Lower Yellowstone River Guide

CONTENTS 3 ABOUT 4-5

ACCESS LAWS & ETHICS

6-7

HISTORY

8

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

9

CAMPING IN THE AREA

10-11 CORRIDOR MAP AND LEGEND 12-13

SECTION 1: HYSHAM TO MILES CITY

14-37 SECTION 1 MAPS 38-39 SECTION 2: MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE 40-61 SECTION 2 MAPS 62-63

SECTION 3: GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE

64-81 SECTION 3 MAPS

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ABOUT Stretching 294 miles downstream from the Bighorn River confluence, the lower Yellowstone River is one of the state’s great recreational secrets.

Montana’s longest free-flowing river glides past scenic sandstone bluffs, towering cottonwoods, rugged badlands, and vast stretches of prairie little changed from when Lieutenant William Clark and his party traveled here more than two centuries ago. The area provides opportunities for spotting deer, mink, otters, and beavers, amongst other wildlife.

Additionally, over 100 bird species use the riparian habitats, including chattering belted kingfishers as bald eagles and ospreys soar overhead.

Surrounding lands beckon visitors with Native American cultural sites, some of which were home to battlefields from the Indian Wars, and world-renowned paleontology digs. And the fishing! Catch rates for smallmouth bass, sauger, northern pike, walleye, shovelnose sturgeon, and channel catfish are good when water conditions are conducive. Moss agate hunters also have their secret spots along the banks after turbid flows unearth the coveted stones.

Seeing the lower Yellowstone’s adundant opportunities, the Montana Legislature recently invested millions of dollars in increasing and improving access, recreation and educational opportunities, and habitat conservation along this river corridor. This guide is the first step to helping people become more familiar with this rare resource so that they can have an informed, safe and satisfying experience while on it.

Unlike the upper Yellowstone’s mountainous, much-visited artery, the lower Yellowstone flows across miles of endless prairie dotted by farming and ranching communities. The river remains the lifeblood for agriculture and municipal water supplies. The remoteness of this country offers a solitude rarely found in other parts of Montana. This guide will assist the user in knowing how to plan, where to access services, and how to stay safe, all while helping to protect this valuable resource. The guide will be an evolving resource. For more information, visit fwp.mt.gov.

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ACCESS LAWS & ETHICS Montana Stream Access Law Under the Montana Stream Access Law, the public may use rivers and streams for recreational purposes up to the ordinary high-water mark.

Although the law gives recreationists the right to use rivers and streams for water-related recreation, it does not allow them to enter posted lands bordering those streams or to cross private lands to gain access to streams.

Bridge Access - the public has access to surface waters by public bridge or county road right-of-way. To learn more visit fwp.mt.gov/fish/stream-access

Practice “Leave No Trace” River Ethics • Know river skills and carry the necessary equipment to minimize your impact.

• Don’t leave your trash — Pack it in-Pack it out.

• Use existing restrooms or pack out human waste and toilet paper with a portable toilet.

• Avoid using the streambed as a pathway, and instead, walk along the shoreline within the high-water mark.

• Observe wildlife from a distance.

• Camp in designated campsites.

• Do not build rock fire rings — use designated fire rings or a fire pan.

• Always be mindful of fire danger, and make sure campfires are dead out before leaving.

• Islands in the river are mostly private property; do not assume they are public.

Respect Private Land Along the River • Know your rights and responsibilities under the Stream Access Law. • Stay below the ordinary high-water mark.

• Respect private property, don’t trespass. Most islands are private property.

• Keep dogs on a leash and under control.

• Respect ranchers’ needs for fencing and learn how to use float gates and portage routes.

• Leave gates as you find them.

• Obtain permission before camping or recreating on private property.

• It is important to stay in main channel of braided parts of the river.

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Cultural Resources Archaeological sites and historic structures on state and federal land are protected by a variety of laws and regulations including the Montana Antiquities Act and the National Historic Preservation Act. On private land, artifacts or archaeological sites belong to the private landowner. If you observe any artifacts along the river corridor, including arrowheads, historic cans or bottles, animal bones, or archaeological features like stone circles, hunting blinds, graves, etc, please leave all such cultural resources undisturbed, just as you found them.

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HISTORY DIFFERENT NAMES FOR DIFFERENT PEOPLE

How did the Yellowstone RIver get its name?

It is widely believed the name was derived from the Hidatsa phrase miʔciiʔriaashiish (Yellow Rock River). It’s likely this name described the yellow sandstone bluffs of the lower stretch of the river, though it may have also referenced the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

French trappers translated the Hidatsa name as Roche Jaune (Yellow Rock), and mountain men of many ethnicities followed suit. After encountering the Hidatsa in 1805, Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery recorded the English translation of Yellow Stone for the river’s name.

But for other tribes the river had a different name. The Crow, who lived along the upper stretch, called it Iichíilikaashaashe, or Elk River, because of the abundance of that animal there. The Mandan also knew it by that name.

The Nez Perce and Blackfeet name for the river, Wah-wo-ko ye-o-cose, as Meriwether Lewis spelled it in his journal, means “elk water.”

Deep History Native American tribes have lived along the Yellowstone River since time immemorial, and archaeological sites along the lower Yellowstone date back at least 11,000 years. In what is now Montana, Indigenous people were largely hunter-gatherers, moving seasonally through the landscape hunting, fishing and gathering plant resources. On the plains, bison were core to Indigenous life. Along the Yellowstone in far eastern Montana, there is rare evidence of agricultural villages including earthen lodges and propagation of corn and squash dating to 400 years ago.

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The Age of Explorers The Yellowstone was first explored by non-Indigenous peoples in 1806.

The Corps of Discovery was returning from the Pacific Northwest, and Lieut. William Clark led a party that sailed down the lower Yellowstone. Clark’s journals indicate that the party camped in several locations along the river.

Indian Wars A series of conflicts and battles between the U.S. Government and Plains Tribes, particularly the Lakota, Dakota, Northern Cheyenne, Northern Arapaho and their allies began in the 1850s and ended in 1890, with battlefields ranging up and down the lower Yellowstone corridor thanks to its importance as a travel corridor for the Army and for the tribes.

These conflicts are often referred to as the “Sioux Wars” and the tribes were fighting to protect their lands and way of life, while the government sought to open land to non-Indigenous settlement by containing tribal people to small reservations.

7

KNOWBEFORE BEFORE YOU KNOW YOUGO GO

A good rule of thumb is to allow for an average of 3 river miles per hour.

The scale and scope of the lower Yellowstone River requires a close attention to details for floaters. River access points are less abundant than on western Montana rivers. As far as floating times, a good rule of thumb is to allow for an average of 3 river miles per hour. The wind on the Yellowstone can blow against your canoe or raft with such ferocity as to stall most forward momentum.

Know the distances between river access sites and plan an appropriate amount of time to complete the float or plan for camping on the river. Dress for blistering heat or freezing temperatures, both of which can occur in the same day’s float. Plenty of water, and the tools to build a warming fire are necessities. A good pair of walking shoes is always a good idea in the event that you need to hike from the river to find assistance. Additionally, the ability to determine your location on the river is critical.

The use of this guide, other maps and materials, GPS, and phone applications that provide these tools are strongly encouraged. Remember to bring batteries for any electronic device that may need a charge to be functional.

8

CAMPING IN THE AREA KNOW BEFORE YOU GO In general, camping is allowed on all accessible public lands. In this guide, camping areas are designated on maps and marked with symbols in the text.

Camping experiences range from primitive, with no services, to full campgrounds with electrical hook-ups.

Recreationists should know the distances between river access sites and plan an appropriate amount of time to complete the float or plan for camping on the river.

There are opportunities for setting up camp on undeveloped public lands along the river; however, most land along the river is privately owned, and permission to camp is required beforehand. Islands in the river are mostly private property, so you should not assume they are public.

Because this is a free-flowing, dynamic river system, these islands also can frequently change in size and shape. A campsite you may have used on one outing may not be accessible on the next. Six fishing access sites along the lower Yellowstone allow camping.

Intake Dam FAS, river left, mile 71 downstream of Glendive, is one of the most developed sites. This popular paddlefishing site is 40 acres in size at 3,084 feet in elevation. There is fee camping with 40 camping spaces and access for camp trailers available.

The site offers a public phone (5/15 6/30), grills/fire rings, picnic tables, toilets, trash cans, and drinking water (5/15 - 10/1). Time limit for camping is seven days during a 30-day period.

Bonfield FAS allows camping but has too narrow a bridge to accommodate RVs. Along the river corridor, currently potable water is only available at Rosebud East FAS, Roche Jaune FAS, and Intake FAS.

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LOWER YELLOWSTONE RIVER CORRIDOR

Lower Yellowstone River Overview State Park

BLM Access Site

Fishing Access Site (FAS)

Other Access Site

Medicine Lake

Wildlife Management Area (WMA)

Bainville Mis sou ri Rive r

Diamond Willow FAS

Fairview

Richland Park

Fort Peck Lake

Sidney Lambert Seven Sisters WMA

Sidney Bridge FAS

Seven Sisters FAS

Elk Island WMA Savage

Elk Island FAS

Intake Dam FAS

Stipek FAS Black Bridge FAS

Bonfield FAS

Amelia Island WMA

Rosebud East FAS

Roche Jaune FAS

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Howrey Island Recreation Area

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Rosebud West Myers FAS Bridge FAS

Makoshika

Wibaux

Miles City

Far West FAS

Forsyth Hysham

Kinsey Bridge FAS

Glendive Community Ramp

River Pow der

Matthews Recreation Wildlife Area Pirogue Island

Amelia Island FAS

Fallon

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M O NTA N A

Terry

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OTA NORTH DAK

Powder River Depot

Fallon Bridge FAS

Glendive

Colstrip

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SECTION 1: HYSHAM TO MILES CITY

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 1 OF 32 an

m ve Ha Rd

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Isaac Homestead WMA 277

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Myers Bridge

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Howrey Island Recreation Area Bauer

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Myers

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Buckingham Coulee

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Myers Bridge FAS River right, mile 283. Adjacent to Howrey Island near Hysham. Camping available on adjacent Howrey Island Recreation Area. Latrine, concrete boat ramp, hunting (check regulations).

Isaac Homestead WMA 7 miles west of Hysham. 1,263 acres of habitat for white-tailed deer, pheasants, waterfowl, sharp-tailed grouse, turkey and occasionally antelope. Walk-in hunting from county road, WMA access road and via the Yellowstone River.

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Points of Interest M

YID DIVERSION DAM-

o si is n l Va y le Rd

About 5 miles below Myers Bridge FAS. Recommend portage left.

FORT RAYMOND-

Established at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Bighorn rivers in 1807 by American fur trader Manuel Lisa alongside former members of the Corps of Discovery including George Droulliard and John Colter. Fort Raymond was Montana’s first fur trading post, and represented a milestone in the growing conflict among the British fur trade and allied Blackfeet Tribe and the American fur trade, allied with the Salish and Crow Tribes.

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274 Ri r ve

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Diversion Dam

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Suga

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Howrey Island Recreation Area (BLM) 529-acre, walk-in area near Hysham along the river. Has a 1.3-mile nature trail.

Overnight camping allowed. Pack in and pack out garbage.

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 2 OF 32 ze

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Amelia Island WMA

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Hysham 311

Bench

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Amelia Island FAS River right, mile 273. 1.5 miles north of Hysham on Pumphouse Rd. toward water treatment facility.

Amelia Island WMA Provides 191 acres of habitat for white-tailed deer, pheasants, and waterfowl.

Walk-in hunting from county road and WMA access road. Small gravel parking area.

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Points of Interest HYSHAM-

Town of about 300 people along I-94. County seat of Treasure County. Has fuel and convenience items. Has historic, mission-style Yucca Theatre and Treasure County 89ers Museum. The town was named for Flying E Ranch manager Charlie Hysham. The Crow call the rimrocks near Hysham Baáhpalaxaxxe, which means “Where the Cliffs are Spotted.”

Johnston Coulee

ll Rd ollowe Gene H

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 3 OF 32 Roach Coulee

Hollowell Rd

Gene Hollowell Rd

Mission Valley Rd

Mission Valley

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259 260 258

262

261

Old Yellowstone Trl Rd

Sanders

Old High

Haines Rd

Deveny Coulee

Geology of Lower Yellowstone River

The perpetual interaction between the underlying geology of the Yellowstone River valley and erosive action of a flowing river has yielded the river and vegetation known today. In general terms, the resulting riparian zone and characteristics of Yellowstone River segments include:

Hysham to Miles City

Sinuous river with frequent islands with a dense cottonwood gallery and a riverbed composed predominantly of gravel/cobble.

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Points of Interest BATTLE OF LITTLE BIGHORN-

June 25-26, 1876. Known as the Greasy Grass River Fight (Phežísla Wakpá Okíčhize) in Lakota. Fought 70 miles to the southeast of Lower Yellowstone River along the ridges of the Little Bighorn River. Pitted the Lakota, Dakota, Northern Cheyenne, and Arapaho tribes against the 7th Cavalry and allied Crow and Arikara scouts.

Five units of the 700-strong cavalry were killed, including Lieut. Col. George Armstrong Custer. This was the major battle of the Great Sioux War of 187677.

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hway 10

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Although the Battle of the Little Bighorn took place some distance from the Yellowstone and is not visible on this map, it is the culmination of many of the earlier conflicts and meetings along the river corridor.

Many tribes lived along the Yellowstone and its tributaries, and the military used it as a staging point for its activities.

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Estimates range widely, but somewhere between 30 and 130 Indigenous members of the Lakota and Cheyenne coalition were killed.

Miles City to Fallon

A single river channel with infrequent small islands and minimal cottonwood growth with a gravel/cobble substrate between frequent bedrock shelves and boulder fields.

Fallon to North Dakota

Transition to a sinuous river with frequent large islands, a dense cottonwood gallery, and a predominantly sand/ silt riverbed and streambanks.

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 4 OF 32

Schw eitzer

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Howard Valley Rd

Finch

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Haine

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Hain

Lower Yellowstone River Fishery The relatively natural rate of flow and intact habitat of the lower Yellowstone River and its tributaries support a rich fish population of 61 species (41 native, 20 non-native) composed of many warm-water and cool-water species, and a few cold-water species. The river is also home to the endangered pallid sturgeon. Popular game species targeted by anglers include: sauger, walleye, smallmouth bass, northern pike, shovelnose sturgeon, channel catfish, burbot, paddlefish and freshwater drum. The river is dominated by warm-water species, but brown trout, rainbow trout, and brook trout also inhabit reaches of the Yellowstone River near and upstream of the Bighorn River confluence.

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BATTLE OF WOLF MOUNTAINBi

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Points of Interest

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Wyant Coulee

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Jan. 8, 1877. Four miles southwest of Birney along Tongue River, Northern Cheyenne Reservation. Last event in Great Sioux Wars.

Lakota Chief Sitting Bull and Cheyenne Chief Dull Knife had surrendered to U.S. forces by now, but Lakota Chief Crazy Horse attacked 500 troops under Col. Nelson A. Miles along the Tongue River. The soldiers held their ground and claimed Belly Butte and six other hills. No other serious offensives followed this battle. “Where The Big Crow Walked Back and Forth” is the Cheyenne name for this battle, and refers to medicine man Big Crow, who purposefully drew the soldiers’ fire at a key point in the battle by dancing back and forth along a ridge, dressed in bright red with a floor-length war bonnet, shooting at the soldiers until he was finally killed.

His death deeply affected the Northern Cheyenne warriors.

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During turbid phases, the use of slow-moving jigs with bait will increase success. During clear water phases, use jigs and bait, crankbaits, spinners, and fly tackle. In early July, smallmouth bass and channel catfish bite on minnow imitations.

Fishing in ponds/reservoirs and three major rivers – the Missouri, Yellowstone and Tongue – provides a unique warm-water angling experience. The paddlefish season in the spring is only available in central and eastern Montana.

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 5 OF 32 McGraw Coulee

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mond

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£ ¤ 12

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Howard Valley

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Kaup R

ells Creek Arm

Wyant Coulee

Rosebud West FAS River right, mile 237. I-94 Exit 93 north 0.75 mile on Hwy 12. Dangerous diversion dam downstream.

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240 Old Highway 10

94

Points of Interest

Car

terv

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FAST SETTLEMENT OF FRONTIER TOWN-

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Danger: old bridge pier

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Hammond Valley

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Rosebud West

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According to the historical guide, ‘Forsyth, City of Trees,’ Crow Indians first inhabited this area along the Yellowstone. Lt. William Clark passed through here in July of 1806 on his journeys. Seventy years later, Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer came through on his way to the fateful Battle of the Little Bighorn. By then homesteads were popping up, and soon after the Northern Pacific Railroad was moving west, with the town growing up around it.

£ ¤ 12

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Little Po

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 6 OF 32

Carte

rville

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Danger: Cartersville Diversion Dam Danger: old bridge pier

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236

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tree

S Park

Rosebud East

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Forsyth

£ ¤ 12

Cemet Dr

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Rosebud West

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Rosebud East FAS River right, mile 273. 1.5 miles north of Hysham on Pumphouse Rd. toward water treatment facility. Dangerous diversion dam immediately upstream. Camping allowed mid-April to Nov. 30.

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Points of Interest FORSYTH-

Li t t l e P or c u

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p in e

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Town of more than 1,600 people located along I-94 about 40 miles east of Miles City. County seat of Rosebud County. Established in 1876 as the first non-Indigenous settlement on the Yellowstone, and in 1882 residents named the town after Gen. James William Forsyth, who commanded Fort Maginnis during the Indian Wars and the 7th Cavalry at the Wounded Knee Massacre in South Dakota. Forsyth was a steamboat landing supporting army operations, and the Northern Pacific Railway helped establish the town. In the 1980s Forsyth served as the home of the U.S. Air Force 1st Combat Evaluation Group Detachment 18, evaluating radar observability for B-52s on training runs.

wy 1

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 7 OF 32 Quarter

r s e Cr ee k

Horse Rd

Johnson Coulee e Rd

Cartervill

Ho

Car

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225 224 229

Far West

226 Wildcat Coulee

t Fis Far Wes Acces

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10

Far West FAS River left, mile 223. 10 miles east of Forsyth on I-94, north at exit 102, east on Frontage Rd. 1 mile, north 1 mile on Hwy 446, west 1 mile on County Rd. Hunting restricted. Boat launch is located .5 mile west of camp area. Named after famed steamboat Far West.

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R

447 Old Hwy

Points of Interest ROSEBUD-

In 1878, Rosebud began as a small post office referred to as Beeman, on the Fort Keogh–Bozeman Stage Line.

In 1882, the Northern Pacific Railroad named the town Rosebud. Has a population of less than 100 people. Located about 10 miles east of Forsyth along I-94.

Luterson Coulee

rtersville

lle Rd

Cartersvi

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shing ss Rd

221 222

Rosebud

Old H

wy 10

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Ro

bud

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Cr k ee

Butte Creek Rd

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 8 OF 32 Jack Creek Hill 2623 ft

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d an

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East

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Southeastern Montana Wildlife FWP Region 7 is in southeastern Montana. The landscape is a prairie environment with rolling grass-covered hills, badland buttes, ponderosa pinecovered expanses, and river drainages. The region provides excellent mule deer and antelope hunting. Upland game bird and waterfowl opportunities.

The region has five state parks, four wildlife management areas and numerous fishing access sites for your enjoyment.

The birdwatching opportunities change quickly as you float through different habitats. The cottonwood gallery forests are teeming with the bird songs of yellow warblers, a half dozen different flycatcher species, and mourning doves.

Large cottonwood trees house red-headed woodpeckers, great blue heron

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Points of Interest THURLOW-

le Rd

ersvil

Rd

Cart

Thurlow Rd

Thurlow

Thurlow North

lo Thur

214

w Rd h

Sout

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213

211

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Sw

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The history of Thurlow’s 20th-century presence on the Montana landscape is vague.

It is known that Walter Hawley established an area post office in 1915, but the service was shortlived. Postal services were discontinued in 1942, and the settlement’s population is small.

RIVER LOOKOUT

I-94 rest stop with river overview - Between River Mile 212 and 213 on the north side of the river, there is a rest stop perched atop a butte that provides a spectacular overview of the Yellowstone River valley. There are short walking paths and benches for people to spend some time and enjoy the vista, which is particularly beautiful during the fall months.

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rookeries, and orioles with their pendulum nests. The open grasslands support Montana’s state bird - the western meadowlark and also offer eastern Montana specialties like lark bunting, lark sparrow, and field sparrow. And the badlands offer rock wrens, their songs alternating between clangs and buzzing.

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Th

url

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 9 OF 32

ville Rd

ters Car

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20 209

211 94

Ha

th

aw

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ay

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nch

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Old Hwy 10

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LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Railroad Covers the Plains In the early 1870s, the Northern Pacific Railroad attempted to extend rail service along the Yellowstone to Livingston from Bismarck, North Dakota, crossing the last of the native buffalo hunting grounds. This route was finally completed in 1883. By the early 20th century, Northern Pacific was providing train service along the river to the north entrance of Yellowstone National Park near Gardiner.

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Points of Interest HATHAWAY-

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Hathaway is a dot on the map in Rosebud County at Exit 117 on Interstate 94, roughly 20 miles (32 km) west-southwest of Miles City. The community had a post office until July 29, 1995; it still has its own zip code, 59333. The area was named for Brig.-Gen. Forrest H. Hathaway, U.S. Army, veteran of the Civil Warkand succeeding Sioux Wars. k General Hathaway served for 13 years through the Indian Wars in which General Nelson A. Miles was the commanding officer.

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 10 OF 32

lle Rd

tersvi Car

Sheffield Rd

Danger: concrete structure & ripra Caution: riprap rock pile

kk 200

202

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kk

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£ ¤ 12

94

Rd 61 6

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Navigating the Yellowstone Early explorers often used bull boats and pirogues. The native bull boat was a smaller, tub-like craft made of one or more buffalo hides stretched over a willow frame, and caulked with grease and tallow. It could be steered erratically with paddles. Pirogues were long, shallow boats crafted from a single tree.

As competition increased to chart new territory and corner the fur trade, the preferred modes of travel became the keel-boat (a cigar-shaped riverboat for cargo), the mackinaw (a small, open sailboat), and finally the steamboat.

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Points of Interest WILLIAM CLARK JOURNAL ENTRY-

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ap rock pile

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Ha

rtm an

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Reynold Draw

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July 29, 1806-Pirogue Island, campsite river mile 180 Late in the evening I arived at the enterance of a River which I take to be [NB: called by Indians] the Lazeka or Tongue River it discharges itself on the Stard. Side and is 150 yards wide of water the banks are much wider. I intended to encamp on an eligable Spot immediately below this river, but finding that its’ water so muddy and worm as to render it very disagreeable to drink, I crossed the rochejhone and encamped on an island close to the Lard. Shore. The water of this river is nearly milk worm very muddy and of a dark lightish brown colour. The current rapid and the chanel contains great numbers of Snags … cloudy and rain we set out as usal and proceeded on fast. Saw large gangs of buffals and Elk. R. Frazer killed an Elk.

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 11 OF 32

Sheffield Rd

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Ft. Keogh (USDA)

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Cre

ek

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LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Steamboats Leave Their Stamp Lewis and Clark bestowed many names on natural features of the area, while others were named by pioneer steamboat captain Grant Marsh for official maps of the day. Marsh was selected by the Army for an expedition in 1873 on his steamboat Far West and kept a detailed log. The goal was to see if upstream passage by steamboat was possible, paving the way for military supply missions and railroad surveyors. In the area of present-day Sidney, Marsh named a group of islands “Seven Sisters Islands,” for his own sisters, and the area retains the name. Marsh also named Sheridan’s Buttes, a formation north of the river

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£ ¤ 12

Points of Interest FORT KEOGH-

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Historic army fort just west of Miles City. Founded in 1876 near confluence of Yellowstone and Tongue rivers then Col. Nelson A. Miles following the Battle of the Little Bighorn. Later moved 1 mile west and renamed in honor of Capt. Myles Keogh, who died in the Battle of the Little Bighorn. Community of Milestown formed around the fort. In 1900 it became an army horse remount station and was the busiest station in the world during World War I. Today it serves as a federal livestock and range research station, having produced the Line 1 Hereford cattle known worldwide in genetics research.

Guinness World Records reports that the largest natural snowflake ever recorded, measuring 15 inches (38 cm) in diameter, fell at Fort Keogh on January 28, 1887. - Wikipedia

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near military camps at the Powder River Depot (near Terry). He named the peak for Lieut. Gen. Philip Sheridan, who gained Civil War notoriety, commanded the plains Indian Wars and later became general of the entire U.S. Army.

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HYSHAM TO MILES CITY - MAP 12 OF 32 Sheffi

eld R

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Ft. Keogh (USDA)

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184 185

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Roche Jaune

Valley Dr

Miles City

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e yn Ha

Spotted Eagle Lake

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ig

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Ri v

94

Carbon Hill 2524 ft

Roche Jaune FAS River right, mile 182. On NW edge of Miles City on Hwy 59. Concrete boat ramp only functional at high water. ADA flush toilet facility open May-Sept. No camping, no hunting.

Pirogue Island State Park This 269-acre island offers visitors an excellent spot to view waterfowl, bald eagles, fox squirrels, whitetail and mule deer, or to hunt for moss agates. Day use only. You can envision the Corps of Discovery’s travel along the river.

36

Le

£ ¤

er

Camelsback 2502 ft

e Av

Points of Interest r e ek y C

da

489

SS

S un

un

y Creek Dr da

e ris Rd

178

n tte

ve Ho

Ln

y

180

W

179 Valley Dr E

y to

Ot Rd

n

lL

de

n to

gh

an pr

S

12

MILES CITY FISH HATCHERY-

Located just off of Highway 12 the FWP facility has a main building and 49 ponds.

It is primarily a warm-water hatchery, raising walleye, tiger muskie, smallmouth and largemouth bass, channel catfish, and occasionally sauger and shovelnose sturgeon for stocking purposes. For several years the hatchery has housed male pallid sturgeons in order to collect milt, fertilize eggs and stock the endangered fish.

¹

Á

vd Bl

£ ¤

City with population near 8,300 along I-94. Lodging, fuel, food, shopping. Known for historic cattle drives and the annual Miles City Bucking Horse Sale.

Named for Gen. Nelson A. Miles, who founded Fort Keogh.

The Livestock and Range Research Laboratory at Fort Keogh, operated by the USDA, develops ecologically and economically sustainable range animal management systems that meet consumers’ needs.

Sun

Pirogue Island

MILES CITY-

37

SECTION 2: MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH

38

39

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 13 OF 3 489

489

Su

177

yt

t

W

en

ve Ho

176

Ln

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ay

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174

175

173

54

90

Valley Dr E

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nd d

lR

ia

tt

Bi

94

Matthews Recreation Wildlife Area (BLM) Travel 9 miles northeast of Miles City on Valley Drive East. At the sign for Matthews Recreation Area, turn left (Tusler Rd.), go across the railroad tracks.

Follow the road and take a left at the BLM Matthews Recreation Area sign.

The Yellowstone River can be accessed by canoe or kayak here; however no improved boat launch facilities are present. Site offers picnic tables, grills and a covered dining area. Fishing, bird watching and wildlife viewing are frequent activities at this site.

40

Su

Ln

lL

ot

ro er

pe

h rc

Ki

ap

Ch

rR

C er

Points of Interest

32

WILLIAM CLARK JOURNAL ENTRY-

Noble Reservoir

July 30, 1806-Buffalo Rapids, campsite river mile 143.6.

Set out early this morning at 12 miles arived at the Commencement of Shoals the Chanel on the Stard Side near a high bluff. passed a Succession of those Shoals for 6 miles the lower of which was quit across the river and appeared to have Kinsey a decent of about 3 feet. This is by far the wost place which Bridge I have seen on this river from the Rocky mountains to this 170 place a distance of 694 miles by water. a Perogu or large Canoe would with safty pass through the worst of those Shoals, which I call the Buffalow Sholes from the circumstance. one of those animals being in them. The rock which passes the river at those Sholes appear hard and gritty of a dark brown colour. The clifts on the stard. Side is about 100 feet in hight, on the lard side the country is low and the bottom rises gradually back.

171 Buffalo Rapids 172

r Tusle

Rd

Matthews Recreation Wildlife Area

¹

Á Kinsey Bridge FAS -

River left, mile 170. 1.5 miles northwest of Miles City on Hwy 59, Hwy 489 to Kinsey, 4 miles southwest on county road Caution boaters, frequent shallow boulder fields upstream and downstream of site.

41

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le

Rd

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 14 OF 3

Mi

489

Mu

Kinsey

ste

Kinsey Bridge

Tu

169

ek r Cre

Mastin Rd r Rd sle

OURMENS 168 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM 167 REM LANDI DOLORER EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, IPISCIPSUST LIG

170

166

94 r Valley D

E

Kinsey Bridge FAS River left, mile 170. 1.5 miles northwest of Miles City on Hwy 59, Hwy 489 to Kinsey, 4 miles southwest on county rd. Caution boaters, frequent shallow boulder fields upstream and downstream of site.

42

Points of Interest

32

RANGE RIDERS MUSEUM-

M cbean R

d

Alic k

h Rd

Gumbo Ranc Silo Lp

East Lp

01

Dixons Rapids 165

02

163

Private frontier museum on western edge of Miles City, open to the public. Exhibits range from dinosaur fossils to Indigenous, pioneer, military and cowboy history, along with displays on the founding of Miles City. One Fort Keogh officer’s quarters is among the exhibits, as well as an old schoolhouse, and extensive wagon and gun collections. Open April 15-Oct. 15. Located at 435 Interstate 94 Business Loop, Miles City.

164

Á

¹

Twelve Mile Dam FAS On the Tongue River 12 miles south of Miles City on Highway 59, then 1 mile south on the Tongue River Rd., Highway 332. There is a campground with tent and trailer sites. Facilities are limited to restrooms, with no drinking water available.

There is a handicap-accessible fishing pier, and boat ramp. Campers are limited to a seven day stay. Existing ADA Level: Easy Accessibility.

43

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 15 OF 3

m

Gu

bo

Ranch Rd

Bonfield OURMENS ALI MUIAT DESTRUM AUTEM LUAMLowEOS EUM d er R 160 REM LANDI DOLORER 162 EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, 161 IPISCIPSUST LIG

159

C

ot

ton w

163

Old Highway 10

oo d

k Cr e e Dia mo

nd

Rin g

94

Bonfield FAS River left, mile 159. 1.5 miles northwest of Miles City, Hwy 489 to Kinsey, northeast on county rd. 7 miles. RVs are not recommended at this site. There are 3 miles of minimally maintained access road and an extremely narrow bridge that will not accommodate wider trailers (max. 8 feet).

44

Points of Interest

32

CONFLUENCE OF TONGUE, YELLOWSTONE RIVERS-

157 156

158

pp

La

01

an

n Fin

em

Rd

02

Rd

155

¹

Á

The Tongue River rises in Wyoming in the Bighorn Mountains, flows into southeast Montana and empties into the Yellowstone River at the west end of Miles City. Currents below the confluence can be swift and unpredictable. In Crow, this place is called Déeshaashe Ammatchiia, or “Mouth of Tongue River.” The Tongue River is known as the Tȟačhéži Wakpá, or “Bison Tongue River” in Lakota. In Cheyenne, it is called Vétanovéo’hé’e. Across from this confluence, on the north side of the Yellowstone, the Battle of Honsinger Bluff, or Tȟačhéži Wakpá Okíčhize (Tongue River Fight), as it is known in Lakota, was fought between the 7th Cavalry and Hunkpapa Lakota on August 4, 1873. The cavalry was protecting the Northern Pacific Railroad Survey, and the Lakota were defending their territory after refusing to sign the 1868 Fort Laramie Treaty.

45

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 16 OF 3

ek

Cu

st

TERRY BADLANDS WILDERNESS STUDY AREA

e r C re

Devils Backbone Yellowstone Coulee

OURMENS ALI MUIAT DESTRUM Bear Rapids 151 AUTEM LUAM EOS152EUM 153 REM LANDI DOLORER 154 EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, Old Highway 10 IPISCIPSUST LIG na onta M Rd

Powder River Depot Special Recreation Management Area (BLM) This 161-acre Bureau of Land Management site is accessible by canoe, river boat or kayak; however, no improved boat launch or take-out facilities are present.

Fishing, bird watching and wildlife viewing are frequent activities at this site.

This is a pack-in, pack-out area for garbage. There are no facilities on site.

46

150

Points of Interest

32

HIKING & BIKING TERRY BADLANDS-

The 44,000-acre site offers world-class views of Badlands geology for hikers and bikers.

There is access to a stunning scenic overlook via a westbound dirt road directly off Highway 235 or by way of the Calypso Trail, an unimproved dirt road accessed by an old railroad grade on the western side of the wilderness study area. Wheeled traffic is restricted to Calypso Trail, and a 4WD vehicle is recommended.

Gate Coulee

148

02

The Natural Bridges Trail is well

ve

hoodoos, and grasslands. The trail is 3.6 miles roundtrip and gains 325 feet in elevation.

Gt-4

3

Po w d

er

Ri

94

PA known but is surprisingly not ! !

Powder heavily used. A nice day hike River will include unique geology PALA and broad views of coulees, r

01

147

149

¹

Á

47

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 17 OF 3

Sheridan Butte 2650 ft

141

Calypso Special Recreation Management Area

140

e ke

au

lw

Mi

OURMENS 142 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM AUTEM LUAM 145 EOS EUM REM LANDI DOLORER 146 EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, Powder 143 River IPISCIPSUST LIG Depot

147 Po wd er

!

Powder River PALA

144

Wolf Rapids

PA !

Riv e r

Conns Coulee Old Highway 10 94

Terry Badlands Wilderness Study Area (BLM) Three miles northwest of Terry. From I-94 at Terry, travel on Highway 253, crossing the Yellowstone River, about 2.5 miles to Scenic View Rd., a dirt road Turn left, west, and drive this road about 6 miles to the Terry Scenic View, an overlook on the edge of the WSA. Excellent area for hiking, backcountry hunting, rock and fossil collecting, and enjoying the spectacular badlands scenery. Features colorful, banded cliffs that overlook rolling prairie. Stunning geologic features include sandstone bridges, spires, table tops, and buttes divided by many deep gullies, all formed by thousands of years of wind and water erosion.

48

Points of Interest

32

POWDER RIVER DEPOT HISTORIC AREA-

Terry Scenic View Area Sc

en

ic

Vie

w ad Ro

TERRY BADLANDS WILDERNESS STUDY AREA

01

139

138

02 Badlands WHPA

Pu m

p

Ho u

Ce

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137 se

et

y

Lp

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Terry

The Powder River Depot was located at the confluence of the Powder and Yellowstone rivers, southwest of Terry. The scenic area was the site of Native American encampments for centuries, military activities during the Great Sioux War of 1866-67, fur trapper trade, stagecoach traffic, and pioneer movement. In Lakota, the Powder River is known as both Makȟáblu Wakpá (Powder River), and Čhaȟlí Wakpá (Charcoal River). In Crow, it is Bilápchaashe. A gravel road off West Old Highway 10 leads to the site, where an ornate iron fence with silhouettes of buffalo hunters surrounds graves from the late 1800s. Interpretive signs share tales of frontier people who traveled these lands and water, including Lieut. William Clark, Sitting Bull, fur traders, missionaries, cattlemen, and railroaders. Brig. Gen. George Crook and Gen. Alfred Terry established military camps here.

¹

49

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 18 OF 3 C h er r

y C ree

k

Coa

Scenic

View

Road

Terry

136

Bridge OURMENS PALA ALI MUIAT DESTRUM PA 134 ! !

135 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM k REM LANDI DOLORER pier old bridge EMPELIGNIMDanger: DEL ETUS, IPISCIPSUST LIG Terry

137

133

McKeons Rapids

253

94

Maybon

128

C

2

irie Pra

oute ty R oun

Broadview

Bench

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

William Clark Journal Entry July 31, 1806-Prairie County, river mile 101 I was much disturbed last night by the noise of the buffalow which were about me. one gang Swam the river near our Camp which alarmed me a little for fear of their Crossing our Canoes and Splitting them to pieces. Set out as usial about Sun rise passed a rapid which I call wolf rapid from the Circumstance of one of those animals being at the rapid. here the river approaches the high mountanious Country on the N W. Side. Those hills appear to be composed of various Coloured earth and Coal without much rock I observe Several Conical pounds which appear to have been burnt. This high Country is washed into

50

1

Hig Old

Points of Interest

32

TERRY-

al Creek Road

Skunk Arroyo

129

130

132

01

131

02

A town of just over 500 people located about 30 miles east of Miles City along I-94. County seat of Prairie County. First called Joubert’s Landing after the man who built a supply point along the Yellowstone for freighters traveling from Dakota Territory to Montana Territory.

It was renamed for Alfred Howe Terry, a general in the Union army who commanded an 1876 expedition in connection with Custer’s campaign. The Evelyn Cameron Heritage Center in Terry highlights the famed frontier photographer. Some lodging, fuel, food, shopping.

OLD MILWAUKEE RAILROAD BRIDGE-

10 hw ay

Bluff Port

g

Broadview Bench

Á

Also called Calypso Bridge.

Spans the Yellowstone River in Prairie County entering the Terry Badlands Wilderness Study Area. Calypso was a stop on the Milwaukee Railroad route.

This 225-mile eastern Montana section of railroad was built in 1907-08. Calypso had a school and ferry crossing in addition to the railroad section houses.

¹

Curious formed mounds & hills and is cut much with reveens. the Country again opens and at the distance of 23 miles below the Redston or War-har-sah River I landed in the enterance of a Small river [O’Fallon Creek] on the Stard. Side 40 yards wid Shallow and muddy. it has lately been very high.

51

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 19 OF 3

Fal

White Island Rapids Roa d

125

Cr eek

OURMENS 126 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM Coal Cree AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM k Ro ad REM LANDI DOLORER 127 EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, 128 340 Skunk ArroyoIPISCIPSUST LIG Coal

ty un Co 14 rie te 1 ai Pr Rou

way 10

n

C re e k

Little

lo al

Fallon

Flats

Old High

O 'F

129

Plum Coulee

Bluff Port

Fallon Bridge FAS River left, mile 124. I-90, exit 185 east, Frontage Rd. northeast 2 miles. No latrine, hunting restricted (check regulations).

52

124

Points of Interest

32

FALLON-

Tow llon

o er R

Denbys Peak 2470 ft

ad 94

Benjamin O’Fallon was William Clark’s nephew.

Fallon Bridge CBR

01 k

123

Danger: old bridge pier

Farm and ranch community in Prairie County with population of about 150 people. The town and county are named after O’Fallon Creek, which is in turn named for Benjamin O’Fallon, an Indian Agent for the upper Missouri region from 1823 to 1827.

Hatc

02

het C reek Lp

122

Rive

r Rd

121

Á

¹

53

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 20 OF 3 CBR

Cr

tch et

ee kL

p

Cr e e k B a d Rou t e

Ha

De Russys OURMENS Rapids 119 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 118 120 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM REM LANDI DOLORER Barrs Bluffs EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, IPISCIPSUST LIG

121

Ma N

rsh

Fa ll

on

Fla

t

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Fur Trappers and Traders After the Corps of Discovery, other notable figures like John Colter – who was with the Corps – Jim Bridger, and Jed Smith also explored the waters of the Yellowstone. Colter partnered with fur trader Manuel Lisa to establish Montana’s first trading post, Fort Raymond, on the river in 1807, at the mouth of the Bighorn River.

Initially, some tribes welcomed the fur trading economy, while others were opposed. The fur trade expanded rapidly in the region, taking hold in the early

54

Rd

117

Points of Interest

32

CUSTER CREEK TRAIN WRECK-

Rd 261

Rd 245

d 241

114

02 Rd

13

0

01

116

115

Á

The Custer Creek train wreck, sometimes referred to as the Saugus wreck after Saugus, Mont., was the worst rail disaster in Montana history, and one of the worst in American 20th-century history. The tragic accident occurred on the Custer Creek bridge near present-day Terry, Mont. On the evening of June 19, 1938, it had been pouring for hours when a Milwaukee Railroad passenger train reached the bridge. At that moment, a torrential flash flood struck the bridge, which collapsed under the weight of the train. Seven of the train’s 11 cars plunged into the rushing waters. There were 155 passengers on board the train, which was traveling from Chicago to Tacoma. Forty-eight passengers were killed and 75 injured. Another 43 survived unharmed. One car teetered over the edge for nearly an hour before it fell into the river and washed downstream.

The Billings Gazette said one body was recovered 50 miles downstream at Glendive.

¹

1800s and peaking in about the 1840s. By then, intense competition had driven several fur-bearing animals to near extinction. The industry drew a mix of ethnic and cultural groups including French-Canadian, British, Dutch, Hispanic, Russian, German, Irish, and African American. The fur trade forever changed Indigenous life on the plains; trade and intermarriage helped to cement relations, but increasing encroachment on tribal resources strained ties.

55

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 21 OF 3 94

Rd 260 Rd 261

114

OURMENS ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 112 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM Rd 253 REM113 LANDI DOLORER EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, 111 IPISCIPSUST LIG

Dry Coulee

109

110

Rd

13

0

bin C r e e k

Ca

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Farming and Ranching Cattle arrived in Montana in the 1830s to feed those at trading posts and missions, with ranching starting in the 1850s and spreading eastward, according to the Great Falls Tribune. The gold rush created a huge demand for cattle in the 1860s. The first Texas-to-Montana cattle drive was in 1866. After 1870 openrange cattle operations spread across the high plains, taking advantage of the free public-domain land once roamed by massive buffalo herds. The 1880s saw the peak of Montana’s open range. A population boom boosted demand at the same time railroads gave ranchers easy access to markets. But the brutal winter

56

Points of Interest

32

Rd

25

5

EVELYN CAMERON HERITAGE CENTER -

108

02

Cl

ea

C r e ek

r

01

107

Non-profit education center in Terry promoting the life’s work of Evelyn Cameron, an English woman who relocated to Prairie County with her husband near the turn of the century and documented life on the frontier with her camera and daily diary entries. The organization owns over 900 original Evelyn Cameron vintage photographs of the Old West, the people, and the landscape.

106

Á

¹

of 1886-87 was a game changer. Sixty percent of Montana cows died of cold and starvation in that horrible winter, effectively putting an end to the openrange era. On the heels of more railroad construction and the advent of hardrock mining, Montana achieved statehood in 1889. According to montana.gov, cattle and sheep ranches continued to take advantage of Montana’s abundant grasslands. Passage of the Enlarged Homestead Act in 1909 brought tens of thousands of homestead farmers into the state looking for inexpensive land.

Wheat farming was popular until an extended drought – and a drop in market prices after World War I– challenged many farmers. The homestead “bust” forced many farmers to abandon Montana.

57

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 22 OF 3 55

Rd 2

50

48

Rd 2

Rd 2

61

Rd 2

106

101

C

OURMENS 105 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 102 Cr e eLUAM EOS EUM AUTEM k 104 Monroe REM LANDI DOLORER Island EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, IPISCIPSUST LIG 103 le

ar

Smokey Coulee

Marsh

C re ek da r Ce 335

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Stone Circles The Great Plains are covered with stone circles that visitors may see clustered in various locations near the riverbanks.

Some of these circles likely indicate campsites where tipis were set up and the stones were used to secure tipi hides. These are often known as “tipi rings.”

Other stone circles likely served ceremonial or spiritual purposes. Stone circle sites, in general, are among the most common type of archaeological site in Montana.

58

Points of Interest

32 Rd 2 44

100 99

01

02

98

Approximately 5 miles upstream from Glendive lies the Hagen Site, a National Historic Landmark where Indigenous people established a permanent agricultural village 400 years ago, when most people in Montana were not growing crops or living in earthen lodges of the type recorded here. The site also includes cache pits, at least one burial, and more than 20,000 artifacts including pottery, stone and bone tools, and evidence of corn and squash propagation.

11 4

Shirley Rd

¹

Á

Rd

h Rd

HAGEN SITE94

59

MILES CITY TO GLENDIVE REACH - MAP 23 OF 3

94 Al d er A ve

2 Rd 40

Rd

261

DANGER: bridge piers with extreme hydraulics Rive d r R

98

95 OURMENS 96 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM 97 REM LANDI DOLORER Rd ETUS, EMPELIGNIM DEL rsh Ma IPISCIPSUST LIG D Pederson r

94

k

9

Taylo

Makoshik

Black Bridge FAS River left, mile 93. Entrance is adjacent to the historic Bell Street Bridge. No camping and hunting. No boat ramp.

60

Points of Interest

32

re e

k

Rd

GLENDIVE-

Dry C

Crisafulli Lake

Forest Park

Black Bridge

01

k

93

County seat of Dawson County located along I-94. Population around 5,000 people. Town established by Northern Pacific Railroad during building.

Home to Makoshika State Park, Glendive Dinosaur and Fossil Museum, Frontier Gateway Museum. Lodging, fuel, food, shopping.

Glendive Community Ramp 91

92

M

02

Glendive 335 Sargent

or Ave

Ave

Merrill A ve

ka

Cains Coulee

Graveyard Coulee

¹

Á Makoshika State Park -

The largest state park in Montana just west of Glendive features breath-taking badlands formations and the fossil remains of Tyrannosaurus Rex, Triceratops, and other prehistoric life. Makȟóšika in Lakota literally translates as “The Pitiful Country/Land.” You’ll find a visitor center at the park entrance with interpretive exhibits including fossils. Included within the 11,538-acre park are scenic drives, hiking trails, 28 camping sites, a group picnic area, and an outdoor amphitheater. Popular camping options include a teepee and a yurt.

61

SECTION 3: GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE

62

63

GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 24 OF 32 254

" ) 16

Rd 5 64

90

D eer

r ee

C

k

k

OURMENS89 88 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM REM LANDI DOLORER n dive C r e e EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, Gl e IPISCIPSUST LIG 87

94

86 Rd 30

Rd

300

3

Bryants Buttes 2416 ft

Stipek FAS River left, mile 83. I-94, Exit 213 North at Glendive, travel 8 miles northeast on Highway 16, 1 mile east on County Rd. No camping, hunting restricted (check regulations).

Parking area.

64

Points of Interest BATTLE OF CEDAR CREEK-

" ) 16

Stipek 84

01 85

Stipek Three Mile WHPA

83

02

Oct. 21, 1876. Twenty miles northwest of Terry. Known as Kičhíčhute Okhíčhize, or “They Shot at Eachother Fight” in Hunkpapa Lakota. Lakota Chief Sitting Bull met with Gen. Nelson A. Miles. Miles demanded surrender and talks broke off, followed by a skirmish between the Missouri and Yellowstone river drainages. Troops chased the Lakota 40 miles and stole supplies, after which many surrendered and returned to reservations. Sitting Bull was losing followers, but he and some holdouts headed to Canada rather than surrender.

Rd 315

¹

Á

65

Rd 5 3

9

GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 25 OF 32

" ) 16

76

Rd

30

3

77 OURMENS 80 79 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM 78 REM LANDI DOLORER 81 Schaffer Island EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, Wards Coulee IPISCIPSUST LIG 82

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Great Plains Bison For at least 13,000 years bison have been central to life on the Great Plains, providing shelter, clothing, food, and tools to Indigenous people. In fact, archaeological evidence demonstrates people hunting the extinct Bison antiquus as well as modern Bison bison. Bison antiquus was about 20 percent larger than modern bison, and went extinct approximately 10,000 years ago.

People used natural landforms and constructed impoundments to trap both ancient and modern bison, and jumps to harvest many of them in a communal endeavor. After the arrival of the horse in the 1700s, Indigenous hunters rode among herds of bison with bows and arrows, shooting from horseback at high

66

Points of Interest T h ir

te

en

MAKOSHIKA STATE PARK & LAKOTA HISTORY

The name, Makoshika, comes from the Lakota term for earth - “Maká” (ma-KAH) - and either the word “sícha” (SEEchah) meaning “bad” or “ooshika” (OO-shee-kah) meaning “poor” or “pitiful.” Indigenous tribes occupied this region for over 15,000 years, and tribal histories include knowledge of a variety of geological events and episodes in the earth’s history, including the “Age of the Dinosaurs.”

reek le C

mi

75

01

Interstate 74

02

US or MT Highway 72 Road

3

Indigenous inhabitants of this area include bands of Lakota, Hidatsa, Mandan, Dakota, Cheyenne, Crow, and Assiniboine (Nakoda/Nakona).

Some of these tribes have oral histories that tell about “serpent monsters” and “Thunderbirds,” and these stories suggest tribal knowledge of dinosaurs and pterosaurs. Tribes of this region discovered dinosaur and pterosaur remains throughout the “badlands” thousands of years before they were observed

by Lewis and Clark.

73 1 55 Rd

Coal Coulee

Elm Coulee

Á

Joes Island

¹

speeds. During the 19th century, the bison population plummeted from 3060 million to fewer than 1,000 animals, thanks to systematic killing by the U.S. government, settlers and commercial hunters feeding an international market for bison hides. Today, wild bison are managed in 10 national parks, a growing number of Tribal reservations, and other public and private lands.

67

GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 26 OF 32

Rd

54

Black Tail Coulee

9

" ) Rd 551

16

Intake

OURMENS Intake Dam ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 70 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM Joes Island 71 REM LANDI DOLORER 69 EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, Danger: Intake Diversion Dam IPISCIPSUST LIG E

72

3

67

Bo

68

x

Cr

e

Rd 314

Rd 3

ek

Rd 303

11

l d er

Intake Dam FAS Intake FAS has a concrete boat ramp, two picnic shelters, five vault latrines, potable water, numerous garbage cans, fire rings, and picnic tables. Fishing, bird watching, and wildlife viewing are frequent activities at this site. This is the most popular paddlefishing site in the region.

War Dance Wildlife Habitat Protection Area A 3.8-mile island in the Yellowstone located in Dawson County. Site offers hunting, photography and wildlife viewing. Hunting opportunities may include

68

" ) 16

55

Rd 5

War Dance Island WHPA 66

01

65 k ee

02

t t o n woo Cr Co

7

Points of Interest

Bedrock Shelf

d

Á

WILLIAM CLARK JOURNAL ENTRY-

Aug. 1, 1806, river mile 65 At 2 P. M. I was obliged to land to let the Buffalow Cross over. not withstanding an island of half a mile in width over which this gangue kk of Buffalow had to kk pass and the Chanel of the river on each Side nearly ¼ of a mile in width, this gangue of Buffalow was entirely across and as thick as they could Swim. the Chanel on the Side of the island the went into the river was crouded with those animals for ½ an hour.

The other Side of the island for more than 3/4 of an hour. I took 4 of the men and killed 4 fat cows for their fat and what portion of their flesh the small canoes could carry that which we had killed a few days ago being nearly spoiled from the wet weather. Encamped on an Island Close to the Lard Shore.

The island on which Clark camped is in Dawson County, just below the mouth of Cottonwood Creek in Wibaux County, downstream of Intake Dam.

¹

ducks, geese, ring-necked pheasants, and white-tailed deer. No site fees. Pack-in, pack-out area for trash.

69

GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 27 OF 32

" ) 16

r B urns C

eek

s Rd l Acces ana Cr340

Cr338 Cr

9

33

Cr

tC Eas

10

1

Caution: riprap rock pile

k k kk

OURMENS Idiom Island Island ALI Snake MUIAT DESTRUM 64 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM 62 REM LANDI DOLORER Chrome Island EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, IPISCIPSUST LIG 63

61

Gros Ventre Island 60

Mary

59 Valentine Flat

LOWER YELLOWSTONE HISTORY

Paddlefish (Polyodon spathula) A paddlefish is an organism that has gone through millions of years of fine ecological tuning. Fossil evidence indicates that the skateboard-nosed fish has been around for better than 70 million years. Nature has ingeniously equipped the prehistoric denizen of murky waters with a unique set of anatomical features.

The most noticeable feature is a flattened, spatula-shaped snout that has been designed to function like a sensitive sensory device in detecting swarms of minute plankton no larger than a needle point. Once inside the gaping mouth, the microscopic plants and animals are filtered out by numerous comb-like structures called gill rakers and diverted to the digestive tract.

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Points of Interest PADDLEFISHING1 Cr 04

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ys Island

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Elms Island

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Devils Canyon

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What makes 3,000 excited anglers flock to a short section of Yellowstone River shoreline and beat the water to a froth by flailing it with heavier-than-usual fishing gear? The prehistoric paddlefish.

During May, June and the early part of July, a special breed of angler travels to a rocky stretch of the river near Glendive at the Intake Diversion Dam. It’s here where they rig up their saltwater fishing gear and churn the coffee-colored water for the senior citizen of the Yellowstone, the paddlefish. Paddlefish are also caught in lesser numbers at the mouths of the Tongue and Powder rivers and the Forsyth diversion dam.

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Paddlefishing consists of fitting the terminal end of your fishing rig with one or more large treble hooks and a heavy sinker, and then casting this apparatus far out into the river. By retrieving with a series of hefty jerks, the snagger, if everything goes right, might hook into a lunker that will go 90 pounds or better.

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GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 28 OF 32 Peabody Coulee Cr

l Access ana Rd tC

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Elk Channel (dow

Savage

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Elk Island WMA

Elk Island

Garden Coulee 53 OURMENS 52 5 54 10 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM Cr 51 Devils Island AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM Beaver Island 55 LANDI REM DOLORER Breakneck EMPELIGNIM DELIsland ETUS, Elk Island Side Channel (upstream entrance) IPISCIPSUST LIG

ss al Acce Rd East Ca n

56 Duck Island

S m it h C r e e k

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Elm Coulee

Elk Island WMA & FAS River left, mile 52. Located on Highway 16, 1 mile north of Savage, east 3.5 miles on county road. Camping and hunting allowed on WMA portion.

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Points of Interest C 34 r 5

SAVAGE-

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Island Side wnstream entrance)

Elk Island FAS

Crittenden Island

Elk Island

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Small town of less than 300 people located on the Yellowstone and Highway 16, 20 miles south-southwest of Sidney. Named for H. M. Savage, supervising engineer for the U. S. Reclamation Service.

For many years, it was a busy shipping point for grain farmers and river-bottom beet growers.

Basic services.

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GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 29 OF 32

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Cr34

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Cr 3

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Elk Island FAS 47

OURMENS 44 ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 45 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM REMIsland LANDI DOLORER Crittenden EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, 46 IPISCIPSUST LIG

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4

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Cr 3

The Pyramid 2161 ft

Seven Sisters FAS & WMA River left, mile 40. Located 11 miles south of Sidney off Highway 16. 1.5 miles east from Crane on county road. Gravel boat ramp, camping and hunting allowed on WMA. No latrine. Named by steamboat captain Grant Marsh after his sisters.

Gartside Reservoir FAS -

This lake is a little over 100 acres in size. It is located off Highway 16 just before reaching Sidney, 1 mile north of Crane, turn left at sign onto county road and travel 1 mile. When fishing, anglers can expect to catch a variety of fish including bluegill, green sunfish, largemouth bass, northern pike, smallmouth bass, tiger

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Gartside Reservoir

WILLIAM CLARK JOURNAL ENTRY7 Cr 1 1

Gartside Reservoir Ea s Ac t Can ce ss al Rd

Crane

" ) 16

Seven Sisters Island

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August 2, 1806, river mile 40 River wide and very much divided by islands and Sand and Mud bars...Saw emence numbers of Elk Buffalow and wolves to day...passed the enterance of Several brooks on each side.

Clark was most likely describing Elk Island and the Seven Sisters near Sidney, which are wildlife management areas.

15 Cr 1

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Points of Interest

Seven Sisters WMA

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Seven Sisters 40

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Á muskie, walleye, yellow perch, and pumpkinseed.

It is in the Eastern Fishing District. Only use of electric motors is allowed.

Handicap Vehicles parking pad with a connecting hardened surface to the accessible latrine and ADA fishing platform at FAS.

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GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 30 OF 32 Bell Hill 2023 ft

Youngs Coulee

Cr 1 Cr

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East C an al Acce ss Rd

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9 11 Cr

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C r ee k

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Fo x

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OURMENS F Island WHPA ALI MUIAT DESTRUM Diamond AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM 37 Island REM LANDI DOLORER 36 EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, Buella Island IPISCIPSUST LIG 35

Cr

0

35

Cr 8

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Sidney Bridge FAS River right, mile 31. 1.5 miles south of Sidney off Highway 16, 1.5 miles east on Highway 23. No camping or hunting.

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Points of Interest al

LOWER YELLOWSTONE IRRIGATION PROJECT

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Sidney Bridge

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On March 10, 1904, Interior Secretary Ethan A. Hitchcock authorized the Lower Yellowstone Irrigation Project, under provisions of the Newlands Reclamation Act of 1902. The project was to be fed from a diversion dam 18 miles downstream from Glendive.

Today, that dam is called the Intake Diversion Dam.

Construction began in 1906, though difficult riverbed conditions and a series of spring floods slowed construction, and the dam was completed March 1910.

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The project irrigates 52,123 acres on the west bank of the Yellowstone River, 34,755 in Dawson and Richland counties.

From the diversion dam, the water reaches irrigation acreage by way of a 71.6-mile main canal and 225 miles of lateral canals.

The irrigated crops include sugar beets, alfalfa, small grains, corn for silage, and beans. Sugar beets and alfalfa predominate. Theodore Roosevelt Center, Dickinson State

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GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 31 OF 32 200

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3 12 Cr

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Sidney

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eS Av Th

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Sidney Bridge

Factory Lake

OURMENS ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 28 AUTEM29LUAM EOS EUM REM LANDI DOLORER EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, 27 IPISCIPSUST LIG

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Richland Park Managed by Richland County. Located near Sidney on County Rd. 128, 2 miles east of Highway 200. City park near Sidney with access to the Yellowstone River. The park also has a campground with primitive sites and boat launch.

Camping is free but requires a 72-hour permit from the local government offices. The park has playground equipment, picnic shelters, outhouses, disc golf course, and a mile-long nature trail.

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Points of Interest SIDNEYCr

County seat of Richland County located less than 10 miles west of the North Dakota border off Highway 16. Population of more than 5,200 people. Site of MonDak Heritage Center.

Lodging, fuel, food, shopping.

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Richland Park

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GLENDIVE TO STATE LINE - MAP 32 OF 32 Fir s t

Central Ave

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Richland Park

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OURMENS M ALI MUIAT DESTRUM 23 AUTEM LUAM EOS EUM REM LANDI DOLORER 5 33 22 Cr EMPELIGNIM DEL ETUS, IPISCIPSUST LIG Diamond Willow

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Diamond Willow FAS River right, mile 31. 1.5 miles south of Sidney off Highway 16, 1.5 miles east on Highway 23. No camping.

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Points of Interest Central Ave

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MONDAK HERITAGE CENTER-

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Educational center in Sidney with historical Main Street display, art collections and exhibits, art shows, seasonal events, and youth offerings.

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The MonDak Heritage Center offers: - An extensive research library and archives - ADA accessibility - Art programs - Museum tours - Access to historical records and photographs

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NOTES:

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FWP.MT.GOV 1,000 copies of this public document were published at an estimated cost of $3.536 per copy, for a total cost of $3,536.00, which includes $3,536.00 for printing and $0.00 for distribution.