Supper 14

ISSUE 14

Peter Street Kitchen

Radisson Blu Edwardian brings contemporary Japanese-Mexican fusion cuisine to Manchester

Joerg Meyer

The man behind the Gin Basil Smash lifts the lid on developing new bar concepts for 25hours Hotels

Mollie’s Motel & Diner

Soho House reinvents roadside dining with an all-American motel and diner in Oxfordshire

Beautiful Function

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INSIDE SUPPER

Setting

SPECIALS

Entrée

011

People Power

SIPPING

Starters • Annex

Demystifying Vintage Champagne

078

040

Unlocking Sydney’s Potential

086

Caffeine Fix

092

042

Cocktails

098

Drinks

106

The Abu Dhabi Edition, UAE • Buddha-Bar Beach Appetisers 016

Sugar Beach, Mauritius

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

• Benno

global hotel F&B

The Evelyn Hotel, New York • Seen Lisboa

044 046

Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, Lisbon

EVENTS

Main Courses

SERVICE

• Bougainville

048 Table

114

052

AHEAD Global

116

Ambiente

118

056

GRIF

120

Steelite UK Rising Star Competition

122

Hotel TwentySeven, Amsterdam • Matilda 159 Domain All Fired Up

024

United Places, Melbourne

A passionate advocate of open-fire cooking,

• Peter Street Kitchen

Argentine chef Francis Mallmann reflects on

Radisson Blu Edwardian, Manchester

how his signature style is winning countless

• Brasserie Lutetia

admirers around the world.

Hotel Lutetia, Paris • Mollie’s Motel & Diner

Smashing It

032

060 066

Buckland, UK

SIDES

Joerg Meyer, the snappily dressed creator of the Gin Basil Smash, lifts the lid on developing tailor-made bar concepts for 25hours Hotels.

Dressed to the Nines

SWEETS

Petits Fours The Washing Up

Signatures

126 131 146

072

Cover: Chilli and lemon roasted baby chicken served on a bincho grill at Peter Street Kitchen

003

The soul of stylish vintage combined with old-world charm.

Please come see us at Hotelex, Shanghai: 1~4th, April; booth#: W4C01 at Hofex: 7~10th, May; booth#: 1C-400

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584 SUPPER_GOSSET GRVGROS PLAN_03/2019.indd 1

04/03/2019 14:30

ENTRée

People Power

A

sk any hotel operator about the biggest challenge

championing the industry, particularly in promoting career

facing the hospitality industry today, and their

opportunities. Its Hospitality Works campaign, which helps

response will more than likely involve workforce

jobseekers find employment everywhere from hotels and

issues. Whether it’s the availability of skilled

restaurants to coffee shops and contract catering, has

labour or the quality of comprehensive training schemes,

created in excess of 8,000 work placements since its

finding the right personalities to deliver the all-important

inception, with employers such as Hilton Worldwide,

brand experience is fast becoming a major concern.

Caffè Nero and Yo! Sushi stepping forward to showcase

The topic has been raised during a number of industry

the diverse variety of roles on offer.

events in recent months, including at Deloitte’s European

Others are doing their bit to nurture emerging talent too,

Hotel Investment Conference, held in London in November

notably in the F&B arena. Steelite, for example, recently

2018. In its annual survey, the professional services firm

ran its inaugural UK Rising Star Hotel Chef Competition,

found that an overwhelming 96% of respondents –

a contest open to up-and-coming talents aged 18-30, for

predominantly owners and operators – were worried about

which our very own Assistant Editor Richard Frost was

the effects of rising employee costs, while 91% identified a

on the judging panel along with Michelin-starred chef

shortage of skilled staff as a key risk.

Simon Hulstone and Chef’s Table favourite Asma Khan.

Nowhere are staffing concerns more prevalent than in

And Le Berceau des Sens at École Hôtelière Lausanne in

the UK, where the prospect of Brexit has led to uncertainty

Switzerland has just become the first training restaurant

around the working rights of EU citizens. Wildly differing

to receive a Michelin star.

statistics have hit the headlines, but it’s thought that up to

Donning chef whites may be seen by some as a more

40% of workers in the hotel, restaurant and quick-service

desirable career choice than working front-of-house,

restaurant sectors are from the EU.

but we should not forget that the latter brings with it a

Furthermore, UK unemployment rates are at their

responsibility to make that crucial first impression, as well

lowest since the 1970s, and the fact remains that a job in

as convey the restaurant’s concept and have a thorough

hospitality isn’t held in the same regard as it is elsewhere,

knowledge of each and every dish on the menu; in short, it

in mainland Europe or Asia for example; it’s seen as more

should not be viewed by anyone as a lesser option.

of a temporary stopgap to fund studies or travels than as a permanent career path.

Aside from the challenges Brexit may send our way, it’s widely felt that labour shortages in the hospitality sector

However, there are a growing number of initiatives

are now approaching crisis point. Yet for those working

committed to changing this perception, aimed at not only

as part of a dynamic team in any one of the world’s many

attracting people to the sector, but developing and retaining

new hotels, bars, restaurants, cafés or nightclubs, there’s

them too. UKHospitality – formed in 2018 from the merger

typically a strong belief among staff that, while demanding,

of the Association of Licensed Multiple Retailers and the

it’s also an extremely rewarding sector. The key is going to

British Hospitality Association – has made great strides in

be in communicating that to the next generation.

Catherine Martin | Managing Editor

011

THE BRIGADE P O R T FO LI O @suppermag

Editorial

Design

Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner - m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

Design Manager David Bell - d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

Managing Editor Catherine Martin - c.martin@mondiale.co.uk

Production Zoe Willcox - z.willcox@mondiale.co.uk

Assistant Editor Richard Frost - r.frost@mondiale.co.uk Editorial Assistant Kristofer Thomas - k.thomas@mondiale.co.uk Ben Thomas - b.thomas@mondiale.co.uk Consulting Editor Heleri Rande - heleri@hrande.com

Finance Finance Director Amanda Giles - a.giles@mondiale.co.uk Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey - s.healey@mondiale.co.uk

Advertising Advertising Manager Rachel Chadwick - r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk Account Manager Visha Khan - v.khan@mondiale.co.uk

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi - l.levi@mondiale.co.uk Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney - k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

Corporate

Marketing Chairman Damian Walsh - d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk Brand Director Amy Wright - a.wright@mondiale.co.uk

Strawberry Studios, Watson Square Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 8390 www.suppermagazine.co.uk

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VISION

“You have never seen wine like this!“

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Setting

Trends and developments in the global F&B sector

“Hotel reservations driven by expert curation and exclusive privileges will be a significant addition to Michelin’s travel portfolio.”

Laurent Vernhes and Michael Davis, co-founders of Tablet

APPETISERS

Stars and Swipes Michelin’s acquisition of Tablet could help it develop a lucrative online offering to complement the iconic red guides.

016

The Michelin Guide has long enjoyed an enviable position

that will change the scale of Tablet and transform the Tablet

in the guidebook market, trusted implicitly by countless bon

Plus programme,” they say. “Likewise, hotel reservations

vivants down the decades. But today’s consumers have grown

driven by expert curation and exclusive privileges will be a

accustomed to accessing restaurant and hotel reviews on

significant addition to Michelin’s travel portfolio.”

their digital devices and making reservations at the touch of

It’s worth pointing out that Michelin is no stranger

a button – something that has never been the tyre company’s

to bolstering its portfolio with targeted acquisitions. In

forte. The ViaMichelin website may have some devotees, yet

2016, the 130-year-old company bought Madrid-based

it clearly does not dominate the online market to the same

restaurant reservation service Restaurantes.com and London-

extent as print, with the likes of TripAdvisor, Yelp and

headquartered counterpart BookaTable, with the latter then

OpenTable each wielding huge amounts of digital influence.

going on to snap up pre-order and pre-payment specialist

Perhaps this is what prompted Michelin to splash out on

EasyPreOrders (EPO) earlier this year. EPO could prove to

acquiring New York-headquartered hotel booking platform

be especially astute since its technology allows restaurant

Tablet recently. Founded in 2000, Tablet offers members the

bookings, orders and payments to be taken upfront – an

ability to choose from a carefully curated selection of 3,500

innovation sure to appeal to many hospitality professionals,

boutique and luxury hotels worldwide; each property has been

keen to safeguard F&B revenues by reducing exposure to the

anonymously visited and evaluated prior to listing, and even

havoc wreaked by last-minute no-shows.

those that make the grade risk being deleted further down

Michelin has also made no secret of its desire to expand into

the line if they receive poor ratings from users. A key part of

new territories. Although the little red book has been around

its offer is the Tablet Plus Travel Club rewards programme,

since 1900, it only ventured beyond Europe as recently as

which charges members £79 a year to gain access to a variety

2006 with the publication of a New York City edition; its drive

of perks when staying at participating properties. Depending

into Asia has been an even newer phenomenon, with places

on the hotel, these might include welcome bottles of wine on

like Taipei, Guangzhou, Bangkok, Shanghai and Seoul each

arrival, food and drink credits to spend in its F&B venues, or

getting guides within the last three years. The acquisition of

even complimentary meals and cocktails.

platforms like Tablet will surely help the business develop an

The deal has been hailed as a win-win by Laurent Vernhes

offer that appeals to established and up-and-coming markets

and Michael Davis, Tablet’s co-founders. “Our dedication to

alike, one capable of combining trustworthy reviews with a

integrity has made us leaders in our respective fields, and

seamless digital booking experience. We may be seeing a lot

now we’re combining forces for a ground-breaking union

more of the Michelin Man online in the coming years.

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APPETISERS

Grow Your Own A new crop of chefs are sourcing ingredients from within a few miles – or even metres – of their kitchen.

The demand for locally sourced ingredients has soared in

the dining room – with jars of homegrown preserves that

recent times, with consumers favouring homegrown produce

keep dishes flavoursome through the winter months, from

over those imported from overseas. In turn, an increasing

fermented celeriac to pickled damsons and crispy ramson

number of restaurants now obtain ingredients from nearby

flowers. For Chef-Owner Sam Buckley, the drive to avoid

farms, boosting the local economy while supporting

waste serves as a catalyst for creativity. “We can take a single

sustainability efforts. Taking things a step further, a new crop

ingredient and produce many different textures and flavours

of chefs are beginning to reduce the distance between farm

using various techniques,” he explains. “As an example, we’re

and fork to just a few metres, growing their own hyperlocal

using waste yeast from local brewer Cloudwater to make

produce and collaborating even more closely with farmers

Marmite-style bouillon as well as an ice cream that floats atop

to build localised supplier networks that minimise waste

the beer that it was formed from. Waste ingredients stretch

without compromising on flavour.

our imagination and let us explore places in cooking that we

The hyperlocal concept isn’t necessarily new, but those

018

would otherwise never visit.”

partaking in the movement have historically been Michelin-

On a high-tech scale, hydroponic growing systems at the

starred chefs or large country houses with ample resources,

likes of 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin are enabling foods to be

as opposed to city dwellers reliant on third-party suppliers.

produced indoors without the need for soil, trickling nutrient-

Times are changing however, with vertical herb gardens,

rich water past the roots of plants and using artificial lighting

rooftop greenhouses and underground allotments promoting

to create a healthy year-round yield. Likewise, London-based

agriculture in even the densest of urban locations. At IHG’s

firm Growing Underground is rearing fresh micro greens and

QO Amsterdam, kitchen garden and bar Juniper & Kin uses

salad leaves 33m below the streets of Clapham in a disused

the herbs, vegetables and fruit from its rooftop, as well as

tube tunnel, supplying them to the city’s Borough Market and

fish from an outdoor pond, in a selection of small dishes. Its

Michelin-starred restaurants such as Le Gavroche.

high-tech rooftop greenhouse is fully self-sufficient and self-

Though sitting down for lunch or dinner may not feel like

regulating, with fish waste providing an organic food source

an act of environmental destruction, today’s food production,

for plants, and those plants purifying water for the fish.

transporation and waste levels are certainly not doing the

Taking a similarly ecological approach is Where the Light

planet any favours. Nevertheless, the rise of farm-to-fork and

Gets In, a 30-cover restaurant occupying a former coffee

hyperlocal schemes, coupled with promising developments

warehouse in Stockport. This establishment makes a point

in technology and agriculture, are helping the F&B industry

of lining its kitchen – an open-plan affair housed within

transition towards a greener future.

www.pordamsa.com @pordamsadesignforchefs

APPETISERS

Culture Club With naturally sourced beverages seeing an increase in demand, could an obscure fermented Asian brew find a foothold in the west?

As the wellness movement gathered pace throughout the

enthusiasts searching out an organic solution. As such, a

2010s, so too did interest in the so-called gut-brain axis,

traditional Chinese brew has seen a surge in popularity

and the relationship between stomach health and mental

following a history of relative obscurity in the west.

health. Though the connections between stomach and brain

Referred to as mushroom tea, tea fungus and in some cases

– or, more formally, the biochemical signalling between the

SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), but most

gastrointestinal tract and the central nervous system – have

commonly known as kombucha, the fermented brew of black

been hypothesised since the 1960s, when shared peptides

or green tea is said to be rich in probiotics.

were discovered in both simultaneously, it took the breezy

Whilst the process to make kombucha (dissolve sugar

language of diet plans, advertising campaigns and Instagram

in water, add tea leaves and the purchased – or grown –

influencers for it to really claim a foothold in the mainstream.

SCOBY, then allow to ferment for 10-14 days) along with its

In layman’s terms, the axis encompasses the interplay

appearance (often cloudy, with a film of solid bacteria floating

between healthy digestive processes and an individual’s brain

on the surface) have been enough to put off some in the past,

function. In essence, if the gut is kept healthy and functioning

the purported benefits are now generating plenty of interest.

smoothly, the brain benefits; methods to care for one can also

Whilst empirical evidence of said benefits is scarce, anecdotes

help the other. Whilst the classics of a balanced diet, regular

from kombucha purists tell of weight loss, improved bone

exercise and avoidance of certain foods, additives and oils

health, alleviation from stomach-ache and nausea, as well

will suffice in most cases, some individuals are seeking ways

as improved mental capacity. Placebo or not, kombucha

to optimise the axis’ performance, and, by extension, their

certainly has its fans.

overall health.

020

What kombucha doesn’t have, however, is major shelf

As such, the rise of probiotics as a marketing draw has

presence. Predominantly and traditionally a home-brewed

become increasingly common. Be it yoghurts, pickles,

drink, it may well have word-of-mouth recommendations and

buttermilk or cheese, the presence of what is often dubbed

a growing reputation within wellness circles on its side, but

‘friendly’ bacteria and yeasts in certain fermented cultures

lacks the ubiquity of yoghurts and the easy sell of mainstream

and foodstuffs has become a prominent selling point. Helping

alternatives. Were a hotel establishment – perhaps one with a

to keep the gut healthy and balanced with complementary or

dedicated wellness slant, or a health club within its premises

similarly structured flora that replace and restore bacterial

– to take the step of stocking kombucha, then who’s to say

deficiencies caused by illness, treatment or mistreatment,

this previously obscure mixture couldn’t find its way into the

probiotics have become a first port of call for wellness

daily routine of countless health-conscious guests?

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19/03/2019 14:59:23

SERVICE

Profiling leading figures with a fresh take on hotel F&B

“Our language of cooking moves around the world, and we adapt to what we find.�

Francis Mallmann, Argentine chef, restaurateur and hotelier

Photography: © Audrey Ma

SERVICE

All Fired Up A passionate advocate of open-fire cooking, Argentine chef Francis Mallmann reflects on how his signature style is winning countless admirers around the world.

Words: Lucy Lovell

F

rancis Mallmann is a difficult man to pin down. The Argentine chef, restaurateur and hotelier is more at home on his private island in Patagonia, cooking over an open fire, than taking part in an interview in Buenos Aires. “As I grow older I like to be more in

nature, that’s for sure,” he tells me in his tiny restaurant Patagonia Sur. “It makes me feel better and happier.” He arrived in the city from his restaurant in the vineyards of Mendoza no more than an hour before, and he’ll leave for Uruguay via ferry to visit his hotel and restaurant there in a couple more. True to his nomadic reputation, he’s a man that’s always on the move.

Despite this, he looks settled in his restaurant. He seems at home, sat by the open fireplace on a sofa strewn with antique embroidered throws, framed by shelves stacked high with eclectic objects from around the world. Wearing a denim beret and his signature red spectacles, he looks like the final piece of the puzzle, set into place. It’s clear that Mallmann’s restaurants are steeped with his identity – a concept that’s crucial for him. “It’s more important than the food,” he quips, before pointing out his favourite collection of French ceramics, which line the dining room shelves – all white, all handmade in Paris by Astier de Villatte. Beyond the exquisite pottery, just three wooden tables dressed with fine silverware sit in a dimly lit dining room, cloaked by black wooden panelling on oxblood-red walls.

“For me, the scene is very important,” he continues, leaning closer over a coffee table strewn with books about Patagonia. “That’s the first

025

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SERVICE

silent way of touching someone. When they walk in and nothing is said, but there’s this first message of joy, beauty, or mystery.” Mallmann’s magic touch has proven to be effective across a huge range of projects (he currently oversees a collection of nine restaurants), and he has a talent for turning undervalued sites into thriving foodie hubs.

The Argentine opened his first hotel and restaurant in 2003 in Garzón, Uruguay – then a rundown village that went into decline after its rail station closed. Mallmann’s five-bed luxury retreat, Hotel & Restaurante Garzón, helped revive the neighbourhood’s ebbing fortunes; now it’s one of South America’s must-visit food-and-drink destinations. A decade later, he teamed up with five-star resort The Vines in the wine-rich Uco Valley region of Mendoza. Set in the stunning mountainous landscape of western Argentina, Mallmann is Partner in onsite restaurant Siete Fuegos (literally, ‘Seven Fires’ in English), so called because of his seven open-flame cooking techniques used in the kitchen. More recently, the in-demand chef was snapped up by luxury hotel company Faena Group to head up restaurant Los Fuegos at Faena Hotel Miami Beach, a key part of its billion-dollar Faena District development.

“If you want to make a tea, you light a fire. It’s not very modern, but it’s how we lived in the past. I was raised in a home a bit like that, so it brings me a lot of good memories.”

From the rustic simplicity of Hotel & Restaurante Garzón to the all-out extravagance of Los Fuegos, there’s one common thread that runs throughout Mallmann’s work: fire. A leader in the field, Mallmann championed cooking with fire during a time when molecular gastronomy was à la mode. He separated himself from the herd and dedicated years to inventing, researching and refining techniques that harness the flame. For some cooks, the open flame might be a daunting prospect, but for Mallmann nothing is more familiar. “It’s our language, to cook with fire,” he says warmly, speaking lovingly about a method of cooking that has been in his life since childhood, and in his family for generations.

“It’s quite natural to me.”

But there was a time when Mallmann lost his connection with cooking over coals. Like many great chefs, he started his love-affair with food in Paris, and cooked his way through the kitchens of some of the great French stars of the time. He became – in his own words – an arrogant French chef, and copied what he had learnt for many years.

The turning point came in the form of one ingredient: the humble potato. Writing in his book Seven Fires, Mallmann describes the moment he was invited to cook a meal for the International Academy of Gastronomy. It was, according to him, the catalyst to return to his Photography: © The Vines of Mendoza / Michael H Evans

mother tongue. “I think a guardian angel – a very Argentine angel – whispered in my ear at that point,” he writes. “She suggested an entire menu featuring potatoes, the great gift of South America to the world’s

027

SERVICE

Photography: © Faena Hotel Miami Beach / Juan Fernando Ayora

larder.” And so he sent his chef to Peru with a simple shopping list:

technique – vegetables are buried in the ground with hot ashes and

a thousand pounds of potatoes. Even the tables were decorated with

slow cooked for around four hours, meats up to seven. Siete Fuegos also

potatoes. Piles of them, ten inches high and covered in mud. After the

uses the iconic asador. Also known as pirca or cruz, whole animals are

prestigious guests devoured the nine courses, all of which featured

butterflied and pinned on a metal cross, then cooked slowly for around

potatoes, the meal was declared a resounding success.

eight hours next to an open fire pit, resulting in a crisp, smoky skin and

From that moment on, Mallmann dedicated himself to cooking cuisine in the Argentine tradition of “wood, fire and cast iron”. In Hotel &

Perhaps the most famous technique is also one of Mallmann’s newest:

Restaurante Garzón, the kitchen only uses fire; that means no electricity

the dome. Capable of feeding up to 600 guests, the dome is constructed

or propane, just a wood oven, grills and planchas. “If you want to make

with an iron frame, and a ring of fire follows the rods in the ground. The

a tea, you light a fire,” he says proudly. Here, fire isn’t just used to add

frame is used to suspend meat or fish: whole Patagonian chickens, fish

flavour, it also slows things down, encouraging guests to unplug and

in bamboo beds, or rib-eye beef cooked for up to 12 hours. The entire

unwind. “It’s a pace I like very much,” he adds. “It’s not very modern,

process – from building the dome to roasting your last potato – takes

but it’s how we lived in the past. I was raised in a home a bit like that, so

14 hours. “That’s the beauty of it, you cook things very, very slowly,”

it brings me a lot of good memories.”

he says. “They achieve incredible temperatures and remain very moist

The Vines in Mendoza was a chance for Mallmann to broaden his horizons. He explains: “From 1992 onwards, I had wood ovens and grills, but Siete Fuegos was the first time I united all the techniques

028

soft meat.

and tender.” It’s efficient too. While hot coals work their magic on the meats, the ashes are used to cook vegetables.

There’s one goal at the heart of these techniques, and that’s flavour.

I liked. It was a beautiful experience.” At the time, there were seven

Vegetables taste thick with smoke, and meat is impossibly tender. At

techniques, although the number is always growing. They include the

Siete Fuegos, the menu is refreshingly simple, with dishes that balance

infiernillo, where two fires sandwich ingredients and cook from above

the bold, charred flavours from the fire with light ingredients. Soup

and below. It’s best used for products with a skin – such as chicken or

made from pumpkins cooked rescaldo is served with Trebolgiano cheese

salmon – or salt-baking vegetables like beetroots. Rescaldo is an ancient

and fresh spinach; six-hour-cooked pork ribs come with a crisp celery

W W W. D I B B E R N . D E

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13.03.19 12:30

SERVICE

Photography: © Faena Hotel Miami Beach / Juan Fernando Ayora

and fennel salad; a rich ribeye from the parrilla is offset with ratatouille and a zingy green salad.

With a strong focus on local produce and seasonality, the chef’s

approach into practice in his other establishments – from subtle touches

menus vary depending on time of year and location. As such, the Miami-

to grand gestures. At Hotel & Restaurante Garzón, guests can choose

based Los Fuegos features a distinct menu, but diners will find the same

to take their dinner in the mountains one night, or even in the local

Mallmann flavours. “I didn’t change my cooking, I just cooked different

stream, where a couple can soak their feet in the cool water while eating

things,” he explains. “We changed completely to the products of Florida,

in the sun. At his restaurant in France, there are poetry books on every

with a bit of America as well – fish from hot waters, from warm seas.”

table. “Some get inspired to recite a poem, and they read it aloud,” he

Here, guests will find regional specialities like smoked whole local

says with a grin. “I really believe in their intimacy. I like to walk away

grouper and Maine lobster-tail tagliatelle. And Mallmann makes clear

and let them enjoy.”

that learning to use new ingredients is a pleasure for him, rather than a

Ultimately, he is looking to spark something in his guests – a flicker

chore. He sums it up perfectly: “Our language of cooking moves around

of rebellion or a flutter in the heart that might change them forever.

the world, and we adapt to what we find.”

According to Mallmann, the biggest secret to success is putting

But Mallmann offers more than just food, he offers a taste of his

mystery back into service, and giving guests the opportunity to explore

lifestyle. For him, hosting dinners at hotels is a chance for him to

something different. “The worst enemies we humans have are routine

completely immerse guests into a different way of life – and maybe

and fear because they are the two things that paralyse us,” he says.

instil some new habits. “I want to get them out of their routine, their

“Service is stepping back, giving hints, suggesting different ways to live

mode of living. That’s what I like to do… to make them realise that

in the days they spend with you. Showing them a path and letting them

there are better ways of living. Not that mine is the best one, but I really

go, not taking them by the hand.”

believe in beautiful things, in touching people in a way that they will never forget.”

One of the best ways to get the full Mallmann experience is to stay

A romantic at heart, Mallmann believes that these magical touches can happen anywhere, at any time. When he senses that our interview is winding down, he asks if he can read me a poem. He then starts to recite

on his private island in Patagonia. A guesthouse there offers just four

one of the English poems written by his favourite Argentine poet, Jorge

visitors the opportunity to spend five days taking fire-oriented cooking

Luis Borges. “What can I hold you with,” he begins.

lessons with the man himself. At La Isla, there is no network coverage,

030

But you don’t need to trek all the way to Patagonia to get an authentic taste of the wilderness. There are many ways that Mallmann puts this

He reads slowly, his deep voice easily fills the small restaurant, while

no WiFi and no mobile phones. “People are really disconnected from

his little dog Luna curls up at my feet. It’s bewitching and perfectly

the world for a week, which is very rare nowadays,” says Mallmann. “I

encapsulates how this charismatic chef is like the fire he cooks with:

can’t take too many because I need to work – and when we do that, I’m

wild, unruly and very intense – qualities that have fired up countless

always there.” Unsurprisingly, hiring Mallmann’s private island for a

food lovers down the years, drawing more and more diners towards

week – with him on it – doesn’t come cheap: US$44,000 to be exact.

Mallmann and his growing hospitality empire.

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SERVICE

Smashing It Joerg Meyer, the snappily dressed creator of the Gin Basil Smash, lifts the lid on developing tailor-made bar concepts for 25hours Hotels.

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Martin Haag, Hafencitystudios (unless otherwise stated)

W

idely regarded as one of the biggest names in

them stand out from other departments in his eyes. “They

the bar world, Joerg Meyer is also famed in

would make more money in tips than the hotel manager’s

bartending circles for his impeccable dress

salary, and get phone numbers from the ladies,” chuckles

sense, and today is certainly no exception.

Meyer. “Of course they were in a good mood.” Being the

One can always spot his well-put-together outfit – suit

hardworking German that he is, the eager apprentice was

jacket, statement pocket square, polished shoes – as befits

only too happy to help those behind the bar polish glasses

a gentleman who enjoys nothing more than delivering

and clean up long after the Italians serving in the restaurant

a flawless service to guests at one of the many bars that

had left. Moreover, Meyer invested the tips that he made

he has helped create. His kind demeanour and subdued

back into his continuing professional development – by

humour is enticing too, making you wonder at times

drinking at the best places in Hamburg.

whether he himself might be just another perfectly evoked

“There were two bars I would go to,” he recalls. “The

character from one of the countless vignettes that he paints

first was run by an old gentleman who knew everything,

during our interview.

it was really perfect theatre. The second was Harry’s New

“I grew up in hospitality,” Meyer begins, when asked

York Bar – a big bar with a crazy set-up.” The manager of

how he got into the drinks business in the first place.

Harry’s ended up taking the young German with him to his

Cutting his teeth at his parents’ countryside pubs, it did not

new venture in the mid-90s, which is when Meyer officially

take him long to yearn for the excitement offered by the

became a bartender.

big city. So after completing his A levels, he applied to two

The years that followed saw Meyer run a cinema bar,

hotel apprenticeships for waiters in Hamburg and, as luck

become partner in a restaurant bar that he subsequently

would have it, got accepted on one.

sold, and return to his parents’ side to help his sick father.

Working at an Italian fine-dining hotel restaurant in

Upon his return to Hamburg, however, he found himself

Hamburg, Meyer quickly realised that the bartenders

unable to secure the right spot to realise a dream that had

were always in a good mood, something that really made

long occupied his thoughts – opening the perfect classic

033

Joerg Meyer’s famous Gin Basil Smash

Sape Bar at 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord in Paris © Steve Herud

034

SERVICE

“We created a neighbourhood-driven cosy bar, the best dive bar you can have. But we kept the core values – good-quality spirits, good ice and good service.”

bar. Instead, at the end of 2005, he decided to launch an unlicensed

to buy the venue of the old gentlemen’s bar that had taught both of

drinks den called Le Bon Lion on the first floor of his business partner

them valuable lessons in the drinks business. “We decided that we

Rainer Wendt’s establishment Café Paris, conveniently located in the

wanted to create the total opposite of Le Lion because it took us three

heart of the city centre.

years to make money there, and I could not afford that anymore,” says

Le Bon Lion was inspired by American author Ernest Hemingway’s

Meyer, recounting the story behind the first Boilerman Bar. “So we

short story The Good Lion, a fable about a young lion from a rich family

created a very neighbourhood-driven cosy bar, the best dive bar you can

drinking classic cocktails in Venice’s best bars. “We liked the story very

have. But we kept the core values – good-quality spirits, good ice and

much because it was about good cocktails, and being a little bit snobby,”

good service. And we simplified and shortened the menus – instead of

explains Meyer. But Le Bon Lion was no regular bar. Open only two

six tonics like at Le Lion, we only had one.”

days a week and primarily serving friends due to the missing licence

The new venue’s name, Boilerman Bar, references the origin of the

– the ceilings were not high enough by German standards – the place

word ‘highball’, which is also the main type of drink served at the bar.

inevitably became a Hamburg institution. “We had a fingerprint reader

In the mid-19th century, train workers – boilermen amongst them –

to limit the number of people who could come,” he remembers. “We

needed specific signals to tell them whether the locomotive was running

took the fingerprints of 50 friends and let them know every week in an

on time. If late, a ball was raised to the top of a pole, producing a so-

email which days we would open. But because of this, word spread very

called ‘high ball’.

quickly, and we started to be included on many best-bar lists.”

Le Bon Lion was beginning to attract unwanted attention when, in

With Le Lion and Boilerman Bar riding high in the local bar scene, Meyer was rapidly becoming a well-known entrepreneur in Hamburg,

a fortunate turn of events, the team found a space on the opposite

and it didn’t take long before a fellow innovator, 25hours Hotels CEO

side of the street, and the whole operation eventually moved there in

Christoph Hoffmann, approached Meyer and Wendt with an offer to

2007. Losing the ‘bon’ from the name, Le Lion became Meyer’s first

collaborate on developing bar concepts for the group. After cooperating

real bar – classical, with jazz music in the background, and serving an

successfully with restaurant operator Neni, Hoffmann felt that he

international crowd – just as he had it imagined it years earlier. This

needed a similar partner for its beverage programme as part of a new

was also the birthplace of Meyer’s famous Gin Basil Smash, a herbal take

F&B strategy for the group. “At the beginning, we were a little bit

on the old New York classic Whiskey Smash.

sceptical, but we decided to team up,” says Meyer. “At first, we thought

Le Lion quickly garnered many accolates and was mentioned in

about doing Boilerman Bars all over, but then looking at the plans for

publications around the world, though all this international publicity

the next project they did not fit. Feeling-wise, it was not Boilerman.”

often came as a surprise to those behind the bar. To illustrate the point,

So began a dynamic partnership in which Meyer helps produce

Meyer notes that the number of judges travelling the circuit at the outset

different brands that 25hours Hotels’ development team can choose

of all the best-bar lists was severely limited, hence there were times

between for new properties, taking into account local factors such as

when Le Lion featured without anyone having actually visited the venue.

location, environment, design and investor. “We are creating this kind

Nevertheless, he was quick to spot the marketing potential. “I used that

of suitcase with concepts for them,” he notes. “At the moment, it is four

information to our advantage, I blogged and posted a lot of photos, and

brands though we might do more. This will help them expand quicker.”

that is how we started to get known,” he says. “Not exactly fair, but

The first collaboration took place in Hamburg, where the Boilerman

that is how it was. Then we ended up in The World’s 50 Best Bars list.”

Bar concept was adapted to the 25hours Hotel Altes Hafenamt in the

Interestingly, however, no German newspapers picked up on the hype,

harbour. “For me, this worked really well since I could visit every day,

and Le Lion continued to struggle with gaining the local traction needed

get feedback and talk to the team,” he explains. “It was much faster

to ensure its longevity; indeed, the necessity of navigating high rent and

than me constantly flying to Munich or Zurich. The initial stage of our

labour costs meant that it took the team a full three years to achieve

cooperation was very important, and we could test different things to

financial success.

make sure we got them right operationally for the next properties.”

The next challenge was finding a location for his second bar, which

Talking about how the whole project team works together in practice,

eventually took the increasingly confident entrepreneur back to his years

Meyer does not shy away from admitting that there are challenges.

as an apprentice. In 2012 Meyer and Wendt were offered the opportunity

While suggesting that the perfect approach would be for everyone to sit

035

SERVICE

Boilerman Bar at 25hours Hotel Altes Hafenamt in Hamburg © Stephan Lemke

together in a collaborative spirit, he is quick to contrast this with the

Meyer had a theoretical ideal worked out, but is leaving its execution for

reality. “The 25hours hotel in Zurich was planned for nine years because

the next opening where it may be possible to start from scratch.

they had so many issues with the authorities,” he explains, by way

establishments, Meyer is a firm believer in the value of good hotel bars,

nailed down by that time, and we were asked not to touch anything as

and so it is interesting to hear him assert that the industry in general

the approval had finally come through. I had to rethink everything.”

needs to behave better towards staff. In particular, he finds it peculiar

However, there is one key element that forms the basis of all Meyer’s

that hotels typically do not offer the best pay around, despite the fact

work, regardless of the constraints inherent in individual projects.

that new F&B venues already have a ready-made clientele on their

“Every time, we sit down and write out why we are doing this bar,”

doorstep. Echoing the thoughts of Experimental Group co-founder

he says. “What is the idea? We learn a lot from the past and need to

Romée de Goriainoff, with whom he shared a stage at Sleep + Eat last

incorporate that into our thinking.” With typical directness, Meyer also

November, he believes that too many hoteliers fail to appreciate how

admits there are times that he has to argue his corner when dealing with

much of a competitive advantage this can be. “You open the door to a

those working on the financial side of the business. “We want to build a

new hotel bar and there are 300 people right outside,” he declares. “I

brand and be realistic,” he points out. “As a newcomer in an area where

had to wait three years to reach that point.”

there is no normal urban footfall, it is just not feasible to add say 30% to the budget.”

For Meyer, learning the lessons arising from each project is a vital part

036

From his unique vantage point overseeing a variety of different

of example. “We came in three years ago, but everything was already

With four openings completed over the last 12 months, the latest being Scape Bar at 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord in Paris, he now has almost a year’s break before Dubai and Florence are slated to open. This

of building stronger brands and a better concept portfolio for the hotel

gives him and the team time to hone the 25hours Hotels offering, learn

group. “With Monkey Bar at Bikini Berlin, we learnt that it just gets too

from the performance of current sites and develop a more sophisticated

crowded and people wait too long, which is not good for the brand,” he

“concept suitcase” for management. Indeed, one gets the sense from

admits. “We need to look at organising the setup better so that drinks

chatting to Meyer that this immaculately dressed entrepreneur still has

can go out quicker, and make sure hotel guests can always have access.”

plenty more tailor-made bar concepts in the suitcase, as it were, just

With The Paris Club at 25hours Hotel Das Tour in Düsseldorf, meanwhile,

waiting to be revealed when the time is right.

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Annex The Abu Dhabi Edition, UAE

Nightlife visionary Ian Schrager has brought his distinct approach to the

team serving unique twists on classic cocktails and a selection of sharing

sparkling waters of Abu Dhabi’s Al Bateen Marina, developing a new three-

beverages alongside craft beers and an extensive wine list. Coupled with

storey entertainment space at The Abu Dhabi Edition.

its F&B offering, Annex presents DJ sets and live performances inspired

Comprising a trio of distinct spaces – club, lounge and rooftop –

by a nightly theme, from disco on Thursdays to a mix of R&B and soul on

the experience starts at ground level with Annex Club, featuring live,

Friday nights, while events are also held in collaboration with Café Del Mar

international and local DJs and performers, as well as an experimental

and Ibiza Sonica Radio at Annex Rooftop.

cocktail bar. Upstairs on the first floor, Annex Lounge offers an interactive

“Culture is at the core of everything we create at Edition Hotels,” says

experience and houses the signature Edition pool table, while an al-fresco

Ben Pundole, Vice President of Brand Experience at Edition Hotels. “We

terrace can be found on the second level at Annex Rooftop, which affords

develop exciting and captivating nightlife destinations bringing the kinetic

views of the marina below. A three-storey circular atrium connects each

energy that our Creative Director Ian Schrager first established with his

of the spaces, with Macassar ebony timber slat walls circling an inner

legendary nightclub, Studio 54, in the 70s. Annex will revolutionise Abu

stairway beneath a suspended crystal net sculpture by Ingo Maurer.

Dhabi’s nightlife scene through a series of spectacular and extravagant

On the menu, small plates and light bites are inspired by Peruvian and Asian flavours, with signature dishes including the likes of wagyu and

parties with world-class DJs, rooftop events, screenings and activities – from cocktail classes to meditation and yoga.”

ocopa anticucho, braised short-rib bao bun, sea bass ceviche and dulce de leche. Mixology is also central to the Annex experience, with an in-house

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IN A BITE Covers: 222 • Owner/Developer: Bloom Holding • Operator: Marriott International, Edition Hotels • Interior Design: Ian Schrager Company, Wimberly Interiors • Graphic Design and Branding: Baron & Baron

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Photography: © Sun Resorts

Buddha-Bar Beach Sugar Beach, Mauritius

Buddha-Bar has made its debut in Mauritius with a 180-cover restaurant at

Buddha-Bar Beach rum mix with mint and grapefruit) and Make A Wish

the luxurious Sugar Beach resort. Open from 10am to 2am daily, Buddha-

Mauritius (Mauritian rum with hibiscus, lemongrass, lime juice, passion

Bar Beach delivers an international food and drink offering accompanied

fruit and ginger ale), as well as several classic cocktails and mocktails;

by the brand’s famous soundtrack, a mix of lounge, chill-out and house

guests can also order sake, rum, whisky and other alcoholic beverages as

music, in an idyllic setting on one of the country’s finest beaches.

the mood takes them. Drinks are presented to patrons in elegant glassware

Executive Chef Dhoovasen Mauree oversees an innovative fusion menu,

by Libbey, a move that further enhances the overall customer experience.

bringing together influences from the Mediterranean and Asia; diners can

Buddha-Bar Beach’s design is sure to impress visitors too, combining

choose from salads, soups, ceviche, sushi and sashimi, as well as meat and

bohemian chic and natural elements such as timber, water, sand, pebbles

fish options cooked on the robata charcoal grill. There is also a set menu

and palm trees with the glitz and glamour of iconic beach destination

featuring the likes of five-spiced chicken salad with cabbage and sesame

hangouts from the 1980s like Ibiza and Goa. Brought to life by Bishop

sauce; Thai green curry with jasmine rice; and pineapple and wasabi tofu

Design, the venue is equally adept at catering to both guests looking for

mousse. Food is typically served in large dishes to encourage sharing

a leisurely spot for lunch overlooking the crystalline waters of the Indian

between guests, and plated on smart Gemini dinnerware complemented

Ocean, and those seeking a lively atmosphere for drinks into the early

by stylish cutlery from Oneida.

hours of the morning.

The carefully curated drinks menu, meanwhile, showcases signature serves such as the social media-friendly #MojitoBBBeach (a special

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IN A BITE Covers: 180 • Owner: Sun Resorts • Architecture and Interior Design: Bishop Design • Executive Chef: Dhoovasen Mauree • F&B Manager: Sachin Surowan • Beverage Manager: David Boodhoo • Head Sommelier: Jean Michel Nanette • Restaurant Manager: Kevin Munnien, Sheerin Mulboccus • Dinnerware: Gemini • Cutlery: Oneida • Glassware: Libbey 042

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Benno The Evelyn Hotel, New York

Benno, a fine-dining restaurant and bar by chef Jonathan Benno, has

liquor display cabinet. The room itself is composed around a restored 14ft

opened its doors within The Evelyn Hotel. Occupying an historic space

domed skylight supporting a large Art Deco-inspired chandelier, whilst

dating back to 1905 and comprising a 45-cover restaurant, 30-seat private

guests are welcomed to the space by the dark-honed marble bar, and dine

room and ten-seat bar, the venue has been restored and reimagined by

on beautiful custom Leonelli plates by Steelite.

Parts and Labor Design to channel the nostalgic elegance of old New York.

“One highlight for me is the sense of discovery, in that Benno is

Serving up a menu focused on the intersection of Italian and French

something of a hidden jewel beyond the hotel and lobby restaurant,”

cuisine – specifically dishes originating in Liguria and Provence along the

explains Jeremy Levitt, co-founder of Parts and Labor. “Once you reach the

Mediterranean coast – Benno pairs dishes including Elysian Fields Farm

top of the stairs, where Benno is located, and cross through the threshold

lamb saddle and skate almondine with a beverage programme comprising

into the entry, the arrival moment is substantial and allows you to take in

wines and spirits from the same regions. The cocktail menu, meanwhile,

the first set of details in the space. It’s a high-end venue, which is still very

features The Aviation Excelsior (gin, maraschino, oleo saccharum syrup,

genuine and welcoming, matching the cuisine. Moments like the bar, the

lemon and house-made violet bitters) and Bijou (Plymouth Gin, green

credenza below the cast glass wall sconces, the geometric wallpaper and

Chartreuse and Carpano Bianco Vermouth).

ultimately the main dining area that opens up to that giant skylight are

Featuring a rich palette of deep reds, royal blues and cream, Parts and

undoubtedly details that make the space unique and successful.”

Labor’s design brings together custom furnishings and lighting fixtures with original panelling, moulding and a fireplace repurposed as a hidden

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IN A BITE Covers: 58 • Owner: Jonathan Benno, Antonio Begonja • Interior Design: Parts and Labor • Executive Chef: Jonathan Benno • F&B Manager: Liz Benno • Wine Director: Aaron Von Rock • Head Bartender: Matt Taglialavore • Dinnerware: Steelite, Rene Ozorio, Raynaud • Serveware: Alessi • Barware: Cocktail Kingdom, M Tucker • Table Decoration: Fürstenberg • Menu and Graphic Design: Agentsie • Uniform Design: Isaia 044

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Seen Lisboa Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, Lisbon

Following its successful debut at the top of Tivoli Mofarrej São Paolo,

appealing oyster bar. On the drinks side, Brazilian Head Bartender Lucas

the Seen restaurant concept by chef Olivier da Costa has now expanded

Jaques’ cocktail menu features a mix of beverages inspired by his homeland

to Lisbon. Combining a sophisticated ambience with real gastronomic

as well as classic serves like Manhattans, New York Sours and Moscow

flair, Seen Lisboa offers spectacular views over the city centre from its

Mules, while guests can also take their pick from an extensive range of

prominent home on the ninth floor of Tivoli Avenida Liberdade.

Japanese sakes.

The Sidney Quintela-designed space draws inspiration from the 1930s,

Billing itself as ‘the new spot to sin and be seen’, Seen Lisboa is a

particularly the Art Deco movement, and employs an array of materials

cosmopolitan and vibrant addition to the impressive F&B offering at Tivoli

characteristic of the era, such as wood, brass, velvet and marble. The design

Mofarrej São Paolo, which already boasts highly rated seafood restaurant

team has introduced plenty of greenery too, installing vertical gardens

Cervejaria Liberdade and two stylish bars. At the same time, it further

within the main dining room and positioning a spectacular tree in the

extends the growing restaurant empire of da Costa, who is also behind the

middle of the 360-degree bar at the restaurant’s entrance.

Avenida, K.O.B., Guilty, Yakuza and Petit Palais brands. The Lisbon-born

The kitchen, helmed by Chef de Cuisine Ivan Muhongo, specialises

chef originally partnered with Tivoli Hotels & Resorts to open Seen São

in modern Portuguese-Brazilian cuisine, with wagyu beef, fish and

Paolo, a chic space known for the quality of both its cuisine and cocktails,

seafood sourced from the Portuguese coast sitting alongside traditional

in the heart of South America’s largest city in April 2017.

Brazilian palm hearts, pupunha palm and cassava. In addition, there is a contemporary sushi bar, led by Thalles Boniatti dos Santos, and an

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046

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Bougainville Hotel TwentySeven, Amsterdam Words: Richard Frost • Photography: Courtesy of Hotel TwentySeven

A

ward-winning Dutch hotelier Eric Toren had

unabashedly bills itself as ‘the most opulent sanctuary

an extraordinary dream hotel, one that

Amsterdam has to offer’, with each of its 16 suites packed

would deliver the experience of a lifetime

with premium features like handmade silk carpets by

to demanding guests seeking the last word in luxury.

Ebru, comfortable lounge sofas by Ascensión Lattore,

Naturally, this property would have to feature the most

well-stocked EuroCave wine coolers, two-person Jacuzzis

palatial suites imaginable, but it would also need to offer

and sensual artworks. As Toren puts it, the overarching

the finest food and drink around.

idea was to create something “lovely, sexy and romantic”,

Fortunately, he already had a wealth of experience

characteristics that neatly encapsulate the ambience

to draw upon; not only was he the owner of the highly

at Bougainville, its fine-dining restaurant. Toren and

regarded Hotel Sebastians in Amsterdam, he had

renowned designer Wim van de Oudeweetering worked

previously owned one of Europe’s finest boutique hotels,

together to develop an intimate space filled with luxurious

The Toren, in the same city too. When The Toren was

seating, lush fabrics, chic light sculptures, aspirational

snapped up by The Pavilions Hotels & Resorts in 2016,

pictures of beautiful models, and a stylish brown-and-

he teamed up with the group to help develop new

gold colour scheme, cleverly accented by flashes of

properties throughout the world. But it wouldn’t be long

vivid-pink flowers and flickering candlelight. The same

before an opportunity arose to work his magic on Dam

aesthetic is evident too in the hotel’s inviting cocktail den,

27, a magnificent building housing the Royal Industrial

Bar TwentySeven, where the main focal point is an elegant

Club and boasting spectacular views over Amsterdam’s

onyx bar crafted from a special cut by SolidNature.

landmark Dam Square, and so he decided to leave The Pavilions to focus on realising his dream.

048

The result is Hotel TwentySeven, a luxury boutique that

long harboured a singular vision: to create

Of course, first-rate design is not the only prerequisite to setting a new property apart from the competition.

MAIN COURSE

049

“You don’t create a dream hotel simply by building a nice restaurant,

and-drink offering has actually been developed jointly by the chefs

bar and rooms, they’re just the hardware,” reflects Toren. “The most

and sommeliers. As Mijnhijmer explains, the process of creating a new

important part is getting the software right, which means attracting

dish might start with the kitchen brigade proposing to add something

the best people to work there.” At Bougainville, the restaurant is led

different to the menu, but this is merely the cue for an exhaustive

by Executive Chef Tim Golsteijn, a rising culinary star who made his

series of group tastings in which sommeliers are invited to suggest

name at Restaurant Parker’s in Amsterdam, and Wine Director Lendl

changes to the food, just as much as chefs are encouraged to critique the

Mijnhijmer, the 2018 Dutch Sommelier Champion and winner of the

recommended wine pairings. Nothing makes it onto the menu until all

2015 WSET McNie Tasting Trophy. The bar, meanwhile, is overseen

parties agree.

by knowledgeable Head Bartender Eric van Beek, whose most notable

The five- and seven-course tasting menus, with accompanying

achievement to date is triumphing at the 2018 Bacardi Legacy cocktail

wine selections, are where the fruits of this painstaking process can

competition in Mexico City.

be most keenly felt. The highly technical kitchen’s flair for combining

Toren also stresses that individual staff members, no matter how

starter featuring salty crabmeat, crisp apple, creamy avocado and fresh

all-round guest experience. “I have to make everyone believe they’re

lettuce, accompanied by a lively ‘sushi vinegar’ served at the table; it’s

working towards the same goal,” he says. “They’re not just working for

intelligently paired with a glass of Akarua Rua Pinot Gris 2017 from

the restaurant, the bar or the hotel, it’s all the same thing.”

New Zealand, complementing the cuisine with a pleasing burst of

Bougainville provides a fascinating insight into how this collaborative

050

gastronomic influences from East and West manifests in a divine cold

talented, must show willingness to help colleagues deliver the best

fruitiness and acidity. Better still is a stunning main course in which

approach pays dividends; on a typical day, half of those in the service

a generous portion of monkfish sits above a creamy and spicy satay

team are sommeliers, and each one selflessly carries out their fair

sauce, topped with a crunchy green papaya salad; it’s paired here with a

share of regular front-of-house tasks like taking orders and clearing

Tahbilk Marsanne 2015, an inspired choice as the oft-overlooked grape

tables, while also being on hand to share their oenological expertise

unexpectedly delivers a roundness and intensely fruity flavour profile

the moment a guest requires it. Even more impressively, the food-

that holds up remarkably well to the powerful sauce.

MAIN COURSE

With such creativity on show, it’s easy to understand why

concept of Bar TwentySeven is to give guests an experience that they

Bougainville won a Michelin star less than a year after opening, and

won’t receive anywhere else,” says van Beek. “We want to offer them a

recognition from the world’s most prestigious restaurant guide has

couple of hours in paradise.”

had a significant impact on bookings. “We were already doing well on

Thanks in no small part to its outstanding F&B offering, Hotel

weekends before but, after winning the star, even weekdays are now

TwentySeven has successfully realised Toren’s vision of creating a

getting booked solid,” says Mijnhijmer. “Also, the amount spent by

glimpse of paradise for his demanding guests here in Amsterdam. So

customers has gone up significantly.”

what might the 55-year-old’s next challenge be? “People keep asking if

Average spend is doubtless boosted further still by the growing

I’d create TwentySevens in other cities and, of course, it interests me,”

reputation of Bar TwentySeven, which offers an on-trend probiotic

he reveals. “But to make that happen, investors would need to share

cocktail menu, and uses several exclusive ingredients such as in-

my vision, and have lots of money behind them.” For now, though, the

house organic pineapple beer. Its signature cocktail is the Cariño, a

ambitious hotelier is focused on driving his star-studded team onto

combination of Bacardí Ocho, yellow Chartreuse, Greek yoghurt, vanilla,

ever greater heights. “Whatever you do, you must never think you’ve

lemon juice and nutmeg that helped van Beek win Bacardí Legacy – a

hit perfection,” he asserts. “The reputation of every new hotel brand

mixological masterpiece that inspired Golsteijn’s team to develop a

depends entirely on the success of the first property.” On this evidence,

dessert of the same name over in the restaurant. Drinks are served in

at least, the TwentySeven brand is off to a dream start.

top-quality glassware by the likes of John Jenkins, Riedel and Luigi Bormioli, a fitting accompaniment to the plush surroundings. “The

www.restaurantbougainville.com

IN A BITE Covers: 40-45 (Restaurant), 8 (Private Dining Room) • Owner: Eric Toren, private investors • Architecture: ZZDP Architecten • Interior Design: Wim van de Oudeweetering, Cris van Amsterdam • Executive Chef: Tim Golsteijn • Wine Director: Lendl Mijnhijmer • Head Bartender: Eric van Beek • Dinnerware: Fürstenberg, Raynaud, Dibbern • Cutlery: Hepp, Roland Lanier • Glassware: Riedel, Zalto • Table Linen: Blycolin • Uniform Design: Jose Deken-Glas, Petra Toren

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Matilda 159 Domain United Places Botanic Gardens, Melbourne

Words: Nina Caplan • Photography: © Gareth Sobey (unless otherwise stated)

T

he Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria is one of the most tranquil areas of the sprawling city of Melbourne; just across the Yarra River from the Central Business District, it offers anyone who stays on its outer edge the opportunity to meander by lakes,

verdant plantations and blossoming camellia beds, and along a river that seems permanently populated by scudding rowboats on their way to the hectic concentration of shops, bars and restaurants that make up Melbourne’s centre.

Taking a prime spot directly opposite the gardens, United Places is the first hotel from developer Darren Rubenstein, who has brought together collaborators from various creative fields to design a concept that celebrates the natural world. All 12 of the hotel’s suites have balconies, most of which look out onto the greenery, and interiors are intentionally pared-back in a scheme that’s both calming and sustainable; elements that are even more evident at Matilda 159 Domain, the connecting restaurant from Melbourne star chef Scott Pickett.

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Dressed spanner crab served with prawn butter and flatbread

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Photography: © Tim Grey

Pavement seating outside offers botanical views, and once inside,

the bone served with native Grenobloise, and wood-fired Macedon

recessed display cases filled with local plantlife. The space seats around

duck. “The food here is all very much defined by fire and coal, so we

130 diners in its cool, dark-wood interior, and also serves breakfast, as

don’t want to place any further restrictions on ourselves apart from

well as catering to those who prefer to eat in the privacy of their own

sourcing the best produce we possibly can,” says Young. The restaurant

room. It can’t, however, top up the bottles of Sullivans Cove, the award-

is packed-out daily, and he feels that the grills set up the right kind of

winning Tasmanian whisky in each suite: “There wasn’t enough for us,”

expectation: “After walking past this kitchen, you’re not going to be

says Venue Manager Matthew Bjordal, noting that, despite the A$185

looking for tiny dots of foam, or fancy packaging on the plate.” Coal and

price tag, the distillery is too small and popular to supply more.

wood, both Pickett and Young feel, make the best seasoning: “We try

Rubenstein, in tandem with Pickett, creative agency Projects of Imagination (which also had a hand in Jackalope, the design-conscious hotel on the Mornington Peninsula) and architects Carr Design Group,

to remain true to that first impression. You smell the fire, feel the heat, and we then translate that to the table.”

The crockery, by Melbourne-based Andrei Davidoff, is also simple;

has placed an emphasis on sustainability that spans both hotel and

stoneware in greys and browns, the bread plates such a smooth, dark

restaurant. Almost all the furniture is Australian-made, including the

grey that stroking them ought to leave clay on your fingers. Davidoff

restaurant’s blackwood tables from the Otway ranges, and the produce

has created all the crockery, even for the kitchen, which makes sense

is so determinedly local that Head Chef Tim Young can say, with

given that it too is on display; the elegant glass table lamps are by

satisfaction, that “nothing is imported except the soy sauce”.

Mark Douglass; and the chairs are bentwood made by Thonet Australia,

Local and natural, those all-too-common buzzwords, are given a special spin here. The blazing grills take a mix of fruit woods, there’s a

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Australian ingredients, with signature dishes including John Dory on

guests walk by the open kitchen with Zesti fires blazing, then past

inspired by eminent architect Le Corbusier.

Central to the concept is the refusal to forget that the botanic gardens

smoker in the corner, and guests pass stacks of logs en route to the large

are just across the road. There’s an innovative display of dried native

back room where most of the tables, including comfortable leather-

plants, but also the bespoke Pickett & Co gin with its native botanicals,

coated banquettes, await. And Scott’s menu honours seasonal fare and

which is as local as they come, made down the road in Collingwood.

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Beetroot with Geraldton wax

There are six other Australian gins, an entirely Aussie beer list, and

It all feels seamless, from the waitstaff’s genuine charm to the

the superb wine list has plenty of local options for those looking to

understated décor and the delicate blend of flavours and textures.

explore the country’s vineyards. This region of north-eastern Victoria

Pickett wanted it to look timeless, says Young, “both to continue

is most famous for Rick Kinzbrunner’s world-renowned and eye-

that idea of nature following through into the restaurant and so we

wateringly expensive Giaconda chardonnay, but Head Sommelier Clint

wouldn’t have to do it all again in ten years!” There are elements of

Fox paired Savaterre chardonnay with charred corn, harissa and comté,

Pickett’s personality in the décor too, according to Young: “He can be

then matched Wood Park chardonnay to a roundel of tuna tartare,

outrageous, but mostly he’s pretty understated.” It seems appropriate

prettily strewn with local greenery and accompanied by a rice crisp,

that diners could become regulars without ever realising that the large

Davidson plums and macadamia mayonnaise. Another small Beechworth

black door alongside leads to the all-suite hotel – although missing out

producer, Fighting Gully Road, showed up later with a sangiovese that

on the inner corridor’s startling wall, its concrete pressed to resemble

went beautifully with Diamond Valley pork jowl with clams, cucumber

the look and texture of fine wood planks, would be a pity. But hotel

and charred apple. The commitment to staying local continues in the

guests certainly don’t remain unaware of Matilda’s existence. Despite

downstairs bar, where Maidenii vermouths and tonic wines are made

the suites’ well-equipped kitchens, very few guests actually cook

from viognier grapes grown in Heathcote, south-west of Sydney, and

for themselves, according to Rubenstein. Which is, from a hotelier’s

the Burnt Orange Negroni features gin infused with house-charred

perspective, just as it should be.

orange. “We char them on the grill then infuse a batch of Negronis for a couple of days,” says Bjordal.

www.matilda159.com

IN A BITE Covers: 86 • Owner: Darren Rubenstein • Operator: Pickett & Co • Developer: Tallow Group • Architecture: Carr Design Group • Interior Design: Projects of Imagination • Graphic Design: Mash, Projects of Imagination • Executive Chef: Scott Pickett • Head Chef: Tim Young • Head Sommelier: Clint Fox • Venue Manager: Matthew Bjordal • Tableware: Andrei Davidoff • Cutlery: Fiddle Satin Vintage Cutlery, Roland Lannier • Glassware: Riedel

055

Peter Street Kitchen Radisson Blu Edwardian, Manchester

Words: Ben Thomas • Photography: Courtesy of Peter Street Kitchen

N

estled within the palazzo-style arches of

“Having explored contemporary Spanish and Italian at May

Manchester’s Free Trade Hall – formerly home

Fair Kitchen, Mexican and Peruvian at Leicester Square

to the Hallé Orchestra and the setting for iconic

Kitchen, and Peruvian and Italian at Monmouth Kitchen,

concerts by Bob Dylan, Pink Floyd and the Sex

we decided to offer contemporary Japanese and Mexican

Pistols – Peter Street Kitchen embraces the art of shared dining, fusing contemporary Japanese and Mexican small

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cuisine at Peter Street Kitchen.”

Taking charge of the interiors, Edwardian’s in-house

plates with the finest wines, sake and signature cocktails.

design team, led by Creative Director Rob Steul and Product

Forming part of a multimillion-pound investment into the

Design Manager Krishma Singh-Dear, paid considerable

263-room Radisson Blu Edwardian, the new restaurant has

attention to the location of the 125-cover restaurant,

been spearheaded by Edwardian Hotels London’s Food &

which replaces its predecessor Opus One in a prominent

Beverage Service Excellence Director Amir Jati – who spent

spot incorporating the building’s Grade II-listed façade.

ten years at the Robert De Niro co-owned Nobu before

With a vast and somewhat undefined space left over from

going on to mastermind the openings of May Fair Kitchen,

the previous restaurant, the team began by creating a

Leicester Square Kitchen and Monmouth Kitchen.

series of three principal zones; a heroic scaled bar, an

“Following the success of our London-based Kitchen

intimate circular dining area, and a relaxed lounge in the

restaurants, we wanted to introduce our dynamic concept

barrel-vaulted colonnade overlooking Peter Street. Each

of shared dining in the heart of Manchester,” Jati explains.

distinct in its approach, the areas offer a variety of tailored

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Blanched spinach salad with white goma dressing

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experiences, with menu-driven features such as shared bench tables,

due to open its doors in 2020. “As a result, we created a unified concept

intimate leather-clad booths and a hibachi-inspired fire-pit table. The

featuring a variety of dynamic drinking, socialising and dining spaces.”

latter forms part of The Hibachi Experience, seating guests within ‘The

and traditional flavours from both nations, with Japanese delicacies

allowing them to absorb the ambience of the kitchen.

cooked on a traditional hibachi charcoal brazier. From Mexico, colourful

Illuminating the space, dramatic mood and feature lighting in a

and piquant dishes include shredded crab with spicy ginger mayo

scheme devised by Lighting Design International (LDI) complements

tostadas; robata pisco-glazed smoked paprika ribs; and Mayan-spiced

stylish textures of natural woods, river stone and sleek steel, while the

marinated chicken ensalada with cashews, black lime and sesame oil.

historic carved stone arches and highly detailed plasterwork serve as a

Meanwhile, Japanese flavours come in the form of yellowtail sashimi

rich backdrop for furniture from Shanghai-based manufacturer Stellar

with spicy yuzu soy; chilli lemon roasted baby chicken served on a Peter

Works. In the rear of the bar, the uplighting of the sake barrels catches

Street Kitchen bincho grill; warm wagyu beef on Japanese flatbread with

the eye and creates a floating effect, while three custom rings designed

dried chilli and yuzu mayo; and the delectable king crab tempura with

by LDI in collaboration with Foundry London hang from the main

amazu ponzu, a menu highlight. Desserts also draw upon the tastes of

dining area’s high ceilings and fall centrally over tables beneath. Low

Japan, with signatures including the likes of the moreish chocolate bento

hanging pendants further balance decorative and architectural elements,

box with matcha white chocolate ice cream, and a Fuji apple crumble

highlighting the exterior arches of the façade and seamlessly linking

mousse with yuzu salt.

them with the modern new entrance of the hotel.

“The new restaurant and bar needed to serve the hotel guests, but

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On the menu, a selection of sharing plates champion contemporary

Kabe’ – a semi-private space affording diners some seclusion while

Complementing the culinary offering is an equally stylish bar and Rikyū lounge, both of which are located in the building’s original brick

also offer a premier dining destination in Manchester’s burgeoning

colonnades. Here, experimental beverages such as yuzu-flavoured sake

and varied restaurant scene,” notes Steul, who moved in-house from

are served up alongside a cocktail collection curated by award-winning

Woods Bagot to head up the development of The Londoner, Edwardian

bartender Dan Berger, whose work at The Ned, The Blind Pig and Social

Group’s new 350-room hotel and cinema complex in Leicester Square,

Eating House made him “the natural choice to work with” in the eyes

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Seabass sashimi flatbread

of Jati. Berger’s signature concoctions include the Sake Bellini, made

therefore decided to introduce a similar concept at Peter Street Kitchen

with white peach purée and sparkling sake, as well as the Fuji Miso Sour,

with our Rikyū Brunch, bringing the sounds, colours and flavours of

which combines Gran Centenario Plata tequila with mezcal, cherry,

Japan to Manchester.”

miso, lime, egg white and anise mist. The Cherry Smoke Negroni is

Aside from its polished interiors, exquisite menu and experimental

another popular choice, using Maestro Dobel Humito, a tequila that

cocktail selection, the service at Peter Street Kitchen is perhaps what

delivers robust and smoky elements alongside fruity and floral notes.

sets it apart. There’s no doubt that Edwardian’s intensive seven-week

The serve is infused with Amaro di Angostura to fortify its dark-

training period is paying dividends, with waiting staff immersing guests

chocolate notes, as well as Antica Formula and Campari bottled with

in Japanese and Mexican cooking, as well as the culture and etiquette of

cherry wood smoke.

both realms. As the fourth outing from the group’s collection of small-

To top it all, the fine-dining destination also organises a series of

plate-style in-house eateries, Peter Street Kitchen is most certainly

regular Rikyū brunches, featuring free-flowing Japanese-inspired

changing perceptions of fusion cuisine, cultivating a unique gastronomy

cocktails, small plates and live entertainment. For Jati, the introduction

Manchester never knew it needed.

of the programme follows the success of the Frida Weekend Brunch at

“The concept has proved enormously popular in London, with

Leicester Square Kitchen, where Pisco Sours and Margaritas are paired

Leicester Square Kitchen in the top five of both Peruvian and Mexican

with the flavours of Mexico in homage to famed artist Frida Kahlo:

restaurants,” Jati concludes. “We hope that Peter Street Kitchen will be a

“We noted that our guests were desiring something more experiential,

similar game-changer within Manchester’s booming restaurant scene.”

immersive and visual to share with their friends and family. Brunch is no longer just a meal; it is a chance to start your weekend in style. We

www.peterstreetkitchen.co.uk

IN A BITE Covers: 125 (seated), 250 (standing) • Owner / Operator: Edwardian Hotels London • Architecture and Interior Design: Edwardian Hotels London • Lighting Design: Lighting Design International, Foundry London

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Brasserie Lutetia Hotel Lutetia, Paris

Words: Emilee Tombs • Photography: © Richard Haughton (unless stated)

W

ith a history as distinguished as this, it may have been somewhat nerve-wracking for The Set Hotels to lift the curtain on Hotel Lutetia, which underwent no fewer than four years of renovations before its grand

reopening. “There were of course some locals who knew the hotel as it was who were initially wary of the changes,” admits Marine Servat, the property’s Public Relations Manager. “But today, it is overwhelmingly loved by all.”

Located in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the Rive Gauche, the original Lutetia was built by the same family that owned Le Bon Marché - Paris’ first shopping centre, which still sits opposite the hotel - as a place for the wealthy to stay during a spending spree in the capital. It later became a hub for the likes of André Gide, Alexandra David-Néel, James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, Picasso, Matisse and David Lynch among others.

Now a new name is attracting diners and hotel guests alike, and that is Gérald Passedat, Signature Chef of Brasserie Lutetia. Having

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worked as Head Chef at Marseille’s iconic triple-Michelin-starred

and interesting flavour combinations,” says Passedat. Dishes such as

restaurant Le Petit Nice for many years, Passedat has just brought his

Mediterranean tartare with almond oil and pepperwood, hot stone-

special talent for fish and seafood dishes to Paris. “Brasserie Lutetia is a

cooked langoustines, and Tarbouriech Spéciale oysters with a zingy aloe

new exercise for me, as with a writer who switches from writing novels

vera, cucumber and horseradish sauce. Desserts are understated, and

to plays,” says Passedat, “but my signature, my style and even most of

the best are selected on the day from the glass pastry cabinet, while the

my suppliers will nonetheless remain the same; it was one of my criteria

wine list offers a confident selection of 40 bottles from southern France

to work here that our produce be sourced from the Mediterranean Sea –

by way of Burgundy.

and in particular the Port de Sète – unless the weather prevents it.”

For the restaurant’s à la carte and tasting menus, Passedat had fun studying the hotel’s old menus, and has come up with something of a

Art Deco elements in an elegant scheme fit for contemporary dining.

fusion, blending the cooking at Le Petit Nice with his own interpretation

Invaluable assistance came from historical monuments architectural

of the classic Parisian bistro. Parmentier becomes octopus fisherman’s

firm Alain-Charles Perrot, and Atelier de Ricou, which helped to restore

pie, served in a cast-iron skillet, the top dusted with sweetly spiced

original period features such as the monochrome marble floors, and a

paprika; quenelles are made from shellfish while a wooden chopping

ceiling fresco previously hidden under layers of plaster and paintwork.

board arrives with neatly laid-out smoked fish, in lieu of charcuterie;

“With this fabled place, it was all about restoring the décor of the past

and Bouille Abaisse des Auffes is stylishly presented on glazed ceramics

by projecting it into the 21st century,” says Wilmotte. “1910 was the

from Montgolfier.

age of luxury transatlantic ocean liners: the idea here is to evoke the

There is also the raw bar to sample, for which Passedat was inspired

by New York City’s Grand Central Oyster Bar and the kaiseki counters of Japan. Here, guests can choose an upscale snacking service or a

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In terms of aesthetics, French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte has restored the brasserie’s legendary décor, combining Art Nouveau and

atmosphere aboard the grand yachts of old with the varnished wood along all the walkways, similar to the passageways in a boat.”

The varnished wood here is lacquered eucalyptus, a material typically

tasting menu devised by the chef on a daily basis. “What makes this

used on the decks of yachts, while marble bistro tables with banquettes

different from any other raw bar in the city are the cutting-edge dishes

the colour of setting plaster seem to be a nod to the Art Nouveau

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Bar Joséphine Photography: © Amit Geron

movement that permeates the rest of the hotel. Meanwhile, a double-

menu of the hotel’s Executive Chef Benjamin Brial under a skylight

height ceiling allows for a mezzanine and up to 200 covers, including a

decorated with Fabrice Hyber’s playful stained-glass mural, while

private dining space, and a patio offers an open-air space at the front of

L’Orangerie serves breakfast and brunch in an elegant, light-filled space

the building perfect for the summer months.

that spills out into the interior courtyard. Meanwhile, Bar Joséphine – so

There’s a convivial, laid-back ambience to the brasserie, encouraged

named for the artist Joséphine Baker, formerly a regular guest at the

by the presence of an inclusive open kitchen. As Passedat explains:

Lutetia – boasts an evening menu themed around the subject of travel

“Saint-Germain des Prés and the Rive Gauche have the feeling of a

with particular emphasis on Italian spirits thanks to mixologist Nicola

village that speaks to me as a provincial person, and I really want to

Battafarano, who uses house-made syrups to craft innovative cocktails.

transmit this feeling to my diners. The area and the hotel have a long

And last but not least, Bar Aristide has a cigar sommelier on hand to

history and association with the arts, music and literature, and these are

help smokers discover matching whiskies from around the world.

my passions too. It feels like my encounter with Lutetia was written in the stars.”

The brasserie is one of five F&B concepts at Hotel Lutetia, a property that has long been closely associated with bon vivants, and was once

Having undergone four years of renovations and 17,000 hours of manual labour, Hotel Lutetia certainly delivers a real wow factor to new guests upon arrival, but adding exciting F&B venues like Brasserie Lutetia to the mix ensures gourmands will want to return again and again.

even owned by the Taittinger champagne family. Le Saint Germain is an upscale dining destination where patrons can enjoy the French-Asian

www.hotellutetia.com

IN A BITE Covers: 200 • Owner: The Set Hotels • Architecture and Interior Design: Jean-Michel Wilmotte • Signature Chef: Gérald Passedat • Chef: Patrick Charvet • Brasserie Manager: Bertrand Fourtines • F&B Manager: Jérôme Legendre • Dinnerware: Bernardaud, Serax, Montgolfier • Serveware: BauscherHepp, Haviland • Cutlery: Christofle, Guy Degrenne • Glassware: Luigi Bormioli, Lehmann Glass • Table Decoration: Stéphane Chapelle • Table Linen: Garnier Thiébaut • Uniform Design: Gaspard Yurkievich

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Mollie’s Motel & Diner Buckland, UK

Words: Caroline Morrish • Photography: Courtesy of Soho House & Co

L

ondon, Hollywood, Berlin and… Swindon? This unassuming part of southern England is perhaps not the most obvious choice for the next opening from private members’ club operator Soho House & Co, but drive along the A420 from Swindon to Oxford and here is

where you’ll find its most recent launch.

Part of Quentin Restaurants – which oversees Soho House’s

standalone outlets such as Pizza East, Chicken Shop and Dirty Burger – Mollie’s is a classic all-American diner complete with drive-thru, general store and 79-key motel. The concept is a passion project for Soho House founder and CEO Nick Jones, who is said to have had his eye on reinventing the British roadside experience for many years. In fact, it was after regularly driving past the Buckland site on his way home that he decided this was just the spot for a new venture. Managing Director of Quentin Restaurants, Graham Hollinshead, explains: “When Nick brought the idea to us, we took a good look at the budget end of the hotel market and saw there was a real gap, and an opportunity for something well-priced but also very stylish.”

With the site already decided, an American-style diner felt like the natural approach for the roadside eatery, however in creating the look and feel, the Soho House design team were keen to avoid clichés or

067

Buttermilk fried chicken with chipotle mayo and ketchup

go down a heavily themed route. “We took the same approach that

sense in terms of logistics, as many of the favourite dishes already

to a certain era but not create something retro or naff,” continues

developed and being served at the group’s Chicken Shop and Dirty

Hollinshead. “For Mollie’s, we asked our designers, ‘if back in 1950 you

Burger outlets were a natural fit for the Mollie’s menu. The classic

knew then what you know now, what would you create and what would

double-bacon and pure-filth vegan burgers are top of the list, as is the

you use?’” Their response was a good-looking scheme that has the

signature Chicken Shop rotisserie chicken, which features free-range

style and class of a bygone era whilst also managing to feel timeless and

poultry from Castlemead Farm in Somerset, marinated for 24 hours and

welcoming, and where technology is central to the entire operation.

cooked sous-vide before being charred on a spit over coal, wood and

There’s a definite air of Soho House about the place, with its

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The diner concept not only felt right for the location, but also made

we employed at White City House, where we wanted to pay homage

gas fire. The group’s popular milkshakes also make an appearance, as

trademark warm wood across the walls and cladding much of the

do some alternative favourites. “We wanted to add some lighter dishes,

fixtures and fittings. Luxurious leather booths in teal run down the

so we have the Soho House classic avocado and poached eggs on toast

centre of the room, flanked by standalone tables and an open kitchen.

as well as fish and chicken cooked on the grill, and lots of plant-based

Here, chefs receive orders on a digital screen above the pass, sent from

options,” Hollinshead notes. “And a great steak was a must, but it had

the waiting staff’s handheld devices for maximum efficiency. High

to be under £25. So we found a brilliant local butcher, Pat Thomas in

stools at the counter have been specifically installed to give solo diners

Farringdon, and we have an outstanding 10oz rib-eye that we serve with

an easy spot to relax, whether they be overnight guests or travellers

crinkle-cut fries for £24.” An edited version of the full menu is available

stopping in for a meal, with plugs and USB ports coming as standard.

at the drive-thru, which focuses on burger and chicken meal-deals, as

“We are completely focused on the customer experience and wanted to

well as serving up ‘bargain’ breakfast baps.

make Mollie’s as accessible as possible,” says Hollinshead. “Everyone

The motel to the rear of the restaurant has 79 guestrooms set around

is welcome here, from families or businessmen to ladies who lunch or

a central courtyard and the general store, which replaces the traditional

construction workers. We want all our customers to feel comfortable and

lobby with a lounge, workspace and shop. Guests can book rooms via

have a great time.”

the Mollie’s app, which once installed on their smartphone acts as a

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Mollie’s chicken is marinated for 24 hours and cooked sous-vide before being charred on a spit over coal, wood and gas fire

keycard. The design of the rooms is purposefully pared-back whilst still

centres around the country and figuring out where makes geographical

retaining a feeling of comfort and light luxury, with the space working

and economic sense for us to be,” says Hollinshead. And, in true Soho

to a tight budget that translates to affordable rates of just £75 per night

House style, expansion plans are ambitious and accelerating fast. Work

(except for the larger bunk room).

is already progressing on the next site in Bristol, at Cribbs Causeway

Every element of the design and overall experience has been

off the M5, with a 125-cover restaurant and 170-key motel due to open

interrogated in order to get the maximum quality and service for the

at the end of 2019. The group has also bagged space at Manchester’s

customer, without raising costs. “We wanted to look at the offering

Old Granada Studios development, which although not a roadside

with fresh eyes, and not bring any legacy to it,” explains Hollinshead.

location, does boast a prime spot in the heart of the city centre. This

This has meant starting from scratch with the room design,

is a project that the team are particularly excited about: “When they

completely rethinking all the elements, stripping out any expensive

built the studios, the brief was to design it like a hotel, so the building

and unnecessary extras such as kettles and in-room telephones, and

could be repurposed if Coronation Street wasn’t a success,” concludes

reconfiguring the space to give the most comfortable experience. Any

Hollinshead. “So the set-up is perfect, it even has an integrated service

money saved has been spent where the team felt it mattered most – a

elevator.” This motel will have the same look and feel as other Mollie’s

rainforest shower and 49-inch Bluetooth TV in every room, plus the

but with some added extras, such as a rooftop pool and pizza bar. And

same top-quality Hypnos mattresses that are used in all Soho House

with ten other sites already earmarked around the UK, phase two of the

hotels, topped with Egyptian cotton linen.

Mollie’s roadside revolution is already well underway.

From the outset, Mollie’s has been developed as a brand that can be extensively rolled out. “We are looking at A-roads, motorways and city

www.molliesmotel.com

IN A BITE Covers: 110 • Owner / Operator: Soho House & Co, Quentin Restaurants • Interior Design: Soho House & Co • Group Executive Chef: Brian McGowan • Graphic Design and Branding: Soho House & Co

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SWEETS

Trends and insight into the global foodservice sector

“The Duchess’ culinary approach is embodied by the light and bright tomato and ricotta salad on its à la carte menu.”

SIGNATURE

Tomato and Ricotta Salad The Duchess W Amsterdam

Specialising in Nouveau-Niçoise Cuisine, The Duchess’

The Duchess is operated by The Entourage Group,

culinary approach is embodied by the light and bright

co-founded by Yossi Eliyahoo and Liran Wizman, and

tomato and ricotta salad on its à la carte menu. This

this immensely popular dish was created by Executive

refreshing new creation highlights the intense flavours

Chef Hariprasad Shetty. Other notable items on the menu

of the finest seasonal tomatoes, including varieties such

include baked scallop with mushrooms and hollandaise

as San Marzano, Kumato, Campari and Cherry, and is

sauce, duck breast with parsnip and hibiscus, and vanilla

served on custom-made plates with deep rims that draw

and cream pavlova.

attention to the vibrant colours on display.

Located in a spectacular former banking hall, the

The kitchen team begins by spooning smooth tomato

Michelin-starred restaurant designed by Baranowitz +

coulis, made from tomatoes, salt and garlic, onto the

Kronenberg represents a key part of the F&B offer at W

plate and drizzling with olive oil. Fresh and lightly

Amsterdam, which opened its doors in 2015.

charred tomatoes are then added in layers and topped with homemade ricotta and baby basil leaves to garnish.

www.the-duchess.com

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SIGNATURE

Cocoa Beans ‘Guatemalan Origin’ Epicure Le Bristol, Paris To celebrate 20 years spent overseeing Le Bristol’s fine-dining restaurant Epicure and its decade-long reign as a triple-Michelin-starred establishment, chef Eric Frechon has devised a nine-course menu filled with memorable signature dishes.

The gastronomic journey starts with caviar from Sologne, progresses through stuffed macaroni and Bresse farm hen poached in a bladder, before concluding with this gourmet dessert demonstrating the versatility of cocoa beans.

Created by Pastry Chef Julien Alvarez, the menu’s elaborate finale features cocoa nib nuggets caramelised with sea salt, roasted vanilla foam, Guatemalan cocoa nib ice cream, dried cocoa bean rind and caramelised cocoa nib powder. It is served on custom-made plates by Safran Paris and accompanied by stylish cutlery from Christofle’s Marly range, engraved especially for Le Bristol.

The dish is presented to diners beneath a transparent serving dome, coated with cocoa essence and filled with smoke to bring out the roasted and smoked vanilla spirit of the dessert. The result is a beautifully balanced ensemble, showcasing complex and unexpected flavours without ever straying into overly sweet territory.

Le Bristol, part of luxury hotel group Oetker Collection, is also home to Frechon’s Michelin-starred brasserie 114 Faubourg. www.oetkercollection.com

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SIPPING

Trends and insight into the global drinks trade

“We consider venues in our immediate area to be collaborators, not competitors.�

Sven Almenning, Managing Director of the Speakeasy Group

Photography: Š Champagne Bureau UK 078

SIPPING

Demystifying Vintage Champagne Non-vintage champagne is a mainstay of countless hotels, but stocking more vintage and multi-vintage options could add a whole new dimension to many wine lists.

Words: Richard Frost

H

ere at the House of Champagne in Épernay,

own 90% of the vines – along with 320 houses that

the self-styled Capital of Champagne,

collectively sell up to 70% of champagne volumes

you can’t help but be impressed by the

globally; all of which means that even the biggest

surroundings. Built in 1951, its façade is

houses must work together with small, independent

dominated by three bas-reliefs celebrating the

vineyards to source their grapes, and many of the

sparkling wines that have made this region famous;

deals are hammered out in this very building. The

the theme continues inside with fizz-focused

vast majority of these grapes are used to create

tapestries and paintings, as well as a futuristic

non-vintage champagnes, blends in which the fruits

tasting room that looks more like a forensic science

of that year’s harvest are combined with so-called

laboratory than a place to knock back bubbly.

reserve wines set aside from previous years to deliver

This is the home of Comité Champagne, the trade

a more consistent product. Occasionally, however,

association tasked with managing and defending the

the winemaker may decide to use these grapes to

interests of the region’s winegrowers and houses,

make vintage champagnes, a more exclusive product

located just a short walk from the front doors of

made from a single harvest and subject to longer

iconic names like Perrier Jouët, Moët & Chandon and

maturation requirements (three years rather than

Pol Roger over on Champagne Avenue.

the usual 15 months), which often commands a

“The sign on the façade reads House of Champagne and it means what it says,” reflects Philippe Wibrotte

significant price premium.

Of course, nobody knows better than Champagne

of Comité Champagne. “This building belongs to all

how to make money from wine. “We make 10% of all

of the winegrowers and houses here.” There are more

sparkling wine in the world by volume but 36% by

than 15,000 winegrowers across the region – small

value,” Wibrotte says proudly. “In 2017, we shipped

operations for the most part, which nevertheless

307 million bottles, generating a turnover of €4.9

079

”We make 10% of all sparkling wine in the world by volume but 36% by value.”

Philippe Wibrotte of Comité Champagne

billion.” Half of these bottles never make

than 25% of business, but sustained growth

in the commercial side of the business.

it outside France, while the other half are

under Renaud Cointreau has meant that today

The house sells to 55 countries – exports

exported to 190 countries around the world,

it sells one million bottles, with 55% exported.

account for 75% of trade – while prominent

including the big three markets of the UK,

Key international customers include illustrious

local customers include Michelin-starred

the US and Japan. Champagne’s global appeal

names like Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and

restaurants Les Berceaux in Épernay and Le

has long been helped by its reputation as the

The Savoy Grill in London, Oriole in Chicago,

Grand Cerf in Montchenot.

drink of celebration – served on its own, as

Burj Al Arab in Dubai and Cerulean Tower

an apéritif or alongside foods such as oyster,

Tokyu Hotel in Tokyo.

lobster and caviar, although adventurous

quality is truly exceptional. “With vintage,

sommeliers are increasingly finding success

pinot noir grapes rather than pinot meunier,

you can taste the harvest, the weather and

with more unusual pairings like red meat and

so it’s no surprise that the brand’s wines

the conditions,” enthuses Guillaume, whose

game bird too.

are characteristically fresh and fruity on the

boundless passion for the subject is evident as

palate. These champagnes typically also have

we chat in the winery. “You can tell the history

sparkling wines are in fact remarkably varied,

an unusually low dosage and are made without

of champagne through vintage.” This idea of

with winemakers able to put their individual

malolactic fermentation, an optional process

individuality is key to understanding what

stamp on countless parts of the production

between primary and secondary fermentation

makes vintage so special; back in his office,

process. Perhaps it’s worth looking at the

that helps convert tart green-apple flavours

Bruno eloquently sums up its appeal for the

key steps in that process before we go any

into buttery ones; as its thoughtful Cellar

hotel F&B market. “When you dine in a top

further. Almost all champagne is made from

Master Odilon de Varine-Bohan explains, “we

hotel restaurant, you can have any wine you

chardonnay, pinot noir and/or pinot meunier

want the malic acid because it keeps the wine

want,” he notes. “But vintage is a picture of a

grapes, and these raw materials must be

fresh – you won’t find buttery notes with us”.

great year in champagne, and each one pairs

grown within the champagne production

The house style makes its presence clearly

As Wibrotte is keen to point out, the region’s

well with different foods.”

zone, which encompasses 34,000 hectares of

felt in a tasting of Gosset’s vintage offering.

vineyards. Primary fermentation takes place

The new Grand Millésime 2012 is made up of

atmospheric cellar, complete with an

immediately after pressing, and the resulting

67% chardonnay and 33% pinot noir, with a

impressive wine library filled with old vintages

still wines are then carefully blended together,

brut dosage of 8g; it boasts mouthwatering

and rarities, it’s time to appreciate this picture

paving the way for a secondary fermentation

flavours of stone fruits with hints of pear and

for ourselves. Only 7,500 bottles of the Cuvée

to take place in the bottle, creating the famous

pink grapefruit that would work well as an

Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésimé

effervescence. Next, the bottles embark on a

apéritif, or paired with seafood and white fish.

2012 were made – in fact, the very first one

long period of maturation in the cellar, before

Meanwhile, the Celebris 2007 comprises 57%

takes pride of place in the library. A blend

the sediment is disgorged and a dosage is

chardonnay and 43% pinot noir, with an extra

of 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay, it

added; the dosage liqueur, a mixture of cane

brut dosage of just 3g; its balanced flavour

presents notes of brioche, butter and honey on

sugar and wine, helps determine whether the

profile combines crispness with notes of

the palate, complemented by good acidity and

champagne is classed as brut nature (less than

brioche from the extended maturation period,

length. The wine also benefits from significant

3g of sugar per litre), doux (more than 50g of

making it an excellent partner to everything

ageing potential, according to Guillaume, who

sugar), or something in between.

from oyster and langoustine to grilled sole and

believes that customers could easily cellar it

veal fillet.

“for ten to 20 years without problem”.

Over at the Épernay site of Gosset, the oldest wine house in Champagne, we find the

080

Gosset focuses on the chardonnay and

Charles Mignon only makes vintage in years where its winemaking team agrees that grape

Meanwhile, Charles Mignon, a family-

As we move onto Charles Mignon’s

Across the Champagne region, there are

perfect example of a well-respected brand with

owned house with a small-capacity winery in

some brands that market themselves by

a strong sense of its own identity. Founded

Épernay, focuses on blends combining purity,

referencing history and tradition, and others

in 1584, it has been owned by the ambitious

structure and finesse. The Mignon family come

that openly look to the future. Reims-based

Renaud Cointreau group since 1994. In the

from a long line of winegrowers; CEO Bruno

Jacquart, founded in 1964, falls squarely in the

early 1990s, Gosset sold less than half a million

Mignon represents the fifth generation, ably

latter camp, with a lifestyle-oriented approach

bottles per year and exports accounted for less

assisted by his son Guillaume, who specialises

built around ideas such as positive energy,

SIPPING

Photography: © Cyrille George Jerusalmi

Photography: © Horizon Bleu

081

SIPPING

”Vintage is a picture of a great year in champagne, and each one pairs well with different foods.”

Bruno Mignon of Charles Mignon

youthfulness and relaxed luxury, all of which are manifested in the aspirational content it shares on Instagram and Facebook.

“We have two target customers: existing consumers, who often tend to be older, and younger consumers who may drink less currently but will hopefully become regular buyers over time,” says Marie-Laure Trichard, Jacquart’s astute Global Marketing & Communication Director. “We’re also more accessible than some brands in terms of price, which opens up champagne to a broader range of social occasions.”

The wines embody this careful brand positioning, typically foregrounding chardonnay’s liveliness and minerality, rather than pinot meunier’s roundness, or pinot noir’s body and structure. It’s a style that certainly has plenty of admirers both at home and abroad, and 60% of production is exported; Jacquart’s high-profile customers include notable properties such as Georges Blanc near Lyon, Nobu London Old Park Lane, Lausanne Palace in Switzerland, Imperial Hotel Tokyo and Trump International Hotel in Washington DC. Chardonnay’s qualities are elegantly showcased in Jacquart’s Blanc de Blancs 2013, which has a low dosage of just 7g, and fruit-forward flavours of green apple and pear, zesty acidity and a smooth finish that pairs well with pan-fried scallops and white fish. Another noteworthy vintage is the Alpha Cuvée 2010, made from 60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir with Photography: © Fred Lahache

an exceptionally low dosage of 5g; this prestige cuvée delivers an abundance of elegant fruit flavours on the palate, a silky mouthfeel and an exceptionally long saline finish, which perfectly complements salmon tartare and langoustine.

Prestige cuvées are a particular speciality, as it happens, of Armand de Brignac, the luxury champagne brand owned

by American rapper Jay-Z since 2014. Although many staff members are based in New York, Armand de Brignac’s winemaking team is actually located here in the Montagne de Reims Regional Natural Park, and boasts impeccable oenological pedigree. That’s because Armand de Brignac is made for Jay-Z by the Cattier family, 13th generation winegrowers who first launched the brand in 2006. “Jay-Z tells them not to worry about the price of making the champagne, just to achieve the

082

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SIPPING

Photography: © Cyrille George Jerusalmi

highest quality possible,” explains Pierre-

counts a host of triple-Michelin-starred

on the palate, characteristics perfectly suited

Alexandre Dhainaut, the engaging Brand

establishments among its customers, including

to langoustine and sushi. Last but by no means

Ambassador for Armand de Brignac, as he

L’Assiette Champenoise in Reims, La Pergola in

least, the Demi Sec echoes the Brut Gold in

guides us around its historic chalk cellars. “To

Rome, The Restaurant at Meadowood in Napa

using 40% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay and

be given carte blanche to go out and make the

Valley, and Robuchon au Dôme in Hong Kong.

20% pinot meunier, and blending vintages

very best champagne imaginable is a wonderful opportunity for any winemaker.”

084

The Royal Champagne Hotel, a new 49-room

from 2009, 2010 and 2012, albeit with a

property near Épernay where Michelin-starred

much higher dosage of 33g. This additional

To help realise this vision, Armand de

Jean-Denis Rieubland acts as Executive Chef, is

sugar content brings distinctive elements of

Brignac adopts a multi-vintage approach,

also no stranger to Armand de Brignac, making

crystallised citrus fruits and even rich caramel

with each of its five-strong range made by

it the ideal spot for a private tasting. First up

to the table, opening up a far broader range

combining three separate vintages. It also uses

is the flagship Brut Gold, a blend of 40% pinot

of pairing options for sommeliers, not least

only the first portion of the press, malolactic

noir, 40% chardonnay and 20% pinot meunier,

lightly spiced dishes or baked desserts.

fermentation and a dosage comprising the

combining vintages from 2009, 2010 and 2012

finest base wine aged in new French oak for a

with a 9g dosage; it’s an excellent apéritif that

hotel’s bistro, to dine while gazing across

year, resulting in champagnes with a vibrantly

also works well with scallop and freshwater

Épernay’s rolling vineyards. It seems like a

fruity character, dairy and vanilla notes, a

fish thanks to the delicate interplay between

fitting place to reflect on the fact that last year

strikingly rich and velvety mouthfeel, and

citrus, honey and vanilla notes. The Blanc de

was an excellent one for the region’s growers,

exceptional cellaring potential. Only 100,000

Blancs in magnum format, by contrast, brings

according to Comité Champagne, paving the

bottles carrying the eye-catching Ace of Spades

together top-quality chardonnay vintages from

way for many winemakers to press ahead with

logo are produced each year, every one of

2005, 2006 and 2008. Less than 1,000 bottles

producing some extra-special 2018 vintages.

which is coated in metal and finished by hand

have been created of this quite exceptional

Hoteliers around the world can raise a toast to

with the application of French pewter labels,

champagne (“I’m very happy you are here, so

the fact that, on current evidence, the outlook

before receiving a final polish. It comes as

I can taste it,” jokes Dhainaut), which delivers

for vintage champagne has never looked

no surprise to learn that this exclusive brand

complex layers of honey, pineapple and apricot

brighter.

Tasting over, we retire to Le Bellevue, the

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Unlocking Sydney’s Potential As Sydney’s restrictive lock-out laws continue to hamper growth, hospitality professionals urge politicians to support the potentially lucrative night-time economy.

Words: Nina Caplan

SIPPING

S

ydney is a city with more natural gifts than almost any other: that harbour, the sunshine, and two of the world’s most recognisable tourist attractions in the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House – the latter two not natural exactly, but such fixtures that they seem to

be organic parts of the landscape. Plus the city has more settler history than anywhere else in Australia, and older buildings. According to recent research by Deloitte Access Economics, economic activity after dark is now worth over A$27 billion (US$19 billion) a year and supports more than 230,000 jobs. What is interesting is that, in Deloitte’s view, that figure could be A$16 billion higher.

The reasons, it was careful to say, are multiple, but hoteliers will have one particular culprit in mind: the city’s lock-out laws. In 2014, in response to several fatal incidents of alcohol-related violence, laws were brought in to restrict late-night drinking in the central city area. So, licenses are available until 3am but guests must be in situ by 12:30am.

Leave the premises, even to smoke a cigarette, and you can’t come back in.

Feelings about this are mixed and, certainly, standalone bars and restaurants have been worse affected than hotels, but many across the trade also balk at the restrictions and adverse publicity. Staff in the F&B sector told me off-the-record stories of hotel guests being prevented

Martinis at Blu Bar on 36, Shangri-La Hotel Sydney

SIPPING

The heritage-listed Marble Bar at Hilton Sydney Photography: © Mike Annese

from entering the restaurant internally after 1am, even though the

some great venues here,” he says, “and we, as an industry, keep doing

establishment’s licence ran until 3am. “Try explaining that to a guest,

our best to up our game and attract guests to our venues, but this

especially when the toilets were technically outside the venue in the

vibrancy exists despite the efforts of our political leaders, not thanks

lobby,” said one young woman who had worked in the restaurant of a

to them.” Perhaps this is a little unfair: Sydney’s Lord Mayor, Clover

major Sydney hotel brand.

Moore, is doing her best to support the city’s nightlife, “but the big

It isn’t all bad news, however. The intention behind the laws was to

changes we need for long-term growth in our night-time economy all

reduce violence and other antisocial late-night behaviour in the Central

depend on the New South Wales Government,” says her spokesperson.

Business District (CBD), and this goal seems to have been achieved.

“They include 24-hour public transport on Friday and Saturday nights;

Some say that the problems have simply been pushed to other parts of

replacing lifetime with renewable liquor licenses; and new measures to

the city, but the highest concentration of tourists (and hotels) is in the

manage venue growth and concentration, such as ‘saturation zone’ rules

CBD, so presumably what’s good for this area is good for the hospitality

that consider the number and type of licensed premises in a given area.”

sector. Moreover, certain outer areas have actually benefitted; last year,

Arguably, the main beneficiaries have been other Australian cities, in

Sofitel opened the south-west of the city’s first five-star hotel, The

particular Sydney’s eternal rival, Melbourne. The crop of small bars and

William Inglis, in Warwick Farm, and the funky boutique Collectionist

restaurants down tiny alleys off the main avenues, known as laneway

Hotel opened in Camperdown.

culture, has made Melbourne an exciting city of secrets; everyone has

Back in the CBD, late-night extensions are possible for those offering

been boosted by this dynamic environment, particularly the central

live entertainment, and various venues have reaped the rewards,

hotels that cater to tourists attracted by the growing number of

including the Hilton Sydney’s Marble Bar. Still, the knock-on effects

speakeasies, eateries and rooftop bars. Several, including the two-year-

worry many in the hotel F&B world. “To be honest, I don’t see anything

old QT Melbourne, have rooftop bars of their own.

positive about the lock-out laws,” says Sven Almenning, Managing

Sydney was just beginning to develop a similar laneway culture when

Director of the Speakeasy Group, which is behind The Kirketon Hotel’s

the lock-out laws were introduced, and the potential stifling of that

bar Eau de Vie. “They were the result of a knee-jerk reaction by the

culture worries those who make their living from tourism. Yet there are

government that was enforced without any consultation with the

still great bars in the city centre – Love, Tilly Devine, Small Bar, PS40 and

industry, and includes a series of illogical and irrational restrictions.”

many others – gaining renown with the help of various laneway tours,

Naturally, hotel guests want to stay in vibrant areas, but Almenning believes Sydney’s vitality has been adversely affected. “Sure, we have

088

Smokey Rob Roy at The Kirketon Hotel’s bar Eau de Vie

which pick tourists up from their hotel and show them secret bars, local food and historical nooks. These are vital add-ons to a hotel’s offering.

Something great is going to happen this year.

Stay tuned...

Maurizio Dante Filippi Miglior Sommelier AIS d’Italia 2016

SIPPING

Mandarin Dewdrop at West Hotel’s Solander Bar

“Hotel bars don’t exist in a vacuum,” says Almenning, who does not

an executive lounge open only to guests who stay in premium rooms,

consider such tours, or other bars generally, as a threat to business.

although a hotel spokesperson refused to comment on whether this

“Neighbouring venues help create a great atmosphere and a great

translation of a public space into a semi-private one has anything to do

community, and the stronger the vibrancy is around the hotel, the

with the lock-out laws. Elsewhere, the rooftop bar on the 36th floor of

more alluring it is for guests to stay there. We consider venues in our

the Shangri-La up near the Harbour Bridge still makes its fabulous views

immediate area to be collaborators, not competitors.” That this is a

available to all, and opens until 1am on Friday and Saturday nights, with

widely shared attitude becomes apparent when, say, you enquire about

last orders at midnight.

the opening hours for the bar of the Sydney Harbour Marriott Hotel at

Newtown Liquor Accord, introduced in 2015 in this inner suburb of

terrace is only licensed until then, before adding – unprompted – that

Sydney. It allows would-be late-night drinkers to book ahead if they are

“the Paragon Bar just down the road is open later”.

arriving after 3am – an option for guests staying in a hotel with a good

Of course, this is still a world-class city with significant

bar or restaurant. This might represent a way forward of sorts for the

representation from pretty much every major international hotel brand.

CBD – and, in fact, there is already some loosening of the laws, with

Hilton even opened the West Hotel, part of its Curio Collection, ten-

venues hosting live entertainment being granted an extra half hour.

minutes from the main hotel in hip Bangaroo last year. Others are taking

However, the resentment among F&B workers in the hotel business is

decidedly different tacks. The InterContinental, opposite the Botanical

very real – and that in itself can be a problem if the best employees

Gardens, can lay claim to some of the oldest settler history in Australia:

choose to go elsewhere.

not only are its pillars hewn from the stone of The Rocks, but it sits,

090

Those who see the value in some alcohol restrictions point to the

Circular Quay. Staff there tell me that it has to shut at 11pm because the

Sydney is still a major tourist draw and the cluster of hotels with

apparently, on the site of the country’s first vineyard, planted by Watkin

views of that magical harbour aren’t going away anytime soon. But

Tench in 1791. Guests can sift through the premium shops on the ground

there is hope among F&B professionals that those in charge will hear

floor while the rooftop bar on the 31st floor, with a 270-degree view of

their call to change the rules, helping this beautiful city unlock its true

the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, has recently been converted into

potential.

A

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SIPPING

Caffeine Fix Words: Richard Frost

Procuring the right coffee machine to suit the needs of a venue and its guests can provide a major boost to F&B revenues.

G

lobal appetite for coffee has never been more robust, with

premium filter coffee is less than ideal. It’s also important to establish

the extraordinary growth of companies like Starbucks, Costa

some other fundamentals at the outset, such as whether patrons will

and Caffè Nero perfectly illustrating the possibilities for

be serving themselves or waiting for highly trained staff to prepare

businesses capable of delivering high-quality caffeinated

beverages on their behalf, and how many cups per day are needed.

beverages on a consistent basis. These industry giants have been able

will be situated. A standalone unit prominently positioned in the

willingness to invest, setting aside significant resources to acquire the

lobby may necessitate very different functionality to a compact device

very latest coffee-making technology, rather than merely relying on

taking up valuable counter space in the kitchen, while one in full

outdated machines that are no longer fit for purpose. It’s a lesson that

view of patrons at the bar may require customisable components to

hotel professionals would do well to heed, since every coffee drinker

ensure its design is in harmony with the prevailing décor. Additionally,

who opts to leave the property for their next caffeine fix is a lost

management should decide if they would like the option to monitor sales

opportunity for management to generate greater revenues from F&B.

figures remotely, or roll out time-limited promotions to multiple sites at

Once management decides the time has come to upgrade a hotel’s coffee machine stock, what are the main issues that need to be

092

Another key consideration is to look at where new coffee machines

to stay ahead of the competition in no small part because of their

the touch of a button.

Without doubt, having the capacity to quickly serve up first-rate

considered? First and foremost, they must identify when customers

caffeinated beverages can really boost a property’s bottom line. F&B

actually want a brew, as what clients expect in a buffet breakfast

professionals who ignore the importance of procuring the very best

environment or on-the-go may be very different to what is demanded

coffee machines around risk losing custom to the big café chains, and

after a gourmet taster menu; only being able to offer espresso-based

missing out on lucrative growth opportunities as demand for coffee

beverages like cappuccinos and lattes when requests flood in for

soars across the globe.

When only the best is good enough

The new GIGA X8

Coffee pleasure – freshly ground, not capsuled 32 speciality coffees can be selected via the 4.3" ­touchscreen colour display 2 precision ceramic disc grinders with Automatic Grinder Adjustment (A.G.A.®) for consistently even grinding Speed function: Hot water bypass for perfect speciality coffees in record time plus added user convenience www.jura.com

Ideal areas of use: Hotel restaurants, bars, breakfast rooms, private function areas, hospitality venues Recommended maximum daily output: 200 cups JURA – If you love coffee

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Romano Fracino

A beautiful and highly functional device, the Romano elegantly combines classic curves and retro styling with contemporary materials and close attention to detail. Lustrous colours draw out the beauty of the highly polished stainless steel, while an extensive range of colours in satin or matt finish ensures the machine will coordinate with a variety of interior design aesthetics. The Romano is available with two or three coffee-making groups, enabling users to produce multiple drinks simultaneously, and also benefits from a large-capacity boiler. Meanwhile, microprocessor diagnostics provide management with valuable data on the number of coffees produced through each group. www.fracino.com

WE8 Jura

Compatible with whole or ground beans, the WE8 offers 12 different specialities at the touch of a button, from classic espressos to indulgent latte macchiatos. Its high-resolution colour touchscreen display allows users to customise their coffee as required, and individual preferences can be programmed with ease. Meanwhile, Jura’s patented Pulse Extraction Process pulses hot water through the grounds at short intervals, enabling maximum flavour to be extracted, and the Intelligent Water System automatically prevents limescale build-ups. The coffee machine can also be wirelessly operated via a smartphone or tablet using the Jura Coffee App. www.jura.com

1862 Premium Julius Meinl

This high-end coffee and machine concept is designed with top hotel and gastronomic settings in mind. The Aroma Fez hopper is divided into three separate chambers, each capable of holding 1kg of the exceptionally harmonious blend, and features an integrated microchip, allowing it to communicate directly with the grinder. Moreover, the grinder can also instantly relay key data to the portafilter machine, where water pressure and temperature are automatically controlled. The goal of all this state-ofthe-art technology is disarmingly simple: delivering a perfect cup of coffee time after time. www.meinlcoffee.com

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SIPPING

Premium Coffee Corner

5000 S+

Available in three versions, the Premium Coffee Corner selfservice concept is ideal for hotels looking to improve their onthe-go offering. It uses ground coffee beans and fresh milk to produce crowd-pleasing drinks such as cappuccinos and lattes to order, with customers able to make their selections using a large 32-inch touch display. This 24/7 device is designed for use with the Schaerer Coffee Link, a digital platform that enables management to check performance data, monitor consumption rates and identify peak times for usage, while it also boasts an impressively compact footprint, requiring only 1m2 of space in which to operate.

Premiering at Internorga in March 2019, the 5000 S+ boasts a compact design that makes it perfect for settings where space is at a premium. The left and right hoppers can hold up to 1.1kg of beans whereas the central one has a 700g capacity, while a hopper for topping or chocolate powder can take up to 2kg, and ground coffee can be added to the manual insert.

In addition to speciality coffee, it can also produce filter coffee, freshly brewed to a constant temperature, volume and flavour.

This high-output device is recommended for venues with an average daily requirement of 250 cups.

Schaerer

WMF

www.wmf-coffeemachines.com www.schaerer.com

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COCKTAILS

Zanzi Bar Brasserie Max Covent Garden Hotel, London

S

weet and aromatic with a luxuriously creamy mouthfeel, Zanzi Bar is one of the signature cocktails served up by the Brasserie Max team at Firmdale’s Covent Garden Hotel in

the Seven Dials area of London. Its delicate flavour profile pairs vanilla, one of Zanzibar’s most treasured spices, with almonds and orange notes to wonderful effect.

Created by Bar Manager Flavio Russo and Head Bartender Simone di Serio, Zanzi Bar is made from sarsaparilla-infused QuiQuiRiQui Matatlan Mezcal, orange curaçao, lemons, almond syrup and free-range egg whites. These ingredients are combined in a mixing glass and shaken twice, with ice added second time around, before fresh orange peel is squeezed over the cocktail to release its oils. The drink is served in an elegant coupe glass supplied by Urban Bar. Zanzi Bar forms part of Brasserie Max’s experimental new cocktail menu. The bar team spent nearly a year collecting ideas for the project, drawing inspiration from their travels and learning how different flavours and palates react, before working together to finalise the menu over a four-month period. Besides Zanzi Bar, the venue’s signature cocktail range also includes Silly Mid Wicket (Bombay Sapphire, St-Germain, rhubarb liqueur, pink grapefruit and basil) and Charlotte’s Place (Hendrick’s Gin, Bloomsbury Pastis, Noilly Prat, Drambuie and grapefruit bitters). www.firmdalehotels.com

C R E AT I V E D E S I G N L U X U RY H O S P I TA L I T Y horeca.lsa-international.com

Supper Magazine-Rum.indd 1

28/02/2019 12:08:29

COCKTAILS

The Gladiator’s Elixir P41 Bar & Coctelarium Hotel Arts Barcelona

T

he P41 Bar & Coctelarium at Hotel Arts Barcelona celebrates the city’s location on the 41st parallel north, and features drinks inspired by other destinations on the same latitude

like Porto, Rome, Istanbul, New York and Chicago. This GCA Architects-designed venue comprises the P41 Bar and a speakeasy-style area known as the Coctelarium, which gives Head Mixologist Diego Baud and his team space to host special events, masterclasses and VIP tastings.

The Gladiator’s Elixir references Rome, and specifically Ridley Scott’s movie Gladiator. This robust cocktail was created by PaulMarie Cras-Hatton, Bartender and Supervisor of P41 Bar, who reimagined the beverage that gave gladiators courage before contests and aided recovery after training. It comprises 35ml of sweet Vermouth del Professore Bianco, 30ml of smoky Vida Mezcal, 25ml of sour apple and lemon shrub, and 60ml of fresh hibiscus infusion, all mixed together and poured into a smoked ceramic cup; the sturdy drinking vessel is then presented on a stone base alongside a vivid garnish of dehydrated and candied hibiscus flower.

Other innovative cocktails developed by the P41 team include Tiramisú Martini (30ml of Brugal 1888, 15ml of Kahlúa Coffee Liqueur, 15ml of Strega Liqueur, 15ml of espresso, and 60ml of fresh custard cream) and My Heart Beats For You (60ml of Roku Gin, 45ml of organic beetroot juice, 22.5ml of ginger and patchouli syrup, and 22.5ml of yuzu and lemon juice).

www.hotelartsbarcelona.com

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COCKTAILS

Silver Medal Pulitzer’s Bar Pulitzer Amsterdam

S

ilver Medal forms part of a 12-strong cocktail menu at Pulitzer’s Bar honouring the remarkable life of author Ernest Hemingway. Created by Head Bartender Andrei Talapenscu,

the menu comprises three sections: A Farwell to Arms, paying tribute to his time in Italy during WWI; Lost Generation, reviving forgotten serves from his free-spirited days in 1920s Paris; and Old Man and the Sea, recalling his later years in Cuba.

Silver Medal was inspired by Hemingway’s actions in braving machine-gun fire to rescue an injured Italian soldier in 1918, despite already having sustained shrapnel wounds; this led to the American being awarded the Silver Medal of Valor by the Italian government. The cocktail is a twist on that classic Italian apéritif, the Americano, with bitter and sweet notes giving way to a markedly long finish. It involves pouring 35ml of Cocchi Americano, 35ml of Lillet Blanc, 10ml of Kina L’Avion D’Or, 50ml of tonic and 50ml of soda into a tall glass, adding ice cubes and stirring gently. A thin strip of carrot, stored with dry vermouth in a vacuum bag after being cut to size, is then inserted to garnish.

Hemingway famously won the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction in 1953 for his short novel The Old Man and the Sea. In a pleasing symmetry, the luxury hotel behind this latest celebration of his life was originally created by Peter Pulitzer, grandson of the prize’s founder. www.pulitzersbar.nl

Photography: © Sander Baks

COCKTAILS

White Butterfly Buddha-Bar Beach, Sugar Beach, Mauritius

A

n exotic blend of bubbles and flowers, White Butterfly is made by combining elderflower liquor, combava, pomegranate

juice and lemon; the fruity mixture is then topped with an eye-catching garnish comprising a colourful butterfly decoration, flowers and fresh strawberries. It’s one of many signature cocktails served in elegant Libbey glassware at Buddha-Bar Beach, the eagerly awaited new venue within the luxurious Sugar Beach resort in Mauritius.

This cocktail showcases the talents of BuddhaBar Worldwide Executive Bar Chef Matthias Giroud and the resort’s Beverage Manager David Boodhoo. Besides White Butterfly, patrons can choose from a series of innovative concoctions like #MojitoBBBeach (a special Buddha-Bar Beach rum mix with mint and grapefruit) and Make A Wish Mauritius (Mauritian rum paired with hibiscus, lemongrass, lime juice, passion fruit and ginger ale), as well as traditional cocktails, mocktails, sake, rum, whisky and other beverages.

Occupying an idyllic setting overlooking the sparkling waters of the Indian Ocean, BuddhaBar Beach combines bohemian chic and natural elements such as timber, water, sand, pebbles and palm trees with the glitz and glamour of iconic beach destination hangouts from the 1980s like Ibiza and Goa. www.sugarbeachresort.com

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GAMME JAVA

T: +852 2735 8671

|

E: info@wnk-hk.com

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DRINKS

106

Cordon Bleu Extra

No1 Botanicals Soda

Martell

No1 Botanicals

Launched as a tribute to Maison Martell’s iconic Cordon Bleu cognac,

Created especially for bars, restaurants and hotels, No1 Botanicals’

this Extra edition marks a respectful reinterpretation of a well-known

newly launched range of 200ml sodas boasts slightly higher

release, and an invitation to explore new dimensions of a classic. With

carbonation and more extract than the existing 330ml and 750ml

its smoothness attributed to the presence of a rare eaux-de-vie from

formats, delivering added fizz and flavour to mixological masterpieces.

the Small Borderies cru, the initial nose is characterised by notes of

Spanning basil, fennel, juniper, lemon verbena, meadowsweet, mint,

tarte tatin and cinnamon, with swirling hints of apricot, raisin, cashew

olive leaf, rosemary, sage and thyme, the ten sugar-free drinks contain

and almond emerging soon after. The round, mellow blend – best-

no artificial sweeteners or preservatives, making them a healthier

enjoyed neat or on the rocks – is elevated with a vivid undertone of

alternative to standard mixers. Also suited for standalone consumption

blackcurrant, and ends with a touch of candied orange peel for an

over ice, the sodas are available as single bottles or as part of a

elegant memory.

mixologist set featuring the entire cast.

www.martell.com

www.no1botanicals.com

International representative: HD Sheldon & Co., Inc Tel: 212-924-6920 E-Mail: sales@hdsheldon.com Web: www.hdsheldon.com

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DRINKS

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Grand Millésime 2012

15 Years XO

Gosset

Cognac Frapin

Composed of 67% chardonnay and 33% pinot noir with an 8g dosage,

Successfully marrying terroir and house spirit, Cognac Frapin’s 15

Gosset’s Grand Millésime 2012 is a crisp and expressive vintage

Years XO has emerged from the brand’s 240-hectare Grande

champagne characterised by upfront aromas of peach and pear. In

Champagne vineyard to present connoisseurs with bold notes of wood,

the mouth, its lively opening notes are followed up by a fine palate of

vanilla and spiced tea on the palate. An irresistible golden hue, the

stone fruits, damson and mirabelle plum, with added hints of mouth-

new recipe serves as a natural conclusion to the Trésors du Château

watering grapefruit. The lingering finish delivers a welcome burst

series, contrasting nostalgia for traditional distillery practices with a

of acidity meanwhile, leaving the palate eager for a second taste.

contemporary flavour profile – the choice to eschew the cold filtering

“Quality does not have to come with great age,” says Odilon de

process resulting in aromatic richness and a delicately balanced finish.

Varine, Gosset’s Cellar Master. “This is a fresh and elegant vintage in

Lively, charming and brilliant, it passes directly from barrel to bottle at

which chardonnay expresses itself fully.”

45.3% without any loss of potency or flavour.

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EVENTS Key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

Hotelex

HOFEX

Bar Convent Brooklyn

1-4 April 2019

7-10 May 2019

11-12 June 2019

Shanghai

Hong Kong

New York

Forty One Madison

National Restaurant Association Show

AHEAD Americas

2-5 April 2019

18-21 May 2019

18 June 2019

New York

Chicago

Miami

To The Table Europe

European Coffee, Tea & Soft Drinks Expo

Maison & Objet

9-11 April 2019

21-22 May 2019

6-10 September 2019

Monaco

London

Paris

To The Table MEA

World of Coffee

The Hotel Show

29 April - 1 May 2019

6-8 June 2019

17-19 September 2019

Abu Dhabi

Berlin

Dubai

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EVENTS NEWS Previews of key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

NRA Show

Bar Convent Brooklyn

18-21 May 2019 Chicago

11-12 June 2019 New York

Celebrating its centenary edition in 2019, the National Restaurant

With over 4,000 F&B professionals expected to descend on

Association Show has announced that several special events will

Brooklyn Expo Center in June, Bar Convent Brooklyn has now

take place at Chicago’s McCormick Park in May.

revealed details for its 2019 edition.

Bringing together hundreds of exhibitors, from chefs and

Sharing core tenets with its Berlin counterpart and providing a

mixologists to equipment manufacturers, tech specialists and

focused platform for the US market, the show will seek to connect

business leaders, the 2019 instalment will feature strands designed

bartenders, managers and owners from around the world with

especially for the 100th year, including ShowCentral, featuring

restaurants, distributors and international exhibitors including

interactive displays, interviews, demonstrations and research

Four Pillars Gin, Iichiko Shochu, 1806 Cognac, Marie Brizard and

exercises, and the Operator Answer Center, where experts will

High West Distillery.

share data and insight whilst taking audience questions.

112

Featuring showcases of categories from whisky, pisco and

Meanwhile, the Culinary Experience Center – where delegates

cachaça to no-ABV spirits, premium mixers and equipment, the

can learn the latest applied trends and techniques – will be joined

exhibition strand will be complemented by a series of talks, panels

by the Digital Media Slam, dedicated to navigating the industry’s

and speakers to foster the exchange of innovative ideas, best

digital landscape through quick-fire presentations highlighting

practices and business tips. This element will include the main

the unique approaches of those foodservice companies leading

stage – the educational heart of the show, with speakers set to be

the way. And taking place on 20 May, the trendsetting show’s

announced closer to the time – and a series of demonstrations,

centenary will be celebrated with a special party at the newly

keynotes and experiential spaces to immerse guests in the

opened Tao Chicago.

techniques, trends and products driving the industry forward.

www.nationalrestaurantshow.com

www.barconventbrooklyn.com

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EVENTS

Photography: © Jonathan Jacob Photography

Table 13-15 January 2019 London Table made a successful move to Olympia National in January 2019

market, the ideas behind several inspiring new concepts and the factors

following its well-received debut in the historic exhibition centre’s Pillar

underpinning emerging culinary trends.

Hall a year earlier. The luxury tableware presentation welcomed a number

Overall, Table proved to be an immensely popular part of international

of leading brands across the three days, with Alessi, Caverswall, David

lifestyle event Top Drawer, which gave more than 1,500 brands an

Mellor Design, Elia International, LSA International, Serax and Studio

invaluable opportunity to showcase their latest work to relevant hospitality

William all part of the line-up, while a new curated route known as the

professionals from the UK, Europe, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Japan, Australia,

Hospitality Trail helped signpost visitors towards relevant products.

New Zealand and elsewhere. Amongst those attending were representatives

One of the highlights of the show was the Design Talk seminar programme, which explored the latest industry trends and provided a

of AccorHotels, First Restaurant Group, Marco Pierre White Restaurants and Millennium Hotels.

forum for informative presentations; the engaging programme featured

Top Drawer is part of Clarion Events’ retail portfolio. The London-

contributions from several high-profile names, including: Constantina

headquartered event organiser is also behind the likes of Western

Tsoutsikou, Creative Director at HBA London; Jeremy Scarf, Managing

Foodservice & Hospitality Expo, Pulse, Coffee Fest, Home & Gift Buyers’

Director of Keane Brands; Hannah Carter Owers, Director at Universal

Festival, Seattle Gift Show, Philadelphia National Candy, Gift & Gourmet

Design Studio; Roz Barr, founder of Roz Barr Architects; James Roberts,

Show, Scotland’s Trade Fair and Scotland’s Speciality Food Show.

Creative Director at James Roberts Design; and Juliet Kinsman, founder of Bouteco. Meanwhile, Supper’s Consulting Editor Heleri Rande chaired

The next edition of Top Drawer is due to take place at Olympia London from 8-10 September 2019.

an in-depth discussion with James Hacon, Managing Director of Think Hospitality, about the future of food, looking at the state of the current

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www.topdrawer.co.uk

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EVENTS

AHEAD Global 28 January 2019 London and New York

The world’s top hotel F&B venues have been announced at AHEAD Global, the

debut US hotel project in such high regard, one which judges praised for the

international edition of Sleeper Media’s awards for hospitality experience

atmospheric ambience and the success in transforming an unremarkable

and design supported by founder partner Grohe. Revealed during a dual-

Holiday Inn into a chic Soho oasis.

format ceremony at Firmdale Hotels’ Ham Yard and Crosby Street properties

The bar, club or lounge category, meanwhile, saw the boldly designed

in London and New York respectively, Whiskey Room at Hotel Roomers

Whiskey Room at Hotel Roomers Munich take home the prize, with judges

Munich was named best bar, whilst Le Coucou at 11 Howard in Soho New

highlighting the uncompromising scheme by Concrete and the sense that

York took home the coveted Lasvit-designed statue for best restaurant.

guests could get lost in its deep red palette for hours. In one of the evening’s

Presented by Sleeper Editor-at-Large Guy Dittrich in London and Tara

most closely contested prizes, the space found itself up against projects

Mastrelli in New York, the events marked the culmination of a two-year

including Bali’s Akademi at Katamama – an architecturally intriguing space

cycle of heats across Europe, MEA, Asia and the Americas to determine the

comprising bar, lounge and mixology school – and Moxy Times Square’s

overall winners, with a panel of judges comprising designers, architects and

Magic Hour Rooftop Bar & Lounge, based around the idea of an urban

operators gathering to assess the experiential, aesthetic and commercial

amusement park for adults.

achievements of new projects around the globe.

Speaking of the night’s success, Awards Director Matt Turner commented:

With acclaimed restaurants ranging from Millie’s Lounge at the ever-

“AHEAD Global celebrates the past two years of our Awards for Hospitality

popular The Ned in London to Grosvenor House Dubai’s darkly seductive

Experience and Design, which has seen over 1,600 entries representing over

Rüya, Le Coucou fought off stiff competition, but emerged victorious thanks

600 hotel projects. I can’t begin to tell you how thrilled we’ve been with the

to a transformative design scheme by Roman + Williams. Accepting the

response we’ve had to AHEAD around the world.”

prize in London on their behalf, Space Copenhagen – the duo behind the hotel’s public spaces and guestrooms – thanked the crowd for holding their

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www.aheadawards.com

EVENTS

Photography: © Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Petra Welzel

Ambiente 8-12 February 2019 Frankfurt More than 136,000 trade visitors from 166 countries descended on Frankfurt

gifts to 11 companies celebrating key anniversaries at the show; Pillivuyt,

in February for trendsetting consumer goods show Ambiente. Following

KitchenAid, Fackelmann, Kaiser Backformen and Brabantia were among

in the footsteps of Denmark, France, Japan, the US, Italy, the UK and the

those to receive personalised cakes or bottles of champagne.

Netherlands, India was this year’s partner country, with Jaipur-based

“Here at Ambiente, we can still feel the hustle and bustle of world trade,

designer Ayush Kasliwal curating a presentation showcasing the nation’s

even if there are already quite a few signs of a downturn in the economic

traditional craftmanship, and Sandeep Sangaru, a multidisciplinary

outlook,” says Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe

designer from Bengaluru, creating a beautiful café with a subcontinent-

Frankfurt, the world’s biggest trade fair, convention and event organiser

inspired ambience.

with its own premises. “Using Ambiente as a trading hub, consumer

The show, which spans the dining, giving and living sectors, welcomed

goods manufacturers from the entire world target both local and regional

a total of 4,451 exhibitors drawn from 92 countries. Around 85% of all

markets. Here in February, therefore, the signals are set for the entire year,

exhibitors came from outside Germany, making Ambiente’s 2019 edition

2019 and beyond. This is impressively borne out by the number of orders

the most international yet. Among those taking part were high-profile

and the quality of both German and international buyers.”

names like Alessi, Georg Jensen, Nude, RAK Porcelain, Revol, Rosenthal,

Ambiente will return from 7-11 February 2020, with the dining area

Steelite, Stölzle Lausitz, Studio William, Tom Dixon, Toyo-Sasaki Glass,

expanding to include a dedicated hall level for exhibitors from the hotel,

Villeroy & Boch, Vista Alegre, WMF and Zieher.

restaurant and catering industry for the first time.

The busy exhibition was complemented by presentations from industry experts at the Ambiente Academy. Meanwhile, organisers gave surprise

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www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com

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Midway House, Huddersfield road, Meltham, HD9 4AF

Global Restaurant Investment Forum 25-27 February 2019 Amsterdam

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Twelve Photographic Services

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NH Collection Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky welcomed more

successes, profit-sharing model and dynamic-pricing policy.

than 350 investors, owners, operators and consultants to

Attendees were then split into two culinary tours visiting

Amsterdam for the sixth edition of the Global Restaurant

some of Amsterdam’s finest eateries, before reconvening at

Investment Forum (GRIF) organised by Bench Events, which

The Butcher Social Club for an evening networking reception

this year focused on the three pillars of evolution, disruption

against a stunning backdrop, namely the IJ River and the

and invention. Delegates from 43 countries descended on the

city’s bustling waterfront.

Dutch capital to network, discover innovative dining concepts

Day two featured a packed programme of guest speakers

and hear a stellar line-up of close to 90 speakers share their

in the hotel’s Grand Ballroom, interspersed with further

thoughts on hot topics like evaluating scalability, managing

networking opportunities in its spectacular 19th-century

international rollouts and implementing the latest foodtech.

Winter Garden. One of the highlights was a session looking

The opening day began with practical workshops exploring

at the revival of hotel dining, in which Michelin-starred chefs

franchising, restaurant marketing and sustainability, before

Jacob Jan Boerma and Chris Naylor discussed their respective

delegates were treated to a delicious lunch at Pesca, a nearby

experiences working with NH Hotel Group; the former

fish restaurant making waves thanks to its crowdfunding

stressed the importance of focusing on diners rather than

EVENTS

trying to impress Michelin inspectors at The White Room,

end hospitality company behind hotel restaurants in major

while the latter emphasised the benefits of being able to

European destinations like Amsterdam, Berlin, Hamburg,

run Restaurant Vermeer as a standalone business within NH

Ibiza and Munich; he discussed the importance of putting

Collection Barbizon Palace, although he did acknowledge that

a structure in place behind the scenes to ensure the guest

“there’s a certain safety net to being part of a hotel” when

experience at venues like Momo, Izakaya and Mr Porter

it comes to tapping into the property’s HR, maintenance and

never disappoints, saying: “One of the most difficult things

marketing expertise.

to achieve in the restaurant industry is consistency, but it’s

For many, however, the day’s most eagerly awaited session

also the most important.”

was a chance to hear from outspoken culinary legend Marco

Meanwhile, Raymond Blanc, Chef-Patron of Belmond

Pierre White, in conversation with Supper Consulting Editor

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, delivered an impassioned

Heleri Rande. He spoke candidly about everything from

speech calling on restaurateurs to embrace sustainable

realising the dream of countless chefs (“winning three

working practices. Blanc, who has served as President of the

Michelin stars was the most exciting journey of my life,

Sustainable Restaurant Association since 2012, argued that

retaining them was the most boring”) and hanging up his

taking simple steps such as reducing water consumption,

apron in 1999 to overseeing brands like Wheeler’s of St.

minimising waste, sourcing local produce, adding meat-free

James’s and Bardolino, and opening his new restaurant-with-

options and upgrading kitchen equipment can reap huge

rooms The English House in Singapore (“she’s like the most

rewards both financially and environmentally. To rousing

expensive mistress I’ve ever had”). With White’s reflections

applause, he urged those present to go green, concluding:

fresh in the memory, delegates then caught a special GRIF

“Collectively and individually, we can change the restaurant

tram over to an evening reception hosted by H Hospitality

industry for the better.”

at the new Neni Amsterdam, followed by a lively afterparty at Club NL.

The next edition of the flagship GRIF conference will take place in the Italian city of Parma in May 2020. In the

The third and final day provided lots more opportunities

meantime, GRIF Society members can stay ahead of the

to hear from influential figures in the restaurant world,

game by attending a series of targeted industry briefings and

including Big Mamma Group co-founder Victor Lugger,

networking opportunities in key markets like Ras Al Khaimah,

Drake & Morgan Managing Director Jillian MacLean and

Bangkok, London, Dubai and Riyadh.

Ginza Project CEO Maxim Polzikov. Among the speakers was Yossi Eliyahoo, founder of The Entourage Group, the high-

www.grif.com

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xxx

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EVENTS

Steelite UK: Rising Star Hotel Chef Competition 5 March 2019 London

The inaugural Steelite UK Rising Star Hotel Chef

“I’m so pleased to have won the competition,”

Competition has been won by Isaac Griffin,

said Griffin. “The process can be nerve-wracking,

the talented Chef de Partie at Hotel Indigo

but I kept composed to create a dish that I was

Manchester’s Mamucium restaurant, after a

happy with. I’ve never been to America before so

thrilling live final.

I’m really looking forward to the trip, it’ll be a

Created to recognise up-and-coming hotel

great experience.”

chefs aged 18-30 years old, the contest attracted

Alongside Griffin, the other competitors

more than 60 entries, with each initially

were Marv Umali (Cliveden Dining Room), Jean

submitting an image and recipe of their star

Christian Gras (Galvin at Windows) and Daniel

dish; the field was then whittled down to just

Radley (Hrishi). In appreciation of their efforts,

four contenders ahead of the crunch showdown

each finalist was awarded a voucher for a six-

at Avenue Cookery School in London. On the

piece Steelite dinner set of their choice. The

day, the finalists had 2.5 hours to produce four

judging panel comprised chefs Simon Hulstone

identical covers of a main course from a selection

and Asma Khan; Antonio Vigorito, Vice Chairman

of mystery ingredients, paying particular

of the F&B Managers Association of London; and

attention to flavour and presentation.

Richard Frost, Assistant Editor of Supper.

Griffin’s winning dish featured a delicious

“The quantity and quality of entries we

pan-fried chicken breast with crispy chicken

received was high and for our finalists to have

wing, accompanied by a creamy pancetta-and-

made it through was no easy task, they should be

white-kidney-bean ragù, potato pearls and

very proud of themselves,” said Kim Matienzo,

thyme-glazed carrots, served on a Steelite Willow

Vice President of Marketing at Steelite. “I’m

Deep-Rimmed Bowl. As well as being crowned

delighted to have seen the chefs out of their

Steelite UK’s Rising Star Hotel Chef 2019, Griffin

comfort zone and getting creative with their

won a three-night culinary experience for two to

dishes. It has definitely set the bar for the next

New York City – including a trip to the StarChefs

run, which we look forward to launching soon.”

International Chefs Congress – and £2,500 of Steelite product for his establishment.

www.steelite.com

123

MEA 2019 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 11/06/2018 09:53 Page 2

29 April – 1 May 2019 Rosewood Abu Dhabi

S

uppliers of restaurant, bar and banqueting equipment, furniture, lighting and menu items who are targeting MEA’s group-level hospitality decision makers, find TO THE TABLE MEA to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar.

Meet exclusively the most senior group-level heads hospitality, restaurants and bars for all properties in the MEA region, in one 5-star venue.

l Pre-selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and product display area.

l No stand build, no exhibition, just high-level 30-minute strategic meetings with MEA's top F&B industry leaders.

l Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with outstanding F&B, to cement your new relationships.

Efficient, targeted, and extremely cost effective!

For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

www.tothetableforums.com or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com

SIDES

Showcasing the products and services bringing F&B venues to life

“It’s important that we as uniform designers understand our clients’ heritage but, at the same time, are progressive and experiment with new ideas and techniques.”

Lois Hill, co-founder and Creative Director of The Uniform Studio

Dressed to the Nines As F&B operators look to create a more cohesive dining experience, uniform design becomes a key part of the narrative.

Words: Ben Thomas

SIDES

T

oday’s hotel guest expects a fluid F&B experience,

to décor, tableware to uniforms. If a venue falls down on

whether dining in a casual grab-and-go café or

any one of those elements, then they haven’t delivered.

a Michelin-starred restaurant. As a result, staff

We aim to interpret our clients’ brief correctly while also

uniforms are becoming a key part of the narrative,

understanding their vision. Brand integrity is at stake, so

not only ensuring chefs are safe from the hazards of the

it’s our job to design and deliver a product that ticks all the

kitchen but also serving to cultivate a strong brand identity

boxes and stands the test of time.”

that complements an establishment’s design scheme, culinary offering and service.

Uniform designers have embraced the rise in

Underlining the breadth of its capabilities, the firm is currently working on two five-star hotels with very contrasting briefs, one looking for classic tailored attire,

expectations, partnering with operators, interior designers,

the other taking a more fashion-conscious approach.

F&B consultants and chefs to develop bespoke narratives

Furthermore, the studio was recently tasked with designing

through luxury fabrics, personalised stitching and varying outfit styles. From heritage-based garments to high fashion get-ups, anything goes, so long as it ticks the functionality boxes, though a fusion of smart and casual has proved particularly popular in recent times thanks to its adaptability from informal to formal and morning to night.

“It’s so important for staff to wear a uniform, as they have a significant impact on first impressions and immediately say something about a brand,” says Chris Meeten, co-founder of London-based manufacturer The Uniform Studio. “Front-of-house staff are the face of a restaurant or hotel, so it’s crucial that they communicate the right message. It’s also important that employees feel proud to be part of a team, collectively promoting the specific style and identity of an establishment.”

Working closely with its clients – around half of which are hotels – the studio aims to reflect narrative textures through uniform fabrics, something Meeten believes enriches the look and feel of a restaurant: “Customers are seeking out an all-encompassing stylistic, textural experience where all areas meet expectation, from food

SIDES

The Uniform Studio balances form and function in the creation of its staff uniforms

the apparel at The Electric House, a private members’ club and diner

pastry chef and chocolatier Pierre Hermé. Remaining stateside,

on Notting Hill’s Portobello Road, operated by its longstanding partner

LA-based agency Finery is renowned for elevating the functional,

Soho House Group. Here, uniforms blend modern tailoring with

demonstrating that utility and style can go seam in seam. The duo

structured suiting techniques, mixing relaxed fabrics such as chambrays,

behind the company, Min Young Lee and Greg Sato, set out with three

canvases and cotton twills. For Lois Hill, co-founder and Creative

distinct objectives: style, function and durability. This allows them to

Director of The Uniform Studio, even the smallest detail can make the

balance what may previously have been competing priorities, and has

difference in hospitality projects, whether it’s the shape of a neckline

paid dividends at properties for both Line Hotels and Rosewood.

or the choice of fabric: “We try to create a balance between form and

British designer Oliver Harvey focus on leather goods. Dutch Deluxes has

aim is to respond to every brief with versatility and ingenuity.”

a range of full grain leather aprons, garments and pouches that easily

Adopting a similarly rigorous approach is tailoring specialist Studio

cope with the rigours of a hectic kitchen, while Oliver Harvey’s latest

104, which has collaborated with the likes of The Savoy, Gleneagles and

collection highlights the versatility of the material – widely used within

The Dorchester, providing a bespoke uniform service with a creative

restaurants because of its resistance to dry abrasions, water, chemicals,

twist. When outfitting staff at The Savoy’s American Bar, the firm

dust and fungal attacks - in a way that appeals to chefs and waiting staff

channelled a 60s vibe, producing slick, fitted suits characterised by a

looking for greater protection and breathability.

monochrome palette. Amongst the uniforms, a white jacket nods to the

Increasingly, uniform designers are reinforcing culinary narratives

bar’s heritage, while shift dresses for the cocktail waitresses are inspired

through well-conceived threads, and there is no doubting the fact that

by the venue’s use of mirrors, and feature a diamond jacquard trim.

client expectations are on the rise, with social media platforms fuelling

Translating the architecture and interior design of properties into

128

Meanwhile, Netherlands-based manufacturer Dutch Deluxes and

function, and with hotels becoming increasingly image conscious, our

aesthetic competition and elevating standards across the industry. In

modern, sophisticated vestments for hospitality staffers, Lady and

turn, F&B operators are demanding they be much more involved in the

Butler – the brainchild of Barcelona-born fashion designer Eli Caner,

design process, taking cues from on-trend looks and styles to develop

who runs the firm from New York City – applies runway-worthy designs

tailored garments that enhance the all-important guest experience.

to uniforms in order to complement the overall creative direction. “I

For Hill, the industry must continue to evolve: “It’s important that we

think of uniform as a dialogue between the space, the staff and the

as uniform designers understand our clients’ heritage but, at the same

customer,” says Caner, whose work at The Standard in Miami and The

time, are progressive and experiment with new ideas and techniques. We

Hollywood Roosevelt in LA has since caught the attention of celebrated

must move things forward and keep things fresh.”

HOFEX19 Ad_236x275mmH_EN_HR.pdf

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11:35 AM

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is now Launched www.HOFEX.com/reg/

PETITS FOURS

Playground

Tafelstern

Tafelstern’s Playground series comprises bowls in a selection of shades, shapes and patterns, including the Black Amber model; a piece of stoneware that features a sprinkling of gold metallic hints. Crafted from fine noble china, the coupe plates, pourers and bowls create subtle accents against dark backdrops and can be combined with the brand’s Eatery series, as well as the new industrial-style Delight cups and black clay Stella plates. www.tafelstern.com

131

Envisio Bonna

Joining a family of ten designs in the Envisio series, Bonna’s organic Vago tableware eschews traditional round and square dining shapes to embrace elements of casual dining. Created specifically for the horeca industry, the porcelain range forms part of the brand’s wider ivory white collection, and is offered with various personalisation details. The free form yet stackable plates marry amicably with vibrant interior decors. www.bonna.com.tr

132

PETITS FOURS

Atica

Catene

Spanish porcelain manufacturer Pordamsa has introduced Atica, an organic tableware collection combining style and functionality, which offers chefs a chance to explore playful food presentations on its concave surfaces. Taking inspiration from Ancient Greece, the series is handcrafted in coloured glass paste and boasts a smooth feel with excellent scratch resistance, making it ideally suited to use in professional kitchens and high-flow environments.

Sleek and contemporary, the Catene range from Richard Ginori features modern geometric lines and interwoven chains that shape its graphic frame. Inspired by Italian architect Gio Ponti and his drawings from 1926, the fine china series is defined by the purity of the Impero shape, and complements interior furnishings with its sophisticated aesthetics. The collection comes with a complete array of tableware, with each piece suitable for serving both tea and coffee.

www.pordamsa.com

www.tablo.hk

Ultralight

Charcoal Dapple

Billed as the lightest wine-tasting glasses ever made, Zafferano’s Ultralight range is the result of a project by Italian creative Federico de Majo, who wanted to make an extremely nimble glassware series with a unique lip edge that facilitates the flow of the beverage within. Made from fine crystal glass, the collection pays special attention to shapes and sinuous lines, and is designed to house an impressive variety of different white, red and sparkling wines.

Joining an established family of designs, Charcaol Dapple by Steelite International adds a new dynamic through the use of a black reactive decoration, creating a bold statement that provides chefs with a platform from which to amplify food presentations. Working in harmony with each of the brand’s other decorated and white tableware ranges, the plating options are complemented with a beverage offer, and allow for seasonal menu changes to be made with ease.

www.tablo.hk

www.steelite.com

Pordamsa

Zafferano

Richard Ginori

Steelite International

133

Audrey

Edge

The Audrey series from Pintinox combines functionality and elegance, with each piece conveying a sense of comfort in the hand while offering the feeling of holding a precious object. Joining the brand’s Millenium, Settecento and Liberty flatware ranges, the new stainless-steel collection comprises a fork that is soft to the mouth, a knife that cuts naturally and effortlessly, and a stylish spoon featuring fluid, soft and extended lines.

Characterised by a slanted profile and produced using one-piece construction with laser treatment to the rims, Rona’s Edge collection features lightweight, angular and defined glasses with tapered bowls and long slender stems that accentuate a contemporary style. Crafted from barium crystalline, the Slovakian glassmaker’s latest range comprises a champagne flute, burgundy and bordeaux models, and a carafe that allows wine to oxidise properly.

www.tablo.hk

www.rona.sk

Pintinox

134

Rona

PETITS FOURS

Excelsior

Rum

Manufactured in Germany, Dibbern’s Excelsior collection comprises porcelain tableware and layered crystal glassware, the latter handblown with an intricate linear effect for a subtle tactile experience. The elegant porcelain plates, meanwhile, are crafted from fine bone china and feature fine lines along their edges, working in harmony with the glassware to elevate food and beverage presentations – whether that be informal dishes or high-end cuisine.

LSA International’s Rum series consists of mouth-blown glasses with thick, conical stems and rounded bowls that enhance the aroma of the spirit. The barware collection spans an assortment of shapes for mixing all kinds of cocktails, from the classic mojito and daiquiri to colourful rum punches, as well as a tasting glass for observing the colour and clarity of each fine quality serve, and a cigar ashtray inspired by Havana rum bars.

www.dibbern.de

www.lsa-international.com

Sitello

Pax

WMF’s Sitello collection comprises a total of 21 cutlery pieces, each of which features a hammered finish and delicately worked accents that create a unique set of characteristics without disrupting the balanced lines of the traditional rounded handles. The gentle feathering of the contemporary finish establishes a harmonious connection between the spoon and the knife, while the hammering structure adds a sense of tactility that further enhances the culinary experience.

Figgjo has added three new pieces to its Pax range: a 70cl bowl, a rectangular 30cm x 13cm plate and a round 24cm plate. Characterised by soft lines and curves that finish with a distinctive bevelled edge, the tableware series is available in colours such as olive, grey and beige, as well as the brand’s signature white glaze. The earthy colours emphasise the collection’s design – a synthesis of function and simplicity that caters to both shared and traditional dining concepts.

www.wmf-professional.com

www.figgjo.com

Dibbern

WMF Professional

LSA International

Figgjo

135

Drift

Robert Welch Designs The latest addition to Robert Welch’s Drift range is an all-new coffee series, epitomised by the same flowing curves as the wider collection. The hollowware series comprises both one- and two-litre coffee pots, as well as jugs, sugar jars, trays and a pair of water pitchers.

Another key piece is the canapé stand; a miniature version of the collection’s cake stand, it presents a different shape from each viewing angle. www.robertwelch.com

136

PETITS FOURS

137

Solid

Commercial Kitchen Design

Zieher’s Solid range comprises a cutting board made from fine-end grain walnut wood, as well as stacking rings and bowls featuring a grooved top for varying levels of presentation. The milled groove of the cutting board serves as both a juice groove and receptacle for multiple glass cloches, crafted from either hand-blown glass or an organically shaped borosilicate glass to protect and stage food at once.

The sister company of Concept Bars, Modo Commercial Kitchen Design was formed nine years ago to complement the bar design services of Concept and provide a full front- and back-of-house solution. Working with leading figures in the catering equipment market, the commercial kitchen design house and distributor has supplied to an eclectic mix of clients including Radisson Blu Edwardian, Deltic Group and Center Parcs.

www.zieher.com

www.modo-ckd.com

Bar Design

Pekoë

Concept Bars collaborates with leading architects, designers and operators from across the hospitality industry, working as consultants, specialist installers and full fit-out contractors to supply bar systems throughout new hotels, restaurants and nightclubs. Besides its range of bar services, the Yorkshire-based firm is also a specialist in building bespoke bar refrigeration cabinets, as well as wine displays and tasting rooms.

Developed in collaboration with French designer Lucas Frank, Revol’s new Pekoë tea set comprises jugs, sugar jars and bowls alongside plates and teapots. Inspired by the gourmet aesthetics of French tea drinking as well as the pure lines of Asian tradition, the series is characterised by a deceptively functional fin motif – a heat dissipator that takes cues from the fans of LED lamps and allows diners to hold the handleless cup with ease.

Zieher

Concept Bars

www.concept-bars.com

Modo

Revol

www.revol-pro.com

138

PETITS FOURS

Bella

Ora Tableware

Developed in collaboration with bar and mixology professionals, the new Bella collection from John Jenkins is made in two different colours – Bella Bianca and Bella Blue. Handmade by European craftsmen, the series features spiral trails of the two shades, both of which make reference to the skies of spring and summer. Each unique in its design, the glasses provide bartenders with a selection of tools to create classic cocktails and bespoke martinis.

Designed by London-based Levien Studios for Sango Hospitality, the Ora Tableware collection – taking its name from the word ‘beach’ in Latin – is inspired by the shape of sea-washed pebbles and features a highalumina creamy white body, vitreous stoneware in four glaze colours and a selection of wooden accessories. Ora adds to Sango Hospitality’s wider range of ceramics and acacia woodware, which it produces using its factories in Indonesia.

www.johnjenkins.co.uk

www.sango-hospitality.com

Universal

Alto

Joining Stölzle Lausitz’s variety of beverage-serving glassware, the new Universal carafes are restrained in their waist-length design and feature slender silhouettes. Ranging in volume from 4cl to 50cl, with the addition of 100ml and 250ml models, the series completes the brand’s spectrum of machine-blown carafes alongside the Purity and Pisa collections, and is suitable for housing water and fruit juices as well as inventive apéritifs and wine.

Craster’s Alto buffet collection comprises a range of plinths and boards that create a multi-height display. Available in walnut, the Scandinavianinspired series features a tripod base in black metal and subtle chamfer details, and is suitable for informal presentations such as breakfast pastries as well as more formal displays like high tea. The signature piece of the collection, a threetier cake stand, can be used as a singular focal point or grouped for a tiered effect.

John Jenkins

Stölzle Lausitz

www.stoelzle-lausitz.com

Sango Hospitality

Craster

www.craster.com

139

Aura

Retro

Created by Figgjo’s in-house designer Erik Lindberg, the Aura collection consists of two plates in dualistic sizes – a 27.5cm main dish plate and a smaller 19.5cm option for lighter dishes. Drawing inspiration from the simple and solid forms of ancient archetypal tableware, as well as the geometry of natural stones, the range’s characteristic design creates an illusion of the plates floating above the surface, while its soft edges and cylindrical look produce a sense of delicacy.

Expanding on the existing shapes of its Retro range, Urban Bar has introduced the Coley Coupe – its own take on the classic Nick & Nora glass. Made from premium lead-free crystal, the cocktail glasses both serve 17cl to the brim, and are available in a variety of finishes including the vintage-inspired 1910 and 1920 patterns, as well as a sparkling gold rim version. Echoing the brand’s commitment to both quality and functionality, the new lines provide sophistication to a selection of serves.

www.figgjo.com

www.urbanbar.com

1862 Premium

T-Collection

The new 1862 Premium coffee machine from Julius Meinl features a three-chambered Aroma Fez hopper, with each chamber holding 1kg of the blend. The system’s integrated microchip also allows it to communicate with the grinder – which can be fitted with an automatic tamper to guarantee that every portafilter is completely ready for coffee preparation – while the correct water pressure and temperature are automatically and continuously controlled too.

Tiger’s T-Collection cold display features an innovative modern design with an acrylic cover, which can be combined with the brand’s existing grey ash wood or acrylic lucite trays by adding cold packs, a tray and a dome cover. The display joins a range of induction chafing dishes, buffet risers, juice dispensers, and cereal dispensers within the T-Collection – originally launched by Tiger in 2018.

Figgjo

Julius Meinl

www.meinlcoffee.com

Urban Bar

Tiger

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

140

PETITS FOURS

Stem Zero

Gamme Java

Nude has introduced Stem Zero, a range of stemware made using ionshielding technology. Comprising 11 glasses, each designed to enhance different wines, the series features champagne flutes, sensuously shaped aromatic models and full-bodied versions with larger bowls. There are distinct glasses for red wine with generous bowls, sweeping brims and tapered crystal edges to fully capture elegant aromas and amplify hightone perfumes.

WNK’s Gamme Java collection has been designed by fine porcelain specialists Alain and Dominique Vavro, and takes inspiration from the rounded lines of Baguette – a classic flatware range used by the brand for over a century. Made from polished 18/10 stainless steel with a mirror finish, the series comprises 22 elegantly shaped pieces including table and dessert cutlery, while a gourmet spoon, fish knife and fish fork extend the offer alongside serving items such as a soup ladle and cake server.

www.nudeglass.com

www.wnk-hk.com

Bombay

Marlène – Hommage Aux Femmes

Comprising bowls, centrepieces and vases in numerous shapes and sizes, the Bombay series from IVV is mouth-blown and hand-decorated with metal resins, each of which is delicately applied to create a unique texture featuring thousands of parallel lines. The collection’s ovoid shapes decorate interiors with a balance between tradition and modernity, while its soft and natural profiles are iridescent and luminous when brought together with metallic reflections.

Developed in collaboration with bartender and author Charles Schumann, Zwiesel 1872’s Marlène – Hommage Aux Femmes glassware range combines grace and refinement with high functionality. The nine-piece bar collection, handcrafted from fine crystal glass, also expresses an appreciation for femininity, balancing lightness and elegance. Across its Zwiesel 1872 and Schott Zwiesel brands, Zwiesel Kristallglas offers branding, glassware and a worldwide distribution network.

www.tablo.hk

www.zwiesel-1872.com

Nude

IVV

WNK

Zwiesel 1872

141

Whatcom Gas Vertical Rotisserie

Fino

Using its ten spit locations, Wood Stone’s Whatcom Gas Vertical Rotisserie can cook a large variety of foods including ribs, fish and vegetables simultaneously, without the risk of exchanging flavours and crosscontamination. The rotisserie comes as standard with a tempered glass front door, enabling the cooking process to be fully visible to chefs and customers alike, while it is also available with an optional rear access glass door or as a countertop unit.

Combining traditional Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge design, the Fino series by Toyo-Sasaki comprises a stackable glass that makes use of platinum hard strong tempered glass across its overall surface to achieve maximum durability. With an elegant and light-in-the-hand design, the glass features a thin and smooth top, as well as a large but simple mouth design, and is intended for use across a variety of modern dining scenes.

www.woodstone-corp.com

www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp

Pro Series Juicer

Rotisserie Oven

The Pro Series Juicer from Sunkist Growers features a small footprint at just 28cm tall and 20cm in diameter, but is engineered to extract ten gallons of juice per hour using a high torque direct-drive motor. Manufactured in the US, the juicer offers quick and easy cleaning with three lift-off dishwasher safe parts. The Sunkist Sectionizer Jr, which can be used for wedging, slicing, coring or halving fruits and vegetables into uniform pieces, has also been launched.

Alto-Shaam’s Rotisserie Oven features a self-cleaning cycle, automatic grease collection system and programmable, touchscreen controls.

The system also offers a large cooking capacity, while a series of new innovations enable it to use a fifth less energy during the cooking process and more than a third less water when cleaning. Operators can place the rotisserie on stands and counters thanks to its aesthetic design, or configure it with a companion holding cabinet or second rotisserie oven.

www.sunkistequipment.com

www.alto-shaam.com

Wood Stone Corporation

Sunkist Growers

142

Toyo-Sasaki

Alto-Shaam

PETITS FOURS

Thomas Keller Signature

Bradford Alan

Cangshan Cutlery’s Thomas Keller Signature collection uses sharp, bold angles to create a focus on the silhouette and minimalism of the knife’s design. Slim, sleek and well-balanced, each knife is forged from Swedish Damasteel RWL34 Powdered Steel – a fine-grained, high-alloy metal known for its edge strength, hardness and corrosion resistance. The internal structure of the steel also gives the knives edge retention without creating the brittleness commonly associated with harder steels.

Creating menu designs, packaging and decorative volumes for hospitality projects, All Book Covers’ service takes into consideration the existing identity of spaces and schemes to generate relevant and visually compelling ephemera in a variety of styles. Having previously collaborated with Jean-Georges Steakhouse, Art Basel and Continental, All Book Covers offers stylish options including blind deboss on urethane, three-colour embroidery and gloss UV silk screens.

www.cangshancutlery.com

www.abc-portfolio.com

Fresh Filtered Coffee

Idol Chafers

Designed for its WMF 1500 S+ and WMF 5000 S+ automatic speciality machines, WMF’s Fresh Filtered Coffee technology is making it possible to produce both coffee specialities and fresh filtered coffee using a single machine. The technology is based on a bean-to-cup brewing cycle, prompting each machine to start by freshly grinding and brewing a café crème or espresso, before filtering it in a patented filter capsule and dispensing it without any sediment or oils to ensure an aromatic taste.

Walco’s Idol Chafers feature self-closing, vented glass lids that prevent food presentations from drying out, as well as magnetic steel clad bottoms that ensure thorough heating when used during banqueting services. Available in round and rectangular models, the chafing dishes come with a removable body that can be placed on an induction table for added versatility, and join Walco’s wider buffet range comprising dispensers, a sauce warmer and several urns.

www.wmf-coffeemachines.com

www.walcostainless.com

Cangshan Cutlery

WMF Group

All Book Covers

Walco

143

BAR CONVENT B R O O K LY N

The International Bar and Beverage Trade Show Returns to Brooklyn, NY June 11 & 12, 2019 Brooklyn Expo Center

For more info and tickets visit: BARCONVENTBROOKLYN.COM

Presenting Sponsors:

Industry Supporter:

ADVERTISING INDEX

Alto-Shaam 113

Peter Spanton

Bar Convent Brooklyn

144

Pordamsa 019

Big Green Egg

129

Revol 021

Bonna 063

Robert Welch

085

148

Bradford Alan

070

Rona 089

Cangshan Cutlery

002

Schaerer 147

Champagne Gosset

010

Steelite

Cognac Frapin

022

Stellar Works

004 & 005 097

119

Stölzle 065

Craster 110

Sunkist 107

Dibbern 029

Tablo 117

Dometic 075

Tafelstern 037

Fracino 097

Tiger

Figgjo 017

To The Table - Europe 2019

038

Fredman Professional Kitchen

To The Table - MEA 2019

124

Concept Bars

115

008 & 009

HEPP 045

Toyo-Sasaki 047

Hofex 130

Tradecraft 091

John Jenkins

041

Urban Bar

Julius Meinl

073

Walco 109

103

095

Jura 093

WMF Coffee Machines

Libbey 043

WNK 105

LSA 099

Wood Stone Corporation

014

World of Coffee

076

No1 Botanicals

083

Nude 031

Zieher 013

Perrier-Jouët

Zwiesel Kristallglas

006 & 007

101

145

THE WASHING UP

Photography: © Mark Weeks

A Suite Setup for Vegans

How can hotels remain relevant to the ever-growing number of vegans worldwide? Step forward Hilton London Bankside, a 292-room hotel just round the corner from Tate Modern, which has embraced contemporary lifestyle trends by teaming up with multisensory design studio Bompas & Parr to launch what it claims is the world’s first vegan suite.

Every part of the guest experience has been reimagined at this completely refurbished suite, right down to the keycard made from Piñatex, a leather

Hilton London Bankside claims a world first with its new suite designed for the most dedicated vegan guest.

substitute produced from pineapple-leaf fibres. Once inside, visitors can lounge about on Piñatex pouffes, or dash off postcards at the writing desk, which contains notepads and pens with no animal traces in the paper or ink.

If they get peckish, the minibar is stocked with vegan treats like Graze Protein Power snacks, Deliciously Ella energy balls and Nakd fruit-andnut bars, while the newly redesigned in-room dining menu features potato hash, grilled portobello mushrooms and scrambled Quorn for breakfast, or cucumber salad, cauliflower steak and five-bean dhal later in the day. Guests can then rest their weary heads on pillows made from buckwheat hulls, natural kapok, millet husks, bamboo or cluster polyester.

The Vegan Society worked closely with the team on the trailblazing suite’s design, and spokesperson Danielle Saunders says it is thrilled to see the concept come to life. The only question now is, will vegan travellers ever want to venture beyond this plant-based paradise?

146

BRITISH DESIGN SINCE 1955

HOSPITALITY BY DESIGN

For more information or samples contact us.

Email: hospitality@rober twelch.com Telephone: +44 (0)1386 840880

robertwelch.com/hospitality