Supper - Issue 39

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

JOAN ROCA • FORTH – ATLANTA • ADAM REID

CONTENTS ISSUE 39 052

STARTERS

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Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa 046 Raffles at Galaxy Macau © Letizia Cigliutti

Annette

Le Grand Hôtel Cayré Paris

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La Méditerranée Robuchon 050

Four Seasons Resort at The Pearl-Qatar Doha

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Wonder Room

The Singapore Edition Singapore

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©Natelee Cocks

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MAIN COURSES 054

Santa Joana

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Zita

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Atlanta Locke de Santa Joana Lisbon Monteverdi Tuscany

© Matthew Williams

Forth

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CONTENTS ISSUE 39 SERVICE

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Chef’s Table

030

Back to the Future

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North Star

038

A Delicate Balance

044

The visionary Spanish chef behind StreetXO at One&Only One Za’abeel, Dabiz Muñoz shares his culinary inspirations and food memories.

Celebrated Catalonian chef Joan Roca reminisces about his decade-spanning career and looks ahead to a slew of new ventures.

A search for identity has defined Adam Reid’s career, and with his latest challenge, the distinctly northern rhythm that characterises his dishes finds its full expression. © Joan Pujol-Creus

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Daniel Moran considers how Como Hotels & Resorts develops its culinary programme to serve the best of both.

DINING Meals on Wheels

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As guests continue to seek memorable dining experiences, London’s luxury hotels embrace the theatre of the tableside trolley.

SIPPING Message in a Bottle

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Tequila Takeover

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Bringing natural effervescence to the role of Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town, Luvo Ntezo muses about the unparalleled wonders of wine.

REGULARS

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Entrée

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Drinks

097

Appetisers

027

Events

102

Signatures

079

Spotlight

104

Apéritifs

083

Petits Fours

107

Cocktails

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Washing-Up

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Challenging the stereotype, tequila is evolving into a multi-dimensional spirit that’s generating interest in Mexico’s hotels and beyond.

AF_Anuncio_SupperMagazine_236x275mm.pdf

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ENTRÉE

ON THE COVER Esperit Roca, Girona © Joan Pujol-Creus

Space to Grow here was a time when the bright lights of the city were

T

As well as there being less competition for business, there’s

the ultimate draw for hospitality hopefuls, whether it be

less competition for staff too. Also featured in this issue, the

first-time hoteliers seeking to build an empire or chefs

Culinary Director for Como Hotels & Resorts reveals that

and restaurateurs chasing culinary fame and fortune. In much

employee recruitment and retention is most challenging at

the same sentiment as the classic song lyrics, the long-held

its city centre properties, where there’s greater reliance on

belief has been that if you can make it in notoriously difficult

part-time temps.

markets such as New York, London, Paris and Singapore, you

Recent years have undoubtedly seen a rise in dining

can make it anywhere; for that reason, F&B ventures typically

destinations in rural locations, which come with the added

make their debut in city centre locations – where there’s

benefit of space; it could be gardens for growing herbs and

guaranteed demand, high footfall and a varied mix of tastes

vegetables to be served in the restaurant, or farmland for

and preferences.

raising rare breed beef cattle. Or as in the case of Joan Roca,

However, this isn’t necessarily the case anymore. Though

who speaks to Supper about his new restaurant-with-rooms

there’s still appeal to having a name in lights, the reality of

in the mountains outside Girona, the extra square-footage is

running a restaurant in any of the world’s top cities is tough,

being utilised in a range of innovative ways that contribute

as evidenced by the number of closures citing rising costs

to the growth of the business and its people. There’s a vast

as a key contributor to their demise. As a result, hospitality

wine cellar holding 80,000 bottles that will eventually become

professionals have been turning their backs on the metropolises

a storage hub for all Roca restaurants, and an exhibition

in favour of smaller cities and suburban locations, where rents

gallery that tells the Roca family story – components that

are lower and there’s less competition.

just wouldn’t have been possible in the heart of the city. More

This has come to the fore in this year’s AHEAD Americas

importantly, there’s space for an academy to train upcoming

awards, with entries in the F&B categories coming from less

talent, as well as an onsite distillery, enabling the Roca

typical destinations such as Savannah, Kentucky and Portland.

brothers to experiment with liquid cuisine and produce their

And it has also been acknowledged by the people and projects

own spirits to be sold at retail. As Joan puts it, there’s space

featured in this issue of Supper. Real estate developer Method

to continue the development of the Roca story; space to grow.

Co, for example, has ventured to an Atlanta neighbourhood for its latest property, opting to bring its varied culinary concepts to an underserved market rather than open in the more densely-populated Downtown area. The F&B-driven hotel and social club has quickly become a new meeting place for locals, thus driving better returns than perhaps if it were amongst a multitude of venues in a city centre location.

Catherine Martin • Managing Editor

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@SupperMag

THE BRIGADE EDITORIAL

COMMERCIAL

EVENTS

DESIGN

Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

Advertising Manager Rachel Chadwick r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk

Commercial Lead Kirsty Studholme k.studholme@mondiale.co.uk

Design Manager David Bell

Managing Editor Catherine Martin c.martin@mondiale.co.uk

Account Manager Georgia Spence g.spence@mondiale.co.uk

Event Manager Robyn Heaton r.heaton@mondiale.co.uk

SUBSCRIPTIONS

Marketing & Events Olivia Mavers o.mavers@mondiale.co.uk

Deputy Editor Abby Lowe a.lowe@mondiale.co.uk Editorial Assistant Hannah Currie h.currie@mondiale.co.uk

enquiry@sleeper.media

Production Jez Reid

CORPORATE Accounts ar@mondiale.co.uk Finance Director Amanda Giles Chairman Damian Walsh

SUBSCRIPTIONS

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APPETISERS

C

hina’s colossal culinary landscape is as

campaign catering directly to its customers. “I

boundless as its geography, with every

am thrilled to once again team up with director

jagged mountain and gently undulating

Chen Xiaoqing to take food enthusiasts on a

sand dune offering inspiration for a different

journey through the vast and diverse landscape

take on a particular dish. Renowned documentary

of China,” says Michael Malik, Chief Operations

director Chen Xiaoqing has made it his life’s

Officer, Greater China at Marriott International.

work to explore the correlation between these

“With this campaign, we will spotlight our

two themes, and now he’s teamed up with

Chinese restaurants and talented chefs to offer

Marriott International in the creation of Taste of

guests multi-faceted dining experiences that

Wonders, Flavors of North and South, a short film

allow them to connect with one another.”

The campaign also spotlights China’s

that explores the vibrant characters and culture behind Chinese cuisine.

gastronomic evolution, with growing emphasis on

The documentary, which delves into the

seasonality and quality, a shift that’s spearheaded

many-layered meaning of the Chinese word,

by an expanding middle class population. This

Xian – which can mean both ‘fresh ingredients’

trend and more were contemplated by China’s

and ‘delicate flavour’ – forms an integral pillar

leading F&B critics at the campaign launch,

Culinary Journeys Marriott International combines China’s soaring domestic travel rates with the country’s rich culinary history in its latest marketing campaign.

of Marriott’s wider ‘Taste of Wonders’ F&B

where a panel of industry insiders unpacked

campaign, in which more than 300 restaurants

the perspectives shaping the current industry

across Greater China are set to create special

landscape and shed light on the group’s future

menus based on themes such as seasonal

localisation strategy for catering.

cuisine, wine and tea pairings and home-style

Those changes are still in flux, but one

dishes. Each interpretation will then serve as an

certainty is the close connection between food

invitation to guests to embark on a cross-country

and emotion, the intricacies of which Chen

voyage of culinary discovery.

Xiaoqing uncovers in Taste of Wonders, Flavors

The campaign comes at a time when rates

of North and South. “Our ancestors took

of domestic travel within China are soaring. In

inspiration for the word Xian from the harvests

the second quarter of 2024, approximately 1.3

of the land, lakes and seas,” he says. “This single

billion domestic tourist trips were made, up 140

word represents not only a rich history, but also a

million from the same period in 2023 – a growth

philosophy about the cyclical rhythm of nature’s

of almost 12%, according to Statista. Meanwhile,

four seasons and their association with people’s

the country’s Transport Ministry reported

longing for home.” Enjoying a steaming hot,

staggering figures over a five-day holiday period

lovingly prepared plate is a visceral experience

this May, including 92 million rail trips; almost

that has the power to conjure complex memories

10 million flights; and 1.25 billion highway

and emotions. Brands do well to take note.

journeys. International arrivals have fallen since the pandemic, but domestically, the industry has never been stronger.

Using that intel, Marriott has created a topical

027

Life Tastes Sweet

© Matteo Carassale

B for Brilliant

028

Mauro Colagreco continues to tear up culinary

and more, that prioritise our connection with

traditions, this time by securing a distinguished

nature and commit to giving back to society.

B Corp certification for his restaurant, Mirazur

The goal is evolution of our relationship with

– the first three-Michelin-stared venue in the

cuisine and the safeguarding of the world’s

world to achieve the accolade. Awarded after

resources and biodiversity for future generations.

an intensive 18-month process, the highly

The demanding B Corp certification is the latest

lauded label is testament to the Argentinian

vital step on that journey. “We’re committed

chef’s rigorous, lifelong approach to social and

to supporting local economies and promoting

environmental performance. It has added to

education,” Colagreco says. “We also aim

Mirazur’s already bulging trophy cabinet, which

to improve the health and wellbeing of our

includes one of the World’s Best Restaurants

community, adopt sustainable practices, and take

(2019), the very first Zero-Plastic certification

our responsibility to protect seriously.”

(2020), a Michelin Green Star (2020) and a nod

The B Corp movement measures these

for Mauro himself, who was named the first

factors and more, and encourages continuous

UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Biodiversity.

improvement, with reassessment every three

Colagreco’s respect for people and planet was

years to guarantee ever-higher standards.

instilled at a young age, and as his career has

For a community determined to contribute to

flourished, he’s become the figurehead for the

the ecological and social transition of today’s

circular gastronomy concept. Respectful and

economic systems, it’s all par for the course. “By

visionary, it encompasses a series of actions

choosing what we eat, we choose the world we

spanning produce, recycling, carbon footprint

want to live in,” the inspirational chef concludes.

Stanley Tucci is a man of many talents.

Oscar-nominated, Emmy-award winning actor, director and producer; high-achieving scribe; deft hand with a cocktail shaker. In his latest venture, he combines all of the above, inviting readers on a 12-month journey through a cherry-picked collection of mealbased memories as he trots around the globe. ‘What I Ate In One Year’ is a personal, diarised ode to the profound role that food plays in our lives. Unfolding across restaurants, kitchens, film sets and press junkets, alongside friends, family and strangers, Tucci dissects the sometimes mouthwatering, sometimes inedible plates in front of him as a means of reflecting on life and our intimate evolutions as the seconds tick past. Equal parts poignant, funny and heartfelt, expect anecdotes about duck a l’orange eaten with fellow actors and cooked by singing Carmelite nuns, steaks barbequed at gatherings with friends, and meatballs made by his mother and son, then shared at the dining table with three generations of his family. An assortment of musings about the way meals add shape and emotional depth to our everyday existence, it’s a memoir that marks and mourns the passing of time.

APPETISERS

Comfort Food

Life and Lim

Nostalgia is a trend that shows no signs of abating and the latest

Afternoon tea just got an artistic makeover at Bvlgari Hotel London,

venture from The Wigmore in London taps directly into the theme.

thanks to a new collaboration with emerging sculptural artist,

The modern British pub, located within The Langham and overseen

Hannah Lim. At the heart of the project from the London-based,

by Michel Roux, has launched its Toastie Takeover series for a second

British-Singaporean designer is a reimagining of the classic tea

year due to popular demand, giving the school lunchtime favourite a

stand, transforming it into an intricate work of art that pays homage

luxury upgrade courtesy of a slew of celebrated chefs. The initiative

to Lim’s heritage.

is a tribute to the ultimate, soul-soothing comfort food, while also

Drawing from 18th-century Chinoiserie, the designs blend Asian

paying homage to the pub’s famous (and foot-long!) XXL Stovetop

motifs including flowers, plants and mythical creatures, with

Three-Cheese & Mustard Toastie, a menu must-have that’s been

vibrant colours and fluid forms. In another twist, the hotel façade

beloved by regulars for years.

has also been transformed by Lim’s signature style, turning the

José Pizarro, owner of the eponymous Spanish restaurants and

building itself into a sculptural experience. “The pieces are a mix

newly opened Lolo, kicked things off with a toastie inspired by his

between ornamental, creaturely, animistic and intricate - inspired

Spanish heritage, combining manchego cheese, jamón ibérico and

by my research, imagery and objects that have become symbols of

tomato jam. Meanwhile, Mexican chef Adriana Cavita has adapted

my heritage,” Lim explains. “The tea stands are an opportunity to

a popular taco recipe using slow smoked beef shin marinated in a

recreate a meeting of different cultures.”

guajillo adobo sauce and served with raclette cheese. Indian-born

Executive Pastry Chef-in-Residence Salvatore Mungiovino has

restaurateur Asma Khan, chef and owner of Darjeeling Express,

curated an afternoon tea menu that complements Lim’s beautiful

rounds off the series with a takeover just in time for Diwali. The

designs. Expect playful bites like La Fiamma, an indulgent cocoa

Karai Paneer Toastie is prepared on Ancient Bread, spread with butter

sponge with jasmine tea, ganache and a hint of grapefruit, or La

and mustard, stuffed with the tasty karai paneer filling and presented

Tigre, where caramel sponge and black sesame cream are married

with a chutney and chopped coriander garnish.

with orange jam and dark chocolate. This joyful menu is served in

What’s more, £1 from each toastie sold is being donated to The

The Bvlgari Lounge, offering elegant all-day dining in the comfort

Burnt Chef Project, a non-profit that provides support and education

and glamour of an Italian-style living room with a cosy fireplace

on mental health issues to those working in the hospitality industry.

for cooler days.

029

xxx

© Maxime Casa

CHEF’S TABLE

Dabiz Muñoz The visionary Spanish chef behind StreetXO at One&Only One Za’abeel shares his culinary inspirations and cherished food memories.

When did you first fall in love with cooking?

Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?

What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?

From a very young age – my earliest memories

I’m very eager to visit Barro in Ávila, Spain,

Anohni and the Johnsons.

as a child revolve around cooking.

which opened earlier this year. Led by Carlos Casillas, it’s a Michelin Guide restaurant that

Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?

What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?

focuses on ecologically-minded ingredients,

A wide variety in all languages, editions, versions

Plénitude at Cheval Blanc in Paris. It’s the

adopting a zero-waste philosophy while also

and cultures, by many chefs and writers. It’s an

perfect balance between cuisine and hospitality.

supporting local and small-scale producers.

obsession of mine.

Which chefs have inspired you?

Tell us about your most memorable meal.

Restaurant dining or room service?

Abraham García of Viridiana in Madrid. He’s

The most memorable meal would be the one I

Restaurant dining.

considered one of the pioneers of fusion cuisine

had in Mugaritz, a well-known restaurant in the

and his creativity is a source of great inspiration.

Basque Country, Spain. It was playful, avant-

Are you an easygoing or a demanding

garde and highly innovative.

restaurant customer?

How often do you dine out?

Easygoing.

Once a week and every day during vacations.

What’s your favourite dish, and who cooks it?

Sometimes I try two or three restaurants on the

Papaya shrimp and nutmeg flower curry by

Sweet or savoury?

same day!

David Thompson.

Savoury.

And your favourite drink to wash that down?

Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?

A glass of champagne – Jacques Selosse

Full-fat indulgence.

Substance Blanc de Blancs.

Which city is food heaven for you?

NOTABLE RESTAURANTS DiverXO, NH Eurobuilding Madrid; StreetXO, Madrid; StreetXO, One&Only One Za’abeel Dubai; RavioXO, Madrid www.diverxo.com

It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking

Singapore, Bangkok, Tokyo, Mexico City and

and what’s on the menu?

Madrid.

Myself. I’m cooking paella, grilled T-bone steak, sea bream and sheep’s milk croquettes.

Where do you get the creative inspiration for your dishes?

Who is your favourite person to cook for?

Anywhere and everywhere, but mainly while I’m

My daughter, Laia, and my wife, Cristina.

studying or running.

031

Back To The Future Celebrated Catalonian chef Joan Roca reminisces about his decades-spanning career and looks ahead to a slew of new ventures alongside his brothers.

Words: Joel Porter • Photography: © Joan Pujol-Creus

S

o far, 2024 has been a big year

The brothers now preside over a mini empire

for Joan Roca, the eldest of the

in Girona, but it’s El Celler de Can Roca that made

brothers behind the world-famous

them global superstars. Since opening in 1986,

three-Michelin-starred El Celler

the restaurant has been showered with awards,

de Can Roca. The unstoppable trio

winning three Michelin stars and twice named

has already launched Esperit Roca

number one on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants

– a restaurant-with-rooms concept that seeks

list – it now claims hall of fame status alongside

to reinterpret the iconic dishes of their world

previous winners like Noma and The Fat Duck.

famous flagship in an impressive location. Then

And while the cuisine has always been rooted in

came Vii, a wine bar in the centre of Girona. And

humble Catalan traditions, it’s the cutting-edge

still to come later this year is TimeSpirit at The

creativity and technical wizardry that it’s best

Macallan distillery in Scotland, marking their

known for – though there are multiple strands

first venture outside of Spain. All this in the

to the restaurant’s success formula, as Joan

same year that Joan celebrated his sixth decade.

explains. “In the beginning, I was interested in

“Even though I’ve turned 60, I’m still so

innovations like cooking at low temperatures,”

excited to work with my brothers and to

he says. “Later, I became obsessed with produce

continue cooking,” says Joan. “The three

and having high quality ingredients that were

of us have a very special relationship and I

seasonal and locally sourced. And today, we are

feel that we still gain so much energy from

very focused on the team, making sure they’re

working together. We are excited to open more

content and well taken care of. So now, all three

restaurants and to continue doing what we love.

stages of our past have combined to create what

I have no plans to stop!”

we are today.”

SERVICE

SERVICE

Seasonality and quality produce are at the forefront of the Roca approach, with dishes at the newly opened Esperit Roca a reimagination of classic dishes from El Celler de Can Roca

This multi-phase journey is celebrated at Esperit Roca, the new 15-bedroom hotel, restaurant, distillery and gallery located in an old 19th-century fortress atop the picturesque Saint Julia Mountain high above Girona. An exhibition space displays artefacts that regale the Roca family story to date, while the essence of El Celler de Can Roca can be seen and tasted on Esperit Roca’s menu, which reimagines classic dishes from the restaurant’s past.

“El Celler has been open for 38 years, so we had a lot of dishes to choose from when creating the menu,” Joan explains. “Seasonality and quality produce are, of course, always at the forefront, but we also wanted a chronology that showcases each stage and decade of El Celler.

So Esperit Roca is a means of understanding and acknowledging our history, and the dishes

“We wanted to create a chronology that showcases each stage and decade of El Celler, so Esperit Roca is a means of understanding and acknowledging our history, and the dishes and concepts that have brought us to where we are now.”

encompassing the castle, plus there’s an exhibition and the wine cellar. All this makes it very special.” In fact, guests pass through the wine cellar on the way to the dining room. A vast underground bunker lined with row upon row of racks, it will eventually hold 80,000 bottles, becoming the central storage hub for all the Roca restaurants.

Esperit Roca is the brothers’ second hotel, having opened Hotel Casa Cacao in central Girona in 2020. Although they weren’t especially looking to open another, the opportunity came to take over the St Julia fortress, which had been converted into the Sant Metges hotel in 2018, only to close during the pandemic. “As with El Celler, Hotel Casa Cacao is nearly always full, so this was a great opportunity for us to be able to host more guests,” notes Joan.

Much of the hard work was already done

and concepts that have brought us to where we

too. The old hotel structure, which features a

are now.”

Joan laughs when asked to pick a favourite

stunning curved concrete building sunk into

dish from the past four decades – perhaps that

the old fortress, rusted Corten steel roofing,

question is firmly embedded in the ‘name your

and an L-shaped outdoor swimming pool, was

favourite child’ territory! Gamely, however, he

ready to go. The interiors, which had previously

suggests the apple and foie timbale, a steamed

been themed around precious gems and stones, needed more work, however: “We remodelled a

parcel of foie gras, duck, vanilla oil and caramelised apple, which takes pride of place

restaurants. “Most of our dishes are made from

few spaces, repainted and replaced the furniture,

on Esperit Roca’s opening menu. “It’s one of

vegetables, with just small elements of fish or

lighting and artworks to bring our personality

my first dishes and one of our most successful

meat on offer,” he says. “It’s all part of our

to the property.”

to date, so it’s a nice choice,” he adds.

effort to be more sustainable and conscious of

The distillery is the final pillar of Esperit

Other favourites on the primary greatest

the impact we have on the world.” Meanwhile,

Roca’s appeal. Products include gin infused

hits menu (entitled 6/2 because it comprises

sweet-toothed fans can opt for the 2/6 menu,

with rock tea, a botanical that grows in the

six savoury dishes and two desserts) include

which features two savoury dishes followed by

rocky landscape around Girona and a liqueur

All The Prawn, a sensational dish of red prawn

six desserts. “That was Jordi’s idea,” laughs

made from Carob tree pods. “They represent the

marinated in seaweed vinegar, and Turbot

Joan. “He is an exceptional pastry chef so his

essence of the landscape,” Joan says. “We’ve

Trilogy, featuring grilled turbot fin, loin and

desserts are spectacular – very light, very low

been experimenting a lot over many years, and

carpaccio, seasoned with Kalamata oil and

on sugar. You can eat six and still survive!”

now, we can finally sell our first products in

served with semi-dried tomatoes.

Although Esperit Roca is inspired by its

the market.”

The menu is notable for having only one meat

predecessor, the dining experience remains

This close connection to the surroundings has

dish, an intentional decision on Joan’s part, who

unique. “The biggest difference is the setting,”

been a key theme throughout the Roca brothers’

employs the same ethos across all the group’s

Joan explains. “There are incredible views

careers, and perhaps part of the reason that,

035

SERVICE

“The three of us have a very special relationship and I feel that we still gain so much energy from working together.

I have no plans to stop!”

036

despite their international fame, they have

respect between Macallan and the brothers. “We

never ventured far from home – their various

have worked with Macallan and been visiting

businesses are all in and around Girona, where

Scotland for 12 years now, so this is a plan that’s

they grew up and still live. Indeed, multiple

been a decade in the making. Macallan is a very

offers to open international restaurants have

professional company, and the location is just

been received over the years, but Joan and his

stunning. Plus Scottish produce is among the

brothers have always turned them down. “We

best in the world.”

decided to stay here because our history is

So, if there’s no sign slowing down anytime

here, and a sense of place is the background to

soon, what could be next on the horizon? “Well,

everything we do. It makes sense for us to live

we still have so much to do on our current

and work here, to create our own ecosystems

projects,” Joan concludes. “We still need to

not only between our own businesses but with

develop part two of our exhibition, where we

all the other partners and producers we work

can thank all the people that have been a part

with. That way we can ensure the quality of

of our story. And there is another idea that each

everything is 100% how we want it to be.”

brother will have his own room to do what he

Which of course begs the question, why

likes with! After that, who knows? I want to

choose a whisky distillery in the Scottish

keep working, keep leading and keep passing on

Highlands as your first international foray? Joan

our passion to our team and our guests team.

is tight-lipped on TimeSpirit’s specific menu

We are thrilled to also have my son and nephew

details, but the project seems to be driven by

in the kitchen now too. This is very important to

a genuine passion for Scotland and a mutual

us – for our future, and for our legacy.”

North Star A search for identity has defined the career of Adam Reid, and with his latest challenge, the distinctly northern rhythm that characterises his dishes finds its full expression.

Words: Abby Lowe • Photography: © We The Food Snobs (unless otherwise stated)

L

ike most kids, when Adam Reid got home from

Anyone familiar with his work could probably answer that

school, he planted himself in front of the TV with

in a heartbeat, especially if they’ve eaten at The French,

a snack. Unlike most kids however, he settled in

where Reid has been behind the stoves since 2013, initially

for a session of Ready, Steady, Cook! and tucked

under the guidance of Simon Rogan, and then flying solo

into a nutritious bowl of salad, albeit one that was

when he became Chef Patron in 2016, eventually relaunching

drenched in dressing. “I absolutely smothered it in

the restaurant as Adam Reid at The French. His first move

salt and pepper and about half a bottle of salad cream,” he

was to begin dismantling the stuffiness often associated with

laughs. “So it wasn’t as healthy as it sounds!”

fine-dining restaurants, aligning it more with his personal

A lifetime later, and we’re at the showcase for Aether, the

style. That meant replacing pin-drop silence with music,

new private terminal at Manchester Airport, where Reid is

adding a chef’s counter and completely revising the menu

now responsible for feeding hopefully less weary travellers.

to spotlight a Lancashire-focused flex.

Dinner includes a choice of three mains, each served with

“When I took over, I had an opportunity to showcase

creamy mash and drum roll… salad dressed in homemade

northern hospitality,” he continues. “I didn’t really know

salad cream. It’s an apt encapsulation of Reid’s down-to-

what that meant at the time, but I wasn’t comfortable with

earth approach to cooking: an upscaling of heritage dishes

just doing what was expected of me, so I started with the

that’s entwined with his Mancunian roots, something he

environment. I knew that the food would follow.”

describes as modern British with a northern accent. He’s spent his entire career perfecting it.

The foremost goal was to make The French more accessible: “Any restaurant in the world can be pretentious if you feel

“As a chef, I think you have to tap into something,” he

like you don’t fit in” he notes. “But I wanted everyone to feel

explains. “And that’s either a passion that you have, or it’s

welcome. In hindsight, it probably took a while to figure out

just who and what you are. The challenge is how to bring

that’s what I was trying to do – but I’ve learnt that it takes

some personality to what I do; what’s the message?”

time to find out what your ‘thing’ is.”

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© Pantling Studio

© Pantling Studio

© Pantling Studio

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Adam Reid took the helm at The French in 2017, crafting a menu described as ‘fine-dining made local’

“I’m proud of all that I have accomplished. If the accolades come from doing what I do then great, but if they don’t, then so be it; I’m most interested in the feedback that comes from customers as well as my peers.”

Reid wasn’t plagued with any such uncertainty when

we were making was amazing – really precision. It wasn’t

deciding to become a chef – two weeks after finishing school

just about feeding people anymore; it was about excelling

at 16, he enrolled at Paul Heathcote’s School of Excellence

at that.” The next three years were spent immersed in this

in Manchester to start a catering apprenticeship. He credits

world of hyper attention to detail, but eventually he became

his mum with nurturing his innate interest in food growing

restless, feeling the call of home.

up, and reminisces about fond memories of going out with

Reid returned north and in a seeming twist of fate, was

his extended family for meals. “It was nothing special, just

offered a position at The Chester Grosvenor again, under the

down the local pub,” he says. “But I’d always have half a

stewardship of Simon Radley. But after years spent diligently

roast chicken with peas, roast potatoes and loads of gravy.

honing his skills, this time he felt ready for the challenge.

A roast is my favourite meal in the world.”

“I think I would have been eaten alive if I’d gone there a

Later, he began working at Bridgewater Hall under

few years before, because it was another level up again,” he

the guidance of Robert Kisby, a stint that laid essential

smiles. “It was demanding – I did six months in the pastry

foundations for the rest of his career. “Robert is a classically

section and we would often still be up at 2am cleaning pots!”

trained, traditional chef but he had quite a modern way of

He eventually moved up to the main kitchen as sous chef, a

working, so I learnt a lot about French cuisine,” Reid says.

role he says he wishes he had stayed in for longer. “I suppose

“Looking back, it was a really good grounding.”

I was a bit young, brash and impatient,” he admits. “But

A year in Germany with friends followed, where he passed as much time drinking beer and doing roly-polies across

after two years I was eager to start my own thing. I see now that I made the wrong decision at that point.”

dancefloors as in the kitchen (he describes it as his gap

Even so, life has a way of naturally ironing out the ripples,

year), and it was only after he came back to the UK and

and in 2013 things took another serendipitous turn when

spent another year working for Kisby at a different venue

Reid was put in touch with Simon Rogan, who was about to

that his interest in Michelin-level cooking was piqued.

take over The French at The Midland in central Manchester.

One day, without much thought, he typed ‘Michelin star

He was given his first head chef position, and has been

restaurant job’ into Google, and before long he was choosing

there, under various guises, ever since. He’s bagged 4AA

between roles at The Chester Grosvenor and Mallory Court

rosettes and myriad other accolades during his tenure, and

in Leamington Spa, which both boasted one star at the time.

twice appeared on BBC2’s Great British Menu, winning a

After some deliberation, he plumped for the latter, preferring

prestigious place at a banquet at Westminster Palace to

to work with a tight-knit team in a more intimate venue.

celebrate Great Britons of Her Majesty The Queen’s reign

“Before working at the Mallory, I’d been used to doing

with his memorable dessert, The Golden Empire.

good food but in the context of volume,” he explains. “But

All these achievements aside, it’s hard not to wonder what

this was a traditional country house hotel so we had room

the absence of a much-coveted Michelin star for Adam Reid

to use really interesting ingredients, which meant the food

at The French means for someone with an overtly driven and

041

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Dishes at Aether have a distinctly northern twang, and include the likes of smoked salmon crumpet and mashed avocado and rocket on fried rye

042

competitive nature. “It’s something to work

all about me,” he says. “It’s about the people

towards,” he says after pausing for thought.

who come here to start or end their journey in

“You need to refine in order to progress. But

the best possible way. So I’m bringing a food

I’m proud of all that I have accomplished,

offering that contributes to that experience,

especially because it comes from how I operate

alongside a bit of Manchester identity that gives

and the way I want to be. If the accolades come

passengers a sense of place.”

from doing what I do then great, but if they

Unsurprisingly then, the resulting dishes have

don’t, then so be it; I’m most interested in the

a distinctly northern twang. Think hot smoked

feedback that comes from customers as well as

salmon and scrambled crumpet for breakfast;

my peers.”

mincemeat gravy on toasted malt loaf for lunch;

Reid is preparing for a new batch of that

and stewed beef cheek with crispy sage, onion

with the arrival of Aether, a reimagining of

and bread for dinner. Classically humble but

the custom airport experience that offers all

with elevated flavours, it’s what you might

passengers, regardless of their ticket type,

have come to expect from Reid. Crucially for

access to an exclusive, Scandi-inspired lounge

him, it’s providing an unrestricted stage for his

with front-row runway views. It’s a first in

ongoing vision. “With experience, you figure

the UK, and Reid’s contribution is a specially

out what matters to you and how you’re going

curated menu spanning breakfast, lunch and

to use what you do to reflect that,” he says. “I

dinner. He developed the concept by blending

don’t think it’s normal to only appeal to a very

high-quality dining with convenience and

small amount of people. So yes, the lounge is

typical aplomb, plus a smidgeon of the wisdom

plush, but if you want to come, you can because

he’s amassed after so long in the industry.

everyone’s welcome. We’ll be really glad that

“I’ve grown up enough to realise that it’s not

you did.”

A Delicate Balance Today’s guests expect holistic wellness seamlessly combined with luxury. Daniel Moran considers how Como Hotels & Resorts develops its culinary programme to serve the best of both.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick

PROFILE Daniel Moran Culinary Vice President Como Hotels & Resorts Australian chef Daniel Moran earned his stripes in one of Sydney’s busiest kitchens, cult restaurateur Neil Perry’s trendsetting steakhouse Rockpool Bar & Grill. A strong sense of wanderlust led him to Europe in 1998 and later to London, where he worked at Damien Hirst’s Pharmacy restaurant, among others. Eventually, a friend working at Como Parrot Cay in Turks and Caicos persuaded him to move to the Caribbean, where he became the resort’s Sous Chef.

He has remained with Como Hotels & Resorts ever since, helping to launch multiple hotels all over the world and rising through the ranks to become Executive Chef and Group Chef, before transitioning to the company’s corporate arm and taking the reins as Culinary Vice President, a position he has held for six years.

044

T

he Como Hotels & Resorts portfolio

cardiovascular health. Consequently, dishes

comprises 19 properties worldwide, and the

such as supercharged bone broths and hearty raw

group’s reputation for unbridled opulence

salads appear regularly on menus, but the overall

and unwavering commitment to wellness has

approach refrains from being punitive, instead

established it as a leader within the luxury

encouraging a healthy and enjoyable culinary

sector. Its properties, which are divided into

outlook. “We have never been about a calorie-

the boutique brands, Como, Como Metropolitan,

counting style of cuisine,” clarifies Moran.

Como Uma and Como Shambhala Estate, span

“We’re here to cook very good, simple food,

contemporary urban hotels, family-friendly

keeping it clean and making sure that produce

resorts and sumptuous destination retreats

is fresh. We regularly work with nutritionists on

in far-flung locales, with each venue offering

the dishes we create.”

a guest experience that champions the Como

Como was an early pioneer when it came to

philosophy while reflecting the idiosyncrasies of

integrating clean eating into the luxury hotel

its specific geographic location.

experience. Its cookbook ‘The Pleasures of Eating

KEEPING IT CLEAN

Well: Nourishing Favourites from the Como Shambhala Kitchens’ was released by founder

Holistic wellness serves as the backbone of

Christina Ong in 2021, and in today’s landscape

the Como experience, with the group taking a

of increasingly sophisticated wellness proposals,

360-degree approach to health and wellbeing

its cuisine stands out for its relatively accessible

via a multifaceted offering that spans innovative

ethos. “It has moved into the mainstream and is

spa treatments, top-notch fitness facilities and

becoming a lot more technical,” says Moran of

nutritious, nourishing cuisine. Its signature

the evolution of clean eating as a concept. “Guest

Como Shambhala Kitchen concept promotes

preferences are changing; dietary restrictions

healthy whole foods that are low in sugar and

are changing. People 20 years ago didn’t have as

salt and completely free from artificial additives,

many dietary restrictions as they do now.”

with dishes crafted specifically with the aim of

The group takes a controlled approach to

benefiting various physical objectives. Improved

certain, more extreme aspects of the movement,

blood sugar stability and sustained energy

he explains, stating: “We don’t tend to follow too

are amongst the wellness intentions, as are

many trends but it’s important to acknowledge

craving control and the support of brain and

what’s going on in the dining sector. For

SERVICE

example, all our menus have plant-based options

underlines Moran. “This is part of our group as

are proving to be the trickiest when it comes

alongside a balance of other dishes because we

well - it’s not all health and wellness.”

to employee recruitment and retention. “City

believe that the body can eat meat and fish; we

The principles of balance also apply to the

locations are the hardest because there’s so

don’t need to go plant-based all of the time.”

bottom line, and business needs must be weighed

much competition out there,” he says. “There

dispassionately against the cachet of household

are always companies offering more money. The

names. “Of course, we’re always trying to work

labour market can be difficult to navigate.”

A BALANCING ACT Indeed, a respect for balance underpins the

with these people – it’s great to bring them on

For Moran, the answer lies in providing

entire Como ethos, which is why at each of the

board,” he elaborates. “But at the same time,

attractive opportunities for progression within

group’s properties, the Shambhala Kitchen eatery

that comes with a financial burden. You have

the company, allowing and encouraging

is complemented by a signature restaurant that

to do the numbers and the covers to support

employees to transfer between properties and

typically falls on the more indulgent side of the

these celebrity chefs.” He continues: “The goal

destinations as they gain experience. This is

gastronomic scale. This twin-pillar approach is

is to have Michelin stars and successful busy

particularly important, he believes, when it

particularly evident within Como Metropolitan,

restaurants. Often the chef wants a Michelin star,

comes to opening up leadership and management

whose sleek hotels in dynamic global cities often

while the owners want to generate revenue, and

pathways. “We have destinations in Indonesia,

feature headline destination restaurants such as

a lot of the time we need to find the balance

Thailand, Bhutan – places where we have young,

the beloved Japanese-Peruvian brand Nobu at

between having a successful restaurant, paying

passionate people that really enjoy cooking,” he

Como Metropolitan London and the Michelin-

the bills and actually creating a profit.”

says. “We train them up, so we have staff that

starred Thai eatery Nahm in Bangkok. Accolades

and

have been with us for 20 years and might have

are important to the group – La Torre at Castello

developing existing talent to cultivate top-level

been through four different hotels. We like to

Del Nero in Tuscany also has a Michelin star,

professionals. “We’re now starting to look within

have that cross exposure.”

and Moran singles out Como Le Montrachet in

the company to create our own Michelin-starred

Burgundy as the property the group hopes will

chefs,” he says. “But that takes time.”

catch the Michelin inspectors’ attention next.

High-profile chefs are equally as important.

One

solution

involves

nurturing

PLAYING THE NUMBERS GAME

Additional priorities include harnessing more guests to boost the overall portion of group-wide revenue that stems from F&B. It’s a figure he estimates currently sits at approximately 30%

Como Metropolitan Singapore, for example,

Talent, it transpires, is one of the most pressing

but would like to see bumped to 35% or more.

boasts a Korean steakhouse helmed by the

issues facing Como’s culinary division – and

After all, he points out, everything comes down

Michelin-starred chef Simon Kim, and a fanciful

the wider hospitality industry. “Staffing is

to balance. “A successful restaurant needs to

patisserie from the illustrious pastry maestro

a real challenge,” confirms Moran. Perhaps

have a balance between high standards, good

Cedric Grolet. “Celebrity chefs bring excitement

surprisingly, given the group’s range of remote

quality food and making money,” he concludes.

to the hotel and that’s very important,”

geographic locations, the global metropolises

“That’s the most important thing.”

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STARTER

Sushi Kissho

by Miyakawa Raffles at Galaxy MACAU

Words: Catherine Martin Photography: Courtesy of Raffles at Galaxy

IN A BITE Operator: Raffles Interior Design: Kinney Chan & Associates Founding Chef: Masaaki Miyakawa Executive Chef: Hironori Satake www.galaxymacau.com

046

T

he Japanese art of wabi-sabi – an

seasonal appetisers such as seared alfonsino

approach that values the beauty of

served with mountain wasabi and ponzu

simplicity – has found an unlikely home

vinegar, and black abalone with liver sauce –

on Macau’s bustling Cotai Strip, courtesy of a

a signature dish from Miyakawa’s restaurant

new restaurant from chef Masaaki Miyakawa.

in Sapporo. This is followed by delicacies of

Located within Raffles at Galaxy Macau, Sushi

kuruma ebi (Japanese tiger prawn), Kohada – a

Kissho by Miyakawa is an exclusive dining

staple of Edomae sushi – and chutoro (tuna),

experience that seats just ten guests, serving

which is aged for a week before being marinated

cuisine that blends Hokkaido influences with

in a home-brewed soy sauce.

the centuries-old tradition of Edomae sushi.

Interiors are also guided by wabi-sabi,

The venture marks the first international

translated here through a minimalist aesthetic

outpost for Miyakawa – one of only six sushi

and the use of natural materials. The open-

masters in Japan to be awarded three Michelin

plan design fosters a connection between chef

stars – with the artistry of his highly skilled team

and guest, with the sushi counter itself a key

taking centre stage; every chef has undergone

feature; crafted from a 300-year-old Kiso Hinoki

rigorous training, ensuring each piece of sushi

Cypress tree sourced in Nagano Prefecture, it is

is crafted with precision and care.

characterised by a signature maple leaf inlay by

In line with wabi-sabi, Miyakawa’s cuisine

master craftsman Mr Tomita. Completing the

uses the finest fresh ingredients sourced directly

look, intricate artworks reflect the precision

from Japan; each is selected for its quality

of sushi preparation, while ceramics by the

and distinctive character, then meticulously

Miyagawa family, renowned ceramicists since

prepared to allow the natural flavours and

the Edo period, are complemented by antique

textures to shine. The experience begins with

Ikebana baskets from Kyoto.

info@xlboom.com +32 3 213 50 20 @xlboom

www.xlboom.com

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Annette Le Grand Hôtel Cayré PARIS

Words: Abby Lowe Photography: © James McDonald

IN A BITE Owner: InterGlobe Operator: Miiro Interior Design: Michaelis Boyd Head Chef: Bruno Brangea www.miirohotels.com

048

A

nnette Kolb probably didn’t plan to make

with dark oak flooring. Intricately tapestried

the original Hotel Cayré in Paris her

stools hug a bar adorned with burnt orange

home when she arrived with suitcases

tiles that’s topped with cream vintage lamps

in 1944. Then again, she probably didn’t expect

emitting a warm glow; tables and chairs are

to stay for the following 17 years either. But both

the colour of walnut, and cushions in shades

things eventually came to pass, and in tribute

of ochre and dark yellow are strewn among the

to the French-German writer and pacifist’s

cosy booths.

extended tenure as a resident, a restaurant has

The open, welcoming ambience was all part of

now been named after her. It’s housed within

the plan, of course. “The use of soft furnishings

the revamped Le Grand Hôtel Cayré – the first

and sporadic placement of photographs

property from new lifestyle brand, Miiro – and

encourages a home from home atmosphere,”

it’s both a celebration of French cuisine and

Gregoriou says. “That makes it a place for our

testament to her inspiring endeavours.

guests to relax and unwind.”

When designing Annette, the team at

Diners can also enjoy Bruno Brangea’s fresh

Michaelis Boyd gathered references from the

interpretation of a brasserie menu, with the

local neighbourhood. “The restaurant pays

former Head Chef for Alain Ducasse offering

homage to and complements the traditional

contemporary twists on classic French dishes

Hausmannian style of Saint Germain,” explains

including the croque monsieur, tartare du boeuf

Christina Gregoriou, Partner at Michaelis Boyd.

and crème brûlée. Take a seat on the terrace,

“Simplicity and intricacy are visible in the

with unparalleled scenic views of Boulevard

details.” This fact is evident on first glance,

Raspail, and raise a crisp glass of French wine to

when the eyes are met by a neutral colour

Annette Kolb, whose existence made moments

palette that blends cappuccino-shaded walls

like this possible.

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La Méditerranée Robuchon Four Seasons Resort at The Pearl-Qatar DOHA Words: Hannah Currie Photography: © Natelee Cocks

F

rench refinement meets the mystique of

lighting includes a jellyfish chandelier and sea

the deep sea at La Méditerranée Robuchon,

creature-like table lamps that act as whimsical

one of the new dining concepts unveiled by

characters from an aquatic scene.”

Four Seasons Resort at The Pearl-Qatar. Helmed

The Mediterranean influence meanwhile

by Michelin-starred chef Joël Robuchon, the

can be seen in the materiality of the space,

restaurant has been designed by Avroko to

with ribbed plaster columns and archways

honour its proximity to the sea.

featuring alongside marble and terracotta.

“We aimed to create a luxurious French

“One of the standout features is the artisanal

seafood restaurant where guests are immersed

flooring, created using traditional laying

in a space of bohemian elegance and the

techniques known as Palladiana mosaic,” Reed

fantastical sea,” explains Avroko Design Director

adds, explaining that the technique involves

Alex Reed. “The design includes elements that

interlocking marble pieces to produce a seamless

mirror the gentle ebb and flow of ocean waves

finish reminiscent of ancient Italian floors.

and underwater currents, contributing to a fluid, aquatic sensorial experience.”

IN A BITE Operator: Four Seasons Architecture: Dara Architects Interior Design: Avroko Graphic Design: Joël Robuchon International Executive Chef: Eric Gonzalez Head Bartender: Sebastian Gonzales Head Sommelier: Luisa Oliveira www.lamediterraneerobuchondoha.com

050

Freshness is a hallmark not only of the interiors, but the menu too. Guests are greeted

Free-flowing forms set the tone of the space,

by an extravagant display of seafood on ice,

along with a reflective metal ceiling that mimics

complete with live lobsters that are later

the ocean’s surface; more playful touches come

prepared by Executive Chef Eric Gonzales in the

in the details. “Surprise is introduced through

open kitchen. Further French-Mediterranean

unexpected design elements,” reveals Reed.

signature dishes at La Méditerranée Robuchon

“Bespoke furniture inspired by ocean coral and

include crispy langoustines, lobster spaghetti

seashell forms is upholstered in red and teal

with Coraline sauce and a tender beef filet with

shades derived from the reefs, while custom

Malabar black pepper.

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24.09.2024 11:10:18

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Wonder Room The Singapore Edition SINGAPORE

Words: Abby Lowe

T

he barometer for luxury is changing. No

and a gold-fringed ottoman that serves as a

longer does it signify brash extravagance;

definitive accent piece.

in today’s design world, the concept

The surprises continue with Pink Room,

comes in more refined packages. But at places

a secret speakeasy seating just 20 people.

like Wonder Room at The Singapore Edition,

Decorated in soft blush tones, the exclusive

that downscaling hasn’t come at the expense

space is tailored for more intimate gatherings,

of opulence. The micro-club, tucked behind the

allowing guests to kick back and savour caviar

hotel’s signature spiral staircase, uses every

and cocktails. On the menu are signatures

inch of space to dramatic effect. “We aimed

including Clover Club – a blend of gin, blanco

to capture the essence of refined glamour,”

vermouth, lemon and egg whites – and the

says Giovanni Graziadei, Director of Beverage

smoky El Diablo, combining mezcal, ginger beer

at The Singapore Edition. “The designers drew

and lime. Classics like Paloma, Old Fashioned

inspiration from timeless elegance to create an

and Cosmopolitan are also expertly crafted.

intimate yet lively atmosphere.”

IN A BITE Owner: Granmil Holdings Operator: Marriott International Architecture: Safdie Architects, DP Architects Interior Design: Ian Schrager Company, Cap Atelier F&B Manager: Ang Kye Seng www.editionhotels.com

052

Meanwhile, the party back in Wonder

Setting the scene, the journey begins with a

Room continues apace with performances

mesmerising walk through a bronze mirrored

from resident DJs and dancers alongside

tunnel. Inside, Wonder Room is a characterised

showstopping projections and imaginative

by dark-hued walls and a charcoal-domed

lighting. “Wonder Room stands out from the

ceiling, with an extravagant gold bar stacked

crowd among Singapore nightlife, but it can

with premium spirits taking centre stage.

also be transformed to suit any occasion,”

There’s a stylish antique pool table – an Edition

Graziadei concludes. “We aim to ensure that

signature – and sumptuous red velvet stools

this captivating space infuses every event with

positioned around polished dark wood tables,

a sense of the extraordinary.”

054

MAIN COURSE

Forth ATLANTA Method Co develops a range of culinary concepts for its new venture – a luxury hotel and social club in Atlanta’s historic Old Fourth Ward.

Words: Ayesha Khan Photography: © Matthew Williams (unless otherwise stated)

A

s an entertainment and sports hub, Atlanta has quickly become an American gateway city on par with New York and Los Angeles. With a host of residential

and hospitality developments sprouting throughout its neighbourhoods, the charming southern capital’s culinary scene has also evolved significantly. Enter Forth, a boutique hotel and members’ club concept located at Old Fourth Ward, one of the city’s oldest and trendiest districts.

The property has been envisioned by Philadelphia-based Method Co, which cultivates its own impressive culinary concepts. Behind those at Forth is Food & Beverage Director, Omari Buncum. “As vast and talented as Atlanta’s dining culture is, we only started taking ourselves seriously about five years ago,” he explains. “It was mostly southern here; very local. Old Fourth Ward is a mostly residential neighbourhood and there’s a luxury scarcity here, so we wanted to fill that gap.”

Buncum’s first order of business was to scour the Atlanta culinary scene for specific talent. He found this in Executive Chef John Adamson, a New Jersey native who knows his way around seafood and steak and is well-versed in the nuance of Italian cuisine. Next came Executive Chef Jonathan McDowell, who honed his Mediterranean prowess at Atlanta hotspots Delbar and Barcelona Wine Bar; and Executive Pastry Chef Carelys Vazquez, whose previous experience at James Beard and Michelin-starred restaurant Lazy Betty equipped her to occupy the luxury niche at Forth. “We knew we needed three different minds to bring all this to life,” Buncum says

055

Forth’s culinary programme includes Il Premio (previous page) and poolside eatery Elektra (above), serving pan-Middle Eastern fare

of his culinary dream team. Filling the gap in the

“The aesthetic is influenced by the relaxed

market with unique concepts was intuitive for Buncum

sophistication of the Amalfi coast and can be seen in

who, as a native Atlantan, had seen the city’s food

the choices of rattan lighting, Thonet leather chairs

scene flourish. “We knew we needed to run a bakery

and fluted Tambour tables,” explains Method Co

programme but we also needed to be nimble enough to

Creative Director, Daniel Olsovsky. “Materials are

create high-end plated desserts,” Buncum continues.

natural and span leather, honed marble and indigo

“We also knew that we needed a more traditional

linen. There’s a collection of wool and cotton Persian

steakhouse chef that had enough depth to be able to

Malayer, Sarouk and Oushak rugs in an assortment of

navigate an Italian menu. We wanted a more purist

pale raspberry and dusty rose across the floors.” An

approach than what is prevalent in Atlanta; a northern

expansive electric blue mural of Elektra herself was

Italian offer with fresh seafood, butters, housemade

painted by Reverend Michael Alan.

pasta and the best prime cuts we could find.”

056

All-day poolside bites like harissa fries and a

The day begins at breakfast with two venues – an

refreshing tomato and feta salad are available to guests

ambitious move for the 196-room count. Viennoiserie

and club members, while outside guests can partake

is served in Bar Premio – the hotel’s espresso and

in salads and panini at Bar Premio. Forth’s culinary

aperitivo bar that has streetside presence – and a more

scene truly shines in the evening hours with two

involved menu is served poolside at Elektra, the pan-

distinct offerings, ideal for multi-night stays. After

Middle Eastern venue. Cuisine runs the gamut from

grabbing an Aperol spritz at Bar Premio, guests are

an Israeli shakshuka to Turkish eggs and a traditional

invited to Il Premio which, according to Olsovsky, is a

Lebanese breakfast hummus. A standout is the olive

visual celebration of music and Milan in the 1970s. Its

oil pancake with whipped saffron butter.

anteroom features a second bar adorned with a mural

This fresh fare is served in a space where design is

celebrating the iconic Palio di Siena bareback horse

a veritable pan-Mediterranean bazaar of influences.

race – the winner of which is presented with Il Premio,

MAIN COURSE

© Emily Dorio

© Emily Dorio

© Emily Dorio

057

MAIN COURSE

058

or the ultimate prize. Olsovsky says of the

Middle Eastern favourites like honey harissa

main dining room’s design: “The décor, colour

chicken and Baharat-doused ribeye.

palette and furniture is nuanced, stylistically

Rounding out the night and featuring stunning

influenced and pulled from early 1970s Milan

views of the Beltline is Moonlight, a venue that

– a popular time for Pink Floyd throughout the

further pays homage to 1970s with an added retro

country. The influence of incredible designers

kick. “With Moonlight, we wanted to celebrate

like Gio Ponti, Carlo Mollino and Osvaldo

the energy of an Italian discoteca, the space race

Borsani can be felt throughout the custom

and tricked out automobiles,” Olsovsky says.

banquettes, carpet, tiling and lounge seating.

“We envisioned a 1976 Cadillac Coupe de Ville

Music is a critical element in all of our projects

parked on the 16th floor overlooking the historic

and was something I really wanted to nail with

old Fourth. The space features a replica of the

Il Premio. I pulled inspiration from musicians

HK Diplomat ‘Rocketman’ sofa that Elton John

like Bryan Ferry and Giorgio Moroder, curating

had on his private jet, along with a mirror-tiled

a celebration of victory and life.”

bar that was inspired by home cocktail culture

Notable dishes here include octopus with

of the late 20th century. Illuminated glass brick

squid ink and potato, which pairs well with a

columns flank an exotic marble fireplace and a

burrata and mission figs. Pasta, all made in

Pop Art-inspired full moon painting. Signature

house, of course, includes a hearty short rib

cocktails like Moonshadow – featuring bourbon,

agnolotti and lobster rigatoni. Prime cuts, from

Jamaican rum, coffee beans and Red Eye

filet to dry-aged Kansas City strip, sit alongside

Bitters, and Flyby – with pistachio-infused

Cotoletta Milanese, a true nod to northern

gin, butterfly pea flower and rose – bring the

Italy. But what truly makes menu special is the

space to life and provide the perfect end to the

inclusion of a range of Japanese Wagyu, plus

culinary adventure.

IN A BITE Owner: Method Co, New City Properties Architecture and Interior Design: Method Co, Morris Adjmi Architects, Stokes Architecture & Design Executive Chefs: John Adamson, Jonathan McDowell, Carelys Vazquez www.forthatlanta.com

Santa Joana Locke de Santa Joana LISBON Nuno Mendes makes a triumphant return to his hometown with the unveiling of his latest project set within Edyn’s new aparthotel.

Words: Rupert Eden • Photography: © Rupert Eden (unless otherwise stated)

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ike a kid in a candy store, the Portuguese

upscale Avenida Liberdade and its chic boutiques

chef Nuno Mendes, who has worked in

and swanky terraces.

London for several decades, is feverishly

The F&B venue, conceived by London

preparing to open Santa Joana – his latest

hospitality and restaurant incubator White

and potentially most exciting project to date,

Rabbit Projects, is nestled at the epicentre of

promising to upend Lisbon’s already seismic

the buzzing 370-apartment complex, which is

food scene. “I have been a chef for almost

spread across two restored convent buildings

30 years, working across several continents,”

and a new wing overlooking a courtyard garden

the chef explains from Cozinha das Flores,

with large pool.

his restaurant in Porto. “But now I’m settled

White Rabbit doesn’t see Santa Joana as a fine

between London, Porto and Lisbon, where I

dining venue with a tasting menu but a relaxed

was born. I’ve done some nice projects in my

and fun space, more in line with the hotel’s other

life that I’m proud of but I continue with my

cluster of contemporary F&B outlets. There’s

passion and I’m excited about launching Santa

all-day dining Mediterranean restaurant, Santa

Joana in my hometown. I love Porto, but I miss

Marta overlooking the outdoor terrace; Café

being in Lisbon; this is really coming home.”

Castro’s, a relaxed lobby café and co-working

Housed in the cloisters of a 17 th century

space; Spiritland, a subterranean music-led

convent, the project forms part of Locke de

space; The Kissaten, home to Lisbon’s largest

Santa Joana, the new aparthotel from Edyn.

whisky collection; and O Pequeno, an intimate

Mendes helms the hotel’s eponymous flagship

champagne and martini bar – all curated by

restaurant, just a cobblestone’s throw from

London-based music venture, Spiritland.

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Helmed by Nuno Mendes, Santa Joana sits at the heart of Locke de Santa Joana – a former 17thcentury convent

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Design studios Lázaro Rosa-Violán and Post

denote a person from Lisbon) – Mendes did

Company collaborated to transform Santa

not always consider being a chef. “When I was

Joana’s monastic setting, taking inspiration

growing up, I didn’t think it was a possible

from its history and retelling the story with

career path,” he says. “But my first food

bold modern lighting installations and specially

memories are from Lisbon and the Alentejo, and

commissioned works by local artisans, like

it was these flavours I tried in my youth that

Sebastião Lobo and Ana Teresa Barboza, whose

inspired me to cook and to eventually choose

pieces reflect the site’s chequered heritage.

cooking as a profession.”

“Despite being located inside the hotel, Santa

Years later, this has played into the creation

Joana operates as an independent entity and

of the Santa Joana menu. “Ingredients always

has a direct street entrance via Rua de Santa

come first, and then ideas based around

Marta; this sets the tone of the experience,”

Portuguese gastronomy follow,” he explains.

Mendes explains. “We are now the custodians

“Adding to that is inspiration from my travels.

of this amazing space so we have to honour

It’s also the product of a dialogue between my

and celebrate it. The restaurant is based around

fellow chefs Maria Ramos, Mauricio Varela and

conviviality and having fun, so hopefully we

our extended team.”

will achieve that and guests will engage with

As you enter the museum-like restaurant,

the space. I would personally like our guests

an open kitchen bar focuses on raw and cold

to remember us for the fun times they’ve had

preparations such as lightly marinated fish and

fuelled by good food, good drinks, great music

seafood, including oysters from Ria Formosa,

and amazing hospitality.”

Ria de Aveiro and the Sado Estuary. “The

Despite considering himself an Alfacinha –

starting point is always the raw product,”

literally a salad eater (an endearing term to

Mendes says. “Contemporary Portuguese

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© Charlie McKay

cuisine is based on amazing local ingredients

heart tomato with Algarve sweet potato, while

from small producers. It’s inspired by the

main course highlights include turbot broth,

country’s gastronomic culture but also reflects

and Alentejo pork tusk with a walnut sauce.

the cosmopolitan nature of Lisbon today.”

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For lighter snacks, Santa Joana’s antipasti

A larger than life character, full bearded

menu includes Alentejo acorn-reared black pig

Mendes has no shortage of ideas when he is

ham, charcoal grilled clams and Portuguese

with his Executive Chef, Varela, who previously

pastéis de massa tenra, as well as handmade

ran Lisbon’s revered riverside Dahlia bar. “I

tagliolini with yellow courgetti, and pappardelle

really like the energy he has in the kitchen,”

with beef ragu. Desserts are inspired by the vision

he affirms. “I felt a great affinity with him.”

of Locke’s dedicated pastry chef, who’s also

Ramos, meanwhile, previously worked with

responsible for the local beers, Mediterranean-

Mendes at the acclaimed Bairro Alto Hotel

focused wines and classic cocktails on offer at

restaurant, Bahr. “She is someone I trust

Café Castro’s.

implicitly so I want her to feel that this project

Having had so much success in London with

is also hers.” Another partner, Nuno Dinis, also

Michelin-starred outlets Mãos and Viajante 87,

worked at Bahr, and is now the Executive Chef

Mendes ruminates on his approach to this new

responsible for the entire hotel.

project. “You are only as good as your last gig

Beyond the Santa Joana entrance, a cavernous

so I don’t take anything for granted,” he says

two-level dining room serves more elaborate

with a smile. “I approach each new challenge

dishes like Farinheira flour pimenton sausage

ready to learn and grow. Utimately, it’s all about

toasties with prawns and seaweed, or chicken

passion for food and the ability to share this

hearts with spicy Pica Pau sauce. Entrees include

with others – for me, this is always the most

smoked squid and Portuguese curry, or beef

critical thing!”

IN A BITE Owner: Edyn F&B Concept Development: White Rabbit Projects Interior Design: Lázaro RosaViolán, Post Company Culinary Director: Nuno Mendes Executive Chef: Nuno Dinis www.lockeliving.com

Zita Monteverdi TUSCANY Renowned architecture firm Foster + Partners unveils its most sustainable project to date in celebration of the richness of Italian food, wine and art.

Words: Lauren Jade Hill • Photography: © Letizia Cigliutti (unless otherwise stated)

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066

ound at the end of a meandering journey along winding,

is the slow pace at which guests can enjoy the beauty of the

country tracks and up verdant hillsides, Monteverdi

landscape and the richness of the food.”

feels entirely set apart from any other town or village in

Describing the project as the firm’s most sustainable

this pocket of rural Tuscany, which lies within the famously

yet, Anderloni and her peers endeavoured to use local

scenic UNESCO-designated area of Val d’Orcia.

and reclaimed materials in restoring and reimagining the

Created in 2012 by American lawyer and professor, Michael

interiors of several abandoned stone houses, found just

Cioffi, Monteverdi has transformed the once dilapidated and

off the village piazza. In the end, as much as 90% of the

mostly abandoned village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro into

materials used, such as timber, textiles and stone, were

a culturally enriching design-led retreat celebrating Italian

sourced from the surrounding area.

food, wine and the arts. Inspiration taken from the Tuscan

“We made extensive use of reclaimed local materials,

countryside is seen in every corner of the peaceful hideaway,

including the beautiful 300-year-old Pietra di Trani stone

from restored stone houses and former public spaces like the

seen across the floors,” says Anderloni. “We used reclaimed

village school, to a 700-year-old church.

bricks for the vaults and reclaimed solid timber planks

A decade after opening, the thoughtfully curated resort

for the tabletops. All newly-sourced materials were then

underwent an extensive expansion featuring stylish new

selected from local suppliers, such as the distinctive, green-

accommodation. The unveiling of a Roman-inspired

veined Cipollino marble, which was quarried in Carrara and

Monteverdi spa and contemporary art gallery followed,

used for the bar counter.”

and the latest enhancement to the resort is a brand new

Traditional wine cellars of the region provided inspiration

restaurant. Named after a matriarch of the village, Zita was

for the restaurant’s interiors, which combine original

designed by prominent architectural firm Foster + Partners,

structural elements, such as sweeping arches and stone

whose primary aim was to blend the sustainable, aesthetic

walls, with new additions like a modern vaulted ceiling,

and hyper-local values present elsewhere in the resort.

theatrical lighting system, sleek marble bar and state-of-

“Zita celebrates rural Tuscany and the unique area of

the-art kitchen. Several intimate dining rooms span the

Val d’Orcia, where gently cultivated hills give way to small

space, which also showcases artefacts and artworks like an

hamlets and there is a rich gastronomic tradition,” says

Etruscan vase that hints at the village’s historic roots. The

Annamaria Anderloni, a partner at the firm. “We designed a

restaurant’s furniture also fits the hyperlocal nature of the

welcoming and relaxed restaurant where the ultimate luxury

site, having all been sourced from within a 100-mile radius.

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© Nigel Young

Upon starting the project, Foster + Partners undertook a thorough survey of the surrounding area to seek out local artisans.

“We were immediately captivated by the work of the blacksmith, Giordano Giulianini,” says Anderloni. “There is an ancient tradition of iron craftsmanship in Italy, so we decided to use it in the archways and fixed furniture. For the loose furniture, we combined it with leather, another example of traditional Tuscan craftsmanship, while the timber furniture was handmade by talented local, Giancarlo Neri.”

“A key aspect of the design is the flexibility we built into the project,” she continues. “The choice of finishes and bespoke lighting design completely transforms the spaces between day and night, allowing the restaurant to fulfil its all-day-dining mission. The dining rooms – which on one side spill out across an al fresco terrace – feel fresh and inviting for breakfast © Aaron Hargreaves

and lunch, and later in the day, they evolve into a sophisticated space for dinner, wine tasting, apéritifs and private dining experiences.”

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On the culinary side, Zita is led by newly-appointed

elderflower and served with emulsified toffee and

Executive Chef Riccardo Bacciottini. Hailing from

spruce essential oil. “I’m in love with the ingredients

Tuscany, he previously worked in the kitchens of

we produce here in Tuscany,” notes Bacciottini. “Our

Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant Maze and with Renè

Amiata mountain is famous for having a beautiful

Redzepi at Noma. “Our intention is not only to honour

variety of products. We are surrounded by mushrooms

and serve traditional Tuscan dishes, but also to really

and truffles, and very particular fruits and vegetables

focus on sustainability through our ingredients and

like the Picciola pear and Scosciamonaca plum. Of the

producers,” he says. “Another fundamental pillar

producers we work with, our neighbour and Pecorino

of our philosophy is to elaborate on the story and

producer Giancarlo Pìu is one of the most notable.

background behind dishes of Etruscan origin. We

His ethos aligns with ours in his dedication to staying

want our guests to experience the culture of Tuscany

authentic to the land.”

by trying the dishes that are influenced by the many

These products come together with a touch of

and varied groups that have characterised our territory

culinary innovation in Bacciottini’s vision of modern

over the years.”

Tuscan gastronomy. “We have a team who are

As such, menu standouts include Casentino ravioli

dedicated to researching and developing creative

made with flour from Terre Casentinesi and served

new ways to cook, while also bringing the Tuscan

with seasonal mushrooms; wild boar cooked on coals

experience into each dish,” he says.

with herbs, onions, nettle cream and grilled aglione

Unparalleled design and gastronomy combine at

flowers; and wellington quail, a dish inspired by

Monteverdi, which succeeds in its mission to celebrate

Bacciottini’s childhood memories of hunting in the

Tuscany’s rich culinary culture and traditions with its

woods with his father and family dog. Meanwhile,

guests. As Bacciottini concludes: “We use the menu

delicious desserts include a creamy reduced sheep’s

as a platform to pay homage to celebrated dishes of

milk tartlet, and wild ice cream flavoured with

the region and the methods and stories behind them.”

IN A BITE Owner: Michael Cioffi Architecture: Ilaria Miani, Archiloop (Zita) Interior Design: Foster + Partners Menu Design: Cecilia Melli Executive Chef: Riccardo Bacciottini F&B Manager: Jan Kerkoff www.monteverdituscany.com

Bespoke products for front-of-house

www.rewthink.co.uk

DINING

Meals on Wheels As guests continue to seek memorable dining experiences, London’s luxury hotels embrace the theatre of the tableside trolley.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick

L

ondon restaurant Dovetale’s interiors might be described as luxuriously low-key; natural textures, wooden tones and plush booth seating combine to create an elegantly muted aesthetic.

So first-time visitors to Tom Sellers’ produceled venue might be surprised by the sight of a

delightfully incongruous ice cream-hued trolley roving the floor, adorned with jars of sprinkles and serving up joyfully retro knickerbocker glories.

“It’s opulent, it’s theatrical, it feels personal and more importantly, it’s fun,” says the two-Michelin-starred chef, who launched Dovetale at 1 Hotel Mayfair in the summer of 2023. “There’s something really comforting about nostalgic desserts, and food should bring warmth and happiness.

Already, the knickerbocker glory at Dovetale has become something of a cult dish – undoubtedly in part due to the visual impact the trolley makes in the room.”

Indeed, trolley service is firmly back in fashion, and

© John Carey

London’s chicest hotels are outdoing one another when it comes to putting the wheels in motion. While many of the capital’s grande dame establishments have been flambéing and filleting tableside for decades, several newer hotel

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© John Carey

© Lateef Photography

© Lateef Photography

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DINING

At The Stafford (previous page) and The Ritz (bottom right), a trolley service plays an important role in creating a memorable dining experience

“We are seeing a resurgence with trolley service becoming very much part of the London high-end dining scene, thanks to customers who appreciate a little bit of theatre when dining out.”

LUCA GAETA – THE GAME BIRD

restaurants are also adopting the concept, keen to inject a

carved tableside on handsome handcrafted carts. “Trolley

dash of old-school glamour into the contemporary fine-

service elevates the dining experience to the next level and

dining experience. From the bespoke tuna trolley being

is the ultimate in showmanship.”

rolled out at Raffles London at The OWO’s hot new restaurant

Chauhan agrees that capturing content-worthy moments

Kioku by Endo, to the ‘Long Lunch’ dessert trolley that Ham

is a draw for many diners. “Guests love the whole show –

Yard Hotel unveiled earlier this year, increasingly innovative

seeing the dish being prepared and served right in front of

offerings are proving that there’s no menu item that can’t

them,” he says of The Dining Room’s Beef Wellington, which

be boosted by the fun factor of four wheels.

is cooked for two and carved tableside. “And let’s be honest,

For traditional hotels such as The Goring, whose historic

in the age of social media, people can’t resist snapping a

restaurant The Dining Room offers a comprehensive trolley

picture or making a reel when something like that happens!

service spanning champagne, desserts and a signature Beef

It’s interactive and memorable.”

Wellington experience, the practice remains as important

Helpfully, the concept also adds depth to the real-life

as ever. “In The Dining Room, we’re all about creating

experience, particularly when it comes to creating a sense of

experiences that are memorable, and the trolley service plays

anticipation. “Guests love to be able to see the trolley being

a big part in that,” says Jeet Chauhan, Director of Food &

wheeled around and to eye up dessert during their meal,”

Beverage. “It brings this fun, almost theatrical vibe to each

says Pedro Paulo, Food & Beverage Manager at Ham Yard

part of the meal, making everything more interactive and

Hotel, while Chauhan adds: “It’s like the old saying ‘you eat

engaging.” Though the restaurant underwent a complete

with your eyes first’ – the trolley brings that to life.”

refurbishment earlier this year, there was never any question

John Williams MBE agrees. The Executive Chef of The Ritz

of revising the trolley service. “The silver trolley we use

London – arguably one of the most famous destinations for

for the Wellington, in particular, is iconic,” says Chauhan.

classic tableside theatre – believes that the intricate dance of

“It’s woven into the very fabric of The Dining Room, and we

trolley service is one of the reasons for its recent comeback.

wouldn’t dream of changing that.”

“It has this platform of theatre – where the fun begins,” he

Trolley service has long been a fixture of classical luxury dining rooms, but its recent reinterpretation places an

says. “Where part of the enjoyment of eating is teasing the customer before they eat.”

emphasis on creating fun, visually impactful moments and

As for the trolleys themselves, they provide a valuable

is driven, at least in part, by the power of social media. “We

opportunity to make a design statement. Dovetale’s

are seeing a resurgence with trolley service becoming very

knickerbocker glory apparatus is a feat of engineering:

much part of the London high-end dining scene, thanks

collaboratively conceptualised and designed by Sellers and

to customers who appreciate a little bit of theatre when

Seymourpowell, the agency that worked on Virgin Galactic’s

dining out, in addition to fulfilling their needs for social

commercial spacecraft Unity 22, each cart is capable of

media content,” says Luca Gaeta, Maître d’ at The Stafford’s

keeping multiple ice cream flavours cold and chilling glasses

upscale restaurant The Game Bird, where Sunday roasts are

instantly, despite not being connected to electricity and

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“The knickerbocker glory at Dovetale has become something of a cult dish – undoubtedly in part due to the visual impact the trolley makes in the room.”

TOM SELLERS – DOVETALE

being completely mobile. The Goring’s silver

techniques. “They’re so proud of what they do

Beef Wellington trolley, meanwhile, features a

and proactive when it comes to innovation and

built-in hot water system that keeps it perfectly

staying a step ahead,” he says. “Their standing

warm until carving time, while The Stafford has

has moved up a grid or two; they really love it.”

invested more than £27,000 over the years in

Chauhan points to a similar effect at The Goring,

its bespoke collection of trolleys, which are

stating: “The team really loves that moment

handcrafted in either walnut or oak sourced

when guests realise their Beef Wellington is

from managed forests, and feature satin brass

made specially for them. Our staff thrive on

detailing. “They are as functional as they are

that connection.”

beautiful,” says Gaeta.

Of course, behind every smooth trolley service

The concept is also widely popular with

is a well-oiled team; the approach requires

serving staff, who often welcome the chance

meticulous planning and specific staffing to

to showcase specific culinary skills and enjoy

work successfully. Williams points out that

deeper interaction with their guests. At The

consistent communication between staff is key,

Ritz, Williams says that tableside service is a

as is ensuring that each trolley is fully stocked

great way for staff to be able to hone additional

with the correct equipment. “It is a more laborious service,” he confirms. “For instance, the canard or pigeon à la presse takes a lot of work in front of the guests. Three waiters work on the dish; one carving, one pressing to get the juice out of the carcass, and one finishing the sauce. It can take 10 to 15 minutes.”

Timing is also crucially important, especially during a busy service, Chauhan reveals, with the team required to coordinate seamlessly with the rest of the main courses being served. And as Gaeta highlights, food waste and health and safety also need to be taken into consideration.

“We’re very conscious about waste; food cannot be refrigerated on the trolley so any items not consumed have to be discarded,” he says of The Game Bird’s service.

Despite the additional logistical requirements, the general consensus is that trolley service is more than worth the extra work it necessitates, boosting customer satisfaction and providing a fun and engaging talking point for diners.

And in a culinary landscape as competitive as London’s, every differentiator counts. As Sellers concludes: “The most desirable carts can help put restaurants on the map.”

© Milo Brown

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PETITS FOURS

TROLLEY SERVICE As luxury hotels embrace the theatre of tableside service, product manufacturers are crafting trolleys that are both stylish and practical.

Mogogo Roll’n Service Cart

Rewthink Bespoke Products for Front-of-House

The Mogogo Roll’n collection of service carts is a product range that balances aesthetics and practicality. Built to the core values of elegance, functionality and durability, what sets the Roll’n collection apart is its thoughtful details such as the hand-stitched leather handle, quiet-ride casters for smooth movement and quick-change covers available in a variety of colours to suit any décor. Additionally, with versatile add-ons and accessories, the carts can easily be transformed for specialised service, such as cheese or cocktail carts. Available with a stainless-steel handle and heavy-duty bumper option, the collection continues to deliver both functionality and flair. www.mogogo-buffet.com

With an expertise that comes from creating front-of-house products for chefs and restaurateurs for over a decade, every aspect of Rewthink’s designs are carefully considered to ensure its products are as durable and functional as they are aesthetically pleasing.

The group’s restaurant and bar trolleys bring theatre, excitement and anticipation to the guest experience; each is custom-designed and made in Rewthink’s Kent workshop using sustainable timber sourced from managed forests. The trolleys are typically 40cm wide – enabling them to be used in narrow spaces – while quality materials include Cumbrian stone, solid brass, stainless steel, copper, glass, leather, silicone and acrylic. www.rewthink.co.uk

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SIGNATURE

SIGNATURE

Sea Scallop Tartare Jean-Georges The Leinster DUBLIN

As Jean-Georges Vongerichten continues to

“The scallops in Ireland are second to none, so

make his indelible mark on the global culinary

this preparation works well to showcase them

stage, his latest venture, Jean-Georges at The

when paired with Asian flavours,” Vongerichten

Leinster, brings a fresh perspective to Dublin’s

explains. “We use the shiso and kohlrabi as a

evolving food scene. Already pushing boundaries

wrap to bring even more freshness to the dish.”

in London, Paris and Kyoto, the chef’s first foray

Local sourcing is central to the chef’s approach,

to the Emerald Isle weaves a tapestry of Irish

and this dish is no exception. The hand-dived

tradition, French finesse and Southeast Asian

scallops are sourced from Irish waters by

vibrancy. This culinary philosophy reaches its

Glenmar Seafood, while the shiso and kohlrabi

zenith in the Sea Scallop Tartare with Plum

are procured from Keelings Farm, a family-run

Sesame, Kohlrabi and Shiso. Born from the

business in Dublin. Vongerichten concludes:

creative synergy between Jean-Georges and Head

“There are no special techniques involved; its

Chef Ross Bryans, it is the continuation of a dish

simplicity of flavours and quality products that

conceived in New York and perfected on Irish soil.

make it special.”

SIGNATURE

Lemon Ricotta Ravioli Agos Kimpton Bem BUDAPEST

At Agos, a vibrant restaurant within the newly-

secret ingredient. “To add a Hungarian twist,

opened Kimpton Bem Budapest, Mediterranean-

I incorporated sweet sour cream, a common

inspired dishes are complemented by subtle

ingredient in a well-known national dessert,”

nods to Hungarian culinary tradition.

explains Frank Nógrádi, Pastry Chef at Agos.

Emblematic of this approach is the Lemon

“I experimented with the combination and was

Ricotta Ravioli, a light and refreshing dessert

pleased with the result, it was the first dessert

that combines both familiar and unexpected

I developed for the menu and it perfectly

flavours. Italian-style Cassatelle dough balls

captures the flavours and presentation I was

– deep-fried to a golden brown – are filled

aiming for.”

with lemon-flavoured ricotta and served with

The dish is topped with a delicate honey

a citrus gel and yoghurt-honey ice cream. In

tuile shaped to depict bees on a honeycomb,

honour of the locale, there’s also a surprising

and garnished with a sprig of lemon verbena.

APÉRITIFS

A Journey Through Time Whisky is undeniably enjoying a renaissance in the spirits

known for delivering exclusive events and unique experiences

realm, and Aria Resort & Casino in Las Vegas is poised to

not found elsewhere in Las Vegas,” explains Mark Gilbert,

capitalise on this trend with it latest proposition. The hotel’s

Aria’s Vice President of Food & Beverage. “The Macallan is

Lobby Bar has been transformed into a bespoke Macallan

recognised worldwide for having an incredible portfolio of

tasting lounge, providing an opportunity for guests to sample

high-end whiskies, and this experience celebrates their 200

some of the rarest and most coveted whiskies – bottles that

years of perfection as our resort provides the atmosphere,

were previously reserved for private collectors.

first-class service and hospitality that will deliver a

Undergoing a complete metamorphosis to welcome one of

showstopping sipping locale for our guests.”

Scotland’s most renowned distilleries, the venue combines

Founded in 1824 by Alexander Reid, the maker champions

moody lighting and elegant finishes, complemented by a

the philosophy that smaller stills yield superior flavour and

striking red tonal palette that stands in vivid contrast to the

character. Among the selections available is Time: Space, a

bustling casino floor. Design elements marry raw textures

rare 1940 vintage matured for over eight decades and the

such as wood, stone and verdant plants with sinuous shapes,

oldest whisky ever released by the brand. Other offerings

while futuristic origami-inspired motifs subtly reference the

during the tasting experience include the Macallan Rare Cask

unique forms of The Macallan’s specialty bottles.“Aria is

2024 and the Macallan Harmony Collection.

Message in a Bottle Bringing natural effervescence and humility to the role of Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town, Luvo Ntezo muses on the world of wonders encompassed by wine.

Words: Abby Lowe • Photography: © Rupert Peace

PROFILE Luvo Ntezo Head Sommelier, One&Only Cape Town Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town since 2011, Luvo Ntezo is responsible for the resort’s 5,000-bottle wine cellar, and is widely considered one of the foremost wine maestros in the world.

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A

sk Luvo Ntezo a question about wine

at the 2008 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs competition

and he can poetically riff on the subject

in South Africa, and that same year, he entered

without pausing for breath. The South

an international competition, placing fourth

African sommelier, born to modest surroundings

overall. The trajectory continued, and in 2011,

in a small town in the country’s Eastern Cape,

everything came together when he was named

has a natural gift for both oenology and the

Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town. Ntezo

considered art of talking about it. “There are a lot

is now considered one of the world’s foremost

of things that fascinate me about wine,” he says,

wine maestros. “I’m given a front row seat in

his eyes closed in contemplation. “It’s a bottled

celebrating and changing the dynamics of the

culture; it brings together people from different

culinary space in South Africa,” he says. “It’s a

backgrounds, countries and continents. It’s more

dream come true. And I’m not just saying that

than just wine; it’s connection.”

because I work here!”

None of this is hyperbole. In a career spanning

The role of sommelier contains a multitude of

over two decades, Ntezo has discovered first-

intricacies that are as much about understanding

hand the power of searching for the perfect drop.

natural and human history as about pairing wines

It’s what led him from a life of “just doing a job”

with certain flavours, and it’s when delving into

to pursuing one of personal purpose. “Wine made

these principles that Ntezo really shines. “I am

me realise that a career should be about what

fascinated by vintages: the stories of yesteryear

gives you joy,” he explains. “I guess smart people

and how they transcend a bottle of wine and

call it passion.”

the barriers of time,” he explains. “So I’m on a

Though he fell into the world of viticulture

constant journey here, one where I get to meet

by accident, in some ways Ntezo’s ascent seems

amazing people, and travel locally and all over

pre-ordained. His affinity for the complexities of

the world to share my passion.”

the drink were picked up by chance by winemaker

For One&Only Cape Town guests, this translates

John Loubser, who went on to become a mentor

as truly memorable dining and drinking

and teacher. He was later sent to study at the Cape

experiences guided by Ntezo’s wide-reaching

Wine Academy in Stellenbosch by the general

knowledge and warmth. In the cosmopolitan

manager of a hotel he was working at, having also

resort’s new Rooi restaurant, for instance, where

noted Ntezo’s innate talent. Proving the point, he

the onus lies in spotlighting the beauty of South

won first place in the Young Sommelier category

African ingredients and traditions, Ntezo called

SERVICE

on old friends when compiling the wine list. “I

Town cellar. “Then I move onto things like

that builds on their knowledge and in doing so,

had to think deeply – I needed a selection that

diversity of price, a range of iconic vintages and

we make sure that wines aren’t just stored in the

people cannot buy themselves,” he explains.

bottles that celebrate local winemakers, plus so

darkest corners of a cellar.”

“So I tapped into my relationships with owners

much more.”

Perhaps this is what it ultimately comes down

and asked them to release a handful of bottles

In fact, it’s a constant balancing act that

to for Ntezo – visibility: seeing things where

especially for us.” The result is a unique collection

Ntezo approaches with glee, not least because it

others don’t and in the process, making people

of vintages that cannot be bought anywhere else;

means he can offer a platform to lesser-known

feel seen – a skill that elevates traditional dining

little treasures cherry-picked by Ntezo.

winemakers – “I want every single woman

experiences to the realm of exceptional.

Meanwhile, in the Wine Studio, Ntezo hosts

winemaker or owner to be represented by our

“Wine is a unifying liquid,” Ntezo reveals.

four-course immersive dinners featuring Cape

wine list, and to continue to ask my industry

“You can find wine that’s been stored in the

classics, global standouts and plenty of anecdotes

colleagues to do the same,” he states, but also

same vault since World War I and taste it in the

from the man himself, who waxes lyrical on

because it means he can open the door to a new

knowledge that amid the destruction and carnage

prominent topics like women in the industry and

world for his guests too, whether they’re already

of war, people still made wine. Then 100 years

the growth and continued success of boutique

experts in wine or complete novices.

later, a diverse group of people came together to

farms – subjects close to his heart that also

“Wine shouldn’t be exclusive,” he continues.

drink it, and for a moment, you can tap into the

inform his selections for the resort’s impressive

“It’s a beautiful beverage that is made to be

love with which it was made. That’s special.”

5,000-bottle collection. He describes the process

enjoyed by everybody. So, at One&Only, we aim

Ntezo weaves time-and-space-spanning yarns

as a beautiful nightmare.

to demystify it; to make it accessible so that

like this with ease, and somehow it seems to help

“Have I showcased enough regions? Is there

everyone can really enjoy it.” That might mean

makes sense of the world’s wild but inexplicable

enough focus on family-owned farms? Did I

offering a guest a wine they’ve never tried before

beauty. “Some of the most unforgettable vintages

include women winemakers? These are the

or delving into their past experiences to discover

come from the most hostile conditions,” he

questions that inform my choices,” he says,

their preferences and then challenging them.

concludes. “But that fruit, that wine, it’s teaching

reflecting on his quest to represent a full spectrum

“The plan is not to give them what they know,”

us patience. It’s saying that even a difficult life is

of places, tastes and faces in the One&Only Cape

he says. “But rather, to give something different

preparing us for something extraordinary.”

085

presents

WITH AGED BRANDY AND 12 ESPRESSO AT A PRESSURE OF 9

OF HANDMADE

TELL ME MORE

THE ITALIAN BUONISSIMO COFFEE LIQUEUR

COCKTAIL

COCKTAIL

Plum Oudh Silverleaf Pan Pacific LONDON

They say that we eat first with our eyes, but at Silverleaf at Pan Pacific London, you sip with all your senses. That’s thanks to the introduction of Texture is Everything, a cocktail collection that takes guests on an olfactory journey.

Each creation brings together cutting-edge techniques and sensory artistry to create a visceral experience that is categorised into six taste profiles: Delicate, Effervescent, Rich, Smooth, Creamy and Tannic. A highlight in the Tannic section which draws inspiration from woody flavours is Plum Oudh. This variation on a Manhattan is influenced by the Pomegranate Noir fragrance from perfumer Jo Malone and features Glenfiddich 15 and vermouth. “The drink was inspired by my girlfriend’s favourite perfume,” explains mixologist and Head of Research & Development, Rueben Clark. “It is very complex with contrasting flavours like fruit, wood, smoke and spice with a structure similar to that of a Manhattan.”

The cocktail’s flavour profile offers smoky notes complemented by gentle sweetness from spiced plum cordial, garnished with a spritz of edible perfume made from oudh, amber and labdanum.

“We spritz the stem of the glass with it, so the drinker has a lingering scent on their fingers throughout and after the drinking experience,” concludes Clark. The result is a cocktail that’s as much about aroma as it is about taste.

COCKTAIL

Down Under Brooksy Bar Amora Jamison SYDNEY

Sydney’s bar scene just got a little jazzier with the arrival of Brooksy Bar at Amora Jamison Sydney. Inspired by the Roaring Twenties, this sophisticated speakeasy is all about opulence, Art Deco style and drinks that make a statement.

Brooksy’s menu, curated by mixologist Brendon Hill, takes patrons on a liquid journey through the golden age of travel with each cocktail a passport to a different destination.

The star of the show? Down Under – a drink that nods to Australia’s rich landscapes and eclectic flavours. The cocktail balances creamy Calpis syrup with eucalyptus-infused Tanqueray Nº10, while blood orange and Giffard Pamplemousse liqueur add a zesty kick, making each sip as refreshing as a dip in the waters of Bondi.

“The entire menu is inspired by the golden age of travel in the 1920s, a time when embarking on a journey was a luxury and an exploration of the world’s most enchanting destinations,” explains Michael Thom, Director of Food & Beverage. “Our Down Under Expedition cocktail captures this spirit, blending Australia’s rich flavours and diverse cultures into an elegant taste of adventure. The goal is to transport the drinker to their favourite Australian landscape, where they can take in the view, almost as if they were enjoying a scoop of gelato in the sun.”

Casablanca

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SIPPING

Tequila Takeover Evolving into a multidimensional, sophisticated spirit that’s challenging stereotypes, tequila is gaining populairty in Mexico’s hotels and beyond.

Words: Daniela Toporek

A

new era of tequila is upon us.

drink and its production process became heavily

Gone are the days when the spirit

respected,” Andaluz continues. “Celebrities

was associated with late-night

gained interest when high quality, 100% blue

partying and overconsumption.

agave became the standard in the early 2000s.”

Tequila and its agave sibling,

Andaluz adds that the resort’s tequila sales have

mezcal,

a

increased annually by at least 5-10%, cashing in

rebrand, increasing in popularity as premium

on experiences like Tequila University, a course

beverages in bars and restaurants across the

that covers everything from indigenous history

globe. As a result, Mexican hotels are tapping

and production, to the differences between

into their heritage and creating new experiences

tequila añejo – aged for at least a year in oak

to showcase the cultural significance and

barrels, and reposado – aged for between two

versatility of the nation’s iconic spirits.

months and a year. Those who pass the course

have

undergone

“Tequila’s rise to stardom began when

receive a courtesy Bachelor of Spirits degree.

Hollywood stars started launching their own

Another factor in the rise of these spirits was

brands,” says Amparo Andaluz, Bar & Restaurant

the Covid-19 pandemic. According to Steffin

Manager at Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya

Oghene, Vice President of Business Development

in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. A quick online

at Casa Salles, a boutique hotel in the Jalisco

search and stars including George Clooney,

town of Tequila, the period resulted in an influx

Dwayne The Rock Johnson, and Breaking Bad

of tourists from within the bar and hospitality

duo Aaron Paul and Bryan Cranston pop up, each

industry. “Mexico didn’t close during the

with their own brand and twist on the spirit.

pandemic, so hospitality workers came over

“Tequila was starting to be seen as a premium

here to learn,” says Oghene. “For many years,

© Walter Tot

092

SIPPING

Tequila and mezcal form part of the experience at hotels in Mexico and beyond, including (clockwise from top left) Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya in Playa del Carmen, The Standard London, St Regis Punta Mita and NoMad London

“For many years, people only associated tequila with moments of fun and consumption, taking shots at parties. Few understood that tequila is actually one of the most regulated spirits in the world; you must wait at least six years for agave to be ready and every part of the process is monitored.”

STEFFIN OGHENE – CASA SALLES

people only associated tequila with moments of

Casa Silencio is designed with mezcal and Mexico’s

fun and consumption, taking shots at parties. Few

natural landscapes in mind. The hotel’s signature

understood that tequila is actually one of the most

Red Rooster cocktail mixes Silencio’s mezcal with

regulated spirits in the world; you must wait at least

pineapple, orange and ancho chillies for a spicy,

six years for agave to be ready and every part of the

citrus-filled welcome. The property was built on an old

process is monitored.”

mezcal factory site and blends the ancestral making

Casa Salles offers two-hour tours to explain every

processes with new and sustainable energy practices.

part of that intensive process, from grinding and

“Normally, there’s a donkey pulling a big rock to grind

cooking the agave to fermentation and distillation of

the agave plants,” says Rodriguez. “Instead, we have a

the final product. A tasting follows, in which experts

huge stone machine that works with gravity and solar

teach guests how to assess different tequilas by visual

panels to grind the plants. There’s no other distillery

appearance, aroma and overall taste. “The experiences

that works like us.”

we offer are bespoke according to each type of guest,”

At Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita in Nayarit,

says Oghene. “Some people just want to relax and sip

Jalisco, tequila and mezcal tastings are becoming more

a tequila, others want to learn about the intricacies of

popular. “Our sales are increasing by around 10-15%

what they’re drinking. We’re a small company, so we

each year,” says Enrique Alejos, the resort’s cultural

can adapt to anything.”

concierge and tequila specialist. “My vision is to teach

Casa Silencio, an eco-minded distillery and luxury

about every aspect of the drink, like you would with a

retreat designed by architect Alejandro D’Acosta in

fine wine – the aromas, the flavours and the colours.

the Xaagá valley of Oaxaca, is centered around the

Wine can encompass 100 aromas; tequila can comprise

ancestral mezcal-making process. Unlike tequila,

as many as 50, each one hinting at the drink’s origin.

which can only be produced with the blue Weber

A bottle of these spirits is an open book, so I teach you

agave plant, mezcal can be made from any agave,

how to read it.”

allowing for a sweeter, smokier flavour. “Mezcal has

The hotel is using events like El Dia de los Muertos,

been booming for the past eight years,” says Maria

or Day of the Dead, to further enhance guest curiosity

Fernanda Rodriguez Velazquez, Casa Silencio’s General

about the spirit, hosting special-themed mezcal

Manager. “It’s finally becoming globally known, so

and tequila cocktail parties, demonstrations led by

it’s great to see that people are enjoying it. We now

renowned mixologists and exclusive dinners. Elias

welcome guests that are both beginners and experts,

Ramirez, Director of Restaurants & Bars at St Regis

who come to learn about mezcal on a deeper level, or

Punta Mita, believes that their popularity is proof

to enjoy a relaxing cultural experience in the valley.”

of the spirit’s increaing acclaim. “Instead of taking

093

SIPPING

“We welcome guests that are both beginners and experts, who come to learn about mezcal on a deeper level.”

MARIA FERNANDA RODRIGUEZ VELAZQUEZ – CASA SILENCIO

At Casa Silencio, a distillery and luxury retreat in Oaxaca, mezcal is made through a combination of ancestral and innovative techniques

094

shots, guests are asking questions,” he says.

flights and cocktails. “Tequila and mezcal are

“They have a drink and ask how many kinds

on the up and continuing to grow,” says Zoe

of agave we have, and the differences between

Burgess, The Standard’s Beverage Consultant.

tequila and mezcal. Once they discover these

“Especially among those who aren’t new to

new flavours, they’re hooked.”

agave spirits and are keen to explore what they

The popularity surge is spreading beyond Mexico too. Hotels across the globe are

have to offer. Our range of mezcal martinis in particular has proven very popular.”

embracing the tequila trend with more extensive

While the boost in sales is certainly a reason

spirit menus and experiences. At NoMad

to celebrate Mexican spirits, it’s their unique

London, Side Hustle offers Latin American fare

heritage that makes an imprint beyond the fad,

with an impressive selection of tequila and

which means they stand alongside the likes

mezcal, alongside an array of Mexican-inspired

of whisky, scotch and gin in esteem. “People

cocktails under Bar Director, Liana Oster. Pop in

don’t just buy the spirit,” concludes Oghene.

on a weekend and you may even stumble upon a

“They buy into the culture and its fun, colourful

lively tasting session like Agave-Go-Go, where

vibrancy. In Mexico, every state has something

drinks from agave-focused bars like Candelaria

to offer, from the food to the drink to the

in Paris, Leyenda in New York and Licorería

music. Oaxaca is different from Jalisco, which

Limantour in Mexico City are spotlighted.

is different from Baja, for instance. Ultimately,

Decimo, located within The Standard London, also blends Spanish fare with Mexican spirits,

people embrace the culture, and tequila comes as part of that.”

Timelessly elegant, simple and beautiful.

Frantzén

Designed by Orrefors

Orrefors NYC Showroom, 41 Madison Ave, 9th floor (800)-351-9842 | info@orrefors.us | www.orrefors.us

Turn Every Occasion Into Something Extraordinary You can easily order your Orrefors Crystal through Singer Equipment Co. www.singerequipment.com/tabletop

Orrefors NYC Showroom, 41 Madison Ave, 9th floor (800)-351-9842 | info@orrefors.us | www.orrefors.us

DRINKS

DRINKS

Casa Coracho Coracho Tequila Casa Coracho is a sophisticated new brand specialising in a range of premium tequilas.

With Coracho, the brand brings together unique flavours from the Jalisco valley and sea of Nayarit – the largest blue agave producing region in the world – to represent the authentic taste of the ancient ancestral territories of the Coras and the Huicholes, two cultures today united by a common language, Corachol. The brand’s full portfolio currently comprises six tequilas: Blanco, Blanco Rosa, Reposado, Añejo, Añejo Cristalino and Extra Añejo. Coracho has received high-level industry recognition, securing three golds and one silver medal in the Global Spirit Business Tequila and Mezcal Masters 2024, as well as six medals in the International Spirits Challenge 2024. www.coracho.com

Courvoisier Courvoisier XO Cognac Maison Courvoisier has emerged from the cocoon of a multi-year restoration project that reinforces its legacy of excellence and craftsmanship. Founded in 1828 by Félix Courvoisier in Jarnac, France, the renowned brand is testament to a joyful spirit rooted in the art of cognac-making. Central to this legacy is Courvoisier XO Cognac. Overseen by expert Master Blender, Thibaut Hontanx, and crafted from a blend of different crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Borderies eaux-de-vie, it offers a velvety texture and aromatic bouquet, laced with hints of candied orange, crème brûlée and iris flower.

The recent restoration, led by design agency Gilles & Boissier, transforms the historic Maison into a vibrant venue celebrating both the rich terroir and the artistry of cognac production.

The exterior is inspired by Paris’ Pavillon de Flore, while equally grand interiors are poised to host global guests, echoing its founder’s vision of conviviality and shared joy.

From a captivating Bar Lounge filled with curated artefacts to a Cognac Tasting Room adorned with beautiful artworks evocative of the surrounding vineyards, each space narrates a chapter of Courvoisier’s rich history. www.courvoisier.com

098

DRINKS

Antica Distilleria Quaglia Ninebar Italian Espresso Coffee Liqueur The latest creation from Antica Distilleria Quaglia, Ninebar is a liqueur that combines aged brandy and 12 cups of hand-brewed coffee at a pressure of nine bars. This rich and smooth liqueur celebrates the Italian spirit of sharing, the bar tradition and the rituals that distinguish the Bel Paese. Made with single origin 100% Arabica Santos coffee beans from Brazil, it is gently toasted over a low heat using only birch wood. The Santos variety coffee comes from the Cerrado Mineiro region, where it is grown on volcanic soil at an altitude of 8501,000m above sea level, delivering sweet notes of chocolate, caramel and toasted hazelnuts.

The pleasantly complex liqueur is characterised by hints of freshly roasted coffee, cocoa, vanilla and caramel. The combination of espresso coffee and aged brandy creates a distinct mix, with a velvety sip and a persistent, bitter finish.

Ninebar’s versatility means it can be enjoyed neat, in a luxury Espresso Martini or simply in addition to espresso coffee. Antica Distilleria Quaglia was established in 1890 in Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Piedmont, Italy, by Carlo Quaglia’s family who still runs the business and creates distinct spirits, liqueurs and vermouths.

The distillery believes strongly in tradition and pursues quality through craftsmanship, innovation and creativity, growing its own botanicals and always giving value to time as a primary ingredient. www.distilleriaquaglia.it

099

DRINKS

Champagne Palmer La Réserve Nature Champagne Palmer & Co unveils its first Brut Nature, La Réserve Nature. According to the brand, the founding idea is to create an intense, pure and racy wine that would extend La Réserve, the house’s timeless signature towards a more mature palate while preserving its beautiful energy and balance.

As with every Palmer & Co creation, time is at the heart of the subtle equation between the freshness and fullness of the great terroirs of the Montagne de Reims, and the art of blending.

La Réserve Nature ages six years on its lees for the wine to reveal its full range of aromas, with delicious notes of citrus fruit, brioche and toasted almonds. “Although technically it is a zero dosage wine, one would never guess it by tasting it blind – there is nothing missing,” says Xavier Berdin, Cellar Masterat Champagne Palmer. “That is because initially, the idea behind La Réserve Nature had nothing to do with creating a wine with less sugar, but rather with more time and more flavours.”

Tasting notes are described as complex, precise and pure. Beautiful mineral tension is underpinned by notes of citrus fruit, chalk and candied lemon. Delicate roasted notes are combined with a persistent and saline finish.

The champagne’s blend includes 50-55% Chardonnay, 30-35% Pinot Noir, 20-25% Meunier and 30-35 % Reserve wines. www.champagne-palmer.fr/vins/la-reserve-nature

100

To The Table MEA 7-9 October 2024 ABU DHABI

Specifiers and suppliers from across the region united in Abu Dhabi for three days of curated connection.

Words: Abby Lowe Photography: © Richard Pereira

102

It was an inspiring meeting of great minds in

“The event offered the perfect mix of

Abu Dhabi this October, as senior decision-

networking and meaningful business discussions

makers and F&B suppliers gathered for To The

that sparked new ideas,” says Andrea Frignani

Table’s MEA 2024 edition. The engaging three-

of Valor Hospitality. “We walked away with

day event hosted at the spectacular Fairmont

some great connections and insights.”

Bab Al Bahr, was seamlessly hosted by Debbie

With the temperature still pushing 38 degrees

Wilson and Justin Wall of Snap Events, a pair

come nightfall, delegates were eased into the

who continue to prove that there’s nothing

programme gently on the first evening with a

like the power of in-person connection when it

welcome reception at the hotel’s Marco Pierre

comes to getting ahead in business.

White restaurant, featuring plenty of cross-

Attended by esteemed names within the

project chat, fresh pasta prepared on demand,

industry – all specialists of the region –

plus bespoke, ice-cold cocktails served courtesy

groups including Accor, Hilton and Marriott

of the famously excellent hosts at Pernod

International once again sent top-tier talent

Ricard. Greetings exchanged and long overdue

from their F&B, culinary and procurement

catch-ups satiated, it was early to bed for most,

teams to discuss their latest projects. They

in preparation for the forthcoming schedule.

also had sights on diving into curated, one-

To The Table MEA 2024 kicked fully into gear

to-one meetings with attending suppliers, who

the following morning with the first of four

were each on hand to showcase collections

panels hosted by resident media guru, Devina

spanning everything from tableware and

Divecha, who for the event’s opening panel was

uniforms to sustainable cutlery and kitchen

joined by Olivier Harnisch, founder of Lunasole

equipment. Reinforcing the delicate symbiosis

Hospitality; Tony Chisholm, Vice President of

that underpins the success of every project,

F&B for MEA and Asia at Accor; and Johan Scott

these focused meetings – alongside plenty of

Valentine, Vice President of F&B at Rotana Hotels,

networking opportunities – reconfirmed their

to discuss the future of hospitality in the MEA.

relevance for both buyers and suppliers alike.

The region’s unique dynamism was highlighted,

EVENTS

as was the importance of meticulously crafting a

reception and al fresco feast was served at the

Commercial Officer at Starhotels Group; and

brand for a destination to attract new tourists –

grand property’s Nasma Beachfront Bar.

Ally Northfield, Managing Director at Revenue

with Saudi Arabia pinpointed for its impressive

The eye-opening dialogue continued apace

by Design in an exchange about technology

on the final day, with attendees gathering

and its role in the evolution of hospitality. Its

Carefully planned meetings between buyers

for a penultimate seminar on how best to

effects on cleaning, reservations and loyalty

and suppliers followed, then after lunch it was

reach environmental targets for a sustainable

programmes were considered, while Ducceschi

back into the seminar room for more industry

future. Led by influential figures including

pointed out that ultimately, technology can be

analysis from Sebastien Brunel, Senior Vice

Constance Maillard de la Morandais, Director

tweaked to suit specific requirements when

President of Procurement at Accor; Liviu Raulea,

of Sustainability MEAT at Accor; Philip Halanen,

harnessed correctly. “Some of us are visual;

Director International Procurement at Marriott;

Head of Sourcing & Sustainability at Wyndham

some of us are vocal – it can help us adapt how

and Noel Attard, CEO of Kempinksi Trading.

Hotels & Resorts; and Amruta Kshemkalyani,

we learn, and that can only be a good thing.”

The trio shared ideas on responsible sourcing

Director at AK Sustainability Advisory, it was

One last round of collaborative meetings

in the Middle East, with Brunel remarking: “By

agreed that the hospitality industry has a

ensued, and then it was time for the final hurrah

being aware of how much waste you make, you

responsibility to inform its customers about

out on the hotel’s seafront pool deck. Guests

produce less, so looking at the entire supply

pertinent issues like climate change, while

reflected on a productive three days while

chain is essential. Ten years ago, sustainability

also acknowledging that the global tourism

sipping drinks and admiring the daring moves

was a niche market, but today it’s across the

industry has progressed significantly in recent

of fire-eating dancers. “I couldn’t be happier

company within Accor.”

years, successfully reducing its carbon footprint

about attending this event,” one delegate was

The unique challenges of localisation also

since 2019. “The good news is that when you’re

heard saying. “It’s really helped me garner a

formed part of the wide-reaching debate, with

building from scratch you have the opportunity

better understanding of what is available in our

panellists agreeing that the issue is just as much

to build lessons in,” Halanen commented, when

sector from all corners of the globe. I’m already

about educating and managing guests’ needs as

contemplating how the industry can continue

looking forward to my next attendance.”

it is about sourcing local suppliers.

to advance.

efforts and constant evolution of ideas.

More invaluable meetings took place in the

Come afternoon, the final panel saw Robert

afternoon, before delegates were whisked away

Tabbal, Vice President of Global Guest Technology

Budapest from 1-3 April 2025.

to Rotana Saadiyat Resort, where a cocktail

& Innovation at Accor; Antonio Ducceschi, Chief

www.tothetablemea.com • www.tothetableeurope.com

The next To The Table event will take place in

103

104

SPOTLIGHT

Endless Solutions Portuguese ceramics brand Costa Verde reaches a milestone in sustainable porcelain production by embracing innovative waste management techniques.

n a sector known for its high consumption

I

This is not just a solo endeavour, but one that

is a completely different and even disruptive

of natural resources and energy, Portuguese

Costa Verde sees as pertinent to the entire sector.

range that varies from the rest of our portfolio.”

ceramics company Costa Verde is setting

“Sustainability is extremely important in the

Since its inception in 1992, Costa Verde

a new standard with its innovative Endless

hotel industry, given the impact that each unit

has evolved into one of the world’s most

project. The initiative aims to revolutionise

can have on the surrounding environment, so we

advanced porcelain factories. Its commitment

porcelain production by embracing sustainable

want to share environmental responsibility and

to innovation and sustainability has positioned

practices that reduce environmental impact

minimise this footprint,” explains Marketing

it as a frontrunner in the industry, serving

while maintaining product quality.

Director, Paulo Pinto Santos. “The key to saving

markets across 50 countries worldwide. This

The Endless product line is the culmination

resources is to use them efficiently, and in turn

extends beyond its production processes, having

of years of dedicated research and development.

this attracts customers who are increasingly

been recognised with the National Sustainability

At its core lies a commitment to redefining

involved and aware of environmental concerns,

Award in 2024, acknowledging its leadership

how industrial waste is managed within the

and the image that a particular hotel or

and dedication to environmental stewardship.

manufacturing process. Rather than disposing

restaurant conveys.”

Aligned with the United Nations’ 17 Sustainable

of production remnants, Costa Verde adopts a

Moreover, the incorporation of industrial

Development Goals, Costa Verde actively

circular economy model, reintegrating leftover

waste into porcelain doesn’t just benefit the

supports initiatives that promote sustainability

materials back into the production cycle to create

environment; it also results in distinctive,

across various fronts. From environmental

new porcelain pieces. By doing so, the company

high-quality products. Collaborating with

conservation to social responsibility, the

minimises waste, and by using a unique firing

ClementinAtelier, a ceramics studio based in

company spotlights initiatives that contribute

technique, reduces energy consumption and

Lisbon, Costa Verde has developed a range

to a more equitable global community by

carbon emissions by a significant 35%.

of decorative items crafted from this waste.

prioritising planet, people, prosperity, peace

The creation of porcelain conventionally relies

Each piece is unique, marked by variations in

and partnerships.

on raw materials like kaolin, feldspars and sands

shape and colour that highlight its artisanal

extracted from natural reserves, while excess

craftsmanship and sustainable origin.

With the Endless Collection, Costa Verde goes a step further in demonstrating that sustainable

water typically ends up in industrial treatment

“In line with these principles, Costa Verde

practices can harmoniously co-exist with

plants. In contrast, Costa Verde’s approach

decided to go ahead with the development of

quality and design, paving the way for a future

with Endless ensures that these materials are

a line of decorative items for hotels that fulfils

where environmental responsibility goes hand-

reused, promoting efficiency and sustainability

our environmental responsibility and respects

in-hand with ceramic production.

throughout the manufacturing process.

the environment,” Santos reveals. “We feel it

www.costa-verde.com

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Ariane Fine Porcelain Privilege Since its inception in 2014, Ariane Fine Porcelain has become a key player in the tableware industry. The European brand creates collections tailored for industry professionals, by industry professionals, merging artistry and practicality. The crockery is handcrafted by artisans at a state-of-the-art facility in India, using quality materials and time-honoured techniques to create pieces that will last for years to come. Today, the Privilege collection has been designed to live up to its namesake with a sleek design and focus on simplicity, allowing chefs to express their creativity in presentation. The 15-piece line includes plates, coupe bowls and more. www.arianefineporcelain.com

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4.

1. Orrefors More – Nick & Nora

2. Modbar Modbar Espresso AV

3. Franke Coffee Systems Mytico Vario Precision Foam

4. Costa Nova Madeira Collection

This old-school martini glass is the latest launch from Orrefors as part of its More collection, a series inspired by the specific needs of restaurateurs. The design by Erika Lagerbielke holds 5.7oz and is crafted to complement cocktails including Martini, Cosmopolitan and Manhattan. The piece pays homage to the stylish fictional detective, Nick Charles, and his wealthy wife, Nora, charactersied by American writer Dashiell Hammett in his famous novel The Thin Man. As the story goes, famous bartender Dale DeGroff was searching for a small cocktail glass and found this elegant style displayed, picked it up and began to call it Nick & Nora. www.orrefors.us

The result of years of collaborative research and development between Modbar and La Marzocco, the Espresso AV by Modbar is an espresso machine that blends sleek design with high performance. The under-counter solution serves to elevate the aesthetics of a workspace, creating a barrier-free interaction between guests and baristas.

This technology gives professionals complete control and the ability to choose between multiple brewing modes, pulses, mass, or brew ratio to fine-tune the espresso volume. There is the option to set up one or two taps per module and the system features an easy-to-use lever with four programmable positions. www.modbar.com

Franke Coffee Systems’ Precision Foam technology offers an innovative new approach to milk frothing. Designed for Mytico Vario, the system allows baristas to focus on engaging with customers while dispensing foam at the preferred consistency, temperature and volume, operating in tandem with the brewing process. This not only enhances the efficiency of service but maintains the theatrics that coffee drinkers have come to expect. In addition to foam directly from the Precision Foam spout, milk can be frothed traditionally using the automatic steam wand, allowing latte art to be created according to the preferences of hospitality teams. mytico.franke.coffee

Drawing inspiration from the natural world, Costa Nova’s Madeira collection features three vivid colours and a distinct crackled surface, echoing the effect of dappled light. Each piece is crafted with quality in mind and showcases unique handcrafted designs with a speckled reactive glaze. The line’s contemporary aesthetic is designed to suit modern dining spaces, offering a casual yet sophisticated atmosphere to hotels and restaurants looking to create memorable dining experiences. Madeira Collection’s ability to integrate with various décor styles while maintaining distinctiveness makes it a versatile addition to table settings. www.costanovaprofessional.com

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3.

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1.

1. Vista Alegre Chef’s Collection

2. Corby Hall Onda Porcelain Dinnerware

3. MyGlassStudio Super Slim Small Plates

4. Bonna Albus

In designing its new line of plates for fine dining, Vista Alegre turned to those with the most discerning knowledge of this refined world: internationally renowned chefs. The outcome is a collection of distinct pieces that reflect the synergy between Vista Alegre’s hallmark design and the creativity and functionality required by world-class culinary masters.

The project has already established a footprint in several countries, underscoring the company’s commitment to expanding its presence within the hospitality sector and solidifying its standing as a benchmark in innovation, elegance and quality, fostering a close relationship with hospitality experts. www.vistaalegre.com

Corby Hall, a family-owned business based in Randolph, New Jersey, has supplied the international hospitality industry with high-quality flatware, holloware and bright white porcelain dinnerware for the past 40 years.

With designs ranging from traditional to contemporary, Corby Hall supplies F&B outlets that offer a full-service operation.

A global distribution network coupled with production facilities in Europe and Asia allows for seamless service for both restaurant opening orders and re-supply.

Onda, made for fine-dining and high volume with a white porcelain body and subtle organic design, is the latest dinnerware collection. www.corbyhall.com

MyGlassStudio’s latest collection is a sophisticated set of thin plates designed for those who appreciate the finer details. Each plate, crafted from ultra-thin 3mm durable glass, displays a sense of luxury and precision, and is designed for presenting gourmet dishes like sushi, desserts, amuse-bouches and petits fours. Available in finishes such as Milky White, Pure Gold and Licorice Black, these plates are not only functional but also serve as a statement piece to elevate table settings. A sleek, minimalist design enhances the presentation of culinary creations, while the interplay of light and texture adds a visually striking element to the dining experience. www.myglassstudio.com

Turkish porcelain brand, Bonna, unveils the Albus Collection, a harmonious blend of elegance and simplicity. This refined collection brings a timeless aesthetic to professional dining settings.

Characterised by its flat and oval forms, the Albus line is thoughtfully crafted for culinary leaders who seek to elevate their presentations. The pristine white porcelain serves as a blank canvas, enhancing the visual appeal of dishes.

While offering hotel and restaurant chefs a large, open space where they can showcase creativity, each piece also ensures durability with a lifetime edgechipping guarantee, scratch resistance and a stackable design. www.bonna.com.tr

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Greener by the Plate Ariane Fine Porcelain balances aesthetics, functionality and environmentally responsible design.

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Sustainability is no longer an optional pursuit in hospitality – it’s reshaping the way hotels and restaurants operate, from kitchen to table. F&B professionals are now expected to align their decision-making with eco-conscious principles, seeking solutions that not only reduce environmental impact but enhance the guest experience. In response, Ariane Fine Porcelain has embraced sustainability in its approach to crafting tableware that expertly balances aesthetics, functionality and environmentally responsible design.

Since the European brand’s inception in 2014, ecological practices have been integral to its vision. Today, its state-of-the-art factory in India, powered in part by solar energy, stands as testament to this eco-centric philosophy. The journey begins with responsible sourcing – 50% of raw materials are locally procured, a figure set to rise to 70% by 2030 – and a move that reduces transportation emissions while also reinforcing support for local economies. The commitment to sustainability continues with rigorously tested, lead-free and cadmium-free tableware, and 99% recyclable packaging.

Elsewhere, and the core of Ariane’s approach is a timeless and durable design ethos. By creating pieces built to last, the company

reduces the need for frequent replacements, helping professionals minimise waste while maintaining aesthetic excellence. Yet, sustainability extends beyond just the brand’s product lines. Strict waste management processes see 100% of green, non-fired materials and bisque reused. And in an upcoming phase, the brand plans to also repurpose glaze-fired waste, setting new benchmarks for waste reduction in the sector.

The commitment to a greener future isn’t limited to internal practices either. Through consumer education initiatives, such as the Slow Fast collection, the company encourages restaurants to replace disposable packaging with elegant, reusable porcelain, reinforcing sustainable dining practices. Meanwhile, community engagement, including the donation of solar panels and water conservation tools, illustrates a deep investment in social responsibility.

Looking ahead, Ariane’s investment in cuttingedge R&D reflects a longer-term vision.

Ongoing development of energy-efficient infrared kilns, which consume less energy and produce minimal heat waste, showcases the brand’s forward-thinking approach to reducing its overall carbon footprint. www.arianefineporcelain.com

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Arthur Price Stainless Steel Holloware Established in 1902, Arthur Price is a British, family-owned cutlery and serviceware manufacturer that has served the hospitality industry for over a century, with clients including royal families, cruise ships, hotels and restaurants. The company has recently launched its new stainless-steel holloware range, comprising teaware, serviceware and barware. A decade in the making, the range can also be silver plated allowing the company to now have three price points and qualities of holloware product: stainless steel, silver-plated stainless steel and UK-manufactured silver plated. Since launching earlier this year, Arthur Price has received positive feedback and order volumes from its global customer base. With international supply capabilities, the manufacturer doesn’t require a minimum order, maintains high stock levels and offers super-fast turnaround. www.arthurprice-hotelservices.com

Goodfellow & Goodfellow Bamboo Amuse Bouche The Bamboo Amuse Bouche is a novel approach to food presentation from Goodfellow & Goodfellow. The stoneware, created as a lid and base combination and finished in an eyecatching vert bronze glaze, is designed to surprise and delight the recipient. It is available in a range of colours and glazes.

At its core, the UK-based company offers a spectrum of food presentation solutions that range from a single oyster dish to the grandeur of high-end hotel cuisine.

Through tabletop innovations, Goodfellow & Goodfellow engages extensively with global hospitality partners, tailoring bespoke options and branding solutions – from creating cutting-edge tableware pieces to transforming dining concept ideas into reality.

With a growing focus on international projects, the business leverages video conferencing for collaborative consultations, adeptly managing both individual and group hospitality ventures.

A London showroom in Little Portland Street is not only a place of tableware inspiration but also a project workshop for hospitality teams to consult and compose concepts surrounded by a plethora of products. www.goodf.co.uk

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2.

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3.

1. Pioli Prisma

2. Fine Dining & Living Chic – Perla

3. Julius Meinl Cascara Tea

Pioli porcelain tableware, produced in Turkey, is designed to display quality and refined foods and provide an elegant tabletop solution for various hotel dining service areas. The brand introduces the Prisma collection, inspired by kaleidoscopic shapes with a seamless fusion of porcelain patterns and the richness of mosaic art in mind. Prisma blends the heritage of yesteryear with the sleekness of modernity, imparting distinctive charm. Every Prisma piece tells a story, transforming tables into a canvas of artistic expression. The collection includes items suited to a range of occasions including pasta and salad plates, tea and coffee cups. www.pioli.co

Belgian tableware brand Chic enriches its existing Perla collection with shades of burgundy and grey, in addition to classic, elegant white plates.

The extended line in various colours offers reams of possibilities for creating a unique table setting by mixing shades and blending minimalist design with contemporary influences. Each piece is crafted using an innovative SiloxiHT formula which combines thinness, light transparency and durability. Chic embodies added value in hospitality driven by a passion for uniquely designed and elegant tableware with a subtle, timeless sophistication, while also embracing contemporary gastronomy. www.finediningandliving.eu

As the global demand for coffee continues to rise, so too does the interest in exploring innovative ways to enjoy it. Coffee-based drinks have evolved far beyond the traditional cup, with new trends emerging that cater to both adventurous palates and environmentally conscious consumers. For horeca partners seeking to provide guests with a truly sustainable coffee experience, Julius Meinl’s organic cascara tea products offer a solution. The name cascara comes from the Spanish word cáscara, meaning husk, which refers to the dried outer layer of the coffee cherry. In the past, cascara was often considered waste and discarded or composted, but its recent rise in popularity has opened new doors for both consumers and coffee farmers. By utilising this byproduct of coffee production, cascara offers an additional income stream for producers, making it a win-win for both the environment and the communities that grow coffee. What was once overlooked has now become a sought-after ingredient, and when brewed, cascara transforms into a sweet, fruity tisane with a unique flavour profile, offering the gentle caffeine kick of black tea with a refreshing twist. Known to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as being low in sugar, Julius Meinl’s premium cascara products are organic and fairtrade certified, with cascara sourced from Peru. It can be enjoyed as a hot or cold beverage. www.juliusmeinl.com/for-business

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Winter Wonders Francéclat takes a deep-dive into the most noteworthy tableware trends for the cooler days ahead.

Winter’s arrival brings more than just a chill, it welcomes an evolution in the world of tableware, as French innovators Francéclat has unveiled with this season’s new styles.

Showcasing the artistry poised to take centre stage during the colder months, the collective has set the scene for enchanting moments, special meals and memories with loved ones.

From luxe materials to delicate designs, this is a curated look at what’s set to define l’art de la table as the year draws to a close.

Noble Emerald A new take on festive elegance emerges as deep emerald tones meet opulent gold, creating a mood reminiscent of turn-of-thecentury grandeur. Lavish textiles, richly coloured glass and organic shapes are at the forefront, where nature’s influence is unmistakable. Think fine china adorned with intricate peacock

feathers in a mix of greens and deep blues from JL Coquet; nature-inspired ceramics from Bernardaud, and sumptuous cutlery from Jean Dubost all encapsulating this trend.

Crystal Clear Crystalline structures take centre stage in winter 2024, with glass and metal intertwining to create a sparkling, silvery palette. Tables are transformed by intricate cut-glass patterns, reflective surfaces and geometric motifs etched into china. Multi-dimensional designs add depth, as Dior demonstrates with delicate, detailed plates, while glassware from Arc and Degrenne shimmers in the spotlight. www.franceclat-international.com

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La Marzocco New hospitality space in Shoreditch

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Founded in 1927 by Giuseppe and Bruno Bambi, La Marzocco had its beginnings in Florence, Italy, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and home to such geniuses as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Brunelleschi. In 1939, it was La Marzocco that developed and patented the first coffee machine with a horizontal boiler, now an industry standard. Since the beginning, La Marzocco has been a pioneer in espresso machine craftsmanship, establishing itself as a brand synonymous with reliability, quality and continuous innovation in the coffee industry.

The company later broadened its reach with Modbar, a cutting-edge addition to the luxury coffee equipment brand, which creates sleek, under-counter machines that foster closer interaction between baristas and guests. With modular, flexible designs, Modbar enhances a venue’s aesthetic and functional flow, allowing for an efficient and tailored coffee experience that complements various hospitality settings.

La Marzocco’s commitment to nurturing the coffee community was marked by the

establishment of its UK branch in 2012, which sought to create a space where those passionate about the craft could connect. The initiative was further strengthened with the opening of a showroom in Leeds, serving as a regional hub for the northern coffee scene.

Now, the company embarks on a new chapter with the unveiling of a hospitality centre at New North Place in Shoreditch, London, just steps away from its previous home. This new venue is envisioned as more than just a showroom and will serve as a meeting point for the coffee community, offering a welcoming environment for enthusiasts to come together, exchange ideas and celebrate coffee culture. Over the coming months, the space will host a series of events, including cuppings and a screening of documentary film The Rise of Espresso. For those outside of London, the company will host roadshows across the country and holds events at its Leeds showroom, bringing together home baristas, coffee lovers and hospitality professionals in one space. www.lamarzocco.com

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Mogogo Cantine Display Cart International design brand Mogogo unveils the Cantine Display Cart, a modern take on the classic market wagon. A fresh reinterpretation of the timeless cart, which has been used for transportation for centuries, this new product has been crafted for style and functionality and is made for both movement and showcasing goods to end users. While based on a traditional concept, Mogogo has updated the design and revives the product with modern materials and aesthetics to suit contemporary needs. Additionally, in line with Mogogo’s sustainability principles, the Cantine Display Cart features a lightweight yet durable bamboo structure complemented by decorative metal accents for a sleek finish. Designed to suit a variety of hospitality settings, the cart serves to enhance culinary presentations and helps create a unique atmosphere for a variety of occasions. www.mogogo-buffet.com

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John Jenkins Havana British glassware manufacturer John Jenkins presents Havana, a collection of handmade cocktail glasses comprising four distinct shapes: a straight-sided glass for either a cocktail or water; a balloon shape for cocktails; a flared version for Martinis, and finally, a traditional shape for cocktails or sake. John Jenkins is known for its diverse and extensive range of both handmade and machine-made glassware that runs the gamut from wine and cocktail glasses to classic tumblers, all of which are available for immediate delivery. The company also has an in-house design department that can create bespoke pieces and exclusive patters to suit specific requirements. Each pattern in the portfolio benefits from the latest advancements in glass-making technology, which are implemented to enhance the product’s clarity, durability and scratch-resistance. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

Nude Glass Islands Collection Established in 2014, Istanbul-based design brand Nude creates contemporary glassware made for modern living. Each collection is crafted with simplicity in mind, made up of crystalline glassware for the retail and service industries. Now, Nude Glass presents the Islands collection, a refined range of whisky and beer glasses that merge aesthetic appeal with practical design. Expertly handcrafted from lead-free crystal, each glass in the collection embodies a minimalist elegance with a subtly flared rim that guides the liquid toward the tip of the tongue and enriches the tasting experience by drawing out complex flavours.

The tulip-shaped design, characterised by its broad base and narrow mouth, further enhances the olfactory experience. This thoughtful construction helps concentrate aromas while reducing the dissipation of fumes. The collection offers three variations of whisky glasses: tall, medium and short, each catering to different preferences. Complementing this range, the collection also introduces a new beer glass that carries the same stylishly distinctive silhouette. www.nudeglass.com

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XLBoom Rondo

Pordamsa Gastro Bowls

Founded by Geert-Jan Van Cauwelaert and Ann De Cock in 1997, Belgian brand XLBoom delivers elegant pieces designed to elevate both indoor and outdoor settings. The Antwerp-based company maintains its commitment to craftsmanship through a process that ensures each item is handmade from start to finish, with all pieces brought to life in one of its international atelier spaces. XLBoom’s mission is to produce objects that in addition to fulfilling a functional need, also evoke intense emotions. This corporate philosophy is encapsulated by the Rondo collection.

Envisioned by the design studio Sascha Sartory, the range spans multiple different pieces including a stainless-steel wine chiller designed to keep drinks at the perfect temperature. The collection also comprises a statement tray that can be used to display wine and ice buckets with the option to stack two different sizes, and a generously proportioned ice bucket that comes in three different colours and two sizes. A pair of tongs completes the series which is available in three different finishes: copper, black, and pure stainless steel. XLBoom’s extensive collections are available to view by appointment at its European showroom near Antwerp. www.xlboom.com

Pordamsa’s designs have earned a place alongside the culinary creations of some of the world’s most renowned chefs, offering not only a visually striking aesthetic but also practical, creative solutions for even the most demanding hotel design projects. Since its founding in 1975, in La Bisbal d’Empordà, Girona, this family-run business has been driven by a passion for craftsmanship, blending inspiration, creativity and technique.

Among its creations is the Gastro Bowls collection, which features two sizes of meticulously hand-carved bowls, each a unique expression of nature’s beauty. These bowls are crafted from whole pieces of wood and shaped by hand, one-by-one. In a world where uniformity often dominates, these pieces stand apart as singular works of art, created with a respect for nature in its purest form. The wood’s natural patterns and textures are preserved and highlighted, turning each bowl into an unrepeatable masterpiece.

Every curve and line is testament to the tree’s origin, fusing art and nature into an everyday object that elevates the dining experience.

These bowls embody a perfect balance of craftsmanship and natural beauty, elevating them beyond just practical tableware. www.pordamsa.com

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Rona2Serve Linea Umana Maurizio Filippi, named Best Italian Sommelier by AIS in 2016, has poured his extensive expertise as both a sommelier and restaurateur into crafting a collection that balances elegance with practicality. Every curve and detail of these glasses has been carefully considered resulting in soft lines that enhance the wine-drinking experience. At the same time, Filippi has kept the needs of professional buyers in mind, ensuring the products are as functional as they are beautiful. The Linea Umana collection is intentionally streamlined, featuring only six wine glasses and two water glasses. Carefully chosen designs can accommodate the wide array of wines produced globally. Although machine-made for consistency and durability, these glasses retain the look and feel of handcrafted items and provide the best of both worlds: the reliability of modern manufacturing paired with the artistry of traditional craftsmanship. www.rona.glass

Steelite International Distinction and Performance Steelite International has been a major player in the field of tabletop, buffet and lighting solutions since its establishment in 1982. Dedicated to pushing the boundaries of technology while prioritising sustainability, Steelite caters to over 140 countries with a commitment to delivering industry-leading quality, serviceability, and innovation in the face of evolving customer tastes. Steelite’s philosophy of ‘made for life’ is woven into every piece in its Performance and Distinction collections. These product lines embody the company’s commitment to creating long-lasting, functional products that reflect contemporary design trends. The Distinction collection, which includes the Willow series, ensures elegance and style with body strength for lasting durability.

Meanwhile, the Performance collection, featuring the popular Craft series, comprises smart, functional and affordable pieces in a variety of designs. Steelite’s production facilities in England underscore the company’s dedication to quality craftsmanship.

Whether in a fine-dining setting or a casual restaurant, Steelite’s products are designed to stand the test of time and are backed by a lifetime edge chip warranty. www.steelite.com

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What kind of atmosphere do you aim to create as guests arrive?

At London Marriott Hotel County Hall, we aim to convey warmth, elegance and attentiveness the moment guests step through the doors. We want them to feel welcomed, valued and at ease, with a sense of anticipation for their stay. The space is designed to exude refined luxury while remaining approachable, inviting guests to relax and enjoy their surroundings. Every detail, from the décor to the service, is crafted to leave a lasting impression, fostering a connection to the hotel that resonates in the positive reviews guests share after their visit.

Guests often read reviews before making a booking – is there a direct link between the guest experience you offer and the reviews you receive?

Absolutely. In hospitality, every touchpoint – from the moment guests enter the property to their departure – shapes the perception of their stay. If we deliver a seamless, thoughtful, and memorable experience, it naturally leads to positive reviews. Guests are quick to share when they feel genuinely valued, and this feedback plays a critical role in influencing future bookings.

Reviews serve as a powerful indicator of our success and offer insights into areas for continuous improvement, ensuring we consistently exceed expectations and maintain a high standard of service.

Govert Deketh General Manager London Marriott Hotel County Hall A London General Manager ruminates on the finer details that enhance guest experience and lead to favourable reviews, with Nespresso Professional topping the list of essentials.

What role does coffee play in contributing to positive reviews?

It plays a significant role in enhancing the overall guest experience, as it’s often intertwined with moments of relaxation, focus and connection. Whether it’s the first cup in the morning, a midday pick-me-up or a leisurely coffee in the lounge, offering high-quality coffee adds a sense of care and comfort to a stay. When guests enjoy thoughtful touches like excellent coffee, it elevates their perception of the hotel’s attention to detail. These moments contribute to favourable reviews, where guests frequently mention small but memorable aspects that made their experience feel special.

Why have you partnered with Nespresso Professional in the creation of those moments in your venues?

To ensure that the coffee experience across all areas of our hotel consistently meet the highest standards of quality and convenience.

Nespresso’s commitment to delivering rich, flavourful coffee effortlessly aligns perfectly with our goal of providing seamless guest experiences.

With Nespresso Professional, we can offer the same premium coffee in every corner of the property, from guest rooms to meeting spaces, creating memorable moments without compromising on quality. This consistency adds a sense of refinement and care that our guests appreciate, enhancing their overall experience, which translates into positive reviews highlighting these thoughtful details.

Does that make coffee an invaluable investment in guest experience?

Yes, because it enhances moments, creating a sense of luxury and care that resonates with our guests. Offering high-quality coffee is a simple yet impactful gesture that reflects our commitment to excellence. By investing in premium coffee, we create memorable experiences, which lead to positive reviews. This attention to the finer details helps to build loyalty, while positioning our hotel as a destination that prioritises guest satisfaction. www.nespresso.com

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sirhafood.com

EUREXPO LYON FRANCE

sirha-lyon.com

23-27 JANUARY 2025

SIRHA LYON, THE WORLD LEADER EVENT IN FOOD SERVICE AND HOSPITALITY, IS THE MEETING POINT FOR ALL THE PROFESSIONALS.

SIRHA LYON BRINGS TOGETHER FOR 5 DAYS INNOVATIONS, VISIONS, EXCHANGES OF KNOWLEDGE AND WORLD MAJOR COMPETITIONS ALLOWING EVERYONE TO INTEGRATE NEW CONFIGURATIONS OF AN ECOSYSTEM IN CONSTANT RENEWAL.

Trade exhibition for professionnals only :

YOUR FREE ADMISSION TICKET ON SIRHA-LYON.COM WITH THE FOLLOWING CODE: PPSMZ

RCS LYON 380 552 976 – Document non contractuel - Crédit visuel : Arsène Conseil

WELCOME TO OUR TABLE

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 39

Antica Distilleria Quaglia

086

Mogogo

Ariane

043

MyGlassStudio

025

Arthur Price

124

Nespresso

049

BHS

123

Nude

095

012-013

Bonna

014-015

Orrefors

096

Campari

008-009

Pernod

018-019

Champagne Palmer

082

Pernod SIP

106

Corby Hall

002

Pordamsa

053

Costa Nova

065

Porland

020-021

Costa Verde

059

Rewthink

071

010-011

Rona

078

Fine Dining & Living

022

Sirha

120

Franke

051

Steelite

Goodfellows

037

To The Table Asia

081

John Jenkins

089

To The Table Europe

101

Julius Meinl

016-017

Vista Alegre

005

La Marzocco

026

XL Boom

047

Coracho Tequila

006-007

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WASHING-UP

Tee-Time

Mandalay Bay transports guests to a Las Vegasstyle English country golf club, where pitch-and-putt meets dynamic dining for an immersive experience.

Experiential leisure is hitting a hole-in-one as a

house façade with portico terrace, putting greens

sector, and now it’s making its way into hotels

surrounded by landscaped gardens and LED hot-

too. In an innovative partnership, the acclaimed

air balloons that seemingly float up above. The

crazy golf brand Swingers is teaming up with

restaurants and bars meanwhile are adorned with

Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino to introduce

woodland wallcoverings and whimsical beehive-

its first ever hotel-based venture. Building

style lighting, reinforcing the outdoors nature of

on outposts in New York and Washington DC,

the game.

the soon-to-open Swingers Las Vegas offers a

Conceptualised by Zachary Pulman Design

multi-sensory extravaganza that combines 36

Studio, renowned for its expertise in competitive

holes of entertaining match play with dynamic

socialising environments, the design captures

dining, inventive cocktails and live DJs.

the decadent spirit of the Roaring Twenties.

Occupying a sprawling 40,000ft 2 space,

“This project isn’t just about crazy golf; it’s

the venue is set to elevate the hotel’s leisure

about crafting an immersive environment that

facilities, boasting a multi-level experience

transports guests to another era,” explains

where guests can tee-off among an English

founder Zachary Pulman. “Drawing from the

country golf club-inspired setting, reimagined

allure of the 1920s, Swingers Las Vegas is set to

through a bigger-is-better Vegas lens. Notable

be a fully engaging and theatrical experience for

design features include a traditional country

guests. We can’t wait to see it in action!”

© Shift Media

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