Ventura Blvd August 2021

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AUG 2021

The Food Issue

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AUGUST 2021

18 BEE WHISPERER When your misson is propagating the bee population

24

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IN A PICKLE The challenges and survival tactics of local delis

THE SAUCE

32

46

SUMMER SWAPS

MAKE IT HOT

Inventive twists on classic seasonal dishes

Fortune Southern opens Barbie-Q in Encino

43 50

POSITIVE PLATES

THE FORAGED PANTRY

Cookbooks that are about more than food

Chef-created items for your pantry

58 52

SPIRITS IN THE LIGHT

ROLLIN’ WITH IT

Artful ways of putting

Dogs served via carhop at

out the good stuff

a north Valley institution

62 NEXT LEVEL

24 AND THEN SOME...

How a Fryman Canyon family created

62

an oasis for entertaining in their backyard

40

70

SUMMER ESSENTIALS

WHERE WEST GREETS EAST

A curated list of items from Westfield

An Arts & Crafts masterpiece

Fashion Square for staying fashionable

with Eastern influences

& cool through Labor Day

74 REAL ESTATE

COVER

Spectacular local listings

photographed by Kara Mickelson

90 LAST WORD Smelling the roses

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EDITOR’S LETTER

For the Love of Food I’m not one of those gals who meal-plans and then hits the

always a fun adventure getting out to dine and sampling new

grocery store with a long list. I’m a “wing it” shopper and

types of cuisines, fusions and twists from local chefs.

cook. Even in the summer, when my veggie garden is raging, I still go to the farmers market every week to pick up colorful,

Food Issue. Our food stylist/photographer Kara Mickelson,

farm-fresh produce. Figs look good? Great! We’ll have figs this

who created our stunning cover, offers some inventive recipe

week. Most nights I look in the fridge, see what looks appetiz-

twists on familiar summer dishes beginning on page 32. We’ve

ing or is about to go bad, and I create a dish. I always have

also got Fortune Southern’s (isn’t that the greatest name for a

several staples in my pantry (recently beefed up due to the

woman who owns a barbecue joint?) new Barbie-Q in Encino,

enlightening article on page 50) and they make my freewheel-

and the decades-old institution Cupid’s Hot Dogs in the north

ing approach quite doable. I rarely touch my beloved cook-

Valley. The two sisters who own Cupid’s became a social media

books anymore. If I do follow a recipe, it’s typically from the

sensation when their roller-skating video on “carhop night”

New York Times online subscription service NYT Cooking. Their

went viral this past year. For those of you who wonder what

recipes—often from well-known chefs and restaurants around

impact it has on a business when your TikTok video gets 8 mil-

the world—rarely disappoint.

lion views: “Not much really,” says Morgan Walsh, one of the

Whether in a Michelin-starred eatery or a bona fide dive,

to business as usual.” Kind of surprising to me, but so much

can’t stand it when restaurants are too noisy for conversation

about social media is smoke and mirrors.

Speaking of surprises, after reading Joshua Lurie’s article on

operating room. The third: when you are eating in a group and

Jewish delis (page 24), I was taken aback to learn that all of

someone announces, “I’m going to order for the table!” I nev-

the Jerry’s Famous Delis in the Valley are now closed, as well

er understand that one. I am not a child; we are not in faraway

as several other delis. Josh writes a compelling piece on the

land where you are a native. Whether appetizers or main dish,

challenges these eateries face amid a fad-loving and some-

why would I want or need you to order food that I am going to

times fickle customer base—and what they are doing to keep it

eat and pay for? Everyone at the table always politely mumbles

interesting and attract new customers.

“Oh, sure.” But I’ll bet they too would prefer to order what

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sisters. “We had a slight uptick at first, but now it’s leveled out

I also enjoy eating out—pet peeves aside. The main two: I and when lighting is super bright, creating a vibe akin to an

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That said, we cover all those aspects of dining in this annual

Here’s to enjoying the rest of your summer—culinary and

looks appetizing to them. Those little grumbles aside, it is

otherwise.

Follow me on Instagram @she_sez

Linda Grasso, Editor-in-Chief

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AUGUST 2021 SISTER CAPER Serving up dogs on skates— and that’s just the beginning.

For more, go to page 52.

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the bee whisperer IT MAY BE TRENDY—AND FOR SOME, A BIT WOO-WOO—BUT BEEKEEPING IS A 10,000-YEAR-OLD CRAFT, WITH MEDICINAL, ECOLOGICAL AND CULINARY BENEFITS. ONE MAN IN CHATSWORTH IS MAKING IT HIS MISSION TO CREATE BUZZ ABOUT IT. Written by Anne M. Russell | Photographed by Michael Becker

Jen McDonald and Keith Roberts

“If you’re going to work with bees, you need to look at the bee as more than a flying stinger,” says Keith Roberts, chief beekeeper and co-owner of The Valley Hive.

“You’re participating in an ancient and arcane craft.”

help with beekeeping.”

With the opening of The Valley Hive, that dream was realized, and the business was quickly embraced by the Valley’s home-based beekeeping and bee enthusiast communities. The Hive sells apiary supplies like hives, smokers, and bee suits as well as whimsical bee-related gifts that include bee-emblazoned aprons, towels, doormats, and coffee mugs sporting slogans like “Bee Wild” and “Bee Sweet.” The shop also sells an array of honey, pollen, and beeswax products, sourced from the Hive’s own

If you head north on Topanga Canyon Boulevard,

200 colonies.

almost to the famous Stoney Point rocks in Chatsworth, you’ll find Keith, a guy who has made it his mission to

THE HIVE MINDSET

spread awareness that bees are so much more than just

“Beekeeping is one of the fastest-growing hobbies,” ex-

nasty stingers or honey makers.

plains Keith, citing several reasons. “There’s a return to

In 2014, Keith and his business partner Danny

the joy of growing your own food, and having a hive helps

Finkelstein founded The Valley Hive, which shares space

with that from a pollination standpoint. Then there’s

with a bustling plant haven that they also own, Topanga

learning to make candles and lip balms and salves and

Nursery. While the on-site beehive area is at the rear of

being able to enjoy honey made by your own bees. And

the nursery (a safe distance from where customers browse

all the news about the collapse of bees has led people to

among the plants), everywhere you look, the nursery’s

want to know more about them. The best way to know

plants are abuzz with the Hive’s honeybees. To some, it

them is to keep them.” The beekeeper says the Hive’s cli-

may seem a bit intimidating, but the bees are nothing to

entele represents the whole range of Valley dwellers. “It’s

fear, says Keith—he calls them “nice” bees. And that’s not

all walks of life—young and old, male and female.” The

just a proud parent’s idle brag: Honeybees are bred to be

youngest beekeeper he works with is 10 years old.

docile so that they can be handled safely by beekeepers and minimize any threat to the surrounding community.

Keith’s infatuation with bees was sudden and seren-

With the pandemic restrictions lifted, Keith has resumed in-person teaching at the Hive, including the popular one-day Beekeeper Experience, where visitors

dipitous: In 2007, at a friend’s insistence, he visited the

suit up and handle the honey-laden frames that hang in-

LA County Fair, where he found himself deeply bored by

side a hive. For more serious beekeepers, there’s Intro to

the sheep and goats. But then, he says, “I saw an obser-

Beekeeping. He’s also developing a certification program

vation hive encased in glass, and I fell head over heels in

and hopes to offer a satellite beekeeping curriculum in

love.” He hung around the booth, run by the 148-year-

conjunction with UCLA.

old Los Angeles County Beekeepers Association, peppering them with questions.

In 2009, he kicked off a business that removed swarm-

A TASTE OF HONEY In November, Keith hopes to restart the annual honey

ing honeybee colonies from private property and relo-

tasting competitions the Hive hosted in past years. When

cated them. But his dream was “to create a business that

last held in 2019, the taste-off included 57 entries from

would help urban beekeepers and teach the community

various Southland apiaries. As a honey connoisseur, he

at large. I realized there was no place in the Valley to get

is adamant: “When it comes to real, raw, local honey,

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The Buzz HONEYBEES BY THE NUMBERS

there’s no bad honey. There’s just different honey.”

As bee aficionados are quick to point out, it’s important to choose the correct honey for your purpose: aromatic

2 million

sage honey to flavor tea, and robust, dark, avocado honey

Commercial pollinator bees in the U.S.

for barbecue sauce, for example. Longtime employee Jen

60,000

McDonald, who collects honey recipes, waxes rhapsodic about earthy buckwheat honey on pancakes and creamy cinnamon honey in coffee.

Many of the Hive’s customers believe that the raw, unfiltered honey and pollen the company sells convey medicinal benefits, including combatting pollen allergies.

Keith, who has a scientific bent, is somewhat skeptical, pointing out, “You don’t know if the pollen you’re allergic to is going to be in there.” However, he does believe in the superiority of raw honey’s taste and authenticity—that is, honey that hasn’t been filtered to remove pollen and other natural compounds such as antioxidants, enzymes, and minerals. (It is, however, sieved to get rid of dead bee parts and other impurities.)

Grocery store honey, on the other hand, has usually been heated to a high temperature—pasteurized—and filtered, removing some or all the natural compounds.

The benefit to this processing is mostly aesthetic, since it makes the honey appear clearer and keeps it from crystalizing longer.

Average number of bees in a hive

3–5 miles Distance worker bees travel from hive to forage

4 lbs

Flower nectar needed to make a single pound of honey

2–5 years Lifespan of the queen bee

3–6 weeks Lifespan of worker honeybees

“If you don’t know your beekeeper, you don’t know about the honey,” says Keith, somewhat ominously, going on to describe 2013’s Honeygate as “the worst food scandal in history.” Primarily a financial ploy that crashed world honey prices, Honeygate also revealed that some illegally imported Chinese honey contained residual banned antibiotics. Other investigations found that some had been adulterated with rice syrup.

He promises that if you take the leap into home bee-

1/2 teaspoon Quantity of honey a worker bee produces in her life

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Average number of male bees who mate with queen bee

keeping, you are guaranteed a singular experience. “The honey will be unlike any honey you’ve ever had,” he says. “Because it’s your honey, from your bees, from the flowers in your neighborhood. There won’t be a honey anywhere on the planet that is quite like it.” ■

2,000 Eggs laid each day by queen bee

40% Hives that die each year in U.S. from various stressors

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in a pickle THE CLOSURE OF SEVERAL LOCAL LONGTIME JEWISH DELIS—INCLUDING ALL JERRY’S FAMOUS DELIS—HAS SOME WONDERING ABOUT THE FATE OF THE RESTAURANT GENRE, WHICH CARRIES ON RICH ASHKENAZI CULINARY TRADITIONS. HOW SOME DELI OWNERS ARE DIGGING IN AND COMING UP WITH NEW RECIPES FOR SURVIVAL. Written by Joshua Lurie Photographed by Shane O’Donnell

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During the ’90s and up until about 2010, you couldn’t walk into a Jerry’s Famous Deli in the Valley at breakfast

Jonathan Mitchell, CEO of Mitchell Hospitality Investments, LLC, started acquiring shares of the deli in 2000, ultimately taking complete ownership. He was running the chain with his daughter Mandy until it shut

or lunchtime without seeing a line:

down. He cited several factors as to what went wrong.

people queueing up to grab a table or

In his opinion, it was “government-imposed wage and

pick up takeout. The delicatessen’s

workers’ compensation regulations, building department and other regulatory agency delays and demands,

success was about more than just

unbearable fees and taxes, and poor handling of the pan-

comfort food. Sure, they served mile-

demic by state and local officials.” Even pre-pandemic,

high Reuben sandwiches and chicken breast-packed matzo ball soup— but there was also a vibe. Jerry’s just buzzed. If it wasn’t a celebrity

he wasn’t satisfied with business, saying, “The risks of operating the restaurant were simply too high for the anemic return.”

Jonathan says he’s open to a possible return to their old Studio City address if and when the landlord redevelops the property. “We would love to revive Jerry’s, but the

sighting, you could spot the “it”

likelihood of our doing so in California is slim,” he says.

studio executive of the moment sitting

“We’re hoping to reorganize and operate in other areas.”

Nevertheless, Jonathan is still bullish on delis. “There’s

in the booth next to you—if you were

a definite need for Jewish delis in LA,” he says. “While

dining at the Studio City location near

they may not be as fashionable in the way they ran in

CBS Studio Center and Warner Bros.

the mid- and even late 20th century” they can be very

In recent years, Jerry’s success started waning. The

relevant today if they adapt to today’s customer wants.

Healthier menu choices and reformulations of historical

first deli to go: the location near Cedar-Sinai Medical

deli fare to suit current trends will definitely contribute to

Center, in 2013. Three years later the Woodland Hills spot

sustaining the deli business. Of course, a few traditional

shut down. Then in the middle of the pandemic, their two

items must always be available.”

other Valley hubs, Encino and Studio City, went dark.

The Valley has endured other losses. Solley’s on Van

Deli news isn’t all dire. Art’s Deli, Brent’s Deli, Famous

brought two more closures: Weiler’s in Northridge, which

Label’s Delicatessen and Uncle Bernie’s Deli all survived

shut down after 57 years in business, and Marv’s Deli in

the pandemic and continue to offer menus that don’t just

Valley Village. Still, Jerry’s Famous Deli may have been

appeal to the area’s large Jewish community, but to the

the biggest surprise.

community as a whole.

Starting in 1978, Jerry Seidman and Isaac “Ike”

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In Tarzana, Mort Medway founded Mort’s Deli in 1968.

Starkman grew a humble bagel delivery business into a

Lana Pavlick, who started as an employee there 37 years

bustling chain, beginning with the Studio City location.

ago, became the owner in 2012, carrying on endur-

Over the years that outlet became a Boulevard mainstay.

ing traditions next to Bea’s Bakery. Iconic posters line

Isaac’s son Guy Starkman took over the reins as CEO

26

STILL HERE: MORT’S

Nuys Boulevard departed Sherman Oaks in 2015. 2019

Mort’s walls, including The New Yorker cover depicting

after his father passed away from a heart attack in 2008

Manhattan as the center of the universe. People still enjoy

at age 70.

Reubens and matzo brei in green cushioned booths.

Clockwise from this photo: smoked salmon platter at Uncle Bernie’s; a cook takes a turkey out of the oven; the scene at Uncle Bernie’s

Clockwise from upper left: the “Zoltan” Reuben sandwich at Lovi’s Deli; the father-son team of Brian and Alex Lovi; a platter of cookies at Lovi’s

Lana describes business before COVID-19 as “very good.” During the pandemic, she managed to retain most of her staff, defying the odds. “It really didn’t pay the bills, but I stayed open the whole time,” Lana says.

Like most delis, Mort’s must contend with skyrocket-

became a food connoisseur, especially of Jewish food, because that’s what they learned to do.”

Alex originally worked as a lawyer for a Century City firm. After his father suffered a massive heart attack, he took leave to drive his dad to work at Country Deli. He

ing meat prices—particularly tough for a restaurant that

ended up enjoying the deli business more than law, so he

relies on prodigious proteins like pastrami and corned

stayed. Alex partnered with his cousin, also named David

beef. Lana recently had to raise prices and eliminate

Lovi, after his father passed away.

lunch and dinner specials, which, so far, customers have

At Lovi’s Deli, Alex focuses on Eastern European Jewish

handled well. “I’m trying to play catch-up here,” she

dishes like Romanian skirt steak, chicken noodle soup

says. Lana remains hopeful about delis, but acknowledg-

made with his mother’s recipe, and the Zoltan, a Reuben

es, “There seem to be fewer and fewer of them.”

variation his father inspired that combines New York black pastrami and corned beef. The Lovis also offer sal-

STILL HERE: LOVI’S

ads for lighter eaters, including a popular Chinese chicken

At Lovi’s Deli in Calabasas, a white dining tent popped up

salad they’ve served for over 40 years.

in a spacious parking lot in response to COVID-19, en-

Son Brian is now general manager for all three delis

abling the deli to keep a healthy customer flow and steady

after completing his own stint as a Century City lawyer.

business. Inside, past a flower-filled patio, cases offer

When Alex’s cousin died, he carried a heavy load. “I could

options like knishes, cinnamon rolls and pies. Lovi Lounge

see the stress taking a toll on him,” Brian says. He of-

sports bar is to the right, a dining room on the left.

fered to help out his father and never left. He quotes The

David Lovi and his cousin started with a food market in Mid-City before opening Country Deli in Chatsworth in 1979. The late duo added Agoura’s Famous Deli in Agoura

Godfather, joking, “Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!”

In many cases, restaurants close because there isn’t a

Hills in 1995. David’s son Alex now runs both delis with

next generation to jump in, or that generation chooses

his older sister, Nurit. Lovi’s in Calabasas is the family’s

different careers. Lovi’s Deli has a succession plan in

latest restaurant, which Alex debuted in 2014. He was

place. “The only reason I feel this restaurant will survive

originally going to call it Calabasas Deli, but a manager

is because of Brian and my sister, Nurit,” Alex says.

suggested using the family name. “I’m glad I put Lovi’s

“They love the business. God forbid something happens

in honor of my father,” Alex says. “Not even the Nazis

to me, they’ll be able to continue.” Daughter Jessica is

killed our name. Everyone on the 101 sees it, the legacy of

also involved.

my father’s survival in a concentration camp.”

Alex’s father suffered horrific losses in Auschwitz

Alex describes himself as “semiretired,” yet he works six days a week. “It’s a very demanding business,” he

during World War II, including both parents and several

says. “If you didn’t love it, you won’t be in the deli busi-

siblings. David returned to Romania and later started

ness, or in any restaurant business. If you’re not hands-

a family. He received permission from the Communist

on, usually any business will fail. Especially a deli where

Party to have Alex’s bar mitzvah in Israel, where many

people love to say hi to you. It’s like Cheers. They want to

family members had already emigrated. Instead of re-

come in, see how you’re doing, and schmooze with you.

turning to Romania, they left everything behind to join

It’s all about family and relationships.”

Nurit in LA in 1970.

“He always had a love for food because there was never food to eat in concentration camps,” Alex says. “He

Before the pandemic, Lovi family delis were all successful. COVID-19 posed unprecedented challenges, but they’ve all survived. “No restaurant and no deli survives

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29

unless you have support from the community,” Alex says.

Now Simon runs Weiler’s West Hills Deli and Frank runs

“We’ve been blessed to have wonderful support.”

the original restaurant.

Alex cites last November, when California completely

Both delis spotlight Jewish classics like cabbage soup,

shut down on-site dining for about two months, as a

pastrami melts, and herring marinated with sour cream

particularly brutal stretch. “It was an awful experi-

and onions, though they do serve many non-Jewish items.

ence that I will never forget,” he says. “I decided to

According to Simon, Weiler’s West Hills Deli was

keep everybody fully paid even though I was losing huge

performing well before the pandemic. Business dipped 50

amounts of money. That’s why today, while most people

to 60% at one point, but it’s now rebounding. “After this

can’t find cooks, servers, or whatever, we’re pretty well

pandemic is over, probably business will be as usual be-

staffed. I also allowed all my staff to take free food home

cause we have salads and burgers—a variety of foods—so

to feed their families.”

it’s popular with every kind of crowd,” Simon says.

Brian stresses the importance of staying current.

“The biggest challenge is fast-food places,” Simon

“What sold in the ’80s at old-school delis doesn’t sell

says. “Also, people eat healthier these days. If you want

anymore,” he says. “You’ve got to evolve.” They point to

pastrami or corned beef, and don’t want to eat healthy,

dishes like the Jessica Salad, made with grilled sesame-

then you go for pastrami or corned beef. The trend of

marinated chicken breast, avocado, dried cranberries,

eating between young people and old people is changing,

tortilla strips, Gorgonzola cheese and baby greens.

because the younger ones go for tacos and sushi.”

Another strategy at Lovi’s: differentiation. During the

One of the biggest challenges is the lack of young

pandemic, Lovi’s also launched José Goldstein’s Mexican

diners. “We depend on older customers, but if they pass

Grill, a takeout and delivery concept that centers on

away, it’s hard to replace those loyal customers,” he says.

tacos, burritos and breakfast items. The duo bet on José

Still, he’s optimistic about his deli and Jewish delis in

Goldstein’s to supplement revenue while drawing on

general, saying, “That’s why I’m still here.”

their kitchen’s strong Mexican American contingent. Chef Fernando Lanuza and other longtime employees have

NEWCOMERS

worked with Alex for more than 20 years. Alex jokes,

There is evidence that indicates that the Jewish deli genre

“Once you check in, you don’t check out.”

is still alive and well. Other parts of LA have seen some noteworthy Jewish deli openings in recent years. There’s

STILL HERE: WEILER’S

Daughter’s Deli from Trisha Langer in West Hollywood,

The Mesriani brothers have also made a big impact on the

Freedman’s from Jonah Freedman in Echo Park (currently

Valley’s Jewish deli landscape. In 1979, Simon Mesriani

on hiatus) and Wexler’s Deli, with locations in Santa

and brother Frank were in England studying metallurgy

Monica and Grand Central Market.

and mechanical engineering, respectively. The brothers

over the past decade, the Lovis believe Jewish delis aren’t

Khomeini took control in Iran, the Mesrianis moved to LA

particularly unique, and that the key to continued success

rather than return home to face possible persecution as

is pretty basic. “I don’t think a Jewish delicatessen faces

Iranian Jews. They first ran an Italian deli in Hollywood

anything more to stay relevant than another restaurant

and later bought Frank Weiler’s Deli in 1983 from

does,” Brian says. “You’ve just got to provide good food,

founder Larry Weiler, keeping the name. After the 1994

good service, beautiful ambience, and if you are your

Northridge earthquake, they replaced a damaged Italian

best, the results come naturally.” ■

restaurant with Weiler’s West Hills Deli on Sherman Way.

30

|

Brian Lovi isn’t really surprised. In light of the closures

only worked in those fields for one year. After Ayatollah

Clockwise from upper left: Simon Mesriani at Weiler’s West Hills Deli; a platter of meat knish; Weiler’s matzo ball soup

summer swaps MIX UP YOUR MENU WITH CREATIVE SPINS ON CLASSIC DISHES. Produced & photographed by Kara Mickelson

SUMMER FRUIT SHORTCAKE Serves 2 Avoid the heat of the oven on a hot day with these

while cooking. Carefully remove (ramekin will be

gluten-free honey almond cornmeal biscuits. They can

very hot). Place on a wire rack to cool for 1 minute

be whipped up in a jiffy using a microwave. Add fresh

before unmolding. Repeat cooking steps for second

seasonal fruit for a delicious dessert in minutes.

ramekin. Biscuits can be made one day in advance.

Cool and store wrapped or covered under refrigera-

½ cup blanched almond flour

tion. Heat for 15 to 20 seconds in the microwave

¼ cup cornmeal

before serving.

2 teaspoons baking powder

Slice biscuits, creating a top and a bottom, and

pinch kosher salt

place on plates or a platter. With a pastry brush,

2 large eggs, beaten

brush liqueur on the top of the biscuit base. Spoon a

2 tablespoons mild olive or vegetable oil

teaspoon of apricot jam on the base of each biscuit

2 tablespoons honey, plus extra to drizzle

or drizzle with honey.

1½ teaspoons almond extract

Add sliced strawberries on top of biscuits.

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

Arrange the rest of the fruit on the plate or platter

2 teaspoons Frangelico liqueur (optional)

surrounding the biscuits. Top each biscuit base with

2 teaspoons apricot jam (optional)

a large dollop of Honey Yogurt Whipped Cream. Add

½ cup fresh sliced strawberries

the top biscuit and drizzle with more honey.

1 nectarine, seeded and sliced into small wedges ½ cup Rainier cherries, seeded

Honey Yogurt Whipped Cream

Honey Yogurt Whipped Cream

¾ cup heavy whipping cream, cold 2 tablespoons plain unsweetened Greek yogurt

In a small bowl, whisk together almond flour, corn-

1 to 2 tablespoons honey

meal, baking powder and salt until thoroughly combined. Add eggs, oil, honey, and almond and vanilla

Whip cream until soft peaks form. Whip in yogurt

extracts to the dry ingredients. Mix completely. Fill

and honey. Add more honey to taste. Continue

2 (4-inch) ramekins with equal amounts of batter.

whipping until stiff peaks form. Make up to 1 day

Place one ramekin in the microwave and heat on

in advance and store covered in refrigerator. Whisk

high for approximately 1 minute. The batter will rise

briefly before serving.

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|

GRILLED TUNA FISH & CHIPS Serves 4 Fire up the grill for this healthy take on fish & chips. At

and place on top rack of grill to keep warm until all

the risk of fishing for compliments, we think you will love

potatoes are cooked.

this seafood swap.

Start tuna steaks after fries have cooked for 25 minutes. Dry tuna steaks with paper towels to

2 large russet potatoes

remove any moisture. Rub each side of steaks with

¼ cup salt

olive oil and season generously with salt and pep-

¼ cup vegetable oil (such as grapeseed or safflower)

per. Grill tuna without turning for 3½ minutes or

2 teaspoons kosher salt

until grill marks are visible. Flip steaks and cook

2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper

another 2½ to 3½ minutes.

4 tuna steaks

Top each steak with an equal amount of crushed

extra-virgin olive oil

coriander seeds and a teaspoon of Olive Butter

3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

(recipe below). Finish cooking until an internal

3 teaspoons freshly ground pepper, divided

temperature reads 125º to 130º if you have sushi-

2 tablespoons crushed coriander seeds

grade tuna and like it rare, or 140º to 145º if you

Olive Butter

like it medium to well done. Transfer to a serving

3 small lemons & 1 small lime, cut into wedges

plate. Squeeze a wedge of lemon juice and place a slice of Olive Butter on top. Serve with baked fries

To make the fries, heat grill to medium high (450º).

and citrus wedges on the side.

Lightly oil a large cast-iron skillet and place a sheet tray near the grill for cooked fries. Cut potatoes

Olive Butter

lengthwise into batons that are ¼-inch thick and

1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, room temp

3½-inches long. Place potatoes in a bowl of water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

to cover. Add ¼ cup salt and stir with your hands

2 garlic cloves, minced

to release the starch. Chill in refrigerator for 20

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

minutes or overnight.

¼ cup sliced green olives, seedless

Drain potatoes and dry well with paper towels.

Place in a bowl or plastic bag and drizzle with oil

1 tablespoon rough-chopped parsley leaves 1 tablespoon rough-chopped oregano leaves

to coat. Sprinkle with salt and ground pepper. Mix

34

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ingredients to evenly coat potatoes. Place potatoes

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Place in

in oiled skillet, leaving space in between potatoes

refrigerator for 30 minutes or until slightly firm.

so they don’t steam. (Cook in batches if necessary.)

Remove and place on a sheet of parchment paper

Cook potatoes for 30–35 minutes or until light

or plastic wrap. Roll into a 2-inch by 4-inch log

golden brown and crispy on the edges. Flip fries

and place into refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Butter

with a spatula only if they are getting too crispy on

can be made two days in advance if stored tightly

the bottom. Transfer cooked fries to a sheet tray

wrapped in refrigerator.

FRUIT & NUT BREAKFAST PORRIDGE Serves 2 (10-ounce bowls) In place of oatmeal, try this grain- and dairy-free breakfast

½ cup watermelon, cut in 1-inch cubes

porridge. It’s light yet filling and chock-full of high-fiber fruits,

1 can light coconut milk

warm coconut milk and crunchy tropical nuts … like sunshine

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

in a bowl!

1 banana, cut in 1-inch cubes (optional) ½ teaspoon fresh ginger, peeled, chopped or grated

1 large ripe mango, peeled, seeded & cubed 6 dried plums, pitted

Place all ingredients into a medium saucepot. Heat to a

2 Medjool dates, seeded

simmer. Remove from heat and ladle equal amounts of

8 macadamia nuts or Brazil nuts

the porridge into the bowls.

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41

A master class for the modern woman.

The SheSez Podcast Available wherever you listen

More at SheSez.com Follow @she_sez

Positive Plates COOKBOOKS THAT SERVE UP HAPPINESS FOR THE STOMACH AND SOUL Curated by Darren Elms

JUST THE GOOD STUFF

LOVE IS SERVED

By Rachel Mansfield

By Seizan Dreux Ellis

EAT CALIFORNIA: VIBRANT RECIPES FROM THE WEST COAST

Rachel Mansfield’s colorful debut cookbook

Before it was a fixture on the LA dining

By Vivian Lui

proves that living a healthy lifestyle doesn’t

scene and a magnet for celebrity diners,

mean adhering to extreme diets or giving

Café Gratitude was founded in the Bay Area

California has a lot going for it: a laid-back

up all the foods you crave. Using better-

with the simple ethos that you can derive

lifestyle, golden beaches and a vibrant food

for-you ingredients, such as grain-free

joy from being grateful for food, health and

culture. The seafood is fresh, the produce

flours, collagen peptides and coconut sugar,

good company. With Love is Served, Seizan

organic and plentiful, and the farmers mar-

she shares with readers how to maintain

Dreux Ellis, executive chef at Café Gratitude,

kets are a wealth of riches all year-round.

a balanced approach to eating. Perfect for

aspires to bring quality meals to your table,

But beyond our impressive range of produce,

those who are new to cooking or learning

incorporating the soul of the restaurant in

the state’s cultural diversity means find-

how to incorporate healthy ingredients into

your home. With unfussy methods and easy-

ing vendors hawking handmade tacos next

their everyday lives, Just the Good Stuff in-

to-access ingredients, this cookbook aims to

to a bustling Korean barbecue restaurant. As

cludes an entire chapter on food prep (saves

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the recipes in this cookbook prove, it is our

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genuine love of food—preparing it, eating it

building tips as well as inspirational advice.

and sharing it—that fuels positive energy in kitchens and around tables.

|

43

THE SAUCE

The Spice of Life Fortune Southern wants to introduce you to barbecue like she enjoyed growing up. More on page 46.

THE SAUCE

Make It Hot CHERISHED FAMILY RECIPES ENJOYED BACK IN HER HOMETOWN OF CLEVELAND ARE THE FOUNDATION OF FORTUNE SOUTHERN’S NEW EATERY, BARBIE-Q IN ENCINO. Written by Jean Trinh | Photographed by Nikki Smith

Fortune Southern’s earliest memories in the kitchen were the large holiday parties her parents used to host when

DiMuzio, who previously operated his own food truck.

guests, and Southern would try her best to be her mom’s

Her mother, who’s now 63, still helps out a little. And

sous chef. It wasn’t until she got to college that she got

Fortune says business has been “really, really good.”

“Every day I show up to this restaurant, whether I’m

Southern opened a place of her own: Barbie-Q restaurant

in a good mood (or not), I’ll take time to thank God,

in Encino.

because I have to look back to where I came from and the

“The food that I have on my menu is what stuck out to me and what I liked the most,” says Fortune, 33.

Her menu is an amalgamation of her family’s recipes, her own creations and nods to her hometown. Barbie-Q features smoked and grilled meats like baby back ribs and pulled pork, all tied together by her grandmother’s secret sweet-and-tangy barbecue sauce recipe. Her mac ‘n’ cheese and baked beans are just like she had as a kid.

And then there’s the Cleveland staple: the Polish Boy, a kielbasa stuffed into a toasted hoagie, covered in fries, coleslaw and barbecue sauce. She also makes her own twist; the Polish Girl is stacked high with sweet potato fries, slaw and maple aioli.

“I actually get a lot of customers coming in from Cleveland just to get the Polish Boy,” Fortune says.

Up until this point, Fortune had been operating a food truck with her mother, Susan Southern, for years. She says it wasn’t an easy feat for a Black woman in a maledominated space. But she paid her dues and eventually found her footing.

Then she hit a bump in the road. All the events she had lined up with her truck got canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

“At that point, I decided I had two choices: I could either give up and lose everything I had worked for, or go ahead and take that leap and transfer into a restaurant,

|

She launched Barbie-Q with her husband, Adam

she was growing up in Cleveland. They’d serve over 100

a rhythm for it. And it wasn’t until last November that

46

which was my dream,” Fortune says.

steps that were taken to get here. It feels like a miracle,” Fortune says. ■

|

47

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LA’s Best Kept Secret, Located on Beverly Glen & Mulholland!

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THE SAUCE

The Foraged Pantry

Gino Angelini opened his eatery on Beverly Boulevard 20 years ago and today Angelini Osteria is still packing ’em in. Craving his sauce but don’t feel like going out? You’re in luck. Jars of his famed classic marinara, arrabbiata and creamy lemon parmesan can be picked up at grocery stores like Gelson’s and Pavilions as well as on Amazon.

GO OFF-ROAD WITH YOUR PANTRY PURCHASES THIS SUMMER, SELECTING ITEMS CREATED BY CALIFORNIA CHEFS THAT GIVE FAMILIAR DISHES UNEXPECTED TWISTS. Written by Heather Platt Photographed by Nikki Smith

Chef Spencer Bezaire launched his heavy, charred-pepper hot sauce, made with locally farmed produce, to help keep his

Chef Jordan Kahn of Vespertine makes and

Silver Lake restaurant Eszett afloat during

sells coveted pantry items for his daytime

the pandemic. Now Eszett has reopened

café/shop Destroyer, like this organic apple

and, well, the hot sauce is still hot; $20,

vinegar infused with foraged Mexican

sbezhotsauce.com.

marigold leaves. It is great for upgrading salad dressings, shrub cocktails and sauces; $12, destroyer.la.

50

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Oakland-based SugarRoti provides organic,

Chef Craig Thornton of the underground

pre-measured, single-use Indian spice-

event dinner series Wolvesmouth has

blend packets, with recommended recipes.

partnered with cofounder Fred Michaels to

The goal is to provide home cooks with

launch Howl, a line of chef-driven, plant-

do-it-yourself Indian meals in under an

based foods. Their vegan cashew mac and

hour—everything from butter chicken to

cheese, available in Classic Cashew and

chai muffins; $8.99, sugarroti.com.

Spicy Chipotle, is available at Whole Foods, Thrive Market and eathowl.com.

Developed by LA-based chef Diep Tran, Red Boat recently launched Kho Sauce, a readyto-use combination of the brand’s familyrecipe fish sauce, shallots and ginger. The sauce is intended for braising fish, pork and poultry for Vietnamese dishes like thit kho This bottle of the crunchy spicy trendy oil comes from acclaimed pastry chef Max

trung (braised pork belly with egg); $8.95, redboatfishsauce.com. ■

Boonthanakit—formerly at Nightshade in Downtown LA (currently closed due to the pandemic). Boon Sauce is an homage to his Thai/Chinese background, and its habitforming tang has garnered a cult following; $18, boonsauce.com.

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51

THE SAUCE

Rollin’ With It DURING THE PANDEMIC, WHEN THE GOING GOT ROUGH AT CUPID’S HOT DOGS, ITS THIRD-GENERATION OWNERS REFUSED TO LET THE 75-YEAR-OLD FAMILY BUSINESS GO BY THE WAYSIDE. INSTEAD, THE SISTERS PUT WHEELS IN MOTION. Written by Jean Trinh | Photographed by Michael Becker

In February, Morgan Walsh posted a TikTok video of herself and her sister Kelly roller skating through the

father. “He did not want to give her a ketchup dog back

The clip, set to Fleetwood Mac’s “Dreams,” went so viral

then, and then at some point, they finally lucked out.”

The one-minute video was filmed during the de-

After their grandmother died in the early 1980s, their father, Rick, took over the business as the second-genera-

but weekend of the sisters’ new carhop service at the

tion owner. Rick dared to add ketchup, cheese and relish to

Vanowen Street location of their family’s 75-year-old

the menu, and he also launched their Simi Valley location.

business. The carhop service, which takes place on

Morgan and Kelly remember their father as a long-

Thursdays from 3 to 7 p.m., was a byproduct of the pan-

haired surfer who always sported a polo shirt, gold chains

demic and Morgan’s love for roller skating. The duo was

and a Members Only jacket. He had a penchant for bowl-

finally able to repave their parking lot, which hadn’t had

ing and driving muscle cars.

a makeover since the 1960s, and took their wheels out for a spin.

Kelly recalls hosting roller hockey parties in their Winnetka parking lot when she was young, showing off

“It’s taken off ever since,” Morgan, 33, says.

their restaurant to friends. The sisters would help at

Cupid’s Hot Dogs has been a fixture of the Valley

catering gigs and hand out sodas.

since the sisters’ grandparents Richard and Bernice

They never planned on taking over Cupid’s, though.

Walsh launched their first restaurant in 1946. The name

When their father died suddenly in 2009, the sisters, who

was a nod to their nicknames: Richard was “Stupid”

were in their 20s at the time, were thrust into the family

and Bernice was “Cupid.” The couple ran their North

business. “We knew how to make hot dogs and I knew

Hollywood, Van Nuys and Canoga Park outposts for

how to run the register, but we didn’t know anything be-

nearly four decades.

yond that,” Morgan says. “It was sort of like, ‘Your dead

Although Kelly and Morgan never met their grandparents, they’ve been able to piece together parts of

dad’s payrolls are due on Monday, like, figure it out.’”

They struggled in the beginning but have since found

their history through stories from family and longtime

their stride. The third-generation owners have been

customers. Richard was known to be strict when it came

running their two remaining locations in Winnetka and

to his dogs, and only served them just one way for years:

Simi Valley for the past 12 years. (Cupid’s Northridge and

with mustard, onions and chili.

Chatsworth spots are now licensed to other owners.)

Morgan recalls an elderly Cupid’s regular telling her

|

“He was very against it,” Morgan says of her grand-

parking lot of their Cupid’s Hot Dogs stand in Winnetka. that it amassed 8 million views.

52

met with resistance.

Kelly handles their company’s paperwork and bookkeep-

that when she was a child and went to the original stand,

ing, while Morgan directs social media and events. They

she wanted a hot dog with just ketchup. That request was

have kept the menu simple, but added their own touches,

Morgan hands Kelly a tray of hot dogs at the pass-through window.

“I FEEL LIKE WE’RE GOING STRONG, AND PROUD THAT WE’RE ABLE TO CONTINUE OUR FAMILY TRADITION—AND THAT WE AREN’T THE ONES TO SCREW IT UP.” like sauerkraut, and Chicago-style and veggie dogs.

While putting their own stamp on the business, the sisters are mindful about connecting the present with Cupid’s nostalgic past. A few years ago, they launched Cruise Nights, an event that takes place every last Saturday of the month until October, from 4 to 7 p.m. at the Winnetka stand. They have bands come out to play, classic cars line the sidewalk, and people eat hot dogs in the parking lot.

“We hear so many stories of everyone cruising down Van Nuys Boulevard in the ’70s and then going to Cupid’s,” Kelly says. “It gives you that small-town feel where everyone’s just there to eat hot dogs, enjoy the music, look at the cars.”

With the Cruise Nights recently making a comeback after a yearlong hiatus due to the pandemic, and their social media growth bringing in more business (their Instagram @cupids_hotdogs now has 22,000 followers), the Walsh sisters have weathered the storm of the past year.

“I’m just glad we’ve made it to 75,” Morgan says. “I think there were times when we didn’t know if we were going to. I feel like we’re going strong, and proud that we’re able to continue our family tradition—and that we aren’t the ones to screw it up.” ■

F I N A N C I A L & W E A LT H A D V I S O R S

JEFF MUNJACK, CFP®, MSFS Owner/President, JDM Financial Group

WHAT DISTINGUISHES JDM FINANCIAL GROUP? “JDM’s mission—and my mission—is to help clients make smarter financial decisions so that limited financial resources, time and energy yield the greatest possible results in their lives. In our approach there are no sales agendas, no proprietary products and no investment commissions. Our focus is on our clients’ best interests and overall well-being.

We take a holistic approach and work with multiple generations of a family to ensure that the efforts of one generation leave a lasting legacy for generations to come.”

WHY WOULD SOMEONE HIRE A FINANCIAL PLANNER? “Few people have the time, desire and background to adequately address the complex financial questions households face.

These questions intertwine multiple areas of personal finance including tax, investments and pensions. Making smart financial decisions requires expertise in all these areas. A good financial planner not only brings broad personal finance knowledge and planning expertise but also leads a collaboration among a household’s other professional advisors (e.g., CPA and estate planning attorney). In our many years of experience, we have found that adding financial planning expertise improves decision-making across the board.”

DOES JDM FINANCIAL GROUP SPECIALIZE IN A PARTICULAR MARKET NICHE? “Most firms, including ours, have expertise in working with baby boomers to help them prepare for and navigate retirement. However, many of our best clients are Gen Xers and forward-thinking millennials—particularly those who are high-earning professionals or service-sector business owners who want to make smarter financial decisions and plan ahead for their future. Working with these younger professionals requires a broader expertise to address their more complicated financial needs. We’ve really enjoyed helping them get on the right path.”

HOW IS ADVISING GEN X OR MILLENNIAL CLIENTS MORE COMPLICATED? “There are two primary reasons. First, for younger clients, collaborating with them to create a plan for the future can be more difficult because it is harder for young adults to envision retirement and determine their lifestyle preferences in the distant future.

Secondly, for younger professionals, multiple financial goals compete for limited resources, and therefore the challenge of setting priorities adds complexity to the process.

An empty-nest baby boomer has goals that revolve around the narrower question of how to prepare for a comfortable and secure retirement. Thus planning for younger adults usually requires a more extensive understanding of personal finance as well as insight into a greater number of life-cycle issues and stages.”

WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE TO YOUNG ADULTS WHO ARE LOOKING FOR FINANCIAL ADVICE? “The character of a professional is always the most important predictor of the quality and trustworthiness of professional advice. It is also important to investigate the compensation structure of an advisory firm and to inquire whether the firm works exclusively as a fiduciary.

A fiduciary firm must be guided solely by what is in the client’s best interest. If a firm does not operate as a fiduciary, an advisor at that firm may recommend products or strategies to a client that are merely ‘suitable.’

Some financial professionals set themselves up as both, meaning a client may not know whether a given recommendation is sales-motivated or made in their best interest.

Consumers of financial advice should work only with advisors who are fiduciaries.”

WHY SHOULD SUCCESSFUL GEN XERS AND MILLENNIALS CHOOSE YOUR FIRM OVER OTHERS? “JDM is a millennial/Gen X firm. We harbor the same skepticism toward financial services as other young adults do. We know how they want to be treated and want to experience financial advice: client interests first, fees instead of investment commissions, and advice that creates a pathway to achieving real-life goals while reducing stress and anxiety along the way. Unlike their parents, young professionals will have less of a social safety net, and they will need to make smarter financial decisions. Our mission is to help them do just that.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TAMEKA JACOBS

S

ince 1999, financial planner and wealth manager Jeffrey Munjack has provided customized financial plans and guided clients through major life decisions. After several years at a global financial services firm, he founded JDM Financial Group in 2002. As a Certified Financial Planner™ with a master’s degree in financial planning, Jeff’s expertise in personal finance includes investments, tax strategies, insurance and estate planning.

ENCINO | 310-479-4122 | JDMFINANCE.COM

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Spirits in the Light INTERIOR DESIGNER CAREN RIDEAU SHARES HOW TO ARTFULLY DISPLAY SPIRITS IN THE HOME. Styling by Char Hatch-Langos | Photographed by Meghan Beierle-O’Brien

LA-based interior designer Caren Rideau specializes

more. “People are entertaining from their homes and

in designing kitchens, so she’s used to clients say-

having family and friends over more these days. And we

ing they want built-in cabinetry for their booze. But in

want to share in the joy of entertaining with wine and

recent years, Caren has skillfully guided clients toward

specialized drinks,” she notes.

an alternative. Instead of hiding bottles, Caren likes to

Caren recommends thinking of the bar as a station to

display them in artfully designed spaces in and around

assemble on a table or console. Here are some of her tips

the kitchen/or entertaining areas. “I think in today’s cul-

to create a clever setup.

ture, wine and cocktails are an art to pair with food. We celebrate the art when we can see it. And sommelier/wine

BUST OUT THE BOTTLES

stations and bars are back!” she quips.

Think about placing bottles on tabletops in and around

Caren’s aesthetic changed when she started mak-

where guests gather. I like when you can create a bar

ing wine with her partner (in life and business), Andres

with a table or console for entertaining. You can confine

Ibarra, a lifelong vintner. When they launched their label

the bar space with a tray or basket.

Tierra y Vino in Santa Ynez, the designer started rethinking the way she displayed wine.

And the pandemic only incented her to switch it up

BRING OUT THE GOOD STUFF Get out your antique glasses, whether crystal, colored glass

or silver! They are much better with a drink in them rather than just sitting in a cabinet. I especially like using unique glassware with a shot of tequila, good whiskey or aperitif.

BRING IN A BASKET I love containing bottles in a big basket or tray, I think it looks great when you don’t have a specific or designated area for wine. It feels casual and fresh.

MAKE ARRANGEMENTS Use small groupings of bottles, glasses and other attractive collectibles. The idea is to bring a personal touch to the space and create a point of interest.

BLING YOUR BUILT-IN Decorate your built-in to match the mood of guests or the affair. Give the bar some personality. Weave in something that speaks to the occasion or setting (are you indoors or outdoors?). Bring in some fresh flowers, a bowl of citrus or a pretty cloth napkin.

For more on Caren and all her endeavors (which include a monthly newsletter with recipes and wine pairings), go to kitchendesigngroup.com ■

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next level A BACKYARD IN FRYMAN CANYON IS REIMAGINED TO INCLUDE WELL-INTEGRATED OUTDOOR LIVING SPACES THAT MEET THE NEEDS OF ITS BUSY, ACTIVE RESIDENTS. Written by Linda Grasso | Photographed by Shane O’Donnell

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63

“The pergola under the oak trees feels well positioned and the right scale. It gives purpose to the barbecue and pizza oven and makes the space feel like an outdoor room,” says Paul.

The Thorn kids like to hang out with friends around the fire pit. Left to right: Griffin and Cameron Thorn with twin sisters Alianna and Laila Marshall.

When Leslie and Michael Thorn moved into their 1938 Tudor in Fryman Canyon seven years ago, the couple approached the task of renovating with restraint. “My main concern was I didn’t want to take away any of the charm—inside or outside,” Leslie says.

And that included not messing with the mature trees

Leslie Thorn at her Fontana Forni gasoperated pizza oven.

on the property, including several canopying oak trees and a striking redwood. The biggest aspect of the landscape redo: The backyard was essentially a large ravine that made the space nearly impossible to enjoy.

After moving in, the Thorns did a cursory re-landscaping that leveled and filled the backyard, adding a cement seat wall and firepit. But after a few years of living with it, the couple felt the space still lacked cohesiveness and adequate areas for relaxing and entertaining.

With two teenage children, the family is an active one. Michael is president of entertainment at Fox Entertainment. Leslie is an ayurvedic practitioner. “I wanted spaces where we could entertain friends and family and where I could host larger gatherings of women for my practice,” Leslie says.

With that vision in mind, she hired Paul Robbins of the British Garden Company (britishgardencompany.com) in March of 2020. Although he grew up just outside London, Paul says a classic British garden wasn’t in the cards.

“Leslie’s garden couldn’t be farther away from gardens I grew up seeing. There is very different sense of place in Southern California which I have adapted to and appreciate. Horticulturally, it is a different plant palette, too.

I was trained with a good grounding in designing with plants for certain purposes, no matter where the location.

I like to use plants that are easy to care for: olives, pittosporums, jasmine, citrus, bougainvillea. I arrange them in large swaths for ease of maintenance.”

“I AM NOT INTERESTED IN MAKING GARDENS WHICH WOULD DIE WITHOUT CONSTANT WATERING AND A LOT

As for the job at hand (which he did working with landscape installer Pedro Mendoza), Paul pinpoints the challenge: “To make it look sophisticated but not cottage-like, which the architecture leans towards. The color palette set is soft neutrals—ivory, grey, taupe—and I chose materials that felt organic and natural. I wanted a lot of the hardscape elements to soften—almost disappear—and to bring in some patina with cobblestone and gravel, coupled with lots of evergreen plantings.”

Lompoc cobblestone was installed on the back porch

OF MAINTENANCE. IT IS

and steps and in lieu of grass, 24 tons of Lodi gravel was

ALL ABOUT THE NATURE

Works (bybetosironworks.com), provides an intimate space

AROUND AND THE WONDERFUL LIGHT.”

spread throughout. A steel pergola, made by ByBetos Iron for dining. Electric wiring was piped into the structure to allow for pendants, and a bamboo screen shades diners from the sun.

The designer describes the landscaping as “low-water leaning on drought-tolerant,” which complements the oak trees. For privacy hedges, he selected Carolina cherry laurel. “It is softer than ficus if you don’t clip it a lot and it grows almost as quickly.” Other evergreen plant selections: Little Ollie shrubs, pittosporum, blue Ecuador salvia, Hidcote lavender. “The lavender should stay fairly compact. And you get two flushes of blooms, one in spring and one in fall,” Paul says. “And then butting up against the house, I put the evergreen myrtle, also known as myrtus. “It has a small white flower, grows to about three feet and loves heat.”

On a sunny spot adjacent to the backyard, Leslie also has a medicinal herb garden. It’s the icing on the cake to what she considers a job well done. “Every decision Paul made out here just works. In the end, it was everything I’d always pictured for a backyard for this property.”

Paul says the aspect of this job he’s most proud of is the lack of grass and respect paid to the oaks. “I am not interested in making gardens which would die without constant watering and a lot of maintenance. It is all about the nature around and the wonderful light.” ■

Paul Robbins

Terra-cotta pots on the steps, purchased at Goodwin International in Irvine, are filled with lavender, heather and rosemary. Right: Leslie’s medicinal garden. Below: chairs and a pot, both from Big Daddy Antiques‚ beneath an oak tree.

A YEAR LATER

TAKING CARE OF EACH OTHER Terranea Resort welcomes back associates and guests safely and enthusiastically.

WRITTEN BY LAURA L. WATTS

I

t’s been almost a year since Terranea

promotes safety, where guests and employ-

Resort reopened its doors in June 2020,

ees feel confident and comfortable. “Our top

after temporarily closing due to govern-

priority remains the health and well-being

ment mandates concerning the coronavi-

of our guests and associates,” she says. “We

rus pandemic. Over the past year, president

are committed to delivering an optimum

Terri A. Haack and her team have worked

experience, complemented by Terranea’s

diligently to expand and enhance its offerings

high standards of service and care for all of

and to welcome guests back to the 102-acre

our guests.”

luxury resort on the Palos Verdes Peninsula.

Since the resort opened in 2009, its staff

Team members found innovative ways to deliver highly personalized service expe-

“Our top priority remains the health and well-being of our guests and associates.”

has sought to inspire moments of connection

riences with limited contact. Leadership

and extraordinary experiences for guests. As

implemented industry-wide safety initiatives,

they considered their approach for reopen-

standards of care and cleanliness, and staff

Terranea also continues to care for the surround-

ing, team members continued that mission—

training and protocols. They took it a step

ing community, serving as an advocate for its

laying the foundation for a safe and comfort-

further and launched Terranea Promise, a

underprivileged neighbors by supporting local

able experience for all who step foot on the

messaging platform that updates staff and

causes and organizations through programs

oceanfront property.

guests on steps being taken.

and events throughout the year.

Despite reduced leisure travel and unprec-

It’s clear that the leadership of Terranea is

And the Terranea team demonstrates

edented layoffs across all industries, Haack

passionate about making a difference—for its

a high level of stewardship by preserving

led the resort team with impeccable bravery.

guests and also for its associates. Terranea

the pristine natural beauty of the resort’s

Through her outstanding and inspirational

promotes diversity, inclusivity and equity,

valuable coastal resources, showcasing a

leadership, the resort was able to go beyond

and values family, work-life balance and a

Mediterranean aesthetic with design ele-

industry standards and continue to exceed

rewarding workplace environment where all

ments sensitive to the area’s natural envi-

guest expectations, even under unusual

can be TerraneaProud.

ronment. The resort remains committed to

circumstances.

Terranea proudly serves as Palos Verdes

minimizing its environmental footprint by

Peninsula’s largest employer and is commit-

integrating eco-friendly practices, including

ings for guests—including luxurious ameni-

ted to offering an unparalleled workplace

those that protect open space, improve wild-

ties, activities for families to enjoy in-room

culture. While some positions were perma-

life habitats and enhance local water quality.

or at home, meals to go, indoor and outdoor

nently lost due to the pandemic, resort lead-

dining, a variety of wellness offerings at the

ership has already recalled furloughed and

its guests and associates and serving the

spa, the golf course and private adventures.

laid-off employees and will continue to do so

surrounding community, Terranea Resort

“Our team is squarely focused on delivering

moving forward as business levels permit.

continues to set the bar for South Bay busi-

Terranea continues to create unique offer-

From preserving its land to protecting

nesses—as it has since its inception.

extraordinary moments, keeping the health

The resort reached out to its staff during the

and well-being of our guests and associates

temporary closure, hosting food sales for associ-

top of mind,” shares Haack.

ates, donating garden produce to the commu-

Terranea Resort

nity food bank and covering health insurance

100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes

for furloughed team members until reopening.

terranea.com

Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, Terranea has created an environment that

XXXXXXXXXXXX

68

|

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Where West Greets East WHILE THE GAMBLE HOUSE IN PASADENA IS SEEN AS A BASTION OF ARTS AND CRAFTS ARCHITECTURE, IT ALSO REVEALS A DISTINCT JAPANESE INFLUENCE. HERE, A CLOSE LOOK AT WHERE AND HOW THE GREENES—THE ARCHITECT BROTHERS WHO DESIGNED THE GAMBLE—DERIVED THEIR ASIAN INSPIRATION. Written by Dakota Kim | Photographs courtesy of The Gamble House

Upon first glance, you might not notice Japanese influences in the design and architecture of The Gamble

tecture and design as students at MIT—then located in

House, Pasadena’s stately and historical Arts and Crafts

Boston—which they attended from 1888 to 1893. “Indeed,

landmark. But with a guided eye, details come to life,

all over Boston, Japan was in the air, and the Greenes

from a stained glass tree on the front door that resembles

were breathing it,” Bosley says.

a Japanese black pine to the pagoda-like appearance of the low-slung roofs.

|

After their graduation, the Greene brothers proceeded to tour a variety of Japanese design wonders. They at-

Brothers and architectural partners Charles Sumner

tended the 1893 Chicago World’s Columbian Exposition,

Greene (1868–1957) and Henry Mather Greene (1870–

viewing the Ho-o-den, or Phoenix Hall, a scaled-down

1954), who established their esteemed firm Greene &

version of the Ho-o-do Temple in Japan, which inspired

Greene in 1894, designed this National Historic Landmark

what Bosley calls “a generation of Japanese-esque houses

and California Historic Landmark, considered one of the

built in the (Phoenix Hall’s) wake.” In 1894, they visited

finest examples of Arts and Crafts architecture in America.

the Midwinter Exposition in Golden Gate Park, where they

From afar, it is easy to mistake the 8,100-square-foot

70

The Greenes first began learning about Japanese archi-

toured the Japanese Hagiwara Tea Garden. And in 1901,

building for a museum. But Greene & Greene designed

Charles and his wife, Alice, visited the Pan-American

it as a single-family home, built in 1908 for Procter &

International Exposition in Buffalo, New York, where they

Gamble heir David Gamble and his wife, Mary, as a winter

witnessed the Japanese Midway Exhibit.

residence away from their home in Cincinnati. The broth-

As the story goes, Charles was summoned in 1904 by

ers carefully consulted with the couple to add elements of

client Adelaide Tichenor to the St. Louis World’s Fair to

grace and craft, according to Edward R. Bosley, executive

see the building at the Japanese Imperial Garden which,

director of The Gamble House. Those elements include

she shared, was composed of many types of wood.

several Japanese design features, including the small

Supposedly, no two types were from the same tree. “I

pond on the back patio that reinforces the Shinto idea of

do not want you to go on with my home until you see

integration with nature, and the asymmetrical rear view

the Fair,” she wrote to him. “You will be able to get so

that reflects the Buddhist conception of wabi-sabi, or

many ideas of woods and other things for finishing what

finding beauty in the imperfection of nature.

you now have on. It will be impossible for me to describe

The Gamble’s entry features a stained glass tree on the front door that resembles a Japanese black pine.

Top: The facade features low-slung roofs that resemble pagodas.

The dining room at the Gamble House

to you the effect of the woods.” That visit resulted in a Greene-designed structure for Tichenor with clear

ture wasn’t limited to sourcing of building materials.

in harmony, a tile Irimoya roof, and a garden courtyard

Craftsmanship was viewable to the naked eye in the

featuring a half-moon shape.

American Crafts movement, and that was reflected in the exposed outdoor beams that fit perfectly together, but-

House to illustrate how the Greenes were influenced by

tressing outdoor sleeping porches. Beyond the porches,

other wood-building cultures, including China, Korea,

a view of the gardens and landscaping showcased

Switzerland and Japan. From the Douglas fir structural

Japanese-style natural harmony.

timbers to the redwood exterior shingles to the Burmese

|

The Greenes’ inspiration from Japanese architec-

Japanese inspirations: various types of wood coexisting

Bosley points to the wood structures of The Gamble

72

entirely new and beautiful and appropriate,” Bosley notes.

“Where the Greene’s architecture really excels is that

teak panels and mahogany furniture and paneling in the

it did not ignore the landscape around the houses—on

living room, building in wood was a central part of the

the contrary, it was very conscious of it,” Bosley says.

Greenes’ philosophy, as in Japan. “They were influenced

Though clients sometimes complained that it took the

by ancient wood-building cultures, but they were building

Greenes too long to decide where in the landscape to

in the moment of 1908, and trying to create something

place a house, the pair were determined to carefully

“THEY WERE INFLUENCED BY ANCIENT WOODBUILDING CULTURES, BUT THEY WERE BUILDING IN THE MOMENT OF 1908, AND TRYING TO CREATE SOMETHING ENTIRELY NEW AND BEAUTIFUL AND APPROPRIATE.”

consider views of the house from a number of perspec-

Surroundings, showing how foundation stones were

tives, as well as how the house connected to the land. In

pounded into place. “This was apparently a revelation

the case of The Gamble House, the architects considered

for Greene and had an immediate impact on his work,”

the home’s relationship with not only the immediate

Bosley says, referring to stone feet Charles later designed

landscape, but also the surrounding landscape of the San

for posts at the Arturo Bandini house in Pasadena and the

Gabriel Mountains and the Arroyo Seco.

Cora Hollister house in Hollywood.

To Bosley, the pond on the rear patio is clear evidence of

Bosley also points to the 16 carvings at the frieze level of

Japanese influence on The Gamble House. “The stones in

the Gamble House’s living room—carvings that are similar

the pond have surfaces that rise above the surface of water,”

in concept to panels in Japanese homes called ramma.

Bosley explains. “These become stepping-stones in the pond itself, a feature you see in some Japanese gardens.”

Even before The Gamble House, Charles Greene had

As shaped as they were by Japanese architecture and art, the Greene brothers wrote little about how Japanese style influenced them. “They weren’t very forthcoming

become curious about Japanese design and incorpo-

about why they did what they did,” Bosley concludes.

rated it into several other homes. He had purchased

“Their work speaks for them most eloquently.”■

Edward Sylvester Morris’ book Japanese Homes and Their

|

73

ACTIVE 1 TOLUCA ESTATES DRIVE, TOLUCA LAKE | $2,795,000

ACTIVE

IN ESCROW

SOLD

4424 PONCA AVENUE, TOLUCA LAKE $1,995,000

4901 PLACIDIA AVENUE, TOLUCA LAKE $1,695,000

4263 FORMAN AVENUE, TOLUCA LAKE $3,300,000

SOLD 4560 CARPENTER AVE, VALLEY VILLAGE $3,170,000

SOLD

SOLD

4229 FAIR AVENUE, STUDIO CITY $2,050,127

10521 ADDISON STREET, TOLUCA LAKE $1,779,000

CRAIG STRONG DRE # 01450987 VP, Luxury Home Sales Top 1 % Nationwide #1 Individual Agent Companywide 1.3+ Billion Total Sales Volume strongrealtor.com

Compass does not guarantee the accuracy of square footage, lot size, or other information concerning the condition or features of the property provided by the seller or obtained from public records and other sources and the buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information. CalBRE 01450987

R E A L E S TAT E

Welcome to Toluca Lake Fine Living Steps to Lakeside Golf Club. Timeless Traditional lovingly maintained, large living room, fireplace & hardwood floors. Gourmet kitchen, gas cooking, 2 ovens & ample storage. Spacious fireside family room & dining. French doors to sprawling private paradise with pool, spa, flagstone patios, fire pit, BBQ area & pergolas. Master with double en suite, huge dressing room + bonus room. Additional beds with en suites. Lush landscape. 5-car drive & detached garage.

4263 Forman Avenue, Toluca Lake | 4263Forman.com | $3,300,000 4 Bed | 4 Baths | 3,910 Sqft | 15,227 Sf lot Craig Strong | Vice President, Luxury Sales | Compass info@strongrealtor | StrongRealtor.com | 818.930.4050

Oren David Mordkowitz ESTATES DIRECTOR | REALTOR ®

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Call for your FREE market analysis! © 2019 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates LLC. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

THE DINSKY TEAM

4218 FARMDALE AVE | STUDIO CITY

3 BD | 2 BA | 2,161 SQ. FT. | 6,756 SQ. FT. LOT JUST LISTED

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ANDREW MANNING FEATURED LISTING 3610 Dixie Canyon Ave l Sherman Oaks

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andrew@andrewmanning.com © 2021 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates LLC. BHHS and the BHHS symbol are registered service marks of Columbia Insurance Company, a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

THE LIVYATAN GROUP FEATURED

FEATURED

5115 Encino Ave | Encino 7 Bed | 7.5 Bath | Approx: 9,000 sq ft | 23,301 lot Offered at: $8,995,000

FEATURED

5155 Paradise Valley Rd | Hidden Hills 7 Bed | 7.5 Bath | Approx: 11,000 sq ft| 43,855 lot Offered at: $13,495,000

FEATURED

4848 Encino Ave | Encino 7 Bed | 9 Bath | Approx: 10,580 sq ft | 26,835 lot Offered at: $10,249,000

SOLD

SOLD

15601 Meadowgate Rd | Encino 7 Bed | 10 Bath | Approx. 10,420 sqft | 15,751 Sold: $10,350,000

SOLD

SOLD

12225 Gorham | Brentwood 4 Bed | 4.5 Bath | Approx. 3,857 sqft | 7,500 sqft Sold: $3,695,000

SOLD

3951 Royal Oak | Encino 6 Bed | 10 Bath | Approx. 10,902 sqft | 23,296 sqft lot Offered at: $10,530,000

4519 Haskell Ave| Encino 7 Bed | 7.5 Bath | Approx: 9,000 sq ft | 24,829 lot Offered at: $7,495,000

4422 Camelia | North Hollywood 5 Bed|8 Bath |Approx 5,198 sqft | 6,751 sqft lot Sold: $3,465,000

SOLD

3950 Royal Oak | Encino 6 bed | 10 bath | Approx: 10,902 sqft | 23,296 lot Offered at: $13,750,000

16766 Bosque Drive | Encino 5 bed | 9 bath | Approx: 8,500 sqft | 25,607 lot Offered at: $6,800,000

SOLD

4926 Petit | Encino 5 bed | 7 bath | Approx: 4466 sqft | 8,249 lot Sold: $3,145,000

SOLD

12223 Gorham Ave | Brentwood 4 Bed | 4.5 Bath | Approx. 3,857 sqft | 7,500 sqft lot Offered at: $3,695,000

Adi Livyatan

New Construction and Luxury Home Specialist Wall Street Journal Ranked #15 in CA | #28 in the Nation Mobile: 818.919.4060 • Office: 818.285.3220 Email: adilivyatan@yahoo.com DRE# 1892750

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SOLD OVE R $25 0 M I LLION I N 2 0 2 0

MICHAEL BERGIN |

LUXURY ESTATES DIRECTOR

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Madrid, Spain

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531 Nolan Avenue, Glendale $1,973,000 3 Beds 3.5 Baths 2,900± Sqft Views, views, views!!

JUST SOLD

6002 Allott Avenue, Valley Glen $1,930,000 5 Beds 6 Baths 7,613± Sqft Media Room Huge Basement Wine Cellar

JUST SOLD

4837 Laurelgrove Avenue, Valley Village $1,975,000 4 Beds 4 Baths 4,440± Sqft Incredible Opportunity on Large Corner Lot

Michael Bergin Luxury Estates Director 310.600.0715 Michael@MichaelBergin.com DRE 01845572

Your #1 Real Estate Expert Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdraw without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footages are approximate. Exact dimensions can be obtained by retaining the services of an architect or engineer. This is not intended to solicit property already listed.

4533 GENTRY AVENUE

S T UDIO CI T Y | $ 4 ,699,90 0

6 BEDS | 8 BAT HS | 6,500 SQ . F T. | 10,079 SQ . F T. LOT

17143 ADLON ROAD

ENCINO HIL L S | $ 7,799,90 0

6310 MIRROR L AKE

L A K E HOL LY WO OD | $ 6, 499,90 0

6 BEDS | 7.5 BAT HS | 8, 400 SQ . F T. | 23, 493 SQ . F T. LOT

6 BEDS | 8.5 BAT HS | 6,500 SQ . F T. | 10,14 3 SQ . F T. LOT

4323 BEL LINGHAM AVENUE

5 BEDS | 3 BAT HS | 3,100 SQ . F T. | IN ESCROW

23130 ERWIN S TREE T SOL D OFF MARKE T

3820 RHODES AVENUE

4274 FARMDAL E AVENUE

S T UDIO CI T Y | $ 2, 299,0 0 0

S T UDIO CI T Y | $1,799,90 0

4 BEDS | 4 BAT HS | 2,650 SQ . F T. | C OMING S O ON

DANIELLE.PERE T Z@THE AGENCYRE.COM 818.644.1477 LIC. #01897529

C OL FA X ME A D OW S | $1,50 0,0 0 0

3 BEDS | 3 BAT HS | 1,870 SQ . F T. | 6,74 3 SQ . F T. LOT

SOL D OFF MARKE T

DANIELLE PERE T Z

WO ODL A ND HIL L S | $ 2,115,0 0 0

A home that exceeds expectations deserves a mortgage to match

• Mortgage discounts with Relationship Pricing1 • Dedicated support every step of the way • Jumbo loan sizes up to $3 million; loan sizes up to $8 million available to well-qualified buyers who meet Citi’s High Net Worth2 requirements

We’ve got a mortgage to fit your needs.

Call me today.

John Musso Home Lending Officer 818-518-1008 john.musso@citi.com citi.com/johnmusso NMLS# 448606

Terms, conditions and fees for accounts, programs, products and services are subject to change. This is not a commitment to lend. All loans are subject to credit and property approval. Certain restrictions may apply on all programs. Offer cannot be combined with any other mortgage offer. This offer contains information about U.S. domestic financial services provided by Citibank, N.A. and is intended for use domestically in the U.S. 1

A Citibank deposit account and automated monthly transfers of the mortgage payment from a Citibank personal deposit account using automated drafting will be required to receive Citibank mortgage relationship pricing. Ask a mortgage representative for details on eligible balances and the qualifying closing cost credit or rate discount. Availability of the Citibank mortgage relationship pricing for Citibank account holders is subject to change without notice.

2

Available for clients with a minimum of $500,000 or more in investable post-close assets, and at least $50,000 in traditional assets must be on deposit with Citi at least 10 days prior to closing. This amount may be part of the $500,000 eligibility requirement. Real estate, loan proceeds, stock options, restricted stock and personal property will not be counted as part of the $500,000 or more investable post-close assets or the $50,000 in traditional assets. Net cash value of life insurance can be counted as part of the $500,000 but not part of the traditional assets. Investable assets are defined as deposit accounts (checking, savings, money market, Certificates of Deposit), unrestricted stocks, non-vested stock and restricted stock, bonds and retirement accounts held by the individual who is personally liable on the loan. These asset types held in revocable trust may be used provided the trust document meets the Trust Policy. 100% of the face value of all assets, except non-vested stock and restricted stock, may be used to calculate the amount of funds available to meet the eligibility criteria. For non-vested stock and restricted stock, the borrower must be 100% vested within 1 year of closing and a maximum of 70% of value may be used to calculate qualifying equity. Additional conditions apply. ©2020 Citibank, N.A. NMLS# 412915. Member FDIC and Equal Housing Lender. Citi, Citi and Arc Design and other marks used herein are service marks of Citigroup Inc. or its affiliates, used and registered throughout the world.

LAST WORD

Tabletop Treat Rose Lane Farms has designed The San Fernando Valley tones of creamy butterscotch, pale yellow, warm apricot and lush pink. $40 if picked up; $55, delivered. Rose Lane Farms, 11740 Sherman Way, North Hollywood, or call 323-791-1367

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NIKKI SMITH

bouquet, an enchanting bunch of fresh garden roses in delicious

The Spitz | Cameron Group G U I DA N C E & T H E R I G H T R E P R E S E N TAT I O N A R E C R U C I A L F O R B OT H B U Y E R S & S E L L E R S I N T H I S H OT M A R K E T. LI JUS ST T ED

13044 Dickens St, Studio City $1,899,000 JU

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3927 Westfall Dr, Encino*

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Andrew Spitz

Harriet Cameron

Fran Chavez

DRE#00924610 Realtor®

DRE#00675971 Realtor®

DRE#01013357 Realtor®

818-380-2151

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15316 Valley Vista Blvd, Sherman Oaks

Call Us To Find Out How List Price & Offer Strategy Make All The Difference 818-817-4284

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17003 Rancho St, Encino*

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20200 Ruston Rd, Woodland Hills

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4644 Arriba Dr, Tarzana JU

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11912 Laurelwood Dr #302, Studio City JU

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818-517-1411

* Represented Both Buyers & Sellers © 2021 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates LLC. BHHS and the BHHS symbol are registered service marks of Columbia Insurance Company, a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information. DRE #01317331