Supper - Issue 6

ISSUE 6

AndrĂŠ Fu

Why good F&B design is more than meets the eye

Alain Ducasse

Turning French cuisine into an international empire

Jesse Vida

Taking an independent spirit to the world of the hotel bar

CONTENTS

Setting

SPECIALS

Entrée 007

Starters

Past Pastiche

Pó

SIPPING Cocktails 041

LaVenture

Appetizers 011

Hotel Saint George, Marfa

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

Restaurant Schönemann

global hotel F&B

Sofitel Frankfurt Opera RoofTop Bar

Arsenic Waltz

085

Dandelyan, Mondrian London

Warehouse Hotel, Singapore 042

The Grey Sage

086

Folly by Nick and Scott, Dubai 044

Two Memories

088

Artesian, The Langham London 046

Poli House, Tel Aviv Morah

048

SERVICE

Drinks Aviary

JW Marriott Marquis, Dubai

090

Montcalm Royal London House, London The New Pair Main Course

Different by Design

016

Cucina Angelina

André Fu explores the importance of the

Portetta, Courchevel

human element in F&B design

The Strand Restaurant

096

Go East 102 050

Tea Total

108

054

The Strand, Yangon The Lobby Fizeaustraat Talking French

022

058

Hotel V Fizeaustraat, Amsterdam

Legendary chef Alain Ducasse explains

Marc

how translating French cuisine for an

Wanda Reign on the Bund, Shanghai

international audience is at the core of his

The Wild Rabbit

business

The Wild Rabbit, Kingham Origin

076

Events 118

080

The Washing Up

Petits Fours 124 152

Nick Strangeway

Renaissance Paris République A Shanghai Story

SIDES

064

028

The founders of KokaiStudio on designing for the client’s client

SPREAD Shake a Tail

034

Bartender Jesse Vida brings his independent to the hotel world with a residency at

Home and Away

Bloomsbury Club

With Robert Welch at Dormy House, the

067

Cotswolds, and The St. Regis, Singapore

005

A tribute to the pioneers, the heritage and the process

ENTRée

Past Pastiche

C

ourchevel. Ski Season. Outside throngs of tourists are

informally dropped into unpretentious vessels – some jugs,

enjoying the packed powder. But a heavy wind careens

some glasses, some earthenware pots. It is a carefully curated

across the pistes and the fairer of spirit are coming in

simulacrum of a country pub restaurant, but without the

from the cold.

muddy wellies, dripping dogs and where vegetables are diced

Inside a log fire is lit and stout tumblers of whisky are flowing

into pristine, perfectly formed cubes. It is beautiful of course

liberally from the bar, as salopetted groups wrestle off jackets and

- the food delicious and immaculately presented - but it is

helmets and ease into comfortable chairs. It is, by all accounts,

undoubtedly a version of the countryside with the unseemly

the expected vision of a ski resort.

edges pruned and the surfaces buffed.

I’m at Portetta, the French Alps property of Britain’s Lime

So preoccupied we have become with ideas of authenticity and

Wood Group. The hotel’s restaurant, Cucina Angelina – headed

the inexorable search for ‘real experiences’ that we often fail to

by Chef Angela Hartnett – is an exercise in relaxed mountain

realise that most hotel F&B spaces deliver neither – and that’s

style: all reclaimed wood, stone floors and tactile fabrics.

fine. It shouldn’t be shameful to dabble in tasteful cliché or revel

It got me thinking about the notion of pastiche, so often

in the joyous inauthenticity of pastiche, as both offer something

bandied around as a near swear word in F&B circles. In essence

quite simple: in design, a visual vocabulary that is readily

the theory stands that if something veers too close to the expected

understandable and, in experience, the ability to connect and

or strays too far from the ‘authentic’, it is inherently invalid. But

understand a concept based on common references, sans effort.

if we accept that every new hotel bar or restaurant feels the hand

Today the dividing lines between actual and artificial, between

of a designer, is supplied with a glut of newly minted tableware

pastiche and originality, are so blurred as to become moot. So

and is, in all likelihood, a version of something seen before, at

must pastiche really be considered a slur and must we always

what point do we draw the line between our appreciation of

chase the authentic at the expense of the inauthentically good,

inspiration versus our distrust of imitation, and must we apply

or even great?

the distinction at all?

The plates at Pó may not have endured the years of use

The recently opened The Warehouse Hotel in Singapore is

hinted at, The Wild Rabbit may not be a rough-around-the-

an interesting example. Its restaurant Pó is informed by the

edges representation of country life and Cucina Angelina may

building’s – and the city’s – past. Through its refined take on

mimic the homely style of an Alpine chalet, despite the fact

locality it nods to a less polished period but, of course, polishes

few dwellings feature 38 bedrooms. But I’d hazard most guests

it. Plates are mottled, bowls are artfully distressed and wooden

prefer their Asian hotel dining with a dose of refinement; their

serving boards evoke the dusty eateries of Singapore’s side

Cotswolds weekends without the soil sodden seats; and who

streets. Indulge in the gauche but addictive habit of plate flipping,

wants to return after a day on the slopes to a concrete box with

however, and you’ll discover that most of the restaurant’s wares

industrial lighting, all in the interests of individuality?

are Steelite International - brand new pieces in disguise.

I say we embrace pastiche and surrender to the pleasure of

Not long ago I visited The Wild Rabbit in the Cotswolds,

well-executed hotel F&B destinations, even if they feature well-

recently furnished with a Michelin Star. Again, log fires rage,

worn design tropes and even if it means suspending our desire

wooden tables bear the scars of use and, atop, flowers are

for ‘reality’ and indulging in a pleasantly glossier version of it.

Harry McKinley | Editor

007

THE BRIGADE

Editorial

Advertising

Finance

Editor-in-Chief

Advertising Manager

Finance Director

Matt Turner

Rachel Chadwick

Amanda Giles

m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk

a.giles@mondiale.co.uk

Editor

Marketing

Harry McKinley h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi l.levi@mondiale.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Brand Director

Group Financial Controller

Kristofer Thomas

Amy Wright

Sarah Miller

k.thomas@mondiale.co.uk

a.wright@mondiale.co.uk

s.miller@mondiale.co.uk

Contributors

Design

Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

Angus Winchester

Lauren Ho

Design

Daven Wu

Noga Tarnopolski

David Bell

Dominic Roskrow

Nick

d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

Holly Motion

Nina Caplan

Corporate

Joann Plockova

Photographers

Production

Chairman

Dan Seaton

Damian Walsh

d.seaton@mondiale.co.uk

d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk

Website designed and developed by Allen Tan

Heikki Verdume

Giulia Zonza

Marco Paone

Gregory J Buda

Pierre Monetta

Garrett Rowland

Yael Engelhart

Supper Magazine, Strawberry Studios, Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 5580 • www.suppermagazine.co.uk

93ft.com Supper is printed by Buxton Press

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10.03.17 10:36

APPETISERS

Awash with Possibilities

Bacon and butter infused rum, chorizo bourbon,

fat-washing has expanded to consider the possibility of

and duck oil sherry; though the term fat-washing

sesame infused gin, a peanut butter martini and, from the

immediately conjures images of hot dripping grease and

team at W Hotel Taipei, a Truffle Mary - made with tomato

heavily clogged arteries, much of the actual fat content

juice, fresh lemon juice, old balsamic vinegar, black olive,

is strained out in the process, leaving just the taste.

black pepper and truffle salt.

However, regardless of the contested health aspect, the

High in protein, vitamin C and host to an ensemble of

process of fat-washing still largely appeals to a select

natural minerals, the use of truffle fat especially could go

audience: meat-lovers and those that long for a hint of

some way to negate the cholesterol raising connotations

beef with their tonic, or perhaps a foie gras Manhattan.

of the process, as well as offering refined palettes a more luxurious frisson.

Hardly the most inclusive mixology method, fat-washed

For drinkers who would like to experience the savoury

cocktails have thrown up issues for vegetarians and vegans,

kick of a fat washed cocktail but are cautious of the quality of

as well as health concerns for those guests not wholly

the ingredients, higher-end drinks have also been created,

convinced that the process removes the substantial fat

with a Wagyu beef fat-washed Japanese whisky and a

content.

chocolate and blue cheese Martini now both featuring on

What this movement is, however, is versatile. The fat-

bar menus.

washing process – of mixing a chosen fat with a base spirit,

Experimentation with the healthier side of fat washing

freezing, then separating the fat from the infused spirit –

– with substitute oils, vegetable derivatives and plant

can be completed with any type of liquid fat, meaning that,

milks - provides a platform for a wide range of new flavour

with some brave innovation and bold experimentation, the

combinations, with the use of the most conventional and

niche can be opened up for all to enjoy.

popular fats restricting the amount of possible concoctions.

Though the solutions drawn from bacon, butter and beef

An almond-infused rum, a truffle tequila and peanut

are high in dreaded trans fats and monounsaturated oils,

butter bourbon no longer seem like the imaginings of an

healthy alternatives are available.

inebriated vegetarian, and could easily appeal to a broader

Having come a long way since the halcyon days of New York City bar PDT’s bacon-heavy Benton’s Old Fashioned,

spectrum of guests than the fry-up-in-a-glass imagery suggested by the title of the method.

011

APPETISERS

Good Old Food

In turbulent times, there is a tendency for a sense of

and presentation preferences involved in gourmet

nostalgia to take hold, and for us to look back, not in anger

nostalgia play on sense memory, offering guests an F&B

but in fondness. Back ‘then’ everything was warm and

experience that touches upon identity and memory. In this

fuzzy: the music was made with guitars, the politics less

case it is familiarity that takes centre stage, with diners

divisive, and the food apparently tasted much, much better.

experiencing a throwback to the food of their youth. In familiarity lies comfort, and in comfort lies popularity.

In 2008, Loews Regency Park Hotel, New York, introduced

At The Café at Hotel Café Royal, London, Executive

a dish that combined the high-end fare of its Regency

Pastry Chef Sarah Barber devised a menu intended to hark

Bar & Grill with an innovative nostalgic twist. Served on

bark to childhood. “One of the original creations was a

a plain, white plastic tray - divided into sections for its

‘Jaffa Cake’ served in a woodland forest with mandarin

different components - wasabi crusted North Atlantic

chocolate mushrooms. Another is a personal twist on the

wild salmon was presented to guests as a classic 1960s TV

classic rhubarb and custard. These are flavours I remember

dinner. Its original JFK-era kitsch was fully intact, though

growing up and the idea behind the concept is to create

prepared and assembled with the usual precision to avoid

sweet childhood memories guests will cherish,” she says.

sacrificing any of the expected quality.

Pragma Consulting, explains in the firm’s annual market

remembered, traditional dishes as upscale, high-quality

snapshot: “Sensory innovations to create theatre add

cuisine - has risen by degrees in popularity and is now touted

that extra edge, and the more experimental consumer is

as one of the most significant dining trends of the sector.

particularly driven by experiential elements.”

Whether it be Loews’s slow braised pot roast served

Experiential dishes in the vein of gourmet nostalgia’s

in the frozen TV dinner format remembered by millions,

rising popularity are able to cater to both sides of the coin,

or opulent desserts built around the butterscotch Angel

at once pleasing guests that demand quality, but also, with

Delight of yesteryear, diners will find that dishes of this

a side of personality, playfulness and individuality. With

kind seek to appeal to something more intimate than taste

this in mind, the movement falls somewhere between

or appreciation of appearance.

attention-grabbing device and a sincere intent to capture

Linked directly with emotion, the flavour perceptions

012

Helene Mills, director of strategy and consumer for

Gourmet nostalgia - the practice of reimagining fondly

the emotion often so bedded in F&B..

5878 WWRD Wedgwood Supper Magazine advert 1216 AW.indd 1

15/12/2016 15:37

APPETISERS

Food Squared

With 60 million photos being shared by 200 million

Instagram accounts can project an image of both its food

monthly users, Instagram has quickly become one of

and atmosphere, controlled and curated to perfection but

the most popular apps of all time, and redefined how

instilled with the vital sense of personality and intimacy

images are shared, seen and consumed in the digital age.

that the platform’s user-driven amateurism provides.

Further, by sharing images that have been taken by guests

At the time of writing, over 250 million posts populate the

within the restaurant, potential diners are given immediate,

‘food’ hashtag alone, many boasting thousands of likes and

bite-size reviews by their peers and strangers alike.

even more engagements. On Instagram, a simple picture of

With Instagram still a relatively young platform,

a well-presented dish can spread organically and rapidly,

we have seen a transition period wherein operators,

far beyond the reaches of traditional marketing techniques

chefs and restaurateurs have attempted to work out the

and the breadth of so-called old media.

winning formula of ‘food Instagram’, experimenting

For technologically savvy restaurateurs, this has resulted

with the presentation and aesthetics of their food, and

in an increased focus on the aesthetics and presentation

even restaurant lighting, to ascertain what works best

of their dishes, in the hope that a rainbow coloured roll

and reaches the most people without appearing forced or

of sushi or precariously stacked burger will be snapped by

sponsored. With this in mind, and with the app’s recent

diners and uploaded to the app, providing their business

addition of business analytic tools that track engagement,

with a steady stream of interest and interaction without

reach and user insights, the platform is acknowledging its

having to spend a penny.

new role, and aiding restaurants and other businesses in

This idea has already found its way into wider hotel

014

the search for viral success.

design, such as with the proliferation of inspirational

At this point it is almost an anomaly for a restaurant, of

headboard quotes that can be found in more interior-led

any type, to neglect its online and social media presence,

properties. These quotes, often in large, bold lettering, are

and the changing face of advertising and brand awareness

designed to encourage guests to take and share pictures,

has thus seen a transition of power from the agencies to

again providing the hotel with a free form of marketing

the people. However, with the added focus on presentation

that renews with each guestroom turnaround.

that Instagram has partly spurred, there has emerged the

With the platform’s sheer amount of users and the

age-old claims of style over substance. But even when

ubiquity of food across the app, it makes sense then that

presentation takes centre stage, when a restaurant relies

the dining room can capitalise. With a mix of professionally

on the guests themselves to spread the word, it is still vital

shot and vérité style F&B photography, restaurant

that the experience backs up the sepia filters.

SERVICE

“It’s so easy for designers to fall into the trap of designing something for the sake of how it photographs, but where does the physical experience come in?”

André Fu on why there’s more to F&B than appearance.

SERVICE

Different by Design Architect and interior designer André Fu is one of the most noted talents in hospitality, combining a passion for creating spatial experiences with an eye for the alternative. Through his restaurant designs he poses the question, what is a great looking space without the human element?

Words: Daven Wu

I

n person, André Fu confounds. He is one of the most

precise Hong Kong accent that betrays the crisp notes of

accomplished and celebrated interior designers of his

English boarding school and Cambridge, where he studied

generation. He has helmed a gratifyingly varied swathe of

architecture.

blue-chipped projects ranging from Restaurant Nadaman

Fu is in town for a meeting with Hyatt Hotels to discuss

at Tokyo’s Shangri-La and Hong Kong’s Upper House, to

the new Andaz project in the Duo complex, that’s been

the Clifford Pier restaurant in Singapore and the new spa,

designed by Ole Scheeren in Singapore’s Kampong Glam

bar, library and restaurant at the massive Château La Coste

quarter. The next day, he’s returning to Hong Kong at

project in Provence. He has also been particularly busy in

4.30pm. Just in this brief exchange, we get the sense that

London, recently adding the Opus Suite at the Berkeley

details and time matter and, in fact, these two elements

Hotel to his British CV that already included Selfridge’s

recur during our conversation.

Shoe Galleries, and the Sky Pool and Bar at The Shard’s Shangri-La. It might explain why it took several months to set up our

It’s revealing that Fu travels everywhere with a pile of A4 paper and a small bundle of pencils, the better to quickly record ideas and impressions. It’s an unexpectedly analogue

interview with the Hong Kong-born-and-based interior

practice, but it does signpost both the designer’s bent for

designer. When we do meet it is early evening in the Grand

the tactile and his organic approach to design itself.

Club Lounge of the Grand Hyatt in Singapore. He is already waiting with a pot of tea when we arrive.

Fu’s reputation and accomplishments don’t prepare

“Even as a child, I’ve always loved drawing,” Fu says.

“I remember when I was about six or seven, my mother told me, ‘you could be designing a hotel and tableware.’

you for just how youthful he is. Even at forty, he looks as

Somehow, this has remained in my DNA.” As it turns out,

if he could be in his early twenties, especially when he

Fu mère was unusually prescient.

breaks into his quick, disarming, almost self-conscious

It certainly helped that one branch of the family was in

smile. “I just flew in at three-thirty,” he says in a tone

the hotel business and that Fu grew up immersed in that

that’s practically apologetic for the inconvenience, as we

world. One summer when he was in his teens, he signed

settle into a mood-lit corner booth. His manners have an

up as a catering trainee in Hong Kong’s Grand Hyatt. It

Old World quality about them and he watches and listens

was there that he learnt how the front and back of house

closely, responding to questions with care and in a clear,

worked, especially in relation to the kitchen, the sequence

017

SERVICE

of tasks and moments that transform an event space

mirror-flat decorative pools – put AFSO firmly on the

within 24 hours from a meeting room to a children’s

map. “Upper House gave me the career I have,” is Fu’s

party or a wedding banquet. “I was especially fascinated

disarmingly honest assessment.

by the whole idea of the kitchen as a working machine. I loved the energy, the microcosmic nature.”

Fu says the experience helped him to start looking at

Winter, Swire’s director of operations. “Design is like

restaurant spaces in a different way. In the process he

story-telling; it could be inspired by a period of history,

realised quickly, and in a visceral way, that no textbook

or possess a certain sensitivity. André is able to approach

can ever teach you that design must have a pragmatic

design in a bespoke manner, which is tailored and

side – that it’s not just aesthetics that matter.

unique to his personal interpretation.”

In 2000, Fu, freshly graduated with his architecture

Over the years, Fu’s varying aesthetics have evolved

degree from Cambridge, set up AFSO (André Fu StudiO)

- as has his critical eye and enquiring mind - but the

in Hong Kong. But he took his time settling into the

desire to create, especially in restaurants, an emotional

commercial world, enrolling in a master’s course and

journey through a combination of comfort and relaxed

taking on a couple of private residential commissions

luxury remains strong. He acknowledges that he is

between assignments. He spent a year with John Pawson

almost obsessed by the idea of an emotional connection,

honing, one supposes, his sense of proportion and

which is provoked by the interior design.

muted colours before he returned to Hong Kong in 2003.

While he wasn’t entirely an overnight success, equally,

“It’s about the physical experience of a space, which can always be intimate even if it’s huge,” he says. “For

he didn’t have to wait long for the phone to start

instance, the Kioku restaurant at the Four Seasons Seoul

ringing. He was, he now says, “in the right place at the

has a seven-metre high ceiling. The original space was

right time.” It was the beginning of the era of the design

too overwhelming, so we brought down the scale with a

hotel and restaurant in Asia. It was also when the second

lowered ceiling and lighting so that you could experience

and third generation of Young Turks with international

the volume as a whole and not be intimidated by it.”

exposure started returning to Asia, energised with the same ideas, ambitions and tastes as Fu. With little fanfare, AFSO landed its first commission:

This ability to parse a space comes, of course, from Fu’s architectural background. But it also derives from an unusual thoughtfulness that is organic in its

the Opia restaurant at the Philippe Starck-designed Jia

universality. As Yenn Wong observes, “The attention

Hong Kong, one of Asia’s first genuine boutique hotels.

to detail in his designs is very distinctive and precise.”

At the very first meeting, its owner Yenn Wong was

This attention extends to his concern for the individual

immediately charmed by Fu.

experience, which is a thread that runs through his

“At the time, he didn’t have a huge portfolio,” she

entire portfolio, particularly in its F&B component.

recalls, “but we were sold after that first meeting with

Here, his interest lasers in on the intersection of the

him. I think it was his confidence and freshness that

restaurant’s physical space, the experience of the meal

shone through. He had thought through the whole

and the emotional resonance of the diner.

conceptual process and had a very complete perception

Fu pauses to pour more tea into his cup. His eyes

of what Opia should be. He had strong ideas and was

sweep briefly over the almost deserted Grand Club

very clear with what he was doing, which is very hard to

Lounge and we find ourselves wondering what aspect

find in a lot of designers.”

of the décor he would change. As if in response, he

Opia debuted in 2005 with a palette of lush warm

picks up the conversation in a way that takes us by

colours layered with cool tones and tactile fabrics, and

surprise. “I am interested in the physical interaction

a gentle but unmistakable waft of Pawson’s austere

between people in the context of a restaurant, but I’m

minimalism. Part swanky dining room, part soigné

not here to impose my personal aesthetic. My role is to

lounge of some louche Millennial with great taste, it

create a backdrop for people to immerse in, to have an

was an overnight sensation and generated immediate

experience and to enjoy the cuisine.”

copycats who were never quite able to recreate Fu’s deft

This fundamental approach drives all else before it. In

creation of intimacy. “It was very atmosphere-driven

the world according to André Fu, a restaurant, no matter

and the first of its kind in Hong Kong,” he says, his

how well designed, is redundant without the human

fingers tapping a quick staccato beat on the table.

element. In this meta age of social media and a global

One job led to another. Restaurants and hotels

018

“André is a designer who has a strong design language that is able to create spatial experiences,” says Dean

community driven by instantaneous communication,

dominated the client list. The spaces became larger.

“it’s so easy for designers to fall into the trap of

One day, The Swire Group came calling about its Upper

designing something for the sake of how it photographs.

House hotel. Fu’s slick vision of understated elegance –

But where does the physical experience come in?” Fu

manifested in white rooms, corridors lined in stone, and

leaves the question dangling like an architectural koan.

Kioku, Four Seasons Seoul

019

SERVICE

Le Salon, Villa La Coste, Provence

Of course, the difficulty of such an enquiry is compounded by the fact

contrast to, say, Philippe Starck whose distinctive sense of humour

that design projects have a long gestation period. “We start looking at

makes his work readily recognizable, it’s not usually immediately

hotel restaurants two or three years in advance,” Fu says, adding, “It’s

obvious that a space is designed by AFSO. Of course, Fu well is aware of

a long commitment. So, whatever we design needs to stand the test of

the cachet that his name now adds to any project. “I know people follow

time because the market evolves hugely, and the nature of kitchens has

my work or they appreciate my aesthetic, but I don’t want to conform

also evolved so much in the past decade.”

to a certain look, especially since every project is different. I respond to

There is now, he explains, a greater desire for more diverse

Waldorf-Astoria in Bangkok, or the shophouse, kampong vibe of the

we can’t help but think, repetitive. It means that a ‘trendy’ restaurant

Andaz in Singapore. The core, which is the pursuit of comfort, remains

design is anathema. Fu does not trade in trends, much less passing fads.

the same. We could be doing a version of industrial-chic, but even then,

“I especially dislike the word ‘new’,” he says. “Besides, it’s really hard

I would want to make sure it was comfortable.”

to say something is new. Invariably, it’s a derivation of something else.

By now, an early tropical dusk has settled and a gloaming light

So my approach is to aim for something that’s different. We already live

seeps through the lounge. Though Fu has an early client dinner, he is

in a world that’s overloaded with design and everyone is an expert in

courteous to the last, never once checking the time.

something.”

In a sense, then, Fu sees his role as something of a medium. He

“Are you a perfectionist?”, we ask as we start the process of wrapping up the interview. He hesitates, his response measured. “I

acknowledges that whilst he cannot create an emotion, he can certainly

am really passionate about what I do. I try to do my best every day as

provoke it. Which is why he spends so much time having extensive

I always remind myself that not many people have the same trust and

conversations with the owner, the chef and the operator. This interaction

opportunity that I do.”

allows Fu to create a set of mutually agreed deliverables as well as a

For her part, Yenn Wong has stayed a huge fan, tapping Fu to design

distinct and cohesive DNA that entwines every aspect of the restaurant,

the lobby of her Jia hotel in Shanghai in 2007. “I think André has

whether it is the colour of the menu, the shape of the flatware or

developed to become one of those designers that creates designs that

even the staff uniforms. The goal is to divine a thread and manifest a

have longevity and sustainability, but, at the same time, he’s not lost his

design that will reflect the restaurant, its physical locus and its cuisine.

distinctiveness. I would definitely like to work with him again.”

“Everything needs to be maintained in a consistent language.”

It is not to say that Fu is one who can be pigeon-holed. Perhaps in

020

the brand, whether it’s the Art Deco-inspired environment of the new

experiences, especially as the market becomes more sophisticated or,

If it’s not already clear, from a pencil and paper at six to a pencil and paper at 40, nobody bets against Mrs Fu’s boy.

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Photography: Heikki Verdume

SERVICE

Talking French After 45 years in the industry Alain Ducasse is still going strong.

We speak to the master chef about his enterprises, passion for independent hotels and why he decided to take meat off the menu at his three-Michelin star restaurant in Paris’ Plaza Athenée.

Words: Lauren Ho

I

t’s late morning on a Wednesday at The Promenade in

and talent. As a result his lucrative empire - that also

London’s Dorchester Hotel. The breakfast service is

includes cooking schools, recipe books and a network of

winding down as the preternaturally calm staff skate

European hotels - has earned him the reputation as one of

between tables pouring final coffees for lingering

the wealthiest chefs in the business.

businessmen and guests. Propped up by a cushion on one of

A man from much humbler beginnings, Ducasse grew

the green settees that lines the centre of the restaurant, it is

up on a farm in the southwest region of France. Food

tempting to be lulled by the hum of activity when, precisely

was always an important part of his life and he recalls

on time, the man himself emerges from a pair of double

the wholesome flavours of his grandmother’s cooking,

doors, above which a fixed brass plaque bears his name.

prepared with produce straight from the farm, including

Dressed in a black suit jacket with an open neck shirt -

the vegetables he helped pick from the kitchen garden.

his grey hair smoothly slicked back - Alain Ducasse has the

“I was surrounded by ducks and geese and had access to

cool, self-possessed demeanour of success. His manner is

some amazing produce such as boletus mushrooms and

brusque and as he peers cagily from behind his signature

foie gras,” says Ducasse. “I grew up appreciating these

black-rimmed spectacles. It is clear that he is a no-nonsense

ingredients and learnt to cook with them.”

sort of man. It’s precisely this attitude that has shaped his

Of course, an appreciation of food within family life is

career, becoming one of the most celebrated chefs in the

one thing, but it wasn’t until Ducasse turned 16 that he

world and often revered by industry insiders as one of the

began to sharpen his skills under the tutelage of masters

greats, comparable with legends such as Escoffier, Vergé

such as Michel Guérard, Gaston Lenôtre, Roger Vergé and

and Bocuse for his influence over French cuisine.

Alain Chapel, while discovering the flavours of Provençal

A veteran who has guided the industry for over 45 years, Ducasse might have swapped his chef whites for more

cooking, for which he has now become known.

Following a stint at Vergé’s second restaurant,

sober business attire a while ago, but far from indulging in

L’Amandier, and later at Hotel Juana’s La Terrasse, in the

long lunches on the other side of the pass, he remains fully

southeast of France – where he also gained his first two

immersed, micromanaging all aspects of his projects, from

Michelin stars - his big break came at the age of 33, when

the recipes to the interior design and even the tableware

he was awarded three Michelin stars while at the helm of Le

023

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Photography: Pierre Monetta

Louis XV, the restaurant in Monaco’s Hôtel de Paris. A few years later,

‘Frenchest’ of French chefs has gone off-piste by removing all meat

this was followed by another triple star win at his eponymous restaurant

from the menu at his three-star establishment in Paris’ Hôtel Plaza

in Paris, making him the first six-star chef in the world.

Athenée. “I wanted to show that, opposite to the image of French cuisine

Two decades and a galaxy of stars later (19 to be precise) Ducasse, to

Ducasse. “I wanted to prove that you are still able to create haute cuisine

French offerings, and of course his signature haute cuisine

using very modest, humble, peasant ingredients such as legumes,

establishments. Scattered through seven different countries across the

cereals and vegetables.” He emphasises: “This isn’t something that

globe, it is clear that food lovers from a variety of cultures will flock to

happened organically, it is something I feel very strongly about.”

a Ducasse dining room for the simple reason that he has successfully

The dishes that emerge from the kitchen, with a kind of military

translated the essence of French cuisine and service for an international

precision only an establishment of this merit can orchestrate, are –

audience, while still retaining a sense of authenticity. “It’s difficult,

simply put – a revelation. Fresh rouget – or red mullet – is spiked

because you have to preserve your own identity, while showcasing – and

with an intense liver sauce; meaty scallops, accompanied with baked

allowing people to discover – the French idea of cuisine,” says Ducasse,

cauliflower, are livened up with a sprinkling of earthy black truffle;

his white eyebrows knitted together thoughtfully. “It’s about satisfying

while a simple wheat and root vegetable concoction is served in

and matching the expectations of the clientele. I like to say that I have a

Ducasse’s trademark porcelain cookpot, a streamlined reimagining

global vision, but a local expression.”

of the traditional version, now designed by Pierre Tachon to lock in

Indeed, whether serving up contemporary plates such as homemade

flavours during slow cooking. And, as Ducasse says is characteristic of

buckwheat pasta with frog’s legs at Spoon in Hong Kong; comforting

his overall philosophy, “The idea of this dish is to use local, seasonal

home-style dishes like the beef entrecôte and fries in Tokyo’s Benoit;

vegetables, linked to the region they come from. It is representative of

or the deliciously gooey croque monsieur at Ore, his newest café in the

what I want to do: to change the way we approach food and consume

Palace of Versailles, Ducasse, over the years, has consistently delivered

less meat, fat, sugar and salt.”

quintessential French cooking. So it comes as a surprise that this

024

being heavy and complex, it can also be good for your health,” explains

date, has 23 restaurants that span from casual bistros to contemporary

The cookpot is just one example of Ducasse’s love of tableware and his

plates Junto flatware Linea Q Antique

ORGANIC SHAPES, HANDMADE LOOK, STONEWARE, PORCELAIN AND TREATED STAINLESS STEEL COME TOGETHER TO CREATE CUSTOMIZABLE AND HARMONIOUS MISE EN PLACE , REFLECTING THE LATEST TRENDS OF THE TABLETOP DESIGN.

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Photography: Pierre Monetta

microscopic involvement and attention to detail, where nothing – from

idea of independent hotels that are rooted within their regions and

the music to the thickness of the paper that the menus are printed on –

have managed to keep their character,” explains Ducasse with a shrug.

escapes his scrutiny. “I like to make all the decisions,” he affirms in his

“With my two Provençal inns, they are all about belonging to the area

clipped, matter-of-fact tone. “I am the creator and artistic director of

and understanding where the food and the people come from. They are

all of the restaurants, which includes the cuisine, but also all the details

both full of quirky collected items from local markets and artists, and

that are part of the experience. When it comes to tableware, I am really

when you arrive it’s like being welcomed into a big family.” Ducasse’s

curious about the way people feed themselves around the world. I like

eyes light up as he discusses the endeavour: “With the Châteaux &

to find objects that are different and also to use locally produced items,

Hôtels Collection, I wanted a compilation of European properties that

such as the porcelain at La Bastide.”

have their own unique characters and personalities. Each must have

By ‘La Bastide’, Ducasse means La Bastide de Moustiers, one of his two hotels in Provence. Housed in a 17th century gem, hidden among fragrant lavender bushes and olive trees, Ducasse describes

026

something different, charming and secret, so that you can go on a journey when visiting them.”

Now in his 60s, you would think taking a step back probably sounds

the hotel as an inn with a few bedrooms and a restaurant. And while

tempting for someone that has been at the forefront of his industry

this is true, with a Michelin star kitchen run by his protégé, Nicolas

for so many years. Yet Ducasse is a man with an unrelenting desire

Pierantoni, a garden that provides seasonal vegetables, herbs and fruit

to remain on the top, and with a list of upcoming projects that, in his

for the menu, and quaint offerings such as picnic baskets and bicycle

words, is too long to mention, we can’t help but wonder what keeps

rides, the intimate property perfectly sums up Ducasse’s values for

the chef so motivated. “No two days are the same. For me, it’s all about

regionality and his strong predilection for unique, independent hotels.

exceeding, getting what is seemingly not possible to get and always

So much so that in 1998 he purchased an association that was formed,

wanting more,” he says. “In the modern world, our lives are so full of

two decades previously, by a group of independent hoteliers. Now

stress and anxiety. I like to make people feel special and make sure that

called Châteaux & Hôtels Collection, the company represents over 500

they walk away with an incredible experience and a great memory. I like

boutique hotels and restaurants, mainly throughout France and Italy.

to say that I am a pedlar of dreams, memories and emotions.” And with

“I have been an innkeeper myself for more than 20 years, so I like the

that, a smile finally slides across his face.

SINGLE FAMILY ESTATE www.cognac-frapin.com

SUPPER 2 March_VSOP NEW_13032017.indd 1

09/03/2017 14:35

A Shanghai Story KokaiStudios is one of Asia’s most dynamic design studios, working on projects for the likes of St. Regis Hotels and Resorts, Marriott International and Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. We rendezvoused with its two founders, Andrea Destefanis and Filippo Gabbiani, in Shanghai to discuss renovation, originality and why it’s important to design for the client’s client.

Words: Noga Tarnopolsky

I

t is useful to think of KokaiStudios as a hybrid, like its

The Brasserie, which can host up to 120 guests, is located in

name. The founders and principals Filippo Gabbiani and

a structure originally conceived as a hospital, with an outer

Andrea Destefanis operate as two lobes of a formidably

shell that could not be touched. “Architecturally, spatially,

creative mind that has transformed the shape of

we saw the restaurant as a frame to the paining that is the

hospitality in Asia, and is now expanding to new horizons.

The Shanghai-based studio, that employs an

international crew of 42, is building some of the most

landscape outside. The restaurant becomes a filter between building and garden,” Gabbiani explains.

Destefanis laughs when saying that, “Four Seasons like

innovative and intriguing F&B spaces in the international

to call us to invent new brands for projects in impossible

hotel scene and taking its malleable interpretation of

locations. Kyoto is the temple of traditional Japanese food.

hospitality into standalone establishments.

Billionaires take helicopters to Kyoto for a weekend to eat

As part of their worldwide contract for Four Seasons

at a restaurant they reserved six months earlier. In that

Hotels and Resorts, in November 2016 KokaiStudios

competitive environment, every restaurant they had tried

completed The Brasserie, the flagship - and only-

before had failed.”

restaurant in Kyoto’s revamped Four Seasons. Among

The Kokai guys decided to take the inside-outside

other challenges, the indoor-outdoor establishment - that

concept in a direction no one had tried before: “While the

includes an airy lounge with 12-metre ceilings - had to

place looks like a traditional Japanese restaurant, the food

incorporate an 800-year-old ikeniwa, or pond garden,

is very high-level French,” says Destefanis. For Gabbiani,

mentioned in a 12th-century epic poem, and was limited by

“the challenge was to create an environment that would

the rules governing UNESCO-protected sites.

meet the expectations of the hotel’s clientele and offer

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Andrea Destefanis and Filippo Gabbiani

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Brasserie, Four Seasons Kyoto

“When we are designing a space we don’t design for our client, but for the client of our client”

of Venice’s University of Architecture, have been based in China since 2002 - what they call the “lifechanging year” - when a Taiwanese developer asked them to bring Bund 18 back to its former glory. The stunning 1923 building was originally constructed as the China headquarters for the Chartered Bank of India

something completely different, but at the level they

Australia and China and had fallen into catastrophic

expect.”

disrepair during half a century of use as office space for

It is not a new way of thinking for the duo. They designed SinToHo, a pan-Asian Singapore-Tokyo-Hong

“When we arrived we found there was something

Kong-style loft at St. Petersburg’s Four Seasons Hotel

missing in this country,” Gabbiani recalls. “China was in

Lion Palace and are now working on Ai Forni, a high-

a situation of hyper-development in terms of quantity

end Italian for the Four Seasons Kuwait, scheduled to

but suffered from extremely poor quality. In general

open later this year.

people would swoop in, build something, take the money

“We don’t like to express ‘ourselves,’” Destefanis

and run. It was very bad for the country and for the

says with emphasis. “When we are designing a space

people. We brought a different concept of work: social

we don’t design for our client, but for the client of our

architecture.” The partners shut down their Italian

client.” Such as the Kyoto billionaires he mentioned

operation and moved to Shanghai.

before. “We are not interested in making ‘beautiful

“People would ask us ‘what are you doing?’”

restaurants’ but in making restaurants that work.

Destefanis, a native of Turin, recalls. “We’d say ‘we’re

We have a very strong empathy for the materials, an

doing renovations.’ At the time it sounded insane.

empathy for people and the environment around them,”

Now it has been 15 years of us telling people, look,

he concludes.

you don’t just flatten cities down and rebuild. It is not

The name Kokai sounds Asian but is, in fact, the

030

government bureaucrats.

sustainable.” Bund 18, the entire building, including the

Venetian dialect’s word for seagulls, which is “gabbiani”

iconic restaurant Mrs & Mrs Bund and the rooftop Bar

in Italian. Gabbiani and Destefanis, both graduates

Rouge, won a UNESCO award for preservation in 2006.

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Decanter, The St. Regis Chengdu

“We’re the Asian vanguard, with an Italian spirit.

Our projects have a lot of heart”

obtain in Venetian glassmaking.” Fingerprints are not a metaphor. “I hung it with my own hands,” Gabbiani notes.

“We’re the Asian vanguard, with an Italian spirit,” says Henri Fruchet, 41, a genial Montrealer who is the company’s business development director. “Our projects

Iconoclastic hybridity seems to be KokaiStudios’ only guiding line. Gabbani, a native of Venice who first saw

Their latest local venture is Shake, the city’s first soul

China in his early twenties as a backpacker, considers

music lounge. It is at once an homage to 1960s-era New

himself at least half-Asian. He started judo at age

York supper clubs, an identification with the Gallic love

six. “Venice is not a European city,” he says. “It gets

of African American music, and an acknowledgement

nothing from Europe. It is an Asian city of Marco Polo

of Shanghai’s history as a French protectorate— all

and sandalwood. Venice’s modern architecture is

swathed by an ideology committed to the reuse of

strongly influenced by Japan.” That said, he is deeply

crumbling buildings. “We like urban spaces,” Fruchet

rooted in a multi-generational family of Venetian

says. “You won’t find KokaiStudios in the suburbs.”

glassmakers. The breathtaking lacquer-red Venetian

Shake is spacious, dark and sleek, with an up-lit,

glass chandelier he installed in Bund 18’s foyer is so

angular mirrored bar from which an oval shelf of

memorable it was adopted as the building’s corporate

bottles hangs. A long wall of exposed brick provides a

logo. The custom-made masterwork could serve as

comforting contrast.

Gabbiani’s professional autobiography. “I was designing

032

have a lot of heart.”

After more than 300 projects in Shanghai, why a bar?

chandeliers with my mother when I was 20 years old.

As Destefanis says, “We love live music.” Following

We have this theory that when you work on a renovation

on, Gabbiani adopts a more fluid stance. “We designed

it’s important you leave a signature behind, something

it because we liked the idea. Our projects don’t have a

about having passed by. The chandelier has fingerprints

specific style. Sometimes people feel it and they get it,

from Venice and at the same time it is the colour red, a

and call us and say, ‘I felt that project, was it one of

feng shui symbol of good luck and the hardest colour to

yours?’ and that is what we hope for.”

Photography: Gregory J Buda

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Shake a Tail Head bartender of New York’s BlackTail Bar, Jesse Vida discusses bringing the concept to London as part of The Bloomsbury Hotel’s Residency Project and explains why, for him, just being good is never good enough.

Words: Holly Motion

N

estled in the chambers of a Grade II listed

Head of Bars Brian Calleja handed over the jigger to his

building is an increasingly not-so-secret

second residency counterpart, Jesse Vida. His beloved

pocket of history: The Bloomsbury Club Bar at

Bloomsbury couldn’t have been in safer hands. Vida, a self-

The Bloomsbury Hotel. Polished wood, leather

professed workaholic originally from San Francisco, has just

armchairs and bookish charm transport guests to bygone

been crowned New York Rising Star Bartender and works at

time. Once inside it’s hard to comprehend you are just

one of the most famous bars in the world, BlackTail at Pier

moments from one of the busiest throughfares in the

A in lower Manhattan, sister to the award-winning Dead

British capital.

Rabbit Grocery and Grog. When he’s not behind the bar he

The literary connection and deference to the Bloomsbury Set is evident after stepping through the doors. There’s a

works part-time for House Spirits Distillery in Oregon.

When we sat down to talk about his team turning the

quiet respect for the early 20th century intellectuals, writers

Bloomsbury Club Bar in London into 1920s Havana, he’d just

and artists who gravitated towards one another in the

endured a red-eye flight, but showed no signs of jetlag. This

nearby area. The Bloomsbury Set was creative, enigmatic

is a man well used to surviving on a mere five hours sleep.

and iconic and the bar aims to capture that essence.

In the spirit of sharing ideas and vision, The Bloomsbury

“I got approached to work for the distillery right around the time that Jack McGarry [the Belfast-born co-founder

launched its Residency Project in October last year. For

of Dead Rabbit] asked me if I was interested in BlackTail,”

three days The Bloomsbury Club Bar combines with an

he says, with a relaxed voice and a grin that immediately

international venue, with its concept and a skeleton team

puts you at ease. “I was working at Dead Rabbit at the time

taking residency in the historic building. First up was The

and there was a tonne of question marks about BlackTail,

Clumsies bar from Athens.

so I said no to Jack and I took the job with House Spirits.”

In early spring, 10-year veteran and Bloomsbury Hotel’s

It took the other co-owner Sean Muldoon to sit him down

035

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BlackTail, NYC

and explain the plan before Vida would accept. “Obviously it was a good

important we are historically accurate. Jack McGarry recently said: ‘we

move for my career,” he says.

don’t go into a space and think of a concept. We think of a concept and

Now he is taking BlackTail international at The Bloomsbury. “We

Vida says his favourite picture is of the black tail fleet flying over

are setting everything up and want to bring the experience of BlackTail

the BlackTail site in Battery Park. Co-owner Muldoon and the creative

to London. This is a very important project for us as it’s the first real

team in Belfast put the story and concept together, and it was Vida’s

international one we’ve done and we want to give a taste of BlackTail to

job to create the drinks. “It took a solid three months and it was quite

everyone who hasn’t been able to visit us across the pond.”

an experience,” Vida says. “We found a bunch of old books. Basically

So what made The Bloomsbury Hotel the right fit? “It just made

anything from 1910 to 1950 was fair game. We wanted to use all of

sense,” he says. “It’s very similar in the time period and the artistry

the tools and products we have available now but we wanted to be

of BlackTail. I’ve done a tonne of research on The Bloomsbury and it is

reminiscent of how people were drinking at that time.”

very representative of a certain time – a time of a more philosophical,

Vida was sick of the sight of cocktails by the end of the process, but

thoughtful people. Even the dark mahogany and forest green colour

says it undoubtedly honed his skills. “I’m at a point now where you can

scheme is very similar to BlackTail.”

point me to an ingredient and I know if it’s going to work.”

BlackTail takes its name from a fleet of luxury airliners replete with

The 40-strong cocktail menu is broken into five sections: Highball,

painted black tails, called the High Ball Express, that would pick up bon

Punch, Sour, Old-Fashioned and Cocktail. “We feel like our drinks have

vivants in Prohibition New York and fly them to Cuba. Once on the plane

to be the best,” he says. “You will never try a drink at BlackTail or at The

passengers were officially on international waters and were flown to

Parlor in Dead Rabbit that is a filler drink. Every one has to be great”.

Havana for one reason: to drink.

“BlackTail not only represents the American bar in Havana,” Vida says. “It represents a specific time. During Prohibition in the US, Havana was not only a place to go and drink, it was a scene. If it were today

036

find a space for it’.”

are never going to jump into a place and do a pop-up,” Vida says. “We

Asked to pick a favourite, Vida smiles: “Pick a kid, you say? I have preferences in each section that are preferable to my palate, but every person is different.”

At The Bloomsbury Residency, Vida and his team only draw from four:

it is where people would be taking pictures of A-list stars. Al Capone,

the deceptively simply named Rum & Cola, King Cole, Alexander and

Ernest Hemingway, and Ava Gardner - these people were all drinking

Nacional.

there, hanging out and partying. So we want to capture that fun, lively

When it comes to what makes a good cocktail bar – and Vida should

atmosphere.” But BlackTail is not style over substance, Vida says. “It’s

know, having worked at The Dead Rabbit for two-and-a-half years prior

SERVICE

The Cocktails: Rum & Cola Cuban rum, Italian amaro, Coca-Cola, champagne, The Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Decanter Bitters Serve style: Highball King Cole Rye Whiskey, pineapple rum, French ambre vermouth, Italian amaro, cacao Serve style: Old Fashioned Alexander Brandy de Jerez, dark Guyanese rum, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, banana, Curaçao, cream, mole bitters Serve style: Cocktail Nacional Cuban rum, French bitters, apricot, banana, pineapple, lime, yuzu Serve style: Punch

Alexander

to taking the job at BlackTail – he says the drinks have to be good and

but Vida and his bosses are aiming high. “We didn’t open BlackTail to be

they have to be well executed. “That said,” he’s quick to add, “that’s not

a good bar,” he says. “We opened it to be the best bar and it’s the same

the most important part by a mile. We have all had that experience when

way we feel about Dead Rabbit. Said with my heart on my sleeve and

you go to some cocktail bar and there is the typical looking cocktail

without disrespect to other bars, we are not trying to just be top five, we

bartender and he or she treats you like it is your privilege to be at the

want to be number one. That is our goal and that is our mind set.”

bar. You don’t go back to bars like that. You go to bars that treat you well

BlackTail are pitted against each other, Vida is quick to interject: “Oh,

under-appreciated and under-executed.

you mean when BlackTail beats Dead Rabbit?” He laughs and says, “It’s

“While there can be a rock star element to being a bartender – you

funny, of course there is a friendly competition there. That would be

get to travel internationally, you can be in the newspaper and be on

a great day if it comes and I think everybody would be happy about it.

TV – you can never forget that what we do is serve people. We are in a

Dead Rabbit will always be Dead Rabbit. It will always be one of the best

position of humility to start.”

bars in the world. BlackTail is still pretty young but we are certainly

Although it’s only his second time in London, Vida has his favourites and is acutely aware of the different bar scene of which the residency is a part.

“Obviously New York and London are the two major cities when it

chasing them and we want to be in that conversation.”

Vida is always looking ahead. “I think you have to. This business is great in that it has come so far, but bartending has a shelf life. It is very labour intensive working in cocktail bars. The way I have always

comes to cocktails,” he says. “There are a lot of great London bars. It is

approached my career is that I am very methodical, and it has paid off.

very different in the style of cocktail and the style of bar to New York.

I’m very step-by-step. I turned down being a head bartender four times

The most obvious thing that stands out is that the garnish is huge in

before I accepted this position. They were good bars and good people but

London whereas it is very minimal in the US. We are more technically

I just knew I had more to learn. I never wanted to just be good at my job,

and classically driven.” He names Dandelyan at Mondrian Hotel and

I wanted to be the best at my job. My biggest drive and ambition is to be

bartender-favourite Happiness Forgets as his top two.

the best I can be. Not necessarily better than someone else, just to tap

“I felt the cocktails at Dandelyan were the most similar to the American palate. They really care about the balance of ingredients and

into maximising everything that I can do.”

In terms of the immediate future when we speak, Vida and his team

I thought it was great.” As for Happiness Forgets, “It was just fun. If I

have to maximise on its four cocktails and churn out thousands of

lived here, then that is the cocktail bar I would go to every other week.”

world-class, classic drinks that – like the stories of Prohibition New

BlackTail may have only recently celebrated its six-month birthday

038

Asked what will happen when the current world’s best bar and

and I think that’s something that has improved a lot, but it’s still vastly

York - are worthy of the history books.

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STARTERS xxx

Pó The Warehouse Hotel, Singapore

Singapore is a city often defined by its pluralism: shaped by a fusion of

serving up local classics and elevated Singaporean staples. Chef Wilin Low

Asian cultures, its colonial heritage and its continued position as a modern

- a pioneer of the Mod-Sin food movement - partnered with the hotel in

day crossroads. At The Warehouse Hotel, all of these elements manifest in

the development of the culinary programme, whilst a tightly curated drinks

a project that feels as characteristically Singaporean as it’s possible to be

offer sees a focus on premium craft Asian spirits, fine wines and cocktails

in a metropolis sometimes thought of as lacking a unique identity.

that chart the various stages of Singapore’s history.

A refurbished warehouse, as the name suggests, it sits on the Singapore

The design is referential in approach: the rattan so associated with the

River, formerly part of one of the most important trade routes in the world.

city’s colonial aesthetic imagined as wall art and white wooden shutters

In the early 1900s, the neighbourhood was a hotbed of secret societies,

flanking the windows. Tableware evokes the well-worn feel of an established

illicit activities and liquor distilleries, and - whilst the seedy reputation of

neighbourhood eatery and is a mix of classic pieces – chipped and scarred in

yore has long dissipated - there are nods to this stirring past throughout.

places - the work of local ceramicists and contemporary items from Steelite.

Pó, the hotel’s signature restaurant - developed by Lo & Behold Group and designed by Asylum - consciously straddles tradition and modernity

www.thewarehousehotel.com

IN A BITE Covers: 52 • Owner: I Associated Company • Operator: The Lo & Behold Group • Architecture: Zarch • Interior Design: Asylum • Executive Chef: William Lim • Tableware: Steelite • Cocktail Serveware: Bespoke Barware • Tea Curation: A.muse Projects

041

STARTERS

Photography: Nick Simonite / Casey Dunn

LaVenture Hotel Saint George, Marfa

Small in size but big in reputation, the Texan town of Marfa is synonymous

Institute of America and who has held positions at the likes of The Little

with art and culture. But despite being home to a colony of respected artists

Nell Hotel and Ajax Tavern in Aspen. The menu is concise and to the point,

and noted for the perennially photographed Prada Marfa, it had no high-

but with a clear point of view, featuring hand-rolled garganelli pasta,

end hotel until the opening of Hotel Saint George.

seared diver scallops and a Black Angus ribeye.

Billed as ‘distinctly Marfa’, the hotel wears its civilised credentials on

With interiors by the Dallas office of HKS Architects, LaVenture sits

its sleeve with an independent bookstore and walls hung with works by

somewhere between modern gallery space and cool 80s loft in its design.

artists who either make their home in West Texas or have connections to

The walls showcase the fabric of the building - some bare brick, whilst

the area, including Charline von Heyl, Christopher Wool and Jeff Elrod.

others are painted a crisp white - and chairs in black leather with steel arms

LaVenture, the hotel’s sole restaurant, deals in contemporary American

sit atop a concrete floor, softened slightly with clashing patterned rugs.

cooking with French and Italian flavours. It’s helmed by Chef Allison Jenkins, who trained at Le Cordon Bleu in London and The Culinary

www.marfasaintgeorge.com

IN A BITE Covers: 74 • Executive Chef: Allison Jenkins • Head Bartender: Richard Fallon • Interior Design: HKS Architects • Architecture: Carlos Jimenez Studio Owner: Tim Crowley • Tableware: Varick Café • Glassware: Luigi Bormioli • Cutlery: La Tavola, Zwilling J.A. Henckels • Napkins: Garnier-Thiebaut

042

STARTERS xxx

Photography: Francis Amiand

Restaurant Schönemann Sofitel Frankfurt Opera

Designed by Studio Marc Hertrich & Nicolas Adnet (MHNA), Restaurant

pieces for buffet presentation.

Schönemann at Sofitel Frankfurt Opera is a playful space that combines

The restaurant is French in menu concept and the culinary offer is

the sharpness of design associated with Sofitel and a sense of whimsy

dedicated to Goethe’s great love, Lili Schönemann. The references to

in unusual colour combinations and unconventional furnishings – all

Goethe and Schönemann are intended to resonate with the hotel’s location

designed especially for the project by MNHA.

in the banking district of the city, sitting as it does with the upmarket

Decadent photography lines the walls, evoking a fairy tale sense of eccentricity and resonating with the accents found on the fabrics and

Hochstraße on one side and facing the Opernplatz – the district’s most central square.

fixtures. Large-scale geometric lighting hangs confidently above centre

“The atmosphere must be composed of a touch of modernity and a touch

seating, with bell jars dotted around, ensconcing ornate glassware and

of classicism,” says Nicolas Adnet. “We like to reference the countries

continuing the fanciful attitude that characterises the space.

we’re working in, but we like to generate an unexpected answer. It’s about

In the specification of the restaurant, the hotel worked with a variety of suppliers: Jars Ceramistes and Bernardaud plates and dishes with

a balance between the past and the future, extracting the most important ideas and presenting them in a contemporary way.”

Sambonet cutlery for lunch and dinner service, and Tafelstern and WMF for breakfast. Glassware is from Schott Zwiesel with Craster providing the

www.sofitel.com

IN A BITE Covers: 80 restaurant, 50 terrace, 20 private dining Interior Design: Studio Marc Hertrich & Nicolas Adnet Architecture: Mathias von Fragstein Operator: Executive Chef: Sébastien Fontes (hotel), Lukas Sulik (restaurant) Head Bartender: Ran Hoch Tableware: Jars Ceramistes, Bernardaud, Tafelstern Glassware: Schott Zwiesel Cutlery: Sambonet Buffet: Cra’ster Uniforms: ASTVDIO Menu Design: H-Hospitality Table Linens: Garnier-Thiebaut Back Bar Design: Chefs Culinar

044

Creating Hospitality

Blossom Hotel Unique floral Elegance

Villeroy & Boch S.Ă .r.l.

Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 ¡ Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel

VLH_17555 AZ Blossom Supper Magazin_236x275mm_plus3_RZ.indd 1

01.03.17 13:09

STARTERS xxx

Photography: Yael Engelhart

RoofTop Bar The Poli House, Tel Aviv

Looming over the once neglected but now invitingly rakish Magen David

Tapping the area’s café culture, The Poli House has developed a unique

Square, The Poli House is perhaps the most boisterous newcomer to a

collaboration with the popular Loveat organic café, creating a private

rediscovered neighbourhood known for its cheap-but-cool food options

entrance reserved exclusively for hotel guests and a dedicated terrace

and burgeoning bar scene.

as a ‘secret’ breakfast garden, shielded from the hubbub of the bustling

Until this decade a derelict shell that served only as a canvas for graffiti,

intersection just beyond its walls.

the 1930s building has been restored to its Bauhaus glory by Nitza Szmuk

The Poli House is ultimately an experimental project for Brown Hotels.

Architects and houses 40 rooms and suites designed by ‘starchitect’ Karim

It represents something of a departure for the group that has another two

Rashid in his first project in the city. It also features a rooftop bar with

Brown-branded locations in the city, and further offshoots in Jerusalem

seductive views across the skyline and a street-level lounge where guests

and on the Dalmatian coastline in Croatia – each with its own distinct

can slink into bubble chairs for refreshments and respite.

character and noted for a sophisticated approach to F&B, that at The Poli

The full service RoofTop Bar sees expert mixologists spinning shakers

House is usurped by a more dynamic sensibility.

while homegrown DJs spin records, providing a high-octane pull for city residents and hotel guests alike, and also serving as a venue for private poolside events.

www.thepolihouse.com

IN A BITE Owner: The Dayan Group • Operator: Brown Hotels • Interior Design: Karim Rashid • Uniform Design: Rima Romano • Menu Design: Studio Rood • Key Drinks Suppliers: LVMH (Belvedere, Moët & Chandon)

046

visit us: HOFEX, Hong Kong

NRA, Chicago

08.-11.05.2017 20.-23.05-2017

booth 1B342 booth 7049

GERMANY

“Mercato“

“Cuspis“

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“You have never seen

wine like this!“

NOVELTIES 2017

Silvio Nitzsche WEIN | KULTUR | BAR, Dresden

ON I S O VI IDE THE

V

• lead-free crystal • each single glass a unique piece • top-quality craftsmanship NOSTALGIC

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W W W. Z I E H E R . C O M

STARTERS

xxx

Morah JW Marriott Marquis, Dubai

Located on the 71st and 72nd floors of the world’s tallest hotel, Morah

nostalgic back-bar is lined with antiqued mirror to reflect the panoramic

at the JW Marriott Marquis in Dubai is an extension of the Byblos brand

views of the Dubai skyline.

popularised in Toronto and Miami Beach.

In cuisine the bar and restaurant features a meeting of Mediterranean

Brought to life by Navigate Design and operated by Icon Arabia, the

and Middle Eastern. The menu features boldly flavoured sharing plates

140-cover restaurant has been tailored for the competitive Dubai dining

such as 14-hour roasted lamb with sumac and house lavash; a dedicated

market with a renewed emphasis on finish and a sense of spectacle.

variety of Turkish pide with the likes of wagyu lahmeh; and a selection of

Benefitting from 270-degree views, Morah features a sculptural staircase and flowing forms – part of Navigate Design’s efforts to soften

small plates that includes Persian kale with halloumi and tahighurt, and roasted cauliflower with green tahini sauce and za’atar.

the architecturally star-shaped space. The concentric design is also echoed

Dishes are served on custom Jono Pandolfi plates, handmade in New

in the ceiling, where wooden flower petals are staggered inside a circular

York, as well as pieces from Steelite, Fortessa, Churchill and Dudson.

light cove.

Glassware is supplied by Muddle Me whilst cutlery is from Puddifoot.

Serving a selection of cocktails and mocktails, the 35-foot main bar features hand-carved wood scalloping in a satin lacquer finish, whilst the

www.morahdubai.com

IN A BITE Operator: Icon Arabia • Covers: 140 • Executive Chef: Stuart Cameron • Head Bartender: Isaac Viner • Tableware: Steelite, Jono Pandolfi, Fortessa, Dudson, Churchill • Glassware: Muddle Me • Cutlery: Puddifoot

048

CREATIVE DESIGN, LUXURY HOSPITALITY Specialists in design-led tableware, barware and decorative accessories

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Supper advert - 140317.indd 3

horeca.lsa-international.com

hospitality@lsa-international.com

14/03/2017 16:08

Cucina Angelina Portetta, Courchevel Words: Harry McKinley

Whilst skiing itself is a reasonably egalitarian

for the 2011-2012 ski season, Courchevel was

pastime, there’s no denying that the hospitality

rebranded, with the villages renamed to reduce

bubble that surrounds it is deeply segmented.

the lofty association with altitude.

Certain destinations carry more cachet than

Courchevel, Couchevel Moriond, Courchevel

perception of prestige that exists with one

Village and Courchevel Le Praz – but there’s an

hotel versus another. This may sound like a

increasing sense that each village is building

description of travel at large, but ski resorts have

upon its own inimitable charms and, whilst the

a characteristic tendency to wear their distinct

perceived distinctions in esteem arguably still

identities on their sleeves.

exist, each caters to a distinct customer.

Courchevel, in the French Alps, is perhaps most

Portetta, in Courchevel 1650, is the only hotel

known for Courchevel 1850, the highest resort

from Lime Wood Group and Home Grown Hotels

and a notorious playground for the super wealthy.

outside of the UK, where its Lime Wood and

One of the most expensive areas in the world to

The Pig hotels deal in food-centric, laid back

buy property and with some of the priciest hotels

experiences. The group’s unfussy, comfortable

and chalets in the ski sector, its reputation is

sensibility is reflected in the ski-in, ski-out

further cemented by the regularly photographed

Portetta which - with 38 rooms, 6 lofts and a

celebrities, politicians and royalty that flock to its

collection of private mountain lodges – forgoes

slopes.

ostentatious pizazz in favour of wood fired pizzas

This sense of gloss, however, has had the

050

Today, few guests use the new monikers –

others and, even then, there’s often a dominant

and informal indulgence. It’s a fitting venue for

effect of somewhat reducing the standing of the

Courchevel 1650, which is the figuratively more

resort’s other key destinations: Courchevel 1650,

chilled sibling to the flashier 1850. Here, the guest

Courchevel 1550 and Courchevel 1300. It’s why,

emphasis is less on show and more on snow.

MAIN COURSE

Tiramisu on Spode plate

051

052

MAIN COURSE

Cucina Angelina Interior.

Bruschetta with mushrooms.

Opened for the 2015-2016 ski season, the hotel’s

previously,” says Elton, “and we wanted some inspiration.

restaurant and bar Cucina Anglina is in effect just months

As the Savoyard region was part of Italy originally, it

old considering it shutters for most of the year when

provided an opportunity for us to expand with Angela and

Portetta closes post winter.

bring Italian and Savoyard food together.”

Helmed by Chef Angela Hartnett, its character is one

Hartnett’s Italian ancestry has informed much of her

of effortless style and it replaces the hotel’s previous

cooking style and the nation’s culinary traditions form the

restaurant and bar. The change is something David Elton,

basis of her London restaurant, Murano. At Cucina Angelina

director at Lime Wood Group, describes as “evolved rather

the Italian inspiration is more rustic, less refined and with

than contrived”, with the redesign handled in-house to,

the informal sensibility that applies to Portetta as a whole.

“keep it simple” – a mantra that runs throughout Portetta.

“I like the idea of family sharing style and we encourage all

“We wanted a more cohesive concept and this to be evident immediately upon entering the hotel from the

the guests to do this,” she says.

The menu is a hearty assortment of comfort foods,

slopes – one that would attract people from outside as

from robust pasta dishes and succulent meats to lighter

well as residents,” Elton explains. “The previous offer was

salads with rich Italian cheeses and sensitively prepared

formal French: white tablecloths, formal chairs and white

vegetables. The grill provides a popular showcase for diners,

columns with gilt Louis XV faux style embellishments.

with chefs carving great slabs of different cuts and casting

Now it’s more snug and woody with an open fire, a range

them down onto the sizzling metal, clouds of savoury

of rich Mulberry fabrics covering the oversized sofas and

smoke mushrooming sporadically. “I’m not a fan of the idea

chairs, and rustic old rugs. It provides a terrific backdrop

of signature dishes,” says Hartnett, “but Peter Hannan’s

to the Italian food and wine, whilst also acknowledging the

beef is unmissable.” Hannan Meats’ Shorthorn beef is bred

Savoyard location. The goal was to have people immediately

in Northern Ireland and extra-aged in a Himalayan salt

feel welcome.”

chamber for a concentrated, sweet flavour.

The sense of cosiness, but with just enough polish to

The tabletop at Cucina Angelina continues the relaxed

suggest luxury, is part of Cucina Angelina’s success and it

character but introduces a country touch, with Spode plates

strikes an appropriate tone for its location – with guests

featuring illustrations of pastoral scenes and floral motifs,

returning from a morning or afternoon on the slopes and

and hardwearing Villeroy & Boch glassware.

gleefully collapsing onto cushioned banquettes.

The newly introduced Italian element comes courtesy of

If the goal of Cucina Angelina is to create a desirable eating and drinking spot that reflects the attitude of the area but

the hotel’s also newly introduced chef: Angela Hartnett.

presents an alternative take, then it’s fulfilled the brief. It’s

She has previously worked closely with Lime Wood Group,

refreshing in its familiarity and leaves just enough room

partnering at Lime Wood in the New Forest with the hotel’s

within the expected for the unexpected.

head chef Luke Holder and serving on the board of Home Grown Hotels, of which The Pigs are a part.

www.portetta.com

“We were not happy with the food and the restaurant

IN A BITE Executive Chef: Angela Hartnett • Head Bartender: George Hamson • Operator: Lime Wood Group • Tableware: Portmeirion Group • Glassware: Villeroy & Boch • Cutlery: BOS Equipement Hotelier

053

Slow cooked quail breast, pan-fried foie gras, sweet potatoes, roasted coffee sauce

054

MAIN COURSE

The Strand Restaurant The Strand, Yangon Words: Lauren Ho

L

ocated on the Bay of Bengal with Thailand, Laos,

innovation and no real ‘wow’ factor. Christian goes out

China, India and Bangladesh as its neighbours,

of his way to find the best quality; he wants to find that

Burma’s advantageous position has not only defined

specific farmer who grows the mini herbs and the little

much of its turbulent past, but it has also created a

baby carrots.”

distinct cultural blend that has influenced the country’s religion, language, arts, and of course, its cuisine.

While travel to Myanmar – as it is now officially

In reality, it is a concept probably easier said than done in a country that is only just meandering into the 21st century. “When I first arrived, all of

known – was once the reserve of the intrepid few who

the imported products available were frozen,” says

were prepared to navigate the limited connectivity of a

Martena in exasperation. “It was very difficult for me

country under cloistered military rule, a governmental

to work under those conditions.” Admittedly not one

change in attitude over the past five years has seen a

to rest on his laurels, the chef accepted the challenge,

spike in tourism, prompting eager visitors to scramble

spending six months – while the hotel was closed for

aboard the vastly improved domestic airlines in a race

renovation – wooing French and Italian food import

to experience the temple-strewn plains of Bagan or the

companies and travelling around the country sussing

glassy vistas of Inle Lake.

out local farmers. The result is a menu with the likes of

In Yangon, the country’s effervescent capital city,

fresh oysters, Hokkaido scallops, Mediterranean John

international hotel operators are emerging at a steady

Dory, black truffle and fresh vegetables from Fresco, a

pace, with super brands such as Kempinski and

business – owned by local agronomist and fellow Italian

Peninsula Hotels already staking their claim. So it makes

Paolo Cerati – that grows clean products using natural

sense then that The Strand, Myanmar’s most iconic

fertiliser. “We have started a cooperative with Fresco,

colonial landmark – and indeed one of the oldest hotels

which oversees different farmers around Inle Lake and

in the world – has followed suit with a recent overhaul

checks the quality of the fruit and vegetables,” says

that includes spruced-up interiors and a refreshed F&B

Martena. “We are also the first to import fresh products

concept lead by Italian chef Christian Martena.

into the country, but we are still not complete because

“The tourism business has started to come back to Myanmar, so we decided to make something out of it and revive everything,” says Olivier Trinquand, the

we wish to have caviar and beautiful cheeses, so we are fighting to get these.”

The hunt for these top-notch ingredients seems to

hotel’s vice president. Mark Murraybrown, the operation

have paid off for Martena, who is now happily churning

manager agrees: “We wanted to make it the Strand of

out slick dishes such as chilled burrata soup topped with

old - the meeting place for everybody. And while there

a sharp cherry tomato sorbet; or deliciously rich pan-

was no problem with the food at all, there was very little

fried foie gras served with stuffed ravioli and a fragrant

055

MAIN COURSE

duck consommé. This is further enhanced by the restaurant’s new look

traditional family-style Myanmar menu, devised specifically for sharing.

that, less colonial and more neoteric in flavour, creates a wholly modern

Traditional must-tries such as a fishy breakfast soup staple called

European experience. Dressed by Bangkok-based P49Deesign – which

mohinga, are perfectly executed with accuracy and grace.

was also behind the rest of the hotel’s makeover – the room’s original

The culinary journey continues aboard The Strand Cruise, where

elements, like the grand supporting pillars, have been painted an inky

Martena, who was keen on variety, has assembled a thoughtful itinerary

black to match the gleaming chequerboard floor tiles and the high-

of daily-changing menus with a theme, from Myanmar food to outdoor

backed leather banquettes that skirt the edges of the room. Meanwhile,

barbecues. “I wanted the food at the hotel and on the cruise to have

gossamer drapes soften the otherwise masculine monochromatic mood,

a connection,” he explains. “But what I tried to do on the cruise was

which is in direct contrast to the decorative tones of the bright all-day

to give people some diversity. We really want people to feel they are

dining café at the front of the hotel. Here, preserved teak wall panels and

dining in a different restaurant every time they eat.” Also outfitted

gently whirring ceiling fans have been tarted up with lipstick red wicker

by P49 Deesign, the riverboat is a modern take on colonial charm

furnishings and custom-designed embellished wallpaper that, on closer

with a spacious restaurant that runs the width of the vessel, allowing

inspection, depicts snapshots of local life.

views from either side, making it ideal to watch the world go by while

Of course, while Martena’s passion is for avant-garde Mediterranean

slowly meandering along the Irrawaddy River. Warm burnt orange and

cooking, his role as the executive chef for both the hotel and its sister

mushroom tones are revealed through soft cushions and rattan wicker

luxury riverboat excursion, The Strand Cruise, has meant a broader

- used both as wall panelling and for the furnishings – while concealed

focus on the guest experience; another challenge for the chef, who has

lighting highlights shelves displaying traditional Burmese lacquerware.

never worked in a hotel before. Yet, for his lack of background in this

Charmingly, much of the staff on both the cruise and in the hotel are

sector, not least his unfamiliarity with the local cuisine, Martena has

long-term Strand employees who, at Trinquand’s insistence, were to

come up trumps with a thorough menu that covers all bases and is

remain on the team. And while the service, according to Murraybrown,

skilfully executed with authenticity and flair. “My first step was to eat

needed a bit of polishing up, Martena is adamant that it’s the warmth

what the locals eat, then I’d visit other places to try and compare and

of the Myanmar people that the guests really come to The Strand for.

see what we can bring on top of it,” says Martena. “You are not alone in

“Technique you can teach, but kindness you can’t. That is the base

the kitchen. I have three ladies who look after the Asian cuisine, who are

of hospitality,” he says. “I am lucky, because the staff here have a

just incredible. I learnt a lot from them and I really trust my staff.” As

beautiful kindness with our guests, which is the best thing I can ask

such, an assortment of international options - from a creamy chicken

for.” Murraybrown agrees: “The local staff, with their warmth and their

and mushroom pie to the crowd-pleasing burger - are available, along

kindness is essential for us. It is essential for The Strand.”

with classic Asian offerings such as a tasty wonton soup and a sweet chilli and oyster sauce Thai stir fry. The star of the show though, is the

www.hotelthestrand.com

IN A BITE Covers: 40-45 • Executive Chef: Christian Martena • Interior Design: P49 Deesign • Operator: GCP Hospitality • Tableware: Yamaka • Glassware: Riedel, Schott Zwiesel • Cutlery: Hepp • Uniforms: John pellegrini (senior consultant: WearWork) • Customisable Silverware: Kyaw Soe Moe, Golden Paradise (Arts and Crafts)

056

TIGERHOTEL INTRODUCING T-COLLECTION...

Scandinavian design is a design movement characterized by simplicity, minimalism and functionality that emerged in the five Nordic countries of Finland, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and Denmark.

Scandinavian design tries to humanize by the use of natural materials such as wood, glasses, leather etc. and to democratize by the use of innovative techniques to make objects in series at reasonable prices because it believes that beautiful and functional everyday objects should also affordable.

Inspired by this design idea, Tiger has launched series of products under T-Collection such as induction chafing dishes, rectangular carving station with its new heating lamps, juice dispenser and buffet display wooden trays and risers at competitive prices.

Tiger proposes a whole new collection of buffet items to bring a nice touch of modernism and simplicity into your buffet scene.

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

Adv_Supper-Magazine_Trim-236x275mm_6.indd 1

14/03/2017 17:01:08

The Lobby Fizeaustraat Hotel V Fizeaustraat, Amsterdam

Words: Joann Plockova Photography: Marco Paone

A

lthough the centre of Amsterdam is just a few

building. Constructed in the 1970s as an office building,

minutes away by metro, Hotel V Fizeaustraat

the striking white structure with its long windows and

feels a world apart. Located in the city’s hip

zigzagging lines at the back, was designed by renowned

East district, near Amstel Station, the 91-

Dutch architect Piet Zanstra. Abandoned for thirteen years,

room boutique hotel sits in a quiet residential area. A

the ‘hidden-in-plain-sight’ building was restored by the

seat by the window in The Lobby - the hotel’s combined

family to its original seventies glory. Responsible for Hotel

restaurant, bar, café and private dining space - offers

V Fizeaustraat’s interior design - as she has been for the

street level views of the calm surroundings where on

other V hotels – the self-taught Espinosa looked to the era

paths cut through low-level housing, bikers pass by at a

for inspiration. “I went back to that time as the basis of the

leisurely pace.

interior,” she says.

Opened in the latter half of 2016, the four and half star

‘culinary living lobby’, where café, hotel bar, restaurant

of hoteliers, led by Tom and Mirjam Espinosa, who are

and private dining area occupy one large space. Each

proud to call themselves 12th-generation Amsterdammers.

is delineated only through varying design details. The

The family’s other two boutique properties, including

warm green and brown colour scheme includes wood

Hotel V Nesplein where they opened their first Lobby in

panelled walls adorned with fringed textile hangings;

2013, are located in the centre. “This is not the usual place

brick frames the open stage kitchen; and wood floors

to start a hotel and restaurant,” says Mirjam Espinosa. “I

feature a geometric cut. Furniture includes dark green

was initially unsure but now people see the location as a

banquet seating; wood chairs in the café; velvet green,

plus. We are outside the centre but very well connected,”

yellow and patterned dining chairs by Danish brand

she says. “Amsterdam is getting busier and busier. It’s

Gubi; and low-slung ‘Togo’ sofas by Ligne Roset in the

nice to take a breath here.”

bar. “We combined vintage and mid-century with new

Along with the area’s growth, what appealed was the

058

The hotels F&B destination, The Lobby, is dubbed a

hotel is the third V Hotel by the Espinosa’s: a local family

Scandinavian-designed tables and chairs,” says Espinosa.

MAIN COURSE

Beef Sirloin

059

MAIN COURSE

A mixture of Amsterdammers and hotel guests keeps The Lobby abuzz, although locals currently dominate.

menu include ceviche with corvine, kumquat, red onion and corn; scallops with freekeh, carrot and curry; fallow deer with black pudding ganache, tarte tatin of beetroot, polenta and sage gravy. They are served on thick, ceramic plates in earthy tones by Madam Stoltz, with cutlery by Benzer. Another mark of the 70s influence, tabletops

“There is a nice tension between old and new.”

are decorated with wine bottle candleholders, dripping

The space benefits from a warm glow - through pendant

with wax. “We try not to keep too many dishes around,”

lighting by British designer Lee Broom - that reflects off

says Muntjewerf of the seasonal menu. “It is a way to

glasses artfully stacked on various server stations and

encourage guests to visit more often and keep us relevant

built-ins. A glass wall with black metal framing separates

to those who live in the neighbourhood. People eventually

the private dining area and the restaurant’s focal point:

get bored of the same items.”

two large glass vitrines. One houses greenery and the

The Lobby abuzz, although locals currently dominate. The

unexpected way,” Espinosa says. “Although anything

space is particularly popular with those working nearby,

beyond the aesthetic is the sommelier’s domain.”

who regularly stop in for lunch or post work cocktails.

With around 250 varieties, wine plays an important

“The mixture of the two groups is always there and each

part in the 120-cover restaurant’s offer. “We have a ‘dirty

encourages the other,” says Muntjewerf. “Locals and hotel

book’,” says Ard Muntjewerf, manager of The Lobby. “It’s

guests use The Lobby at different times and this keeps the

an old book with the wines handwritten within.”.

energy going.”

International with French influences, dishes on the

060

A mixture of Amsterdammers and hotel guests keeps

other wine. “I like to present wine in an interesting and

In addition to its larger size, what distinguishes The

“Don’t be afraid of silly ideas.”

— Paul Arden

kalisher.com

2017-03-Kalisher-Supper-Ad.indd 2

3/2/17 12:16 PM

MAIN COURSE

“With all the little details we create a vibe that says ‘this is going to be a whole night out’”

are more expensive wines by the glass; uniforms (Lee shirts and Eva D leather aprons) are still casual but an upgrade from those at Nesplein; and wait staff take the time to explain each dish. “With all the little details,” explains Muntjewerf, “we create a vibe that says ‘this is going to be a whole night out’.”

Lobby Fizeaustraat from its sibling in the city centre is

Putting consideration into each element of the

its slower pace. Where there is the option of five dinner

experience is what keeps guests coming back. “People feel

courses at Fizeaustraat, there are only three at the

at ease here and they appreciate the casual atmosphere,”

Nesplein location. “At the Lobby Nesplein it is quicker

says Espinosa who notes the necessity and the challenge of

because of the liveliness of the location,“ says Muntjewerf.

having to create their own energy in Fizeaustraat’s quiet,

“Here, at Fizeaustraat, people come and stay all night.

residential location. “Not only is it important that it looks

They are not going to go out to another bar afterward

nice, but that it has a positive feel,” she says. “A kind

like at Nesplein and there aren’t two bars to the right to

and knowledgeable staff also helps. All of these factors

compete with.”

combine to make it a successful concept.”

As with the interior design, communicating that message of languidness and pace is all in the details: there

www.thelobbyfizeaustraat.nl

IN A BITE Owner: Hotel V and DvM b. v. • Operator: Hotel V • Executive Chefs: Jeroen van Spall, Koen Marees • Covers: 125 main, 60 private dining Tableware: Jars, Madame Stoltz • Glassware: APS • Cutlery: Benzer • Alcohol Suppliers: Right Spirits (spirits), De Vier Heemskinderen (Wine)

062

England DU: 13.02.2017

be first.

24 – 27. 6. 2017

From 2017, the latest international product ideas from the home and gift sectors for the autumn / winter and spring / summer seasons will celebrate their premiere in June.

Further details at: tendence.messefrankfurt.com

info@uk.messefrankfurt.com Tel. +44 (0) 14 83 48 39 83

new date

64667-010_TE_allg_Sleeper_242x281 • FOGRA 39 • CMYK • tg: 13.02.2017

new seasons ahead.

Vanilla and pistachio choux, apricot confit, sorbet

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Marc Wanda Reign on the Bund, Shanghai

Words: Noga Tarnopolski

A

t Marc, the restaurant atop Shanghai’s

showcase buildings that at night are draped in a

latest ultra-luxe hotel on the Bund, a

moving kaleidoscope of colour. This is the Space Age

refined woman at a window table opens her

realm that welcomes guests as they step into Marc.

eyes wide and murmurs, “I think a dragon

“In the middle of this surreal scene our aim is to

just floated by.” That’s arguably a conventional

be an absolutely French restaurant,” says the hotel’s

moment of a dining experience intended to wow.

28-year-old F&B operations manager, Morgan

The two most mesmerizing design elements in this

Lotterie. “In accord with the freshest ingredients

category-smashing establishment are the windows

available, we offer traditional French gastronomy

and the flooring. Marc’s floors are made out of

that has been only very lightly modernised.”

enormous slabs of translucent, striated marble into

Lotterie manages the restaurant on behalf of Marc

which LED lights have been embedded. All night long,

Meneau, the two-Michelin star chef of Burgundy’s

a rainbow of colours dances beneath guests’ feet. The

L’Espérance, a restaurant that introduced French

effect is luxuriously luminous and rococo - almost

country cooking into the world of high-end

hypnotic.

gastronomy. Mr. Meneau spends a week every month

Then the walls: at first glance it appears they’re not really there. Huge panes reach from ceiling to floor and are framed into large squares that exist

at his new Shanghai kitchen, which is his first venture outside of the confines of his native province.

The chairs are dark wood provincial backed

mostly to prevent diners from walking through the

armchairs, upholstered in white: the sort found in

building’s shell. Beyond this - black against black

elegant establishments in the French countryside

- flows the Huangpu River, bisecting Shanghai into

some years ago. The water is Badoit. The cutlery

Puxi, of which the Bund’s riverfront is the jewel; and

is Christofle. The china, made in France especially

Pudong, of the now-famous skyline studded with

for Marc, includes base plates whose glistening

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white borders appear to have been studded

over to the pro-Japanese puppet government

baby watercress. The plating, incidentally, is

with Brittany pearls, and whose centres are

in Nanking - Shanghai’s cosmopolitan heart

designed for Instagram and its Chinese cousin,

embossed with Mr. Meneau’s oversized oval

was the French Concession, a sprawling

WeChat.

thumbprint. It is hard to get more personal

neighbourhood that pulsed in French.

than that.

Marc provides an exuberant and disorienting

Lotterie, who Meneau poached from

Pierre Meneau, Marc’s son and himself a French chef rapidly gaining adherents, named

Singapore’s Sofitel to run Marc, underscores

his Paris restaurant Cromesqui in homage

experience characteristic of our time. It is a

the establishment’s ambition “to remain a

to his father’s signature dish. The foie gras

creation of Wang Jianlin, a debut-de-siècle

completely French kitchen, to keep dishes

cromesqui at Marc - a tiny delight to be

Willy Wonka and one of China’s wealthiest

pretty simple, to retain the original tastes

swallowed in a single gulp - is a crisp cube

men, who owns the Wanda Group. Wanda

and textures, and to be very rustic and deeply

filled with truffled goose liver that has melted

Reign is his latest luxury hotel acquisition.

attached to the land.”

into a puddle of port wine. Intentionally or

If it feels like Marc is a stubbornly foreign

It is an amusing declaration about a place

not and while nodding to la France profonde,

implant into China, then that is only partly

that hovers between land and sky, between

it alludes also to Shanghai’s signature dish of

true. While guests are served champagne

Asia and Europe and between historic eras, but

broth-filled dumplings.

and oysters, landed that very morning from

he means it wholeheartedly. “It is a passion,”

Marc’s ‘Bouillon de santé’ - a crystalline

Brittany; fancy table rolls made with flour

he says. “We can be proud of our own culture,

vegetable broth infused with lemon leaves,

flown in especially for the Marc bakers; and

oenology and gastronomy and bring it to a

- is also a tradition wrapped in a concession.

while the unflappable Lotterie will serve

Chinese public that has its own gastronomy

Lotterie says, “We realised local people like

guests, in a stretch, a fine Hungarian late

and, without either of us transforming into

hot liquids very much, so we serve one of

harvest Tokaji; Messrs Wang and Meneau have

anything other than what we are, take part in

ours.” The restaurant,,which is aimed at

aimed not to impose an alien aesthetic, so

a genuine exchange of cultures.”

visitors and residents alike, is he says, “a

much as to restore an old Shanghai that existed

At Marc dishes are prepared with old-

gamble, a very different gastronomic world.”

for a hundred years mere metres from Marc’s

fashioned respect for the purity of ingredients,

tables.

with witty asides to current trends. An

in the form of a returning colonial power

From 1849 - when French consul Charles de

At Marc, the spirit of France comes not

amuse-bouche offers up a Brittany oyster

but with the open hand of deeply rooted

Montigny wrangled a section of prime territory

encased in Atlantic seawater aspic on a smear

internationalism.

from then Circuit Intendant Lin Kouei - until

of crème fraiche, whipped with French garden

1943 - when Vichy authorities turned power

herbs and topped with a bouncy shoot of

www.wandahotels.com

IN A BITE Owner: Wanda Group • Operator: Wanda Hotels and Resorts • Interior Design: Wanda Design Institute • Architecture: Foster + Partners, Heatherwick Studio • Covers: 64 • Executive Chef: Marc Meneau • Head Bartender: Jays Zhang • Tableware: Bernardaud, Noritake • Glassware: Riedel, Spiegelau, Schott Zweisel • Cutlery: Christofle • Alcohol Suppliers: MHD, Pernod-Ricard

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SPREAD

Drift Champagne / Wine Cooler

Perrier-JouĂŤt Belle Epoque 2008

Windrush Candlesticks

Poached egg, salmon, avocado, English muffin

Drift Pinch Pot Set

Arden Cutlery

Salmon Lemon, soda bread, cucumber

Radford Napkin Ring

Quail Celeriac, muscat grapes, walnut

Drift Wine Coaster Drift Champagne / Wine Cooler, Large

Scallop Heritage carrot, Tamworth pig, caper and raisin

Goose liver Yorkshire rhubarb, sauternes, apple

Drift Serving Tray

Drift Hurricane Lamp

Arden Cutlery

Pigeon Beetroot, watercress, hazelnut

Home and Away Robert Welch RDI, MBE was a category-defining designer and one of the leading industrial designers of the 20th Century.

Today the company that bears his name, Robert Welch Designs, remains in the very place it was founded, in the English countryside region of the Cotswolds – noted for its picture-perfect charm and gentle tradition. The brand is now an international force, exporting to over 70 countries and has established itself as a staple of 5 star hotels.

British in attitude and global in outlook, Robert Welch’s designs blend modernity with a respect for craft, and feel as much at home in the hotels of Singapore as they do in the quaint country house establishments of their native England.

Here we explore that duality, as we move from the Cotswolds’ Dormy House to Singapore’s The St. Regis, leaping from country to town and from a classic pastoral setting to dynamic urban surroundings.

Day to Night From champagne breakfast to civilised nightcap, few occasions are complete without the popping of a cork.

With its new Drift Barware Collection, Robert Welch refines service with a series of pieces for wine, champagne and general beverage presentation.

With undulating curves and sculptural silhouettes, the collection is inspired by fluid waters and rolling waves, reflecting light with mirror-polished surfaces.

We start the day at Dormy House with a classic breakfast before moving into a smart supper. As the sun sets, Astor Bar at The St. Regis Singapore buzzes with activity as candles are lit and cocktails poured. An elegant end to the day, drinks are served in the hotel’s Astoria Suite.

Drift Champagne / Wine Cooler, Large

Drift Hurricane Lamp

Windrush Candlestick

Drift Bowl Small

Drift Tealight Holder

Drift Bowls Small, Medium and Large

All marked products: Robert Welch www.robertwelch.com/hospitality Images one and two: Photography: Giulia Zonza Chef: Ryan Swift Location: Dormy House Hotel & Spa www.dormyhouse.co.uk Images three and four: Photography: Allen Tan Location: The St. Regis Singapore www.stregissingapore.com

Scribe Tablet Stand

Drift Pinch Pot Set

Drift Serving Tray

Dover sole meunière, mussels, parsley, garlic and matchstick potatoes

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The Dining Room The Wild Rabbit, Kingham

Words: Harry McKinley

O

pened in 2013, The Wild Rabbit

embodies the same organic philosophy in

was Lady Bamford’s first sortie

concept and the same pastoral-but-pristine

into the overnight sector. The wife

attitude to design.

of a billionaire industrialist and

Wild Rabbit is just a few minutes drive from

perhaps best known for Daylesford: her swish

the Daylesford Gloucestershire estate, along a

group of farmshops and cafes that started life

road that perhaps sees more waxed sports cars

on the family’s country turf, but which have

than tractors. It is a deeply picturesque part of

since sprung up ‘town-side’ in the likes of

the country: home to former prime ministers

London’s Notting Hill and Marylebone.

and former Top Gear presenters alike.

These idylls of organic produce offer

The inn features 12 bedrooms - with private

comfortable urbanites everything from

cottages also available a short stroll from the

cashew nut butter, made by hand on the

main building – and the whole ground floor is

Cotwolds farm, to London Honey, collected

given over to the restaurant and bar.

from bees that have set up home on the Thames’s barges.

There’s a placid sophistication to it all - a

xxx

Situated in Kingham, in the Cotswolds, The

an early proponent of organic farming, she is

Already a popular spot with Cotswolds residents and weekending city dwellers, The Wild Rabbit is experiencing a new wave

world where everything bar the food exists

of interest thanks to its recently achieved

on a sliding scale of neutrals and in which,

Michelin star – a coup for the restaurant, and

inevitably, a candle somewhere breathes

certainly for Chef Tim Allen, who took the

bergamot or lavender or fig leaf into the air.

reins at the end of 2015, formerly head chef at

Billed as a ‘modern British inn’ – a place to eat, drink and sleep – The Wild Rabbit

Launceston Place in South Kensington.

“The star has made a big difference,” he

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Already a popular spot with Cotswolds residents and weekending city dwellers, The Wild Rabbit is experiencing a new wave of interest thanks to its recently achieved Michelin star.

says. “It’s increased demand and we’re finding more of

- another new addition to the team. He’s overseen a

our guests are passionate about their food and the quality

dramatic expansion of the inn’s offer, broadening the

of what they eat.”

wine menu from one page to 12, with a few renowned

Food, of course, has always been a vital component

and difficult to source vintages included amongst the 100

of The Wild Rabbit’s appeal, accounting, as Allen notes,

varieties now available. A wine cellar is also in the works,

for “about two and a half times more of the revenue

featuring temperature-controlled storage that will allow

than rooms.” But under his direction, the menu has been

The Wild Rabbit to build upon its collection and grow the

elevated. The produce was always organic and the quality

menu even further.

high, but Allen has brought with him a certain flair for the

The Wild Rabbit’s Michelin star is undoubtedly reward

creative and infused the food with more personality than

for the attention and investment currently being slathered

was present previously.

like hand-churned butter on sourdough over its F&B offer.

“If we can find local and organic then that’s great,

And indeed the star is already helping to ensnare a fresh

but the focus remains on the quality,” he explains. “For

and more varied audience for the country spot. But one

example, we have a monkfish dish on the menu where

element that has remained unchanged since its opening is

the fish is from Scotland and the English asparagus from

the overall attitude and design.

the Wye Valley, but with garlic that is foraged from about

True to form, Bamford was personally responsible

three miles down the road. Produce is important but so is

for The Wild Rabbit’s look and feel, both in the grand

originality, and the ideas stem from us.”

sweep and in the smallest detail, handpicking cutlery and

Inventive dishes include roasted quail breasts with

glassware. In appearance the bar and restaurant exist

Morteau sausage, smoked shallots and a verjus reduction;

somewhere between classic country pub and high-end

fricassee of braised veal with confit onion, truffle purée

homewares catalogue. Comfortable and lived-in, it’s far

and baby capers; and Amalfi lemon cream, granita, iced

from a stage set, but it would be disingenuous not to

curd and poles of crispy white meringue that stand up in

acknowledge the polished veneer that clings to everything

the bowl like winter tree trunks.

from the wooden bar stools to the tabletop plant pots.

The modest tableware – evoking the country kitchen

It has all of the hallmarks of the countryside but – put

style that pervades the dining room – is a mix of pieces

together as it is, with such self-consciousness and thought

from Daylesford, with plates by John Julian. Stately bottles

– it affords guests an experience that straddles traditional

of water are from Blenheim Palace, which, at a mere half

notions of hospitality, with all of the refinement and

an hour’s drive away, is an added local touch.

gentility that suggests.

It’s not just what’s on the plate that is seeing an additional nudge, there’s a newfound focus on wine, spearheaded by award-winning sommelier Marcin Ozielby

www.thewildrabbit.co.uk

IN A BITE Owner: Carole Bamford • Executive Chef: Tim Allen • Sommelier: Marcin Ozielby • Interior Design: Carole Bamford • Covers: 50 • Cutlery: Daylesford Plates: John Julian • Water: Blenheim Palace

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Selection of three sorbets: bitter chocolate, blackberry, apple, pear and rhubarb

079

Origin Renaissance Paris République Words: Harry McKinley

F

ew spaces in Paris reflect the eclecticism and diversity of the city like Place de la République. Whilst a renovation of the square was completed in 2013 – with it subsequently a finalist for the European Prize for Urban Public Space – it has retained

much of the expressive character for which it was originally known.

Such is the egalitarian nature of this pocket of Paris, that following

the terrorist attacks on the city in 2015 it was here that crowds gathered to express their solidarity in what would be the largest demonstration in modern French history.

But whilst the relative grittiness of the area remains apparent in pockets, it is also seeing increasing levels of gentrification, with satellite streets spruced up, fanciful patisseries blossoming and a growing number of prim professionals choosing to call the neighbourhood home. Against this backdrop of change sits Renaissance Paris République, part of Marriott International and the first five-star hotel in north-eastern Paris.

Despite its luxury credentials, Renaissance Paris République embodies both a carefree insouciance and a vibrancy that fits the attitude of its locale. Creative to the core, it is a destination defined by art, design and a connection to the streets beyond. Even during the hotel’s conversion works, performances, private views and temporary installations were organised to breathe life into the building and as a prelude to what was to come.

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“After being an office for many years, the building was abandoned and

colours of lamps but in different forms. In that sense it represents an

occupied by a troop of artists,” explains Frédéric Bonomo, the hotel’s

a-typical collection, but still very comfortable. We use different touches

general manager. “So many people consider this to be the birth place of

and different cues to break up the spaces on the ground floor, so from

street art in the north of Paris. It explains why art is present everywhere,

the lobby to the restaurant, a guest’s vision is never interrupted.”

including the bar and restaurant, and why it’s such an important part of the DNA of the hotel.”

The hotel’s public spaces flow seamlessly from one to another: the

For the hotel, F&B is a vital component, representing around a quarter of its revenue – “Important for a hotel of its size,” as Bonomo notes.

And so creating spaces with appeal and, more importantly, pulling

lobby connecting to an open bar and into Origin, the dining space. The

power was crucial. Today approximately 90% of diners at Origin and

sense of fluidity is echoed in the design, with pond-like shapes in the roof

guests at Martin Bar are outside visitors.

and sweeping architectural curves. Both the bar and restaurant are fringed

The offer at Origin is simple but confident, with dishes conceived

by an outdoor terrace that provides a spot for summer lunches and late

around a French-style composition, where three is the golden number:

night cocktails. Landscaped by Tracer, it features a 254m2 green wall,

three flavours and three textures per dish. Executive Chef Bénédicte

planted with Geraniums, Campanulas, clouds of Euphorbia and Heuchera.

Van Der Motte openly bestows the virtues of variation and the value

Despite the hotel’s ambitions to represent a résumé of design notes

of regional products, with the menu tweaked daily depending on the

from around the world, at Origin this inclusiveness of inspiration is handled with subtlety and a refined eye. A curt palette of greens,

available market produce.

This commitment to locality manifests not just in the cuisine but in

whites and earthy neutrals combines with metallic touches, and in the

the tableware. “We try to work only with items made in France,” says

materials lies a dialogue between the hard and soft, the natural and the

Bonomo. “That includes everything from the uniforms to the cutlery. So

unequivocally manmade.

the F&B here is really a celebration of the country and of Paris, not just

“We used noble materials like wood, metal and rock,” says Didier Gomez, who lead the design. “The hotel’s owners wished to express an

in the cuisine but in the whole restaurant experience.”

Whilst Origin, and the hotel at large, is certainly a celebration of Paris,

avant-garde approach, combining 50s, 60s and 70s fashion with a more

as Bonomo notes, it manages to be so without reverting to type. In its

modern style.” The result is a restaurant that feels at once referential, of

abstraction and subtlety it represents not the Paris of classicism but the

our time and yet somehow timeless.

Paris of modernity – apt for a neighbourhood that stands as testament

“République is a multi-ethnic district and a melting-pot of culture,”

to a city embracing its past but looking steadfastly to the future.

continues Gomez. “The objective was to create the feeling of being inside a collector’s home. Some details will change, so we might have the same

www.marriott.com

IN A BITE Operator: Marriott International • Interior Design: Didier Gomez • Executive Chef: Bénédicte Van Der Motte • Tableware: Roland Lannier • Slicer: Roussey • Landscaping (terrace): Tracer • Uniforms: Atelier Tuffery

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SIPPING

“An in-demand bar will obviously benefit the hotel by association, as the hotel and its F&B components will be seen as one and the same by customers.�

Gary Redmond, house manager at Montcalm Royal London House, on the halo effect.

Ex c ept i ona ll i nens

www. v a l ombr eus e . f r

COCKTAILS

Arsenic Waltz Dandelyan, Mondrian, London

Continuing Dandelyan’s modern botanical exploration, Arsenic Waltz comprises Tapatio Blanco, sour pear, long pepper and cucumber honey.

Part of the bar’s ‘The Vices of Botany’ series, Arsenic Waltz joins a collection of cocktails investigating the ways in which botany plays a role in human vice.

Divided into four sections – faith, lust, currency and rock ‘n’ roll – the menu’s creation involved contributions from every member of the bar team, and works towards generating sustainable and environmentally friendly ‘closed loop’ cocktails, that make use of ingredients usually thrown away – a practice championed by Dandelyan’s creator Ryan ‘Mr Lyan’ Chetiyawardana.

Other new additions include Jail Bucks, created with Yaguara Cachaça, black pepper, Manzanilla, pink garum and tonic; as well as Velvet Brew, which features Piña, Tepache, Olmeca Altos and Del Maguey Vida.

The menu introduces new flavour profiles through the use of fermented ingredients including the pink garum and tepache - fermented fish sauce and pineapple juice respectively.

There is also a tropical undercurrent to the releases, with the notable incorporation of coconut fibre, tonka, guava, bitter hibiscus and pineapple sherbet. www.morganshotelgroup.com

COCKTAILS

The Grey Sage Folly by Nick & Scott, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

Featuring Earl Grey infused gin, sage and blackberries, The Grey Sage is English through and through, and offers a unique taste combining fruity undertones with a smooth aftertaste.

Marking the opening of Folly by Nick & Scott at Dubai’s Madinat Jumeirah, The Grey Sage sits in British contrast to the expansive views across the area’s intricate Middle Eastern waterways.

Comprising an indoor dining area, open interactive kitchen, and outdoor bars and terraces, Folly by Nick & Scott offers an informal F&B option, replacing the popular Rivington Grill..

Featuring a contemporary bar menu driven by quality produce and ingredients, additional cocktails include Apricup, a combination of fresh apricot, thyme, gin and Mediterranean tonic; and Saint Collins, comprising Jasmine gin with St Germain elderflower liquor topped with soda.

“We feel that as a homegrown concept, Folly by Nick & Scott will act as something of a pioneer in the region and will fill a niche in the fast-growing hospitality market,” comments Naim Maadad, CEO, Gates Hospitality. www.nickandscott.com

COCKTAILS

Two Memories Artesian, The Langham, London

Mixed with Star of Bombay, sloes, yuzu, champagne and sakura, Artesian’s Two Memories cocktail blends Asian flavours with striking and inventive presentation.

Part of a new concept and menu from the acclaimed London bar based around the theme of perception, Two Memories features a luminous green mix served atop a glowing platform.

The Perception menu features a series of 20 cocktails that seek to surprise and tap all of the senses. The earthy Mind Your Step is a rich and fruity mix of Ron Zacapa 23 Rum, Heron aged Pisco, tropical sour sop, and orange blossom, all served in a ‘broken’ glass; while Creative Maths’ light and aromatic mixture of Bulleit Rye Collins and Prairie Organic Martinez is presented in two separate miniature copper stills.

Situated within The Langham, London, Artesian has been named among the world’s best bars on numerous occasions.

The Perception menu marks a new chapter in Artesian’s history, with the appointment of Dino Koletsas as director of bars and Gabor Fodor as head bartender. www.artesian-bar.co.uk

C

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CM

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Aviary Montcalm Royal London House, London

Words: Harry McKinley

A

s London becomes an increasingly high-rise city, hotel F&B destinations

“Aviary’s grand roof terrace is arguably

are quite literally on the up. Rooftop

the largest in the neighbourhood,” says ETM

bars and restaurants draw in guests

Group Co-Founder Chris Martin. “The objective

with the promise of captivating views of the

was to design and build a magnificent, striking

serrated urban skyline and alfresco experiences

bar and restaurant, as well as a huge outdoor

disconnected from the cacophonous streets

terrace that makes the most of the views –

below.

arguably the best of the iconic City skyscrapers.

Aviary at Montcalm Royal London House is

Vibrant, eclectic and full of fun, Aviary is

one of the latest to capitalise on its position,

part of our Botanist style of venues that are

situated as it is just outside the traditional

high-energy and infused with visual impact,

boundaries of the City of London – the

creativity and glamour.”

financial heart of the British capital – and

Russell Sage Studio (Zetter Townhouse,

looking out to the cluster of recognisable

Savoy Grill, The Balcon at Sofitel St. James)

skyscrapers that huddle nearby.

was tasked with the interior, which mixes

On the 10th floor of the hotel, Aviary is by

traditional flourishes like parquet flooring and

no means the highest bar in the city, but it

mid-century lighting with modern flashes of

does provide a distinctive concept that appeals

bright colour and fluid lines.

to the area’s diverse collection of white-collar workers, residents and international visitors.

Developed by ETM Group – responsible

090

modernity that surrounds.

In its design, Aviary doesn’t attempt the revolutionary or try to compete with East London’s more avant-garde venues. Instead

for a slew of standalone bars and restaurants

it channels a creativity that is comfortably

across London – Aviary draws upon classic

appealing and which won’t - despite the name

references while touching upon the hyper-

- ruffle the feathers of the more staid pocket

DRINKS

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DRINKS

“Finding the right F&B operator to partner with can bring huge benefits, not only in terms of F&B profitability but also in the knock-on effect it can have on occupancy levels and ADR”

of The Bee and the Frog, featuring Louis Royer, apricot brandy, lemon, honey and tonic; or the Mary and the Bison, with Zubrowka vodka, orange, rosemary and honey.

Glassware is from Parsley in Time, while the bar’s primary alcohol supplier is Diageo.

The food menu, meanwhile, is ripe with faithful crowd

of its target market, while providing enough flashes of

pleasers and changes every other month: shorthorn

ingenuity to please the rest.

chateaubriand, milk-fed Cumbrian veal T-bone and a whole

“Like the hotel itself, Aviary seeks to tell the story of its

mackerel all feature. As Martin says, “The cast iron Bertha

setting in a contemporary way,” says Gary Redmond, the

coal oven takes centre stage at Aviary, cooking only the

hotel’s house manager. “We like to think of our hotels as a

highest quality British meat and wild fish from artisanal,

compendium of individual experiences, evoking different

bespoke suppliers who, like us, are mostly family run

times in London’s history but brought together by a timeless

businesses with a real passion for seasonal, sustainable and

elegance and the same exacting standards. Aviary doesn’t

fully traceable great British produce.”

have a formulaic feel and whether in the bar and restaurant or on the terrace, you couldn’t be anywhere but London.”

Vital to the success of any bar and restaurant in this

ETM Group is responsible for all of the Montcalm Royal London House’s F&B; not just other public venues within the hotel, but also breakfast, room service, corporate

competitive neck of the woods is, of course, a well conceived

dining and private dining. This fully outsourced model is

menu. On the cocktail front, Aviary delivers visually

something that Redmond sees as indicative of hotels trying

impressive mixes that make use of bold garnishes to charm

to shirk the misconceptions of years past.

guests, who inevitably snap and share before a first sip.

“We are now firmly in an experience economy where people

In addition to standalone serves, the bar also offers a

092

selection of ‘sharing pineapples’, stocked with the likes

are tending to curtail spending on material possessions in

DRINKS

Koko Mahalo: Tanqueray Gin, coconut, pineapple, basil, star anise

favour of experiences. Eating out has played a huge part in this trend, and hotel restaurants need to stay ahead of the curve to remain competitive,” he says. “Traditional’ hotel restaurants can be perceived as stuffy and soulless, and in a city like London where guests have a plethora of dining options in every direction, upscale hotels need to offer something relevant, authentic and exciting.

“Finding the right F&B operator to partner with can bring huge benefits, not only in terms of F&B profitability but also in the knock-on effect it can have on occupancy levels and ADR (Average Daily Rate). An in-demand bar or restaurant will obviously benefit the hotel by association, as the hotel and its F&B components will be seen as one and the same by customers. It’s also a method of maintaining the integrity of what we do. We are hoteliers, so the guest will enjoy a better hotel experience when we focus solely on preserving and perfecting the art of hospitality, while adding to the guest experience with authentic F&B options delivered by dedicated restaurateurs.”

The closeness and success of the partnership between Montcalm Royal London House and ETM Group is evidenced in the parallels between the two and the lack of a perceptible division, in terms of experience, between the F&B offer and the rest of the hotel. The design of Aviary reflects the same visual notes that reverberate in the lobby and rooms – namely clean modernity, with period references. There’s equally a commitment to a refined standard of service which is, ultimately, at the core of the hotel’s character.

“ETM Group have made some amazing strides on the London food and drink scene, providing fantastic dishes with interesting provenance in stylish but authentic settings. And they are also known for great service,” says Redmond. “They continue to innovate with flavour and presentation, and this combination of qualities is in total synergy with our own ethos: preserving and perfecting the art of hospitality while pioneering new ways to enjoy it. With this mind-set in place, our teams work as one to deliver and exceed our customers’ expectations together.” www.aviarylondon.com www.themontcalm.com

IN A BITE Covers: 50 restaurant, 250 capacity • Owner: The Montcalm Luxury Hotels • Operator: ETM Group • Architecture: 5plus • Interior Design: Russell Sage Head Chef: Dan Loftin • Tableware: Parsley in Time • Uniforms: Denny’s • Drinks Supplier: Diageo

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DRINKS

The New Pair Tea and whisky may seem an odd pairing, but as connoisseurs of both are discovering, they can also be a match made in heaven.

Words: Dominic Roskrow

I

f someone had suggested even five years ago that mixing whisky and tea was a serious proposition and had the potential to create a new drinks category, they would have been sneered at. But not only are bartenders now exploring the complexities of tea and how

it can be paired with an array of whisky styles, but the same people who somewhat snottily dismissed the movement are now desperate to embrace it. In fact some are predicting that as the demand for whisky and tea grows, hotel afternoon teas could be set for a radical shake up.

“There is a real opportunity for hotels,” says Paul Benjamin, of Benjamin & Blum, which hand-selects and imports teas specially chosen for their suitability to mix with whisky. “There is something special about enjoying afternoon tea in the lobby of a grand hotel. Some might feel self-conscious drinking a pint of beer or a glass of whisky at 4pm, but a whisky tea sipped from a nice cup? It presents a great opportunity.”

DRINKS

Benjamin & Blum Darjeeling White Peony Tea

Tea may be used as an infusion of whisky, as a hot and cold mixer, or as a key ingredient in cocktails, and we’re just scraping the surface of the movement.

have been other developments too. Tea may be used as an infusion of whisky, as a hot and cold mixer, or as a key ingredient in cocktails, and we’re just scraping the surface of the movement.

Alan Winchester, master distiller at The Glenlivet and who oversees the other distilleries in the Chivas Brothers

Tea and whisky have traditionally been far more uneasy

portfolio, was one of several who moved the pairings

bedfellows than, say, whisky and coffee, but that’s in

forward from standard teas and blended Scotch to a more

part due to the fact that the likes of the British have a

premium offering.

very precise view of how and when tea should be drunk:

“In addition to their prominence, the two make a

mornings if you work for a living, afternoons if you are a

particularly good match because the flavours work in

person of leisure.

harmony,” he says. “Like in any good marriage, they

Whisky isn’t normally a morning or afternoon drink

aromatics, complementing each other through shared

twain did meet. Historically the British sourced their teas

notes of smoke, malt and tropical fruits. Like fine wines,

from Ceylon and India, and the tea was strong, black and

both whisky and tea develop in the glass. Their flavours

rich in tannins, so much so that someone, somewhere

evolve, with some notes softening and others becoming

(possibly a Frenchman) added milk to the mix to soften

more pronounced.”

the flavour, and tea headed off on a totally different path to that of whisky.

Interest in Asian culture, and particularly China and Japan, has led to a dramatic reappraisal. Whisky and green tea is a highly popular combination in China, but there

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soften each other’s edges. They also heighten each other’s

and tea isn’t an evening one, so for a long time, never the

Paul Benjamin says that the trend is still in its infancy, but there is huge possibility to experiment. On the other hand, there are companies such as his that can ease the would-be drinks mixer through serving selections.

“There are teas that work with the big bold peaty flavours

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Paul Benjamin’s Guide to Whiskey and Tea Pairings Irish Whiskey and Lipton Yellow Label

Bourbon and Darjeeling

This is my classic starter pairing. Tea aficionados may read

I have long been of the opinion that Darjeeling mixes well

Lipton Yellow Label and roll their eyes, but this pairing has

with honey, which balances the astringent qualities of the tea

its roots in how I caught on to the idea of mixing tea and

without minimising it. For me milk blots out the astringency,

whiskey in the first place.

whilst lemon sharpens it a little too much. Keeping that in

All I have now is a dim memory of an old movie where Irish-

mind, richly sweet bourbons such as Maker’s Mark and Four

American fishermen somewhere in New England are putting

Roses Yellow Label are good choices for adding to a pot of

whiskey in their tea while setting out to sea, a scene that

Darjeeling.

obviously calls for Irish whiskey and an inexpensive tea such as Lipton Yellow Label.

The signature characteristics of Irish whiskey are its lack of

Scotch and Darjeeling

smoke and its sweet, candy-like flavour. Those two things mellow out the almost harsh nature of tea, giving it some real

I experimented with Scotch and Darjeeling for a couple of

sophistication.

years and drew the conclusion that this combination works well with floral whiskies, such as Grant’s. A little peat smoke is fine, but the stronger the floral and citrus is in the scotch,

Scotch and Earl Grey

the better for pairing with Darjeeling.

I imagine this pairing to be the better-off, British counterpart of the aforementioned Irish whiskey and tea mix. Unlike

Scotch and Gunpowder Tea

Darjeeling, Earl Grey is good with lemon, so the same rules do not apply here. Earl Grey, as a strong black tea with bergamot

Gunpowder tea has a smoky, tannin-packed flavour. In

orange rind mixed in, already has a balance between dry

contrast with all of the aforementioned examples, this tea

astringency and floral citrus flavours. Virtually any mass

calls out for pairing with a peaty, smoky, full-bodied scotch.

market scotch can be added to this tea, since the result is

Anything else will either clash with, or be covered up by, the

to emphasise one end of the scale or the other, although a

heavy flavour of the tea. Ballantine’s and Johnnie Walker

balanced scotch enhances both.

Black are good choices for mixing with gunpowder tea.

of the Islay malts, and others that work with the fruitier

Green Chartreuse which plays off the subtle tea infusion.

Speyside whiskies.”

It was served as an Old Fashioned style drink: the modern

Chivas Regal Brand Ambassador Max Warner says there are so many new ways of enjoying tea with whisky. “One

Others are discovering their own favourites. Tea authority

example is by taking Earl Grey leaves as an infusion for the

Kevin Gascoyne, who regularly holds tasting classes, says

whisky. Adding the raw leaves to the liquid for around 20

his favourite pairing is a first flush Darjeeling with Talisker

minutes will create a subtle bergamot citrus note which can

10. He went on to recommend a ‘sandwich method’ of

then be used as a basis for cocktails or with a mixer of the

tasting. The taster sips the tea first, then they should hold a

drinker’s choice.”

sip of Scotch in the mouth, and then take in more tea.

Want to get more complex? Then you can do that, too.

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gentleman’s cocktail of choice.”

“Tea infused whisky and the combination of the two

“Bartender Ali Reynolds created a delicious Earl Grey

flavours in cocktails are concepts that have been in the

infused cocktail, called The Brothers’ Peach Tea, when

background for some time now, but it is a combination that

he was running the bar at the Hawksmoor,” says Warner.

is definitely here to stay,” says Warner. “The potential is

“The cocktail contained a delicious blend of Chivas Regal

vast and, more importantly, very exciting. So I look forward

12-Year-Old infused with Earl Grey, a dash of peach

to seeing how this innovation in taste develops over the

liqueur and Cocchi Rosa, and a suggestion of the heavenly

coming years.”

Charles H. Bar, Four Seasons Seoul

DRINKS

Go East From Japanese bartending techniques to cocktails mixed with Indonesian rum, Asia is gaining ground as the new playground for pioneering and globally resonant mixology.

Words: Angus Winchester

I

fervently believe that Asia is currently at the forefront of most mixological matters. I know this is a bold statement and while I will try and prove my case, take as evidence that I am writing this while sitting in Hong Kong at the start of a four-month

sojourn. I am opening a bar in Brooklyn and so I chose Asia as a region to generate ideas and inspirations.

Bartending may have originated in America but was then smoothed out by the Brits and finally perfected by various Asian bartending cultures. Still unconvinced? Well let’s look at the Asian influence in four main areas: technique, venues, alcoholic liquids and nonalcoholic flavours.

It is perhaps in the area of bartending and bartending technique in particular that Asian, and specifically Japanese, bartenders have had the most impact. While others have tried to categorise bartending styles into groups such as classic, tiki, molecular, batching and contemporary. I personally have tried to explain it by saying it’s like dancing - and I don’t mean that some people make it look good and others dance like a drunk dad at a wedding. While the USA may be headbanging and the UK may be jazz dancing, Japanese bartending is very much classical ballet: seemingly

Dewdrops of the Heart, The Envoy, The Pottinger Hotel, Hong Kong 104

DRINKS

effortless and ethereal, but in fact hugely technically

tropes of Prohibition and adapt the romanticism and

complex and the result of years of practice.

intimacy you observe in Japanese bartenders. Everything

Any cocktail or bartending maven who spends time in

they do is with intention and skill, from the Japanese hard-

Japan, and Ginza in particular, comes back with a bruised

shake to cutting ice a-la-minute and deciding what kind

chin as their jaw will have regularly hit the ground with the

of carbonated water they use for the increasingly popular

astonishing attention to detail and thought that goes into

Japanese highball.”

Japanese bartending. From perfectly clear, perfectly round

Japanese heritage bartenders such as New York’s Kenta

hand-carved ice balls for whiskies to six different shaking

Goto and Shingo Gotan have opened their own bars in

techniques depending on the exact type of ingredients and

NYC and Shanghai, showcasing ‘evolved’ Japanese ideas,

glassware so delicate that you worry about breaking it by

while the awareness of Japanese bartending is being raised

just looking at it too hard, Japan is a cocktail connoisseur’s

elsewhere in Asia with the opening of Japanese bartender

fantasy.

venues in Hong Kong and Taipei.

In the West individuality is encouraged whilst Japanese culture celebrates conformity. To that end bartenders are

It leads us neatly to the spread of Asian influenced bars around the world. While many of the coolest spots are

drilled and trained in the same styles - often via a master bartender - to inch perfect standards. While cocktail bartending is less than 100 years old in Japan, the principle of Kaizen (the Japanese business philosophy of continuous improvement of working practices and personal efficiency) was applied early on to perfect what they had been given by foreigners. It is rare to find original cocktails in Japan but classics abound, and each one will have guests claiming it’s the best they have ever had. It is not that surprising,

“I think the American bartender narrative is beginning to move away from the tropes of Prohibition and adapt the romanticism and intimacy you observe in Japanese bartenders”

however, from a country that gave the world origami, sushi, ninjas and the tea ceremony that Japan has taken bartending to the another, more precise, level.

Due to the average Japanese bartender’s poor English and

mislabelled as ‘speakeasies’ due to their minimal signage, no standing and carefully crafted drinks, they are far closer

also an innate disinterest in the rest of the world outside

to the authentic bars of Ginza and elsewhere in Japan. We

Japan, it is only in the past 15 years that the West has been

see hand cut or large format ice; we see quiet temples to the

exposed to such master bartenders as Kazuo Uyeda and

art of drinking and not raucous beer-hall style drinkeries;

Hidetsugu Ueno - famous for their hard-shake and ice

and we see small spots, often owned and staffed by

diamond carving respectively.

bartenders that are the hallmark of Ginza bars.

What we have also seen recently is a fusion of Japanese

Bars located in Asia gaining international acclaim are also

techniques with Western sensibilities - such as speed of

on the rise. Tokyo’s Bar High Five regularly features in most

service - with bartenders like London’s Marian Beke (Oriole

Top 50 lists and Manhattan Bar in Singapore’s Regent Hotel

and Nightjar) and Luca Cinalli adding a very choreographed

is indicative of a growing cocktail scene in that city - that

element to their drink making. As Julie Lozano of Four

now boasts the first ‘foreign’ outpost of NYC’s acclaimed

Seasons Hotel Houston says nicely, “I think the American

Employees Only, as well as such bars as Operation Dagger,

bartender narrative is beginning to move away from the

Potato Head and 28 Hong Kong Street, which are all on the

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Cocktail Recipes Arrack Cocktail

Dewdrops of the Heart

The Ginseng Hunter

Alila

Four Seasons Hotel,

The Envoy, Pottinger Hotel,

The Envoy, Pottinger Hotel,

Thompson

Houston

Hong Kong

Hong Kong

Toronto

1 oz yuzu Batavia Arrack .75 oz Primario Mezcal .75 oz ginger turmeric cordial 1 oz lemon juice .5 oz pineapple 3 dashes Bittermens Elemakule Tiki Bitters

30ml redistilled pandan vodka 60ml Green Tea & Jasmine Flowers tea (Dilmah) 20ml homemade slow-cooked pandan syrup

40ml redistilled ginseng gin 60ml korean pear juice 30ml Yata Watte black tea syrup 10ml lime juice

40ml Bombay Sapphire East 15ml Aperol 20ml lime juice 20ml lemongrass and mandarin sorbet 1 slice of cucumber (muddled) 1/8th Thai chili (for spice, not flavour)

Carbonate in a Perlini cocktail shaker, serve in a champagne flute with a pandan leaf tied to the stem.

Carbonate in a Perlini cocktail shaker and serve over ice in a wine glass, accompanied by a ginger and black tea jelly.

Top with East Imperial Yuzu Tonic Shake everything save the tonic vigorously, strain into a hurricane glass with crushed ice, top with Yuzu Tonic Water. Garnish with lemon peel, mint sprig, and a cinnamon stick.

Asia is far more well known for its culinary styles and the flavours of the region’s cuisines - in spice, herb and fruit form - are increasingly popping up in guests’ cocktails.

Build in a Boston shaker, shake and fine strain into a chilled coupe.

Garnish with a thin slice of starfruit (carambola) floating atop the drink.

Asia is far more well known for its culinary styles and the flavours of the region’s cuisines - in spice, herb and fruit form - are increasingly popping up in guests’ cocktails.

Lychee is the most obvious and, whilst many American bartenders derided the Lychee Martini, they are still fascinated by lemongrass and kaffir limes. Flavours like yuzu, umeshu and pandan are also being used by bartenders

serious cocktail enthusiast’s pilgrimage. The Four Seasons

around the world, driven both by costumer demand and

Hotel Seoul’s Charles H. Bar is another example of how the

mixological experimentation. Tea is also once again being

whole region is catching up with the West, fast.

used as either a subtle lengthening agent or as a base for

Of course it is not just who is serving guests or where they are drinking that’s heavily influenced by Asia, what

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flavoured sugar syrups.

While Asia is such a vast and hugely different set of

they are putting in their mouths is also East-looking. While

countries and cultures, social media - especially among

Sake has long underperformed in bars in the West - often

the bar and hospitality community - means we are

due to confusing production techniques and non-Western

certainly seeing far more exposure to the region’s take

friendly labeling - the back bars of the best bars around the

on bar and cocktail culture. As a long time member of

world are now not considered complete without a growing

the bartending fraternity, it is fascinating for me to

array of Asian whiskies. Ever since Yoichi 20 Year Old won

see the rise of the Asian bartender on the global scene.

the World’s Best Single Malt Whisky in 2008, so Japanese

Japan claims two global winners for Diageo’s World

whisky has been coveted and consumed by devotees around

Class competition already while Bacardi’s Legacy was

the world in both complex cocktail form and also in the

won in 2016 by a Taiwanese bartender working in a

simple but precise Highball. Taiwan’s Kavalan and India’s

Japanese influenced bar in NYC - a true cocktail of

Amrut are also becoming increasingly highly regarded.

cultures. Whereas Europe and America may be established

And for those more adventurous drinkers, China’s Baiju

destinations for cocktail fans and hospitality trend

and Korea’s Soju are bibulous behemoths that are heading

spotters alike, I have to flip Greeley’s exhortation and say

westward, while Batavia Arrack and Indonesian rums like

that for the most exciting cocktails and bartenders in the

Nusa Caña are certainly hip sips.

world, “Go East!”

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DRINKS

Tea Total Words: Nina Caplan

With variety, provenance and flavour now driving tea choices, the world’s leading hotels are increasingly expanding their menus and looking to experts to guide guests to their perfect brew.

P

erhaps it is the traveller’s desire for a rousing start and a calming end to the day, but coffee and wine have always been the drinks that fired hoteliers’ imaginations. A wine list, in particular, says so much

about the clientele a hotel expects or wants, and the level of comfort or prestige the establishment is able to offer them.

As more and more countries make good wine, it has also become a form of introduction: a way to visit the country without moving from your chair.

Coffee, meanwhile, is what sends business travellers out to conquer the world and gives leisure voyagers the energy to explore it. In Italy, good coffee is as much a matter of national pride as good wine. In Melbourne, where coffee obsession has reached a level where aficionados are on a fourth wave (all about the science of the brewing process,

apparently) it could be argued that coffee has even

leaves enduring a year of roadside campfires became

outclassed wine as a passion.

a preference. Even today, the Russians like smokier

Where, in all this excitement, is tea? Most top-

tea than the British, who became used to diluting

level hotels will offer an afternoon tea; apart from

their strong black brew with milk. In 1660, Samuel

that, the beverage that flowed across the centuries

Pepys recorded his first sip of tea – “a China drink

from Chinese Emperors to genteel English ladies has

of which I never had drank before” – and while he

been sadly neglected.

preferred coffee, his wife was later prescribed tea by

Of course, everywhere serves tea. In general, even basic accommodations will offer several. But nobody

a doctor, for ‘colds and defluxions’.

All of these variations, in flavour, provenance and

appears to have been terribly excited about its

use, have led to a logical conclusion: if wine needs a

varieties and possibilities, until recently.

sommelier to explain the varieties, match different

The commercial world is now waking up to tea.

blends with different foods, and generally draw the

There are so many varieties: from the fully oxidised

clientele in to a world of delicious complexity, then

black teas that the British historically love; to the

why not tea?

Tea is gentler than coffee, more obviously varied, and has – for the teetotal traveller – all of the advantages of the wine they do not drink. It is sociable, delicious, and the history is fascinating.

green teas, where oxidisation is stopped prematurely

At the Dorchester, The Promenade Manager Petar

by the application of heat so the leaves retain their

Loncar tells me, there is yearly training for the

colour; or oolong teas, which are only partially

waitstaff, and anyone else in the hotel who wants to

fermented. And fruit teas? We ask waiter, Shyam

learn. This involves understanding the different kinds

Avadhani, of The Promenade: the elegant, plushly

(the hotel offers 25 teas) and the ideal brew times

upholstered home of afternoon tea at the Dorchester

for each one. They sniff and sample, and there are

Hotel in London. Fruit teas, he explains, are actually

blind tastings. The pastries for the afternoon tea are

an infusion. Still, here afternoon tea can begin with

designed, on a monthly basis, to match the teas, as

a Mango Splash, a flavoured flower tea that blooms

well as the flowers, for which the hotel is famous.

picturesquely in a clear glass flask. It is intended as

In Hong Kong, where the InterContinental boasts

decoration in the first instance and then a palate

that Kelvin Ng was the first official tea sommelier,

cleanser between the sandwiches and the scones with

the restaurant he oversees, Yan Toh Heen, has paired

clotted cream and homemade jam.

rare teas with a set menu, each course designed

Tea is gentler than coffee, more obviously varied, and has – for the teetotal traveller – all of the advantages of the wine they do not drink. It is sociable, delicious, and the history is fascinating.

The British passion for tea comes from China: they bought it for silver, then opium, and when the

to match the increasing strength of the brew as it evolves.

Not every tea novelty requires a sommelier, however. The chef at the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong enjoys creating dishes where pork meatballs or fried fish are infused with tea.

Chinese balked at the opium trade, Britain turned

As with wine, the world of fine tea is expanding

to planting tea in northern India - in Assam and

rapidly enough to merit a dedicated expert to show

Darjeeling, where the plant was already growing wild.

the novice drinker around. There have been teas

For the Russians, tea arrived overland along the

in Japan and Sri Lanka for a long time, but what

Silk Route, and the smokiness that resulted from the

about tea from Vietnam or Indonesia, Malawi or

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Tanzania - new tea-producing nations whose

explain the partial fermentation process and the

leaves The Langham in Hong Kong is trying on its

heightened fragrance of the resulting potion and

customers? Even Britain, better known for consuming

then brew the leaves to perfection. Back at The

tea than producing it, now boasts a few successful

Promenade, Avadhani arrays the un-soaked leaves in

plantations. Tregothnan Estate, the historic botanical

pretty pale green saucers. First flush Darjeeling has

garden in Cornwall, supplemented its ornamental

tiny leaves. Apparently those from the second flush,

rhododendrons and camellias with their relative

in September, will be bigger. Tiny grey-green pearls

camellia sinensis, the tea plant, in 1999. Soon after,

of jasmine unfurl when soaked; thick black leaves

a ferocious storm hurled all of the new plants over

create a striking contrast to slender slashes of Arab

a wall, but they persevered, and in 2005 celebrated

mint. The water is softened: the temperature varies

their first harvest: 25g, just enough for one pot.

from 85 to 90 degrees Celsius, with the delicate teas

These days the tea is in various hotels, including

brewed at lower temperatures for a shorter time than

Claridges and Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park – the

the more robust black varieties.

warmer microclimate, acidic soil and the humidity

you can play. You can mix leaves - large Assam, say,

believes, the ideal conditions. Clearly some of the

with tiny Ceylon. You can ask the guest what kind

F&B establishment agrees with them.

of thing they like, then create a blend to suit their

Dalreoch, a white tea grown in the Scottish Highlands and smoked using the wood of the

tastes.”

A luxurious plaything that offers delights for the

surrounding birch plantations, is a small-production

eyes, nose and mouth, without interfering with the

rarity with cachet - it won the prestigious Salon de

brain: tea, the commoner’s standby, can also be a

Thé prize in 2015. It is just what top-end hotels like

drink fit for royalty, when made by experts. China’s

to offer their customers. “I strongly believe that

Emperors, who surely had tea sommeliers of their

the tea of the future will come from small, organic

own, knew this centuries ago, but the rest of the

producers,” says Loncar. “These small plantations

world is now slowly but surely catching up.

will have a story to accompany their product, and will offer high quality tea in the kind of quantity that enables them to grant exclusivity to their suppliers.”

At the Dorchester shop, they used to sell Dalreoch tea retail for an eye-watering £750 for a 250g bag. It was snapped up, we are assured, by wealthy visitors from largely teetotal Arab countries: a luxury akin to fine wine, for those who do not want alcohol.

Joe Chan, The Langham Hong Kong’s beverage mixologist, says they have an English tea called the English Flower Blend, which contains chamomile flowers, rose petals, elderflowers, heather, lavender and cornflower - ideal for Anglophiles or homesick Brits. And like Loncar at The Dorchester, he is noting the rise of oolong teas. The most expensive tea on the hotel’s menu is an oolong called Da Hong Pao, grown in the Wuyi Mountains in China. It sets guests back HK$280, as opposed to HK$78 for a less exalted variety.

If The Langham and The Dorchester are noticing oolong and other exotic or expensive teas becoming more popular, that is because someone is there to

000

“Wine is already made,” says Avadhani, “with tea,

from the nearby creek giving the plants, the estate

TERRES DE RÊVES

Design by Anita Le Grelle

www.serax.com

You only become the biggest winegrower in Rioja when you know each grape from your vineyard.

EL_COTO_236x275_INGLES_GAMA.indd 1

A R T I S A N S O F W I N E

27/3/17 16:04

DRINKS

Zeshin

Fabala Love high quality alcohol but hate the inevitable, crushing hangover? With Zeshin – a new breed of sake that combines oil and water without an intermediary – highly regarded Japanese brewer Fabala seeks to eliminate the negative side effects of consumption.

Those drawn-out morning-after headaches, and the unquenchable thirst that follows a heavy night, may well be a thing of the past, as the brewing process used to produce Zeshin avoids traditional acetaldehyde producing techniques, the root cause of a hangover.

Retaining the same desirable taste as conventional sake, Fabala’s variant is free of additional chemicals and produced without

the grinding process that results in unpleasant aftereffects.

With an 18% alcohol content, Zeshin comprises sprouted brown rice Koji and boasts the flavour of a bold and dry white wine. It can also be matched with a wide variety of regional and international dishes and is intended to be served with ice or mixed with tonic water.

The growing consumer interest in sake has seen hotel bars opting for an increased selection from the category, with Fabala’s Zeshin representing a unique character in its production technique and brand story. www.fabala.jp

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Moutai

Kweichow Moutai With Kweichow Moutai’s market value recently closing at a record high of over 450 billion RMB, it could soon surpass Diageo as the world’s most valuable liquor company.

A result of both the strong demand throughout the Chinese New Year and the brand’s growing profile overseas, the results mark another step into the international consciousness for the historic company.

Produced for over 2000 years in the Guizhou province, Moutai – a brand of the Chinese distilled liquor baijiu - is among the most highly regarded Asian spirits, traditionally served in shot form with formal meals and given as a prestigious gift.

Attempts to produce the spirit elsewhere have failed, and resulted in lesser quality imitations - the defining, intricate aroma diluted.

Photography: Cammy France / China Moutai

116

Made of organic sticky sorghum, it takes five years to produce one bottle of Moutai. Distilled nine times then aged for three in ceramic pots, the production cycle mirrors the Chinese lunar calendar. The spirit is a product of natural fermentation, without the addition of any artificial additives, and is certified in China as a green, organic product.

The spirit’s longstanding success in China has precipitated a greater push into international markets, with Kweichow Moutai targeting the ontrade and seeking to further establish the brand in regions that have traditionally lacked awareness of the category, despite its popularity and prestige in China and other Asian nations. www.moutaichina.com

SIDES

“There is a theatre to it, which is always enjoyable in a cocktail bar.�

Agostino Perrone, master mixologist at Connaught Bar, on the return of the drinks trolley.

EVENT CALENDAR

118

GRIF

Imbibe Live

41 Madison

10th – 12th April 2017

3rd – 4th July 2017

17th – 20th October 2017

Dubai

London

New York

To The Table Europe

Tales of the Cocktail

Host

25th – 27th April 2017

18th – 23rd July 2017

20th – 24th October 2017

Lisbon

New Orleans

Milan

HOFEX

The Hotel Show

HX

8th – 11th May 2017

18th – 20th September 2017

12th – 14th November 2017

Hong Kong

Dubai

New York

NRA

Bar Convent Berlin

To The Table MEA

20th – 23rd May 2017

10th – 11th October 2017

14th – 16th November 2017

Chicago

Berlin

Muscat

SIDES

Ambiente 10 – 14 February 2017 Frankfurt

ProWein 19th -21st March 2017 Düsseldorf

Welcoming 141,000 buyers from 154 countries, Ambiente 2017 saw

Bringing the international wine community together in Düsseldorf from

visitors converge in Frankfurt Messe, with a 4% increase in visitor

19th to 21st March, ProWein is a leading trade fair for wines and spirits

numbers on last year’s event.

now in its 23rd year.

Taking place from 10th to 14th of February, 4,454 exhibitors

With over 6,300 exhibitors from 60 nations, the show includes all

were spread across 27 halls, presenting the latest trends and

relevant winegrowing regions of the world, plus a selection of 400 spirit

innovations to a selection of influential designers, operators,

brands. Wines created in renowned areas such as the Abruzzi, Veneto

buyers and decision makers. 55% of all visitors came to the event

and Bordeaux were showcased alongside new additions such as the

from outside Germany, whilst international exhibitors reached a

Dos Hemisferios winery from Ecuador, Pico Wines from the Azores and

record level of 80%.

creations by the Turnau winery in Poland.

This year, Great Britain was chosen as the event’s partner

Celebrating its debut at the event was the Asian Wine Producers

country, which saw an extensive presentation of British products,

Association, which unites a variety of Asian wine professionals and which

curated by Janice Kirkpatrick.

delivered exciting insights into the region’s beverage industry.

The top ten visitor nations after Germany were Italy, China,

ProWein’s supporting programme featured numerous tasting sessions

France, the USA, Spain, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands,

in the extended ProWein Forum in Hall 13 as well as in Hall 10. The line-up

Switzerland, South Korea and Turkey.

ranged from nationally oriented tasting sessions through to multi-origin

There was also above-average growth in the number of visitors

combinations.

from China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vietnam, as well as an

A notable highlight was the elegant Champagne Lounge, featuring 40

increase in delegates from the USA, Canada, Australia, Russia, the

tradition-rich Champagne producers, whilst elsewhere, in the Fizz Lounge,

United Arab Emirates and South American nations, such as Brazil,

bartenders including Tom Weinberger shifted the focus to coffee, wine and

Uruguay and Argentina. Next year, Norway has been chosen as

craft beer with interactive and immersive live demonstrations.

the Partner Country, with Ambiente 2018 taking place from 9th to-13th of February.

www.prowein.com

www.messefrankfurt.com

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SIDES

Global Restaurant Investment Forum 10th -12th April 2017 Dubai

25th – 27th April Lisbon

Welcoming top-level executives from industry areas including

Following successful MEA and Asia 2016 editions in Abu Dhabi and Taipei

investment, finance, development, branding, franchising, law,

respectively, To The Table Europe marks the first event of the forum

architecture and government, the fourth Global Restaurant

programme for 2017.

Investment Forum (GRIF) will take place from 10th -12th April at Fairmont The Palm, Dubai.

A three-day event comprising a comprehensive conference programme, networking opportunities and receptions, and

Taking place at Ritz Carlton Penha Longa, Lisbon, it will bring together influential senior decision makers for two days of networking, face-toface meetings and an insightful conference programme covering topics including restaurant design, development and branding.

interactive elements including a culinary tour of Dubai, the event

The conference element will be hosted and moderated by Supper Editor

welcomes some of the most significant figures in the global F&B

Harry McKinley, with confirmed speakers set to include Adam Tihany of

sector.

Tihany Design, who will be discussing his prolific career onstage; Amir

The conference programme will cover topics including the latest developments, trends and practices, as well as interviews

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To The Table Europe

Nahai, CEO Global Food & Beverage, Accor Hotels; and Chef Pedro Almeida of the venue’s in-house Midori Restaurant.

with chefs and forecasts from top economists. Supper Editor

Curated specifically to serve the F&B industry, the event connects

Harry McKinley will host a panel on ‘Demystifying Restaurant

prestigious hotel and restaurant brands with the suppliers currently

Development’, which will look at the opportunities and challenges

driving the industry, seeking to promote and facilitate future business

across the restaurant development process, and which features

between buyers and suppliers.

Toufic Akl, Partner, Operations, Hodema Consulting Services; Naim

To The Table Europe marks the first dedicated European forum. having

Maadad, CEO, Gates Hospitality; Dr Nnaeto Orazulike, Founder

previously been part of a broader EMEA event. To The Table’s 2017 MEA

& Group Managing Director, Genesis Group Nigeria; and Shelia

edition will take place in Oman from 14th -16th November, whilst To The

Turner, COO, Puccini Group.

Table Asia is slated to return in October 2018.

www.restaurant-invest.com

www.tothetableeurope.com

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SIDES

HOFEX 8th -11th May Hong Kong

Tendence 24th – 27th June Frankfurt

HOFEX, Asia’s leading food and hospitality trade show, will return

Taking place from 24th to 27th June at Messe Frankfurt, Tendence will

to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from 8th to

showcase important new products and innovations in the furnishing and

11th May. Offering a wide array of the products, developments

living sectors.

and exploring the latest trends in the catering industry, HOFEX

Offering the European retail market an overview of new trends for the

will feature a series of immersive stands curated by over 2,500

coming year, under the guiding motto of ‘two seasons, one date’, Tendence

F&B exhibitors, representing 56 countries, and spread across 44

will bring together buyers and suppliers for extensive networking and

dedicated nation-specific pavilions.

business opportunities. Further, thanks to revised dates at the end of June,

Celebrating it’s 30th anniversary, this year’s show will welcome

it is now possible for Tendence to occupy six new halls.

suppliers from the UK, USA, Japan, Australia, Austria, Belgium,

“Our aim was, and is, unequivocal: growth in terms of both new

Greece, Italy, Korea, Spain and Taiwan, alongside new stands

exhibitors and new visitor target groups. We have very nearly achieved this

highlighting the best from debut exhibitors hailing from Latvia,

goal,” explains Philipp Ferger, Group Show Director of Tendence. “Hall 8.0

Ukraine, Georgia and Belarus.

with the seasonal decorations and home segments is already overbooked.

Confirmed exhibitors include brands such as Tiger, Serax,

The growth strategy is proving a success in the home-textiles segment

Libbey, Jura, Frilich, Riedel and Pordamsa, alongside emerging

and the outdoor product group is also flourishing. In a nutshell, we are

names aiming to spur growth in the international market.

on the right track.”

Promising a truly global experience, HOFEX 2017 will provide

This year’s event will see the launch of the new Impulses by Tendence

an insight into the latest F&B developments; wines, spirits and

area in Hall 11, which will offer an immersive exploration of European

beers; ingredients; interior design and supplies; and state-of-the-

retail against the backdrop of digitalisation, as well as a special outside

art service and preparation technology.

exhibition area highlighting exterior products and accessories.

Further, running parallel is the Asian Catering Equipment Awards, which will honour manufacturers and designers of foodservice equipment, with a focus on sustainability and future profitability in particular. www.hofex.com

122

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www.tothetableforums.com For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

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Off Your Trolley Once dated, now desirable, the drinks trolley has returned to the hotel world with a vengeance. Today, style and service meet in a throwback that feels fresh once more.

Words: Kristofer Thomas

I

n 2016, online furniture store Wayfair observed a

Gotham, the Jouin Manku-designed Alain Ducasse

173% increase in the sales of drinks trolleys, whilst

au Plaza Athénée, and Cut at 45 Park Lane - where

design outlet Swoon Editions recorded a similar

the launch of a new Bloody Mary menu has all but

spike, noting a 230% rise by the end of the year.

demanded a new trolley from which to serve.

Though largely wheeling out of popularity in the

More than simple conversation piece or ostentatious

mid-1970s, the drinks trolley is experiencing a surge

accessory, the drinks cart functions at once as

in popularity. No longer seen as an antiquated relic

complementary aesthetic element, efficient service

of hotels past, they are returning to service with all

tool and theatrical talking point, simultaneously

of their mid-century, Mad Men-associated glory

heightening the presentation experience and distilling

arranged atop.

brand identity into stylish and often bespoke hardware.

“Our guests have been incredibly positive. There

Through the heart of The Connaught Bar, for

is an element of surprise when they have the martini

example, has been placed a runway purposely installed

trolley wheeled to them,” explains Agostino Perrone,

for Inkorporate’s trolley, so ingrained it now is in the

director of mixology at The Connaught Bar, London,

experience of the room. “The design reflects key visual

where a dedicated trolley service has been seducing

elements from the bar, which was designed by David

drinkers since 2015. “There is a theatre to it, which is

Collins Studio,” continues Perrone.

always enjoyable in a cocktail bar,” he adds.

124

In this context, the drinks cart can be deployed as an

Designed bespoke for Connaught Bar by London-

element of the design scheme as opposed to just a piece

based studio Inkorporate, the venue’s Martini trolley

of equipment: a mobile piece of micro-architecture that

marked the property out as an early re-adopter of the

both enhances the overall aesthetic and condenses the

trend, and it is now joined by similar design-driven

bar’s design into an interactive focal point. As Wesley

hotel F&B programmes, including Manchester’s Hotel

Pickering, managing director of Inkorporate, explains:

SIDES

Agostino Perrone, Connaught Bar, The Connaught, London

126

SIDES

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris

In this context, the drinks cart can be deployed as an element of the design scheme as opposed to just a piece of equipment: a mobile piece of microarchitecture that both enhances the overall aesthetic and condenses the bar’s design into an interactive focal point.

“When designing the trolley we were aware that the bar had recently

it encourages. “The Martini trolley adds a level of treatment that

been refurbished, meaning the piece needed to fit seamlessly with

our guests wouldn’t usually expect,” notes Perrone. “They have a

the new look. As such, we used many of the same materials and

chance to converse with the bartenders when making the Martinis,

some of the detailing from the room. The end-result is that the

and they have a chance to customise it, which is very special.”

trolley is so in-tune with its environment, most people assume it has always been there.”

As the Connaught’s trolley moves throughout the bar, guests are given the opportunity to directly interact with the drinks, as well as

At Hotel Gotham, which boasts neoclassical architecture and a

with the staff mixing them. More than the traditional bar system,

design scheme dominated by Art Deco detailing, the martini trolley

it allows for a higher degree of personal service, one that provides

service reflects visual elements of Edwin Lutyens’ historic building,

a tailored experience and places the guest at the centre. Pickering

as well as the lavish Squid Inc. created interiors, smartly bridging the

agrees, noting: “It was the idea of bringing the guest closer to the

gap between eras with a roving service that ventures to guestrooms

creation of the drink that inspired the martini trolley to begin with.”

as well as throughout the bar.

By allowing the guest a direct insight into their drink and the

Drawing from the hotel’s ornate detailing, polished wooden

process behind it - be this in the Connaught bar or one of Hotel

counters and period architectural flourishes, the design of Gotham’s

Gotham’s 60 guestrooms - these hotels are able to simultaneously

Martini trolley channels mid-century luxury through a brass finish

create a more inclusive environment, wherein guests and staff are

and an intricate skeletal frame, amplifying the surrounding scheme

encouraged to converse and cultivate a more welcoming, personal

without ever distracting from it; a prop as opposed to a product.

and ‘individualised’ atmosphere. As the trolley rolls by at Cut at

Likewise, as part of Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku’s design for

45 Park Lane, diners are offered multiple flavour and ingredient

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée – a restaurant space defined by

variations, and the chance to converse with Maurizio Palermo -

soft curves and accentuated by precious chandeliers and solid oak

the hotel’s head bartender - about the intricacies of their drink.

tables – the drinks cart again incorporates aesthetic elements of the

The trolley’s original run of popularity, throughout the mid-

interior scheme into its design. The trolley’s curved silver casing

20th century up until the early 70s, came to an end due to a

reflects the luminous screens and polished mirrors that divide the

desire to simplify the service process, as well as free up space to

room, whilst its sliding compartment doors mimic the flowing

accommodate more guests. However, with the emergence of the

silhouettes of the seats and entranceway ironmongery, as well as

boutique hotel and a wealth of design-led F&B destinations keen

the smooth grain of the oak.

not to sacrifice style or service quality, the cart has made a return

This visual reflection and integration into the space, however,

in order to act as a mediator of sorts. The drinks cart now rolls by

perhaps plays second fiddle to the other side of drinks trolley

once again to serve guests whilst serving to tie a complete drinks

culture: the intimate human element and interaction with the drinks

experience together.

127

Scarfes Bar

John Jenkins To mark the launch of Rosewood London’s new cocktail menu, renowned glassware brand John Jenkins has designed a collection of bespoke pieces for the hotel’s Scarfes Bar. Featuring a series of elegant silhouettes adorned by a delicate singleline design, the Scarfes Bar collection is inspired by both the aesthetics and history of the space.

“The design was based on the Scarfes Bar, named after the caricaturist Gerald Scarfe,” explains Lisa Gibson-Keynes, design director at John Jenkins.

“So what I really wanted to do was to think about a sketch line, and take that line for a walk around the glass.” The result is a family of seven vessels, each with a simple freeform line wrapping around its bowl that mimics the sketched lines of Scarfes distinctive style.

“We were thrilled with how the glassware collection was executed,” comments Martin Siska, Bar Manager of Scarfes Bar. “In terms of aesthetic and practicalities, we wanted each glass to perfectly suit the experience while being tailored to each beverage. We worked collaboratively with John Jenkins to advise on the exact sizing of the glass we

needed and also voiced the need for the glassware to have stable bases.”

It is this detailed level of consideration that initially drew Rosewood to working with John Jenkins, as well as the brand’s reputation, as they sought an appropriately unique glass to suit the distinct character of the bar and its namesake.

The Scarfes Bar is inspired by the atmosphere of a drawing room and the sophistication of a gentleman’s club, and features a roaring fire, a collection of cosy velvet armchairs and shelves filled with over 1,000 antique books hand-picked by a Portobello antiques dealer. Serving a wide range of comfort food, the menu at Scarfes Bar offers a selection of curries and kebabs, as well as an express lunch menu, whilst the cocktail menu is populated by inventive and exotic concoctions.

“The creative process with John Jenkins is very much shared. They are receptive to my team’s ideas and understand the practical requirements of glassware that needs to work in a busy hotel bar,” continues Siska. “As we have worked together before, the team at John Jenkins really understands our needs. Gerald’s caricatures often use fluid lines and we wanted to nod to his work by including a distinct curved line around the top of the glass.”

Having worked with a plethora of high profile properties, including Gleneagles Hotel, The Lanesborough and various Mandarin Oriental projects, John Jenkins’ reputation within the industry has led to a series of bespoke collaborations largely through word of mouth. These partnerships take into account multiple aesthetic and thematic elements of each given environment, resulting in glassware that acts as a condensed encapsulation of each space’s key aspects.

“John Jenkins made the perfect partner for Scarfes Bar’s new glassware because of the strong working relationship we have built together. John Jenkins also has an excellent reputation in the industry and it is a pleasure working with their team,” Siska adds.

Started in 1901, the John Jenkins brand has, for over a century, provided the hospitality industry with stylish and practical glassware that complements both drink and table. Creating bespoke pieces for establishments ranging from traditional fine dining restaurants to stylish and contemporary bars, the brand has demonstrated consistent quality through its uniquely personal approach.

“The glasses are bespoke, and specific to our customer,” Gibson-Keynes concludes. “We want to make sure that what we’re doing is unique to them, and that they take ownership rather than us pushing our brand.” www.johnjenkins.co.uk

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PETITS FOURS

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PETITS FOURS

Front

Figgjo Front features a selection of Figgjo’s most innovative and unconventional products. Comprising pieces developed to create and capture the latest dining room trends and demands, the range allows both service and kitchen professionals to create new experiences at the table. Front seeks to elevate guests’ experiences through elegant designs by Erik L. Lindberg, Constance G. Kristiansen, Tonje Sandberg, Olav Joa and Jens Olav Hetland, among others, The range’s originality provides a canvas for the chef’s creativity in terms of presentation, offering wide variation in usage. Featuring distinctive plates, pots, bowls, platforms and serving dishes - all in sharp white finishes - Front offers a distinctive taste of Norwegian design and functionality. www.figgjo.com

131

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PETITS FOURS

Lady and Beak Nude

Designed by Tomas Kral exclusively for Nude, the Lady and Beak ranges comprise a selection of jugs and tumblers, with the former inspired by the elegant collars and pleated folds of royal dresses. Created with the same sense of finesse and detail as this regal touchstone, the Lady collection echoes 16th century royal courts with a ruffled carafe and scalloped base, while Beak features tall-necked jugs with a beak-like spout. Beak is designed to hold both water and wine, with the accompanying tumbler matching the geometric silhouette of the jug. Both collections boast memorable, distinctive and unconventional aesthetics, without sacrificing a strong focus on function and durability. www.nudeglass.com

133

PETITS FOURS

Sage and Samphire

Fluen

Falcon’s range of tumblers and mini tumblers now sees the addition of two limited edition options: Sage and Samphire. Combining longlasting durability with a minimal design, both colourways are suited to a broad spectrum of interiors and are a simple, understated choice for bar and restaurant spaces. The tumblers are 9cm tall and hold 310ml.

Mini tumblers are 6cm tall and hold 124ml.

Fürstenberg’s Fluen collection of tableware features gentle, flowing movements, fine lines and two optional patterns designed by Alfredo Häberli. A universal solution, Fluen offers unobtrusive forms across a series of striking individual pieces. Alongside the white forms, the series is available in Shifting Colors, which features colourful design elements intended to grow in impact as individual items are laid on top of each other.

Falcon

Fürstenberg

www.falconenamelware.com www.fuerstenberg-porzellan.com

Polar Iceberg Water

Amarah

Made with meltwater collected in the Norwegian island territory of Svalbard, Svalbarði’s Polar Iceberg Water is bottled by hand, capturing the liquid in its purest form, and is unaltered by any chemical filtration processes thus retaining the water’s natural composition and taste. The water is almost entirely mineral free and features elegant branding suited to the top tier hospitality sphere, either in a hotel’s public spaces or as an in-room option.

Inspired by the four elements, Villeroy & Boch’s Amarah décor features gentle natural tones of taupe, red sun, terra and aquamarine. With Oriental undertones, its antique nature makes it ideal for a wide range of presentation needs, acting as an eye-catching feature within both fine and casual dining environments. A fine craquelure effect further underscores the antique sensibility, with the collection primarily based on the characteristic items of Villeroy and Boch’s Marchesi, New Wave and Caffé Club collections.

Svalbarði

www.svalbardi.com

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Villeroy & Boch

www.villeroy-boch.com

PETITS FOURS

MartelĂŠ Bar Collection Robbe & Berking

Constructed from highly conductive silver that allows each vessel to assume the temperature of the beverage, Robbe & Berking’s newly released MartelÊ Bar Collection has been designed with both tradition and experience in mind.

Designed by Robert Berking, the finely modulating hammer finish allows for soft facets to be created, each reflecting light and providing the collection with an inimitable vibrancy and intricacy. Furthermore, the collection can be engraved with personalised designs allowing hotels to combine the distinctiveness of the range with their own unique branding. www.robbeberking.com

136

M I N I M A L D E S I G N, M A X I M U M I M PACT The ultimate in culinary design, the Elements Live Cooking Station is a stylish yet affordable presentation station designed to showcase your chef’s culinary skills.

Offering mobility and simple set up, its flexible configuration allows you

to include the options of a high quality induction cooking or warming unit, and a lower level utility shelf.

Perfect for every F&B occasion, the Elements Live Cooking Station will surely impress your guests and leave them with a memorable dining experience.

info@ramler.com www.ramler.com

PETITS FOURS

Blue Impression

Half & Half

Blue Impression from Jaune de Chrome Paris is inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and is comprised of a series of pieces that each features slight variations in pattern and form. The collection is created through a unique process that sees enamel and metal components mixed and applied to porcelain, creating a variety of striking patterns and merged tones that come together in a poetic whole.

Combining coloured and clear crystal, Waterford’s Half & Half collection is inspired by the practice of colour blocking. The range contrasts functional forms with bold, sumptuous tones, while incorporating the heritage cuts of the Waterford brand. The design of each vessel playfully accentuates its liquid contents and each container is available in six colours.

Jaune de Chrome

Waterford

www.waterford.co.uk www.jaunedechrome.com

Accidental Expressionist

Fatto a Mano

Martyn Thompson Studio has joined forces with design-led ceramics company 1882 Ltd. to launch the Accidental Expressionist collection, a range comprising a patterned teapot, two cups and two saucers. The glazing is hand applied across the whole collection, making each piece unique, whilst the splatter pattern that defines the range celebrates Thompson’s love of the accidental.

Riedel’s collection of varietal-specific wine glasses features colourful handmade stems and bases constructed with traditional Venetian glassblowing techniques. Unadorned and slender, Fatto a Mano – which means handmade in Italian - combines the sophistication of handmade glass with the latest glass making technology. The range is available in six shapes as well as a special edition monochrome twisted stem version.

www.1882ltd.com

www.riedel.co.uk

Martyn Thompson Studio, 1882 Ltd.

138

Riedel

THIS IS WHERE I MAINTAIN BILLY DEC Chicago, IL President/Founder, Rockit Ranch Productions Attendee since 2004

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PETITS FOURS

Dutchdeluxes

Leather Aprons Handmade in the Netherlands, Dutchdeluxes’ aprons are constructed from 100% full grain leather that develops a distinctive natural patina as it ages, creating a soft sheen across the surface of the material. Finished with a transparent dirt-repellent coating and presented in a gift box, the Classics range features four earthy shades, while the Colours family offers various striking primary shade coatings that can adapt to a wide variety of restaurant and bar designs. Easy to rinse and clean, Dutchdeluxes’ aprons can at once provide an extra level of hygiene and a uniform option with style at its heart. www.dutchdeluxes.com

140

Moonscape

Carbone

www.porcelaine-legle.com

PETITS FOURS

Manhattan

Gin

Inspired by Gatsby-era New York City and crafted in mirror polished steel, Georg Jensen’s Manhattan collection is a sleek barware range featuring a clean geometric style. Drawing influence from Art Deco as well as Jensen’s own 1922-released Pyramid collection, Manhattan brings together sharp lines and architectural forms in a ‘complete universe of styles’ for entertaining, from coasters to champagne buckets.

Offering subtly flared stems, tapering forms and thick bases, Gin by LSA is a handmade collection of gin glasses and serving accessories.

Characterised by tactile combinations of mouthblown glass, natural wood and leather, and complemented by coloured, textured and iridescent finishes, the collection provides a contemporary and sleek serving solution that taps into the modern preoccupation with all things gin.

Georg Jensen

LSA

www.georgjensen.com www.lsa-international.com

Junto

Nick & Nora

Rosenthal

Oneida, Stölzle

Designed by TonettiDesign and Mario Padiglione, Junto is a subtle fusion of fine porcelain, sleek ceramic and warm wood. With muted colours and organic shapes, the porcelain features a diamond relief that tapers towards the centre, creating a memorable form. Additionally, to provide contrast to the porcelain, the collection also offers vibrant, earthy stoneware finishes with a special reactive glaze.

Crafted from high quality, lead free, clear crystal glass, Oneida’s Nick & Nora glass was designed in collaboration with Stölzle as part of a threepiece series that also includes Copa Gin and Tonic, and nosing glasses.

Drawing inspiration from the aesthetics of the 1930s, the Nick & Nora features a larger bowl than the typical Martini glass, holding ingredients in a way that allows the aromas and flavour to reach the drinker with every sip.

www.rosenthal.co.uk

142

www.oneida.com

Introducing handcrafted silver ‒ Made in Germany Form and function combined with our silversmiths‘ decades of experience have resulted in the creation of unique and high-end silver tableware and cutlery.

For more than 150 years, customers from all over the world have been enjoying our exquisite collections as well as the prospect of meeting even the most extraordinary requests for custom-made products.

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PETITS FOURS

Revolution Fferrone

Strikingly simple in form, the Revolution collection is handcrafted in the Czech Republic by master glassblowers and formed from a pure extrusion of handblown borosilicate glass. The collection comprises six designs including tumbler, stemware, bowl and glass elements.

Designed by Felicia Ferrona, the collection reimagines the landscape of the table, with the contents within the vessels seemingly defying gravity and floating in the air. The Revolution collection was Fferone’s first release, and is now a part of the permanent collection at the prestigious Art Institute of Chicago. www.fferronedesign.com

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PETITS FOURS

Forma

LinQ

Exploring the theme of tabletop architecture, Alessi’s Forma grater was the last project by Zaha Hadid for the brand. Inspired by natural forms smoothed over time by water and wind, the sculptural black base and ergonomic stainless steel grater mirror the studio’s distinctive architectural style whilst offering a durable and functional tableware solution.

A collection of stackable glasses by Libbey, LinQ features a translucent grey finish and a sophisticated silhouette. Satisfying both function and aesthetic demands, LinQ offers a timeless design, versatility to suit a wide range of environments and the strength necessary to withstand the day-to-day trials of bar life and consistent use.

www.alessi.com

www.foodservice.libbey.eu

Alessi

Quadro

WMF Professional Featuring greater holding capacity thanks to its four-cornered design, as well as an external pouring rim to help streamline service, Quadro expands on WMF Professional’s previous buffet ranges with an updated design. Space saving, stackable and dishwasher safe, Quadro offers a distinctive buffet solution guaranteed to be suitable for all types of hob. www.wmf.com

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Libbey

Induction Chafing Dishes Tiger

With an infinite stop motion hinge, three colour accents and a water recycling system, Tiger’s Induction Chafing Dishes provide efficient, sustainable and long-lasting functionality housed within a sleek stainless steel, black or rose gold banded design. Also featuring a counter handle for easy and safe level transport, Tiger’s latest innovation can be integrated into a wide range of environments. www.tigerhotel.co.kr

2.0

&

8.0

Recommended by F.Sommier Best French Sommelier MOF 2007

Wine by the glass: Maintain the sommelier’s gesture

Bring red or white wine to their perfect serving temperature A capacity from 2 to 14 bottles depending on the chosen model

D r ink

r esp o n s ibly .

ECP_AP-WB2et8-0317-GB.indd 1

Preserve open bottles for up to 10 days Highlight your wine by the glass offer

www.eurocavepro .com

EuroCave -10/2016 - RCS : 342 116 415 - Non binding photos.

Photo credits: Jacques Mateos, Studio Guy Renaux,Royal Monceau Paris, Le Selcius Lyon.

to offer qualitative service at each guest’s table

30/03/2017 10:00

PETITS FOURS

Byzance

Wedgwood Byzance, a dinnerware collection from Wedgwood, combines the eclectic geometric designs of Byzantine architecture with the brand’s high quality fine bone china. Offering a palette of rich sapphire and ruby hues, eye-catching pattern and embellished with 22ct gold, the opulent collection is designed to make a bold statement. Comprising different sized plates; cereal, pasta and serving bowls; teaware and cream, sugar and espresso cups and saucers; Byzance features expressive kaleidoscopic motifs and tessellated accents intended to embody a modern attitude, inspired by classic Greek themes. www.wedgwood.co.uk

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ADVERTISING INDEX

41 Madison

121

Mepra 107

Bonna 087

NRA 139

Champagne Jacquart

153

Ramler International

CHEFfield Presentation

144

Robert Welch

Cognac Frapin - Champagne Gosset

027

Sambonet 025

Destilerías MG

006

Serax 113

004

Dutchdeluxes 156

Sonja Quandt

EuroCave 148

Stölzle 043

Faustino 151

Tafelstern 009

Fonderia Finco

021

Tendence 063

Georg Jensen

093

Tiger 057

Grupo Barón de Ley

114

To The Table - Europe

Heritage Collection

033

To The Table - MEA

143

040 123

HOFEX 135

Utopia 089

Hotel Show Dubai

132

Valombreuse 084

John Jenkins

031

VEEN 037

Jumbo 010

Villeroy & Boch

Kalisher 061

Wedgwood 013

Karaca 130

Wi Q

La Tavola

101

WNK 075

Legle 141

Zieher 047

Libbey 095

Zwiesel Kristallglas

LSA 049

150

137

045

147

099

Please drink responsibly

com

THE WASHING UP

I live will, for the next few months, be providing me with an incredible range of magnificently flavoured fruits, herbs and other plants, that I will be able to use in the drinks that I make for a living.

For more than the last decade I have taken a great deal of pleasure in foraging for some of the ingredients to use in cocktails. I have done this not only in the countryside but also in very big cities and have always found something of interest.

My reasons for loving foraging are fourfold. Firstly and most importantly, the flavours I find in wild ingredients are very often unique and incredibly potent. Most commercially grown crops, although they have their origins in nature, have been bred not for flavour but to make them easier to grow on a large scale. Secondly, who doesn’t like to get something for free? I know I do. Thirdly I believe that when done responsibly, foraged ingredients are much more sustainable

Oft Overlooked Jewels Words: Nick Strangeway

I

t may seem perverse to most of you that I have spent

and environmentally friendly than industrially farmed ones.

the last few weeks scrutinising the scrubby undergrowth

Finally and very importantly, I very much enjoy the way that

that lines the footpath I use to take my young kids to

going out and foraging for ingredients puts me firmly in touch

kindergarten. The treasure I am excitedly awaiting the

with nature and in a time when we live at a very fast pace I

return of is anything but exotic, or conventionally valuable.

am able to unwind, calm down and tune into my often lost

Indeed, most of us would regard it as a weed or pest and not

‘hunter-gatherer’ past.

only that, but also one that can cause us some degree of pain or irritation.

This year spring has come a little later than usual where I

Overlooked Jewel (or Nettle Gimlet)

live in Denmark and all my efforts to spot the plant I have been

50ml Hepple Gin

avidly seeking have been in vain. That is until just now, when I

25ml nettle cordial (recipe below)

spot the delicate and vivid, green and purple tinged shoots for the first time this year. I cannot contain my excitement and

Shake both ingredients on cubes of ice in a cocktail shaker until

foolishly grab at them with my bare hands, nipping the stems

stingingly cold. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

at the level of the still chilly soil. I stuff as many as I can find into one of the small zip-lock bags that I always carry with

Nettle Cordial

me. The pain is not immediate but comes on very intensely

200g freshly picked nettle tips

after about twenty minutes and remains with me for several

1kg caster sugar

hours. Who would have imagined that even these small stems

500ml water

would pack such a painful and long lasting punch?

15g citric acid

I stuff the zip-lock bag in my pocket and head home to turn

7.5g malic acid

these pretty but painful stems into something tasty to drink.

So what has caused me such excitement and, at the same

Thoroughly wash the nettle tips and place in a large saucepan.

time, such pain? Nothing more than urtica dioica or stinging

Add the sugar and acids. Add 500ml of boiling water. Stir

nettles, as they are more commonly called.

thoroughly to dissolve the sugar and acid. Place on the lid and

While they do undoubtedly have a wonderfully unique

leave to infuse for 24 hours. Strain through a fine sieve and

flavour and colour when made into a cordial, I think what

bottle for use. Keep the bottles refrigerated for a longer shelf life.

excites me most about them is that they signal to me that winter is finally over and that the wild land around where

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www.strangehill.co.uk

www.dutchdeluxes.com

LEATHER APRONS & SERVING TRAYS