR GALLERY SUNDAY
Let your creativity unfold onto the pavement of the Oberbaumbrücke. Every year for the Open Air Gallery festival, this landmark bridge linking Kreuzberg to Friedrichshain gets transformed into an open-air gallery, with more than 100 artists displaying their paintings and sculptures and entering into dialogue with the beholder. A 120-meter-long canvas also invites visitors to create their own masterpieces. www.openairgallery.de 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
SEPTEMBER at the massive Pyronale fireworks 1 Marvel show today & tomorrow at Olympiastadion. Moderat, the popular Berlin electronic music 2 trio, plays at Wuhlheide. Head to Tempelhofer Feld to see the last day 3 of shows in the Berlin Circus Festival. Caffeine addicts: Catch the last day of the 4 Berlin Coffee Festival at Markthalle Neun. Admire the greenery at the massive IGA 5 garden expo out east in Marzahn. Musikfest continues with a concert from 6 Holland's top orchestra at the Philharmonie. the feast at the Street Food Thursday 7 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. on the dragon boats in this 8 Cheer afternoon's Media Cup at Oberbaumbrücke. the Foo Fighters and many more in this 9 See weekend's huge Lollapalooza festival. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 10 Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, 11 Catch one of few theaters to play movies in English. hip hop artist Princess Nokia will get 12 Indie the crowd jumping at Huxleys tonight. lovers, mark your calendars: Berlin Art 13 Art Week starts today at galleries citywide. to Friedrichstadtpalast for The One, a 14 Head splendid show featuring Gaultier costumes. colorful kites fill the air at this 15 Huge, weekend's kite festival at Tempelhofer Park. the spud-themed fun at Domäne 16 Join Dahlem's weekend-long Potato Festival. Shadow, master of experimental trip hop, 17 DJ& sampling, plays live at Festsaal Kreuzberg. Admire etchings by artist Lucian Freud, the 18 grandson of Sigmund, at Martin-Gropius-Bau. the fall foliage on a stroll around 19 Enjoy Schlachtensee, with a stop at Fischerhütte. the glamour of 1930s Berlin in the famed 20 See Cabaret musical at Tipi am Kanzleramt. Ditto, rock queen and Gossip singer, 21 Beth plays her new solo album at Huxleys. London trip hop and dub singer Roots 22 Manuva promises a lively concert at YAAM. Celebrate the weekend at Hopfenreich, with 23 Kreuzberg's biggest craft beer selection. the last day of the Handgemacht craft 24 Catch beer and street food fest at Kulturbrauerei. ready to dance at indie band Clap Your 25 Get Hands Say Yeah's show at Berghain Kantine. a musical lunch break at the 26 Take Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at 27 Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." swinging with The Big Chris Barber 28 Get Band's jazzy concert at the Philharmonie. singer-songwriter Tori Amos plays 29 Beloved her new, 15th album at Tempodrom tonight. to Bebelplatz for Staatsoper für Alle, a 30 Head free concert from Staatskapelle orchestra.
See listings for addresses and more info.
LOLLAPALOOZA: COURTESY OF LOLLAPALOOZA BERLIN, PHOTOS BY JOHANNES RIGGELSEN; PYRONALE: PHOTO BY M. H. VOGEL; STAATSOPER FÜR ALLE: COURTESY OF STAATSOPER FÜR ALLE, STAATSOPER BERLIN; CIRCUS FESTIVAL: ANALOG, © JAKUB JELEN; HERITAGE DAY: COURTESY OF TAG DES OFFENEN DENKMALS; LITERATURE FESTIVAL: PHOTO BY KLAPPERT; OPEN AIR GALLERY: COURTESY OF OPEN AIR GALLERY.
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
THE BEST OF BOTH (BEER) WORLDS The German capital is truly heaven for beer fans of all stripes. Hilda Hoy sought out some expert help to narrow down the best spots to imbibe.
12 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
WHERE NOW | BERLIN BEERS
LOCAL HIGHLIGHT:
BERLINER WEISSE
Above: The interior of Brauhaus Lemke; Left: Joe Stange; Right: A glass of Berliner Weisse with woodruff syrup.
G
ermany’s beer culture is, quite rightly, renowned around the world, and there’s arguably no better place than Berlin to drink in the breadth of it. From Weissbier to Rauchbier, Bock to Kölsch, famed regional specialties from around the country are well represented in the capital city’s pubs. But there’s so much more: Even a quick look around will show that the current craft beer trend has left a deep mark on Berlin. Dozens of local microbreweries have sprung up, as well as craft beer bars offering scores of exotic brews. What this means is that Berlin is where beer connoisseurs can truly have the best of both worlds: classic German brews, with the weight of centuries of tradition behind them, as well as trendy, diverse craft beers from every far-flung corner of the world. Whether you want to quaff liters of pilsner on a barstool with gruff and grizzled German gents on either side, or sip obscure Icelandic stout in a crowd of Englishspeaking hipsters, Berlin has just the spot for you. To get the lowdown on the city’s expansive beer scene, I met up with globetrotting beer journalist Joe Stange for – what else – a couple beers and a chat
about his favorite brews and bottles around town. Joe has called Berlin home for the last three years, plenty of time to drink his way through the best pubs, breweries, and craft beer dispensaries. Besides penning beer stories for publications around the world, the American writer also authored the guide Around Brussels in 80 Beers and serves as contributing editor for DRAFT Magazine (www.draftmag.com).
NEW VS. OLD It has been “really instructive” to arrive in Berlin just as the local craft beer scene was majorly taking off, Joe said between sips of a California-style steam beer made by the Beerbliotek in Gothenburg, Sweden. (His verdict: “tastes like a lager but with a bit more character.”) “It’s gotten hard to keep track of all the craft beer bars because there’s one opening practically every week.” As far as he’s concerned, however, traditional beer pubs needn’t feel threatened by the new craft upstarts – there’s plenty of room for both. In Germany, experimentation has long been suppressed under the Reinheitsgebot, or Beer Purity Law, a 16th-century Bavarian decree that permitted beer to be made using only water, barley, and hops. The law greatly
The capital’s very own beer specialty is the Berliner Weisse, a cloudy, pale, lowalcohol beer fermented with yeast and lactic acid to create its trademark sour taste. Even Napoleon was a fan, calling it “the champagne of the north.” Over the years, a tradition developed of serving Berliner Weisse with a splash of syrup to counteract sour notes. You'll find the most popular brand, Berliner Kindl, in shops, bars, and beer gardens mixed with the classic red (raspberry) or green (woodruff) syrups, and even new flavors like rhubarb. Small, local craft brewers are also taking up the Berliner Weisse tradition. Try the BRLO Berliner Weisse at BRLO Brwhouse (Schöneberger Str. 16, www.brlo-brwhouse.de), or the Brewbaker Berliner Weisse at Bierbar in the Arminiusmarkthalle (Arminiusstr. 2–4, www.markthalleberlin.com). w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 13
influenced German beer culture, Joe says, in both good ways and not. “It led to Germany having some of the world’s finest technical brewers but has certainly reduced the variety. There is no reason we shouldn’t let brewers play. It’s fun.” But no matter how trendy craft beer gets, there will always be value in tradition. “There’s an interchangeability to the craft beer culture that I find a bit boring,” he says. “You can go into a McDonald’s anywhere in the world and get a cheeseburger and it will taste the same. If you can walk into a craft beer bar anywhere in the world that looks like something out of Brooklyn, and drink an India Pale Ale that tastes like all the others… We don’t want to lose that sense of the local. I’m interested in beer that has a sense of place.”
GET DRINKING! A sense of place is what makes Försters Feine Biere (Bornstr. 20, www. foerstersfeinebiere.de) in Steglitz one of Joe’s favorites for “good, characterful German beer,” especially those from the Franconia region. Owner Sven Förster is more than a mere barman – he’s also a beer sommelier, and has the diploma to prove it. “It’s a neighborhood place, a bar for everyone,” Joe says. “You see young people and old, rich and poor.” His recommendation: “The pilsner from Schönramer, one of the best all-around breweries in Germany. It’s a good bitter pilsner with malt character.” Follow that up with a classic Altbier from Düsseldorf. Next up should be a night out at one of the city’s brewpubs. “As a beer geek, I like to look at shiny equipment and know the beer was brewed right there,” Joe says. “Most brewpubs are pretty reliable but Hops & Barley really stands out.” The Friedrichshain establishment (Wühlischstr. 22–23, www.hopsandbarley.eu) is a hip, friendly spot housed in a former butcher’s shop, with house-brewed pilsner, wheat beer, and rotating specials on top. Another local brewer is Oliver Lemke, “one of the
godfathers of the local craft scene,” who has been brewing since 1999 at Brauhaus Lemke (Dircksenstr. S-Bahnbogen 143, www.lemke.berlin), located under the S-Bahn arches by Hackescker Markt. Try the “Original,” a Viennese lager that’s the very first beer they ever brewed. Another classic local beer brand is Schoppe Bräu, the handiwork of Torsten Schoppe, brewed in Prenzlauer Berg and served at his Schoppe Bräu Taproom in Kreuzberg (Manteuffelstr. 53, www. schoppebraeutaproom.de). There’s also relative newcomer Berliner Berg, brewing rich Irish Stout as well as trendy Pale Ales, which you can imbibe at their Bergschloss taproom (Kopfstr. 59, www.berlinerberg. com). “I think their lager is one of my favorite beers in town,” Joe says. “Rich malt and plenty of character.” And finally, to experience global craft beer in all its dizzying variety, Joe’s current go-to is Neukölln’s The Muted Horn (Flughafenstr. 49, www.themutedhorn.com). With more than 20 varieties on tap and dozens and dozens of bottles, making up your mind won’t be easy. Giving them a run for their money is Hopfenreich in Kreuzberg (Sorauer Str. 31, www.hopfenreich.de), with 22 beers on top and countless bottles, brewed as nearby as Schöneberg and as far away as New Zealand. Cheers to that!
WANT TO
EXPLORE MORE? Take a walking tour of Prenzlauer Berg, which Joe calls “the United Nations of beer bars.” BIRRA: (Prenzlauer Allee 198, www. birrificiolambrate.com) Craft beers and tasty snacks from Italy. MONTEREY BAR: (Danziger Str. 61, www.montereybar.com) Aussie-owned, rock-and-roll-themed bar with more than 250 global beers in stock. SALT N BONE: (Schliemannstr. 31, www.saltnbone.de) Irish-owned gastrobar with craft beer and meaty pairings, including Scotch eggs and ribs.
Top: Owner Sven Förster serving beer at Försters Feine Biere; Center right: bottles of Berliner Berg. This photo: Tap at Hops & Barley.
14 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I SI EJPATN E UA M BRE YR 2013 2017
KOHLENQUELLE: (Kopenhagener Str. 16) A classic German local serving incredibly fresh Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank.
JOE STANGE: PHOTO BY HILDA HOY; BRAUHAUS LEMKE: COURTESY OF BRAUEREI LEMKE; FOERSTERS FEINE BIERE: PHOTOS BY OLE HEINRICH. BERLINER WEISSE WITH SYRUP: - CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER GIANT SLOTH; TAP: PHOTO COURTESY OF HOPS & BARLEY; BEER CLOSEUP: ©ISTOCK; BERLINER BERG, COURTESY OF BERLINER BERG.
WHERE NOW | BERLIN BEERS
WHERE NOW | LITERARY BERLIN
A TOUR FOR THE BOOKS
A
s the International Literature Festival (6-16 September) demonstrates, Berlin attracts many of the world’s most talented authors. That has been the case throughout history, as literary greats the likes of Franz Kafka and Vladimir Nabokov spent a significant amount of time living in, and gaining inspiration from, the German capital. One of the Berlin’s best-known English writers was Christopher Isherwood. His semi-autobiographical book Berlin Stories about a cabaret singer, gay couple and Jewish heiress living in the city on the brink of World War II, inspired the musical Cabaret. A memorial placard sits in front of his former flat, which he shared with singer Jean Ross, at Nollendorfstr. 17. In post-World War II Berlin, American author Henry Miller spent so much time at the sleek Savoy Hotel (www.hotel-savoy.com, Fasanenstr. 9-10) near Ku’damm that a suite is even named after his Tropic of Cancer, a racy novel banned in the U.S. for almost three decades after its original publication in France. Situated on the steps leading to Berlin’s former royal palace is the monument to Friedrich Schiller (Gendarmenmarkt 5-6, www.gendarmenmarkt.de), a statue paying tribute to the 18th-century poet, philosopher, and historian. Considered to be one of the most prominent lyricists of the German language, Schiller was also
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close friends with another German literary great, Johann Wolfgang van Goethe. Both writers were key figures in the Weimar Classicism movement. Fairytale masters the Brothers Grimm spent their lives in many different parts of Germany, but both enjoyed their final years in Berlin, devoting themselves to the German dictionary. Both are buried at the Old St. Matthäus Churchyard (Großgörschenstr. 12–14), situated in the “Red District” between two railway lines in Schöneberg. To see the final resting place of more renowned writers, visit the beautiful Dorotheenstadt Cemetery (Chausseestr. 126). There you can find the graves of acclaimed authors such as Christa Wolf, one of East Germany’s best novelists, and poet and playwright Bertolt Brecht. The latter’s former apartment nearby is now the Brecht Weigel Memorial Center (Chausseestr. 125), paying homage to where he and his wife, actress Helene Weigel, lived and worked. One of Berlin’s biggest literary landmarks is that in which literature was once destroyed. On November 10, 1933, the Nazis gathered for their largest book burning, setting flame to 20,000 books, many classics included. Now people can peer into a window at Bebelplatz 1 filled with empty spaces for the lost literature. A placard with a quote from Heinrich Heine reads: “When they burn books, they will in the end burn people.”
© ISTOCK
Self-proclaimed bookworm Rachel Stern follows the footsteps of famous authors who once called Berlin home.
ART FAIRS
EXHIBITIONS
RETROSPECTIVE
ART BERLIN STATION BERLIN
DANIÈLE HUILLET & JEAN-MARIE STRAUB AKADEMIE DER KÜNSTE
HARUN FAROCKI
POSITIONS BERLIN ARENA BERLIN
DANNY LYON C/O BERLIN
NEUER BERLINER KUNSTVEREIN (N.B.K.) KINO ARSENAL HARUN FAROCKI INSTITUT
ARTIST FILMS
DARIA MARTIN SCHERING STIFTUNG
L A>X KINO ARSENAL
FESTIVAL OF FUTURE NOWS 2017 → HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
SPECIALS
GEOFFREY FARMER SCHINKEL PAVILLON
ART AWARDS
PERFORMANCES BORIS CHARMATZ VOLKSBÜHNE BERLIN TEMPELHOF MIET WARLOP HAU HEBBEL AM UFER
SAVVY CONTEMPORARY
MONICA BONVICINI BERLINISCHE GALERIE
GALLERY OPENINGS
PORTRAIT OF A NATION ME COLLECTORS ROOM
PROJECT SPACES
THOMAS FEUERSTEIN HAUS AM LÜTZOWPLATZ WILLEM DE ROOIJ KW INSTITUTE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART WILSON DÍAZ DAADGALERIE
WWW.BERLINARTWEEK.DE
PRIVATE COLLECTIONS
WHERE NOW | ART FOR ALL
F
or various reasons, Berlin has been attracting artists from abroad for almost a century. During the Wall years, creative minds were lured to West Berlin by the unique political and cultural isolation and by its alternative scene; in the 1990s, artists came for the air of change and the inspiring atmosphere; after that, it was for the state subsidies and the cheap cost of living. In the last five years, things have changed again: The city is no longer as inexpensive as it used to be, but it certainly hasn't lost its cutting-edge creative soul, continuing to be a magnet for art makers and buyers from around the globe. As Berlin's art scene grows up and evolves into an affair for all budgets and ages, the annual Berlin Art Week (13–17 September) attempts to capture the city's happy chaos of galleries, exhibitions, and museums within an all-embracing, organized event. The multi-branch, multi-venued program, which includes gallery shows, parties, talks, presentations, and three fairs, aims to help both lay viewers and connoisseurs navigate the city's intricate art world.
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ABC BERLIN: KULTURPROJEKTE-BERLIN, FOTO: ALEXANDER RENTSCH; ART WEEK OPENING PARTY: KULTURPROJEKTE-BERLIN, FOTO: RICARDA SPIEGEL; ART WEEK FAIRS: KULTURPROJEKTE-BERLIN, FOTO: OANA POPA; STILLS FROM KERSTIN HONEIT'S VIDEO "TALKING BUSINESS", © VG BILD KUNST AND KERSTIN HONEIT; HANNE DARBOVEN, 1968© HANNE DARBOVEN STIFTUNG, HAMBURG / VG BILD-
Clockwise from top left: Berlin Art Week 2016; still from Kerstin Honeit's Talking Business, from 12x12 at Berlinische Galerie; Artist Hanne Darboven, whose works are shown at Hamburger Bahnhof; opening celebrations at Berlin Art Week 2016; a room of the Boros Collection; visitors admire art at the Berlin Art Week fairs; another still from Kerstin Honeit's Talking Business. This photo: an installation at Hamburger Bahnhof.
Clockwise from left: cycling along the Wall with Fat Tire Tours; Standert store; bike tours with Fat Tire Tours; a Standert bicycle.
EXPERIENCING ART IN THE EVERYDAY KUNST, BONN 2017 FOTO: BPK / © ANGELIKA PLATEN; BOROS COLLECTION © BOROS COLLECTION; EDWARD KIENHOLZVOLKSEMPFÄNGERS , 1975 / 1977 STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE1976 UND 1978 ERWORBEN DURCH DAS LANDBERLIN© NATIONALGALERIE IM HAMBURGER BAHNHOF,SMB, EIGENTUM DES LANDES BERLIN /JAN WINDSZUSESTATE OF EDWARD KIENHOLZ, 2017.
Solveig Steinhardt attends the events of the Berlin Art Week to understand the eclectic art scene of the German capital. FAIR PLAY For a good introduction to Berlin's scene, start by visiting one of the three art fairs. The biggest of them is Berliner Liste (www.berliner-liste.org), taking place at Postbahnhof from 15 to 17 September. Visitors can stroll around the 4000 sq.m. to admire contemporary paintings, graphic art, illustration, sculptures, and photography. The aim of the event is to "make art affordable again," and the atmosphere was deliberately made to be easy-going and down-to-earth. For that extra Berlin touch, this year an entire section of the fair will be dedicated to urban art, including mural art, graffiti, spray-painting, and political stencils, also exploring the culture of tagging and lettering. The second art fair, art berlin (www.artberlinfair.com), opening at the STATION-Berlin venue on 14 September, presents 110 local and international galleries focusing mainly on contemporary art but also celebrating post-war Berlin art through a selection of works from their collections. The fair also gives you a good excuse to visit the participating art galleries, all of which will inaugurate their new exhibitions at the same
time on the evening of the 15th. And for something with a strong political and artistic edge, visit the POSITIONS expo (www.positions.de), opening on the 14th at Arena Berlin to present the new contemporary trends dictated by local (and politically vocal) young artists.
ART IN THE BUNKER For those who want to explore the city's quirkiest art venues, this is the best time to visit Berlin's art bunkers, as they will be open every day of the Art Week without requiring prior registration. The most famous is the imposing WWII bunker on Reinhardtstraße in Mitte, home to the Boros Collection. Since its construction in 1941, the building went from war shelter to banana warehouse to '90s techno club, after which it was bought by art collector Christian Boros, who filled it with 1990s and 2000s art, also commissioning some site-specific works. Along similar lines, another bunker on Hallesches Ufer houses the Feuerle Collection, whose concept is to create a dialogue between periods and cultures by juxtaposing works by international contemporary artists and ancient Asian
furniture – and the contrast is stunning.
STROLLING AROUND Contemporary art is known for sometimes breaking the boundaries of what we consider art, often in unexpected ways. Installations, video art, and large sculptures may trigger strong emotions, or leave us with a sense of wonder. Experience that yourself in moving is in every direction at Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 48), exploring installation art in all its forms through site-specific works displayed around the museum's rooms. To learn more about the new narrative strategies of contemporary video art, visit 12X12 at Berlinische Galerie (p. 47). And while Thomas Olbricht's me Collectors Room celebrates the art of the United Arab Emirates by exposing the works of 50 artists in Portrait of a Nation, the fabulous photography gallery C/O Berlin (p. 47) in Charlottenburg presents Danny Lyon's touching absolute realism images of social themes such as the civil rights movements in the U.S.. Still can't get enough? Just take a walk around Auguststraße for a taste of Berlin's gallery district, living proof that Berlin Art Week happens every week of the year. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19
SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Top left and this photo: Talbot Runhof's collection; Bottom right and middle: Gretchen store.
New Shop On The Block Berlin has become an internationally acclaimed fashion hub and shopper's paradise, with enticing brands from all over the world. Here are some of the most noteworthy shop openings of 2017. If you’re already dreaming about summer next year, make a visit to Havaianas (Kurfürstendamm 210, www.havaianas-store. com) along West Berlin’s luxury shopping strip. This cult flip-flop brand from Brazil has become a fundamental part of the beachy lifestyle, with hundreds of color and model variations that have spread around the globe, even making their way onto runways of fashion designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier. Included in the collection are espadrilles and beach accessories too. Berliner design label for exclusive leather Gretchen has also joined the ranks on Kurfürstendamm (no. 216, www.mygretchen. com) this year. This is the second store in 20 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Berlin, and carries premium handbags, shoulder bags, clutches, and evening bags for every occasion, all designed by Anne Christin Schmitt. All products are handmade in traditional Italian and Spanish manufactories, and accessories such as gloves, wallets, and smartphone covers round out the offering. Going by the motto "going too far can be as bad as not going far enough," the Munich-based design duo Talbot Runhof (Schlüterstr. 50, www.talbotrunhof.com) opened their first Berlin boutique in December. These unconventional designers work with draping fabric, dress forms, and pins, resulting in distinct pieces with highly complicated cuts and unusual seam placement, all featuring irresistible details. Check out their cocktail and evening dresses, as well as day dresses, knitwear, sportswear, and accessories.
British fashion label Superdry (Kurfürstendamm 19-24, www.superdry.com) also opened in December next to the historical Café Kranzler at Ku'damm Eck. Starting off in 2003 with a collection of only five t-shirts, one of which is the “Osaka 6” worn by football icon David Beckham, they now focus on the whole range of clothing products, fusing vintage Americana and Japanese-inspired graphics with cool British elements and a winning worldwide appeal. This store is their largest branch yet, reflecting the design of their main store in London’s Regent Street and utilizing advanced technology throughout, such as LED screens and an interactive “magic mirror,” which allows you to try on new styles and share photos with friends via free Wi-Fi. Plans are also afloat for another flagship store at Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz 15 later this autumn, so stay tuned!
COURTESY OF GRETCHEN AND TALBOT RUNHOF.
Annabelle Mallia takes a shopping trip to Charlottenburg, excited by the buzz from the latest shop openings.
KurfĂźrstendamm 26a 10719 Berlin #ASICSBERLIN
asics.com
SHOPPING
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The best of the new fashion season, for when every day is casual Friday.
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1. Scarf by Replay, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 2. Dress by Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 3. Skirt by Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 4. Coat by Annette Görtz, Markgrafenstr. 42. 5. Shoes by Red Wing Heritage, Münzstr. 8. 6. Bag by Bree, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 7. Blouse by CINQUE, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
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8. Hat by Replay, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 9. Shirt by Ben Sherman, Rosenthaler Str. 31. 10. Gloves by Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 11. Shoes by Red Wing Heritage, Münzstr. 8. 12. Jeans by LTB, Rosenthaler Str. 38. 13. T-shirt by LTB, Rosenthaler Str. 38. 14. Coat by Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29.
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SHOPPING
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.
INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 63-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz.com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3
Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty
DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
The Other Black Gold Gendarmenmarkt is emerging as Berlin’s hotspot for chocolate connoisseurs, with Neuhaus being the new shop on the block. Their first store opened in 1857 in Brussels' prestigious Galerie de la Reine. Today, they are the market leader in luxury chocolate in Belgium. Try their classic BonBons, still made according to the original recipe, or icons Caprice and Tentation, filled with a nougatine biscuit and fresh crème or ganache. Besides chocolate, truffles, and pralines you can also indulge in hot or cold chocolate beverages, or select a beautifully packaged gift box for someone special. Nearby, Rausch Schokoladenhaus, Leysieffer, and German household name Ritter Sport offer even more chocolate delights. Friedrichstr. 63. T: 030 20633070. www.neuhauschocolate.com
© ISTOCK
BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4
Be Edgy
H A P P Y B I R T H D AY 0 8 .- 1 7. 0 9. 2 0 1 7 SWINGING SINGING SHOPPING THE GOLDEN 20s ALEXACENTRE.COM
With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www. be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Evelin Brandt This Berlin designer creates unique fashion for stylish women, including oversize fashion. www. evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153A. T: 030 2044444. U Französische Straße. E3
Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4
Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, www.wheretraveler.com 25
SHOPPING lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Gobi Cashmere
MaxMara
Onepiece
One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
Michael Sontag
Planet Berlin
The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex
Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as
The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4
Marc Cain
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PING SPE P O CT H S R THE BARGAIN HUNTER
Flanked by a towering department store, shopping mall, and multi-storey electronics store, Alexanderplatz attracts masses of shoppers with its big labels and chains. S+U Alexanderplatz
THE DESIGN GURU
Numerous labels cluster around Hackescher Markt. Around nearby Mulackstraße is where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers. S Hackescher Markt
WHERE TO SHOP.
With a total of four shopping malls, including the pleasant Boulevard Berlin, this street in the city’s southwest is a haven for shopping fans. U Schloßstraße
THE BROWSER THE LUXURY SHOPPER
THE MULTI – TASKER Combine sightseeing with premium shopping along Friedrichstraße. Luxury department stores like Galeries Lafayette rub elbows with high-end boutiques and key sites like the Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, and Checkpoint Charlie. S+U Friedrichstraße
Presided over by the venerable KaDeWe department store, Kurfürstendamm and Tauentzienstraße have long been one of Berlin’s major luxury shopping strips. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz ©ISTOCK
Bergmannstraße is made for browsing, with plentiful fashion, home, and lifestyle shops interspersed with cafés for taking a break. Visit Marheinekeplatz market hall for gourmet gift ideas. U Mehringdamm
THE INDIVIDUAL
This Kastanienallee artery leading from Mitte into Prenzlauer Berg is lined with small, independent shops where you’ll discover home décor, design objects, unique souvenirs, and pieces from small fashion labels. U Rosenthaler Platz
Tell us who you are, we'll tell you
THE ACTIVE SHOPPER
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THE SHOPAHOLIC
On Sundays, the Mauerpark flea market teems with bargain hunters. The small design and vintage shops on the adjoining Oderberger Straße, meanwhile, are open every other day of the week. U Eberswalder Straße
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A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.
Patrick Hellmann
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SHOPPING new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4
Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4
Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
UNIQLO
SHOES & ACCESSORIES bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger The quiet Suarezstraße in Charlottenburg Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. is the place to go for E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; antiques. S Hackescher Markt. F3
Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando. de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4
Boots & Shoes
With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2
New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2
Bread & Butter Are you ready to strut your stuff? Bread & Butter, the three-day fashion and lifestyle event will be taking place from 1 to 3 September at Arena Berlin and, unlike Berlin Fashion Week, it is open to the public and has been reshaped by new owner and online fashion retailer Zalando. Spread over several stages, it is sure to excite consumers with fashion shows featuring the latest collections from favorite brands such as Converse and Levi’s, fashion labs, and talks by bold personalities like Dame Vivienne Westwood. www.breadandbutter.com
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Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www. unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4
JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement
COURTESY OF BREAD & BUTTER.
Unützer
mavi.com
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rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Askania Founded in Berlin in 1871, Askania manufactures watches made to last a lifetime, combining precision with style and a touch of history. Visit the store housed in an old ballroom in the Hackesche Höfe, and try on Berlin-inspired models like "Alexanderplatz" or "Tempelhof." www.askania. berlin. T: 030.364285150. Rosenthaler Str. 41/41, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 1. S Hackescher Markt. F2
ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2
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a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2
vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3
KPM Berlin
Catherine Nail Salon
Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today, the royally founded company is known as KPM Berlin for short, but still makes exquisite, world-renowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break in the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystraße 1. T: 030 390090. S Tiergarten. C3
The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3
Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2
Pylones
One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and for its precision timepieces. www. wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3
These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
HOME DÉCOR
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Home on Earth
Babor
Located in the Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by
Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include
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Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4
Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3
ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
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wonderful to wander bikini berlin CONTEMPORARY FASHION, FABULOUS FOOD AND GREAT DESIGN American Vintage | Artek | Carhartt | Closed | Gant | Kusmi Tea | Labo.Art Lakrids by Johan Bülow | Mac Cosmetics | Mammut | Mykita | Premiata | Reisenthel Samsøe & Samsøe | Scotch & Soda | Teufel / Raumfeld | The North Face | Vans ... and many more exceptional stores and pop up boxes. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Straße 42– 50, 10787 Berlin Zoologischer Garten
www.bikiniberlin.de
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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.
This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de
Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West. Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home. Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com
Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
F A L K E ∑ P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY
STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95
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MALL OF BERLIN
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Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL
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Calvin Klein Jeans
Airfield
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
SHOPPING MAPS
Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de
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This young Berlin label stands for fashion with an attitude for both men and women. With rule-breaking contrasts and rebellious elements set against a timeless soul, Be Edgy provides young and cheeky individuals with perfectly cut leather jackets and accessories, all made with high-quality leather. Bring in discount code “whereXbeedgy” and get 10% off – valid until the end of 2017.
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Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.
MEINEKESTR.
Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com
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Beatrice creates opulent, bold and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses and dresses.
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UNÜTZER
Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.
BELLE REBELLE
The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.
Bleibtreustr. 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de 36 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique, and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.
Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm. T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com
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The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.
Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP
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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.
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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 37
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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.
BOOTS & SHOES
With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2017/18 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.
With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Dr. Martens boots have been a fashion statement since 1960. At Boots & Shoes, you can choose from many designs and colors of the legendary boot, plus other brands such as Hunter and Converse.
Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr
Dircksenstr. 49. T: 080 02070700 www.drmartens.com SHOP STOP
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NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.
An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu 38 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
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With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.
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HOME ON EARTH
CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR
Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.
It's heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes stocks the brand's line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy and a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices. And with their Magic Candy Factory, a 3D food printer, customers can easily create their own vegan fruit gum.
Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com
Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.katjes.de
THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING
The Big City In Little Doses
COURTESY OF LITTLE BIG CITY
Serene Tseng walks through the diminutive model capital, witnessing centuries of its monumental history up close. Berlin is a big city no doubt, and absorbing and discovering it in a day is just impossible – unless you visit Little BIG City, that is. This newly opened attraction from the creators of the Berlin Dungeon, Legoland, and Madame Tussauds Berlin presents the whole city in miniature form right at the foot of the TV Tower on Alexanderplatz. A labor of love over the past 30 months, this new, interactive and transformative exhibition brings visitors in with captivating special effects to see and experience Berlin’s rich 700-year history. This mini Berlin is inhabited by 5000 residents, including celebrities, ordinary citizens, and even bad apples, all of whom have been painstakingly researched and crafted with their own individual backstories based on real-life accounts. If you look closely, you'll be able to spot David Hasselhoff singing or catch Marlene Dietrich on stage, or even meet the 900-year-old ruler Albert the Bear.
And since the model was developed in stages to cover the different ages, you'll discover the medieval beginnings of Berlin and see how the plague epidemic swept through the city. Experience the Industrial Revolution, when machinery reached new levels of innovation and development, then walk next to the city during the Weimar Republic and the Golden ‘20s, when glamor, decadence, and expressive freedom seemed to define the capital. The crown of the Little BIG City is
undoubtedly the Reichstag, immortalized vividly aflame as it was on the night in winter 1933, right before Hitler seized power. The postwar years of destruction and reconstruction paved the way for a divided Berlin, and visitors can see the stark contrast between East and West. One final push of the Wall, and we’re in modern Berlin, its everchanging cityscape the sum of all of these past events. Panoramastr. 1A. T: 0180 6257106; www.officiallittlebigcity.com www.wheretraveler.com 39
SIGHTSEEING
MAJOR SIGHTS
Charlottenburg Palace
The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
style Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, Potsdamer Platz added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s picturesque park surrounding the castle includes beating heart, with department stores, banks, a formal French-style garden, English garden internationally known theaters, dance halls, with pond and statues, belvedere, and and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary 80 percent of the square, which was art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun left in limbo for a few years and 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). then enclosed in a no-man’s-land €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer between the Wall and barbed wire Damm 20-24. In 1995, artist Christo fences. The square came back T: 030.9694200. U Sophiewrapped up the to life in the 1990s as a modern Charlotte-Platz. A3 Reichstag in 100,000 reinterpretation of its original self. sq.m. of polypropylene Hackesche Höfe Divided in three slices, it includes the fabric. An intricate series of interconnected Sony building with its central plaza; courtyards provides an example of earlyDaimler City, home to a large shopping 19th-century German Secessionist style. The mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2 Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. and the area still retains its ancient character, The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. although most of the buildings in the narrow Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. now a museum. Other points of interest include T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3 the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeier-
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Siegessäule (Victory Column)
The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3
HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center
Let’s seg Berlin ways! Want to take in some culture while exploring Berlin in a unique way? CooLTourings offers guided Segway tours of Berlin's top 20 sightseeing highlights. Follow your guide and set off on your very own self-balancing electric Segway vehicle for a 1.5- or 3-hour Berlin City Center Tour along the Berlin Wall trail and the Spree river. On request, you can also book a private tour, passing by the Eastside Gallery, the Oberbaumbrücke, and THE WALL MUSEUM (www.WallMuseumBerlin.com). Book a group or private VIP tour online or ask your hotel concierge for help buying tickets. Meeting and starting point: Hotel Riverside & Café, Friedrichstr. 106 in Mitte. S+U Friedrichstraße. Daily tours start at 10am and 3pm. www.Seg-Berlin-Ways.de. T: 0179 3585390.
40 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly
SIGHTSEEING after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the
Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a
source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3
Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map
Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4
Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue
www.wheretraveler.com 41
SIGHTSEEING suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. Off Map
Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4
Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm:
Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map
Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.
Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association
has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de.T: 030.26321381.
Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Filmpark Babelsberg
Berlin is renowned for its museums. But before your kids start to complain tell them this one is especially for them. Labyrinth is an interactive museum for children aged three to 11, with seasonally changing themes for them to discover. The new exhibition is called 1, 2, 3, Kultummel and focuses on the all-important topic of diversity against a backdrop of global upheavals and refugees. Creative hands-on stations invite kids to freely play and explore and take a world tour of six continents. Activities include dressing up in traditional costumes at the boutique, going on a sensorial journey across deserts, oceans, and glaciers, playing with ingredients in the multi-cultural kitchen, and learning languages in the colorful bookstore. When you need to recoup, there’s a middle area where you can have a little picnic you brought from home or buy refreshments at the little café to keep you going all day. Kids will have so much fun, they won’t even realize they’re learning. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030 800931150. www.labyrinth-kindermuseum.de 42 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
COURTESY OF LABYRINTH KINDERMUSEUM
Diversity Is Fun
In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am– 6pm from April to October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map
MO YIROT, 1985FARBABZUG (2017), 81,1 X 58,1 CM© MO YI, CAI DONG DONG SCHIESSÜBUNG, 2016 SILBER GELATINE ABZUG, SPIEGEL, 100 X 100 X 100 CM© CAI DONGDONG; WANG NING DE EINIGE TAGE, NR. 30, 2005 SILVER GELATINE ABZUG, 50 X 60 CM© WANG NINGDE; DIENER FIGUR, TON, BEMALT, WESTLICHE HAN-DYNASTIE, 206 V. CHR. – 8 N. CHR., © SHANGHAI MUSEUM
THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Photos from the exhibition Working on History at the Museum of Photography. Inset, below: A clay figure from the Han dynasty, on display at the Neues Museum.
The Great Exhibitions of China Serene Tseng steps into the near and distant past, exploring China’s visual history. Although China and Germany are thousands of miles apart, in recent years the two countries have had a very close relationship, as testified by the two giant pandas that the Chinese government just donated to the Berlin zoo. To honor this cultural friendship, and to celebrate 45 years of successful diplomacy, this fall many Berlin museums are unveiling exhibitions featuring Chinese art and culture. The biggest of these is Working on History at the Museum of Photography (p. 46). Curated by a German-Chinese team, the show explores the visual history of contemporary Chinese photography. From 1966 to 1976, with the Cultural Revolution underway in China, photographers immortalized numerous historic moments. But whether it was group portraits, private photographs, or press
photography, these images were either treated as propaganda or censored by the regime. While Mao Zedong and his entourage were depicted as heroes during his reign, Chinese artists today are reworking the original photography to document the legacy and consequences of the Mao era. Different museum, different age: For the whole month, the Neues Museum (p. 47) presents a monumental exhibition exploring the parallel developments of ancient China and ancient Egypt. Since antiquity, these two cultures have been innovating in the art space and influencing the course of human history. China and Egypt. Cradles of the World, on show until 3 December, features innovations from 4500 BC all the way to 313 AD and is
divided into the five themes of writing, government, religious beliefs, funerary practices, and daily life. An unmissable highlight is the presentation of a Chinese jade burial suit displayed with an elaborately decorated Egyptian sarcophagus. Meanwhile, the Kulturforum (www. smb.museum) is preparing to open the first exhibition ever in Europe to feature Chinese portrait painting, a 2000-yearold genre that experienced a revitalization during the Qing Dynasty, when portraiture became so popular that even military personnel, women, and familial ancestors became common subjects. Faces of China. Portrait
Painting of the Ming and Qing Dynasty (1368-1912) will be on display starting 12 October. www.wheretraveler.com 43
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
MUSEUMS Altes Museum
INCL. SPECIAL
. JUL - 08. OCT
EXHIBITION | 07
OR S A L V AC D ENTURY
THE 21
ST
D A L ÍY:. DAND
open daily:
Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)
Last entrance: 7 p.m.
Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de (**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.)
Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 15 Oct: Dangerous Perfection – Ancient Funerary Vases from Apulia. Featuring thirteen large-scale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat– Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de.
Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 5 Nov: Syria Antiqua – Coins and Monuments on Museum Island. Showcasing coins from ancient Syria and artefacts of its prowess. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Oct: Kiss. From Rodin to Bob Dylan. Following the kiss in modern art. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
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© ISTOCK
Treasure Island Built on a small island in the Spree River is a unique ensemble of five museums: the Altes Museum (1830), considered to be Schinkel’s neoclassical masterpiece; the Neues Museum (1859), housing Egyptian and prehistoric collections; the Alte Nationalgalerie (1876) for 19th-century German and European paintings; the Bode-Museum (1904), renowned for its sculptures and Byzantine Art; and Alfred Mussel’s Pergamonmuseum (1930), housing artifacts from German excavations in Pergamon and Asia Minor (now partly closed for renovation). Illustrating the evolution of modern museum design and displaying 6000 years of human artistic endeavor, Museum Island was deservedly awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status in 1999. Lustgarten 1, Bodestr. 1 & 3, Monbijoustr. 3, Am Kupfergraben 5.
For Explorers!
opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 3 Sep: The Artists of Die Brücke – Paintings, Illustrations, and Prints. An interchanging selection of prints and paintings, in celebration of the museum’s 50th anniversary. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map
DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 29 Sep: Craving For New Pictures: From Broadsheet to Comic Strip. A display of the vibrant history of graphics in media. To 31 Oct: The Invention of Press Photography. Following the history of photography, told through the Ullstein press photo collection and the Berliner Illustrierte Zeitung. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon– Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www. sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
Hundreds of listings every month
The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 9 Oct: Winckelmann – The Divine Gender. Celebrating the influential and mysterious art historian Johann J. Winckelmann’s 300th birthday. To 16 Oct: Odarodle - An Imaginary their_ story of naturepeoples, 1535-2017. A re-examination of the history of the museum through a postcolonial lens. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4 MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 1 Sep: Veiled. An exploration of clothing and religion. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 14 Jan: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum. de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3
on History. Contemporary Chinese Photography and the Cultural Revolution. Exploring the lasting consequences of the Cultural Revolution. To 19 Nov: Mario Testino. Undressed / Helmut Newton. Unseen / Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party. Featuring Testino's fashion photos, Pigozzi's snapshot-like images of swimming pool guests, and a selection of Newton's own work. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 5 Nov: Sielmann! A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 2 Sep: Wenzel Hablik Expressionist Utopias. Featuring the expressionist avant-garde architecture and design paintings. From 29 Sep: Ed Atkins. Old Food. Atkins's multimedia work, united under evoking a physical reaction To 22 Oct: Lucian Freud: Closer. Featuring 50 etchings by one of Britain's most renowned artists. To 29 Oct: Regina Schmeken. Bloody Soil. Scenes of NSU Crimes. Photographs of crime scenes, commemorating the victims of the hate crimes. To 5 Nov: The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 Years in the World. Honoring the Reformation’s 500th anniversary, telling the story of its legacy worldwide. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www. memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Mark Chagall: The Modernity of Decorativeness. A one room show of Chagall's innovation in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 7 Jan: Working 46 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
New Happenings, New Works Several exciting changes are happening at the Gemäldegalerie (p. 46) in September! Starting from 15 September, the Melun Diptych by Jean Fouquet, a great two-panel masterpiece from the 15th century, will be presented in whole again, with the patron and Madonna and Child reunited for the first time in over 80 years. And welcoming visitors to the museum is the ongoing special exhibition In a New Light: Works In the Central Hall, with over 70 pieces, most of which have never been displayed before. The diverse representation of artistic eras, from early German, to the Renaissance, to Baroque, to the Enlightenment and beyond, will take center stage in the normallyempty central hall until late 2018, with works by Hieronymous Bosch, Lucas Cranach the Elder, Diego Velázquez, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Ghirlandaio (pictured).
DAVIDE GHIRLANDAIO, PROFILBILDNIS EINER JUNGEN FRAU, UM 1490, ÖL AUF PAPPELHOLZ, 44,60 X 34,40 CM, © BPK / GEMÄLDEGALERIE, STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, JÖRG P. ANDERS
Menschen Museum
Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 3 Dec: China and Egypt. Cradles of the World. A parallel exploration of two cultures and their innovations that spanned millennia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other testimonies to the ancient world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 15 Oct: Religious Wonder - Biblical Traditions in the Islamic World. Manuscripts from late Antiquity to Modernity, originating from the Middle East. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3
The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map
PORTRAIT OF A NATION
13.09. — 29.10. 2017 Auguststraße 68 10117 Berlin Mi-Mo, 12-18 Uhr me-berlin.com
ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Sep: Faraway Focus – Photographers Go Travelling (1880-2015). Photography as a way to explore the other and unfamiliar around the world. From 13 Sep: Monica Bonvicini. Berlin's University of the Arts alum returns for her first solo exhibition. To 9 Oct: Christine Streuli – Works by the Fred-Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4
Khalid Al Banna, Cycle of change (Detail), 2016, Courtesy of the artist. Part of the ADMAF Art Collection. © ADMAF
Contemporary Art from the United Arab Emirates Featuring works from the ADMAF Art Collection
A world of exhibitions
C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 10 Sep: Josef Koudelka. Invasion / Exiles / Wall. Works by the award-winning, exiled Czech photographer. To 10 Sep: Hans Hansen. Still Life. Photographs from 1957 to 2017. An exploration of
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES the German photographer’s work, both sensual and technical in nature. To 10 Sep: Optical Illusions . Contemporary Still Life. A reassessment and update to the genre. From 16 Sep: Willi Ruge . Fotoaktuell – Adventures With the Photographers. Photographs 1919-1953. From 16 Sep: Danny Lyon. Message to the Future. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 3 Oct: Roberto Burle Marx: Brazilian Modernist. A comprehensive exploration of Burle Marx's oeuvre, spanning landscape architecture, painting, sculpture, theater design, textiles, and jewelry. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.
deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery
as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map
MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Hamburger Bahnhof Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including The permanent collection of this former railway Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of station includes a selection of works from the Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the and Canaletto. From 17 May: In a New Light: many temporary exhibitions focus on Works in the Central Hall. Over 70 painting and sculpture from the past rarely-seen works on show in the 50 years, as well as videos, music, usually-vacant central hall. From 15 and design. To 3 Sep: Adrian Piper. Sep: Jean Fouquet. The Melun Diptych. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules Berlin has more than 440 The 15th century diptych is of the Game #1-3. An intimately contemporary art reunited for the first time in 80 galleries, which makes interactive installation of promises years. To 24 Sep: On Art and it the number one and principles. To 24 Sep: moving Connoisseurship. In Memory of Max J. gallery city in all of is in every direction. Environments – Friedländer – A Key Figure in the History of Europe. Installations – Narrative Spaces. To 17 Sep: Berlin Museums. Marking the Rudolf Belling. Sculptures and Architectures. connoisseur’s 150th birthday, featuring his Highlighting the oeuvre of the classical acquisitions. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), modernism sculptor. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture
Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Exhibitions closed for renovations until June 2018. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map
CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map
me Collectors Room
Newton’s Continuing Legacy When legendary fashion photographer Helmut Newton died, the Newton Foundation established that his works would always be showcased alongside those by his friends and colleagues, and the new three-part exhibition Mario Testino. Undressed / Helmut Newton. Unseen / Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party continues to honor this wish. Unseen takes many previously unseen works from the foundation archives and refreshes Newton’s trademark fusion of fashion photography and nude portraiture. Exploring the boundaries between nudity, eroticism, anatomy, and art, Testino’s Undressed consists of 50 floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall images of human landscapes. Opposite the largescale images is the small, spontaneous, snapshot-like images of Pool Party, taken on site at art collector and photographer Pigozzi’s A-lister holiday pool in southeastern France. Until 19 November at the Museum for Photography (p. 46).
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Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” From 13 Sep: Portrait of a Nation. Contemporary Art from the United Arab Emirates. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Commercial Galleries Galerie Hilaneh von Kories, to 15 Sep: Loïc Bréard, Arve Dinda, and others: 07–17 Review. Belziger Str. 35. www.galeriehilanehvonkories.de; CWC Gallery, to 16 Sep: Tina Berning, Michelangelo di Battista: Me and I - Part 2. Auguststr. 11 – 13. www.camerawork. de; Galerie Bernet Bertram, to 17 Sep: Jürgen Holtz. Goethestr. 2-3. www.bernet-bertram.de; Galerie Kremers, from 13 Sep to 29 Oct: Fiona Ackerman: Glass Lands. Schmiedehof 17. www. galerie-kremers.de; Galerie Kuchling, to 22 Sep: Various artists: Vineta Pavilion. Karl-Marx-Allee 123. www.galerie-kuchling.de.
JEAN PIGOZZI, NAOMI CAMPBELL WITH MICK AND BONO (THE DOGS), ANTIBES, 1993© JEAN PIGOZZI
Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee
THE GUIDE | DINING
Clockwise from left: Adding the finishing touches at Kopps; The interior of Kopps; Beautiful plating at Cookies Cream. Inset, below: Butternut squash carpaccio at Lucky Leek.
COOKIES CREAM: PHOTO BY RENE RIIS; KOPPS: PHOTO BY MATTEO CARASSALE; LUCKY LEEK: COURTESY OF LUCKY LEEK.
Veggies Gone Gourmet Think high-end gastronomy and meat-free eating can’t go together? Think again, Hilda Hoy says. Long gone are the days when dining meat-free meant compromising on taste or experience. Thanks to chefs who constantly push the envelope in vegetarian and vegan cuisine, Berlin’s dining scene now includes a whole variety of options for a special meal out – hold the meat. The chic and classy Cookies Cream (Behrenstr. 55, www.cookiescream.com) is undoubtedly the forerunner in this regard. A whole 10 years ago, when few chefs were interested in exploring the art of meat-free cooking, is when Stephan Hentschel first began wowing diners with his gourmet multi-course spreads. He elevates the gastronomic potential of humble vegetables while avoiding staples like tofu, pasta, and rice, which fill stomachs but don’t add flavor. Make sure to try the quail egg in brioche with truffle jus, one of Stephan’s signature dishes. The restaurant began as an offshoot of the once-legendary club Cookies, and though the club has since closed, Cookies Cream still
retains its nightlife roots. To find the entrance, you’ll have to venture down the service alley at the side of the Westin Grand Hotel and ring a doorbell, speakeasy style. Another cool Mitte spot is Kopps (Linienstr. 94, www.kopps-berlin. de), which picks up the concept of cool, high-end dining but pushes it even further to go completely vegan. Facing a pretty residential square near Rosenthaler Platz, the restaurant offers à la carte options as well as three- to five-course seasonal tasting menus complete with wine pairings, the way to go if it’s a night to splurge. The beautifully plated dishes creatively interplay the freshest seasonal produce, so depending when you visit, you might dine on the likes of grilled watermelon salad, pumpkin seed ravioli with fresh
horseradish, celeriac “steak,” or strawberry gazpacho soup. Likewise, Prenzlauer Berg’s Lucky Leek (Kollwitzstr. 54, www.lucky-leek.com) keeps the menu completely vegan. Though the vibe is slightly more down-to-earth than Cookies Cream or Kopps, the cuisine is no less refined. In fact, Lucky Leek was awarded a coveted “Bib Gourmand” ranking in the 2017 edition of the celebrated Michelin Guide, one of very few vegan restaurants around the world to receive this recognition. Marvel at chef Josita Hartanto’s handiwork with dishes like dainty raviolini stuffed with almond ricotta, or Asian-spiced consommé with sunchoke wontons, and to end the meal, a selection of her vegan “cheeses,” served with nuts and homemade fig chutney. www.wheretraveler.com 49
DINING
DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.
Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about
French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the
bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and
tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4
Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including
Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4
Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3
Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Reinstoff
CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4
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Having A Beef With Bagels Mixtape Bagel Burgers is an unlikely combination: both for its decadent burgers sandwiched in a bagel rather than bun, and for its Turkish and Kurdish co-owners. Childhood friends and hip-hop fans Yasin Duran and Meral Kiyak opened the cafe on a colorful street in Moabit, one of Berlin’s most diverse neighborhoods. Now, students and long-term locals alike feast on a fresh and filling menu divided by East- and West-Coast-themed selections: from the vegetarian “California Love” of fresh grilled veggies to the “Big Poppa” double cheeseburger. Through such diversity Mixtape promotes an overarching message, says Kiyak, “it doesn’t matter who you are” – burgers bring people together. Kirchstr. 2. www.mixtape.berlin
COURTESY OF MIXTAPE BAGEL BURGERS; BAGEL BURGER: © ISTOCK.
Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map
KREUZBERG Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373.U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website
for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4
Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kottbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4
PO TS D AM E R S TR AS S E 58 · 10 78 5 BERLIN 8 th F L O O R · TU E – S AT S TAR TI NG AT 6 PM RESERVATIONS: +49 30 89064222 · GOLVET.DE
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4
MITTE AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3
Monday to Sunday: 12.00 – 15.00 CET, 18.00 – 23.00 CET
+49 (0) 30 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com
The Grand Master Betriebs GmbH Hirtenstraße 4, 10178 Berlin
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DINING Borchardt
Servus Bavaria! Delicious german food and drinks, at Maximilians – the place to be.
German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www. hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2
India Club
Friedrichstr. 185–190 U-Bahnhof Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de
Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurantjolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag
Indian Cuisine
German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly
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baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www. maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s
traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2
PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so
good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed– Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2
AUTHENTIC NORTH INDIAN CUISINE BEHRENSTRASSE 72 | 10117 BERLIN OPEN DAILY: 18.00 – 23.00 BOOK YOUR TABLE: +49 30 2062 8610 WWW.INDIA-CLUB-BERLIN.COM
TIERGARTEN Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4
Café Einstein Stammhaus Austrian. A Viennese-style coffee house housed in an 1878 villa – a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with coffee and a book. Recommended: a slice of the café's famous apple strudel paired with a Wiener Melange coffee. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Paris-Moskau German/French. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two world wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German cuisines. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau. de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3 Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00
Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de
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All You Need Is Good Classical Music Solveig Steinhardt is ready for two weeks of glorious concerts. Music lovers, rejoice, it's September again! Every year around this time, Berlin's best orchestras get together for the Musikfest, a marathon of concerts that serve both as a celebration of Berlin's stellar classical music tradition and as a warmup session for the soon-to-open concert season. During the festival's 19 days (31 Aug–18 Sep), you can pick from 27 events performed by 20 instrumental and vocal ensembles, including the Berliner Philharmoniker, the Konzerthausorchester, the orchestra of the six-month-old Pierre Boulez Saal, and the ensemble of St. Hedwig's Cathedral. Although the program is a veritable journey through the ages, from the ancient music of 54 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
the early Italian Baroque to the contemporary sounds of Luigi Nono and of the great Korean composer Isang Yun, this year the spotlight will be on composer Claudio Monteverdi, born in Italy 450 years ago. Monteverdi, who spent many years serving at the court of Mantua, has been credited for helping Western music make the transition from Renaissance to Baroque by supporting a new and more expressive singing style and by creating a connection between language and music. In short, he invented opera as we know it today. His L'Orfeo, inspired by the Greek legend of Orpheus, is the earliest opera ever composed that is still regularly performed today. Do not miss this tale of love
and pastoral idyll, scheduled for 2 Sep at the Philharmonie. The Musikfest will also be presenting Monteverdi's other two famous operas, Il ritorno di Ulisse in patria (3 Sep), and L'incoronazione di Poppea (5 Sep). Other program highlights include the music of late-1800s composers such as Mahler, Bruckner, Berlioz, and Wagner, as well as a fabulous performance by Milan's Orchestra della Scala of Verdi and Brahms. And since attending a classical concert while visiting Berlin is as much a must as drinking a glass of beer or driving on the Autobahn, don't miss your chance to take in some of the best performances in the world! www.berlinerfestspiele.de
AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE MUSIK: © UWE ARENS; CHRISTIPH ESCHENBACH: © LUCA PIVA; THEODOR CURRENTZIS: ©ROBERT KITTEL SONY CLASSICAL; SHIYEON SUNG: ©YONGBIN PARK; ISANG YUN: PHOTO BY HANS POELKOW, BOOSEYHAWKES BOTEBOCK NERLIN ARCHIV.
ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2, 6, 9 Sep: La Traviata (Verdi). 8, 22 Sep: The Flying Dutchman (Wagner). 10, 16 Sep: Lohengrin (Wagner). 13, 17 Sep: Lucia di Lammermoor (Donizetti). 23, 29 Sep: Aida (Verdi). 30 Sep: The Magic Flute (Mozart). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results.10, 16, 30 Sep: Petrushka/ L'Enfants et les sortileges (Stravinsky/Ravel). 23 Sep: Eine Frau, die weiss, was sie will! (Straus). www. komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3
Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3 Sep: Grand opening of the season. 15, 21 Sep: The Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. 17, 29 Sep: Duato / Schechter at Komische Oper. www.staatsballettberlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
Lights... camera...Berlin! A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.
Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler
This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.
One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin. de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.
Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Sep: Isabelle Faust and Kristinan Bezuidenhout perfomr Bach and others. 3 Sep: Violinist Ilya Gringolts in concert. 4 Sep: The Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin performs ancient music. 10 Sep: Solisten des Ensemble Musikfabrik. 18 Sep: ZentralQuartett. 20 Sep: Jazz at the Philharmonic. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Konzerthaus
© ISTOCK
BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927)
This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1–3 Sep: Young Euro Classics. 8 Sep: Season opening with Konzerthausorchester and Iván Fischer. 16 Sep: Juan José Mosalini y su Gran Orquesta de Tango. 17 Sep: The Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain. 21– 23 Sep: Konzerthausorchester Berlin, cond. Michael Sanderling: Mozart and Bruckner. 30 Sep: Il Piccolo spettacolo, music by Rossini.
CABARET (1972)
WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.
RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.
THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.
Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!
Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de
THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 2 Sep: The Monteverdi Choir and the English Baroque Soloists (cond. Gardiner) perform Monteverdi's Orfeo. 3 Sep: The Monteverdi Choir and the English Baroque Soloists (cond. Gardiner) perform Monteverdi's Il ritorno di Ulisse in patria (Half scenic performance). 5 Sep: The Monteverdi Choir and the English Baroque Soloists (cond. Gardiner) perform Monteverdi's L'incoronazione di Poppea (half scenic performance). 6 Sep: Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra Amsterdam (cond. Gatti) plays Carl Maria von Weber, Rihm, Bruckner. 7 Sep: Orchestra MusicAeterna plays Purcell, Mozart, and others. 8 Sep: The Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin pwerforms Rihm, Mozart, Mendelssohn. 12 Sep: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Iván Fischer), works by Mahler. 13 Sep: Orchestra Filarmonica della Scala (cond. Chailly), music by Verdi. 18 Sep: Orchester der Deutschen Oper (cond. Runnicles) performs Berlioz and Wagner. 21–23 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Altinoglu) play Bartók, Ravel and Debussy. 28–30 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Gatti) play Hindemith and Brahms. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Pierre Boulez Saal
The best events in town
Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. boulezsaal. de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.
DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map
HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) ©ISTOCK
Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4
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Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts
performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3
Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2
MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5
ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4
presents
S A Y O N A R A
B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2
Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5
Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 12 Sep: The Sisters of Mercy. 30 Sep: John Legend. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
GEISHAS! TAMAGOTCHIS! EDELWEISS!
THE JAPAN VARIETY REVUE by Stephan Prattes
We invite you to a visually stunning and entertaining journey through the culture, lifestyle and music of Japan – in the heart of Berlin!
Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map
We celebrate: 25 years of the new Wintergarten
www.wintergarten-berlin.de | Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin
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ENTERTAINMENT
The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin
THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 9 Sep: Procol Harum. 19–24 Sep: Break the Tango. 25 Sep: Jethro Tull by Ian Anderson. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-
dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. The Komische Oper brings Many shows in German only. www. back forgotten cabaret pieces and German operettas bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. that were banned by 24. T: 030.8831582. the Nazis. U Spichernstraße. C4
A massive arena for worldtouring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 29 Sep: Tori Amos in concert. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
Blue Man Group
ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month
THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month
PARADE Chamäleon Theater, all month
CABARET Tipi am Kanzleramt, all month
SAYONARA TOKYO Wintergarten Variete, all month
The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Parade: Fear Love Circus. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
ROCK, JAZZ, POP THE SISTERS OF MERCY C-Halle, 12 Sep
JETHRO TULL Admiralspalast, 25 Sep
TORI AMOS Tempodrom, 29 Sep
Circus with a Contemporary Twist Since its reopening in 2004, Berlin’s Chamäleon Theater has been known for contemporary theatrical performances that colorfully combine multiple genres. A great example is the show PARADE, running until next February. In this latest masterpiece from internationally reknowned, Berlin-based director Brendan Shelper, astonishing acrobatics are blended with captivating dance choreography, 3D sound effects and interactive video installations. Focusing on the costumes people (figuratively) wear in their daily lives in order to celebrate, protest, or simply fit into a crowd, PARADE describes various aspects of human behavior with humor, imagery, and excitement. www.chamaeleonberlin.com 58 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
PROCOL HARUM Admiralspalast, 9 Sep
BALLET & CLASSICAL MUSIKFEST BERLIN Various locations, until 18 Sep
ORPHEUS (MONTEVERDI) Konzerthaus 2 Sep
YOUNG EURO CLASSIC Konzerthaus, 1–3 Sep
YOUNG EURO CLASSIC © MUTESOUVENIR KAI BIENERT. CHAMÄLEON THEATER COURTESY OF CHAMÄLEON.
KulturBrauerei
ENTERTAINMENT Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4
Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. All month: Cabaret. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Wintergarten Varieté
TORI AMOS: COURTESY OF PR AGENCY.
This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Sayonara Tokyo. www.wintergartenberlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz
Piano Performance From A Prodigy Piano prodigy Tori Amos has produced compositions for nearly as long as she could walk, and at the age of five became the youngest student ever admitted to the Peabody Conservatory of Music. Now, the American singersongwriter, whose eclectic musical career stretches over three decades, will be performing in concert on 29 September at Berlin’s Tempodrom. Amos will largely showcase songs from her most recent album Native Insiders, one of 15 solo albums that creatively combine her classical piano background, melodious lyrics, and catchy tunes while spanning several genres, including electronica and alternative. www.tempodrom.de
August 11 to October 1 Theater · Restaurant · Beer Garden Tickets from EUR 20,- // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de
Suitable for international guests www.wheretraveler.com 59
NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
A Touch Of Class Don’t drink just anywhere – visit one of Hilda Hoy’s sophisticated picks for cocktails with class. There is certainly no shortage of places to get a drink in this nightlife-loving city. From cozy corner pubs to rowdy dive bars to hipster spots, you could easily drink in a different place every night of the year and still be left spoiled for choice. But for those discerning cocktail connoisseurs who want to give their drinks the respect they deserve, high-end ambience has to be part of the package. Head to one of these classy cocktail bars to pass a night out in style. The elegant, old-timey atmosphere at Lebensstern (Kurfürstenstr. 58, www. cafeeinstein.com) makes it one of my favorites. This bar is on the upper level of a 19th-century villa in Schöneberg, above a grand, Viennese-style coffeehouse named Café Einstein Stammhaus. With antique oak paneling on the walls and dark leather armchairs, the look is reminiscent of a vintage gentlemen’s club – the kind of place that makes you feel like you should be sipping a 60 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Scotch and smoking a cigar. If high-end rum’s your thing, the bar’s collection includes more than 600 varieties, including some true rarities. Given its chic atmosphere, it should come as no surprise that champagne cocktails are a house specialty at Victoria Bar (Potsdamer Str. 102, www. victoriabar.de). I’d describe the look as classic 1930s, like stepping onto a film noir movie set. Pieces from the bar’s own art collection adorn the walls, and the dapper bartenders mix every kind of cocktail with aplomb. Try the Elderflower Royal, a lux blend of champagne, gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, and a lemon twist. Out west in Charlottenburg, Galander (Stuttgarter Platz 15, www.galander.berlin) is sporting a classic look of its own. The space is lovingly kitted out in the look of a 1920s
speakeasy, with a glittering chandelier, leather seats, and lots of dark wood. The owners also run an academy to train bartenders, so the cocktails here are top notch. Unlike those classically inspired joints, Mitte’s Bar Milano is all about contemporary chic (Brunnenstr. 11, www.bar-milano.de). It’s no surprise that an establishment inspired by one of the world’s fashion capitals would embody impeccable design, with a minimalist yet swanky interior starring a six-meter-long bar made of fine Italian marble. The bar’s concept is the aperitivo tradition of Northern Italy: post-work, pre-dinner hours of relaxing with friends over drinks and a few tasty nibbles. Toast to cocktail hour with aperitivo classics like the Negroni and Aperol Spritz.
VICTORIA BAR: PHOTOS KERSTIN EHMER AND KATJA HIENDLMAYER; LEBENSSTERN AND BAR MILANO: COURTESY OF LEBENSSTERN AND BAR MILANO.
Above left and left: Victoria Bar. This photo and above: Lebensstern; Top right and inset: Drinks at Bar Milano
NIGHTLIFE
BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbankberlin.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
WINE & COCKTAILS
COCKTAIL: © ISTOCK.
Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes.
Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafeberlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
Times Bar
CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3
KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3
TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3
WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4
HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3
CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1
GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4
PURO SKY LOUNGE
A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant. com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4
High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4
Staying near Friedrichstraße? Check out Bar Tausend (Schiffbauerdamm 11, www.tausendberlin.com) for excellent cocktails, live music, and a classy atmosphere.
Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4
THE PEARL
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.
BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Martin Ruschitzka, concierge at Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm, is here to help. www.lcdg.org Where do you take your visitors? I would take my visitors on a tour under the motto "500 years of the Reformation" and go on a day trip to Lutherstadt Wittenberg. Berlin insider tips? Bocci 79 Showroom & Archive for visionary art, the brewery tour at the BRLO Brwhouse at Park am Gleisdreieck, and Buchhandlung Walther König (the Bode Museum shop) for great illustrated books and unusual gift ideas. Berlin in three words: Large, heterogeneous, versatile. Where can you best relax? Lying on your back, watching the clouds in the sky at Preussenpark. Preferably on Saturday or Sunday, when you can also buy something to eat at the local Thai market. Tips for a German specialty? My favorite fish on any local menu is the Havel Zander – either fried, poached, or grilled. What makes Berlin different from other big cities? Berlin has more "democratic" places compared to other big cities. There are
62 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
hardly any places reserved only for the elites. This creates a sense of great freedom and is enjoyed by visitors even if they’re not aware of it. A favorite spot for romance? The restaurant ship Capt'n Schillow on the Landwehrkanal, hidden along the green bank near the Charlottenburg Gate of the Tiergarten park. An outdoor tip for a summer night? I really like the lights projected onto the façade of the parliament buildings every night until 3 October. History and cultural diversity come together here and you feel the connection. How would you recommend exploring Berlin? I’ve lately had the feeling everyone wants to explore the city with a Segway, Hot Rod, Trabi, or some other unusual vehicle. I would personally choose walking as the best means of transportation to see the city and its details. Images: A Trabi parked in front of the Berlin Wall: A monument to Martin Luther; The Reichstag.
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.
© ISTOCK. PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF MARTIN RUSCHITZKA.
ASK THE CONCIERGE
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
STATIOHNE OF T TH MON
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.
Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.
Don’t let the writing on the wall fool you. Since 2009, this S-Bahn station has been renamed Brandenburger Tor, though if you look around, you’ll still find places where the original, landmarkprotected name signage remains. The pale green tiles covering the walls hark back to the station’s opening in 1936, and were chosen to match the linden trees aboveground on the famed Unter den Linden boulevard.
Taxis
Tax-Free Shopping
Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
MONEY SERVICES
Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
Banks and Foreign Exchange
www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.
Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.
Rent a Car
American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Lost Cards and Cheques
MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG 0050.16; © ISTOCK.
Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690
Brandenburger Tor
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5
Sowjet Ehren
WHERE NOW | PENNY CROUCHER
My Berlin
PENNY CROUCHER AUTHOR
What brought you to Berlin in the 1980s? I studied German at university and had always wanted to live in Berlin. In 1984, when my husband was posted there with the British Army, my dream came true. I worked for the Berlin Bulletin, the newspaper for British Forces’ families, and was given a special pass to go over into East Berlin. In 1987, my articles were published as a book, Berlin – An English Guide to Known and Unknown Treasures. After returning to London, I became Head of Languages at a secondary school and accompanied school trips to Berlin. In 2012 I published my second book, Berlin Unwrapped. Like Marlene Dietrich, I have always kept a suitcase in Berlin. What are your thoughts on the ways the city has changed over the past decades? When the Wall fell in 1989, it was wonderful to see Berlin reunited, so I certainly don’t miss the Wall itself nor the political tension. Berlin is now a very different city, vibrant and stimulating. It is a hub of creativity, but is still feeling its way towards world status. The regeneration of disused spaces has been exciting. What is the focus of your most recent guidebook, and of your blog? In my book Berlin Unwrapped, I tried to include every place that I thought visitors would find interesting. One chapter describes the special character of each district and another has details of Berlin’s amazing lakes and forests. The last chapters are grouped under the headings 66 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
“Jewish Berlin,” “Hitler’s Berlin,” “Divided Berlin,” and “The Berlin Wall.” The object of my blog is to keep unwrapping Berlin, so I write about recent additions to the cultural scene or elaborate on places I could only describe briefly in the book. You have described Berlin as “more than a place, it is a state of mind.” Over the past century, Berlin has come through the most terrible times imaginable. It has always attracted outsiders who want to escape a restricted, provincial existence. Berliners have a straight-talking attitude and there is a collective feeling of wanting to escape any kind of dogma. Berlin isn’t just a place, but also a determined, free spirit. Where would you take a firsttime visitor to show them the essence of Berlin? The essence of Berlin is its ability to balance its dark past with edgy, modern culture. I always take first-time visitors to Clärchens Ballhaus, an old dance hall which combines nostalgia with fun, or to Crackers, a top restaurant in a former industrial-style nightclub. On a summer evening, there’s nothing to beat sitting by the river, perhaps at Strandbar Mitte opposite Museum Island. In winter, I take visitors to a traditional pub like Metzger Eck in Prenzlauer Berg or something
more avant-garde, such as Kirk Bar. Favorite recent discoveries? The fabulous Pierre Boulez Saal is the brainchild of Daniel Barenboim, linked to an academy for musicians from Christian, Jewish, and Muslim backgrounds. The Feuerle Collection is a stunning private art museum housed in a former bunker. And Park am Gleisdreieck is a community-led public park on an old railway site with rose gardens and trails. Imagine you had an entire day to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I like to escape the crowds and take the S-Bahn to one of Berlin’s lakes and forests. At Wannsee, I get the bus to the idyllic Liebermann Villa and lunch by the lake at Bootshaus Bolle or walk through the forest and take the ferry across to Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island). Or I head east to Köpenick, stroll around the palace grounds, then take a boat across the Müggelsee. But best of all, I like to cycle to Grunewald, swim in a lake, and visit friends who have a wooden house in a garden colony there. Clockwise from top left: Clärchens Ballhaus; Penny Croucher; the Pierre Boulez Saal; Penny Croucher's book, Berlin Unwrapped; Crackers Bar & Restaurant.
CRACKERS: PHOTO BY DANIEL REITER; PIERRE BOULEZ SAAL: PHOTO BY VOLKER KREIDLER; BOOK AND PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF PENNY CROUCHER.
It’s safe to say that few – if any – travel writers have been writing about Berlin in English for as long as Penny Croucher. It was 30 years ago that her first Berlin guidebook was published, and though she now spends much of her time back in London, she continues to write regularly about her second home on her blog, Berlin Unwrapped. www.berlinunwrapped.com
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