Where Magazine New Orleans February 2024

NEW ORLEANS FEB 2024

Parades Aplenty Romantic Dining Roaming Algiers Point

GET CREATIVE THE ART OF CARNIVAL COSTUMING

Available for private parties A New Orleans Tradition 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

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6/2/22 1:38 PM

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Watch how Generations of Craftsmen have built THE ORIGINAL FRENCH QUARTER LANTERN TM

bevolo.com • 504-522-9485 • 521 Conti • 304 • 316 • 318 Royal • French Quarter • New Orleans

MARDI GRAS! VALENTINE’S DAY! all rolled up into one

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1/8/24

10:57 AM

NEW

L I B E R AT I O N PAV I L I O N

C

#1 Attraction in New Orleans

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Explore how the war continues to impact our lives today through this three-story exhibit hall highlighting

the end of World War II, The Holocaust, and The Postwar Years

THE NEW LIBERATION PAVILION

Featuring exhibits on the Holocaust, Anne Frank, the Monuments Men and Women, the postwar campaign for freedom and human rights. Don't miss the new Freedom Theater experience!

New SPECIAL EXHIBITION

on the 350,000 American women who served their country in World War II

yle and tion the Ga ounda ted by table F ri presen a h C son n e B Tom

CONTENTS

12 2024

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Calendar 10 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40 THE GUIDE Dining 19 Shopping 28 Attractions 31 Entertainment 33 Nightlife 36

15

The Parades Are Coming!

The Parades Are Coming!

Close to 40 rolling in just under two weeks? Bring ’em on!

16 On the Beat

Head across the river to the city’s Westbank and explore Algiers Point.

ON THE

COVER

17

Restaurant Romance Three Magazine Street eateries you’re sure to swoon over.



A little face paint, a few rhinestones and a whole lot of creativity go into Carnival costuming. ©SHAWN FINK

(FROM TOP) ©PABLEAUX JOHNSON/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHAWN FINK; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©DENNY CULBERT/LA PETITE GROCERY

Locals have been costuming for close the three centuries— join in!

FEB

6

LEARN MORE @ FRENCHMARKET.ORG

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2024

FEBRUARY

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

I

t’s a question often asked by Fat Tuesday first timers: Do I have to wear a costume? The answer, naturally, is of course not…though it certainly helps enrich the experience. The idea is to let go of inhibitions, shrug off conventional strictures and be something other than your same-old self on Mardi Gras Day. A showy Monarch butterfly emerging from its chrysalis? A one-toothed, rum-swilling, patch-eyed pirate? Beyoncé’s backup singer? You do you—or better yet, not you at all.

Costuming or “masking” is an intrinsic part of New Orleanians’ DNA. Locals are known for their penchant for playing dress-up, their deftness with a glue gun and for spending a good portion of the year (and a good chunk of change) crafting their Mardi Gras outfits. It’s nothing new: As historian Terri Simon notes in this month’s cover feature, the city’s costuming culture dates back almost to its founding.

Crescent City creativity will be on full display along the sidelines of the near-40 Carnival parades rolling Uptown and down. From giant superkrewes with their massive, multitiered floats to smaller homespun foot processions, there’s a lot to take in and take part of. Can’t commit to a fullon costume? Try wearing a simple mask instead; it will change your entire perspective on things.

Whatever you wear—or don’t (hey, that’s an option too)—get out and join in “the greatest free party on earth!”

C i n dy Br e nn a n 8

W HERETRAVELE R ® NE W ORLE A NS

201 Royal StReet ~ FRench QuaRteR ~ new oRleanS 504 -5 2 3 -2 0 7 8 ~ w w w .m rb sb i st ro .co m

F E B R U A RY 2 0 2 4

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CRESCENT CITY

PUBLISHER

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Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com EDITOR

Doug Brantley ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Kim Ranjbar, Terri Simon ACCOUNT MANAGER

Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

THE

TOP STOPS

THE LINEUP

6

THE GREASING OF THE POLES

THE GREASING OF THE POLES FEBRUARY 9

GREAT THINGS Intertwined All Month Multidisciplinary Brooklynbased artist Wangechi Mutu works in all manner of media, from drawings and paintings to sculpture and film. On loan from New York’s New Museum, this career overview at the New Orleans Museum of Art examines her artistic evolution through more than 100 works, from early collages to more recent sculptures. noma.org New Orleans Pelicans Throughout the Month Zion Williamson and company play five home games at the Smoothie King Center this month, starting with the Toronto Raptors Feb. 5 and culminating with the Chicago Bulls Feb. 25.

For a full schedule, visit smoothiekingcenter.com.

Family Gras Feb. 2-4 Carnival isn’t all about

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On the Friday before Fat Tuesday, the Royal Sonesta Hotel (300 Bourbon Street) slicks up its balcony supports with petroleum jelly to deter mischievous revelers from shimmying up. What was once purely a preventative measure has since morphed into a massive block party now in its 54th year, complete with a master of ceremonies, live music and celebrity “greasers.” The Mardi Gras must-do gets underway at 10 am, setting the tone for the long, wild weekend ahead.

CIVIC THEATRE Feb. 12: Portugal. The Man. civicnola.com HOUSE OF BLUES Feb. 8: Matisyahu; Feb. 10: Taj Farrant; Feb. 12: Cowboy Mouth; Feb. 17 & 25: Gipsy Kings; Feb. 24: Jaime Wyatt. hob.com JOY THEATER Feb. 24: The Floozies; Feb. 29: October London. thejoytheater.com MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Feb. 17: Ali Wong; Feb. 23: Brian Goldstein. mahalia jacksontheater.com SAENGER THEATRE Feb. 1-4: “Les Miserables”; Feb. 17: Matt Rife. saengernola.com

“INTERTWINED”

booze, beads and balconies. In nearby Metairie, the Mardi party is more kid-friendly than adult-oriented. Free performances by local and national acts are followed by nightly parades. familygras.com The Eagles Feb. 17 “Best of My Love,” “One of These Nights,” “Take It to the Limit,” “Hotel California,” “I Can’t Tell You Why”: After five No. 1 singles, six No. 1 albums and 53 years, the six-time Grammy winners pull into town one last time on their “The Long Goodbye” tour. smoothiekingcenter.com

“AIN’T TOO PROUD”

Ain’t Too Proud Feb. 27-Mar. 3 Based on the memoir of Otis Williams, the only surviving member of The Temptations, this Tonywinning jukebox musical traces the Motown group’s oft-troubled “life and times” from Detroit unknowns to Rock & Roll Hall of Famers. saengernola.com Stevie Nicks Feb. 28 Following two covid cancellations, the “Rumours” legend returns to the Smoothie King Center with her trademark tambourine, signature shawl and virtuosic voice. smoothiekingcenter.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Feb. 3-4: Jurassic World Live. smoothiekingcenter. com TIPITINA’S Feb. 2: Preservation Hall Band; Feb. 3: Galactic; Feb. 8: Freedia Gras; Feb. 9: Dumpstafunk; Feb. 13: Mardi Gras Morning Sunrise Set; Feb. 22: Hiss Golden Messenger; Feb. 24: Tab Benoit; Feb. 25: Hurray for Riff Raff; Feb. 27-28: The Freewheeling Yo La Tengo. tipitinas.com TOULOUSE THEATRE Feb. 12: Quintron & Miss Pussycat; Feb. 16: Code Orange; Feb. 17: Juice; Feb. 21: Donavon Frankenreiter. toulousetheatre.com

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; @2021 EMILO MADRID; ©WANGECHI MUTU AND VIELMETTER LOS ANGELES/PHOTO BY ROBERT EDEMEYER

WHAT’S HAPPENING



CALENDAR

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM

Where Now

Costume Culture

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(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©PABLEAUX JOHNSON/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHAWN FINK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

A look beneath Carnival’s feathers and face paint

TERRI SIMON

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A DIY CARNIVAL CREATION, A BLACK MASKING INDIAN'S FEATHERED-AND-BEADED FINERY, THE KREWE OF RED BEANS FASHIONS COSTUMES FROM LEGUMES

T

he earliest known account of Carnival costuming in New Orleans is nearly 300 years old. It was written by Marc-Antoine Caillot, a clerk for the Company of the Indies in Louisiana. His account describes a masquerade on Lundi Gras—the day before Fat Tuesday—in 1730 on the outskirts of colonial New Orleans.

As Caillot tells the tale, he was the one to have the idea of masquerading. There had been tension between the French and the Tunica and Natchez, whose land they were occupying, and recent raids had left the colonists weary. The Frenchmen in New Orleans were also feeling homesick. It was, after all, what Caillot called “the Fat days”—the Carnival season during which many Catholics, especially those in 18th-century France, indulged themselves in preparation of Lenten fasting. So, in an attempt to lighten his people’s spirits and reconnect with their far-away home country, Caillot proposed that the colonists go masking.

But New Orleans circa 1730 wasn’t exactly a bustling metropolis. It was more like half a square mile of shoddily built huts in the middle of a mosquito-infested swamp. In his manuscript, Caillot writes that his friends didn’t want to mask; how were they supposed to find costumes? But Caillot persevered and threw something together. When Caillot, disguised as a shepherdess, called on his friends, they didn’t even recognize him.

They were so impressed they decided to join in. And so, Caillot and 10 of his friends got dressed up, hired an escort of French soldiers to play music, ordered slaves to light the way with torches and paraded from Place d’Armes (now Jackson Square) to Bayou Saint Jean.

Just like that, a mere 12 years after the city was founded—and nearly 200 years before the first written reference to Halloween costuming in North America—New Orleans’ costume culture was born.

In the 21st-century Crescent City, Carnival costuming is alive and well. Members of Mardi Gras krewes generally wear costumes based on European Carnival traditions: large, colorful smocks, white gloves and masks that cover their faces. Krewe royalty often wear wigs similar to those worn by 18th-century French aristocracy.

Black Masking Indians, participants in a centuries-old tradition rooted in the connections between enslaved Africans and the Native people of South Louisiana, wear intricately beaded-and-feathered suits they spend all year crafting by hand. Some celebrants commission elaborate costumes from local artisans or rent them from shops such as Southern Costume Company or Carl Mack Presents, which have massive warehouses and professional costumers on hand to help.

But most people who costume during Carnival follow in Caillot’s footsteps and put costumes together

13

Where Now

themselves. In the weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday, local costume and makeup shops hire extra staff and extend hours to meet the increased demand for face paint, colorful wigs, spirit gum and glitter. Interested in giving it a go? Here's where you can find what you need to fit in with the fancy folk on Frenchmen Street on Mardi Gras Day:

FIFI MAHONY’S 9343 Royal St., 504.525.4343; and 3212 Dauphine St., 504.581.4343; fifisbywater.square.site

MISS CLAUDIA’S VINTAGE CLOTHING & COSTUMES 4204 Magazine St., 504.897.6310; @missclaudiasvintage

FUNKY MONKEY

SHE COMES IN PEACE

3127 Magazine St., 504.899.5587; funkymonkeynola.com

2025 St. Claude Ave., 504.766.7841; shecomesinpeace.com

BROADWAY BOUND COSTUMES

ELEKTRA COSMETICS/ GLITTER BUFFET

SOUTHERN COSTUME COMPANY

2737 Canal St., 504.821.1000; broadwayboundcostumes.com

2359 St. Claude Ave., 504.507.8470; elektracosmetics.com

CARL MACK PRESENTS

JEFFERSON VARIETY STORE

UPTOWN COSTUME & DANCEWEAR

318 N. Rampart St., 504.949.4009; carlmack.com

239 Iris Ave., Jefferson, 504.834.5222; jeffersonvariety.com

4326 Magazine St., 504.895.7969; @uptowncostume

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MISS CLAUDIA'S VINTAGE CLOTHING & COSTUMES,

(FROM TOP LEFT) ©MISS CLAUDIA'S VINTAGE CLOTHING & COSTUMES; ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHE COMES IN PEACE

FIFI MAHONY'S AND SHE COMES IN PEACE



951 Lafayette St., 504.523.4333; sccnola.com

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Where Now

The Parades Are Coming! The Parades Are Coming!

Hope you packed your Wheaties. You’ll need all the fortification you can get to navigate this month’s 38 Carnival parades squeezed into two jam-packed weeks. The multifloat behemoths roll Uptown and through Mid-City, while the French Quarter, Marigny and Bywater cater to smaller foot processions heavy on charm and creativity. There’s no way to see and do it all…but it sure is fun trying.

Krewe of Cork, French Quarter, 3 pm Oshun, Uptown, 6 pm Cleopatra, Uptown, follows Alla, Uptown, follows

FEB. 3

Pontchartrain, Uptown, 11:30 am Legion of Mars, Uptown, follows Choctaw, Uptown, follows Freret, Uptown, follows Spartan Society, Uptown, 5:30 pm Pygmalion, Uptown, follows

FEB. 4

Barkus, French Quarter, 2 pm Femme Fatale, Uptown, 11 am Carrollton, Uptown, follows King Arthur, Uptown, follows

FEB. 7

Druids, Uptown, 6:15 pm Nyx, Uptown, 6:45 pm

FEB. 8

Babylon, Uptown, 5:30 pm

Chaos, Uptown, follows Muses, Uptown, follows

FEB. 9

Bosom Buddies, French Quarter, 11:30 am Hermes, Uptown, 5:30 pm Krewe d’Etat, Uptown, 6:30 pm Morpheus, Uptown, follows

FEB. 13

Zulu, Uptown, 8 am Society of Saint Anne, Bywater, 10 am Rex, Uptown, 10:30 am

FEB. 10

Krewe of Lafcadio, French Quarter, 2 pm Iris, Uptown, 11 am Tucks, Uptown, 12:30 pm Endymion, Mid-City, 4 pm

FEB. 11

Okeanos, Uptown, 11 am Mid-City, Uptown, follows Thoth, Uptown, follows Bacchus, Uptown, 5:15 pm

FEB. 12

Red Beans, Marigny, 2 pm Dead Beans, Mid-City, 2 pm Proteus, Uptown, 5:15 pm Orpheus, Uptown, follows

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHAWN FINK (2); ©CHERYL GERBER

FEB. 2

15

ON THE BEAT KIM RANJBAR

FIND THE BEST IN

ALGIERS POINT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JAZZ WALK OF FAME, PARK, CONGRATION AND THE ALGIERS COURTHOUSE

SEE

EAT

LEARN

PLAY

Zip across the mighty Mississippi on one of the city’s new catamaran ferries and take in the muddy majesty of one of the longest rivers in the world. Disembark at New Orleans’ second-oldest neighborhood, Algiers Point, founded in 1719.

Take a riverside stroll along the Jazz Walk of Fame for picture-worthy views of St. Louis Cathedral, the skyline and the Crescent City Connection bridge, then explore further, admiring classic local architecture.

House-roasted beans and Ralph Brennan Bakery pastries get the day off to an extra-invigorating start at Congregation Coffee.

Late lunch is just around the corner—a blister-crusted, Naples-inspired pizza from the new Nighthawk Napoletana. For dinner, try 14 Parishes, a Jamaican joint with a rollicking Rum Punch to go with jerk chicken, curries and callaloo.

Down a frothy pint or an Irish whiskey while throwing darts with neighborhood regulars at the Point’s authentic English pub, The Crown & Anchor. Prefer a bottle of wine? The itty-bitty Little House is only a couple of blocks away, with a “wineyard” that frequently offers live music, munchable cheese boards and family-friendly movies. Kids clamor for Confetti Park, a whimsical playground with checkerboard picnic tables.

240 Pelican Ave., 504.265.0194; congrationcoffee.com

Visit the Moorish-influenced, Richardsonian Romanesque-style Algiers Courthouse. Built in 1896, the current structure replaced the Duverjé House, which burned during the Great Algiers Fire of 1895, along with hundreds of other area homes and businesses. Blow your own ornament at Rosetree Glass Studio, located in a 1940s art deco theater where founder and glass artist Mark Rosenbaum shares his 40-plus-year expertise and offers works for sale.

 Canal Street Ferry

 Nighthawk Napoletana

 Algiers Courthouse

200 Pelican Ave., 504.227.1007; crownandanchor.pub

225 Morgan St., 504.407.0436

 The Little House 640 Bouny St., 504.302.1926; @thelittlehousenola

 Confetti Park

1 Canal St.; norta.com

 Jazz Walk of Fame

 Congregation Coffee

Algiers Ferry Terminal

141 Delaronde St.; @nighthawknapoletana

 Algiers Point

 14 Parishes

 Rosetree Blown Glass Studio & Gallery

Bound by Pacific and Opelousas avenues

801 Patterson, 504.345.2500; 14parishes.com

446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602; rosetreegallery.com

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 The Crown & Anchor

451 Pelican Ave.; confettikids.org

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 (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CONGREGATION COFFEE; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

CONFETTI

2

Where Now

RESTAURANT ROMANCE C

ozy, hushed elegance, low-lit rooms, food that oozes sensuality: These three popular romantic restaurants have long graced walkable/ shoppable Magazine Street for a reason. We love to see it. LORIN GAUDIN

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(FROM TOP) ©DENNY CULBERT; ©LILETTE; ©DENNY CULBERT

1

LILETTE

Chef John Harris’ 23-year-old bistro is a local favorite for its cool ambiance, elegant food and smart beverage program. The one “must-eat” appetizer is Louisiana Crab Claws in passionfruit butter…or maybe it’s the Potato Gnocchi with sage brown butter; get both. Then order the Duck Confit Landaise with crispy potatoes and vinaigrette-tossed, frilly escarole. For mains, it’s a toss between the Hanger Steak, fries and marrow bordelaise or Sauteed Branzino, braised white beans, broccoli rabe and sauce beurre blanc. Dessert is a no-brainer: Poached Pears and goat cheese crème fraîche quenelles with pistachio and lavender honey.

3637 MAGAZINE ST., 504.895.1636

2

COQUETTE

Craftily blurring the lines of contemporary and classic, chef Michael Stoltzfus’ food is innovative and artistic—a sharp take on the American South. To start, get the Smoked Trout Roe, onion dip and potato chips, then load the table with a Green Goddess-dressed

salad of Napa cabbage, celery and mint; Roasted Cauliflower; Fried Flounder with Chow Chow and Green Peanut Tartar Sauce; and the Smoked Beef Short Rib, accompanied by puffed rice and cashew mole verde.

1

2800 MAGAZINE ST., 504.265.0421

3

LA PETITE GROCERY

A former corner grocery turned sophisticated brasserie boasting a big, open dining room; we like seats at the bar or in one of the bar booths. Choose a bottle of wine and throw together a shareable meal that includes the Blue Crab Beignets; a fresh, crisp Apple & Celeriac Salad tumbled with pecans, blue cheese and a champagne vinaigrette; the Turtle Bolognese; or a fan favorite, the LPG Cheeseburger topped with onion marmalade, house pickles, whole grain mustard, aïoli and gruyère. The hand-cut fries that come alongside are divine. Save room for the Abita Root Beer Float with homemade cardamom ice cream. Two straws, one spoon…just saying.

3

4238 MAGAZINE ST., 504.891.3377

17

THE

GUIDE OUR

BOWL YOU OVER

Saint John’s (p. 24) gumbo du jour changes at chef Eric Cook’s whim but is always deep, dark and delcioius. As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©RANDY P. SCHMIDT

Central Business/ Warehouse District BÉSAME Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (W-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com BEARCAT CAFÉ Eclectic. At this popular brunch spot the menu is divided into Good Cat/Bad Cat options.

On the naughty side, there’s a lush scramble of eggs and crabmeat or a decadent fried chicken club; to play nice, order the tofu scramble with black bean “sausage.” B, L (Tu-Su). 845 Carondelet St. 504.766.7399.

2521 Jena St., 504.309.9001. bearcatcafe.com

CAFÉ NORMANDIE French. This National WWII Museum eatery leans classic French with American twists.

Dig into short rib-and-grits beignets or an au poivre burger.

B (daily), L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 1000 Magazine St. (in the Higgins Hotel), 504.528.1941. Map 3, B6; higginshotelnola.com CHEMIN À LA MER Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks.

B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5898. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COMMONS CLUB Louisiana. The ramped-up regional fare here is anything but common. Duck confit hash with celery root and mushroom ragu, Iberico pork flank with crab dirty rice, Wagyu burgers with smoked gouda and bacon-fat aioli—see what we mean? D (nightly); Br (F-Su).

550 Baronne St. (in the Virgin Hotel), 833.791.7700. Map 3, C4; virginhotels.com/new-orleans COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli, jerk pork belly and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi.

D (nightly); Br (Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119.

Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as redfish amandine. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay sauce, escargot en croute and steak frites. Br (daily), L (MTh), D (Tu-Sa). 317 Magazine St., 504.342.2316. Map 3, D5; couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at these hip cafés.

Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl

of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com DEVIL MOON BBQ Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su).

1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093.

Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com DOMENICA Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as pork ragu lasagna. Mangia, mangia!

L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out multicourse tasting menus, both classic and seasonal.

The adjacent Wine Bar serves up sharable small plates. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurant.com GIANNA Italian. Rustic Italian fare is the order here. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb lasagna, veal saltimbocca; finish with a butterscotch budino. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center

Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Lobster tacos, duck enchiladas, churro waffles: Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s Poydras Street hot spot puts contemporary spins on standard taqueria fare. L (Su-F), D (nightly). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; johnnysanchezrestaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, oysters are roasted in Calabrian chili butter, the meatballs combine beef with pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com KING BRASSERIE French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, wild boar provençale: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. Beautiful desserts.

Br, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com LUCY’S RETIRED SURFERS BAR & RESTAURANT Eclectic. Its name and laidback vibe hint at the Cali-Mex offerings on the menu at this fun spot. Serious salads, juicy burgers and a variety of tacos pair perfectly with Shark Attack cocktails and top-shelf margaritas. L, D (daily). 701 Tchoupitoulas St. 504.523.8995.

Map 3, C6; lucyssurf.com

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BREWERY SAINT X American. In addition to house-brewed beers, this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked shrimp dip with crab boil saltines) and an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (oyster BLT). L (Tu-Su), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards.

The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123.

Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

Dining

DINING

LUFU NOLA Indian. A flavor-punched modern Indian menu that spans regions and defines boundaries.

Start with the pani puri (crisp semolina shells filled with potato, peas and tamarindmint water), followed by fried masala squid and curried lamb shank. L, D (Th-Tu). 301 St. Charles Ave., 504.354.1104. Map 3, D4; lufunola.com MAYPOP Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Dig into bibb lettuce salad with coconut ranch, fried oysters with bourbon aioli, or go spicy with lamb ragu pappardelle.

D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

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MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the famed chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad and poke nachos to Korean fried chicken wings. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril MISS RIVER Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com THE PEACOCK ROOM Eclectic. It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space.

While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails and a round of sharable small plates (curried cashews with candied bacon). Better yet, settle in with a smash burger. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.3073. Map 3, E5; peacockroomnola.com

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PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174.

Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993.

Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com RESTAURANT AUGUST Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles.

D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily).

525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can

dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485.

Map 3, C6; L (daily). 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; stjamescheese.com TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900.

Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com TSUNAMI Japanese. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (nightly). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com WILLA JEAN Contemporary. Beautiful baked goods and fluffy biscuits will draw you in at breakfast, while the BBQ shrimp toast will bring you back for lunch.

Grab a chocolate chip cookie for later. B, L (daily). 11 O’Keefe St., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4; willajean.com YO NASHI Japanese. Omakase-style dining means multiple courses of whatever stellar sashimi and sushi creations chef Mackenzie Broquet dreams up, using fresh, local ingredients and top-notch techniques. L (F), D (Th-M). 419 Carondelet St., 504.345.2155.

Map 3, C4; yonashinola.com

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure.

The great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich FrenchCreole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (M-Sa); Br (M, Th-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St

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Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes.

D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com BAYONA Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com BIJOU International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here.

Kick off with fried herbed goat cheese balls before moving on to an elegant hanger steak or meatless curried cauliflower.

Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (W-Sa). 1014 N. Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides.

Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell or the bourbon shrimp and grits. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily).

417 Royal St., 504.525.9711.

Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com

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BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the New Orleans’ premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the French Quarter. The kitchen turns out Crescent City classics, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (MSa); jazz brunch (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare.

Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

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CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans.

Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (W-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily).

613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby

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back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com DEANIE’S Seafood. For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish.

Its in-town locations offer the same great menu in posher surroundings, with oodles of cold shrimp and top-quality lump crabmeat. L, D (daily).

841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316.

Map 3, E4; L, D (W-Su). 2200 Magazine St., 504.962.7760.

Map 1, D4; L, D (daily); deanies.com DIAN XIN Chinese. Dim sum craving?

Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on.

L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; dianxinnnola.com. 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinonconti.com DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Order the filet topped with shrimp or crab or go big with a sharable chateaubriand. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannans steakhouse.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list.

L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta).

B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

FRENCH TRUCK Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster.

Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 700 Canal St., 504.290.2664.

Map 3, E5; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115.

Map 3, D7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com GW FINS Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world.

Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467.

Map 3, F4; gwfins.com HABANA OUTPOST Latin. The Brooklyn-based, eco-conscious eatery now has a French Quarter “outpost,” which offers its signature Cuban sandwich, loaded elote and vegan-friendly tacos and bowls. L, D (Th-M). 1040 Esplanade Ave., 504.900.9500.

Map 3, I3; habanaoutpost.com IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu.

D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same

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name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is full-on French with a slight Southern accent: onion soup gratinée and steak tartare share menu space with baked crab mac and shrimp and grits. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com MAMOU French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors.

Celeriac remoulade with blue crab, escargot tartlet with romesco sauce, poisson a la Florentine. Finish with lemon madeleines. D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-M); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

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Dining

NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers sweeping views of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. B, L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (SaSu). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661.

Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com

PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The whole crispy fish is excellent, as is the herb-crusted rack of lamb.

Start with the lump crab and shrimp ravigote. D (W-Su). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504.

Map 3, E4; pelicanclub.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not at Ralph Brennan’s popular seafood spot. The hickorygrilled redfish topped with crab is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; redfishgrill.com

505 Royal Street | 504.525.4855 w w w.wcjewelr y.com

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Cajun. Chef John Folse is the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made

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PALM & PINE Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s curry crab beignets, chicken-fried Texas quail, or dig into closerto-home flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (Th-Tu). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com SAINT JOHN Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, turkey necks smothered in brown gravy, beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M).

1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120.

Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

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STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner.

The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings.

B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com SUN CHONG Asian. This sleek spot doles out Asian fusion fare—crawfish fried rice, beef bulgogi po’boys, matcha cheesecake—and cool specialty cocktails, backed by a hip-hop beat. L (M, W-Th), D (W-M); Br (F-M). 240 Decatur St., 504.355.0022. Map 3, F5; sunchongnola.com SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastropub near Jackson Square, as diners sip handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. Br, D (W-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com

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THAIHEY NOLA Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-Su). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com TUJAGUE’S Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu.

Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Louisiana. Look for the giant cast-iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and dishes such as free-form blue crab raviolo and chili-rubbed pork chop.

Br, D (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; atchafalayarestaurant.com COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French?

Coquette, where the menu changes often but is always stacked with stellar standouts.

D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com FAT BOY PANTRY Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb belly-and-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual

sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514. Map 1, D4; fatboypantry.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen.

The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241.

Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork cheeks with polenta and Creole meunière or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts.

D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Contemporary. The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast/brunch spot.

House-made pop tarts, collard greens and grits, coconut-curry tamales, roasted-carrot yogurt —expect the unexpected. B, Br (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; mollysriseandshine.com SAN LORENZO Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Start with the zucchini fritti. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com STEIN’S MARKET & DELI Deli. A real-deal Jewish deli in New Orleans? Philadelphia native Dan Stein brings a taste of the Northeast to the Deep South with authentic Ruebens on rye, matzo ball soup and crusty Davidovich bagels.

L (Tu-Su). 2207 Magazine St., 504.527.0771. Map 1, D3; steinsdeli.com

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TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater ALMA Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. The menu at this casual neighborhood eatery focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with sweet potatococonut purée, jerk chicken with semolina dumplings; try the spicy seafood stew.

D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or fullon entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this friendly neighborhood joint, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two

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Silkscreen designed by George Rodrigue in 1996 and printed in 2024 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 26 x 26 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon - Sat: 11:00am - 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm

THE ELYSIAN BAR Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets.

D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769.

Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com N7 French. This quiet, hiddenaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7.

Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck confit, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. Grab a seat in the garden. D (M-Sa); Br (F-Su).

1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space.

New York-style pies with an everchanging array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (Tu-Su). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, D3; pizzadelicious.com

Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm

New Orleans, LA 70130

SAINT-GERMAIN French. Named “Best New Chefs of 2021” by Food & Wine, Blake Aguillard and Trey Smith’s casual hot spot offers a reservation-only, 10-course tasting menu that is constantly changing. D (Th-Su). 3054 St. Claude Ave., 504.218.8729. Map 1, D3; saintgermainnola.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this beautifully restored marketplace features 24 steel columns and a variety of food vendors and indoor/outdoor

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www.GeorgeRodrigue.com

Dining

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

seating. B, L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.267.0388; strochmarket.com

Mid-City ADDIS NOLA African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here.

Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef). L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

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ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo.

Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com

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MUTU

ON VIEW THROUGH JULY 14

Wangechi Mutu, Lizard Love, 2006. Mixed media, ink, spray paint, and collage on Mylar.

28 1⁄4 × 24 1⁄4 in. framed. Courtesy the artist, Gladstone Gallery, and Victoria Miro Gallery.

BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, 07-1123 Wangechi Mutu WHERE Ad.indd 1 killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

1/3/24 2:13 PM

DOOKY CHASE’S Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com FLOUR MOON BAGELS Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. Named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit.

B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St., 504.354.1617. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

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Dining

LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687.

Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line.

The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pork belly bowl are must-haves. L, D (daily). 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845.

Map 1, D2; mophonola.com

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Come explore the one-of-a-kind exhibits, interesting interactive experiences and delicious traditions that make Sazerac House the keeper of New Orleans cocktail culture.

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RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with sweet pea risotto. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com ZASU Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, hamachi crudo, fried sea scallops with celery root-apple remoulade. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave.,

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PARKWAY BAKERY Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata.

D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

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BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of the late great Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (TuSa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610.

Map 1, C3; brigtsens.com CASAMENTO’S Seafood. Open since 1919, this Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. L (ThSa), D (Th-Su). 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4; casamentosrestaurant.com THE CHLOE Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out stellar dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the porkand-shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com COSTERA Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com DAKAR NOLA African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors

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of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396.

Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com FRANCOLINI’S Deli. Proof that “not everything from Jersey sucks,” this homage to Northeastern Italian delis offers a wide variety of subs and sandwiches comprised of quality meats and cheeses. The Italian is piled with prosciutto, mortadella, hot capicola, genoa salami and provolone. L (ThTu). 3987 Tchoupitoulas St. Map 1, D4; francolinis.com HUNGRY EYES Eclectic. Step back to 1980s at this fun dining spot where nostalgic cocktails (apple martinis, Cosmopolitans) inform a global “drinking food” menu that mixes Asian (charred okra with lemongrass) with Mediterranean (smoky eggplant dip) and beyond. D (W-M). 4206 Magazine St., 504.766.0054.

Map 1, D4; hungryeyesnola.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are good enough to devour on their own.

B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (Th-Su); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well.

Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (Tu-

Sa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com MISTER MAO Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from ginger salad and escargot Wellington to Kashmiri chile fried chicken and octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-Tu); Br (Sa-Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com OSTERIA LUPO Italian. A nod to Northern Italy, with sharable antipasti (black truffle arancini), handmade pastas (radiatori with Louisiana blue crab) and woodfired meat and seafood entrees.

L (F-Su), D (nightly). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268.

Map 1, D4; osterialupo.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a mustget) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp.

L, D (Tu-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; pascalsmanalerestaurant.com PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all the praise heaped on him as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; patoisnola.com PIGEON & WHALE Seafood. Dip into Northeastern waters on the Gulf: Maine lobster rolls, steamed Atlantic clams, chargrilled PEI mussels, East Coast oysters on the half shell. Gin lovers will fall for the large negroni selection.

D (nightly). 4525 Freret St., 504.249.5487. Map 1, D3; pigeonandwhalenola.com

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SABA Mediterranean. A taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as duck breast with pomegranate molasses, cocoa and citrus. L (F), D (WM); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Elevated Indian fare.

Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and grilled shrimp curry. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com SHAYA Mediterranean.Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection.

L, D (daily). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; shaya restaurant.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

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Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar 811 Conti St

Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731

Shopping

KILLER POBOYS

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311.

Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com

DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP This artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5; dutchalleyartistsco-op.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental

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CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4; gofrenchantiques.com KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552.

Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com LEROY’S PLACE A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture.

922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com

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M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com (MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY The Clash, David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians.

627 St. Peter St. Map 3, G4; mostlyrocknroll.com RODRIGUE STUDIO Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue.

Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

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TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Books & Music BALDWIN & CO. In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com CRESCENT CITY BOOKS Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com EUCLID RECORDS Two well-organized floors of new and used LPs share space with CDs, vintage concert posters and comics.

It’s easy to spend an hour (or two) rummaging the racks here. 3301 Chartres St., 504.504.947.4348. Map 1, E3; euclidrecordsneworleans.com

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in 1925, author William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

Magazine St., 504.324.3745.

Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com H&M The Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5; hm.com JON FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com

PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4; peachesrecordsandtapes.com

MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of headwear in the country. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4; meyerthehatter.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes

SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com CENTURY GIRL A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; centurygirlvintage.com DIRTY COAST Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, this shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955.

Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415

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TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777.

Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

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BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.

610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222.

Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com DARK MATTER Jars of preserved scorpions.

Taxidermy mice, mummified cats and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography.

More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

FLEURTY GIRL These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items.

617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529.

Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net HOME MALONE A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148.

Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2; homemalonenola.com NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030.

Map 1, D4; nolaboards.com

PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French Quarter, with its rich literary heritage, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills and other desk accessories are featured. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4; papierplume.com SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS You can catch a sugar buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles).

334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544.

Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5; southerncandymakers.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top of theline grooming products. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; aidangillformen.com FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby-red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; fifisbywater.square.site HOVÉ A European-style pafumeur in business for 80-plus years.

Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents, like Vertivert. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5; hove parfumeur.com

LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market” décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars.

532 Royal St., 504.529.5704.

Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4; lushusa.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way., 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments, along with rejuvenating facials and more.

4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652.

Map 1, D3; woodhousespas.com

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com KREWE This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a national following.

619 Royal St., 504.407.2925.

Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545.

Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s

her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & CO. This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines.

505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855.

Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers CANAL PLACE Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local shops. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com RIVERWALK OUTLETS Located along the river at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport.

The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors and Sephora. 33301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

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DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com

NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and other gift items.

526 Royal St., 504.533.9853.

Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com.

Shopping/Attractions

Gifts & Collectibles

AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the top-rated zoos in the nation. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

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CEASARS SUPERDOME Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescent parknola.org FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market.

Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org HARRAH’S CASINO The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street.

The mammoth pleasure palace

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features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Hands-on and private sessions are also available; reservations required. 524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5; nosoc.com OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouis cathedral.org PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately red-brick townhouses flaking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries.

Map 3, G5 PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

Jackson Square, 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals.

Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com VUE ORLEANS Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360º observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Historic Homes BK HISTORIC HOUSE AND GARDENS This beautifully restored 1826 villa is the former residence of both Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4; bkhouse.org

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DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org GALLIER HOUSE The home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered W-M. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/museum offers a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours W-M. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750.

Map 3, F4; hgghh.org HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured.

Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm.

Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picturesque Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers guided tours daily, 9 am-4:30 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18 Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802; oakalleyplantation.org PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-F, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; louisianalandmarks.org

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Museums BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM This Tremé space seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org

GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls.

Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo,

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in the Bible Belt, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured; neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100.

Map 1, D2; noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs and phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org SAZERAC HOUSE Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way.

Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm.

101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100.

Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993.

Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

CITY SIGHTSEEING This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811.

Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon-7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-5 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs form Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

DRINK + LEARN Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. Reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; frenchquarterphantoms.com FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Insightful two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; friendsofthecabildo.org GATORS AND GHOSTS This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 728 St. Louis St., 888.481.8188. Map 3, F4; gatorsandghosts.com GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, River Cruises— and all possible combinations.

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District.

Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Harbor jazz cruises M-Sa at 11 am and 2 pm; Su jazz brunch at 11 am.

Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River.

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CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org

where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4 pm. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

Attractions/Entertainment

WHITNEY PLANTATION Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

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504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant.

813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533.

Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

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BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711.

Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com CHANDELIER BAR The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans THE COLUMNS This historic property oozes elegance. Grab a seat at the moody mahogany bar or settle into a courtyard table and listen to the streetcar rumble by, while sipping stellar cocktails and noshing on standout small plates. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4; thecolumns.com DOUBLE DEALER Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com

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EFFERVESCENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and select small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; nolabubbles.com FIVES This European-inspired drinking salon in Jackson Square’s historic Pontalba Buildings serves up both classic and original quaffs, a variety of oysters, caviar and other raw bar options. 29 St. Ann St. Map 3, H5; fives.bar HERMES BAR This hedonistic hideaway inside Antoine’s restaurant offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and knowledgeable bartenders. 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; antoines.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this cozy space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain.

A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823.

Map 3, G4; patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map

3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com THE WILL & THE WAY Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this easy-to-overlook gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated bar menu. 2719 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thewillandtheway.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL BAR This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399.

Map 3, J4 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com THE FILLMORE Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com HOUSE OF BLUES The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured; retro burlesque

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on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse MAPLE LEAF A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats.

8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com REPUBLIC NOLA One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a latenight dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com SNUG HARBOR An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.

Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 2 pm, with additional sets at 6 and 10 pm. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com THREE MUSES A veritable NOLA nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, a smattering of small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801.

Map 3, J5; 3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com TOULOUSE THEATRE This music venue takes its name from a former cinema in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting performers from around the globe.

615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771.

Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 K CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 1 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6 FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8 HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6 2 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 PP LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 5 MG Magnolia Hotel, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 t S 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 ain ve A e NO AvNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 Sp h c n i l Ro FrankOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3 St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 6 OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 7 Street Direction RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4 French Quarter RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Garden Arty Robert Indiana’s iconic “Love” sculpture, one of more 90 works by modern masters populating the New Orleans Museum of Art’s free Besthoff Sculpture Garden (p. 33).

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©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

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CHANEL vintage collection

329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262

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