THEO »Connexion«
THEO »Tension« ←
THEO »Connexion«
A WAY OF SEEING Barton Perreira approaches eyewear as the most personal expression of design, a frame through which the world is seen and the individual is revealed. Defined by proportion, balance, and precision, each silhouette is designed to complement the face without overtaking it. Architectural acetates bring depth and character, while ultralight titanium offers clarity and restraint. Handcrafted in Japan, every contour, bevel, and finish reflects the unmistakable touch of the artisan. Light, shadow, line, and gesture reveal what endures: a distinct silhouette, an individual point of view, and the quiet confidence of something made exceptionally well. More than a frame, Barton Perreira is a way of seeing, and being seen.
BARTONPERREIRA.COM
FRAME: LAMARR
same ground – the ground doesn’t move just because the world does. SILMO PARIS // 25 – 28 SEPTEMBER 2026 PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE // HALL 7 C272
mod.
J O L LY P R E M I U M B O L D
D e s i g n e d
b y
E N Z O
S o p r a c o l l e
R E T R O
A R T I S A N
E Y E W E A R
S I N C E
1 9 6 2
mod.
MONDO PREMIUM B O L D
D e s i g n e d
b y
E N Z O
S o p r a c o l l e
R E T R O
A R T I S A N
E Y E W E A R
S I N C E
1 9 6 2
M AY B A C H - E Y E W E A R . C O M
@TALLAEYEWEAR | FRÉQUENCE NEW COLLECTION
TALLAEYEWEAR.COM | SILMO BOOTH G127
EDITOR IN CHIEF STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne [Cologne] ] dongus@spectr-magazine.com M: +49.(0)151.14271817
LAYOUT CARO ROSS [Cologne [Cologne] ]
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR
ross@spectr-magazine.com
EDITORIAL STAFF LINDA KRIEG [Cologne [Cologne] ]
»2332/47«
l.krieg@spectr-magazine.com HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne [Cologne] ] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com
“Off Script” (pages 66 – 72)
PROOFREADING PETER ASHFORD [London [London] ] INSA MUTH [Dortmund [Dortmund] ]
ONLINE EDITOR CARO ROSS [Cologne [Cologne] ] ross@spectr-magazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS & PRODUCERS JOANA CLARO [Berlin [Berlin] ] MERT DÜRÜMOGLU [Essen [Essen] ] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin [Berlin] ] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich [Munich] ]
IMPRINT
DAVOR JELUSIC [Barcelona [Barcelona] ] ESTELLE KLAWITTER [Dusseldorf [Dusseldorf] ] YULIA PLAKHOTNIKOVA [Barcelona [Barcelona] ] NOCERA & FERRI [London [London] ] FLORIAN RENNER [London [London] ] THOMAS SCHMIDT [Hamburg [Hamburg] ] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf [Dusseldorf] ] OLIVER SPIES [Munich [Munich] ] TANJA TREMEL [Berlin [Berlin] ]
PUBLISHER MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH KAMEKESTRASSE 20-22 50672 COLOGNE, GERMANY photography : FLORIAN RENNER
T: +49.(0)221.945267-20 F: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com
CEOS STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK
PRINT F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH HOLZHAUSER FELD 2 83361 KIENBERG, GERMANY fw-medien.de
COVER photography : YULIA PLAKHOTNIKOVA [Barcelona] styling : DAVOR JELUSIC hair & make-up : MARIA NEPRIAKHINA models : RUBY at TWO MANAGEMENT BARCELONA & HUGO at UNIKO MODELS eyewear : theo
SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.
50 THE CITY CODE
62 DITA LANCIER
64 ROLF: THE PERFECT FIT
66 OFF SCRRIPT
TINTED LENSES – THE ART OF WEARING SUNGLASSES
PURPOSE IN MOTION
THE NEW ADAPTIVE TEMPLE TIP
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR BY FLORIAN RENNER
BY YULIA PLAKHOTNIKOVA
74 ETNIA BARCELONA X TXEMA YESTE WHEN COLOR TAKES CENTER STAGE
78 DARK MATTER OPTICAL FRAMES WITH ARCHITECTURAL APPEAL BY SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER
88 THEO: LES PLEINS ET LES VIDES PRESENCE THROUGH ABSENCE
96 INTO THE SEASON 2026 TREND SPECIAL BY NOCERA & FERRI & ULRICH HARTMANN
BY YULIA PLAKHOTNIKOVA
116 CHROMATIC FEMINITY
128 FLAIR
130 LOOK LAMINA
THE ART OF BEING LIGHT
FLOATING LIGHTNESS – WHERE WATER MEETS METAL
A GEOMETRY OF LIGHT AND COLOR
BY SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER
BY TANJA TREMEL
136 BRIDGES WE CROSS A STUDY OF MODERN METAL FRAMES BY THOMAS SCHMIDT
146 REIZ: TIMELESS BY DESIGN
150 THE MANY FACES OF LUXURY
160 EYEFLY
THREE DECADES OF INDEPENDENT EYEWEAR DESIGN
DE RIGO: FIVE BRANDS. FIVE PERSPECTIVES
164 SPLASH FORWARD
176 EINSTOFFEN BEHIND THE LENS
180 OWP: DESIGNED FOR CHARACTER
182 BEYOND VELOCITY
SWIMWEAR LEAVES THE BEACH. EYEWEAR TAKES THE LEAD .
ABOUT VISUAL LANGUAGE, AI AND ATTITUDE
THE POWER OF COLOR, PERSONALITY AND DESIGN
PERFORMANCE BECOMES STYLE
THE SOUND OF SMART EYEWEAR
BY ULRICH HARTMANN
162 LOOK SPORT UTILITY BUILT FOR PERFORMANCE. DESIGNED FOR EVERYDAY STYLE.
BY MERT DÜRÜMOGLU
BY ESTELLE KLAWITTER
46
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194 BRILLENHAUS TOERSCHEN
198 A PRIMERA VISTA
A VISION OF THEIR OWN
THE REAL FRONT ROW: BARCELONA
200 IN FULL BLOOM A CONTEMPORARY PORTRAIT OF FEMININE EYEWEA BY OLIVER SPIES
WEL COME TO #48 THE VALUE OF IDENTITY Staying True While Embracing Change
Building a strong brand today is a demanding task. A brand must continue to evolve without losing its identity. New materials, emerging technologies and a constantly shifting zeitgeist all call for innovation. At the same time, there is a growing desire for guidance – for brands with character, a clear position and an unmistakable signature. At a time when trends emerge faster than ever and disappear just as quickly, identity has become a value in its own right. It creates trust, recognition and relevance. A strong brand DNA is not a rigid set of rules, but a compass. It provides direction while forms, materials and ideas continue to evolve. The most compelling brands understand this tension. They embrace the new without
photo : SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER
becoming arbitrary. They reinterpret their
48
design codes, explore innovative technologies and respond to social change – not by following every trend, but by consistently continuing their own story. Yet this responsibility does not lie with brands alone. It begins equally with the independent optician. Their role today extends far beyond simply selling eyewear. They are curators – of brands, design languages and SPECTR // EDITORIAL
LOOK »10996« “LOOK LAMINA” (pages 130 – 134)
stories. Every collection they introduce into their assortment helps define the profile of their business and communicates a clear point of view to their customers. A convincing portfolio is therefore not created by offering as many brands as possible, but by making the right selection. Brands whose identities complement the optician’s own. Brands that appeal to different target groups while still sharing a common philosophy. Thoughtful curation creates more than a selection of products – it provides orientation. And in an increasingly complex and interchangeable product landscape, that sense of orientation represents genuine added value. Identity is not a static state. It is the ability to change without losing sight of who you are. This applies to brands, as well as to the people who select, curate and bring them to life with conviction. The collections featured in this issue demonstrate just how many different forms identity can take. They continue to evolve without denying their origins. They prove that innovation is not at odds with continuity, but can grow directly from it. With this in mind, we hope you enjoy discovering our latest issue.
S.D.
PUNCHLINE by Anne & Valentin eyewear Model WELLJOB
WWW.ANNEETVALENTIN.COM FIND US HERE : @ANNEETVALENTIN.COM
NIRVAN JAVAN »Shades of Milan 10« jacket ZARA dress H&M
THE CITY CODE
TINTED LENSES – THE ART OF WEARING SUNGLASSES
50
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
EINSTOFFEN »Keyaki« jacket ZARA
photography
YULIA PLAKHOTNIKOVA [Barcelona]
styling : DAVOR JELUSIC hair & make-up : OLGA GARKOVICH models : MASHA at TAKE3MGMT & CAROL at FRANCINA MANAGEMENT
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
51
INVU »IB22701B« tie TOM FORD shirt CLOSED polo shirt BENETTON
52
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
INVU »IB22722A« blazer MANGO shirt ZARA tie DIESEL pants WILLY CHAVARRIA
Between clean architecture, urban rhythm, and precise tailoring, a visual world of timeless modernity unfolds. The City Code translates the aesthetics of international luxury fashion into a fashion shoot that effortlessly combines restraint, elegance, and contemporary eyewear design. Photographer Yulia Plakhotnikova and stylist Davor Jelusic embrace a calm, assured visual language in which every detail has its place. Monochrome looks, statement outerwear, and finely balanced silhouettes set the stage for a curated selection of current sunglasses. Expressive acetate frames meet delicate metal styles, bold shapes are paired with subtly tinted lenses. The diversity of the designs reflects the distinct signatures of CAZAL, EINSTOFFEN, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR, INVU, I-SPAX, KADOR, KALEOS, NEUBAU, NIRVAN JAVAN, and OWP, bringing
them together in one cohesive visual composition. Rather than relying on bold staging, The City Code focuses on precision and atmosphere. The city becomes the backdrop for a modern fashion aesthetic in which sunglasses are not treated as mere accessories, but as an integral part of a considered look. Restrained, international, and shaped by a refined understanding of contemporary luxury fashion imagery.
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53
CAZAL »MOD 9116« coat JNBY dress DESIGUAL
54
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KALEOS »Crassus« top MASSIMO DUTTI
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55
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »HE- RS01« top COS
56
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NEUBAU »Brit ta« blazer SONIA CARRASCO shirt EIKŌ AI
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
57
KADOR »Onda 1« dress ZARA
58
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OWP »1490« dress PARFOIS
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
59
I-SPAX »Kalle« top ARKET
60
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photography : DITA
Distilling Performance Into Pure Luxury
DITA LANCIER: PURPOSE IN MOTION While DITA stands for uncompromising
complexity and an almost obsessive attention to luxurious detail, DITA Lancier takes a different approach: reduction. Every element is questioned until only what truly matters for performance, comfort and durability remains. The result is eyewear that never demands attention, but almost disappears during everyday wear: precisely engineered, perfectly balanced and created for people who are constantly on the move. 62
S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
Made in Japan and available in titanium or acetate, each frame combines an ultralightweight construction with a clean, functional design language. Considered details such as non-slip nose pads, the Anti-Walk hinge and specially developed temples ensure that the wearer’s focus remains exactly where it belongs: on the moment, not on the eyewear. The lenses follow the same philosophy. Depending on the intended environment, DITA Lancier offers specialized lens systems
for land, water and alpine conditions. Hydrophobic, oleophobic and scratch-resistant, they combine high-performance optics with reduced reflections and precise color and contrast reproduction to deliver optimal vision without compromising comfort.
DITA Lancier interprets performance not
as a loud statement, but as effortless precision. Inspired by disciplines such as tennis, golf, skiing and motorsports, the collection combines technical excellence with the relaxed elegance of California. Reduced to the essentials and created for a life in motion. dita.com
S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
63
ROLF: THE PERFECT FIT
MADE BY ROLF
The production of every wooden frame begins with carefully selected veneers. The pre-bent layers of wood are milled with the highest precision before being sanded, sealed, and finished by hand. Particular attention is paid to the continuous grain, which gives each frame its harmonious and individual appearance. The construction is complemented by the patented, screwless FlexLock hinge. The lenses are secured using a fine nylon filament, allowing the front to remain completely intact. The result is a durable frame in which natural materials, artisanal craftsmanship, and technical innovation come together in perfect harmony.
The New Adaptive Temple Tip ROLF »Pantera«
photos : RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
»Superbird«
64
S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
Flexible, adjustable temple tip made from plant-based material vs. classic wooden temple.
The FlexLock hinge. Screwless perfection – proven over many years.
Some innovations only become apparent at second glance – yet still make a decisive difference to the wearing experience. This is exactly the approach ROLF takes with its new »Pantera« model. While retaining the characteristic aesthetic of the wooden frame, one of the most important elements for wearing comfort receives a carefully considered update: the temple tip. For the first time, ROLF equips a wooden eyewear frame with a plant-based, flexibly adjustable temple tip. Manufactured from a castor bean-based material using the brand’s proprietary biopolymer engineering process, the new construction offers enhanced possibilities for precise, individual fitting. MORE FREEDOM IN THE FIT
Wooden eyewear has a distinctive feel, natural warmth, and an unmistakable grain. At the same time, the material naturally requires a different approach to adjustment than acetate or metal. With the new temple tip, ROLF addresses precisely this challenge.
A direct comparison with the equally new »Superbird« demonstrates just how subtle this development is. The models differ in the construc-
The plant-based material is lightweight, flexible, and durable. This
tion of their temples. While the »Superbird« features the proven woo-
allows the rear section of the temple to be adjusted more precisely to
den temple, the »Pantera« represents the next stage of development
the shape of the head and the wearer’s individual anatomy. Opticians
with its flexible temple tip.
gain greater freedom during fitting, while customers benefit from a more personalized fit and additional wearing comfort.
The idea behind the innovation becomes particularly clear when the two models are viewed side by side: ROLF is not replacing the established wooden temple but expanding its wood collection with
INNOVATION, HARMONIOUSLY INTEGRATED
an additional option for individual requirements. The »Superbird«
On the »Pantera«, the new temple tip does not appear like a technical
represents the classic version with wooden temples, while the
element added as an afterthought. Its color and shape have been
»Pantera« adds an innovative combination of materials and even
carefully coordinated so that it blends harmoniously into the frame’s
greater flexibility during fitting.
natural design language. The character of the wooden frame remains fully intact – complemented by a functional component that creates new adjustment possibilities.
A small change at the end of the temple – with a noticeable effect on the fit of the entire frame. rolf-spectacles.com S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
65
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »368R«
Off »2385«
66
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
»HE3001«
»2366«
Script
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR photography
FLORIAN RENNER [London]
styling : TOM O’DELL [all looks STYLIST’S OWN @ODELLSSTUDIOS] grooming : KATIE BEVERIDGE make-up : NEUSA NEVES models : WISDOM at NEXT MODELS LONDON, RAAD AL GABRIL at SUPA MODELS, BEN GRAFTON at SUPA MODELS, ZARA at WILHELMINA MODELS SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
67
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2373«
Timeless Horn Eyewear
Not every story begins in a fashion capital. Some begin in places where time is still understood as a raw material. For almost five decades, eyewear has been created in Germany’s volcanic Eifel region whose greatest luxury lies in the way it is made. HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is one of those brands that has
never needed to be loud to remain memorable. While the industry regularly chases the next trend, the manufactory from the Vulkaneifel has chosen something far more demanding: consistency. Since 1978, it has been producing frames from natural horn, each completed in around 280 individual steps by hand. Every piece is unique – not because individuality happens to be in demand, but because nature allows for no alternative.
68
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
Natural horn is one of the most fascinating materials in eyewear. No two structures are alike, every shade develops organically and each surface acquires its own character over time. The material offers more than 500 natural color variations, yet no finished frame is ever identical to another. That is precisely where its appeal lies: perfection without perfectionism.
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »HE3001«
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
69
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2332/47«
»2385«
70
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HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2366«
The fact that HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is now worn in more than 50 countries, while every frame is still produced entirely in the company’s own German manufactory, feels almost anachronistic – in the best possible sense. Here, innovation does not mean replacing tradition, but developing it further. From ultra-thin horn frames featuring the patented Triplex Horn® safety core to contemporary silhouettes of surprising lightness, craftsmanship and technology do not compete with one another. They work together.
»333«
For the next chapter of this story, selected seasonal highlights leave the quiet Eifel region behind and make their way to London. Photographer Florian Renner presents the collection through a compelling juxtaposition: classic tailoring meets modern silhouettes and progressive cuts. It is a compelling contrast: while the world is in a state of constant change, the frames express the exact opposite – calm, permanence and a confidence that allows trends to come and go. Perhaps that is the true luxury promise of HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR. Not to move faster than everyone else,
but to remain composed enough to follow its own path with unwavering consistency. And, almost incidentally, to prove that good design does not need a timestamp. hoffmann-eyewear.com
»368R«
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2392«
72
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Mod. JF 3160 & JF 316 1 - JF RE Y.F R
photography : TXEMA YESTE
When Color Takes Center Stage
ETNIA BARCELONA x TXEMA YESTE
74
S P E C T R / / C A M PA I G N AWA R D
With its new FW26 campaign, ETNIA BARCELONA once again proves that color is far more than a design element for the brand. Created in collaboration with renowned photographer and visual artist Txema Yeste, the campaign presents a visual world that reaches far beyond conventional product photography – making it a worthy winner of the
SPECTR Campaign Award in this issue. What makes the campaign so distinctive is its balance of fashion photography and product presentation. Powerful color gradients, an intense interplay of light and shadow, and sculptural styling create emotional images with an unmistakable identity. Yet the frames never fade into the background. On the contrary, they remain the visual anchor of every composition, naturally integrating into the campaign’s artistic vision. The use of color is particularly compelling. It guides the eye directly toward the eyewear. Transparent materials, luminous backgrounds, and bold contrasts allow the frames and faces to merge into a harmonious whole. The campaign captures precisely the creative energy for which ETNIA BARCELONA has long been known.
S P E C T R / / C A M PA I G N AWA R D
75
The featured FW26 collection follows the same approach. Expressive color combinations, diverse materials, and distinctive shapes underline the brand’s commitment to creating eyewear as an expression of personal individuality – for women, men, and unisex styles alike. The campaign stands out for its exceptional visual language, consistent color direction, and successful combination of editorial aesthetics and product focus. Artfully composed – yet in every image, the eyewear remains the undeniable focal point. etniabarcelona.com
76
S P E C T R / / C A M PA I G N AWA R D
METROPOLITAN »8403« -
hat MIUMIU gloves HERMÉS top NOISY MAY pants & socks ADIDAS shoes THURSDAY BOOT CO.
DAR MAT 78
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METROPOLITAN »8402«
RK ATTER -
top DRYKORN skirt JOOP!
Optical Frames with Architectural Appeal
photography
SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich]
styling : JANINE BRAUN hair & make-up : NATALIE REXYGEL models : LAURA LUNDGREEN at M4 MODELS & NATHALY Q. at LOUISA MODELS
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
79
EINSTOFFEN »Æv yn« -
cap VANS top RIANI pants ADIDAS
80
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Clean lines, striking silhouettes and an urban backdrop: for this shoot, photographer Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter transforms a street setting in Munich into a stage for contemporary eyewear design. The modern styling works seamlessly with expressive optical frames in dark colorways and bold square shapes. Two models with distinct personalities bring additional energy to the looks and highlight the versatility of the collections. The focus is on current optical frames from BLACKFIN, CUTLER AND GROSS, EINSTOFFEN, ETNIA BARCELONA, HOFFMANN
ETNIA BARCELONA
NATURAL EYEWEAR, MASUNAGA,
»Valldemosa«
METROPOLITAN, MOREL and YOU MAWO.
-
Whether minimalist, architectural or full of character, each brand offers its own interpre-
top BANANA MOON dress HAIGHT
tation of the modern square look. This fashion shoot demonstrates how precise shapes, premium materials and understated color palettes create a welcome contrast to the pace of the urban environment: clean, confident and timeless.
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
81
MASUNAGA »Koki 112« -
jacket THE ROW skirt & socks ADIDAS
82
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CUTLER AND GROSS »1416 Square Opticals« -
jacket, pants & socks ADIDAS top PIECES shoes ISABEL MARANT
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
83
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »HE 2002« -
jacket ADIDAS jeans LEVI’S
84
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MOREL »Jean Nouvel – 90069C« -
top TRIUMPH pants & socks ADIDAS
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85
YOU MAWO »Cree« -
jacket, pants & socks ADIDAS shoes THURSDAY BOOT CO.
86
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
BLACKFIN »Tucker« -
top NOISY MAY pants TRIUMPH
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
87
photography
YULIA PLAKHOTNIKOVA [Barcelona]
styling : DAVOR JELUSIC hair & make-up : MARIA NEPRIAKHINA models : RUBY at TWO MANAGEMENT BARCELONA & HUGO at UNIKO MODELS
THEO »Positive«
blazer ZARA
THEO: LES PLEINS ET LES VIDES 88
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
THEO »Negative«
Presence Through Absence The collection Les pleins et les vides is based on a precise principle: what you see is shaped as much by the space around a form as by the form itself. Presence and absence create tension and balance. One gives meaning to the other. This bi-color titanium family from Belgian label theo was created by jacket ZARA
French designer matali crasset. Her philosophy revolves around relationships, interaction and the tension between them. She calls it le champ de tension. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
89
THEO
top ZARA, pants ADIDAS
»Vide«
90
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
THEO
outfit VICTOR VON SCHWARZ
»Vide«
»Tension«
Les pleins et les vides consists of six styles: »Negative«, »Vide«, »Positive«, »Tension«, »Connexion« and »Espace« explore the tension between form and space. A recurring spherical detail connects front, hinges and sation. The guiding principle is simple: what
»Espace«
pullover ARKET
temple tips in one continuous visual converisn’t there shapes what is. We sat down with Mik Somers, part of the second generation now leading theo eyewear, to talk about the collection.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
91
photo : ANTHONY LANNERETONNE
ABOUT THEO Hi Mik, theo has stood for bold, independent eyewear design for decades. In a time when many brands seem more alike than ever, what is the core of theo’s DNA today?
matali crasset
For us, it has never really changed. We had a dream and we’re still pursuing it. We create what we love, not what trends poetic or surprisingly simple to tell the
always the face. We once saw someone
should add something to a person. It
story behind the glasses. We may spend
in Johannesburg wearing our Pagoda
should show character and ideally earn
years developing it, launch four or five
collection. It wasn’t the collection we
you a compliment. That human connection
shapes and then move on. We don’t
connected with most, but it looked extra-
is still at the heart of everything we do.
squeeze every last drop out of a concept.
ordinary on that person. That’s when you
Many people associate theo with
Our boldness bar gives us the freedom to
realize how much the right optician and
humor, color and a spirit of experi-
move from subtle to outspoken. Not every
the right frame can change everything.
mentation. How do you keep that iden-
theo has to shout at the same volume.
tity fresh over so many years without
Even our opticians rarely know what’s
repeating yourselves?
coming next. Surprise is part of theo.
n oo ,T
theo regularly collaborates with
For the new Les pleins et les vides
tion starts from a different idea: technical,
external designers. What excites
collection, you collaborated with
you about bringing new creative
French designer matali crasset. How
perspectives into the brand?
did this partnership come about, and
&M
me ik So
rs
The exciting part is what
what made her the right person for
happens when different
the project?
people and ideas start to
We have been working with matali for
interact. We only work with
more than ten years. She wanted to
people we genuinely con-
design a frame for herself and contacted
nect with. External designers
several companies, but we immediately
don’t think about produc-
connected. The next day, she called
tion. They simply design
to say she wanted to work with theo
what they believe in,
because she connected with our way of
challenging our design-
thinking. We launched our first collection
ers and manufacturers to
together in Paris in 2015.
make it happen. That’s
matali often speaks about relation-
where the magic starts.
ships, interaction and the concept of
When do you know that
le champ de tension. What fascinated
a new design is truly
you most about her way of thinking?
“theo”? Is there a defining moment, or is it more of a feeling?
It is definitely more of a feeling than an exact science. We can dis-
92
WORKING WITH MATALI CRASSET
By not trying to repeat theo! Every collec-
photo : XNOORTJE PALMERS
n Ja
tell us to create. In the end, a theo frame
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
Her ability to put her signature into everything she designs. You immediately feel matali in her work, yet that signature also feels very theo. That’s what makes it such a great match.
cuss proportions, colors, construction
We put a lot of time and reflection in the
and details endlessly, but the final test is
design proces. And because we were so
pleased with the result, we initiated new projests together. So there is definitely more to come. What was the creative process like? Did matali surprise you in any way, or perhaps even change the way you think about eyewear design?
She always surprises us. She starts from an idea, not from technical limitations. We choose the concept with the most potential and start the proces to make it a comfortable, wearable theo frame. She designs what she feels. Our job is to make it happen. She keeps our designers and manufacturers sharp too. ABOUT THE NEW COLLECTION
polo shirt LACOSTE
The title Les pleins et les vides explores the relationship between form and emptiness. How do you translate such an abstract concept into a wearable eyewear collection?
A frame is a perfect object to explore the idea. You have the lines of the frame, but also the open space around the eyes, face and lenses. One cannot exist visually without the other. Here, form and space are equal parts of the design. Lines, proportions and colors create tension, while empty spaces com-
THEO »Espace«
plete the composition. What isn’t there shapes what is. The model names also revolve around ideas of space and relationships. Does each name tell its own story, or are they all chapters of a larger narrative?
They are part of one larger narrative. »Negative«, »Vide«, »Positive«, »Tension«, »Connexion« and »Espace« each offer another perspective on form and space. Together, they form the vocabulary of Les pleins et les vides. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
93
Despite its conceptual foundation,
And it’s always in the details. Every theo
design rather than having it reveal
the collection feels remarkably light
collection has its own temple tip because
itself at first glance?
and effortless. How do you strike the
the design doesn’t stop at the front. In our
We never design for one specific type of
balance between creating a design ob-
Encore et Encore collection with matali,
person. It will naturally appeal to bolder
ject and an everyday pair of glasses?
the temples were pressed into a mold to
theo fans, but it may just as easily be-
Because a frame is never just an object.
create a specific effect. You may not see
come someone’s first theo. That’s the
Someone has to wear it.
it immediately, but when you look closer,
beauty of it. Les pleins et les vides has
We love strong ideas, but the final test is
you discover it. You feel it. That’s incredi-
layers. You can simply love the shape or
bly important to us.
color, or discover the ideas behind it. You
always the face. Proportion, weight and comfort are part of the design process.
This collection feels highly concep-
don’t need to understand the theory to
Titanium allows us to create a strong
tual and intellectually driven. Who
fall in love with a theo frame.
visual presence with very little physical
is it designed for? Is it perhaps
weight. The concept can be bold while
aimed at people who enjoy discovering
theo.be @theoeyewear
the frame remains light. The collection is crafted from twotone titanium. What creative possibilities does this material offer you?
Titanium is incredibly light, yet it creates precise, strong lines. The two colors add another layer, helping express the relationship between full and empty. Is there one model in the collection that, for you personally, embodies the idea behind Les pleins et les
vides better than any other?
For me, it would probably be »Positive«, the round model. There is something very pure about a circle. The line and the emptiness inside make the idea behind Les pleins et les vides instantly visible. DESIGN PHILOSOPHY You often say that what isn’t there is just as important as what is visi-
THEO
ble. Do you believe that great design
»Positive«
is often more about removing than adding?
Not necessarily. It is about knowing why something is there. Sometimes the What matters is the relationship between the elements.
94
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
outfit COS
answer is to remove, sometimes to add.
still photography :
NOCERA & FERRI [London] retouch : LAURA CAMMARATA fashion photography :
ULRICH HARTMANN [Munich] assistant : MICHAEL TREUMANN hair & make-up : NATALIA WINKLER fashion counsel : ROLAND MÜLLER-NEUMEISTER [ALL LOOKS BY THE FASHION STUDENTS OF DMSFMM] models : RACHEL at MUNICH MODELS & ANNA at TIGERS MGMT retouch : ALINA FILIPENKO
Entstanden in enger kreativer Zusammenarbeit mit der Deutschen Meisterschule für Mode in München. Alle Entwürfe wurden von den Studierenden der DMSFMM in Handarbeit gefertigt. @meisterschulefuermode www.designschule-muenchen.de
ETNIA BARCELONA
INTO THE SEASON »Poblenou«
Strong Designs For Autumn/Winter 2026
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# SCUPLTED GEOMETRY # DIGITAL CRAFT # STRUCTURAL PRECISION # WEIGHTLESS AESTHETIC # CHROMATIC MAXIMALISM # VISUAL IDENTITY # NEW ECCENTRICITY # MODERN HERITAGE # SLIMLINE STATEMENTS
Autumn has always been considered a season of restraint. Darker colors, more substantial materials, familiar shapes. For Fall/Winter 2026, however, a more nuanced picture is emerging: Frames are becoming slimmer or deliberately voluminous, technically lighter or visibly constructed. Color does not disappear with summer but gains new depth – from smoky transparencies and mineral tones to intense shades of red, blue, and violet. Our Trend Special brings together nine independent brands that express this development in very different ways. In each editorial, three still lifes, created by our Londonbased still-life experts Nocera & Ferri, meet a fourth model in the people shot. For the portrait images, the frames then traveled to Berlin-based fashion photographer Ulrich Hartmann. Our Trend Special combines product study and personality, construction and impact. The selection ranges from titanium and precision-milled stainless steel to expressive acetate and additively manufactured 3D-printed frames. Rather than presenting a single formula for the season, the photographs offer nine individual answers to the question of what defines contemporary eyewear design today.
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97
REIZ »Minet te«
»Flint«
»Krios« 98
SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
REIZ »Krios«
# SCUPLTED GEOMETRY
REIZ REIZ has always worked at the intersection of
eyewear design, architecture, and geometry. From an early stage, the German brand explored the contrast between curves and angles, surfaces and lines – an approach it once aptly summarized with the term “Optitecture”. In the current selection, these ideas take on a more physical presence. Wide acetate fronts, clean upper lines, and substantial frame profiles give the models an almost sculptural quality. The sunglasses model »Krios« appears to have been carved from a dark block, yet its soft transitions keep it wearable and assured. Here, geometry is not mathematically cold but a way to give the face definition and character. SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
99
YOU MAWO »Baham«
# DIGITAL CRAFT
YOU MAWO YOU MAWO combines digital manufacturing
with a surprisingly artisanal approach to eyewear design. The frames are 3D-printed in Germany and can be adapted to individual face shapes using digital processes. This method makes it possible to create lightweight, durable models while opening up possibilities for shapes and surfaces that would be difficult to achieve with conventional tools. In the still lifes, this technology does not appear futuristically smooth but pleasantly tactile: Matte surfaces, muted colors, and clearly modeled volumes give the frames an almost textile quality. »Baham« features a softly rounded, universally wearable shape, revealing its distinctive manufacturing process only upon closer inspection. It is precisely this restraint that defines the collection’s appeal: High-tech that does not need to look futuristic but integrates naturally into everyday life. 100
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YOU MAWO »Cree«
»Matra«
»Baham«
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101
KOBERG »6080.1935«
»6052.1901«
»6081.1928«
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KOBERG »6065.1937«
# STRUCTURAL PRECISION
KOBERG KOBERG stands for eyewear whose construc-
tion is allowed to remain visible. A significant part of the collection is produced and finished in Baden-Württemberg, with final assembly taking place in Münster. When selecting materials and components, the brand prioritizes quality over keeping its supplier list as short as possible. The selected metal frames feature clean lines, graphic double bridges, and deliberately placed angles. Model »6065.1937« is an angular optical frame that appears light without looking fragile. KOBERG delivers less of a decorative accessory than a precisely constructed object – solid, controlled, and considered down to the smallest detail. SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
103
NINE EYEWEAR »2366«
# WEIGHTLESS AESTHETIC
NINE EYEWEAR A passion for outstanding design, exceptional craftsmanship, and meticulous attention to detail are the driving forces behind NINE EYEWEAR. The brand name already reveals
its central principle: A typical frame from the Danish premium brand weighs approximately nine grams. This is made possible by Japanese titanium, combined with Danish design and Japanese craftsmanship. Here, reduction does not mean formal austerity but a focus on comfort, material, and the lightest possible construction. The selected models combine delicate constructions with exceptional attention to detail. The three still lifes take this idea to its logical conclusion with fine metal lines and almost rimless fronts. Despite its generously proportioned geometric lenses, the »2366« appears barely heavier than a drawing suspended in space. In a season filled with bold volumes, this lightness feels surprisingly radical. 104
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NINE EYEWEAR »2637«
»2362«
»2636«
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105
ETNIA BARCELONA »Raval«
»Es Vedra«
»Joanic«
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ETNIA BARCELONA »Poblenou«
# CHROMATIC MAXIMALISM
ETNIA BARCELONA At ETNIA BARCELONA, color is not a finishing touch but the starting point of every design. Since its founding in 2001, the Catalan label has connected eyewear with art, culture, and an almost painterly passion for contrast. Many of its models are crafted from natural Mazzucchelli acetate, while its sunglasses also feature mineral lenses. The frames selected for our editorial translate this approach into bold silhouettes, faceted contours, and multilayered shades of Havana and green. With its polygonal front, the people-shot model »Poblenou« feels both retrofuturistic and distinctly contemporary. At ETNIA BARCELONA, sunglasses are not a subtle finishing touch to a look but its visual centerpiece. SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
107
THEO »Positive«
# VISUAL IDENTITY
THEO theo has been designing eyewear in Belgium since 1987 and is one of those brands that has turned the unconventional into a remarkably consistent signature. Color, asymmetry, and unexpected construction details are not used as gimmicks but as a distinct vocabulary. The models featured in our special resemble graphic symbols: Fine lines are interrupted, doubled, or reassembled in contrasting colors. Model »Positive« combines a round blue front with a horizontal bridge that deliberately throws the classic panto shape off balance. In doing so, theo demonstrates that artistic eyewear design does not have to be monumental – sometimes a single line in the right place is enough. 108
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THEO »Negative«
»Tension«
»Espace«
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109
STUDIO EYEWEAR »Zelda«
»Cassiopeya«
»Gioia«
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STUDIO EYEWEAR »Astrum«
# NEW ECCENTRICITY
STUDIO EYEWEAR STUDIO EYEWEAR is designed for women
who do not want their glasses to remain neutral but want them to be seen. The Swedish brand embraces expressive shapes, unexpected color combinations, and models that deliberately move between fashion accessory and optical frame. For Fall/Winter 2026, we encounter transparent color gradients, vivid pink, green, and violet, as well as temples that command attention even from the side. Model »Astrum« combines a dark, feminine front with violet transparency and decorative structures. The result is youthful, glamorous, and slightly eccentric – not playful in a childlike sense, but driven by a calculated pleasure in excess. SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
111
SALT. »Cass«
# MODERN HERITAGE
SALT. SALT. combines the relaxed clarity of the
California coast with uncompromising Japanese manufacturing. The independent label uses Japanese acetate and aerospacegrade titanium. Its designs frequently draw on historical archetypes but update them precisely through material thickness, fit, and proportion. Our selection demonstrates just how contemporary this form of modern heritage can feel. Substantial, carefully polished acetate rims meet earthy, milky, and Havana-colored tones. With its modern oval front and pale apricot shade, »Cass« brings a softer, almost sensual note to the season. SALT. does not search for the new through visual effects but through the perfect refinement of a familiar shape. 112
SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
SALT. »Tor y«
»Cass«
»Burnet t«
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113
KALEOS »Cho«
»Reily«
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»Greco«
KALEOS »Cool«
# SLIMLINE STATEMENTS
KALEOS KALEOS approaches eyewear from a dis-
tinctly fashion-driven perspective: Classic typologies are elongated, slimmed down, and brought into the present through new proportions. The brand works with acetate, metal, and titanium, combining clearly defined shapes with meticulous craftsmanship. For our Trend Special, this idea takes shape in narrow sunglasses whose reduced height is balanced by striking contours and precise color choices. The black model »Cool« distills the trend toward narrow cateye shapes into an almost cinematic silhouette. The models reference the late 1990s and early 2000s without becoming nostalgic – familiar in origin, sharp in execution. SPECTR // TREND SPECIAL
115
MODO »8507« blouse HELENE GALWAS shorts ADIDAS
MODO »8505« blazer MARC CAIN top SUMMUM shorts NEXT
116
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
C M F IN
CHRO MATIC FEMIN NITY
A Geometry Of Light And Color photography
TANJA TREMEL [Berlin]
styling : JOANA CLARO hair & make-up : CARSTEN RICHERT with AVEDA & MAC COSMETICS models : FATOUMATA at MODELWERK & EMMA at MODEL BOOKER
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117
Sometimes a single color is enough to transform the atmosphere of a space. Sometimes, all it takes is a pair of glasses. For our latest fashion shoot, photographer Tanja Tremel turns Berlin’s clean, geometric architecture into a stage for expressive frames, vibrant color palettes, and modern silhouettes. Set between light, concrete, and precise lines, the images create a compelling interplay of fashion, architecture, and design.
MARKUS T »MIO P1056«
At the center are acetate frames that express confidence not through volume, but through character. Bold colors meet transpa-
-
rent nuances, soft shapes encounter striking
suit J’AMEMME
contours. Sometimes sculptural, sometimes
blouse BRAX
minimal, sometimes playful – each frame
pumps JIMMY CHOO
develops a personality of its own while fitting effortlessly into the overall composition. The two models move through the monochrome setting with a natural elegance. Architecture becomes more than just a location. It serves as a visual counterpoint. While the white facades impress with their clarity, the frames introduce vibrant accents, giving the images a sense of movement, warmth, and individuality. The curated selection from ANNE ET VALENTIN, CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX, EINSTOFFEN, LOOK, MARKUS T, MODO, NEUBAU, and REIZ offers a compelling
showcase of the creative diversity found in modern acetate eyewear. Different design signatures, shared ambitions: confident, feminine, and uncompromisingly designdriven.
118
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
EINSTOFFEN »Grande Royal« hat & skirt MARC CAIN turtleneck KING LOUIE
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119
LOOK »75397« jacket MARC CAIN skirt J’AMEMME
120
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LOOK »75398« jacket QVC
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121
REIZ »Flint« blazer, pants & vest MARC CAIN coat DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN
122
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CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CM614 La Divine« jacket MARC CAIN skirt SUSANNE BOMMER
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123
124
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NEUBAU »Alma«
NEUBAU »Mina«
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125
ANNE & VALENTIN »Friselis« coat BA&SH
126
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photography : FLAIR
FLAIR »2023«
»9148«
FLAIR THE ART OF BEING LIGHT
At FLAIR, lightness is not a visual effect, but the result of rigorous development. Every connection, every material thickness and every contour serves a clearly defined function. The constructions appear minimal, yet are technically highly complex. It is precisely this interplay between visual restraint and precision that defines the character of the collections. Over the decades, the brand has continuously expanded its expertise in delicate
»2505«
128
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE
For almost 80 years, FLAIR has been creating
titanium frames. Premium materials such as
eyewear that puts the individual at the center.
titanium and gold are used wherever they
Rimless eyewear became the hallmark of
can reduce weight, provide stability and
a design philosophy in which technical
enhance comfort. Meticulous craftsmanship
sophistication is never placed on display,
and German engineering form the foundation
but deliberately allowed to recede into the
of every frame.
background. This approach continues to
With its new 3D-printed models, FLAIR is
shape the brand’s identity today and finds a
now opening another chapter. Additive manu-
contemporary evolution in its new 3D-printed
facturing creates new construction possibili-
models.
ties, enabling exceptionally lightweight, pre-
Some things don’t need attention. They deserve it.
FLAIR »5100«
»2505«
»2504«
cisely produced frames with a high degree of
product design and the ambition to create
often reveals itself only upon closer inspec-
design freedom. Yet the brand does not view
timeless objects. The frames are defined by
tion – through its lightness, its craftsmanship
the technology as an end in itself. Instead,
balanced proportions, precise detailing and
and its exceptional comfort.
it represents a consistent continuation of a
a visual language that deliberately remains
long-standing philosophy: innovation should
understated.
improve comfort and expand creative possi-
At a time when many frames are presen-
The idea that FLAIR has pursued for decades therefore remains more relevant than ever: eyewear is at its most successful
ted as fashion statements, FLAIR follows a
when it places the individual, rather than
Aesthetically, FLAIR also remains true to
different approach. Its eyewear is not inten-
itself, at the center.
its principles. Its inspiration comes less from
ded to dominate a look, but to contribute to
short-lived trends than from architecture,
a harmonious overall impression. Its quality
bilities without drawing attention to itself.
flair.de
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129
photography
SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich]
styling : JANINE BRAUN hair & make-up : NATALIE REXYGEL model : ANU MUNK at MODELWERK
LOOK »10995«
130
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
LO LA
OOK AMINA LOOK »10997«
Water changes perspectives. It refracts light, softens contours, and lends even the hardest materials an unexpected sense of lightness. This is precisely the space explored in our latest Collection Shoot for LOOK Lamina. Set against cool poolside architecture, reflective surfaces, and the shimmering calm of a summer day, photographer Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter creates a visual world in which metal appears almost weightless. For decades, the Italian brand LOOK has been one of the quieter voices ineyewear design. Rather than making bold statements, it creates frames whose quality reveals itself upon closer inspection. The Lamina collection follows this very philosophy. Here, reduction is not understood as limitation, but as an expression of creative clarity.
Floating Lightness — Where Water Meets Metal
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
131
LOOK »10997« dress MISSONI jewelry YOKOAMII
Crafted from Xinox, the brand’s ultra-
The color palette reflects the same
lightweight high-tech steel, the frames have
approach. Cool metallic tones meet soft
an almost graphic quality. Fine lines trace the
pastel shades and urban accents that change
face without overpowering it. The screwless
with the light. Sometimes understated, some-
connection between the front and temples
times unexpectedly present, but always with
makes the construction appear completely
a natural confidence that requires no staging.
natural. It is technical sophistication that
Perhaps this is Lamina’s greatest strength:
never demands attention. Combined with the
the collection does not seek attention. It
flexible NIL material, it creates a structure that
reveals its impact at exactly the right moment.
feels both precise and effortless.
In the interplay of light. Of movement. Of water. And of people who see design not as decoration, but as a natural part of their personality. lookocchiali.it
132
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
LOOK »10996« top SHAN jewelry RALPH LAUREN
LOOK »10998«
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133
LOOK »10998« dress MISSONI top SHAN jewelry SIF JAKOBS JEWELLERY
LOOK »10995« top BANANA MOON jewelry EDITED & RALPH LAUREN
134
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
Mod. 2258 | OWP Brillen GmbH | www.owp.de
DITA LANCIER »LSA-145« vest & pants ANDREAS MOSKIN scarf HÖGL top CALVIN KLEIN
photography
THOMAS SCHMIDT [Hamburg]
fashion editor : JOANA CLARO hair & make-up : SABINE WICKER at LIGA NORD AGENCY models : LENA M at MIRRRS MODELS & JOHANN BELLMANN at KULT MODELS assistant : GRACYELA BECKER 136
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
DITA LANCIER »LSA-144« fake fur GESTUZ top SUMMUM scarf DRYKORN
BRID GES WE CRO SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
137
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »HE-VRS01« coat MCM blouse & top SUMMUM
138
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
A Study Of Modern Metal Frames
MODO
Bridges connect places. They span water,
pants MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
»9017« shirt SAMSØE SAMSØE
open up new perspectives, and have always stood for technical precision and architectural elegance. For our latest fashion shoot, photographer Thomas Schmidt uses Hamburg’s striking bridge structures as a stage for a selection of delicate metal frames guided by the same principles: clarity, balance, and reduction. Against a backdrop of riveted steel beams and geometric lines, our two protagonists move with a sense of calm confidence. The urban architecture becomes more than just a setting – it becomes a visual echo of the eyewear. Slender profiles reflect the linearity of the structures, while fine metal details mirror their constructive precision, coming together in a distinctive visual language. The selected frames dispense with decorative effects and instead focus on perfect proportions, premium materials, and an almost weightless appearance. They feel modern, technical, and timeless at once – qualities that make them equally confident everyday companions and architectural design objects. Featuring models by DITA LANCIER, GÖTTI, LUNOR, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR, MARKUS T, MASUNAGA, and MODO, the edito-
rial brings together some of the most compelling interpretations of modern metal eyewear. Different design philosophies share the same fascination with precision, lightness, and an elegance that never needs to be loud.
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
139
LUNOR »M9 10« jacket DRYKORN jogging suit MCM socks NIKE loafers DR. MARTENS
140
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LUNOR »M9 09« blouse MARC CAIN blazer KING LOUIE
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141
GÖTTI »Driver« blazer HAN KJØBENHAVN pullover DRYKORN scarf MARC O’POLO pants HELMUT LANG
142
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
GÖTTI »Dorian« blouse BA&SH bomber jacket & belt MCM pants COMMA
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
143
MARKUS T »DOT MONO L1082« vest KING LOUIE tie VAN LAACK pants MARC CAIN
144
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
MASUNAGA »Chord S« coat DRYKORN dress BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
145
photos : RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
REIZ »Wolf«
Celebrating Three Decades Of Independent Eyewear Design
REIZ TIMELESS BY DESIGN
»Suisse«
Thirty years is a remarkable milestone in the eyewear world. Collections come and go, trends shift with the seasons, and supposed must-haves quickly become little more than footnotes. REIZ has never followed that rhythm. Rather than chasing every new hype, the brand has pursued its own design path since 1996 – guided by a refined sense of proportion, premium materials, and a visual language that has never needed to demand attention. To mark its 30th anniversary, we speak with founder Franz Reutter about the beginnings of REIZ, the evolution of the brand, and what will continue to define good eyewear design in the future.
146
SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY
Franz, first of all, congratulations on your 30th anniversary. REIZ in
REIZ »Rocker«
three words, please.
Precise. Timeless. High-quality. When you look back at the beginnings of REIZ today, what was your original idea? Was there a moment when you knew: Now I’m going to start my own eyewear brand?
I had always been fascinated by eyewear. At the same time, I felt it was a shame that there were hardly any models on the market back then that truly conveyed character, style, and a certain sensuality. In the 1990s, fashion still played a relatively minor role in the eyewear industry. As so often happens in life, the right people then came together at the right time and in the right place. What began
»Inti«
with our first experiments in my brother’s basement quickly developed into a clear vision. By the time we visited Optica 1995 in Cologne and received the support of a small network, it was clear that the right moment had come to make this dream a reality. Do you still remember your first collection? Looking back after 30 years, what would you do differently today — and what would you do exactly the same way again?
The first collection involved a great deal of experimentation – trying out shapes
designs and in the way we interact with
Geometric shapes give our frames a clear
and working with different materials. The
our customers.
signature. They create character without
first frames were made entirely by hand,
Many brands follow trends. Your
being intrusive and allow us to play with
each one unique. It was a different time,
designs often seem to resist the
proportions and lines. The result is eye-
and it was exactly right back then. I would
zeitgeist. How do you achieve this
wear that is distinctive while remaining a
do it the same way again.
balance between relevance and
versatile companion.
REIZ has never been the loudest brand
timelessness?
Are there any models or collections
in the market. Was that a conscious
I am certainly inspired by new develop-
that still embody REIZ for you today?
decision, or did it simply develop
ments, but I do not chase trends. For me,
»Mia« – one of the first REIZ classics.
from your personality and your
the central question is: Will people still
»Wolf« – this model comes from the Lovely
approach to design?
enjoy wearing these glasses several
Animals series. Its defining feature is its
It was indeed a conscious decision.
years from now? Timelessness comes
three-dimensional look.
I never wanted to be the loudest brand,
from clear shapes, high-quality materials,
»Krios« – in 2024, we introduced the new
but one that convinces through quality,
and a design that emphasizes the
MONUMENT collection. The designs of
personality, and consistency while also
wearer’s natural character.
these models named after gods impress
being positioned within the fashion seg-
Geometry plays a major role in your
with their balanced dimensions and sculp-
ment. This attitude is reflected both in our
designs. What is behind that?
tural shapes. SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY
147
The eyewear industry has changed
market – whether wood, 3D-printed poly-
to-measure eyewear to personalized
enormously over the past three
amide, or even paper. Almost anything is
frames. In addition, sustainable materials,
decades. Which development has
possible today. This variety is fantastic.
resource-efficient production processes,
surprised you the most?
We have also worked with aluminum and
and longer product lifespans will become
What surprises me most – and pleases
titanium, yet our hearts have belonged to
increasingly important purchasing criteria.
me at the same time – is how strongly
acetate for many years. It offers countless
Nevertheless, I am convinced that specia-
eyewear has evolved from a purely
creative possibilities in terms of color,
list retailers will continue to hold their
functional object into an expression of
is lightweight and comfortable against the
own against online competition and other
personal identity. In the past, glasses
skin, and has an unmistakably premium
technologies by offering personal advice
were more of an unwelcome necessity,
feel.
and a high level of expertise.
with function taking priority above all else.
Looking ahead to the next ten years,
Where would you like to see REIZ for
Today, eyewear is often a consciously
which topics will have a lasting
its 40th anniversary?
chosen style statement. Many people
impact on the eyewear industry?
I hope that by then I will mainly be lying
own several frames and select them to
Over the next ten years, three topics in
somewhere on a deck chair with a view of
suit the occasion, their outfit, or their
particular will have a lasting impact on the
the mountains (laughs). No, jokes aside.
mood. At the same time, quality and
eyewear industry: digitalization, individu-
I hope that in ten years’ time, I will still
environmental considerations have
alization, and sustainability. Artificial
enjoy designing new models and still feel
moved more strongly into focus. This
intelligence will gradually play a major
happy whenever I meet people on the
development has made the industry
role here as well. Customers increasingly
street wearing a frame by REIZ GERMANY
considerably more exciting.
expect individual solutions – from made-
and looking sensational. reiz.net
At the same time, many independent brands have disappeared from the market or become part of larger corporate groups. What does it take today to establish an independent design brand successfully in the market?
A clear attitude, distinctive design, and the determination to stay true to your path. As in every area of daily life, there are
REIZ
tempting offers. Even so, remaining true to
»Krios«
yourself pays off. Particularly as an independent brand, it is important to develop a signature that remains recognizable over many years. At the same time, it requires the highest quality, close cooperation with
Selected design
specialist retailers, and the courage to
statements from
think long term. Trust does not develop
30 years of REIZ
overnight – it grows through consistency, credibility, and products that bring people joy. What role do new materials, digital tools, or modern manufacturing technologies play at REIZ?
Here too, we are not the ones shouting the loudest. In recent years, many new materials have become established in the
148
SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY
»Mia«
D E
S I
G N
»Ein Schritt nach vorn: Die Kollektion DESIGN ordnet ihren Ursprung konstruktiv neu.« »A step forward: The DESIGN collection renews its roots with structured vision.« Markus Temming
markus-t.com
SILMO 2026, Halle 7, Stand E 230
Created in close creative collabortaion with the Deutsche Meisterschule für Mode in Munich. All designs were handcrafted by the students of DMSFMM. @meisterschulefuermode | www.designschule-muenchen.de
PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8764«
THE MANY FACES OF LUXURY
Five Brands. One Family. The De Rigo Fashion Story.
photography
ULRICH HARTMANN [Munich]
assistant : MICHAEL TREUMANN hair & make-up : NATALIA WINKLER fashion counsel : ROLAND MÜLLER-NEUMEISTER [ALL LOOKS BY THE FASHION STUDENTS OF DMSFMM]
models : ANTONIA, NOAH & ELIAS at TIGERS MGMT
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SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8478«
PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8478«
Luxury today can hardly be reduced to a single definition. For some, it means restraint; for others, opulence. Sometimes it lies in technical precision, sometimes in masterful craftsmanship, and sometimes simply in the courage to be different. Perhaps it is precisely this diversity that represents the greatest luxury of all. Under the umbrella of the Italian familyowned company De Rigo, several distinct design worlds come together without losing their individuality. Photographer Ulrich Hartmann allows each collection to tell its own story. In the interview that follows, Barbara De Rigo reveals how these different brand worlds coexist under one roof and which vision is shaping the future of the company.
PORSCHE DESIGN PORSCHE DESIGN stands for a form of design
in which every detail has its purpose: reduced, precise and uncompromisingly functional. The collection combines technical perfection with a clear, timeless design language and embodies the ambition to bring aesthetics and function into perfect balance.
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CHOPARD »SCHM92«
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SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
CHOPARD »SCHM93S«
CHOPARD CHOPARD interprets luxury through excep-
tional craftsmanship, refined detailing and an elegance that never needs to be loud. Inspired by the world of Haute Joaillerie, the frames combine the highest material quality with a subtle, sophisticated aesthetic.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
153
ROBERTO CAVALLI »SRC194«
ROBERTO CAVALLI »VRC209«
ROBERTO CAVALLI ROBERTO CAVALLI stands for Italian sensua-
lity, expressive patterns and glamorous styling. Striking silhouettes, luxurious materials and an unmistakable design language turn every frame into a confident fashion statement.
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SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
PHILIPP PLEIN »SPP256«
PHILIPP PLEIN »VPP263«
PHILIPP PLEIN PHILIPP PLEIN understands luxury as a visible
statement and embraces uncompromising extravagance. Bold shapes, striking details and a provocative aesthetic give the collection a powerful presence and an unmistakable character.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
155
RODENSTOCK »R7191«
RODENSTOCK RODENSTOCK combines optical innovation
with a clear, modern design language. Precision, technological excellence and an uncompromising commitment to quality define the collection, alongside its timeless and confident character. 156
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT
The BUSINESS
OF AUTHENTICITY
Barbara De Rigo on preserving brand identity, balancing luxury with innovation, and shaping the future of premium eyewear.
De Rigo’s story begins in Belluno, the birth-
For our fashion shoot, you selected
place of the Italian eyewear industry. What
collections from PORSCHE DESIGN,
started as a family-owned company has
CHOPARD, RODENSTOCK, PHILIPP PLEIN and
grown into one of the world’s leading
ROBERTO CAVALLI. What connects these
premium eyewear groups, with a portfolio
five brands, and what makes each of
that includes PORSCHE DESIGN, CHOPARD,
them unique?
RODENSTOCK, PHILIPP PLEIN and ROBERTO
Each brand represents a distinct expres-
CAVALLI. As a second-generation member of
sion of premium eyewear. CHOPARD
the De Rigo family and the company’s Chief
stands for timeless luxury, exceptional
Marketing Officer, Barbara De Rigo shares
craftsmanship and the heritage of fine
her perspective on craftsmanship, innovation
jewelry and watchmaking. PHILIPP PLEIN
and the evolving premium eyewear market.
and ROBERTO CAVALLI embody fashion-
For our SPECTR fashion shoot, she curated a
driven self-expression – one bold and
selection of frames from across the group’s
uncompromising, the other defined
collections.
by glamour and Italian sophistication. PORSCHE DESIGN and RODENSTOCK represent technical excellence, where engineering, innovation and functionality take centre stage. What unites them is not a common design language but a shared commitment to authenticity, quality and excellence. Every brand has a clear identity, and our role at De Rigo is to preserve that DNA while translating it into eyewear that feels both credible and instantly recognizable. Their design languages could hardly be more different. How do you balance technical innovation with contemporary design? S P E C T R / / C E O TA L K
157
Innovation and design are strongest when
Beyond the product itself, we create
manufacturing and digital technologies
they work together. Even the most fashion-
premium experiences through distinctive
will continue to improve both products
driven collections rely on comfort, quality
collections, compelling brand storytelling
and customer experiences.
and wearability, while technically focused
and dedicated support for our retail part-
Ultimately, however, the most success-
brands also need emotional appeal.
ners. By helping them differentiate their
ful innovations are the ones consumers
Every brand expresses innovation diffe-
offering and strengthen customer loyalty,
hardly notice. The best technology simply
rently – through engineering, advanced
we create long-term value for both our
makes eyewear lighter, more comfortable,
partners and our brands.
more durable and easier to wear while
materials, craftsmanship or product development – but the principle remains the
What have been the key growth drivers
same: innovation should always strengthen
in the premium eyewear market over
the brand rather than overshadow it.
the past five years? And which of
Finally, looking ahead: Where do you
How do you ensure that each brand
these do you believe will remain the
see the premium eyewear market in five
continues to evolve while preserving
most influential going forward?
years, and what role do you expect De
remaining true to the character of the brand.
its authentic identity over the long
One of the biggest shifts has been the
term?
transformation of eyewear into an expres-
I believe the premium eyewear market
Every successful brand is built on a
sion of personal identity. Consumers are
will become even more focused on au-
heritage and a set of values that consu-
increasingly willing to invest in products
thenticity. Consumers will continue to
mers recognize and trust. If you lose
that reflect their lifestyle, values and aes-
seek products that combine quality, de-
sight of that foundation, you risk losing
thetic preferences.
sign, innovation and emotional relevance,
what made the brand desirable in the first
At the same time, appreciation for crafts-
while eyewear itself will increasingly
place.
manship, heritage and lasting quality has
reflect personal identity and lifestyle.
At the same time, brands cannot stand
grown significantly. Brands that combine
Our ambition is to further strengthen
still. Consumer expectations continue to
authenticity with an emotional connection
De Rigo’s position as a trusted partner for
evolve, so the challenge is to move
to consumers will continue to stand out.
some of the industry’s most prestigious
Rigo to play in shaping its future?
forward in a way that feels natural. We
What makes De Rigo unique from your
brands while remaining true to the values
always ask ourselves one simple ques-
perspective? Where do you see the
that have guided us from the beginning:
tion: if someone who loves the brand
company’s greatest strengths?
craftsmanship, product excellence,
discovers a new collection, will they
Our strength lies in combining the entre-
innovation and a strong commitment to
recognize it immediately? If the answer is
preneurial mindset of a family business
people.
yes, we know we are moving in the right
with the capabilities of a global premium
The true strength of our organization lies
direction.
eyewear group. Rooted in Belluno, one
in its human capital: professionals who
What overarching design trends are
of the world’s most important eyewear
bring expertise, curiosity, passion, and the
shaping the premium eyewear segment
districts, we continue to build an interna-
courage to embrace change. They never
today?
tional portfolio while staying true to our
stop learning, they challenge assumptions,
Consumers increasingly refuse to define
heritage.
and they turn uncertainty into opportunity.
themselves through a single style. They
Equally important is our close relationship
Skills open doors. Curiosity creates
move effortlessly between understated
with optical retailers. Premium eyewear is
possibilities. An open mindset transforms
everyday eyewear and bold statement
not only about exceptional products but
challenges into innovation.
pieces, depending on the occasion.
also about communicating their value.
Organizations that invest in their people
As a result, quiet luxury and expressive
That is why we continue to invest in
are not simply preparing for the future –
design continue to thrive side by side.
training, education and dedicated support
they are shaping it. Because when talen-
Rather than competing, timeless aesthe-
for our partners, who remain an essential
ted individuals are empowered to grow,
part of the brand experience.
collaborate, and evolve, extraordinary
tics, exceptional materials and individuality have become complementary forces
Which innovations — whether in mate-
things happen.
within the premium market.
rials, manufacturing, digital techno-
At the heart of every breakthrough, every
What role does the premium segment
logies or the customer experience —
successful transformation, and every
play in De Rigo’s long-term growth
will have the greatest impact on the
lasting achievement, there are people.
strategy?
premium eyewear market over the next
Human capital is more than an asset –
three to five years?
it is the energy, vision, and potential that
Premium eyewear is about creating desire through exceptional design, craftsman-
Innovation is becoming increasingly holis-
drives progress and makes the impossible
ship, innovation and iconic brands.
tic. Advanced materials, more precise
possible. derigo.com
158
S P E C T R / / C E O TA L K
clemence-margaux.com
STAND G034
Tél. 03 29 07 88 91 www.lunettes-cco.de
CCO - VILLA NINO 247 av. Bouloumié BP20031 88801 VITTEL CEDEX
HALL 6
photography : EYEFLY
Smart glasses are no longer a vision of the future — but only now is a truly wearable interpretation of the category beginning to emerge. With EYEFLY, HOUSE OF MODO presents a brand that does not place
technology centre stage, but integrates it as seamlessly as possible into everyday life. The focus is not the technology, but the eyewear.
EYEFLY: THE SOUND OF SMART EYEWEAR While many smart-eyewear concepts rely on cameras, displays
160
of features, but how naturally they integrate into everyday life. By
and increasingly complex features, EYEFLY takes a different approach.
focusing on audio, EYEFLY aims to offer a more discreet and wearable
The collection focuses on open-ear audio – allowing wearers to listen
experience than camera-based solutions. The result is a product that
to music, make calls, use navigation or interact with AI assistants with-
brings together design, comfort and connectivity.
out headphones, without a screen and without disconnecting from
The design follows the same philosophy. The frames take their
their surroundings. The technology remains discreetly in the back-
cues from premium eyewear and avoid overtly futuristic styling. Clean
ground, while the wearing experience is closer to that of premium
lines, high-quality materials and a contemporary design language
everyday eyewear than a technical gadget.
define the collection. Weighing approximately 30 grams and featuring
This is precisely what distinguishes the concept from many
intuitive touch controls and up to six hours of battery life, the integrated
previous smart-eyewear solutions. The priority is not the number
technology recedes into the background both visually and functionally.
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE
EYEFLY »Drif t«
»A xis«
»Nova«
»Amp«
The concept also includes a modular temple system. Each frame can be fitted with either smart audio temples or conventional temples.
photochromic lenses, reinforces EYEFLY’s ambition to establish itself as an eyewear brand in its own right.
Within seconds, the same pair of glasses can be transformed from a
The development reflects a broader shift in smart eyewear to-
connected device into a classic frame – a detail that further under-
wards the principles of classic product design. The focus is no longer
lines the flexibility of the concept.
on maximum technical complexity, but on relevance, comfort and
Since its market launch, the range has been continuously expan-
design quality. EYEFLY positions itself precisely at this intersection –
ded. Alongside the debut model »Drift«, the collection now includes
with an interpretation of smart eyewear in which technology takes a
»Axis«, »Nova« and »Amp«. A variety of shapes – from clean rectan-
step back and the eyewear remains at the centre.
gular forms and cat-eye silhouettes to distinctive aviator styles –
eyefly.com
together with new colorways and options for prescription, sun or SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE
161
LOOK SPORT UTILITY LOOK »10443«
Where Performance Meets Everyday Style LOOK »10442«
photography : RAPHAEL SCHMITZ 162
S P E C T R / / AT H L E I S U R E E Y E W E A R
LOOK »10441«
LOOK »10442«
For decades, Italy’s LOOK has stood for the
into the temples via the patented LHS hinge.
sophisticated architecture provides remark-
successful fusion of technical innovation,
Originally conceived as a functional construc-
able flexibility: the frames adapt comfortably
clean design and uncompromising material
tion element, it evolved into the unmistakable
to different head shapes while offering an
quality. The brand’s collections are shaped
design code of the series and continues to
exceptionally high level of comfort.
by a distinctly Italian approach to design,
embody movement, precision and Italian
in which function and aesthetics always go
engineering to this day.
Despite their technical appearance, however, these are not sports-only frames.
hand in hand. A prime example is the Sport
For our shoot, the new models »10441«,
Instead, they move effortlessly between an
Utility series – a family of frames that trans-
»10442« and »10443« stepped in front of the
active lifestyle and the urban everyday. The
lates sporting DNA into a design language
camera. They consistently carry forward the
Sport Utility models stand out through their
made for everyday life.
collection’s distinctive DNA while reinterpre-
lightness, premium craftsmanship and a
The story of the Sport Utility collection
ting the original concept through modern
design that combines functionality and style
began back in the 1990s. Inspired by the
proportions and a contemporary design
with apparent ease. It is precisely this versati-
dynamic lines of modern sports motorcycles,
language.
lity that makes the collection a contemporary
designer Giuseppe De Riva created the Sport
What sets the Sport Utility series apart is
interpretation of performance eyewear –
Utility »10440«, a frame that quickly became
its finely judged balance between performance
engineered for movement, made for every
one of LOOK’s most iconic designs. Its
and everyday wearability. The frames feature
day.
defining feature is the distinctive Xinox bar,
a sporty base curve that creates a dynamic
which shapes the front and flows seamlessly
line around the face. At the same time, the
lookocchiali.it
S P E C T R / / AT H L E I S U R E E Y E W E A R
163
BARTON PERREIRA »Butzi« monokini DRUNE shorts & OTHER STORIES cap STELLA MCCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS shoes BIRKENSTOCK
Swimwear leaves the beach. Eyewear takes the lead.
SPLASH FORWAR photography
ESTELLE KLAWITTER [Dusseldorf]
styling : JULY SKY hair & make-up : SANDRA BRAMMER model : TERESA OCEANA at NO TOYS MODELS
164
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
BARTON PERREIRA »Sly« bikini CALISTA
RD SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
165
KADOR »Erakis« bikini TOMMY HILFIGER skirt BEATRICE shoes HERMES
Swimwear has long since moved beyond the beach. In the 2026 season, it becomes a natural part of modern ready-to-wear looks, combining sporty function with urban elegance. Swimsuits are styled like bodysuits, bikini tops emerge as confident fashion pieces, while clean lines, graphic silhouettes and intense colors set the tone. It is precisely this zeitgeist that photographer Estelle Klawitter captures in her editorial Splash Forward, translating it into an imagery full of summery lightness. At the centre are sunglasses that lend the looks an added sense of definition. Sometimes futuristic, sometimes glamorous, sometimes marked by confident restraint, the frames accompany swimwear’s transformation into a fully fledged fashion category. Beyond the pool area, too, the eyewear – partly pure female styles, partly unisex designs – reveals its full impact through shape, color and material. Transparent acetates meet bold volumes and expressive oversized silhouettes. The result is an editorial that understands swimwear not merely as holiday attire, but as an everyday statement – dynamic, selfassured and always ready to make the leap from the street straight into the water. Brands: BARTON PERREIRA, CAZAL, CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX, CUTLER AND GROSS, EINSTOFFEN, KADOR, MARC O’POLO, MOREL.
166
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
KADOR »BIG Line 1« swimsuit CALVIN KLEIN scarf DIOR
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
167
MARC O’POLO »506248« sweater VOGUE bikini JOOP!
168
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
MARC O’POLO »508009« swimsuit MISSONI jewelry EDITH PARIS
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
169
MOREL »Glyphe Bold« bikini DIOR shirt MASSIMO DUTTI necklace EDITH PARIS
170
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
CLÉMENCE ET MARGAUX »CMS239 La Calypso« swimsuit & shoes H&M
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
171
CUTLER AND GROSS »1434 Square Sunglasses« bikini CENSORED BEACH shirt RACHEL ZOE
172
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
EINSTOFFEN »Ærun« swimsuit LASCANA
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
173
CAZAL »MOD 8524« cap MARC CAIN bikini ESTE MUSE
174
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
EINSTOFFEN »Hana #7253«
About Visual Language, AI and Attitude
EINSTOFFEN BEHIND THE LENS 176
S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
photos : EINSTOFFEN
An image should never explain. It should resonate.
For Ramon Studer, photography is far more
EINSTOFFEN »Æsoris #7113«
than the visual presentation of a pair of glasses. To the co-founder of EINSTOFFEN, it is an art form in its own right: one that creates atmosphere, tells stories and gives a brand its identity. This mindset runs consistently through everything currently shaping the Swiss label, from its latest shoot in London and its considered use of artificial intelligence to new limited-edition color drops and a completely reimagined trade show presence at Silmo. In conversation, Studer explains why product, image and brand universe are inseparably connected at EINSTOFFEN.
Hi Ramon, you have just returned from
in the evening. With small children, that
season was very strong, and there was
London. What took you there?
is invaluable. We already spend a week
active demand for additional colors and
We shot the campaign imagery for the up-
away at a time for the major trade shows
coming season there, but honestly, Lon-
and other events.
sizes. Some of the color drops are strictly
don simply came together quite naturally.
With the new color drops, you are not
limited. Once they are gone, they are
We wanted to work with Ricki Hall again.
introducing new shapes, but new
gone. What appeals to you about this
We have known him for years and have
colors. What is behind the concept?
kind of exclusivity?
always stayed in touch. And since Kane
It is not the same every year. This year,
Personally, I am fascinated by a product
Layland is one of our favorite photogra-
we made a conscious decision to focus
that simply sells out at some point, even
phers, one thing simply led to another.
exclusively on color and size for the fall,
though it is performing extremely well and
Why does a Swiss brand fly to London
rather than introducing new shapes. That
could easily be reproduced. From a com-
for a shoot? What does the city offer
allows us to see which models really take
mercial perspective, restocking would be
that other places cannot?
off during the season and then respond
the obvious decision, especially since the
London is an incredible source of inspira-
specifically where a trend is emerging,
development costs have already been
tion for us, which also turns a shoot like
instead of simply pushing new shapes
covered. But that is what our other lines
across the entire collection.
are for: Roots, Core and Essentials. IX is
this into a great trip. That said, we have recently discovered the advantages of
In an industry that aims to present as
shooting here in Switzerland as well. You
many new products as possible every
can meet beforehand, organize every-
season, this approach feels almost
How do you decide which colors have
thing at short notice, wrap the entire pro-
unusual. Is less sometimes more?
the potential to become a color drop?
duction in a single day and be back home
It simply made sense for us this year. The
intended for collectors, not for replenishment.
Does the process begin with trends or S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
177
more with instinct?
We do buy and read a few trend reports. In the end, though, it is usually a gut decision. We do not necessarily see ourselves as a trend-driven brand. Artificial intelligence is currently changing image production as well. What is your position on creating imagery with AI? Did it already play
EINSTOFFEN »Ærun #7123 «
a role in your London shoot?
We use AI selectively for certain formats, but never for our campaign imagery. And honestly, the subject loses some of its appeal for us quite quickly. At first, we were amazed by what was possible. But creating good AI imagery involves a great deal of work. You need to build an entire system first. The London shoot was completely traditional: a real camera, real light and real models. Our budget for “real” content has increased, not decreased. Where do you see the opportunities for AI within the creative process, and where would you consciously draw the line?
178
S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
communication?
are being customized and built with a
How does EINSTOFFEN position itself
partner. It is incredibly exciting. Trade
within the independent eyewear lands-
shows remain essential meeting places
cape today? What has defined the brand
for us. Even though, for the same amount
over the years?
of money, you could almost build a house.
We have been independent since 2008,
What should visitors feel when they
operate exclusively in B2B and have
enter your booth?
never placed a single personality at the
They should get a sense of the brand
center of the brand. We sell through op-
and our products, meet our team and feel
ticians, not directly ourselves. And at the
welcome.
end of the year, we do not owe anyone
To conclude, a brief look ahead: Which
a return on their investment. That means
themes and priorities will shape
we never have to compromise when it
EINSTOFFEN over the coming year?
comes to materials.
The 2027 collection is already finalized
Your trade show appearances are ano-
and the samples are in production. We
ther important part of your brand
are also testing adjustable-length temples
communication. You will present a new
for our IX titanium line and introducing
booth concept at Silmo. What role
an ultra-lightweight high-density acetate
does booth design still play today,
collection with titanium temples for the
especially in an age of digital com-
Essentials line. And, of course, there is
munication?
plenty more to come. Lots of new shapes!
The booth has to fit into the brand universe, of course. For Silmo, we developed
einstoffen.com
an entirely new concept together with our product designer. Many of the elements
Above all, it is incredibly exciting as a way of communicating an idea to the creative team. Being able to visualize the eyewear on a face, for example. Or when it comes to styling: we told the AI which clothes we had ordered, and it generated a range of combinations and looks for us. We still need to determine exactly where the boundary lies. But photography is art, and
EINSTOFFEN
our line is clear: AI should complement it,
»Æsoris #7112«
not replace it. EINSTOFFEN has stood out for years
with a highly distinctive visual language. How important are communication in general and photography in particular to your brand in relation to the product itself?
I personally love photography as an art form. Some of the content photographers are creating today genuinely excites me. Through their own photographic language, they build an entire universe. That is where I want us to go as a brand. Communication is powerful when it looks simple and feels distinctive. That is the real art. And the product has to feel at home within it. Do you build the communication around the product, or the product around the S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
179
OWP DESIGNED FOR CHARACTER The Power Of Color, Personality And Design 180
S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E
photography : OWP
The campaign imagery translates this approach with striking clarity. Bold colors, modern interiors and reduced compositions create an atmosphere in which the frames become a natural part of the overall look. With its latest collection, OWP demonstrates that characterful design does not need to be loud. Instead, individuality emerges through the interplay of form, color and subtle details – modern, versatile and shaped by an unmistakable design signature. owp.de
Eyewear is part of a person’s identity – and this is precisely where OWP’s new collection begins. Guided by the concept “Designed for
Character”, the Passau-based brand places individuality at the center. At its heart lies the idea that personality becomes visible through conscious choices and an appreciation of detail – an attitude that runs consistently throughout the entire collection. The new models present a broad variety of shapes and color worlds. Clean, pared-back silhouettes sit alongside more distinctive designs, while soft nuances meet expressive accents. OWP does not treat color as a decorative element, but as a means of making personality visible. Each frame develops its own presence and naturally underlines the individual style of its wearer. Equally defining is the attention paid to detail. Refined shapes and carefully placed design accents lend the frames depth and character. The philosophy behind the new collection captures this perfectly: true beauty lies in the details. This is where the models reveal their full effect – not through exaggeration, but through thoughtful design that continues to reveal new facets upon closer inspection. S P E C TSRP E / /CCT O R L/ L/ ELCATBI EOLN USPHDOAO TE T
181
LOOK »10442«
Performance Becomes Style
BEYOND VELOCIT
182
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
D TY
LOOK »10441«
photography
MERT DÜRÜMOGLU @MERT_STUDIO @ARTALENTS @KATS_AGENCY @RPRESENTER
styling : MIRJANA VUJCIC @MIRJANA.VUJCIC_STYLING hair & make-up : KRISTIN MEISEN @KRISTINMEISEN_MINSKA at LIGAWEST @LIGAWEST_MELANIE_KLEIN models : HAYA HALIMEH @HAYAPOLE @HAYAPOLE, , ENZO ENGLERT @MARIUS__ENZO at EAST WEST MODELS @EASTWESTMODELS & SAMUEL OSSEY @KOFIOSSEY at EAST WEST MODELS @EASTWESTMODELS studio : CUBIC STUDIOS @CUBIC_STUDIOS post production : MARCEL WENINGER @MARCELWENINGER assistant : CHRISTIAN HUHN @CHRISTIANHUHNFOTOGRAFIE SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
183
Standing still is not an option. Our world is accelerating – and with it, the codes of fashion are changing. Functional products are leaving their original context, merging with contemporary design and becoming natural companions of urban life. Athleisure eyewear exemplifies this transformation – and embodies it more confidently than virtually any other segment: developed for maximum performance, yet worn far beyond the world of sport. For SPECTR, photographer Mert Dürümoglu translates this development into an extraordinary series of images filled with tension and dynamism. The models appear to challenge gravity, while movement becomes a visual language in its own right. The resulting images do less to capture a single moment than to make energy visible. The focus is on current models from EVIL EYE, LOOK, MAUI JIM, MYKITA, POC, REACT
and SIOLS. Striking shield designs, aerodynamic lines and innovative materials meet an aesthetic that has long since arrived on the streets of the world’s major cities. What was once developed exclusively for peak performance has now become an integral part of an independent design culture in which speed, precision and style are inextricably linked.
184
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
MYKITA »Bear«
MYKITA »Daisuke«
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
185
SIOLS »Aero.Goggle«
186
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
SIOLS »Flite.Rim True Nature Sys.Pro«
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
187
EVIL EYE »Speedsense«
188
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
EVIL EYE »Trailsense II«
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
189
POC »Devour«
190
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
REACT »Rev«
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
191
MAUI JIM »Miona«
192
SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
photos : TOERSCHEN
The Optician’s Guidance: Learn From The Best
For SPECTR Magazine, Daniel and Simone of Brillenhaus Toerschen talk about their shared journey in optics and how a traditional store in St. Tönis, Germany, evolved into a distinctive destination for precise vision, personal consultation and independent eyewear. Since 2011, they have continued to refine their concept with a carefully curated selection of brands, plenty of time for individual advice, an atmosphere somewhere between
BRILLENHAUS TOERSCHEN A Vision Of Their Own
a living room, boutique and eyewear lounge – and the ambition not simply to sell people a pair of glasses, but to guide them with genuine care and expertise. This philosophy now extends into the digital world. Their new website communicates the unique character of the store more clearly and demonstrates how contemporary an owner-operated optician can be today. With its own easy-touse content management system and FAVR Smart Content Modules, the website remains flexible, current and dynamic without requiring Daniel and Simone to constantly maintain the content themselves. The result is a digital presence that does more than inform: it inspires – and gives visitors a real sense of what Brillenhaus Toerschen stands for before they even step through the door.
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Daniel and Simone of Brillenhaus Toerschen on personal consultation, independent eyewear and a new website that extends the experience of their store into the digital world.
with brands we already knew and a more
further. Perhaps I’m also a little more wil-
conventional business model. But the
ling to take risks. Those different perso-
desire to create something of our own,
nalities complement each other extremely
something that would clearly stand apart
well in everyday life.
from the market, was there from the be-
Your approach centers on precise
ginning. Over the years, step by step, this
vision, personal consultation and
evolved into the Brillenhaus Toerschen
eyewear with character. How would
people know today.
you describe your philosophy as
You run Brillenhaus Toerschen together
opticians?
as a couple. How do you divide respon-
For us, the individual is always at the
sibilities in your day-to-day work,
center. We want our customers to experi-
Daniel and Simone, Brillenhaus
and where do your different strengths
ence an atmosphere that feels more like
Toerschen has been based in St. Tönis,
complement each other particularly
a living room than a traditional store. They
Germany, since 2011. How did your
well?
should sense that beautiful eyewear is
journey together in optics begin —
Because we have known each other
not simply a product for us, but a genuine
and what kind of store did you want
since 2002, we understand very well how
passion.
to create from the outset?
the other person thinks and works. Of
That is why we deliberately take plenty
Our story is actually quite a special one.
course, over time it also became clear
of time. On average, we schedule around
Simone had been my colleague since
who brings which strengths to the table.
90 minutes for a consultation. For us,
2002 and played a major role in my
We now have two children as well, so
quality always comes before quantity.
training. It was only nine years later that
many responsibilities have naturally divi-
Only then can a consultation become
things also clicked between us on a
ded themselves.
truly individual and ultimately leave the
personal level. We quickly realised that
Simone is the calmer, more reserved one
we wanted to shape not only our lives
and often connects with a different type
Many people talk about service — but
together, but also our professional future.
of customer than I do. I’m somewhat more
with you, what stands out above all is
At the time, however, there was still very
extroverted, enjoy talking and am constan-
time, calm and genuine attention. Why
little sign of the concept we have today.
tly thinking about new ideas, trends and
is this relaxed atmosphere so impor-
We started out in a fairly traditional way –
possibilities for developing our business
tant to your approach?
customer genuinely delighted.
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We live in a time when many products
of glasses truly the right one for
are becoming increasingly interchange-
someone?
able and much of the market is moving
You know you have found the right pair
towards fast fashion. Quality, individuality
when the customer puts them on with a
and personal needs often end up taking
big smile. It is especially rewarding when
a back seat.
people discover a completely new side of
That is exactly why we wanted to create
themselves with us. They often try frames
a place where people can slow down
they would never have considered on
and focus entirely on themselves. Not
their own – and end up loving them.
everyone is looking for the lowest price.
Those are exactly the moments that make
Many people are much more interested in
our work so special.
honest advice, high-quality products and
You carry an impressive selection of
the feeling of being genuinely seen and
brands. What criteria do you use when
understood. We want to provide the right
putting together your portfolio?
setting for that.
Before taking on a brand, we often look
Your store does not feel like a
into it very intensively. We continuously
traditional retail space, but more
develop our portfolio further – exclusively
like a place to arrive and settle
with independent labels.
in — with carefully selected frames,
Alongside exceptional quality, exclusivity,
thoughtful details and espresso. How
a collaborative partnership and good
consciously do you shape this experi-
communication are also essential to us.
ence for your customers?
We want to offer our customers brands
Very consciously. It has always been our
that are not available everywhere and
goal to be different from the traditional
that stand for genuine craftsmanship.
optical market. We want our customers
Today, people often experience a mo-
to enjoy spending time with us, have fun
dern optician online before they ever
choosing their new eyewear and remem-
enter the store. What role does your
ber their visit as a special experience.
website play before someone walks
For us, the atmosphere is an important
through your door for the first time?
part of that. Alongside a good espresso, it
Our website plays a very important role.
can just as easily be a cold drink. We also
It should spark curiosity even before the
regularly host special events that turn a
first visit and make people want to experi-
visit into something that goes beyond
ence the store for themselves.
simply buying a pair of glasses.
A modern, clearly structured presence
How would you describe your approach
was especially important to us. Alongside
to eyewear and style consultation?
our brand selection and the special atmos-
From your perspective, when is a pair
phere, visitors should be able to find ex-
Discover on FAVR Brillenhaus Toerschen 196
SPECTR // OPTICIAN SPECIAL
it all the better when current content is maintained automatically. For us, it provides real added value and saves an enormous amount of work. In addition, you have a FAVR website with its own CMS. How important is this independence to you as owneroperated opticians?
The digital world is constantly changing – often faster than you can respond to it yourself. That is why it is enormously important for us to be able to make smaller adjustments at any time without depending on external support. It allows us to remain flexible and keep our website up to date whenever necessary. Looking ahead, what do independent
“FOR US, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE PEOPLE. WE WANT OUR CUSTOMERS TO EXPERIENCE AN ATMOSPHERE THAT FEELS MORE LIKE A LIVING ROOM THAN A TRADITIONAL STORE.” (Daniel and Simone Toerschen)
opticians need most in order to remain locally relevant while also being visible digitally?
From our perspective, the most important thing is a clear concept with a clearly defined position. Anyone who wants to stand apart from the broader market needs the courage to follow their own path – with distinctive brands, a high-quality store
actly what they are looking for quickly –
How do these digital contents help
and an atmosphere that people genuinely
whether that is booking an appointment,
you make your brand world more
enjoy experiencing.
getting in touch or planning their route
visible online and inspire customers
At the same time, a modern digital pre-
directly to us in St. Tönis, Germany.
before they even visit the store?
sence is indispensable today. The web-
You use FAVR Smart Content Modules on
People have always enjoyed finding inspi-
site should communicate exactly what
your website. Why is it important to
ration in high-quality magazines. Today,
customers can expect when they later
you that the website remains lively
that process takes place predominantly
visit the store and make them want to
and up to date without requiring you
online.
discover that experience for themselves.
to constantly maintain the content
If we do not offer our customers that in-
yourselves?
spiration, someone else will. That makes
toerschen.com
When I first discovered the modules, I immediately knew they were a perfect fit for us. For a long time, I had intended to update our brand pages regularly and always keep them current. In everyday working life, however, that was hardly realistic. Then there was the time-consuming process of sourcing imagery and dealing with the respective usage rights. With the FAVR Smart Content Modules, that is effectively taken care of automatically. Our brand world stays current and we can easily expand or adjust our portfolio at any time.
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NIRVAN JAVAN »Shades of Milan 09«
Kayli
The Real Front Row: Barcelona
BARTON PERREIRA »Bhanot«
A PRIMERA VISTA
Towy
SPECTR Creative Heads Linda and Caro in
Juan
Barcelona
ETNIA BARCELONA
BLACKFIN
»90068C« 198
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Sofia
MOREL PAR JEAN NOUVEL
captured by CARO & LINDA
»Joanic«
»Altadena«
KALEOS
MARC O’POLO
»Seberg«
Dianna
»506247«
Barcelona thrives on contrasts. Between historic alleyways and modern architecture, quiet courtyards and bustling streets, the city unfolds its very own unique dynamism. Above all, however, it is the people who define Barcelona – with their openness, their individuality and their unmistakable style. For our little feature “The Real Front Row”, we’ve used the charming El Born district in Barcelona as the backdrop for spontaneous encounters and genuine personalities. No models, no castings, no elaborate styling. Because good eyewear design makes its mark not just in the studio, but above all where it’s worn: on the street, in the midst of everyday life.
DITA LANCIER
KADOR
»LSA-119«
Berry
»Antares«
Juan
Natalia
Gabriel
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J.F. REY »JF1576« blouse LANVIN VINTAGE
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SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
IN FU BL
J.F. REY »JF3156« shirt ROBERTO COLLINA
A Contemporary Portrait of Feminine Eyewear photography
OLIVER SPIES [Munich]
hair & make-up : SOPHIA LANGENECKER at NINA KLEIN styling : CHRISTINE BAUMANN models : EMMA at ELF MODEL MGMT & ELISABETH at TIGERS MGMT thanks to : ALTRA MODA, TRAUNSTEIN & PETRA MÜLLER BLUMEN
ULL LOOM
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BLACKFIN »Lanai« blouse ROBERTO COLLINA
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BLACKFIN »Dunmore« blouse PSOPHÍA necklace PLAN C
It is often the quiet contrasts that make an image series truly distinctive. In our latest collection shoot, contemporary women’s frames meet floral elements that lend the photographs an unexpected sense of calm and elegance. Photographer Oliver Spies creates a reduced aesthetic in which every detail finds its place, allowing the eyewear to make its impact through form and color. The flowers are far more than a decorative motif. They bring a quiet sense of humility to the images – an attitude that directs the eye towards what matters most and gives the frames space to unfold their effect without overstatement. At the same time, they underline the individuality of the models and create a harmonious counterpoint to the clear contours and expressive colors of the frames. The result is a visual language that feels feminine without drifting into the romantic, and modern without appearing cold. The curated selection from BARTON PERREIRA, BLACKFIN, ETNIA BARCELONA, J.F. REY, LUNOR, MOREL and OWP highlights
the diversity of contemporary women’s eyewear. Distinctive silhouettes, vibrant color worlds and fashion-forward shapes define the selection, giving each frame its unmistakable character. Together, they tell a story of design awareness, personality and the joy of expressive eyewear. SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT
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ETNIA BARCELONA »Es Mercadal« shirt STEFAN BRANDT silk scarf MANTERO 1902
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MOREL »Glyphe« blouse SUZAN cardigan JUMPER 1234
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BARTON PERREIRA »Mirando« blouse PLAN C
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OWP »2258« shirt CITIZENS OF HUMANITY necklace ALIITA
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LUNOR »A11 465« cardigan ROBERTO COLLINA shorts MODEL’S OWN
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SPECTR // FASHION SHOOT