WhereTraveler New York GuestBook 2019-2020

New York

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For tickets call 212-698-2000 or visit

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ROCKEFELLER CENTER TOUR Discover the brilliant history behind the art and architecture of Rockefeller Center A guide will lead the way through the famous streets, buildings and landmarks that make up this wondrous “city within a city,” and unveil the treasured and inspiring stories that comprise John D. Rockefeller Jr.’s true vision of the Center.

Guests will follow their guide and listen with their own personal headset to ensure that they have a clear, uninterrupted experience. This closed circuit connection makes the tour unique amidst the hustle and bustle of New York City. With such a wealth of ground to cover, it would be impossible to see it all in just over an hour.

Therefore each tour differs slightly from the next, giving visitors a unique experience with every tour.

TA K E T H E R O C K E F E L L E R CENTER TOUR AND VISIT TOP OF THE ROCK WITH ONE A L L- A C C E S S R O C K P A S S

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

A NEW YORK STATE OF MIND Welcome to New York City! Whether you’re a newbie to Gotham or someone lucky enough to return again and again, you don’t need me to tell you that there’s no place on Earth quite like New York. As a native son, born in Manhattan, I congratulate you on your travel savvy in choosing to spend time in my hometown.

So, what’s on your itinerary? This edition of Where Traveler® GuestBook is jam-packed with suggestions.

First off, make a beeline for Hudson Yards, Manhattan’s newest neighborhood (“First Look” and “Parting Shot”). You can spend an entire day there.

Next, you’ll want to dress the part: Blend in with locals, but definitely stand out. Brian Scott Lipton’s tour of cutting-edge and under-the-radar apparel stores (“Always in Fashion in New York”) tells you how.

In case you’re feeling a bit homesick, jet-setter Joni Sweet knows exactly where you can find a “Taste of Home.” And if, like me, you gravitate to restaurants with big portions of pizzazz and breathtaking decor, Meryl Pearlstein knows one or two—several actually, and they’re all designed by Tony Award winner David Speaking of Broadway … you're taking in a show on the Great White Way, right? Depending on who you are, I pair you up with a play or musical (“Broadway Census & Sensibility”). And selfconfessed, lifelong theater nerd that I am, I urge you to come back in September 2020, when Hugh Jackman sings, dances and charms his way into town in the hotly anticipated revival of “The Music Man.” It’s the show and star turn I’m most looking forward to.

If art and architecture are your thing, read Terry Trucco’s article on the Guggenheim Museum (“One of a Kind”). Frank Lloyd Wright’s not-to-be-missed spiral of a building on Fifth Avenue turned 60 in October 2019. But this treasure house is nowhere near retirement age.

Finally, as you travel around the city by subway, I ask you to open your eyes. Incredible works of art—by famous artists no less—aren’t just in museums but in subway stations and on subway platforms, too (“Underground Art”).

With this much to see and experience, don’t you think you should stay an extra week?

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Francis Lewis Editor, WhereTraveler ® GuestBook, New York

PHOTO: CENTRAL PARK’S MALL AND LITERARY WALK IN FALL

Rockwell (“Table for Two With a Side of Drama”).

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A CAN’T–MISS BROADWAY EVENT!

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NBC

©Disney

St. James Theatre 44th Street & 8th Avenue FrozenTheMusical.com

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GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY!

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CONTENTS 12

FIRST LOOK Brand-new and emblematic sights around this great city.

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ALWAYS IN FASHION IN NEW YORK Here are 11 stores where you can find that unmistakable Big Apple look.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

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TASTE OF HOME You’ll never feel homesick in NYC, not with these 27 restaurants serving comfort foods from around the world.

BY JONI SWEET

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TABLE FOR TWO WITH A SIDE OF DRAMA David Rockwell designs restaurants with the same razzle-dazzle he brings to his award-winning Broadway sets.

BY MERYL PEARLSTEIN

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BROADWAY CENSUS & SENSIBILITY Have you ever wondered who goes to a Broadway show and why?

BY FRANCIS LEWIS

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ONE OF A KIND Great design, like Frank Lloyd Wright’s landmark 60-year-old Guggenheim Museum building, never goes out of style.

BY TERRY TRUCCO

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UNDERGROUND ART MTA (Metropolitan Transportation Authority) Arts & Design commissions public art in subway stations throughout the five boroughs. Take a gander at this portfolio, then create one of your own.

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PARTING SHOT New York’s latest attraction promises to be its most thrilling.

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ON THE COVER: COLORFUL GLASS MOSAIC BY ARTIST XENOBIA BAILEY AT THE 34TH STREET–HUDSON YARDS SUBWAY STATION ©STEFANO POLITI MARKOVINA/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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NEW YORK G UE S T B O OK

ADVERTISING JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Pat O’Donnell MARKET MANAGERS

Vera Huang, 212.636.2759, v.huang@jgeco.com Kristina Larson, 917.421.9076, k.larson@jgeco.com Donald J. Post, 212.716.8571, d.post@jgeco.com Charna West, 212.636.2709, c.west@jgeco.com MARKETING DESIGNER Carrie Donahue MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Margaret Martin MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer McKee EDITOR Francis Lewis MARKETING EDITOR Farah Lopez CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jennifer Keller Vaz PHOTO EDITOR Vincent Hobbs ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR

Kiara Bouyea

MVP I MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Karen Fralick

Mickey Kibler Erik Lewis

PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER IMAGE & RETOUCH MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS Jamie Turner DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION

Scott Ferguson

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER – CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS Haines Wilkerson E-MAILS FOR ALL MVP EMPLOYEES: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRIS.COM

MVP I HOSPITALITY RELATIONS & DISTRIBUTION MANAGER – HOSPITALITY RELATIONS, DISTRIBUTION & EVENTS

Precious Ackah

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV

MVP NEW YORK CITY, EDITORIAL & SALES OFFICES 25 W. 45th St., Ste. 1203, New York, NY 10036 www.wheretraveler.com WhereTraveler® GuestBook is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com.

WhereTraveler® magazine and the WhereTraveler® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes WhereTraveler® magazine, WhereTraveler® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association.

WhereTraveler® GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas/Fort Worth, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Island of Hawai‘i, Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, Northern Arizona, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Washington D.C. ©2019 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein.

By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

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CAVIAR TO GO

FINE DINING

MICHELIN GUIDE MICHELIN 2014 - 2020

CAVIAR RUSSE

RESTAURANT - CAVIAR BOUTIQUE

... Here you will find contemporary dishes of surprising delicacy and precision, with a pleasing bias towards wonderful seafood and shellfish, such as scallops with ricotta gnudi, or delicious bluefin tuna with uni and asparagus. You get buzzed in at street level, which adds a bit of mystery to proceedings. Up the stairs and you’ll find yourself in a lavish little jewel box, with colorful murals on the wall, Murano chandeliers hanging from an ornate ceiling, and semi-circular booths. The only thing missing is James Bond’s nemesis drumming his fingers on the table in the corner. Excerpt from 2016 review.

538 Madison Avenue at East 54th Street New York, NY 10022 - Also visit us in Miami at the Four Seasons Tower.

Monday through Saturday, serving all day noon - 10 pm, Sunday noon - 4 pm. Inquire for Private Dining.

212 980 5908 - 1 800 NYCAVIAR - www.CaviarRusse.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

Always in Fashion in New York, page 28 Brian Scott Lipton is a native New Yorker whose first word was reportedly Bloomingdale’s.

His lifelong interest in fashion eventually led him to become managing editor of industry menswear publications DNR and MR and the author of numerous fashion articles for Forbes Magazine. Brian is bestknown for his role as editor in chief of TheaterMania.com and as a contributor to IN New York, The Wall Street Journal, New York Post and Cititour.com. His favorite word is cashmere.

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Meryl Pearlstein

Table for Two With a Side of Drama, page 46 Originally from Boston, Meryl Pearlstein is a Manhattan-based writer who focuses on luxury, travel, theater and food. She is a restaurant reviewer for Gayot and writes for WhereTraveler New York and IN New York, Splash Magazines, and Travel and Food Notes, among other publications. A sponge for everything New York City, Meryl can be found exploring the city’s five boroughs in search of what’s new and tempting, from under-theradar street food to fine dining.

Additionally, she is the founder of MDP Publicity, a boutique travel public relations firm.

Joni Sweet

Terry Trucco

Joni Sweet’s journalistic pursuits have taken her around the globe—trekking with mountain gorillas in Rwanda and soaking in hot springs in Japan. She has been published by National Geographic, Lonely Planet and Forbes, among other outlets.

When she’s not traveling, Sweet can be found seeking out the best Indian food in New York.

Terry Trucco grew up in Northern California and came to New York as a college student with a job at Time magazine. She has worked as a journalist in Tokyo and London, writing for the New York Times, Wall Street Journal and International Herald Tribune, among others. Since moving back to New York, she has written mainly on culture, design and travel for Travel & Leisure, House Beautiful and The Times. She is the founder of Overnight New York, an award-winning website featuring news and reviews of NYC hotels. Trucco was thrilled to revisit the Guggenheim from a historical perspective. A highlight was exploring the rotunda as Wright intended, from the top down. “No wonder people were blindsided by it in 1959. It still startles and amazes,” she says.

Taste of Home, page 38

One of a Kind, page 56

PHOTO: BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON, EVAN WARREN

Brian Scott Lipton

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515 MADISON AVENUE

1390 6TH AVENUE

225 LIBERTY STREET

156 BROADWAY

NEW YORK, NY 10022

NEW YORK, NY 10019

NEW YORK, NY 10281

BROOKLYN, NY 11211

212.751.9060

212.757.3167

212.897.2866

347.599.0565

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

New York is a city on the move.

Check out the brand-new sights that amaze and the venerable attractions that get better as they mature and evolve.

PHOTO: HUDSON YARDS REAL ESTATE DEVELOPMENT AND OTHER BUILDINGS ON THE WEST SIDE OF MANHATTAN, ©CLARENCE HOLMES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FIRST LOOK

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“New York is never going to be done, but it’s always going to be developing.”

MICHAEL BLOOMBERG, entrepreneur and three-term mayor of New York City (2002–2013)

Hudson Yards

Former Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s vision for the far West Side of Manhattan—turning a rail yard into a hub of commercial, residential and arts activity—is now a reality. The new neighborhood of mixed-use skyscrapers contains a high-end shopping mall, destination restaurants helmed by four-star chefs and a state-of-the-art arts center.

Btw 10th & 11th aves., btw W. 30th & W. 34th sts., 646.954.3100, www.hudsonyardsnewyork.com

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“Our expanded galleries reveal a new presentation of modern and contemporary art that brings together mediums across the collection— from painting to performance—and highlights work by a greater range of artists than ever before.”

GLENN D. LOWRY, Director of MoMA

Museum of Modern Art When MoMA, as everyone endearingly calls this institution, reopened on Oct. 21, 2019, after a building-wide expansion and revitalization, its legions of advocates let out a sigh of relief. True to its mission as a cutting-edge treasure house, MoMA has reinvented itself.

While crowd fave Vincent van Gogh’s “The Starry Night” looks better than ever, the new Blade Stair is a rule-defying addition: a monumental minimalist sculpture that structurally and metaphorically is as light as a feather.

11 W. 53rd St., 212.708.9400, www.moma.org

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PHOTO: INTERIOR VIEW OF THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, BLADE STAIR, IWAN BAAN, COURTESY MOMA

FIRST LOOK

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THE PRIDE OF BROADWAY

FEEL THE POWER

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Minskoff Theatre Broadway & 45th Street lionking.com

“What is amazing about [the High Line] is the different way [it gives] of looking at New York and experiencing New York.” DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, fashion designer

The Plinth

Simone Leigh’s monumental “Brick House,” on view through September 2020, is a 16-foot-tall bronze bust of a black woman and the inaugural High Line Plinth commission. Art installations change every 18 months on the Plinth, a space on the elevated High Line park and promenade devoted exclusively to contemporary art.

On the High Line at the Spur, 10th Ave. & W. 30th St., www.thehighline.org

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PHOTO: SIMONE LEIGH, “BRICK HOUSE,” 2019, A HIGH LINE PLINTH COMMISSION, TIMOTHY SCHENCK, COURTESY THE HIGH LINE

FIRST LOOK

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A N DR E W L L OY D W EBBER’S

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O MAJESTIC THEATRE | 247 West 44 th Street Telecharge.com | 212.239.6200 | phantombroadway.com

“The museum’s [150th] anniversary is an occasion to celebrate this extraordinary institution, and appreciate the vibrancy and astounding depth and scope of its collection, scholarship and programs.” MAX HOLLEIN, Director of the Met

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

It would take days, if not weeks to see everything that this encyclopedic museum has collected since its founding on April 13, 1870. Special exhibitions are planned for its 150th anniversary in 2020, but always on display and ever-popular with museumgoers is the Temple of Dendur (10 B.C.) in its custom-built gallery.

1000 Fifth Ave., 212.535.7710, www.metmuseum.org

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PHOTO: THE TEMPLE OF DENDUR, THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART/BROOKS WALKER

FIRST LOOK

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New Amsterdam Theatre, Broadway & 42nd Street • AladdinTheMusical.com

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THE HIT BROADWAY MUSICAL

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“We have built a home where established and emerging artists working in all disciplines can create new work in ways that we cannot even imagine.”

ALEX POOTS, Artistic Director and CEO of The Shed

The Shed

On April 15, 2019, The Shed—part stage, part art gallery—ushered in a new era of all-in-one arts centers. Its movable outer shell is covered in panels made of translucent Teflon-based material. When retracted, the shell reveals a plaza for outdoor programming; when deployed, the billowy shell encloses The McCourt, a theater.

The Bloomberg Building in Hudson Yards, 545 W. 30th St., 646.455.3494, www.theshed.org

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PHOTO: THE SHED UNDER CONSTRUCTION, AS SEEN FROM THE HIGH LINE, DECEMBER 2018, BRETT BEYER

FIRST LOOK

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Start your trip in NYC. End it in OZ.

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♦

WickedtheMusical.com

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GERSHWIN THEATRE, 222 W. 51st St.

“We are honored and proud that The Rooftop at Pier 17 has been recognized as the ‘Best New Concert Venue’ in the country [by the Pollstar Awards in 2018].”

SAUL SHERL, President of the New York Tri-State Region, The Howard Hughes Corporation

The Rooftop at Pier 17

Diana Ross, Sting, Ringo Starr, Billie Eilish—and Louis Tomlinson on June 16 and 17, 2020: In summer, The Rooftop hosts the crème de la crème of rock and pop performers in concert. But The Rooftop is a venue for all seasons. In winter, it morphs into Winterland Rink, NYC’s only open-air rooftop ice-skating facility.

South Street Seaport, 89 South St., www.pier17ny.com

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PHOTO: COURTESY THE HOWARD HUGHES CORPORATION

FIRST LOOK

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“A hit and a masterpiece!

JOYOUS, UPLIFTING AND PLENTY OF HUMOR.” COME TOGETHER AT

ED The Hit Musical BONA STHE Remarkable True Story

COME FROM AWAY Book, Music and Lyrics by Irene Sankoff and David Hein Directed by Christopher Ashley

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OFFICIAL AIRLINE

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“If you don’t live in NYC, [the Statue of Liberty] is the first stop on your family vacation, but if you live there, you only go if you have relatives visiting from out of town!”

MARISSA JARET WINOKUR, Tony Award-winning actress and native New Yorker

The Statue of Liberty Museum

Inside the garden pavilion, immersive and interactive exhibits detail the Statue of Liberty’s history, design and role as a symbol of freedom and opportunity. Among the artifacts on display is the statue’s original copper torch, which was held high from dedication day in 1886 until its removal and replacement 100 years later.

Liberty Island in New York Harbor, www.statueoflibertymuseum.org

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PHOTO: THE STATUE OF LIBERTY MUSEUM’S “INSPIRATION GALLERY” CONTAINING THE STATUE’S ORIGINAL TORCH AND A MODEL OF THE STATUE’S FACE, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

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ONE OF THE MOST REMARKABLE SHOWS IN MUSICAL THEATER HISTORY. –Peter Marks,

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@DearEvanHansen

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Music Box Theatre 239 W. 45th St. • DearEvanHansen.com •

“[Vessel] is going to be to New York City what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris.”

JEFF BLAU, CEO of Related Companies

Vessel

Is it art or the ultimate StairMaster? Vessel is both: a $200 million, 150-foot-tall sculpture comprising 154 interconnected flights of stairs, almost 2,500 steps (that are meant to be climbed) and 80 landings. Wear your comfiest sneakers for a sightseeing experience—and cardio workout—like no other.

Hudson Yards, btw 10th & 11th aves., btw W. 30th & W. 34th sts., 332.204.8500, www.hudsonyardsnewyork.com

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PHOTO: VESSEL, NICK STARICHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

FIRST LOOK

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ALWAYS IN FASHION IN NEW YORK Shopping is an adventure in the Big Apple: Discover a “new you” at these 11 stores.

PHOTO: NORDSTROM FALL/WINTER 2019 FASHIONS, GUS POWELL, NORDSTROM

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

No matter the season, one of the most exciting parts of any visit to New York is the chance to stop into the city’s unparalleled clothing stores, from Madison Avenue to Midtown, SoHo and beyond.

Every season is an exciting time to be a shopper (or browser) here, as the latest fashions are on display, dazzling us with their color, craftsmanship and creativity. Here are some of our favorite places that will allow you the opportunity to not just look like a New Yorker, but look spectacular wherever you are.

BERGDORF GOODMAN Located in one of NYC’s most ultra-elegant Beaux Arts buildings, this multifloor emporium for women’s fashion is a mustdo destination, even if you just want to gape at the always gorgeously decorated windows or simply take in its rarefied atmosphere. Most of the clothes and accessories on display are from such world-famous names as Gucci, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels, but the store also houses lesser-known if WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK

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FORTY FIVE TEN

180 The Store.

This minimalistlooking shop in TriBeCa for men’s and women’s clothes and accessories carries many lines from all over the globe that you can’t find elsewhere.

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The first New York outpost of the celebrated Dallas-based retailer is actually four mini-shops laid out over 16,000 square feet on the fifth floor of the Shops at Hudson Yards, with each one dedicated to a particular category of fashion and design.

Women can find a wide selection of up-to-the-minute looks from such celebrated names as Rodarte, Mark Cross, Erdem, Thom Browne and Jacquemus, while men can choose from a curated group of intriguing options by Acne Studios, Sacai, Rick Owens, Fumito Ganryu and Officine Générale. At Forty Five Ten, there’s always a 100 percent chance you’ll see something you can’t live without. | 20 Hudson Yards, 917.970.4510. www.fortyfiveten.com

JAY KOS The incredible menswear on display is just part of the attraction of visiting the designer’s eponymous boutique in NoLIta, since you’ll never know which celebrity might just pop in,

JOSEPH ABBOUD Long one of America’s most celebrated designers—he received the coveted Menswear Designer of the Year twice in a row from the Council of Fashion Designers of America—Abboud has created the ideal spot to show off his exquisitely tailored suits and sport coats (which can be custom-made, if you prefer), along with a wide selection of dress shirts, shoes and even his signature fragrance. The experience may feel European, but the clothing is all-American craftsmanship at its finest. | 424 Madison Ave., 212.872.1340. www.josephabboud.com

NORDSTROM True, the Seattle-based retailer has locations in many cities, but its year-old men’s flagship in Manhattan is on a whole new level (or multilevels to be exact). This 47,000-square-foot store not only carries apparel brands of all stripes—from Ted Baker to Canali to Calvin Klein—but also has special areas for Christian Louboutin shoes, Levi’s Authorized Vintage, and Nike sportswear and sneakers. Women, take note: Your very own Nordstrom flagship store is right next door.

GRAMP @ALEXANDRALYNNGRAMP & ALYCEN CASE; PAUL STUART CUSTOMLAB, COURTESY PAUL STUART; PAUL STUART MEN’S FASHIONS, ARNALDO ANAYA-LUCCA

Twenty years after it almost single-handedly transformed the Meatpacking District into a major tourist/shopping destination, Jeffrey remains a favorite haunt of visitors and locals alike, thanks in large part to its legendary friendly service and extensive selection of goods (for both genders) that lean heavily on designer names such as Prada and Saint Laurent.

Without question, Jeffrey is a name to remember when you’re seeking something special to wear. | 449 W. 14th St., 212.206.1272. www.jeffreyusa.com

INC., HAIR: LINH NGUYEN @LINHNGUYEN / @SEEMANAGEMENT, PRODUCER: KATHLEEN TIGHE @KATHLEEN.M.TIGHE, MODEL: DARIA ZVA @DARIAZVA / @MUSEMODELSNYC, FASHION ASSISTANT: ALEXANDRA LYNN

JEFFREY NEW YORK

This sprawling eight-floor showplace showcases some of the most fashion-forward looks for both men and women to be found anywhere in the Big Apple. Come by and check out the latest creations (and they are indeed creative) by such original thinkers as Raf Simons and Junya Watanabe; the latest products from must-have brands like streetwear giant Supreme; and the many lines of the groundbreaking Japanese label Comme des Garçons and its designer, Rei Kawakubo. Dover Street isn’t a market in the usual sense; it’s an education and a shopping experience. | 160 Lexington Ave., 646.837.7750. www.doverstreetmarket.com

BERGDORF GOODMAN, PHOTOGRAPHER: OLIVIA GRAHAM @THEORIGINALGANGSTA, STYLIST: CANNON @THECANNONMEDIAGROUP, MAKEUP: GEORGINA BILLINGTON @GEORGINABILLINGTON / @JUDYCASEY

DOVER STREET MARKET

MANAGEMENT, CREATIVE DIRECTION & STYLING: KRISTEN COLE, PRODUCTION: JORDAN JONES, MAKEUP: DINA GREGG, HAIR: JOHN RUGGIERO / THE WALL GROUP; THE DANES DARIA BALLGOWN AVAILABLE AT

from rock icon Stevie Nicks to “Moulin Rouge! The Musical” star Sahr Ngaujah. But the true star is always Kos’ magnificent creations, which feature explosions of color—this is not the place for “men in black”—and the use of truly high-end materials, including handcrafted leathers, vintage silk and more. It’s a standout shop for standout looks. | 293 Mott St., 212.319.2770. www.jaykos.com

PHOTOS: COME DES GARÇONS AT DOVER STREET MARKET, COURTESY ADRIAN WILSON; ACCESSORIES AT FORTY FIVE TEN, PHOTOGRAPHER: YELENA YEMCHUK, MODEL: KHADIJHA RED THUNDER / WOMEN

equally beautiful brands, such as The Danes. True, just about everything here boasts prices that if you have to ask, you possibly can’t afford it (much like its sister store Neiman Marcus in Hudson Yards). But those consumers with big budgets—or big dreams—will discover items of beauty that demand to be tried on, if not purchased. | 754 Fifth Ave., 212.753.7300. www.bergdorfgoodman.com

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE: COMME DES GARÇONS AT DOVER STREET MARKET; VINTAGE HERMÈS SCARF, TENNENBAUM JEWELERS VINTAGE EARRINGS AND DIOR SUNGLASSES AT FORTY FIVE TEN; THE DANES DARIA BALLGOWN, COMPRISING MORE THAN 200 LAYERS OF HANDSEWN SILK SATIN ORGANZA CUT ON THE BIAS, AVAILABLE AT BERGDORF GOODMAN; THE CUSTOMLAB AT PAUL STUART; PAUL STUART’S SINGLE-BREASTED WOOL OVERCOAT, OLIVE WOOL PLAID TWOBUTTON NOTCH JACKET, OLIVE WOOL PLAID TROUSERS, SLIM-FIT GREEN COTTON DRESS SHIRT AND PURPLE WOOL TIE.

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rience; and we could lounge around all day in the sleepwear and robes from its new “Made on Madison” line. | Madison Ave., at E. 45th St., 800.678.8278. www.paulstuart.com

180 THE STORE

Above, left: The new Nordstrom flagship store for women on W. 57th Street.

Above, right: Joseph Abboud’s Fall 2019 menswear collection struts the runaway.

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It can be disconcertingly easy to pass by this unusual TriBeCa shop, but stop in the name of fashion! Why? Because this minimalist-looking store carries many lines from all over the globe that you can’t find elsewhere, including Chimala, Album di Famiglia, Still By Hand and Ryan Roche. Here, you can find a beautiful array of bags and small leather goods from Rhode Island-based Lotuff, all of which will quickly be added to your must-buy list. | 180 Duane St., 212.226.5506. www.180thestore.com

10 CORSO COMO

PAUL STUART

VK NAGRANI

This Madison Avenue mainstay recently underwent a major renovation (including the addition of a women’s section), but its core commitment to classic styling, first-rate fabrics (love the cashmere socks!) and superb service have never changed. Creative director Ralph Auriemma has added magnificently modern styling and tempting textures to the company’s high-end Phineas Cole collection; its customLab provides a new take on the made-to-measure expe-

At this seemingly unassuming shop, the top-floor features a heavily curated collection of Nagrani’s beautifully designed men’s clothing and accessories, including high-quality socks and underwear, while appointments are usually required for the larger downstairs “clubhouse,” which displays Nagrani’s extraordinary suits, jackets, shirts, trousers and shoes that literally define the word luxury. | 87A E. Houston St., 646.476.6795. www.vknagrani.com

The South Street Seaport is home to the only American branch of the famed Milanese department store, a must for European and visiting fashionistas. While it can require some searching to find the perfect outfit, the hunt is worth it; no other store has such a brilliantly chosen selection of clothing for women and men by Marni, Alaïa, Balenciaga, Martin Margiela and more— not to mention its beautiful in-house line. Ciao bella, indeed. | 1 Fulton St., 212.265.9500. www.10corsocomo.nyc

PHOTOS: NORDSTROM NYC WOMEN’S FLAGSHIP RENDERING, COURTESY NORDSTROM; JOSEPH ABBOUD FALL 2019 COLLECTION, COURTESY JOSEPH ABBOUD

| Men: 235 W. 57th St., 212.843.5100. Women: 225 W. 57th St., 212.295.2000. www.nordstrom.com

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T S A L C O N O C I Y A EVERYD

NEW YORK CITY’S PREMIER SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT DESTINATION MORE THAN 60 SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS

Sponsored By

@theshopsatcolumbuscircle Broadway & 59th St. | New York City | Guest Services: 212.823.6300

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LOOK BOOK

Only on Madison Avenue

AARON BASHA

Sass beaded necklace with “good luck” gold bead and toggle with a light blue, white and black enamel eye set in 18-karat gold and surrounded by diamonds ($1,475).

Can be worn as a necklace or wraparound bracelet. Aaron Basha, 673 Madison Ave., 212.644.1970, aaronbasha.com

PINKO The Lafayette 148 elevated shawl is crafted from pure cashmere ($1,998). The fringe edges add a classic detail, while the patch pockets are made with mink and fox fur for the epitome of luxury. Lafayette 148 New York, 956 Madison Ave., 914.600.8776, lafayette148ny.com

Mini Love Bag in vintage-effect leather with a mixture of metal studs appliquéd ($550). The leather front-strap closure is finished with the iconic “love birds” metal buckle, and the interior is lined in microfiber with a leather wall pocket.

Pinko, 1058 Madison Ave., 347.378.9430, pinko.com LAFAYETTE 148 NEW YORK

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PHOTO: MADISON AVENUE, COURTESY MADISON AVENUE BUSINESS IMPROVEMENT DISTRICT

Madison Avenue is the largest and most storied luxury shopping destination in North America.

From world-renowned flagships to independent boutiques, elegance, style and service define Madison Avenue between 57th and 86th Streets.

MadisonAvenueBID.org

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

The Paige pointed toe flats in leopard printed haircalf with a beaded fringe ornament ($368).

The timeless silhouette with a stacked square heel and leather sole can be paired with almost anything. Made in Brazil. Frances Valentine, 793 Madison Ave., 646.618.2773, francesvalentine.com

FRANCES VALENTINE

“Cabeza Azul con Resina Roja,” a one-of-a-kind wood, resin and iron sculpture from Spanish artist Manolo Valdés.

The piece measures 40.2 in. x 53.9 in. x 9.8 in. ($330,000). Opera Gallery, 791 Madison Ave., 646.707.3299, operagallery.com

The Horizon ring with a row of pavé diamonds that “orbits” between two gold outer bands ($3,200). The central band of each ring is hand-set with micropavé diamonds. Available in 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold. De Beers, 716 Madison Ave., 212.906.0001, debeers.com

DE BEERS

MARC JACOBS

OPERA GALLERY

The compact camera bag features saffiano leather, a removable and adjustable strap and dual top-zip compartments ($295). Can be worn as a crossbody or clutch. Marc Jacobs, 655 Madison Ave., 212.832.3905, marcjacobs.com

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LOOK BOOK BOTTEGA VENETA

The Pouch in butter calf leather ($2,700) reflects Bottega Veneta’s heritage with a modern attitude. The soft oversize clutch has a magnetic frame enveloped in folds of leather to create a voluminous, rounded shape. The single compartment is lined in natural suede. Bottega Veneta, 225 Liberty St., #124, 212.271.2626, bottegaveneta.com

ZARIN FABRICS

METROPOLITAN FINE ARTS AND ANTIQUES The René Lalique Deux Figurines Clock (price upon request), circa 1926, features two female figures with a floral wreath etched in glass. Metropolitan Fine Arts and Antiques, 1409 Sixth Ave., 212.974.2584, metroantiques.com

Top roll: Lily Pad-Spa ($98.99/yard); front roll: Tropical Fish-Sea Side ($59/yard); back roll: ChenilleTurquoise ($35/yard). Zarin Fabrics, 69 Orchard St., 212.925.6112, zarinfabrics.com

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SINCE WHERETRAVELER GUESTBOOK IS AN ANNUAL PUBLICATION, THERE IS A POSSIBILITY THAT THE ITEMS SHOWN IN THE “LOOK BOOK” PAGES, WHILE AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE AT PRESS TIME, MAY BE OUT OF STOCK. THE PRODUCTS FEATURED, HOWEVER, PROVIDE A FINE REPRESENTATION OF THE OVERALL QUALITY OF THE STORES’ MERCHANDISE AND OF THE GALLERIES’ ARTWORK. ALL PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE. THE PRODUCTS FEATURED, HOWVEVER, PROVIDE A FINE REPRESENTATION OF THE OVERALL QUALITY OF THE STORES, MERCHANDISE, OF GALLERIES’ ARTWORK. ALL PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

DAVIDOFF OF GENEVA

Davidoff’s Winston Churchill Union Jack Humidor ($2,050).

Handcrafted in France, with an exotic Okoume wood interior and Davidoff’s patented self-regulating humidification system. Designed to properly care for your cigars. Capacity of up to 90 cigars. *Cigars not included. Davidoff of Geneva, 515 Madison Ave., 212.751.9060, davidoffgeneva.com

CAVIAR RUSSE

BLOOMINGDALE’S Adorned with the Italian house’s trademark Vara bow, this streamlined Salvatore Ferragamo shoulder bag ($1,250) is perfectly poised to carry your look from morning to midnight. Salvatore Ferragamo at Bloomingdale’s, E. 59th St. & Lexington Ave., 212.705.2000, bloomingdales.com

Caspian Sea Gold Osetra Caviar (starting at $295) Caviar Russe, 538 Madison Ave., 2nd fl., 212.980.5908, caviarrusse.com

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ADDRESS BOOK Aldea 31 W. 17th St. 212.675.7223 www.aldearestaurant.com Asian Taste 86 Halal Indonesian Fusion 8610 Whitney Ave. Elmhurst, Queens 718.779.8686 www.asiantaste86.com

There’s no place like home. Even the most seasoned traveler gets homesick.

So, where can you find the comfort foods of home in the Big Apple?

Awang Kitchen 8405 Queens Blvd.

Elmhurst, Queens 347.492.9264 www.awangkitchen nyc.com Banter 169 Sullivan St. No phone www.banternyc.com Bluestone Bowery Café 19 Kenmare St. 718.374.6858 www.bluestonelane.com Casa 72 Bedford St. 212.366.9410 www.casarestaurant.com Charley St 41 Kenmare St. 646.982.4951 www.charleyst.com Chinese Tuxedo 5 Doyers St. 646.895.9301 www.chinesetuxedo.com Cosme 35 E. 21st St. 212.913.9659 www.cosmenyc.com Estonian House 243 E. 34th St. 212.684.0336 www.estonianhouse newyork.com Fogo de Chão 40 W. 53rd St. 212.969.9980 www.fogodechao.com Good Thanks 131 Orchard St. No phone www.goodthanksnyc.com 38

BY JONI SWEET

To find out, we consulted some bona fide experts on homesickness—foreign diplomats. They spend years away from home, running the consulates in NYC. Like many travelers, these officials have learned that familiar flavors are often the fastest cure for homesickness. And lucky for them (and us!), this vibrant city has restaurants serving cuisines from every corner of the world.

GERMANY When German Consul General David Gill hankers after food from home, he heads to the Upper East Side’s Heidelberg, one of the oldest family-run German restaurants in the United States.

“It has a classic German atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve been transported to [a German] town’s oldest café with familiar sights, sounds and, most importantly, smells,” he says.

“It’s the perfect spot on a cold winter night when you need a bit of German gemütlichkeit [good cheer] or coziness.”

Another place that banishes homesickness for Gill is Zum Schneider in Alphabet City. “Zum Schneider has a year-round biergarten vibe, especially when a soccer game is on the big screen,” he says. “All of the waiters speak German. There’s no better way to feel at home than when you’re speaking your mother tongue and eating your favorite foods.”

AUSTRALIA Alastair J. M. Walton, Australian consul general, may not be able to find the open spaces and beaches that he misses in Australia here in New York, but he’s pinpointed a few places in the city to nosh on Down Under grub.

“You only have to visit NoLIta, which has been dubbed ‘Little

Australia,’ to get your Aussie fix,” he says. “It’s incredible seeing the likes of Two Hands, Charley St, Bluestone Bowery Café, Ruby’s Cafe, Gran Tivoli and Good Thanks taking over the area.” Nothing beats an Aussie breakfast, and for that, Walton heads to Banter in Greenwich Village.

“I also visit Chinese Tuxedo for its Australian-Asian fusion [cooking],” he says. “Lastly, we can’t forget about The Australian Bar and Restaurant in Midtown—the go-to for a parma [chicken Parmesan] or meat pie paired with live Australian sport.”

BRAZIL Barbecue is a big deal in Brazil, according to Marco Antonio Nakata, the country’s deputy consul general in New York.

Servers cut a staggering array of beef tableside, and diners can also hit the buffet for salads, sides and fixins.

For the most genuine Brazilian barbecue experience, Nakata makes a reservation at Fogo de Chão, across from the Museum of Modern Art. “When I’m there, I feel that I’m in a steak house in Brazil,” he says. “It has the right atmosphere and interior design.”

But when Nakata craves something lighter (say, Brazil’s beloved cheese bread snack, pão de queijo), he pops into Padoca, a Brazilian bakery on the Upper East Side. And when he’s looking for Brazilian home cooking (and the warm hospitality of his motherland), he chooses Casa in the West Village.

“Casa uses decorations from Brazil. The furniture, the color of the walls and everything reminds me of a traditional Brazilian home,” he says. Plus, the chef there prepares Brazil’s national dish, feijoada, a black bean stew that might just be the ultimate comfort food for Brazilian expats.

PHOTOS: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: © AFRICA STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©ZURIJETA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©MARCELO_KRELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Australian Bar and Restaurant 20 W. 38th St. 212.869.8601 www.theaustraliannyc.com

TASTE OF HOME

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Gran Tivoli 406 Broome St. 917.714.8832 www.grantivoli.com Heidelberg 1648 Second Ave. 212.628.2332 www.heidelberg-nyc.com Joey Bats Café 129 Allen St. 212.519.2289 www.joeybatscafe.com Jukai 237 E. 53rd St. 212.588.9788 www.jukainyc.com La Chula 137 E. 116th St. 646.590.3975 www.lachulanyc.com La Pulperia 1626 Second Ave. 212.933.0757 www.pulperianyc.com Padoca Bakery 359 E. 68th St. 212.300.4543 www.padocabakery.com Ruby’s Cafe 219 Mulberry St. 212.925.5755 www.rubyscafe.com Sakagura 211 E. 43rd St. 212.953.7253 www.sakagura.com Taberna 97 97 St. Marks Pl. 212.477.5600 www.taberna97.com Taco Mix 234 E. 116th St. 212.289.2963 www.tacomixnewyork.com Two Hands 164 Mott St. No phone www.twohandsnyc.com Upi Jaya 76-04 Woodside Ave. Elmhurst, Queens 718.458.1807 No website Zum Schneider 107 Ave. C 212.598.1098 nyc.zumschneider.com 40

INDONESIA Most Indonesian immigrants to New York have made Queens their home, which is exactly why Annisa Tyas Purwanti, Indonesia’s consul for consular affairs, heads to this diverse borough when she yearns for the country’s spicy fried foods.

“We’re a nation of foodies, and food is the lifeblood of every social gathering or life event,” she says. “Don’t be surprised that each Indonesian has their own strongly championed favorite dish or vendor.” This Indonesian’s favorites include Awang Kitchen, Asian Taste 86 Halal Indonesian Fusion and Upi Jaya. “From Awang Kitchen my go to-is always the crispy fried duck or chicken, with green chili sambal. It’s Indonesianstyle fried chicken, so it’s been marinated and steamed with spices and then fried,” says Purwanti.

“From Asian Taste 86, I love the grilled fish and the steamed fish dumplings and veggies with peanut sauce,” she continues.

“And from Upi Jaya, [I get] Indonesia’s most iconic dishes, beef rendang and saté padang.”

JAPAN Sushi, tempura, ramen and even okonomiyaki—Japanese foods are everywhere in New York. So, which spots serve authentic Japanese cuisine?

“Sakagura and Jukai,” says Yusuke Mizoroki, consul of the economic division at the Consulate General of Japan, referring to two restaurants in Midtown East. “I find these restaurants are really cozy [and] a good way to feel Japan itself.”

He typically orders seafood dishes and washes them down with complementary sake when he’s feeling homesick. But it’s not just the cuisine that makes him feel at home—it’s the hospitality, especially the ritual of the oshibori [wet towel] offered to diners to clean their hands before the meal.

ESTONIA Estonian cuisine is rooted in its famous black rye bread. Known as leib, the hearty bread is served at most meals with cultured butter. The simplicity of the crispy crust and fermented flavor is deeply satisfying.

When Kairi Künka, Estonian consul general, longs for leib (or home in general), she heads to Estonian House, a cultural center with a bar and restaurant in Murray Hill. “First and foremost, it’s the people [at Estonian House who] give you a

taste of home. [But] it also provides the most popular staples of Estonian cuisine,” she says.

In December, Künka looks forward to trying the holiday specialties at the restaurant. “The Christmas menu with sauerkraut, blood sausage and potatoes is a family favorite,” she adds.

PORTUGAL When Portuguese Consul General Maria de Fátima Mendes, a self-proclaimed “sweet tooth,” longs for a pastel de nata, a traditional Portuguese egg custard tart, in New York, she turns to Joey Bats Café on Allen Street. “The pastel de nata is Joe’s mother’s recipe, and it’s delicious and crusty,” she says.

But when the diplomat finds herself missing the savory side of Portuguese cuisine, she’s found a few restaurants in New York with top-notch menus. “For dinner, Aldea by Chef George Mendes creates haute cuisine from original Portuguese recipes, with an innovative approach,” she says of the upscale restaurant that has earned a Michelin star for traditional dishes like arroz de pato (rice with duck) and shrimp with corn porridge.

Mendes also recommends Taberna 97 for its Portuguesestyle tapas, such as smoked firewater-grilled sausage, jumbo shrimp sautéed with garlic and white wine, and cod fritters.

MEXICO In the six years Carlos Gerardo Izzo, Mexican consul for public affairs, has been posted in New York City, he’s had a chance to try a lot of the city’s Mexican restaurants.

“The first thing I think of when I’m homesick is tacos. So I go to Taco Mix in East Harlem. It’s really rustic, and it has tacos al pastor, made like a gyro,” he says. “I also like La Chula, in the heart of Spanish Harlem, where the trays are made of tin.”

When he wants a more elaborate Mexican meal, Cosme is the restaurant of choice. The sleek spot in the Flatiron District earned the highest ranking among U.S. restaurants on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 list.

And finally, when he wants a fun, unfussy place to sip margaritas and crunch on chips and guac after a day at the consulate, he grabs a seat at the bar at La Pulperia, a Latin fusion restaurant on the Upper East Side. “Pulperia has the best margaritas and sangria,” he says. “But it’s not the food that reminds me most of Mexico—it’s the warmth of the Mexican people working there. Food is just the excuse.”

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

DINE IN STYLE There is a reason why New York City has a reputation for being the foodie capital of the world. Our restaurants range from the most casual of delis to the most formidable of steak houses, with lots of variety in between. Here is just a small sampling of what you can find in this town when hunger—and the dinner hour—strike.

STRIP HOUSE Experience charred cuts perfectly paired with decadent sides and served in siren-red interiors, where old-world glamour meets modern style and sophistication. Named one of “New York’s Best Steak Restaurants” by Zagat and awarded four stars by Forbes, the namesake cut isn’t the only thing to marvel at. Whether you are coming for the perfect after-work cocktail or to experience our late-night tableside service, you are guaranteed not to be disappointed.

13 E. 12th St., 212.328.0000; 15 W. 44th St., 212.336.5454, striphouse.com

DOS CAMINOS

Join the fiesta at one of New York City’s original Mexican restaurants! Dos Caminos features an expanded menu of authentic Mexican dishes with a modern twist, including fresh guac and ceviche, as well as an extensive selection of premium tequilas, killer margs and innovative cocktails. With multiple locations in New York City, experience the multi-regional modern cuisine for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, or enjoy weekday happy hour.

Times Square, Meatpacking, Park Ave South, Soho doscaminos.com

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BILL’S BAR & BURGER Bill’s Bar & Burger is your one-stop shop for classic American fare. Every burger, shake and fry, in dozens of varieties, is made fresh daily.

With two locations in New York City, Bill’s provides a welcoming space for guests to enjoy sports games, great food and an extensive list of local and craft beers.

16 W. 51st St., at Fifth Ave., 212.705.8510, 85 West St., 212.894.3800, billsbarandburger.com

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Mastro’s Steakhouse is recognized for its combination of highly acclaimed cuisine and live entertainment in an elegant yet energetic atmosphere. Featuring 15 different steaks, chops and an array of fresh seafood selections, Mastro’s is committed to delivering an unforgettable dining experience every time.

1285 Sixth Ave., at W. 52nd St., 212.459.1222, mastosrestaurants.com

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

At Morton’s every guest is treated like a VIP. Enjoy USDA prime aged beef and fresh seafood.

With two locations near New York City’s most exciting attractions, our private boardrooms are ideal for any event, while the bar is a perfect gathering spot during Power Hour for specially priced drinks and bar bites.

551 Fifth Ave., 212.972.3315 136 Washington St., 212.608.0171, mortons.com

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DINE IN STYLE

Experience The Shops at Columbus Circle Broadway & 59th St., Guest Services: 212.823.6300, theshopsatcolumbuscircle.com

BAR MASA/MASA In 2004, legendary chef Masa Takayama opened his renowned Michelin three-star restaurant, Masa, to international acclaim. Adjacent to Masa, Bar Masa offers Chef Masa’s take on inventive Japanese cuisine in a serene and approachable atmosphere. Enjoy an extensive menu of fresh sashimi and sushi, grilled and fried dishes, as well as a refreshing list of elegant cocktails, sake and wine.

Bar Masa, 4th Fl., 212.832.9800, barmasanyc.com; Masa, 4th Fl., 212.823.9800, masanyc.com

BLUEBIRD LONDON NYC Bluebird London NYC is an oasis of glamour and style in the heart of Manhattan. Named after the hugely successful Bluebird Chelsea in London’s King’s Road and designed by the esteemed architects of Cetra Ruddy, Bluebird London NYC is a valuable addition to the New York social scene. Bluebird London NYC boasts a vibrant bar, gallery, café and private dining room overlooking the ever-changing seasonal backdrop of Central Park.

Bluebird London NYC, 3rd Fl., 347.682.2100, bluebirdlondon.nyc

ASCENT LOUNGE Ascent Lounge presents an incomparable cocktail lounge experience with stunning city views overlooking Columbus Circle and Central Park.

Experience elegance during early evening cocktails, late night soirées, elaborate private events and VIP premieres. The venue offers exceptional service and a menu of premium cocktails, wine and spirits, paired with gourmet small plates, in a sophisticated and inviting atmosphere designed

by Jeffrey Beers.

Ascent Lounge, 4th Fl., 212.823.9770, ascentloungenyc.com/theshopsatcolumbuscircle

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CENTER BAR/PORTER HOUSE BAR AND GRILL Center Bar offers sophisticated, modern American cuisine along with dramatic views of Central Park. For a more formal dining experience, visit Porter House Bar and Grill for prime steak and contemporary seafood dishes.

Center Bar, 4th fl., 212.823.9482, centerbarnyc.com; Porter House Bar and Grill, 4th fl., 212.823.9500, porterhousenyc.com

PER SE/BOUCHON BAKERY

Chef Thomas Keller is renowned for his culinary skills and his exceptionally high standards. Per Se is his three-star Michelin restaurant, featuring a daily nine-course tasting menu using classic French techniques. Bouchon Bakery is inspired by the style of classic French boulangeries, featuring a wide selection of artisanal breads and classic desserts.

Per Se, 4th fl., 212.823.9335; Bouchon Bakery, 3rd Fl., 212.823.9366, thomaskeller.com

BANG BAR/MOMOFUKU NOODLE BAR Bang Bar is a to-go restaurant from Momofuku Chef & Founder David Chang. Bang Bar is built around a vertical spit, and offers a rotating selection of roasted meats and bowls, all with bang flatbread. Momofuku Noodle Bar features a roster of noodles, housemade steamed breads, and daily dishes. At the bar, enjoy a full selection of beer, wine, sake, and cocktails.

Bang Bar, 3rd fl., 646.918.8752; Momofuku Noodle Bar, 3rd fl., noodlebar-ny.momofuku.com WHERET RAV EL ER ÂŽ G UEST B OOK

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TABLE FOR TWO WITH A SIDE OF DRAMA Restaurants designed by Tony Award winner David Rockwell have the recipe for delicous entertainment.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

BY MERYL PEARLSTEIN

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Opposite page: The 24-arm Quan Yin statue greets diners at TAO Downtown.

This page: The ash-wood sculpture carved by John Houshmand swirls above the lounge at Nobu Downtown.

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ence.” In Rockwell’s vision, theatergoers are transported to a world of fantasy from curtain to curtain, and from scene to scene. Similarly, diners enjoy “acts,” with the plot “choreographed as a promenade through spaces” and cuisine paced into a rhythm of courses.

Like some plays, some restaurants can be construed as revivals. The feeling when you dine at the redo of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Cafe is “familiar but fresh,” according to General Manager Chris Nelson. Designed by Rockwell, the “new” USC returns for an encore after a multiyear hiatus, incorporating elements of the past but adding new spins. USC’s balcony, with its choice “opera box” seating, recalls the original café as does a portion of the upstairs bar. Wainscoting from the previous “production” has been refreshed in a richer tone, and familiar artwork graces the walls. Like a theatrical revival paying homage to the original piece, the restaurant feels comfortable and current at the same time.

Then there are shows and restaurant designs that stop you cold with their breakthrough quality, charting new territory that wows from the start whether they are “revivals” or totally new productions.

Manhattan’s TAO “part two” is such a restaurant. Taking

Above, left: Avra Madison looks to an open-air villa in Greece for its design inspiration. Above, right: Legasea boasts a staircase made for grand entrances and even grander exits.

PHOTOS: AVRA MADISON AND LEGASEA, WARREN JAGGER

No review of a Broadway play or musical is complete without a description of the staging, sets, costumes, lighting, colors and overall tone. Design contributes significantly to the theatrical experience. With New York City restaurants, design plays a similarly important role. The feel and look of the room, whether overt or subtle, can markedly enhance the dining experience and contribute to the enjoyment and taste of a meal.

The revival of “She Loves Me” won David Rockwell the 2016 Tony Award for Best Scenic Design of a Musical for the “jewel-box” perfumery that gracefully transitioned into a restaurant, an apartment and a hospital room. Thanks to Rockwell’s avowed “emphasis on arrival, procession, lighting and the all-encompassing power of a live theatrical experience,” dining in one of the New York restaurants designed by him can have the same immersive, transformative quality as watching one of his 27 (and counting) Broadway shows.

In stage and restaurant productions, design plays a leading role with storytelling at the heart of each. States Rockwell, “To some extent, both theater and hospitality are centered on scenography and storytelling. They also share the intention to communicate ideas through an experiW H E R E T R AVELE R ® GU E STBO O K

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PHOTO: DAVID ROCKWELL’S SET DESIGN FOR “SHE LOVES ME,” COURTESY ROCKWELL GROUP

advantage of its multilevel space in the Maritime Hotel, TAO Downtown plays to its audience with even more drama than the Midtown original. Enter through massive doors studded with lion door knockers, and you’ll encounter a long, vaulted corridor leading to a giant reclining Buddha overlooking a staircase that conjures up “Sunset Boulevard” or “Hello, Dolly!”

“We looked at how stairs add drama to the audience’s arrival at a performance venue,” notes Rockwell, “and we wanted to mark and celebrate the entry here.” At TAO, Rockwell gives the stairs two additional roles: They’re the location of the restaurant’s premier seating and a theatrically lit line to the 24-arm Quan Yin statue awaiting divalike adoration at the back of the room.

Successful design also takes into account the culinary orientation of the restaurant. At TAO, food presentations are often as dramatic as the setting. Take, for example, the larger-than-life fortune cookie filled with chocolate and white mousse and adorned with exotic, diced dragon fruit and rambutan. The dessert’s provocative double entendre

fortunes are the culinary equivalents of characters with dual parts.

Also utilizing the device of a Broadway-like staircase but this time heading skyward, Legasea is a buzzy brasserie on the second floor of the Moxy Times Square hotel. Here Rockwell’s nautical world of tiles, lighting and furnishings creates a fun, maritime feel and an immersive “set” for seafood-focused dining. Scattered theatrical cues enhance the experience with lighting shaped like buoys, rope designs on the ceiling and backdrops decorated with fish. A sidewalklevel sign invites you upstairs with the bright lights and neon of a Broadway marquee. Chef Jason Hall describes the Legasea experience this way: “It’s important that the food, menu and restaurant design all flow together. We have a lot of cool moments depending on where you sit; the bar in the front is like the first act, a comfortable booth in back is the main show. The menu is like that, too, with the appetizer, entrée and dessert sequence leading to the final curtain.”

Nobu Downtown is a remake of sorts of Nobu’s nowclosed TriBeCa eatery. Rockwell’s goal was to reprise

David Rockwell won a 2016 Tony Award for the “jewel-box” perfumery that gracefully transitioned into a restaurant, an apartment and a hospital room in the revival of “She Loves Me.”

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Restaurateur Danny Meyer’s Union Square Cafe attracts SRO crowds while earning rave reviews for its cuisine and ambience.

Nobu’s original “exploration of materiality” and cultures within its new, larger neoclassical home in the Financial District. Hovering over the bar and lounge, a sumi-e ink swirl sculpture points downstairs to the main dining room, where design elements honor the past but give birth to a new and exciting space. Signature ash trees inspire the supports for an undulating wood canopy fashioned kirigami style. Two walls of ceramic sake carafes create an intimate tasting room, a set within a set.

If not as overtly dramatic as TAO or Nobu, Avra Madison gives you a first-class dining ticket to the Mediterranean.

Using props like real lemon trees, a seafood and vegetable market mini-set, and an open staircase linking the airy upstairs with a sexy downstairs space, the sequel to the popular Midtown estiatorio is theater on a lighter scale.

While the “melodies” may seem familiar, the fresh whitewashed palette informs Avra Madison’s updated “script” for food and service.

Looking for something more intimate but still with a touch of drama? Theatrical dining design doesn’t have to be bold or showy like that of Nobu or TAO, nor does it need to be derivative à la Union Square Cafe or Avra Madison. The Library at the Public Theater, helmed by chefs Andrew Carmellini and John Ramirez and also designed by Rockwell, is a cozy boîte that gives a textured Off-Broadway feel to an unexpected space and a culinary destination for those “in the know.”

Although there are several awards given for restaurant design (or hospitality design)—including those bestowed by the prestigious James Beard Foundation—there really should be a specific award for theater-influenced dining akin to the Tony awards given for Broadway sets and lighting. We can single out restaurants where theatricality is every bit as important as the chef ’s food and shower them with the accolades they deliciously deserve. David Rockwell would be my first nominee.

And, now, Mr. Rockwell, we’re ready for our dinner.

ROLODEX Avra Madison 14 E. 60th St. 212.937.0100 www.avrany.com Legasea 485 Seventh Ave. 212.268.1888 www.moxyhotels.marriott.com

Nobu Downtown 195 Broadway 212.219.0500 www.noburestaurants.com TAO Downtown 92 Ninth Ave. 212.888.2724 www.taodowntown.com Union Square Cafe 101 E. 19th St. 212.243.4020 www.unionsquarecafe.com

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PHOTO: UNION SQUARE CAFE, EMILY ANDREWS

The Library 425 Lafayette St. 212.539.8777 www.publictheater.org

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BROADWAY CENSUS & SENSIBILITY Playgoers are a diverse bunch.

PHOTO, THIS PAGE: AMRA-FAYE WRIGHT AS VELMA KELLY WITH THE CAST OF “CHICAGO,” ©2012 JEREMY DANIEL

PHOTO, OPPOSITE PAGE: THE DRESS REHEARSAL OF “HANNIBAL” IN “THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA,” JOAN MARCUS.

BY FRANCIS LEWIS

Opposite page: For sheer spectacle, “The Phantom of the Opera” has few equals. This page: Audiences love “Chicago”—and all that jazz.

Oscar Hammerstein II had a way with words. In 1953, the lyricist collaborated with composer Richard Rodgers on “Me and Juliet,” a big Broadway musical about (what else but?) a big Broadway musical. In it, Hammerstein described a theater audience as ”a big black giant who looks and listens with thousands of eyes and ears … and ev’ry night the mixture’s diff’rent, altho’ it may look the same.”

Ponder Hammerstein’s words the next time you take your seat in one of Broadway’s 41 theaters. Just who is the person sitting next to you, in front of and behind you? Come to think of it, who are you?

“The trend is clear, Broadway has never been more appealing to so many different people ranging from kids to grand-

parents and everyone in between,” says Charlotte St. Martin, president of The Broadway League. The reasons are indisputable, St. Martin continues: “The substantial growth in attendance clearly reflects the large variety of offerings including long-running shows, new hit productions and stories relevant to our society today. This coupled with the fact that over 50% of tickets are priced below $101, the industry is achieving its goal of being more accessible to everyone.”

Every year, The Broadway League publishes a demographics report of the Broadway audience. The most recent breaks down the 2017–2018 season, and the results are fascinating.

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Not surprisingly, audiences surveyed were educated, with 81% having completed college. To fuel their brain cells, Harper Lee’s “To Kill a Mockingbird,” voted the best-loved novel in the United States and a staple of syllabi from sea to shining sea, has been adapted for the stage by Aaron Sorkin and is now officially the highest-grossing American play in Broadway history. Classics majors will want to venture to “Hadestown,” an imaginative retelling of Greek mythology and the Tony Awardwinning Best Musical of 2019.

Twenty-odd years ago, the first “Harry Potter” book turned a generation of kids on to reading. “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child,” the play, is having a similar effect: It’s turning the young on to live theater. A record 2.1 million children and teens under 18 saw a Broadway show in 2017–2018. These are the audiences of the future, and Broadway knows how to nurture them. For a child’s first show, look no further than Disney’s “The Lion King,” “Aladdin” and “Frozen.” For high schoolers, a Golden Age has arrived. All the pertinent issues confronting them in life—social media, angst, loneliness, bullying and sexuality—are explored entertainingly and compassionately in “Dear Evan Hansen.”

With a Broadway show for just about every demographic, there is no better time than now to add your eyes and ears to Hammerstein’s “big black giant.”

Above, left: Now the fifth longest-running show in Broadway history, “Wicked” continues to defy gravity. Above, right, “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child” casts an undeniable spell over young theatergoers.

PHOTOS: KARA LINDSAY AND RACHEL TUCKER IN “WICKED,” JOAN MARCUS; BUBBA WEILER AND NICHOLAS PODANY IN “HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD,” MATTHEW MURPHY

like you: visitors to the city. Of these, 48% came from the United States (excluding NYC and its suburbs) and 15% from abroad.

What might an out-of-towner choose to see? Something grand and emotionally engaging. Something romantic.

Something that epitomizes the glitz and glamour of the Broadway experience. Something like “The Phantom of the Opera,” which enters its mind-boggling 33rd year on the Great White Way in January 2020. On a smaller scale, but no less universally appealing and satisfying, “Come From Away,” which recounts the immediate aftermath of 9/11, is a keeper. For visitors whose native tongue is not English, the razzle-dazzle of “Chicago” has no language barrier, while “Wicked,” another long-running crowd-pleaser, invests its gripping story with showstopping songs that rattle the rafters.

With an average age of 40.6, audiences skewed 65 percent female that season. With a strong female protagonist triumphing over adversity at its heart, it’s not hard to see why a current biographical show like “Tina: The Tina Turner Musical” strikes a chord in the #MeToo, Time’s Up era. Turner overcame obstacles, including an abusive husband, to reach the top of her male-dominated profession. She is definitely not the same person at the end of her show as she is at curtain-up. And that kind of journey resonates with female audiences.

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BY TERRY TRUCCO

You could say 1959 was an eventful year. Alaska and Hawaii joined the union as newly minted states. NASA announced its first team of astronauts. And on Oct. 21, the spiraling concrete building Frank Lloyd Wright designed for the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum opened to the public.

As visitors in furs and hats flocked through the doors, the Guggenheim was adjusting to its instant status as a lightning rod for controversy. After all, not a museum in the world—or building, for that matter—looked remotely like the imposing alien sculpture Wright planted on Fifth Avenue. The reactions of shock and puzzlement were immediate, as were nicknames like the Inverted Cupcake, the Washing Machine and, to paraphrase the New York Mirror, the Joyous Monstrosity.

The art world railed at the rotunda’s unorthodox galleries with gently sloping walls, individual bays, terrazzo ramps and not a right angle in sight. “A war between architecture and painting in which both come out sadly maimed,” opined New York Times art critic John Canaday,

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And the experience of essaying six spiraling ramps with a three-degree slope? Like “slither[ing] up the ramp, one hip higher than the other,” to quote a disgruntled newspaper reporter.

Yet no less an authority than architect Philip Johnson proclaimed the museum to be “Mr. Wright’s greatest building. New York’s greatest building.”

And if attendance was a gauge, Wright’s singular sensation was reeling in crowds. A 1960 Gallup poll found that 53 percent of museumgoers came for the architecture and the art, 38 percent for the architecture alone and just 5 percent for the art, a disservice to the Guggenheim’s fine collection but a hearty endorsement of the legendary architect’s final masterstroke. Wright died at the age of 91, six months before the museum opened.

As befits “an explosion on Fifth Avenue,” as The New York Times once described it, the Guggenheim did not have an easy birth. It began in 1943 with a letter from Hilla Rebay, art adviser to Solomon Guggenheim, asking Wright if he would build “a

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, 1959, ROBERT E. MATES, ©THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK

Frank Lloyd Wright’s revolutionary Guggenheim Museum building turns 60.

PHOTO, OPPOSITE PAGE: THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, DAVID HEALD, ©THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK. PHOTO, THIS PAGE, OPENING DAY OF THE SOLOMON R.

ONE OF A KIND

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OPENING DAY OF THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, 1959, ROBERT E. MATES, ©THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK

On its opening day, Oct. 21, 1959, the Frank Lloyd Wrightdesigned Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum welcomed a crowd of 16,000 art lovers.

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MUSEUM, NEW YORK, DAVID HEALD, ©THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK

PHOTO, OPPOSITE PAGE: THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, DAVID HEALD, ©THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK. PHOTO, THIS PAGE: THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM

Sunlight pours through the museum’s skylight, or “oculus”— 58 feet across and 96 feet above the floor— in keeping with Frank Lloyd Wright’s belief that art is best viewed in natural light.

temple of the spirit” to facilitate a new way of looking at nonobjective painting. Wright pounced. He had never designed an art museum. Stranger still, he had never received a commission for a building in Manhattan, perhaps because his architectural style favoring organic shapes, nature settings and low, horizontal buildings was at odds with the blunt International Style towers that dominated the New York City skyline.

Over the next 16 years, Wright’s museum went through at least six sets of plans, delays forced by war and financial constraints, skirmishes with the city over building codes and difficulties in choosing a site (properties in Midtown Manhattan and Riverdale in the Bronx lost out to a quiet Upper East Side block, home to a girl’s school and residential buildings, across from Central Park). The design also met with objections, notably from a group of 21 prominent artists, including Milton Avery, Willem de Kooning, Philip Guston and Robert Motherwell, who claimed Wright’s nautilusshaped building was inhospitable to their art.

No matter. Construction commenced in 1956, treating onlookers to the startling sight of workers laboring atop a steadily growing circle of wood and steel. As one worker explained to The New Yorker, “The way I figure it is that this is the screwiest project I ever got tied up in. The whole joint goes round and round and round and where it comes out nobody knows.” Wright, ever the astute promoter, requested that construction be documented, resulting in a collection of breathtaking black-and-white photographs.

Which brings us back to 1959. Wright did not get every feature he wanted for his building, including a glass elevator and a red marble facade. But as architectural historian Joseph M. Siry writes in “The Guggenheim, Frank Lloyd Wright and the Making of the Modern Museum,” Wright realized “the essential idea of spatial and structural continuity in the main gallery’s ‘grand ramp,’ as he called it.” He transformed reinforced concrete, a homely material used primarily at the time for parking garages and automobile buildings, into an WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK

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transformed reinforced concrete, a homely material used primarily at the time for parking garages and automobile buildings, into an element of beauty.

element of beauty and a means to a “sculpturally free architecture,” to quote Siry. And he saw writ large his concept for an inverted ziggurat, a favorite ancient shape he flipped onto its head to create the illusion of upward growth and “pure optimism,” as the architect put it.

Wright also invented a structure that changed the way museumgoers experience art. With the Guggenheim’s soaring atrium crowned by a skylight and vista points showcasing art across the building as well as directly in front of you, he devised a flexible space brimming with possibilities for unimagined encounters and undreamed of exhibitions. It was as if he’d received advance word that Minimalism and Post-Minimalism were on the way, shifting art from isolated modernist objects to works designed to engage with their surroundings. His socially oriented setting offered a preview of the lively gathering places museums would become.

It’s not entirely clear when the Guggenheim morphed from a “joyous monstrosity” into a timeless (and beloved)

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modern icon, as essential to New York as the Empire State Building and the Brooklyn Bridge. In his book “Wright and New York: The Making of America’s Architect,” Anthony Alofsin traces the shift to the 1980s, when postmodernism, “with its yearning for comfort, tradition and even ornament,” muscled past the International Style, an esthetic Wright rejected as vapid, nonfunctional and sterile.

What is clear is that the Guggenheim, a recent addition to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, is looking good at 60. If you visit, treat yourself to seeing it as Wright intended back when he expected no more than 350 visitors at once.

Take the snug red elevator or the zigzagging stairs to the top and walk down. Gaze up at the skylight, revel in the cantilevered ramps, admire the art and glory in the vast, column-free space. Maybe you’ll feel a bit dizzy as you descend. Maybe you’ll just get a thrill. And why not? You’re standing in the most important piece of art in the museum’s collection, as a former Guggenheim chairman of the board wisely observed.

Likened to a corkscrew, an inverted oatmeal dish and a hot cross bun by naysayers upon its opening, the cylindrical structure on Fifth Avenue cost $3 million to build, a not insignificant sum in 1959.

PHOTO: THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, DAVID HEALD, ©THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK

Architect Frank Lloyd Wright

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ROY LICHTENSTEIN, NYCT TIMES SQUARE–42ND STREET STATION. COMMISSIONED BY METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY ARTS & DESIGN. PHOTO: ROB WILSON

PHOTO, OPPOSITE PAGE: SARAH SZE, “BLUEPRINT FOR A LANDSCAPE,” METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY. PHOTO, THIS PAGE, ROY LICHTENSTEIN, “TIMES SQUARE MURAL,” 2002, ©ESTATE OF

UNDERGROUND ART Next time you go from Point A to Point B via subway, pause and look around.

NYC’s Metropolitan Transportation Authority has filled stations with great art.

Here’s a sampling of what you can see—and post on Instagram.

Opposite page: Sarah Sze’s “Blueprint for a Landscape,” 96th Street stop on the Second Avenue (Q) Line.

This page: Roy Lichtenstein’s “Times Square Mural,” centerpiece of the Times Square–42nd Street transit hub in Midtown Manhattan serving the N, Q, R, S, W, 1, 2, 3 and 7 lines.

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Above: One of Vic Muniz’s “Perfect Strangers” jumps for joy at the 72nd Street stop on the Second Avenue Line.

Right: Leo Villareal’s honeycomb LED ceiling sculpture, “Hive (Bleecker St.),” sheds light on the Bleecker Street stop on the 6, D and F lines.

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NYCGB_191100_09_Photo_Essay.indd 65 PHOTOS, THIS PAGE: JEAN SHIN, “ELEVATED,” METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY; GEORGE BATES, “SYMPHONIC CONVERGENCE,” MTA ARTS & DESIGN/ROB WILSON

PHOTOS, OPPOSITE PAGE: VIK MUNIZ, “PERFECT STRANGERS,” METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY; LEO VILLAREAL, “HIVE (BLEECKER ST.),” MTA ARTS FOR TRANSIT AND URBAN DESIGN/ROB WILSON.

Left: Three panels from Jean Shin’s “Elevated” recall subways of old, 63rd Street stop on the Q Line. Below: George Bates’ “Symphonic Convergence,” made of glass blocks, brightens the Beach/36 Street stop on the A Line.

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PHOTOS: TOM OTTERNESS, “LIFE UNDERGROUND,” METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY; WILLIAM WEGMAN, “STATIONARY FIGURES,” PATRICK J. CASHIN/METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY

Right: Whimsical bronze sculptures populate artist Tom Otterness’ “Life Underground,” 14th Street/Eighth Avenue stop on the A, C, E and L lines.

Below: Eleven glass mosaic portraits by William Wegman delight straphangers, 23rd Street stop on the F Line.

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PHOTOS: CHUCK CLOSE, “SUBWAY PORTRAITS,” METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY (2)

Above and right: Among Chuck Close’s 12 large-scale, photo-based mosaic “Subway Portraits” is this one of artist Kara Walker, 86th Street stop on the Second Avenue (Q) Line.

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ENTERTAINMENT/ ATTRACTIONS Aladdin—Broadway Musical..................... 19 Chicago—Broadway Musical....................55 Come From Away—Broadway Musical..23 Dear Evan Hansen—Broadway Musical..25 Frozen—Broadway Musical.........................3 The Lion King—Broadway Musical.......... 15 The Phantom of the Opera— Broadway Musical.................................. 17 Top of the Rock Observation Deck at Rockefeller Center®— Attraction............... Inside Front Cover, 1 Wicked—Broadway Musical..................... 21

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PHOTO: ©ANDRE BENZ/UNSPLASH

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PHOTO: EDGE, COURTESY RELATED–OXFORD

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