Oahu Inside Out July-August 2016

InsideOu

THE RESOURCE GUIDE TO OUR ISLAND

OAHU

J U LY + A U G U S T 2 0 1 6

Mango Madness Attendees reap the rewards at Mangoes at the Moana

TRUCKING ALONG

Food trucks find permanent parking spot in Ala Moana

RAVISHING RESERVE

Island residents can now get a taste of local beef

AMERICAN DREAM L&L Drive Inn celebrates its 40th year

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Contents D e pa rt m e n ts ISLAND LIFE

8 Walkabout A walking architectural tour of Honolulu through the eyes of Frank Haines.

Mo rsels

10 American Dream L & L Drive Inn is a story of success and perseverance for the past 39 years.

14 Sweet Sangria A refreshing summer quencher that’s best prepared ahead of time.

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18 Body & Mind The Prince Lot Hula festival combines traditional and contemporary dances.

36 Strumming Along The 46th Annual ‘Ukulele Festival Hawai‘i features a stellar lineup of local and visiting musicians.

O U T A N D A BO U T

INS AND OUTS

22 Events and Celebrations Mark your calendars for the Joy of Sake and the Made in Hawai‘i Festival.

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40 Not to Miss From a GLAM fashion show to a Kailua parade, it’s all about festivities during July and August.

F e at u r e s 24 Mango Madness For the eighth consecutive year, the Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa will put the spotlight on one of island residents’ favorite tropical fruits. by Simplicio Paragas 28 Trucking Along Various food trucks have found a permanent parking spot at Makers & Tasters, a parking lot that’s located next to the former Fisherman’s Wharf. by Mari Taketa 32 Where’s the Beef?

O‘ahu residents and visitors alike can now get a taste of pasture-raised beef — from New York striploins to rib eyes — at Kualoa Private Nature Reserve. by Lauren Hanley 4

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(from top left clockwise) ©steve czerniak; courtesy joy of sake; © Tony Novak-Clifford

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©STEVE CZERNIAK

CEO AND PRESIDENT

ed itor’s l etter

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Food Spotting

©steve czerniak

The local food scene continues to evolve. We now have food truck “parks” and pasture-raised stock.

And duing the next couple of months, we should reap an abundance of mangoes, which will be the tropical fruit du jour duirng the eighth annual “Mangoes at the Moana.” The event has grown since its inception and the caliber of chefs continues to get stronger.

Speaking of strength and longevity, retired architect Frank Haines is a living legend. At 95 years old, the candid tour guide leads groups to some of Honolulu’s famous landmarks. Along the way, he provides little nuggets of trivia that will surprise attendees.

Not surprising is the success that Eddie Flores and Johnson Kam have experienced with L & L Drive Inn for the past 39 years. And if the four decades are prescient of the future, new L & L locations will continue to open nationally and globally.

Food trucks can now be seen parked next to the old Fisherman’s Wharf on Ala Moana Blvd.

Makers & Tasters is what founders call a “food truck park.”

Drawing its own international attention is the 46th Annul ‘Ukulele Festival Hawai‘i, which will feature artists from Australia, Japan and Korea.

Founded by Roy Sakuma — another living treasure — the one-day gathering at Kapiolani Park attracts legions of strummers who have taken the tiny instrument to a new level.

Dancers during the Prince Lot Hula Festival have also raised the bar, performing both hula kāhiko (ancient) hula and chant, and ‘auana (modern) hula. The festival reflects Moanalua Garden Foundation’s commitment throughout the years to perpetuate the traditional oli (chants) and hula of Kamananui (Moanalua).

on the cover Moana Surfrider chefs David Lukela and Nanako Perez-Nava will participate in “Mangoes at the Moana” on July 16. ©Steve Czerniak

Simplicio Paragas senior editor J U LY+ AU GU ST 2 0 1 6

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Walkabout

A tour of downtown Honolulu through the eyes of an architect. by Gina Bailey Just call him grandpa.

And be prepared to keep up with the spry 95-yearold retired architect. For more than 20 years, Frank Haines has been leading groups to some of Hono8

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lulu’s famous landmarks.

Colorful and engaging, Haines’ two-and-halfhour, 23-stop walking tour features a bit of trivia, some humor and a lot of historical information.

“I’m enough of a ham to keep enjoying these tours,” chuckles Haines, the former president and chairman of Architects Hawai‘i and the principal

architect for many prominent architectural projects, including the Prince Kuhio Federal Building, Kaiser Moanalua Hospital, Kaiser’s Honolulu Clinic, Bishop Square and the restoration of the Ali‘iolani Hale. “I started these tours because I was surprised to find that so many of my friends didn’t know about the history of some of these great buildings.”

Meeting at 9 on a Saturday morning at the office of the American Institute of Architects Honolulu, our group of 10 received instructions on what to expect: Haines would lead and would only start his narration once everyone was gathered around him. Our first point of interest was the Stangenwald Building on Merchant Street. Haines points out that it was the tallest building in downtown Honolulu when it was built in 1901. The Italianinspired six-story office was also one of the first to have an electric elevator and the first to be “fireproof.”

“It still has the original chandelier,” says Haines, pointing to the light fixture. “It’s also on the list of the State Register of Historic Places.”

Also appearing on the same list is the Alexander & Baldwin Building, which extends an entire

©simplicio paragas

i sla nd l i f e

©simplicio paragas

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city block on Bishop Street. Built at a cost of $1.2 million, the steeland-concrete structure stands out as one of the masterworks of architecture from the 1920s and 1930s in Honolulu.

Some of the more notable architectural aspects include the extended upper floor balcony that imparts a residential look, the columned recessed entry with mosaic murals and the terra cotta-clad façade.

A collaboration between C.W. Dickey (who was Samuel Alexander’s grandson) and Hart Wood, the building’s interior and exterior feature countless Chinese details — including heads of water buffalo that jut out — to honor the contributions of Chinese labor to A&B’s success.

Haines notes that many of the buildings once had brick fronts, which have since been plastered to give a more “contemporary” appearance. Much of the area is now part of a preservation district, and while interiors can be changed, Haines asserts that exteriors must be kept to historical specifications.

One of Haines’ favorite buildings is the Ali‘iolani Hale, which he was proudly responsible for restoring

in 1975. While conducting research for the project, Haines says his team found a copy of a letter that King Kamehameha IV wrote to the Hawaiian consul in Sydney, Australia.

“In it, the king stated that he wanted to build a new palace, but since there was ‘no qualified architect in Hawai‘i,’ he requested proposals from Australian architects,” Haines recalls. “But King Kamehameha IV died long before construction ever began.”

Translating to “house of the heavenly chiefs,” Ali‘iolani is on the national and state registers of historic places, and

now houses the Hawai‘i State Supreme Court, the justices’ offices, a law library and the Judiciary History Center.

As we continued the tour and learned more about Spanish Colonial, Italian Renaissance, Romanesque and Neoclassical architecture styles, Haines’ steady pace never slowed and his narration never lagged.

Nearing the end of our tour as we stood at the corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, a woman in her car spontanteously yelled out, “You’ve got the best tour guide on the island.”

She was right.✽

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aia honolulu architectural walking tour Held on prereserved Saturday mornings from 9-11. Cost is $15 per person. Visit aiahonolulu.org or call 628-7245.

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M O R SE L S

American Dream

L&L Drive-Inn celebrates 40 years of hard work and satisfied bellies.

From a modest dairy business along Liliha Street to a growing international restaurant franchise, L&L Drive-Inn (aka L&L Hawaiian BBQ) has become a leading example of a momand-pop shop that’s evolved into a major corporation.

Formerly named L&L Dairy — after the fatherand-son business team of Robert Lee and Robert

JET SETTER From Hawai‘i to Las Vegas, pictured above, to New York, L&L has attracted customers with its hearty meals.

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Lee Jr. — L&L’s name and signature hearty meals have become as popular worldwide as they have been locally for decades among island residents. This year marks 40 years since founders Eddie Flores and Johnson Kam first opened L&L Drive Inn’s doors to customers, providing the popular local staple of a plate lunch.

Originally from Hong Kong, the Flores family came to Hawai‘i with hopes of providing greater opportunities for themselves and their children. L&L’s vice president and chief operating officer Bryan P. Andaya says Flores’ experience as an immigrant in the workforce helped pave his work ethic and set precedence for his Continued on page 12

COURTESY L&L HAWAIIAN BBQ

by Kristen Nemoto

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M O R SE L S

(Clockwise from top right) L&L Hawaiian BBQ’s Plano, Texas location; L&L founders Eddie Flores, left, and Johnson Kam; seafood mix plate with pork chop; L&L’s first location on Liliha Street; Indonesia location.

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Continued from page 10 adult career as a real estate agent specializing in buying and selling restaurants.

“What’s really inspiring about our franchises is that they have become a vehicle for the American dream,” says Andaya. “These franchise systems give our employees the opportunity to buy and enter the business world, and become owners relatively easy.” |

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But don’t take Andaya’s words of “relatively easy” lightly, he says. The process to become an L&L business owner is “easy” in comparison to starting a completely new business plan from scratch, but success is only achieved with labor intensive hard work and laser sharp determination.

“You know all of us work hard at our jobs but this is something different,” Andaya asserts.

“We’re talking seven days a week. Holidays. Weekends.

Day and night, 365 days a year. It becomes your life.

But you can be anybody by working hard, believing and becoming a leader.

“I’ve seen so many come in and start off and see where they were and

where they are today,” he adds. “It’s really an American dream.”

Andaya can relate to L&L’s success through his own beginnings in Hilo. His parents were immigrants from the Philippines — his mother picked macadamia nuts; his father was a sugar-cane farmer. Although Andaya moved to the mainland to study law in Oregon and Chicago — and eventually moved back home to become a successful attorney on O‘ahu — he felt a calling to L&L after he met Flores as a client in 2000. After creating a relationship through several years of handling some of Flores’ cases and discussing the overall business of the L&L franchise, Flores offered Andaya the job as L&L’s COO in 2008.

With nearly 200 restaurants worldwide, it’s not a surprise that L&L owners and workers may be on the same track to success as Andaya and Flores. Andaya hopes to see more restaurant openings and wants to create more opportunities for aspiring business owners.

“I think I have the best job in the world,” he says.

“There’s still a lot more opportunity for growth.

The sky’s the limit … We’re making dreams come true and spreading the aloha.” ✽

COURTESY L&L HAWAIIAN BBQ

✽

Experience Hawai‘i’s farm-fresh flavors 25% KAMA‘AINA DISCOUNT LOCATED AT SHERATON WAIKIKI COMPLIMENTARY SELF-PARKING KAIMARKET.COM | 808-921-4600

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l i q u i d a sse t s

Double the Sangria A twosome of refreshing sangria options

Fun fact: Sangria was a popular libation served at swanky parties and stylish soirees during the 19th century, yet didn’t catch on in North America until it was first introduced in the Spanish Pavilion at the 1964 World Fair in New York. Since then, its indisputable popularity has continued to develop and grow, especially during summer.

In its simplest form, sangria is a spiked punch from Spain typically made with red wine, fruits and other add-ins, yet there are more opinions as to the correct way to make it than you can shake a stick at. Even so, the consensus is that a sangria is only as great as the quality of its ingredients, and since sangria is all about being simple, approachable and refreshing — not to mention modestly priced — for the most authentic flavor, choose a favorite yet inexpensive Spanish red, such as Garnacha, Carinena, Tempranillo or a blend of these (or other) grapes. Many reds from Portugal, Argentina or Chile will also work well.

Variations on sangria can include replacing red wine with white wine or Cava (sparkling wine from Spain), while for a different yet tasty take in this ever-popular sipper an array of other ingredients can also be swapped in. Consider adding different fruits (think apples, kiwi, blueberries or melon), adding a splash of fresh-squeezed fruit juice like lime or even mango, or replacing the brandy with apricot brandy or lychee liqueur.

Whichever sangria you stir up, your guests of honor are bound to be pleased as punch. A tu salud!

Citrus Berry Sangria

1 cup pitted cherries or halved strawberries ¼ cup sugar Pinch of sea salt 2 oz brandy 1 well-chilled bottle Spanish-style red wine

Makes: 4 to 6 servings Quench your thirst with this classic-style sangria.

1 each lemon, lime and small orange, thinly sliced into rounds 14

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In a pitcher, stir together |

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lemon, lime, orange and cherries with sugar and salt; let stand for between one and two hours.

Add brandy; slightly mashing or mudding fruit with large wooden spoon.

Stir in wine; cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Just before serving, stir in plenty of ice cubes.

Beer Sangria

6 oz orange liqueur like Cointreau or Triple Sec ¾ cup peach nectar ¾ cup pineapple juice ¾ cup lemonade 1 ½ cups red seedless grapes, stems removed 1 peach, thinly sliced 1 small orange, thinly sliced into rounds 3 well-chilled bottles (12-ounce each) wheat beer

Makes: 4 to 6 servings While admittedly more akin to perhaps a shandy than traditional sangria, nevertheless, this beerbased sangria is ideal for dads (moms, too) served on the patio or at backyard barbecues. If desired, wheat beer can be replaced with your favorite lager.

In a pitcher, stir together orange liqueur, peach nectar, pineapple juice and lemonade. Stir in grapes, peaches and oranges; cover and refrigerate for between two and six hours.

When ready to serve, stir in beer and pour into ice cube-filled glasses.

cocktail recipes by alison kent. photo by eugene bochkarev.

By Alison Kent

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Open daily from 5:00 to 10:00pm.

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M U SI NG S

Body and Spirit

When the Prince Lot Hula Festival was established in 1978, kumu hula Vicky Holt Takamine’s hālau, Kumu Pua Ali‘i ‘Ilima (Royal ‘Ilima Blossom), was the first to be invited. They’ve been coming ever since.

“The Prince Lot festival embodies hula,” says Takamine, who started her hālau in 1977. “All the elements of hula are represented in this beautiful setting: the sun, the breeze, the vegetation, the trees — these are the inspiration for hula.”

A cultural treasure that was once forbidden in the ahupua‘a (district) of

Prince lot hula festival Named in memory of Prince Lot Kapuāiwa, who later reigned as King Kamehameha V, the festival was founded in 1978.

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Moanalua, hula was revived in the late 1800s by Prince Lot Kapuāiwa, whose name bears the title of this largest and oldest non-competitive hula festival in the state.

This year, more than 12 hālau are expected to participate in the 39th Annual Prince Lot Hula Festival on the pristine grounds of Moanalua Gardens, Saturday, July 16, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; and Sunday, July 17 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Themed “Mo‘olelo O Moanalua…Stories of Moanalua,” the festival reflects Moanalua Garden Foundation’s commitment throughout the years to perpetuate the traditional

oli (chants) and hula of Kamananui (Moanalua).

For Takamine, hula is not merely a dance; it’s her life. And the Prince Lot ranks among her top favorite cultural festivals. “This is more about ‘ohana and sharing,” she says. “Everyone who attends loves hula; it’s one of the richest hula experiences on the island.”

With crowds swelling to as many as 10,000 each year, this festival has become the signature hula event on O‘ahu. Not only has it attracted island residents but visitors have also started to gravitate toward the event.

“We are very pleased to see how much the

Courtesy Moanalua Gardens Foundation

Prince Lot Hula Festival combines modern and ancient dances. by Gina Bailey

CoUrTeSy MoAnALUA GArdenS FoUndATion

festival is enjoyed by both kama‘āina and malihini,” says MGF executive director and president Alika Jamile in a released statement. “With encouragement from kumu hula and supporters, we will continue our new tradition started last year of two days of great hula to include dancers from out-of-state branches of Hawai‘i-based hālau. We will have some new activities this year, which we will announce at a later date.”

The festival will feature both hula kāhiko (ancient) hula and chant, and ‘auana (modern) hula performances. Dancers will perform on one of the few remaining pā hula (hula mounds) in Hawai‘i. In addition to hula, the festival includes a craft fair, cultural practitioners, and food and beverages for sale. A limited edition T-shirt will also be available.

Admission is free, however, attendees are encouraged to buy a souvenir button to help support the festival.

“I have to thank Moanalua Garden Foundation for keeping this alive,” Takamine says. “Most events have a shelf life and the energy eventually dies, but the Foundation has done a fabulous job perpetuating hula for the love of hula.”

Visit moanaluagardensfoundation.org.✽

unexpected elegance Leeward Community College Open for lunch on Wednesdays through Fridays during the Fall and Spring semsters.

For reservations, please call 455-0475

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Il Lupino Trattoria & Wine Bar Doraku Sushi The Cheesecake Factory Noi Thai Cuisine — ¯‘ina La ¯nai Food Court Pa — “Rock-A-Hula” - Legends Waikı¯kı¯

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Events and Celebrations There’s a lot to see and hear this summer, from a colorful event celebrating Greek culture to the annual Made in Hawai‘i festival.

Here’s a quick glance at events and shows during July and August.

Joy of Sake

July 22 Rice wine enthusiasts won’t want to miss this event that will showcase an extensive line of premium sake styles in the junmai, ginjo, daiginjo and kimoto categories, many of which are not otherwise available in the U.S. These include sakes which have received silver and gold awards from the U.S. National Sake Appraisal, a rigorous blind tasting conducted by 10 judges from the U.S. and Japan held every year in Honolulu. www.JoyofSake.com

More than 100 antique dealers will participate in the 26th Annual Hawaii AllCollectors Show at the Blaisdell. www.ukulele.com August moon August 5

The Honolulu Museum of Art’s summer wine and food event features more than 30 winemakers and food from top O‘ahu chefs and restaurants. www.honolulu museum.org

Locals Only

Slack Key Guitar fest August 14

August 19-21 From a freshly made SPAM musubi to the intricate weavings of a lauhala mat, you know when you’ve come across a product from Hawai’i. For three days, island residents and visitors alike can attend the 22nd annual Made in Hawai‘i Festival, a showcase of more than 400 exhibitors and cooking demonstrators. Admission is $5; children age 6 and younger are free. www.madeinhawaiifestival.com

The twangy riffs from some of O‘ahu’s top slackkey guitarists will perform live at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach Hotel. www.slackkey festival.com 22

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It’s Ag-Tastic!

July 9-10 The grass is definitely greener on the other side … at least for the 54th annual Hawai‘i State Farm Fair, which returns to the green fields and rolling landscape on the Windward side of the island. The two-day event will feature food, education exhibits, eating contests, entertainment and keiki rides. www.hawaiistatefarmfair.org

Grecian Formula August 27-28 Combine souvlaki, baklava and dancing then throw in some arts and crafts and you’ve got the ideal Greek Festival at Ala Moana Park. www.greekfestival hawaii.com

(clockwise from left) courtesy joy of sake; courtesy Hawaii State Farm Fair; courtesy greek festival hawaii; ©randy t. fujimori

Vintage show July 17

P r e s e n t i n g ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢

The 2016-201 7 HOT Opera Sea son

La Bohème

Three Decembers

October 14, 16, 18, 2016

A Streetcar Named Desire Januar y 27, 29, 31 2017

March 24, 25, 26 2017

Tales of Hoffmann April 21, 23, 25 2017

To S u b s c r i b e , p l e a s e c a l l t h e H O T B o x O f f i c e a t 808.596.7858 or go to HawaiiOpera.org.

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Fruit of Their Labor Attendees reap the rewards during Mangoes at the Moana.

By Simplicio Paragas | Photos by Steve Czerniak The sweet smell of mangoes pleasantly evokes childhood memories for most island residents. Ryan Loo remembers having slices of mango after swimming in his auntie Ruth’s pool during the summer.

Nanako Perez-Nava recalls how prized the queenly fruit is in her native Japan. And David Lukela still can’t believe he lost the “Mango Throwdown” two years ago.

“Being thrown in the Mango Throwdown is actually one of my favorite memories,” laughs Lukela, chef de cuisine at the Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa. “I wanted to win but I didn’t; there were a lot of good chefs competing.”

Now in its eighth year, Mangoes at the Moana is a daylong event that celebrates the nutritionally rich tropical fruit. Known for its unique flavor and fragrance, the mango is an integral part of our culture, according to Mark Suiso of Makaha Mangoes.

“I was watching ‘Ratatouille’ one time and when that big French critic tasted something so simple, it brought him back to his childhood years,” says Suiso, the self-described Johnny Appleseed of mangoes. “That’s what the mango does for me and many others. To me, no fruit trees in the yard means no soul.”

Not native to Hawai‘i, the mango found its way to the islands like many of our other favorite foods — via ship. In Hawaiian Annual and Almanac for 1909, Thomas G. Thrum writes that Captain John Meek of the brig Kamehameha

brought the first mango trees to Honolulu from Manila in 1824. The Rev. Joseph Goodrich and Don Francisco de Paula Marín, a Spanish immigrant and talented horticulturalist, received these trees, which were the source of a mango strain known today as the Hawaiian race.

Thrum further notes that in 1885, O‘ahu businessman Joseph Marsden imported some seedling mango trees and grafts from Jamaica. By 1929, G. P. Wilder and S. M. Damon had imported a number of new mango genus from other countries.

Later the Hawai‘i Agricultural Experiment Station of the U. S. Department of Agriculture introduced several new varieties, including Hawai‘i’s most popular backyard tree, the Haden.

While Haden and Pirie are perhaps the two most familiar mangoes, participating growers hope to expose attendees to the Mapulehus, Gouveias and Rapozas. “They’re named after the families who grew them,” says Candy Suiso. “My J U Ly+ AU GU ST 2 0 1 6

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(Opposite page) During July, Nanako Perez-Nava will incorporate mangoes into her desserts, including coconut panna cotta, macarons and mango bread. (Above) Fried calamari will be served with a chilimango sauce.

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mangoes at the moana

Mangoes at the Moana July 16 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Mango Mixdown Noon to 2 p.m.

Lower Veranda Mango Throwdown 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Participants include chefs James Aptakin (MAC 24/7), Chris Kajioka (Senia), Ed Kenney/Maggie King (Town), Ronnie Nasuti (Tiki’s Bar & Grill), Mark Noguchi/Chuck Wakeman (Pili Group/Mission House), Andy Reagan (Morimoto Waikīkī) Michelle Karr-Ueoka (MW Restaurant), Leanne Wong (Koko Head Café) Admission is free and guests are welcome to taste each chef’s creation for $6 per plate. There will be a ticket pre-sale for those who are interested in purchasing prior to the event. The pre-sale will give guests 10 tickets for the price of eight. The two extra tickets can be used towards the purchase of cocktails at the Southern Wine & Spirits booth. Pre-sale tickets can be bought at the Honolulu Box Office through July 15. Tickets for the Throwdown and cocktails will also be available in the lobby on the day of the event. For information about “Mangoes at the Moana,” call the Moana Surfrider at 808-922-3111 and ask for the concierge desk.

(this page) ©shutterstock

Now in season, mangoes come in various varieties, from Hadens and Piries to the Mapulehus and Gouveias.

(Opposite page) Chef David Lukela’s featured mango dish will be a crispy soft-shell crab with pickled mangoes.

family has one that’s called the Reuben Special, named after my dad.”

Likening it to a wine tasting event, Mark Suiso explains that each mango variety possesses a distinct flavor and finish, much like a Pinot Noir red grape differs from a Cabernet. “The Rapoza, for example, is unique to Hawai‘i and I simply tell people that it melts in your mouth,” he says. “Others are milder in flavor and have different tastes characteristics and profiles.”

The county fair-like atmosphere in the Banyan Courtyard will feature a Farmer’s Market where guests can talk story with local growers who are all too willing to share their pruning and grafting techniques, as well as their fresh ripe mangoes. A silent auction will be held in the lobby with proceeds benefiting the Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Kapiolani Community College.

Meanwhile, Lukela and Perez-Nava will stage cooking demonstrations, teaching guests how to prepare mangoinspired dishes.

“It’s such a versatile fruit,” says Perez-Nava, the resort’s pastry chef. “It can be used to prepare a savory dish or a sweet one.”

Participating chefs in the Mango Throwdown will put their best mango recipe forward, leaving it up to attendees to vote on their favorite dish. “It’s a chef-driven event,” says Loo, the hotel’s food and beverage director. “This event has definitely gained in popularity.

Locals come down for the day and our hotel guests get a taste of Hawai‘i.”

“In Japan, mangoes are so expensive and some of them are only bought for a special occasion,” Perez-Nava says. “A single mango can sell for $300 but that type of mango is really a special fruit that’s grown in a very specific way.” ✽

It’s a chef-driven event. This event has definitely gained in popularity. Locals come down for the day and our hotel guests get a taste of Hawai‘i.

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Trucking Along O‘ahu’s food truck scene finds a permanent parking spot.

by Mari Taketa | Photos by Steve Czerniak

(Opposite page) Flyin’ Ahi offers fresh poke bowls.

Tea on Fleek’s iced teas are infused with fresh ingredients. Enjoy a meal outdoors.

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One look around Hawai‘i’s largest food truck rally can be overwhelming: Rows of trucks in all the colors of the rainbow stretch in each direction on Honolulu’s waterfront, interspersed with lines of street food tents. On offer is an only-in-Hawai‘i mix of North Shore line-caught fish and chips, kimchee fried rice with local-style smoke meat, lau lau plates, deep-fried musubi and lilimansi pot pies. If you’re hungry in paradise, Eat the Street is the place to be.

But wait. Lili-what? “It’s my take on Key lime pie,” explains Kathy Masunaga, proprietor of the Sweet Revenge pot pie truck. “It’s made with lilikoi and calamansi juice in a graham cracker crust and finished with whipped local cream. We think it’s better than plain old Key lime pie, which is usually made with bottled juice.”

As with every truck, there’s a story behind Sweet Revenge. The bright pink truck and its unusual name came about after Masunaga’s divorce, when the newly single mom decided to pursue her love of baking. Specifically, she baked pot pies. Masunaga started with basics like chicken pot pies, fresh mango pies, chocolate haupia pies. Then she cut loose. On her constantly rotating menus, lilimansi now takes its place next to Sake Bomb pie (sake-soaked plums atop custard), Chocolate Pig pie (it’s topped with bacon), Pineapple Right-Side-Up pie, Beef Shepherd’s pie and her consistent bestseller, the original chicken pot pie.

The growth of contemporary food trucks on O‘ahu is not unlike that of Sweet Revenge’s menu. In the fall of 2010 there were none. Then two newcomers appeared and jumpstarted the scene: Melt, selling gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, and Kogi, an L.A.-style Korean taco truck. Month after month, these trucks were followed by more. “They were the risk takers,” says Poni Askew. “Just by happenstance, all the risk takers came into the market at the same time. It made it feel explosive and profound.”

By January 2011, when Askew and her husband Brandon put on the first Eat the Street, half of the 10 vendors were new food trucks. Honolulu’s appetite for street food was such that more than 1,000 eaters overwhelmed the tiny lot next to Ala Moana Center. Starting the next month, Eat the Street became a monthly food fest, drawing thousands each time.

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(Above) Flyin’ Ahi’s fresh poke bowl. (Opposite page) Inferno’s wood-fire pizzas yield a crispy crust that can be topped with such ingredients as olives, fresh Ho Farms tomatoes and basil.

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Eat the Street’s roster is now up to three dozen street food vendors, of which a third are trucks. They rotate to accommodate a growing waiting list.

Poni Askew estimates there are more than 100 food trucks now roaming O‘ahu, the majority of them only 12 to 18 months old.

Among the newest is Flyin’ Ahi, which debuted last July. It’s a poke truck, of course, started by former nurse Leroy Melchor and his wife Loke, a teacher. To Poni Askew, Melchor represents the best kind of food truck entrepreneur: wellstudied and meticulously prepared. “He took probably six to eight months securing a well thought-out business plan. He went to Oregon and worked with someone building a truck for him,” she says.

Flyin’ Ahi’s poke bowls center around selections of the fresh fish but are already customized for the carbconscious, the health-conscious and

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even those who want to make their own nori-wrapped sushi rolls. Red meat eaters can get kalbi, barbecue pork and guava smokies all in one plate.

Hungry yet? The eating has just begun. Locavores will want to take note of a stark black truck parked next to a small tent selling locally sourced jams and raw honeys. This is Hawaiian Fresh Farms, the food truck arm of a North Shore farm that grows the produce for the dishes it creates. While there’s never a shortage of locally sourced choices at Eat the Street, it’s probably safe to say that Hawaiian Fresh Farms is the ultimate locavore truck. On the menu one Friday night: North Shore goat cheese cheesecake, grass-fed burgers and fresh line-caught fish and chips.

On cool nights, the line at another black truck grows. Kamitoku, one of the island’s few ramen trucks, specializes in beef bone broth. In a city teeming with ramen restaurants serving up tonkotsu, or pork bone broth, this makes Kamitoku even more of a rarity. Not shy on flavor, the straight-from-Japan operation ladles over chewy noodles a savory soup redolent with garlic and the umami of slow-cooked beef bones.

Last October, the Askews celebrated another milestone: the opening of a permanent food truck park — Makers & Tasters — at the old Fisherman’s Wharf on Ala Moana Boulevard. Not only that, Poni Askew says it will get even bigger. That’s not to say that food trucks aren’t roaming the island on any given day, their locations broadcast on their Facebook pages and Instagram accounts. But when you’re hungry for the full range of the island’s street flavors, well, you know where to go.✽

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The Ravishing Reserve Pasture-raised Beef of O‘ahu

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©asdfUlla feuismo digniam

Prized for centuries, the 4,000 acres of hills and valleys known as “Kualoa” is a destination worth exploring. Located on the northeastern side of the island, the area is made up of three ahupua‘a (ancient, wedgeshaped agricultural Hawaiian land divisions) known as Ka‘a‘awa, Kualoa and Hakipu‘u.

Over time, because all three are owned by one family, the name Kualoa has come to encompass to all three ahupua‘a. It’s also often referred to as Kualoa Ranch. A ranch it is, a grand and successful one. But Kualoa is also so much more, hence its recent name change to Kualoa Private Nature Reserve.

In ancient times, prior to the arrival of Captain Cook and, later, the missionaries, this area was a residency and training ground for kings, and a pu‘uhonua, sanctuary, for others. Today, it remains one of the most historically significant places on O‘ahu. Its owners, the Morgan family, focus their energy on education and land preservation and stewardship, furthering these causes with educational activities and tours.

The Morgans inherited the property from their great-great grandfather, the missionary Dr. Gerrit Judd, who gave up his United States citizenship to become a full-time advisor to King Kamehameha III in 1842. In the mid-1850s, Kamehameha sold Judd the first section of land that was to become Kualoa. Since that time, the property has been a sugar plantation, a

©asdfUlla feuismo digniam

By Lauren Hanley

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military airstrip and defense battery, an aquaculture facility, countless movie sets and a mecca for visitor adventures.

Sustainable food is the latest, though not the least, initiative that the family has sought to undertake, and the results are delicious.

Though the ranching operation has been alive and well since the 1870s, the product itself was not available to the people of Hawai‘i until 2010 — cattle were brought to weight and shipped to the mainland. Now, locals and visitors are finally getting treated to this grassfed, ranch-raised, dry-aged local beef.

There are more than 600 head of cattle on the ranch, comprised primarily of Black Angus. Traversing the valleys on any of Kualoa’s many adventure tours, you’ll see them speckled across the mountains, napping, chewing, romping, staring — doing what cows do best.

They drink from creeks, sleep under trees, east lush green grass and — we hope — enjoy the jaw-dropping views of the ocean and Mokoli‘i (also known as Chinaman’s Hat). As one ranch visitor so

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(previous spread, from left) ©Rita Ariyoshi/photolibrary; ©Photo Resource Hawaii/Alamy (from top) ©Photo Resource Hawaii/Alamy; ©rebecca pike

Visitors to the reserve can explore the area on horseback then enjoy succulent Korean-style kalbi beef with pineapple slaw.

succinctly put it, “I think they lead pretty happy lives.”

So do the chickens that roam freely through groves and whose eggs are used at the restaurant. Sustainable practices are vital to Kualoa’s ecosystem, which also includes the Moli‘i fishpond where oysters grow in floating cages and are harvested weekly.

At the restaurant, visitors have a chance to savor the beef, whether in the juicy cheeseburger or the succulent Korean-style kalbi beef with pineapple slaw. The beef’s complex, all-natural flavors are right on target. Kualoa’s dryaging process lasts 14 days, during which natural bacteria and enzymes break down the meat, leaving it marbled with an earthiness and depth to its flavor.

Grass-fed beef has a lot more flavor and freshness in its taste when compared to its grain-fed counterpart.

Island residents can also order the ranch’s beef cuts (prime rib, T-bone, ground beef and more) by the pound at the restaurant, on their website or over the phone. They’re flash-frozen solid and take six to eight hours to defrost at room temperature. Also available at Kualoa is delicious pipikaula, smoked with local kiawe wood to bring out the rustic flavor profile of this local favorite.

When you drive all the way out to beautiful Kualoa, make a day of it. Whether you’re horseback riding through Ka‘a‘awa Valley, getting an education at the 800-year-old Hawaiian fishpond or taking photographic evidence that you were indeed on the sets of “LOST,” “Jurassic Park” and “50 First Dates,” the backdrop to your adventure will be dotted with freeroaming cows, real-live examples of yet another big step in Hawai‘i’s quest for true sustainability.✽

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Strumming Along Annual ‘Ūkulele Festival continues to grow.

Roy Sakuma still vividly remembers his life-changing moment while having lunch at the bandstand.

Working as a groundskeeper in Waikīkī, he made a promise to himself: one day he would put on a free ‘ūkulele festival. Forty-five years later, the now-69year-old continues to stage the annual ‘Ūkulele Festival Hawai‘i.

“In the ’60s, it was all about the guitar and the ‘ūkulele was thought of as a toy,” Sakuma recalls.

“I wanted to change that image and elevate the ‘ūkulele’s status as a serious solo instrument.”

‘Ūkulele festival hawai‘i More than 15 worldclass musicians, including Willie K, pictured below, and acts from around the world will appear at this year’s festival at Kapiolani Park.

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by Gina Bailey

For an instrument no bigger than a pineapple and no greater than a hula dancer’s prop, the ‘ūkulele has come a long way.

A worldwide following and enthusiasts, like Jake Shimabukuro, Jack Johnson and Aidan James, have taken the instrument far from behind the scenes.

The “granddaddy of all ‘ūkulele festivals,” as Sakuma so merrily puts it, was the first of its kind in the world. “Everyone thought of (the ‘ūkulele) as a secondary instrument,” he says. “But overtime, everyone just started to fall in love with it.”

Now more than just a free concert, ‘Ūkulele Festival Hawai‘i has aged into a festivity drawing people from across the globe to see, hear and appreciate the four-string, two-octave instrument.

For the 46th time on July 17, the lilting sounds and camaraderie among the festival’s attendees will fill the very place that inspired Sakuma’s dreams.

Out-of-town performers include ‘Ūkestralia (Australia); The Bohemian ‘Ūkuleles and Sunset Strummers ‘Ūkulele ‘Ohana (California); Fulare-Pad, LeaLea ‘Ūkulele Garden and Swima & The Special Swimanians (Japan); and Kolea ‘Ūkulele Friends and U Rock (Korea). Herb “Ohta-san” Ohta, Willie K, Danny Kaleikini, Paula Fuga, Aidan James, Herb Ohta Jr., Kalei Gamiao, Nick Acosta and the Roy Sakuma ‘Ukulele 700 piece Ukulele will also take the stage. Other events include the ‘Ūkulele Festival Hawai‘i Gala on Friday, July 15 at the Pacific Beach Hotel’s Grand Ballroom beginning at 5:30 p.m.

Seats are $85. For reservations or more information, e-mail gala@ukulelefestivalhawaii.org or visit www. ukulelefestivalhawaii.org.✽

©Tony Novak-Clifford

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Take the walk D I S C O V E R over 45 one-of-

a-kind boutique shops, weekly activities & live performances and award-winning restaurants.

Open 365 Days, 10am–10pm Located on Lewers Street between Kalakaua Avenue & Kalia Road +1 808.931.3591 WA I K I K I B E AC HWA LK .c o m

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A quick glance at events and celebrations during July and August.

Mark your calendars and enjoy an annual parade, hula performances, a runway worthy fashion event and music by award-winning local artists.

coming soon Eat andagi September 3-4 If you only have a moment to spare during the first weekend of September, head out to Kapiolani Park and enjoy the Okinawan Festival’s andagi dessert (Okinawan donut).

Independence Day

July 4 Patriotic Kailua residents will get their American flags out and get the grills going once again as the 70th annual Fourth of July parade marches down the mile-long stretch of Kainalu Drive. A firework display will conclude the evening. www.kailuachamber.com

treasured memories September 3-24 Throughout the month of September, thousands will celebrate Hawai‘i’s unique melting pot history and culture during the 70th annual Aloha Festivals.

Beyond The Sea August 13 Listen to performances by Nā Hōkū Hanohano winners Nā Leo Pilimehana and Willie K during Sea Life Park’s Makapu‘u Twilight Concert Series. Family and friends are invited to partake in the Sea Life Park experience while enjoying live entertainment under the Windward side’s summer night sky.

The concert will be held from 7 to 10 p.m. www. sealifeparkhawaii.com

Trick or Treat October 31 Honolulu’s Chinatown will get their costumes ready as the Chinatown Arts District presents the Hallowbaloo Music + Arts Festival.

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Northern Exposure July 16-17 Since 1997, local artists have flocked to Hale‘iwa and eventually a small group of them decided to create their own organization to showcase their artwork. The following year the Hale‘iwa Arts Festival was organized. Check out this year’s festival at Hale‘iwa Beach Park. www.haleiwaartsfestival.org

GLAMorous Fashions

July 21-24 Project Runway’s and Hawai‘i’s own local boy Kini Zamora returns to help produce the fifth annual Goodwill Goes GLAM! at the Blaisdell Exhibition Hall. www.higoodwill.org

(clockwise from top) courtesy Kailua chamber of commerce; courtesy goodwill hawaii facebook; hawaii tourism authority (HTA)/tor johnson

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Old Industrial Park 74-5599 Luhia St. Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 Ph: 808 329-6500

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