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NEW ORLEANS NOV 2023

Crescent City Crafters The Liberation Pavilion Debuts What’s New & Noshable

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KEEP THESE TUCKED-AWAY SIPPING SPOTS SECRET

Available for private parties A New Orleans Tradition 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

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Visit The

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Watch how Generations of Craftsmen have built THE ORIGINAL FRENCH QUARTER LANTERN TM

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Picasso

Jose Basso

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Rembrandt

SCAN THE QR CODE TO BUY YOUR TICKETS OR PURCHASE ONLINE AT NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

Experience the New

LIBERATION PAVILION OPENING IN NOVEMBER Explore how the war continues to impact our lives today throughout this three-story exhibit hall highlighting

THE END OF WORLD WAR II, THE HOLOCAUST and THE POSTWAR YEARS

945 Magazine Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504-528-1944 nationalww2museum.org Daily 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

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CONTENTS

14 Airbrushed bonbons, luxe jewelry, artful candles, huggable sculpture: We’ve got your holiday gift list all wrapped up.

2023

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 10 Calendar 12 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40 THE GUIDE Dining 25 Shopping 30 Attractions 32 Entertainment 36 Nightlife 36

Victory Lap The National WWII Museum opens its final permanent exhibit space, the Liberation Pavilion.

Tucked-Away Tipples Six secretive drinking spots to get you off of Bourbon Street.

ON THE

Hot Dish

COVER

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A Manic Pixie Dream Girl mocktail—grapefruit cordial, beet shrub, lemon, rosemary—and macarons at Bar Marilou. ©MARIANNA MASSEY

Chargrilled mussels, kicked-up calamari, Basque cheesecake— yes, yes and yes, please!

(FROM TOP) ©PINK CHEEKS STUDIOS; ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; ©RANDY P. SCHMIDT; ©WINNIE RUBIN

NOV

SP E C I AL AD V E RT IS IN G

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

ong before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. The nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, flea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the first apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of offerings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org. © ZACK SMITH

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op member Kiki Huston’s hand-fabricated silver jewelry pieces are unique masterpieces. Huston is primarily self-taught, using traditional smithing techniques—sawing, hammering and soldering—and enjoys experimenting with enamel, epoxy resin and stones to discover new ways to incorporate texture, color and images into her designs.

MARKET MERCH Artist Kelly Magee is creating a new series of larger than usual (for her) paintings on canvas. These unique works are meant to be evocative of the tastes, smells, festivals and fun that are everyday life in New Orleans and the Deep South in general. Magee also takes commissions for custom pet portraits. You’ll find her paintings at the Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op.

WHAT’S HAPPENING November 4 Fall Harvest Fest Celebrate the bounty of south Louisiana with fresh farm-to-table produce and regional live music. Free and open to the public.

December 2 St. Nick Celebration Kickoff the holiday season in the French Market District with live music, kid’s activities and the Children’s Hospital New Orleans Holiday Parade!

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2023

NOVEMBER

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

ew Orleans is nothing if not creative. All it takes is a visit during Mardi Gras—or Halloween, or Christmas, or Easter, or Jazzfest or any time of the year, really—to witness locals’ ingenuity and imagination on full display. Peek into most any attic or guestroom closet, and you’ll likely find it crammed with costumes for every occasion and over-the-top wigs to go with them. In other towns such might be considered odd or eccentric; here it’s a lifestyle. So, it was no hard feat for contributor Lorin Gaudin to round up a roster of Crescent City creatives for this month’s lead feature; the real work was in narrowing down the options. From “bean to bar” chocolates and bananas Foster-flavored rum to fine art photography and locally inspired candles, there’s lots to seek out for your holiday gift list. A serious day of shopping the city can leave a person parched. Bourbon Street is known for its fabled bars, but in this issue, Jenny Adams steers visitors away from the tried and trodden and toward six secretive spots around town to get their sip on. Elsewhere we salute the opening of the National WWII Museum’s final exhibit space and dig into a trio of new restaurants. The Oak Street Po’Boy Festival, the New Orleans Film Festival, the Bayou Classic’s Battle of the Bands, NBA tournaments, Human Horse Races (there’s that eccentric streak again): Get out and create some fun!

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NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL

THE

NOVEMBER 2-7

CALENDAR

This Oscar-qualifying affair offers screenings of 29 feature films and 98 shorts, with 22 world premieres, at various venues citywide. neworleans filmsociety.org

2023

NOVEMBER

WATER LANTERN FEST

MJ THE MUSICAL NOVEMBER 1-12

Nearly 15 years after his death, Michael Jackson still reigns as the King of Pop. This Tony-winning jukebox musical, packed with hit after mega hit

NOVEMBER 12

Personalize illuminated paper lanterns with your own message or notes to loved ones during this familyfriendly gathering at Armstrong Park, then set them afloat at sunset. waterlantern festival.com

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(close to 40 total), offers a sentimental retelling of the entertainer’s complicated life story with a focus on his artistry and music, from his early “ABC” days to preparation for his 1992 Dangerous World Tour. saengernola.com

WATER LANTERN FESTIVAL

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL; ©WATER LANTERN FESTIVAL; ©MICHAEL MURPHY

NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL

MJ THE MUSICAL

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OAK STREET PO’BOY FESTIVAL NOVEMBER 15 The humble po’boy sandwich gets elevated to a full-on Crescent City culinary icon during this daylong yum fest stretching along six blocks of Oak Street. More than 40 vendors serve up both traditional varieties ( fried shrimp, roast beef, hot sausage) and not-so (pecan-smoked beef cheeks, oysters Rockefeller, fried lobster) for your tasting pleasure, while local bands perform for free on multiple stages. poboyfest.com

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(FROM LEFT) ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SERGIO GARCIA

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH New Orleans Pelicans Throughout the Month The Pels play nine home games this month, including two of the NBA’s inaugural “in-season tournaments” against the Dallas Mavericks (Nov. 14) and the Denver Nuggets (Nov. 17). For a full lineup, visit smoothiekingcenter.com. New Orleans Saints Nov. 5 Quarterback Derek Carr and company take on the Chicago Bears at noon at the Superdome, preceded by a free fan fest at the adjacent Champions Square. caesarssuperdome.com Margaret Cho Nov. 5 The unapologetically boundary-pushing actor/

ENTERTAINMENT

TOP STOPS CIVIC THEATRE Nov. 19: Fit for an Autopsy and Exodus. civicnola.com

THE FILLMORE Nov. 2: Russell Dickerson; Nov. 8: Bullet for My Valentine; Nov. 17: Porno for Pyros; Nov. 25: Mersiv; Nov. 26: Aqua. fillmorenola.com HOUSE OF BLUES Nov. 1: Wishbone Ash; Nov. 8: Paper Kites; Nov. 11: Phillip Phillips; Nov. 12: Arin Ray. hob.com

OAK STREET PO’BOY FEST

MARGARET CHO

singer/songwriter/comic pulls into the Orpheum on her “Live and Livid” standup tour. orpheumnola.net

offers an equine-free alternative at Easton Park. Outrageous headwear is de rigueur at both. fairgrounds racecourse.com; human horseraces.com

New Orleans Cocktail Week Nov. 6-12 Raise a toast to the city’s love of libations. A $15 pass allows participants to sip discounted signature drinks at select bars and restaurants from Uptown to down. neworleanscocktailweek.us Thanksgiving Day Races Nov. 23 For generations, locals have made Turkey Day pilgrimages to the New Orleans Fair Grounds Race Course to witness the traditional running of the ponies. The equally fun (and free) Human Horse Races, with jockeys carried piggyback,

Bayou Classic & Battle of the Bands Nov. 24-25 Grambling State and Southern University square off for their 50th annual post-Thanksgiving matchup Nov. 25 at 1 pm. But the big rivalry is the heated Battle of the Bands and Greek Show Nov. 24 at 6 pm. caesarssuperdome.com Maxwell Nov. 24 The “neo soul” R&B great pours on the smooth at the Smoothie King Center, joined by Leela James. smoothiekingcenter.com

JOY THEATER Nov. 9: G Jones; Nov. 11: LSDream; Nov. 16: Alt-J; Nov. 18: Greensky Bluegrass. thejoytheater.com ORPHEUM THEATRE Nov. 8: Tinashe and Shygirl; Nov. 10: Men I Trust; Nov. 18: The Head and the Heart; Nov. 24: PJ Morton; Nov. 30: Liz Phair. orpheumnola.net SAENGER THEATER Nov. 16: Derek Hough; Nov. 24: Nurse Blake; Nov. 29-Dec. 17: “Wicked.” saengernola.com TIPITINA’S Nov. 7: Tennis; Nov. 10: Rory Danger & the Danger Dangers; Nov. 29: American Aquarium and Lance Roark. tipitinas.com TOULOUSE THEATRE Nov. 1: Jonathan Richman; Nov. 2-4: Houndmouth; Nov. 8: The Brook & the Bluff; Nov. 11: Yard Act. toulousetheatre.com

NEW ORLEANS

Crescent City Creatives

WHERE NOW

PIPE FROM FICUS CERAMICA; BOTTOM: HAZELTINE'S TERRE BONNE CANDLE

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ew Orleans is, in a word, art. It’s a city of deep texture, emotion, color, scent, sound—a giant living mural drawing creatives to her shores. Historically, the Crescent City has long inspired creativity; think Tennessee Williams, Louis Armstrong, Edgar Degas, Paul Prudhomme. The symbiosis of artist to place is real, and the number of artists so vast, the Historic New Orleans Collec-

tion created an Artist Database to house the content. Every local shop, art market, fair or festival has head-spinning talent to discover, collect and consume; trust me, I’m conspicuous. To pare down this list is to ask a parent to choose a favorite child. Impossible. So, consider this the beginning of a great work; a peek, a sketch, a few notes, a taste.

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TOP: A CRAWFISH

(TOP) ©PAPRIKA STUDIOS; (BOTTOM) ©RANDY P. SCHMIDT/HAZELTINE

Eight great local makers to put on your radar—and on your gift-giving (and -getting) list LORIN GAUDIN

Where Now

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BEAUTIFUL BONBONS FROM PIETY AND DESIRE, HAPPY RAPTOR'S 504RUMS AND THE TEA SPILL'S UNFILTERED HONEY AND LAISSEZ LES BON TEMPS ROULER BLEND

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(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©CHRISTOPHER NOBLES; ©HAPPY RAPTOR DISTILLING; ©LORIN GAUDIN

GET LIT Jane Bleeker’s Hazeltine, a locally poured candle company (hazeltinescent.co), lassoes the nostalgia of scent to memory, human nature to environment. White coconut wax, blended with high-quality essential oils and perfume-grade fragrance oil, is poured into clear glass vessels emblazoned with Bleeker’s own line drawings, printed by the Southern Letterpress. In short, the entire candle is a work of art. “Night of Joy” is her love note to the city, evoking the scent of night-blooming jasmine, sweet olive, old wood and humidity, while “Terre Bonne” vibes swamp, moss, earth and cypress. Pop into Merchant House or Blue Dream (both on Magazine Street) to get fired up. Ficus Ceramica ( ficusceramica.com) is the genius work of Kate Clarke. Using real food or nature objects, Clarke handcrafts molds, then pours her own porcelain recipe to fashion smokable pipes and decorative vases. The results are beautiful, deliciously realistic and utilitarian. The pomegranate pipe has individually defined arils and the distinct coloration of the exterior and interior of the fruit’s skin. Her fried chicken leg and oyster pipes smack of realism in the best way. Single hitters or joint holders look like asparagus, a crab claw, broccoli or okra. All are highly (wink, wink) recommended for smokers and nonsmokers. You’ll find her work at Dirty Coast on Chartres Street and C’Mere on Esplanade. A woman-owned distillery, Happy Raptor (504rum.com) makes infused 504Rum and syrups, inspired by the city’s flavor, culture and community. Located in Central City on Carondelet Street, the distillery is also available for tours, with a bar, cocktail

classes and a pop-up food and art vendor spot. The rums and syrups are made with Louisiana sugar cane and molasses ( for the rum), infused, bottled and labeled on site. The current rum lineup includes Bananas Foster, King Cake, Hibiscus, Gold and Silver. Syrups flavors—Lavender-Lemon-Peppercorn, Praline, Cucumber-Lemon-Mint and Hibiscus—are perfect for mixers or flavoring sodas and mocktails.

PINKIES UP Chocolatier Chris Nobles’ lower Magazine Street Piety and Desire (pietyanddesirechocolate.com) is both a cool chocolate shop and sit-down coffee spot that smells divine. With a comforting Old World feel, there is also a modernity to the madness. Nobles produces delectable handmade chocolate bars and airbrushed bonbons that reflect his passion as a “curator of cacao.” Bonbons can be purchased singly or in boxes, and the flavors are varied, with collections changing seasonally. Year ’rounders include Single Origin Dark, Café Au Beignet, Sazerac and Brown Butter Bourbon. If the Peanut Better Cups are on hand, get one—or 10— along with a jar of the Drinking Chocolate. New Orleans police officer, beekeeper and tea purveyor Kira Boudreaux fights crime and, in her spare time, operates an online business, The Tea Spill (theteaspill.com). Raising bees in her backyard hives, Boudreaux harvests and jars deep, softly sweet and herbaceous unfiltered, raw honey. Fine, looseleaf tea blends are thoughtfully put together with a New Orleans taste of place. “The Garden District” is a refreshing mix of white tea, lemony hibiscus and flowers and, in Mardi Gras’ purple, green and gold

Where Now

LET’S SEE Fine jeweler extraordinaire Ashley Porter recently moved her popular Porter Lyons shop (porterlyons. com) to a luxurious space on Royal Street. Longtime fans/collectors likely have a stash of her early, more rustic pieces, but Porter’s design evolution has been astronomic and is now a constant craving. Using gems and white, yellow and rose gold (there’s still some brass and sterling too), there are incredible earrings, charms, necklaces and rings in modern shapes and

style—from boney hands giving “the finger” to bejeweled scarabs, lightning bugs, zodiac constellations, etc. Porter has a beautiful bridal collection, and her hip ear studs selection is phenomenal. The boutique also offers permanent bracelets in fine metals. Les is more. A one-time security expert and celebrity guard, Les Schmidt's best-kept secret is a passion for photography (lesschmidtphotography.com). His stunning collection of images ranges from pretty and ethereal to intensely real and emotional portraiture, nature, landscapes and still lifes. Calling New Orleans home, it’s easy to spy out-of-focus local vistas and architecture in many of Schmidt’s photos. Expect

to hitch a breath when perusing his Katrina works. The kitschy “unremarked” series features texturally interesting, overhead shots of found items. Nichól Brinkman is a Louisianabased, multidisciplinary artist. That means her art is done in many forms—silkscreens, paintings, soft sculptures, cards and poster. Her Cloud People, Fox Girls, Beehive Ladies and other adorable characters of Pink Cheeks Studios (pinkcheeksstudios.com) can be found at area art markets, festivals (she recently was a vendor at Jazzfest) and online. The brightly colored, totally huggable soft sculptures are a must-buy. Wait…so are the prints, paintings, books, mugs and stickers.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PINK CHEEKS STUDIOS' NICHÓL BRINKMAN WITH HER CHARMING SOFT SCULPTURES, DIAMONDAND-EMERALD GATOR RINGS FROM PORTER LYONS AND LES

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SCHMIDT'S "DRAGON 2"

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©PINK CHEEKS STUDIOS; ©PORTER LYONS; ©LES SCHMIDT PHOTOGRAPHY

colors, the aptly named “Laissez les Bon Temps Rouler” delightfully combines green tea, dried citrus, calendula, sunflower petals and purple cornflower petals.

NOVEMBER 2023

Where Now

VICTORY LAP T

he National WWII Museum caps off two decades of expansion with its new Liberation Pavilion DOUG BRANTLEY

houses the immersive Freedom Theater experience, which like its 4D predecessor, the Victory Theater’s ”Beyond All Boundaries,” is emotionally—and physically—moving (the audience platform rotates). The weeklong grand opening celebration includes a free Medal of Honor Community Forum Oct. 30 at the Convention Center, a military parade with Medal of Honor recipients Nov. 1 and a Family and Military Appreciation Block Party Nov. 4. For details and tickets, visit nationalww2museum.org.

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(ALL IMAGES) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

When it debuted in June 2000, the thennamed National D-Day Museum consisted of a single exhibition hall. On Nov. 3, the since-retitled National WWII Museum will open its seventh and final permanent exhibit space, marking the completion of a $400-million capital campaign that has quadrupled the Smithsonian affiliate’s footprint over the past 23 years and helped secure its position as the city’s top-rated attraction.

The new, three-story Liberation Pavilion focuses on the end of World War II and its lasting impact. The first floor’s “Finding Hope in a World Destroyed” features exhibits on the Holocaust, Anne Frank and faith during wartime, along with a panoramic theater providing powerful personal accounts of concentration camp survivors and the U.S. forces that liberated them. On the second floor, “Foundation Forces of Freedom at Home and Abroad” examines postwar rebuilding efforts and the rise of the U.S. as a global leader. The third floor

NEW ORLEANS

Tucked-Away Tipples

WHERE NOW

Get off the beaten path and slip into these brilliant bars Jenny Adams

DOUBLE DEALER

BAR MARILOU In the Central Business District, just to the left of the Maison de la Luz hotel’s front doors, you’ll see a vine-covered, arched alleyway. Take it to this Wes Anderson-worthy cocktail parlor, where the walls are painted lacquer red, the barstools are covered in leopard-print velvet and there’s a secret bookshelf-door passage for hotel guests to get back into the lobby. The drinks and wine here focus French, and the lists are serious,

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DOUBLE DEALER In a city below sea level, it’s rare to find a basement bar. Beneath the Orpheum Theater, the Double Dealer provides everything you want in a speakeasy, including red velvet curtains, thick Persian carpets, concrete accents, vaudeville-inspired live acts and iconic jazz trios. The cocktails showcase some of New Orleans’ best sips, whether you choose a Dryad (vodka, velvet falernum, lime and grapefruit) or a more stalwart, stirred drink like the Dying Gladiator (dark rum, Meletti, sweet vermouth and Angostura bitters). doubledealernola.com

THE TELL ME BAR If you overhear someone speaking of this wine bar in hushed tones, it’s because no one wants the superlative secret let out.

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(FROM LEFT) ©RANDY P. SCHMIDT; ©DOUBLE DEALER

MARILOU AND THE

curated selections with great balance. “The goal is to create a spirited sanctuary with a distinguished-yet-relaxed environment,” says general manager Lindsay Dukes, “like the salon of a well-traveled, eccentric aunt.” barmarilou.com

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ure, the main throughfares of New Orleans are enticing. They are some of the most talked about streets in the world for travelers, from Royal’s European antiques to Magazine’s independent boutiques to Bourbon’s all-night escapades. But veering off the well-trodden path will result in memorable moments enjoyed among locals. Here we toast a few of our favorite tuckedaway drinking spots, including a saison-heavy brewery next to the train tracks, a speakeasy hidden beneath a famous theater and a new bar where absinthe rules the roost.

FROM LEFT: BAR

Down a tough-to-navigate series of one-way small turns in the Lower Garden District, this is a divine, natural wine bar with frequent DJs, food pop-ups and caviar service. Dessert sherry, Austrian rosé with skin contact, a petite sirah served gently chilled—drinking here is educational, and happy hour takes place every day from 4 to 6 pm, with exceptional wines by the glass for only $9. thetellmebar.com Anna’s isn’t hidden, but it is nestled outside of most tourist paths, deep in the Marigny neighborhood. We love the upstairs of this cocktail-focused dive bar best. Victorian fainting couches, a wraparound balcony, funky lamps and antique mirrors: This hideaway feels like a cross between an old saloon and a ramshackle parlor. “We have a pretty robust events

FIVES Brand new and half a block from Café Du Monde, you might walk right past this European-inspired drinking salon and raw bar if you’re not careful. Don’t miss it. Fives’ interiors wow, from the wooden oval bar with its green marble top to the antique chandelier. Round tables with bentwood chairs circle the space, and a series of sketches by American printmaker and painter Gerald Gooch decorate the walls. Grab a Little Gem salad and a beef tartar, aside a perfect cocktail. We advise

the nod to the great film “Casablanca” called The Gin Joint, with Chartreuse, celery, sage and lemon. fives.bar

PARLEAUX BEER LAB To qualify as a tucked-away tipple, we aren’t excluding beer lovers or those looking for an outdoor hang. Parleaux Beer Lab ticks all the boxes, as a neighborhoodfocused brewery in the Bywater right beside the railway tracks. You won’t find a flagship beer, but, instead, a penchant for experiments. Parleaux is known for small-batch, creative brews, like its Lesseps Street Lager, made with Texas-grown malt and Michigan hops for a zingy, refreshing sip. Dogs and kids are welcome, there’s both outdoor and indoor seating and it’s open daily, starting at 3 pm on weekdays and noon on weekends. parleauxbeerlab.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ANNA’S, PARLEAUX BEER LAB, THE TELL ME BAR AND FIVES

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©RANDY P. SCHMIDT; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CAJUN CAVIAR/THE TELL ME BAR; ©CORY JAMES_FONTENOT

ANNA’S

program in our upstairs bar,” notes owner and namesake Anna Giordano. “We host a monthly art opening on the first Wednesday called Salon D’Whatever and have a resident band that plays on the third Saturday of the month, called Night Medicine.” annasnola.com

PLATES RESTAURANT & BAR

Chef Farrell Harrison weaves together New Orleans’ panoply of cultures and cuisines in a shareable-plates format. Start with charred okra in a Viet-Cajun butter, winding into Tuna Crudo and an order of Wild Mushrooms with a farm egg, aged goat cheese and grilled sourdough. Go big on large plates like whole Gulf Fish with charred scallions and a Calabrian chili vinaigrette, Crispy Coq au Vin with red wine jus or a Pork Porterhouse with sweet potato gratin and mustard bordelaise. Save room for the rich and somehow light Basque Cheesecake with fruit-and-spice compote. 1051 ANNUNCIATION ST., 504.582.9020

PIGEON AND WHALE

Adding to the food (and cocktail) fun on Freret Street, P&W’s menu is packed with smart and interesting seafood options that defy definition. Note the solid selection of oysters from Northeastern waters, Chilled Shrimp with crème fraiche and a lime vinaigrette and a novel Chargrilled Mussels draped in brown butter and Parmesan. Don’t

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LORIN GAUDIN

stop there. How about that Lobster Roll with licorice-y tarragon butter? For those desperately seeking veg, there’s Eggplant Doughnuts with smoky eggplant aioli and a sharp piquillo romesco or Roasted Carrots on english pea purée with a shimmer of za’atar olive oil.

4525 FRERET ST., 504.249.5487

BEGGARS BANQUET

There’s a cool backstory here involving the trade of a drum set for a New Jersey soda shop and a culinary career culminating in New Orleans. Chef Mike Dilonno has come full circle with this eye-catching spot serving lunch and dinner. As a starter, Crispy Firecracker Calamari pairs lightly fried rings with capers, hot peppers, olives and scallions set atop balsamic vinegar. Follow with a Gulf Shrimp Salad of tender lettuce leaves, smoked gouda, berries, candied pecans and a fruity vinaigrette, and get the hand-cut fries. At dinner, things lean comfortingly Continental with Coquilles St. Jacques, Fresh Gnocchi, Duck Leg Confit or Boneless Short Ribs over whipped potatoes. 1330 PRYTANIA ST. 504.766.6711

NOVEMBER 2023

(FROM TOP) ©RANDY P. SCHMIDT; ©WINNIE RUBIN; ©LORIN GAUDIN

What’s new, now and not to be missed

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Hot Dish

VINTAGE CHANEL Miriam Haskell • Dior • Hermes • YSL • Bakelite • Trifari • Taxco Sterling Silver • Designer handbags • Vintage Barware • Original Lithograph Posters • Vintage Sunglasses • mEMENTO mORI

329 Royal St, New Orleans • 504.525.2262 • WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

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SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

H O L I D A Y

GIFT GUIDE Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, or that something special for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

WELLINGTON & CO. FINE JEWELRY Showcasing a wide array of antique, estate and custom jewelry designs along with preowned luxury watches, Wellington & Co. Fine Jewelry provides an inviting experience within its multigenerational shop in the heart of the French Quarter. 505 Royal Street | 504.525.4855 wcjewelry.com

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in barware from the 50s & 60s. Pictured: Scandinavian Etched Cordial, Culver Red Paisley Old Fashioned, Fred Press red & gold cordial, Culver Red Paisley Tumbler, Pink & Blue “Wet Your Whistle” Swizzle Sticks, Culver Valencia Pitcher, Georges Briard Firenze Tumbler, Culver blue, green & gold juice glass, Mosaic gold, blue & green cordial. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

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LET THERE BE LIGHT Add a sophisticated radiance to any outdoor affair with Bevolo Gas & Electric Light’s French Quarter nine-inch tabletop lantern. Hand riveted and made with antique copper, this lantern will give a Vieux Carré courtyard ambiance to any occasion. 304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter

NOVEMBER 2023

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

H O L I D A Y

GIFT GUIDE THE SAZERAC HOUSE Mixology Set. Etched with a pattern inspired by the wrought iron fences of New Orleans, this stainless steel bar kit includes everything you need to make perfect drinks at home. Kit includes Japanese-style jigger, shaker tins, bar spoon, and strainer. $75. https://store.sazerachouse.com/ mixology-bar-kit.html

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

BUNGALOWS Bungalows, Julie Vos designed and handcrafted to the standards of fine jewelry. Made of semiprecious stones, pearl and imported glass, handset in 24k gold plate. A variety of collections available at Bungalow’s. 610 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 522.9222 www.ShopBungalows.com

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Please visit our studio and gallery as we celebrate our 30th anniversary! Watch masters of the ancient art create quality, affordable blown glass in the only New Orleans year-round studio. Located in an award-winning restored Art Deco movie theater and rated #2 art gallery on Tripadvisor. 446 Vallette, Historic Algiers Point, New Orleans, 70114. Open M-F 10-5, call for Saturday hours. (504) 366-3602 www.rosetreegallery.com

THE

GUIDE OUR

FALL IN

Beef Short Rib Massaman with potatoes and peanuts from Thaihey NOLA (p. 26). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.

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Central Business/ Warehouse District BREWERY SAINT X American. In addition to house-brewed beers, this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked fish dip with crab boil chips) and an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (eggplant and burrata). L (TuSu), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

MISS RIVER Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-greatgrandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (MSa); Br (F-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com

BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St.,

504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com GW FINS Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com MAMOU French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red bean cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parsley potatoes. Finish with lemon madeleines. D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-M); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

THE GUIDE

DEVIL MOON BBQ Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su). 1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com

KING BRASSERIE French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, crawfish and collard greens: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. Beautiful desserts. B, L, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com

Dining

DINING

SAINT JOHN Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot crawfish remoulade, baked deviled crabs, Creole beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com THAIHEY NOLA Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-Su). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

D IN IN G

TUJAGUE’S Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes often but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go

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505 Royal Street | 504.525.4855 www.wcjewelr y.com

NE W ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2023

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Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Back

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

Front

Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm

D IN IN G

THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. This long-popular Bywater hangout offers casual fine dining. Dive into bigflavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or full-on entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

610 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504.522.9222

ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this friendly neighborhood joint. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City ADDIS NOLA African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese.

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NE W ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2023

Dining

L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com PARKWAY BAKERY Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’ s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

ON VIEW THROUGH NOVEMBER 26

TOUPS’ MEATERY Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with sweet pea risotto. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

UPTOWN

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

THE ST. LOUIS GARDEN

Silkscreen Designed by George Rodrigue in 2011 and Printed in 2023 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 37 x 15 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon Mon- -Sat: Sat:11:00am 11:am - -5:00pm 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm

www.GeorgeRodrigue.com

COSTERA Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com DAKAR NOLA African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well.

THE GUIDE

03-0123 Fashioning America Where Traveler Square Ad.indd 1

AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus 8/30/23 5:14 PMwith pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com SHAYA Mediterranean. Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection; try the fried chicken version. L, D (daily). 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4; shayarestaurant.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques

D IN IN G /SH O P P IN G

ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

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FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com RODRIGUE STUDIO Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes DIRTY COAST Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.

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610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com FLEURTY GIRL These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com WELLINGTON & CO. This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers CANAL PLACE Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com RIVERWALK OUTLETS Located along the riverat the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and

NOVEMBER 2023

Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

S H O P P IN G /AT T R A C T IO N S

AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org HARRAH’S CASINO The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St.,

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NOVEMBER 2023

Speaking of

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

THIS FOOTBALL SEASON, CATCH ALL THE ACTION ON AND OFF THE FIELD AT OUR ‘HOUSE!

KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org WHITNEY PLANTATION Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

811 Conti St

Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

THE GUIDE

727 IBERVILLE AT BOURBON | 504.524.4354 PENTHOUSECLUBNEWORLEANS.COM | @PHCNEWORLEANS

Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar

Attractions

800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

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DAUPHINE HermannGrima House

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Harrah’s Casino

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324 Chartres St. (504)523-7463

4/6/18 3/6/18 4/4/18 12:37:51 7:50:41 1:06 PM PM PM

Canal Place Shopping

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

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900

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1200

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1100

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1000

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900

ST. PHILI P

800

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700

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600

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600

5 Jackson Square

ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

CHARTRES

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

ROYAL

700

storic O. llection

Wh arf

329 Royal St, New Orleans 504.525.2262 WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

Historic Algiers Point

SCAN FOR RESERVATIONS

125 BOURBON STREET DINE IN. TAKE OUT. DELIVERY.

Museums THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

AT T RA C T IO N S/E N T ER TA IN M EN T /N IG H T L IF E

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an exten-

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sive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su (10 am-5 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-5 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

SAZERAC HOUSE Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

ENTERTAINMENT

NIGHTLIFE

Cruises & Tours

Cocktails

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com GATORS AND GHOSTS This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and

BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com CHANDELIER BAR The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

NE W ORLE A NS

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

Live Entertainment BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com HOUSE OF BLUES The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com MAPLE LEAF A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

NOVEMBER 2023

Maps

NEW ORLEANS MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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190

Crowley

Lafayette

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Abbeville

Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

New Iberia

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3127

310

Thibodaux

182 82

Franklin

Metairie

Houma

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

New Orleans

Vermilion Bay

1 59

Slidell

Lake Pontchartrain 10

Napoleonville

Covington Abita 41 Springs 22 Mandeville

182

167

Hammond 12

Folsom

Plaquemine

10 90

165

E 51

Baton Rouge 190

190

Baker

61 1

Opelousas

Eunice

190

71 167

39 23

1 24

Gulf of Mexico

Port Sulphur

Atchafalaya Bay

Barataria Bay

Cailou Bay

Grand Isle

Buras-Triumph Venice

Gulf of Mexico

Terrebonne Bay

10 mi 10 km

THE GUIDE

Gretna

NEW ORLEANS MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Caesars Superdome

Smoothie King Center N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater HS

Orpheum Theater

Cancer Survivors Park

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Civic Theatre

Canal Streetcar Line

Rampart Streetcar Line

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St Louis Cathedral

La. Supreme OO Court Building

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National WWII Museum

Audubon Aquarium & Insectarium

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Riverwalk Outlets

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Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

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NE W ORLE A NS

New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

NOVEMBER 2023

Maps

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 K CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 1 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6 FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8 HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6 2 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 PP LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 5 MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 t S NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 ain ve A e OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3 Sp v ch lin A Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7 Ro FrankOR St OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6 6 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 7 Street Direction RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4 French Quarter RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like. WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Wilkinson

N.O. Jazz Museum/ HM Old U.S. Mint

French Market

l ya Ro

Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

BK Historic CY House

St Louis Cathedral

THE GUIDE

lau

C St

Thanks Given The National WWII Museum (p. 36) campus features more than 55,000 commemorative “Victory bricks” honoring those who served during the global conflict.



PARTING SHOT

40 W HERETRAVELER

NE W ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2023

CHANEL vintage collection

329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262

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