SPECTR Issue 34

No. 34 // January 2022 // English // EUR 15,–

“SCARCITY”

front cover: »8801«

LIN DB ER G Sun Titanium »8803«

L I N D B ER G Sun Titanium »8802«

EYEWEAR DESIGN – INNOVATION – PRODUCTION gotti.ch

I M AGI N A RY L INES — EASTERN & BERMU DA O RGREENO P TICS.CO M

Julien

Founder of the Classic Racing School driving school Auvergne mountain racing circuit (Charade)

Brand: Engine: Model Names:

BRETT TITANIUM BLOCK JIM/PHIL/NIKI

Driving : fluid, regular, in the tradition of Jim Clark Caracter :

humble and determined

Vision : precise and peripheral thanks to the polarized lenses Specific features : block of titanium cut in the mass - weight : 18 g

brett_eyewear www.brett-eyewear.com

faceaface-paris.com / designeyeweargroup.com

01:02 (GMT)

#SEETHEWORLD

LONDON

lookocchiali.it

# N E W R I N A S C I M E N TO

mod. JF2970

mod. JF1508

@jfreyofficial

NEW ARRIVAL

2022 QUARZ

www.reiz.net

GRAMMES www.maison-henry-jullien.fr

Mod. SKYLIGHT 06 C56

cars.mclaren.com

Model MLSEDS0203

EMPOWERED

BY LIGHTNESS

Try it. Wear it. Love it.

R8030C

+++ NEW ON FAVR +++

56

58

60

62

ØRGREEN Scandinavian Eyewear At Its Finest

CUTLER AND GROSS British Eyewear Style Legends

MYKITA Sophisticated Designer Eyewear Made in Berlin

RIGARDS Eyewear Not For Hiding Behind

64

66

68

82

COLIBRIS Petite Frames With A Big Fashion Statement

88

FINE ART EYEWEAR

By Nocera & Ferri

CAROLINE ABRAM French Excellence In Eyewear Design

THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

By Markus Burke

100 104

ROCKET SCIENCE FOR EYEWEAR Kerl Eyewear Launches New Features

125TH STREET

By Florian Renner

VERY BRITISH, VERY STYLISH Insights Into Cutler And Gross

116

TRESPASSING BERLIN

By Haniball Saliba & Nicolas Schnabel

128 134 138 144

1980S HIGH-TECH SOUL Lindberg Sun Titanium Collection Takes Classics Into The Future

FIESTA ESPAÑOLA 20 Years Etnia Barcelona

HYBRID LIVING Hoffmann Natural Eyewear For Tradition And Modernity

HIGH TIDE LUNCH BREAK

By Narente

BREAKING PARADIGM With Gloryfy Unbreakable

ELECTRIC CITY

By Ulrich Hartmann

156 160 162 168

STRANDED, NEVER LOST ATELIER | CAMPAIGN | IMAGES Einstoffen Launches New Collection All New At Tarian

180 186 188 194

LEADING LADIES & THE MATSUDA APPROACH SECRET AGENTS Old World Technique, Barton Perreira Drops New Highlights New World Expression

FORWARD TO THE PAST Silhouette Launches Fashion Imperatives

LONDON DOPE FITS

By William Ferchichi

206 210 216 222

SISTERHOOD CONQUERS ALL Clémence & Margaux – A True French Connection 50

S P E C T R // C O N T E N T

OH, BOY...

Cazal – New Design Highlights

IN BALANCE MANSION TALES IN TWILIGHT Modo’s New Collection Approach

By Jana Edisonga

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, ETNIA BARCELONA!

The whole team behind SPECTR Magazine congratulates on 20 years of beautiful eyewear! Thanks for making the independent eyewear cosmos more artistic and colorful.

WELCOME WELCOME WELCOME WELCOME Y T I C R SCA with an issue #34

homage

to Bitcoin

*.

than 21 r be more e v e n l il e other ere w from all th rotocol, th e p id s in A o . c e it c ip, isten g to the B censorsh oins in ex Accordin tance to r digital c is s e ft re a , f tn h o g alizati is level o the sou y (decentr y, etc.), th c it million of il n b e a rr il u a c v to bal a e. f the cryp iency, glo y of all tim benefits o tion, effic a in m est mone ri b c is e d th age m in o o e fr g Bitc in? Th p freedom r in makin like Bitco to h c c u fa m y e d ak e upper limite scarcity is col sets th t’s strictly a to th ro e p y r rc u u so ine! O of scarcit Another re this type TR Magaz C e s E u P a S c f e o e ?B each issu ntion for ram. Why count of vel of atte t of 1 kilog h le r ig e e h w ig h m res a bsence maximu e, it ensu pplies: “A s a limit at a a c g r in u y o a s . In old here tes value s u e. T h e dustry, w also crea into the is e in our in it u tr s e y k ll nd a ia c m t that cturers a s espe r manufa er”. That’ all conten d fo n e fo lu a w v ro ed e heart g reate add makes th editions c d e it m li r ses o of scarce a couple rare relea s e s a c w favoue sho . bably our s, this iss ro n p io designers s it a d e t« ra Do of limited ultiplies the »Futu Speaking rity that m instance ra r l fo ra , tu s a e s n st y. By ble relea , it’s not ju of scarcit and valua hen again creation T l . ia e c u as ifi is rt a of the , it autom even rite style selection ious and t c c s u n d o c ro e p or en ut also th chain. Ev n offering value – b e supply ction of a th le f e o s t ls e ic v tr a rity nd gas n all le performin an air of ra applies o is te h ra T u is . c h rt d n an ecs.com ins in wo p selectio rm favrsp o o h tically ga s tf la ir p e r th u ol e y, o can contr cts from th By the wa opticians ey produ stomers. k u t c c ir le e e s th sing ness for ly showca exclusive ge by on a p e m a s act roducts. A on the ex dividual p in f . o s d e n lu ra va are mium b vates the customers most pre ven end ot only ele E n . y e it og rc a a n c a l, to m is rea pe Overall, s far easier n fatigue o io ls is a c e is (d n re often oices electio urney mo nge of ch focused s jo ra e n s w a o h d rc ble t a pu r a pared managea rmed tha thankful fo has confi ick from a p h rc rs a e e m s umers to custo ent re ding cons ion when ple!). Curr a rs le e , v g n in o c l helm uccessfu es overw leads to s ice becom o h c h c u ly). . Too m of choice indefinite selection ll kilogram ion (often is fu c is e d th ir y e jo th ou en postpone pe that y te, we ho o n t a th On ur money ontent! ally put o E tu c SP CTR c a e w od). gies, reater go technolo rve the g ting new e p s e s c ie c g a lo th chno sure e comes to nd we en s these te A a . * When it g in n o lo c it s (a in B d e. r mouth is payments a Full No where ou ccepting a n e e SD b operating y e b ’v e rk w o , 17 coin netw it Since 20 B e th f o d stability safety an

Let’s start

52

SPECTR // EDITORIAL

this

E E E E

IMPRINT

EDITOR IN CHIEF STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817 LAYOUT CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com EDITORIAL STAFF MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com PROOFREADING INSA MUTH [Dortmund] PETER ASHFORD [London] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] TRANSLATION DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] ONLINE EDITOR FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] online@spectr-magazine.com PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS MARKUS BURKE [Munich] JANA EDISONGA [Berlin] GÜNTHER EGGER [Innsbruck] WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich] NOCERA & FERRI [London] FLORIAN RENNER [London] HANIBALL SALIBA [Berlin] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf] NARÈNTE [Sardinia] NICOLAS SCHNABEL [Berlin] JAKOB WIECHMANN [Berlin] PUBLISHER

M O N S IEU R B LA N C »Thibault« “125th Street” by Florian Renner (pages 104–114)

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln, Deutschland t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com CEOS

COVER PHOTOS photography

ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin]

hair & make-up MELANIE HOPPE using PAT MC GRATH & ORIBE styling SKY BULTOVIC models JOSEPHINE LÜCK & LIN at IZAIO

54

S P E C T R // I M P R I N T

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK PRINT F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg, Deutschland fw-medien.de

MOD8042

NEW ON

Scandinavian design: Purist and on-point, also when applied to

Scan to try on ØRGREEN

3D-printing

FAVRSPECS.COM

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Scandinavian Eyewear At Its Finest ØRGREEN – WORLDFAMOUS DESIGN FROM DENMARK

In the year 1997, ØRGREEN OPTICS launched as a young upstart label ready to shake up the optical industry with lots of indie spirit.

Drawing on their stylistic roots in action sports, the three founders initially made a mark with striking sunglasses designs. Today, the Danish designer brand has ‘grown up’

ØR GR EEN Quantum High »Square Planet«

and enjoys a global reputation as a purveyor of high-end titanium optical frames. What’s more, ØRGREEN commands a high level of mastery in processing precious woods, horn, mother-of-pearl, and acetate. Not to forget 3D-printed materials via proprietary manufac-

Titanium »Bermuda«

turing technologies.

Today, a global fan community celebrates ØRGREEN designer eyewear. Products are

available via more than 200 opticians in Denmark and stores in 42 countries around the world. Despite the overwhelming success, the brand has retained its rebellious spirit and still enjoys defying conventions. For instance, by offering innovative blends of fine wood and titanium in combined frames, or brilliant color combinations for a unique finish. The foundation of ØRGREEN’s lasting success?

Must be the brand’s minimalist, timeless designs and their own high-tech developed in-house, currently on full display in the Quantum High Collection created via 3D-

Havn Stainless Steel »Cool Story«

printing.

Want to see what all the hype is about?

As the latest brand on FAVR, you can find select ØRGREEN models on our virtual try-on via webcam or smartphone cam. Plus, view an automated list of your nearest optical stores selling ØRGREEN. www.orgreenoptics.com

56

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

www.rolf-spectacles.com

NEW ON

Scan to try on CUTLER AND GROSS FAVRSPECS.COM

»1386«

»1394«

For Individuals with Great Taste CUTLER AND GROSS – BRITISH EYEWEAR STYLE LEGENDS With CUTLER AND GROSS, a true style legend

you want to see the tiny inaccuracies, the

in the eyewear universe is joining the FAVR

straight, raw edges of the plastic, the pins –

platform. Founded in 1969 by Graham Cutler

they give character, make them unique to the

and Tony Gross in Great Britain, the luxury

wearer. The CUTLER AND GROSS customer

label has built a legacy of functional and

has always been an individual. Eccentric may-

timelessly elegant eyeglasses designs. Even

be, but a rare breed, certainly.” With this kind

today, every piece of glasses and sunglasses

of mission statement, CUTLER AND GROSS is

by CUTLER AND GROSS is perfected in artisan

the perfect fit for the premium designer brands

workshops in Italy. With a love for detail and

cultivated on the FAVR eyewear platform.

individuality, the frames are numbered by

Welcome, gentlemen!

hand and adorned with minimalistic branding on the temple insides.

As co-founder Graham Cutler describes

Looking to see CUTLER AND GROSS eyewear on your face? You can test glasses from the new brand on FAVR via our virtual

the spirit of the independent brand: “If you buy

try-on and explore a list of your nearest optical

a handcrafted pair of glasses or sunglasses,

stores. www.cutlerandgross.com

58

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

CUTL E R AND GR O S S »1391«

“Mercedes-Benz“ and are the intellectual property of Daimler AG. They are used by ic! berlin under license.

NEW ON

Scan to try on MYKITA

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

FAVRSPECS.COM

MY KITA »Tobi«

Sophisticated Designer Eyewear MYKITA – 100% MADE IN BERLIN

»Keoma«

Almost 20 years ago, the eyewear business experienced a radical paradigm shift. The founding of MYKITA in 2003 brought a fresh, modern design language and unique brand communications into the mix. Since then, labels based in Berlin have emerged as major trendsetters on the indie eyewear scene, watched closely by other labels.

MYKITA still sets the bar high by always questioning the status quo

and continuously raising the level of design and manufacturing.

The label headed by founder and creative director Moritz Krueger

»Niken«

follows its own unique and fearless approach, appreciated by a global MYKITA fanbase. From the start, the label took control by bringing together all departments under one roof to form a modern factory. At the MYKITA HAUS in Berlin Kreuzberg, the team sees the product through every stage – from initial concept all the way to final products. What makes the MYKITA aesthetic so unique and their frames so recognizable? Most of all the clear form language, based on integrity towards materials and construction.

After setting out as an expert in processing stainless steel, MYKITA has mastered several other materials over the years. These include the proprietary Mylon material for realizing highly progressive designs via 3D-printing. In collaborations with other labels, the Berlin brand also creates state-of-the-art products and technical standouts. Highlights include the collab with Leica or the high fashion offering with Bernhard Willhelm. Customers can find MYKITA products at expert independent opticians as well as 18 MYKITA stores across the globe. www.mykita.com 60

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

NEW ON

Eyewear Not For Hiding Behind RIGARDS – DESIGNS THAT INVITE A SECOND LOOK Stylish eyewear fashion that invites a closer look. For indie label RIGARDS (from the word ‘regard’, meaning ‘look here’), the brand name is their motto: The designs of exclusive horn frames are everything but understated

Scan to try on RIGARDS

and make a strong statement as real eyecat-

FAVRSPECS.COM

chers. Not for everyone, but perfect for that self-confident someone. Upon closer inspection, the frames envisioned by designer Ti Kwa stand out via flawless finishes and premium value down to the smallest detail.

RI GARD S »RG0128CU«

Today, the art-inspired label serves a loyal, global fanbase. Wearers of RIGARDS appreciate the visible hand-hammered finish for the brand’s premium aluminum frames.

Plus, signature surface treatments that combine the craftsmanship of the past with modern sensibility and make every pair oneof-a-kind. As an endless source of inspiration, the brand engages in collabs with of-the-

R I GA R DS x Z IGGY CHEN »RG0161ZC«

moment artists and progressive designers.

The list includes the Inka-inspired capsule by Uma Wang x RIGARDS and the Ziggy Chen collab of frame-in-frame designs. What it all boils down to: With eyewear from RIGARDS, there’s always another reason for taking a closer look.

RIGARDS just joined the FAVR platform! So

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

now you can test-drive glasses on our virtual try-on via webcam and easily find stockists in a list of your nearest optical stores. www.rigards.com

R IGAR D S x U M A WA N G »RG00UW5«

62

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

NEW ON

Scan to try on COLIBRIS FAVRSPECS.COM

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Great Glasses For Small Faces

COLIBRIS – PETITE FRAMES WITH A BIG FASHION STATEMENT “Great glasses for small faces” was the battle cry for founding German eyewear label COLIBRIS in the year 2000. It was all about providing strong style statements for wearers with petite faces. And the success

»Sofia«

has been huge! The brand founded by master optician Susanne Reckzeh in the northern town of Lubeck went from inside scoop to international smash hit in a matter of years.

The COLIBRIS eyewear design DNA is all about enhancing the wearer’s natural beauty. Without looking bulky or overbearing, the stylishly formed frames flatter the most petite facial features. In terms of materials, COLIBRIS relies on high-grade components from controlled sources, including the signature,

COLIB R IS »Hanni«

brightly colored acetate. And thanks to rather low production volumes and short distances in the supply chain, the family business contributes to sustainability, one gorgeous frame at a time.

Currently, the trendsetters from Germany are showcasing their stylistic sensibilities in lines like the nature-inspired Animal collection. Hungry for more?

»Marika«

As the latest brand on FAVR, experience COLIBRIS with our online fitting technology – simply follow the virtual try-on button – and find an optician in your area as well. www.colibris.eu

64

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

NEW ON

Scan to try on CAROLINE ABRAM

»Iris«

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

FAVRSPECS.COM

CA R OLINE ABRAM »Capucine«

»Isee«

Cosmopolitan Flavor CAROLINE ABRAM – FRENCH EXCELLENCE IN EYEWEAR DESIGN Behind many brands in the eyewear universe

plemented in partnership with an all-women’s

is a highly gifted person. That’s also the case

team in Senegal, also emphasizes details and

for French premium label CAROLINE ABRAM.

craftsmanship. As a result, collections like the

Raised as the daughter of an optical surgeon

CAROLINE ABRAM tribute to Miami style and

father and a fashion boutique owner mother,

the SILMO Award-winning kids’ collection

Abram ingested a love of eyewear and

Tête A Lunettes range in a league of their

fashion from a young age. As early as 1998,

own. For a powerful introduction into the

she was already designing jewels, chains,

world of CAROLINE ABRAM, standout models

and magnifying glasses in a unique, vintage-

are now featured on FAVR.

inspired form language.

As the next logical step, the prodigy

debut on FAVR? You can test glasses on our

founded her own eponymous label in 2008:

virtual try-on via webcam or smartphone and

CAROLINE ABRAM represents fashion-forward

easily find stockists in a list of your nearest

designs and hand-picked materials. In her

optical stores.

eyewear, Abram likes to play with silver, wood, and precious stones. The manufacturing, im66

The best thing about CAROLINE ABRAM’s

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

www.carolineabram.com

FL EY E »Clara«

THE ARCTIC CIRCLE photography M A R K U S

B U R KE

[Denmark]

styling STUDIO 163 models JULIE VICTORIA &

MATHILDE LOUISE RASMUSSEN at LE MANAGEMENT

68

SPECTR

F LEY E »Elsie«

SPECTR

69

J.F. R EY »JF1510 4510«

70

SPECTR

J.F. R EY »JF1511 6080«

SPECTR

71

72

SPECTR

L I N D B ER G Spirit »2473«

LIN DB ER G Thintanium »5516«

SPECTR

73

MOR EL »60141M« & »20120K«

74

SPECTR

MOR EL »20120K«

SPECTR

75

MIN A MOTO »MN31009 Shino« & »MN31011 Hakuro«

76

SPECTR

M IN A M OTO »MN31011 Hakuro«

SPECTR

77

MASUNAGA »Swan Lake«

78

SPECTR

N EU B AU »Clara«

N EU B AU »Gabi«

SPECTR

79

LU N O R »M5 06«

80

SPECTR

LU N OR »A12 500«

CU TLE R AND G ROSS »1395« leather vest OBJECT dress MARC CAIN knitwear SECOND FEMALE skirt TIGER OF SWEDEN boots UNISA

82

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

[Berlin]

JAKOB WI ECH M ANN

FAVRSPECS.COM

a story by H ANI B AL L

SAL I B A

production FABRIKA PRODUCTION creative direction & styling HANIBALL SALIBA photography JAKOB WIECHMANN models HANNAH at MIRRRS MODELS, EMILY at MEGA MODELS

&

Scan to try on CUTLER AND GROSS

VERY BRITISH, VERY STYLISH

INSIGHTS INTO CUTLER AND GROSS CUTLER AND GROSS commands a tremendous heritage of stylish eye-

wear releases. Founded in 1969 in London’s Knightsbridge neighborhood by namesakes Graham Cutler and Tony Gross, the label cultivates a timeless aesthetic. It thereby achieves the rare feat of succeeding as a modern-day fashion label and classically trained optical brand.

Behind the scenes, this approach requires high standards and emphasis on quality across all segments of the company, as explained in our

SPECTR interview with CEO Fiona Reynard.

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

83

»1395« sweater HESS NATUR skirt TIGER OF SWEDEN

C UTL E R AND GR O S S »1392« vest OBJECT leather shirt MASSIMO DUTTI top RESERVED trousers MARC CAIN

84

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

Hi Fiona, what is the brand philosophy of

tory and heritage. We consider ourselves

CUTLER AND GROSS?

to be genuine. The stories we tell through

Our philosophy is based around authen-

our frames and brand DNA are real touch-

ticity, creativity, and attention to detail.

points in history, worn by influencers of

We control everything in-house from our

fashion, music, and art since the brand’s

design atelier to our own factory, through

inception in the 1960s. The shared history

to our marketing and communications

of our founders, coupled with some of

team. Having control over every element

the most talented creatives in the world,

of the creative process allows us to take

stretches back over 50 years. It provides

risks, and to experiment without diluting

a deep well from which we draw the

any of the brand’s essence.

brand’s essence.

What distinguishes you from the rest of the

Hardly any other eyewear label has been

market?

able to permanently position itself as a

Since we are an independent, family-

‘state-of-the-art’ brand over such a long

owned company, we don’t have to make

period of time. How do you maintain your

decisions solely for commercial reasons,

stake?

which allows for the passion in design to

We would not consider ourselves ‘state

shine through. Other brands have imagi-

of the art’. We would consider ourselves

ned stories, with most inventing their his-

timeless. We update our materials, hard-

lifeblood of a brand like ours. It cements our cult-like status in the industry. The final point, which has been a pillar of the brand since its inception, is the lack of a logo on the exterior of our frames. This doesn’t date the product and really reinforces the timeless qualities we espouse.

Does your clear positioning as a Londonbased label help you?

London is a hub of design, fashion, the arts and history. From the swinging ’60s up until today it has been a creative environment and home to some of the oldest and most creative fashion houses throughout time. This helps us a lot in terms of the meeting of creative minds, for example our collaborative partners like Paul Smith, Kingsman, and The Great Frog all have headquarters in London.

What is typically “British” about your brand?

C U T L E R AND GR O S S »1391« dress RESERVED vest OBJECT turtleneck FALKE

ware and designs around classic silhou-

As a consequence of empire and inward

ettes. Much like Land Rover or Porsche,

migration from the four corners of the

our frames have a distinctive shape. We

world, distilling what is “British” can be

improve, innovate, and hone our designs

very difficult. Our styles have a nod to Bri-

over the years to make sure even if the

tish sartorial style and tailoring. We make

shape is classic, the creative process

sure our frames fit like a bespoke suit

and improvements in materials and color

or tailored dress. That has always been

shine through to take the frame into the

important to us, given the brand’s roots in

modern era. We firmly believe that by

an optical store in Knightsbridge.

focusing on product development and

However, we always have the idea that

improvements, each pair of our glasses

we dare to be different, we are serious

stands the test of time.

about eyewear but also have a tongue in

On that note, in how far does your custo-

cheek sense of humor. Like our two foun-

mer base follow your evolution?

ders, Graham Cutler and Tony Gross, we

We often have sons and daughters of

have a practical and a creative side. Take

CUTLER AND GROSS customers coming

a look at some of our colorway names,

into our stores to buy because of their

our marketing material and our social

parents’ love of the brand. For us genuine

content to see that natural dichotomy

word-of-mouth recommendations are the

continue within the brand.

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

85

label?

I would say we straddle the line between both. We are the very definition of “fashion eyewear” and one of the first in that category. We have classic styles in the collection which have been present in some guise for 30 to 40 years, mixed with more trend-based products which are more in the fashion mode.

With these standards in mind, what is special about the CUTLER AND GROSS design?

The workmanship, attention to detail and consistency of our design language is special. To fans of eyewear throughout the globe, we are instantly recognizable from just a black and white silhouette. Not many brands have that recognition.

When it comes to materials, you really like to play with acetate. Why? That’s true, although throughout CUTLER AND GROSS history we have had combi-

nation frames, also titanium frames and used other materials as varied as alumiOn that note, how has the brand evolved

to make the product better with updated

num and perspex. Our focus with acetate

since the beginning?

materials but within the parameters of the

over the past few years has been on thi-

brand DNA.

cker 9mm and 10mm acetates and special

In 1969 the business started with our two founders who met as students in

Over the last decades, you’ve also grown

the opticians’ college. The shop used to

into quite the global powerhouse.

AND GROSS. Also, we have spent a lot of

craft frames upstairs, made to measure

On a commercial level, the brand is on a

time sourcing custom colors and transpa-

by a frame maker. Totally bespoke. We

different playing field, accelerating hugely

rent acetates revealing the hardware of

continued in this way until 1982 when

in the past three to four years. We now

the frames. In 2023 we will be launching

the first production model was made, the

have over 2,000 active doors in 60 coun-

something special that will continue our

0101. This was the catalyst for the brand’s

tries worldwide, with a major licensee in

explosion in the ’80s and ’90s as the cult

Paul Smith and a new collaboration with

That sounds exciting. As a traditional

eyewear company you see today.

The Great Frog to launch in May 2022.

source of finest acetate, Italy plays a spe-

We have very clear brand guidelines,

cial role for you?

Well, 1982 until 2022 is 40 years, right?

86

lamination techniques unique to CUTLER

brand DNA into metal.

Yes, and we are releasing an updated

we of course want to be successful, but

Italy is more than just a production loca-

model for the 40th anniversary – the

we pay very close attention to our DNA

tion. It is also home to our design studio,

»9101« which will be a limited edition,

which has remained a constant for over

and our creative hub. Having our produc-

gold-plated with Zeiss photochromatic

50 years.

tion facility downstairs under our studios

lenses. In terms of products, I think that

Speaking of brand DNA, do you see your-

allows our Creative Director to be ‘hands

explains a lot about the evolution. We aim

self as a fashion label or as an eyewear

on’ during prototyping. Every step of the

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

C U T L E R AND GR O S S »1393« shirt SELECTED FEMME knitwear OBJECT turtleneck FALKE trousers ESSENTIEL ANTWERP boots DR. MARTENS

process being scrutinized and improved. This allows for our prototypes to be better and better. Again, constant small improvements add up to make a huge difference to our final product. Some of our artisans in Italy have eyewear in their blood, having parents and grandparents in the industry who handed down their knowledge and craft.

Your campaigns rely on black and white in their visual language?

Reinforcing our timeless nature, we have kept the same visual language for over 40 years. Black and white is enduring, many companies have had to rebrand and recolor during their histories with trend colors being updated periodically.

We have used the same black and white font since 1982. This provides a huge consistent thread that runs throughout all our communications.

When it comes to aiming your communications, what does your typical target group look like?

We have quite a wide customer base, in males mostly 35+ creatives or professionals, normally city based. In females it already starts around 30. However, a lot of our frames are unisex, so it sometimes can be difficult to identify the end user.

Is this unisex design a new strategy or rooted in brand history?

This is a philosophy which started with Graham Cutler always using model numbers instead of names like ‘Juliet’ or ‘Romeo’. His theory was that a male would be unlikely to buy a frame called ‘Juliet’ and a female would be unlikely to buy a frame called ‘Romeo’. And we continue this tradition to this day.

Thanks for the interview, Fiona. www.cutlerandgross.com SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

87

wear manufactured in the Italian part of the Dolomite mountains using state-of-the-art craftsmanship. The company HQ with the ultra-modern

FINE ART EYEWEAR retouch NICOLE FROST

BLACKFIN represents titanium eye-

»Simos«

office and production facilities is surrounded by breathtaking landscapes.

BLACKFIN prioritizes the light weight

and longevity of its products.

BLACKFIN 88

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»McDowell«

photography & set design NO CERA

& FE RRI

[London]

»St. Helen«

For company founder Sven Götti eyewear design is a fascinating and challenging passion. And one in which he has amassed unparalleled expertise. The Swiss designer brand is a star in the independent eyewear universe, also thanks to technical innovations and designs that push the boundaries.

NEW PREMIUM STYLES FOR FAVR

»King«

GÖTTI

»Magee«

»Dreyer« S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

89

“Icons or Heroes?” Definitely the latter, as founder Joey Diekman chose HELDEN as the name for his Dutch indie label. The brand stands out by timeless and calculated designs with a purist form language.

Based in the small town of Zwolle in the

»Vliegtuig«

Overijssel province, the brand delivers heroic eyewear to fans across the globe.

»alu NINE«

HELDEN 90

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»15«

»2306«

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR

»2324«

German pioneers of sustainable eyeglasses with a global following. HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is known as ‘Masters of Horn’ but

also plays masterfully with materials such as wood or silk, even blended with premium titanium. Supported by state-of-the-art precision in manufacturing, the natural frames meet the standards of the most demanding wearers.

»T87522«

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

91

»Thor«

KIRK&KIRK »Lotus«

»Storm«

Acrylic eyewear in bold colorways is the calling card of British label KIRK & KIRK. The perfect glasses to stand out and make an individual appearance, also thanks to their sculpted and thick material. But make no mistake, KIRK & KIRK eyeglasses are still fantastically lightweight and comfortable. When it comes to color intensity, the label based in Brighton clearly 92

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

ranges in a league of its own.

LUNOR has risen to global fame by manufacturing classic

and understated eyewear in a conscious and sustainable manner. One of the early fans included Apple founder

»A12 507«

Steve Jobs, who made the German label’s »Classic Rund« model his signature optical frame.

»A11 457«

LUNOR

»A6 251« S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

93

Launched in 2011, METROPOLITAN combines on-point designs with an urban aesthetic. The label’s classy form language is matched by high-grade finish and meticulous quality. With their timeless aesthetic, METROPOLITAN eyeglasses are reminiscent of the classic 1920s sci-fi movie of the same name – and bound to never go out of style.

»8108«

METROPOLITAN

»8107«

»8270«

94

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

MIGA STUDIO is the defini-

tion of a modern classic

»Poppy«

label in a globalized world.

It is rooted in Italy’s intense emotions and cultural richness mixed with the minimal, futuristic sensibilities thriving in Japan. Being modern is an attitude, and MIGA STUDIO embodies this through its play of materials and shapes.

MIGA STUDIO »Speca«

»Scuba«

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

95

Hailing from Fredensborg north of Copenhagen, this Scandina-

»Self Control SC15«

vian eyewear powerhouse specializes in advanced 3D-printing technology. Over the years, MONOQOOL has perfected

additive manufacturing technologies to a point of mastery that requires no screws in their robust constructions. The resulting eyewear is ultra-stylish and comfortable to wear, while also highly adjustable to the individual wearer’s anatomy.

MONOQOOL

»Utopia UT21«

»Brand New Friend BN47« 96

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

RAEN (pronounced ‘rain’) is a rising

star among global indie labels in the lifestyle segment. Aimed at a young and design-driven audience, the brand with roots in surf culture represents Californian style with a penchant for quality. Designed in the California beach town of Oceanside, RAEN’s acetate, metal, and

titanium frames are

»Nevill«

the darlings of style-savvy urbanites across the world.

»Cleese«

»Peele«

RAEN S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

97

»Myrte«

ROBERT LA ROCHE ROBERT LA ROCHE operates in a

class of its own. With strong roots in the design of the wild 1970s, the Austrian brand is firmly positioned at the intersection between fashion and art. Founded by the designer of the same name, the indie brand has long-since become a favorite among Hollywood stars and VIPs and still keeps the hits coming.

»Moloco«

»Marc« 98

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»Hillier«

SALT.

»Knox« »Madison«

SALT. eyewear is firmly inspired by

the natural beauty of California and the beaches, mountains, deserts, and coastal regions across the Golden State. Did you know? The brand name is an acronym for “Sea, Air, Land and Timelessness”. These four aspects form the brand DNA for this influential and young American label, from product design all the way to gorgeous ad campaigns.

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

99

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Scan to try on KERL EYEWEAR FAVRSPECS.COM

Rocket Science In The Eyewear Ecosystem KERL EYEWEAR LAUNCHES NEW FEATURES

German carbon eyewear specialists KERL EYEWEAR achieved numerous evolutionary breakthroughs over the last year. Aside from a new, expressive collection of eyewear, the brand launched innovative technical features. Plus, a new state-of-the-art online configuration tool for opticians and end consumers. SPECTR got the lowdown from KERL co-founder Dr. Jaro Ufer.

Hello Jaro. You guys launched KERL EYE-

Not necessarily. There are also extremely

WEAR five years ago. What has been your

What role do your personal professional

good products from Asia and other coun-

core mission since then?

backgrounds play in the mix?

tries. When it comes to our eyewear, I’m

We’re bringing rocket science into the

Without our personal background in the

still convinced that we can only achieve

eyewear ecosystem and creating the

high-tech industry, we would have had

the current level of quality, exclusivity, and

world’s lightest eyewear frames.

neither the development methods nor the

the pace of our advancements by contin-

That’s summarized in your claim ‘Eyewear

tools to create our own technologies. And

Driven by Technology.’ In how far does this

we’d probably have a different thought

Many manufacturers focus on advertising

process.

their lightweight frames. What’s different

maxim guide your actions as a brand?

We’re fully living this claim. As total tech

100

functionality.

Made in Germany is an integral part of

uing to produce in Germany.

about the lightness of KERL?

fans, we just love new technologies and

KERL EYEWEAR. Does that still count as a

You don’t see the lightness in the designs

being able to transform them into new

seal of quality?

of our frames. They have really fat,

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

»Carb-013«

KE R L »Carb-101«

»Carb-019« The Masters of Carbon – KERL has perfected the premium hightech material like few other brands in the eyewear game.

»Carb-003 SUN«

expressive contours and still play in the

bon. But you can only reach the perfect

same weight class as rimless eyeglasses.

characteristics for a certain application if

Perhaps we’re not entirely neutral ob-

No other manufacturer in the world can

you go and match the types of fibers and

servers, but here’s a quick comparison:

reach this kind of proportion between

structures to that specialized application.

Titanium tends to be hyped as the abso-

thinking?

visible thickness of the rims and the low

What are the advantages compared to con-

lute high-end material for eyewear. But

weight on the wearer’s nose.

ventional carbon?

Flexarbon® only weighs a third of titanium

As a carbon specialist, you’re incredibly

It is far more flexible and stable than

while offering a specific – meaning com-

proud of your proprietary Flexarbon® mate-

conventional carbon. That’s why we can

pared to its weight – solidity that is more

rial. Please tell us the details?

implement it into thinner frames, which

That’s our specialized carbon for the eye-

also brings down the weight factor.

wear industry. You need to be aware that

You’ve already called it “the best eyewear

there are billions of different types of car-

material in the world”. Is that wishful

than ten times greater.

What other technical features make your offering unique?

For a comprehensive range of adjustaS P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

101

The packaging mirrors the label’s high technical standards…

…also reflected in the innovative hinges featured in styles like the bold »Carb-101« that remains surprisingly lightweight despite its strong silhouette.

bility to the customers’ head shape, we

photo-realistic 3D-display of our eyewear

collection. What makes these new styles

have developed a building block system

models including the complex carbon

stand out?

for temples that can be exchanged super

surfaces as well as the deep, three-

This new collection strategically leve-

easily. The foundation is a patented hinge

dimensional polished finish. This allows

rages the advantages of Flexarbon®.

that can be assembled without tools or

customers to personalize their own KERL

We are offering a series of extremely

screws.

eyeglasses in a highly realistic interface.

expressive frames that offer an incom-

Another innovation is your eyewear

In how far do you integrate opticians into

parable comfort of wear. Back in the day

configurator that provides customers with

the process?

looking great often required some sort

a state-of-the-art tool for customizing

The optician is at the center: With its own

their own eyeglasses. Where did that idea

log in, the configurator is displayed with

originate?

optician’s logo. When the customer at the

Are you introducing new technical features

During the coronavirus pandemic, we

store shows an interest in KERL eyewear,

in the line?

were forced to change our way of thin-

but is not able to find the perfect shape,

We’re constantly advancing our eyeglas-

king. We wanted to offer our opticians

color or size right away, they can sit

ses. The latest detail is a hinge axis craf-

a high variety of products even with a

down with the optician and configure the

ted from a rather robust and low-friction

rather small stock of eyewear.

perfect style and fit of a frame on the iPad

polymer that makes our hinges even

or laptop.

more precise and durable.

What makes the configurator excel above the rest?

Among other features, we achieved a 102

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

The configurator also allows for customizing models from the new HEAVY-light

of compromise on comfort, but that’s no longer the case.

Jaro, thanks so much for the update. www.kerl-eyewear.com

H O FFM A N N NAT UR AL EY EWEA R »2278« jacket DIESEL

HOF F MA N N N ATU R A L EY EWEA R »2242« top NINETY PERCENT

104

SPECTR

125TH STREET photography FLO R I A N

R EN N ER

[London]

art direction KATE GOODE styling HOLLY MACNAGHTEN assisted by DANIEL GRAY hair SVEN BAYERBACH at CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT using BOUCLÈME make-up LINDA JOHANSSON using BURTS BEES & LASH STAR models ACHAN BIONG at PRM, JENNIFER VALNES at MODELS1, JAMES HICKOK at KULT MODELS, TAYO ARE at SUPA

SPECTR

105

M O N S I EUR B LA N C »Thibault« shirt ALLSAINTS jacket ACNE STUDIOS

106

SPECTR

I- SPAX »Lea« jacket LEVI’S

SPECTR

107

CUTL E R AND GR O S S »1390« jumpsuit STELLA MCCARTNEY

108

SPECTR

C U T L ER A N D GR O S S »1388« jacket ELIE TAHARI top RICK OWENS pants CITIZENS OF HUMANITY

SPECTR

109

COLI BRI S »Bella« jumpsuit STELLA MCCARTNEY

110

SPECTR

SA LT. »Ventura« blue jacket LEVI’S jacket underneath DIESEL

SPECTR

111

MA R C O’ POLO »SUN Classics 506185« top GOLDSIGN pants CITIZENS OF HUMANITY

112

SPECTR

MA R C O’ P OLO »SUN Metal 505066« shirt ALLSAINTS pants LEVI’S

SPECTR

113

MA RKUS T »Mio P1010« jacket LEVI’S

114

SPECTR

KO B ER G »KT 6053« jacket STRELLSON trousers MASSIMO DUTTI shirt ZARA

TRES 116

SPECTR

KOB ER G »KT 6052« dress TIGER OF SWEDEN boots BILLI BI tights FALKE

PASSING BERLIN a story by H A N IB A LL

SA LIB A & N ICOLAS SCHN A B EL

[Berlin]

production FABRIKA PRODUCTION creative direction & styling HANIBALL SALIBA photography NICOLAS SCHNABEL hair & make-up CHRISTINE BENZINGER at BIGOUDI model MARIA at MIRRRS MODELS & ERIK at SEEDS MODELS photo assistants BEN SIEBER & TIZIAN MACHTOLF

SPECTR

117

CA Z A L »Mod 8505« jacket BA&SH

118

SPECTR

CA Z AL »Mod 790/3« leather trench coat COS vest TIGER OF SWEDEN

SPECTR

119

R OB ERT LA ROCH E »Malkovich« leather jacket DRYKORN shirt ADIDAS SVR

120

SPECTR

R O D EN STO C K »R 3329« jumpsuit KARL LAGERFELD blouse SOPHIE SCHNOOR boots BILLI BI

SPECTR

121

B L ACKF IN »Fishbourne« leather shirt MINIMUM trousers DIESEL

122

SPECTR

B LACKF IN »Paros« sweater RESERVED trousers JACK AND JONES

SPECTR

123

S IL H O U ETTE »Purist 5561 LA 7000« vest COS shirt STUDIO SEIDENSTICKER leather trousers AMI PARIS

124

SPECTR

S ILHOU ETTE »Purist 5561 LH 5540« dress OBJECT

SPECTR

125

INV U »B4211A« shirt MASSIMO DUTTI

126

SPECTR

128

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

HA RTMA N N

[Berlin]

models NATHALIE BLENDERMANN at BOSS MODELS & NILS EMIL BREMER at PMA hair MELANIE HOPPE using T3 MICRO make-up MONICA KARSAI styling DANIEL BLECHMAN photo assistant ANN CHRISTIN FELMET

photography U LR ICH

L IN DB ER G Sun Titanium »8802«

1980s HIGH-TECH SOUL LINDBERG SUN TITANIUM COLLECTION TAKES CLASSICS INTO THE FUTURE

Eyewear models from Scandinavian designer

advanced titanium frames. In our previous

label LINDBERG not only grace the cover of

issue of SPECTR, we showcased the Thinta-

the current issue. They are also the eye-

nium collection of incredibly light (a mere 3.0

catchers of this collection shoot, for which

grams!) and technically advanced frames.

Ulrich Hartmann was on the road with his

This evolutionary thread now finds its

team in wintry Berlin. The stars of the show:

direct continuation in the Sun Titanium

pieces from LINDBERG’s new Sun Titanium

Collection of 1980s-inspired sunglasses. “The

Collection.

new designs utilize the signature features of

Wearers across the globe cherish LIND-

our Thintanium collection. The thin titanium

BERG’s signature blend between minimalistic,

frame grants the designs a future retro feel

on-point designs and boundary-pushing

that is sure to make a statement,” said Henrik

mastery crafting some of the world’s most

Lindberg, Founder, CEO, and Creative Director.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

129

Retro Style Meets Futuristic Craftsmanship Executed in lightweight and premium titanium, frames in the Sun Titanium Collection interpret staples of 1980s eyewear design in LINDBERG’s signature reduced-to-the-max

style. Expect oversized and petite versions of quintessential frame designs like aviators, cat eyes, squares, and round frames. One of the standouts: Athletic ‘shield’ sunglasses – think the kind of full-front wraparounds now brought back by fashion influencers – in a unique, two-lens construction.

“What would otherwise be a one-lens

LINDBERG Sun Titanium »8333«

»8334«

130

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

design has been split in two with a very

hinges alongside premium Zeiss lenses with

narrow bridge, given it the shield appearance

anti-reflex coating for full UV-protection. Want

while still having the flexibility of having two

extra sun protection? Sure! Select models

lenses. Truly state of the art eyewear!” said

also include effective and timelessly cool

Henrik Lindberg.

looking side shield elements. Speaking of

Further pushing the boundaries, the Sun

cool, finer details include acetate or com-

Titanium Collection is built on customization.

posite elements combined with the refined

For the ultimate precise fit, wearers can cus-

elegance of titanium.

tomize the length of the temples and adjust the bridge and nose pads to their exact spe-

Meet the three stars of this issue’s cover shoot: The »8801« embodies the futuristic

cifications. Every frame is custom-made and

take on shield sunglasses in LINDBERG’s

hand finished. For added value, the frames

two-lens design and a pronounced rim. For

implement LINDBERG’s proprietary screwless

a classic aviator with a high-tech soul, check

»8332«

»8329«

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

131

LI NDB E R G Sun Titanium »8330«

»8803«

out the »8802« in a luxury, ultra-light titanium

With so many personalized choices, it’s

finish. Another future classic is the »8803«:

up to wearers to find their perfect match.

Laced with gold accents across bridge and

“Style is all about perspective and for

temples, the square, never boring frame is

sunglasses it’s no different – that’s why the

definitive magazine cover material. And since

essence of the LINDBERG sun collection is

the cover is not enough, we’re showcasing

diverse points of view. With the endless pos-

more styles from LINDBERG’s new offering

sibilities of custom sunglasses, no look is out

here in a dedicated collection shoot.

of reach!” said Henrik Lindberg. www.lindberg.com

132

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

ET NIA BAR C ELO N A »The Kahlo«

134

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

»The Kubrick«

»The Kahlo«

XX

»The Einstein«

»The Kennedy«

20 Years Etnia Barcelona still photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ, campaign images & packshots ETNIA BARCELONA

Big news! Spanish designer brand ETNIA BARCELONA is celebrating its 20th anniversary and our entire team here at SPECTR congratulates. The brand from the Catalonian fashion hotbed has made a name for itself on the international scene over the past two decades. The fashion-savvy optical and sunglasses designs are the darlings of opticians and fans across the globe.

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

135

ETN IA B A RCELONA »The Kubrick«

»The Kahlo«

»The Einstein« Xim am illo velibus net magnisc imolest, quatend ucillatem. Xim am illo velibus net magnisc imolest, quatend ucillatem.

Over the years, ETNIA BARCELONA has laun-

at ETNIA BARCELONA is in a constant state

brand’s early days for unique color combina-

ched many milestone styles and models. The

of euphoria. This sense of emotionality has

tions. For added detail, each temple tip is

label especially wowed audiences by adding

been the driving force and constant inspira-

adorned by an exclusive artwork created for

a strong dose of color to the mix, always in

tion for a long line of decisions and releases,

each model: an eye icon paired with symbols

a modern and young manner. That’s why the

including every single frame style, colorway,

like a pyramid or long eyelashes in tribute to

label also attracts so many followers from

and advertising campaign.

the book ‘A Clockwork Orange’ by Anthony

young generations.

Another key to success for ETNIA BARCE-

136

The uplifting feeling continues into the special 20-year anniversary collection.

Burgess and the blockbuster film version by Stanley Kubrick.

LONA lies in collaborations, of which there

Released just in time for the big milestone

have been plenty. Most importantly, collabs

date, four acetate models pay tribute to the

continues the long love affair between eye-

with renowned artists have created strong

long and wild history of ETNIA BARCELONA.

wear design, art, and culture. So there’s plen-

fashion statements accompanied by even

Available in colorways yellow, blue, moss

ty to look forward to over the next 20 years.

stronger storytelling. It’s all part of the brand’s

green, and baby pink, the frames bring back

Happy birthday ETNIA BARCELONA!

positive vibe. In their own words, the team

the classic chess acetate pattern from the

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

With that said, the anniversary collection

www.etniabarcelona.com

Carefully appointed details ornament the four models in the 20-year anniversary collection.

Plus, the XX-logo represents the anniversary year in Roman numerals, featured on the frames alongside symbols on the temple tips.

ETN I A B A R CELON A »The Kennedy« SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

137

138

H ARTMA NN

[Berlin]

hair & make-up TINA PACHTA styling SKY BULTOVIC photo assistant ANN CHRISTIN FELMET models LEONIE MÜLLER & PHILIPP KNEUER at VIVA MODELS

photography ULRI CH

HYBRID LIVING

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

H OFFMANN N ATU RAL EYEWEAR »ST02«

-

coat BRACHMANN

brown dress FRANZISKA MICHAEL

white dress NINA ATHANASIOU

Scan to try on HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR FAVRSPECS.COM

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR FOR TRADITION AND MODERNITY

No, not everything was better back in the day. But some things were clearer. For instance, it was easier to group people into categories.

There was the modern type, often with an affinity for technology and always on top of the latest trends. Anyone not residing in places like Berlin, Barcelona or New York had a hard time keeping up with this elite cosmopolitan community. On the other hand, you had a clientele with a more sustainable attitude. Not necessarily backward or offtrend, but just different. In between, there were some grey areas, but the polar stereotypes proved significant.

Nowadays everything is different. In all commercial segments, hybrid consumers have become the norm. In their truest form, hybrid

HOF F M ANN NAT U RAL E Y EWEA R »ST03«

consumers tend to adapt their demand to the current situation, alter-

-

That makes them tech-oriented on one hand, for example by owning

shirt BRACHMANN

the latest smartphone and tablet and counting among first-day Tesla

black leather shirt NINA ATHANASIOU

drivers while having preordered the Sono solar energy vehicle. On the

jacket FRANZISKA MICHAEL

other hand, these same consumers now demand premium products

nating purchase behaviors as needed. Upon closer inspection, we’re also seeing a different type of hybrid. The formerly stereotypical consumers are giving up their positions in favor of becoming hybrids.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

139

H O FFM A N N NAT UR A L EY EWEA R »R806« outfit STEINROHNER

140

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

with longevity and a certain haptic sensation only achieved by leather, linen, wood, or paper. The type of natural appeal that comes from sustainably manufactured and authentic products. The guiding principles include reduction, mindfulness, slow fashion. Through it all, this new hybrid consumer is as demanding as they come. When all these demands are met by a single product, the consumer is in a state of bliss, especially when products fulfill a clear purpose but are also marked by a clean design language and fresh aesthetic.

Looking at the eyewear market, a select few brands can achieve this balance. Especially keeping in mind that eyewear is not a situational product but worn steadily over long periods of time. A single product needs to represent the consumer’s complex mindset entirely.

When it comes to brands who check all the boxes in this demanding mix, look no further than German pioneers HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR. With their focus on working with high-grade natural materials

– most prominently horn – processed manually in local manufacturing sites at the highest level of craftsmanship, the indie label churns out products blending sustainability and beauty.

Also working in favor of HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is the

HOF F M ANN NAT U RAL E Y EWEA R »2327/58«

feeling of comfort of wearing natural horn frames. With its warmth and

leather shirt NINA ATHANASIOU

H OF F MA N N N ATU R A L EY EWEA R »325D« SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

141

H O FFM A N N NAT UR A L EY EWEA R »2332/47« outfit FRANZISKA MICHAEL ring NINA ATHANASIOU

adaptability to the wearer, horn never went out of style. Plus, the experts know a thing or two about forming the classic eyewear material into new interpretations accentuated by fine details. In the most current collection, you will find the time-honored horn frame with a highly trendy double bridge design, among others. When it comes to colorways, the German designer label also continues to surprise and push the boundaries. One of our favorites is the »2332/47 1339« model in rich green, captured masterfully in this Collection Shoot by photographer Ulrich Hartmann.

Taking a closer look at the new campaign, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR dazzles with a cosmopolitan vibe and self-confident imagery.

The brand has become more modern in its style, yet without losing any authenticity. After all, the main calling card of the eco-conscious label requires no flashy marketing gimmicks and remains unchanged for years: The world’s finest natural horn frames at the top level of craftsmanship. And since quality and longevity will always be trending, the new generation of hybrid consumers can find what they’re looking for in HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR collections. www.hoffmann-eyewear.com 142

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

HIGH TIDE LUNC BREAK photography, art direction & casting N A R ÈN TE,

LU CIO A R U + F R A N CO ERRE

hair & make-up DANIELA DESSÌ styling ANNALISA M. LILLIU models CLARA ENNA at ELITE MILAN + LA REPRESENTS, GINEVRA ROSETTI at LA REPRESENTS set assistant GIORGIA FOZZI

144

SPECTR

[Sardinia]

ØRGREEN »Libra« coat CHIARA BERTANI vest CRUSH

H

ØR GR EE N »Nørrebro« coat NIU FASHION pullover MAX MARA pants MEMJS

SPECTR

145

GÖTT I »DC11« cardigan STELLA PARDO

146

SPECTR

MASUNAGA »Kabuto« coat NIU FASHION teddy PINK MEMORIES shoes DR. MARTENS

SPECTR

147

EI N STO F F EN »Tausendsassa« trench coat YEKATERINA IVANKOVA pullover STELLA PARDO

148

SPECTR

EI N STO FFE N »Starlet« trench coat YEKATERINA IVANKOVA

SPECTR

149

R O L F S P EC TAC L ES »Etna« coat NIU FASHION, teddy PINK MEMORIES, pants MEMJS ITALIA

150

SPECTR

COLIB R IS »Zera« pullover LETIZIA DENARO, pants MEIMEIJ, beach towel KING LOUIE, shoes SANTONI SPECTR

151

CA R OLIN E ABRAM »Hailey« coat MEMJS ITALIA pullover FLO’ – LET THE FLOWERS FLOW

152

SPECTR

CA R OL I NE ABRAM »Estrella« coat NIU FASHION turtleneck CHIARA BERTANI

SPECTR

153

H EN RY J U L L I EN »SKYLIGHT S 06« pullover CHIARA BERTANI

154

SPECTR

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Swiss label EINSTOFFEN is taking major strides in 2022 lost The almost with the new collection Stranded, never lost.

100 new products include two special eyeglasses – »Imker« (beekeeper) and »Honigdieb« (honey thief) – that carry special meaning to co-founder Philippe Rieder.

EIN STOFFEN »Rennfahrer«

»Illustrator«

»Ornithologe«

»Schlawiner«

156

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

Scan to try on EINSTOFFEN FAVRSPECS.COM

Stranded, Never Lost EINSTOFFEN LAUNCHES NEW COLLECTION

EINSTOFFEN frames dazzle with detailed ornaments and elaborate

…but also commands a clean form language in eyewear design.

finishing…

Hello Philippe, what’s behind the title of

How important is looking ahead into the

The colors are happier and more vibrant

lost your new collection Stranded, never lost?

future for your brand?

thanks to innovative shades of Havana

That has a lot to do with our own self-

In these uncertain times we find it espe-

and experimental color gradients. Overall,

image. Setbacks, struggling, stumbling,

cially important to maintain and spread

we are offering far more colorways per

and getting stranded are part of every

a kind of baseline optimism. You’re not

model than before. The shapes have

company and life story. Often they are un-

getting past a crisis by curling up into

also become more adventurous. We’re

avoidable. But it’s how we deal with them

a ball. You need to risk something. We

experimenting with thick acetate, beveled

that makes us who we are. When you’re

cultivate this anti-cyclical approach since

edges and daring titanium constructions.

going through life with your eyes open,

our support initiative for opticians in early

What’s more, we’ve perfected our new

you’ll find new routes towards your goal

2020. The new Stranded, never lost

»E«-wood metal temples to reach a higher

in the most unlikely places. New opportu-

collection represents our unbroken belief

level of stability and a more refined look

nities or ways of thinking often originate

in the future. And we’re launching almost

in times of crisis or defeat. Getting back

100 new products.

in our frames.

It’s also part of your DNA to name your

up, carrying on. That’s a bit like the un-

How is this optimism reflected in the

eyewear styles after occupations. What’s

official EINSTOFFEN creed.

collection?

the story?

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

157

EIN STOF F EN »Honigdieb«

»Imker«

With the »Honigdieb« (honey thief) and »Imker« (beekeeper) models EINSTOFFEN supports repopulation initiatives for wild honey bees in Switzerland.

Yes, it’s traditionally been our concept to

honeybees in Switzerland and Europe.

name our eyewear models after jobs. In

Now we are joining forces with the Swiss

a broad sense, I might add, since some

bee protection organization FREE THE

terms like »Schwarzfahrer« (illegal passen-

BEES to repopulate free-living honeybees

ger) or »Ganove« (crook) may pop up. But

in Switzerland by donating 10% of the pro-

the concept has been working and creates

ceeds of sales from the two new models,

some sort of suspense for the models and

plus the Christmas initiatives surrounding

their stories. Especially the unconventional

our fashion products such as shirts, hoo-

jobs.

dies, t-shirts, and watches.

What are some standouts?

of the bees and the eyewear business, or

the »First Lady« to the »Kopfgeldjäger«

perhaps the EINSTOFFEN story?

(head hunter) and »Professor« as well as

Beekeeping is really similar to eyewear or

»Smutje« (ship’s cook). But our favorites

fashion – it requires a change of thought

are really the kind of occupations that are

on a holistic level. We are working to-

obscure or even obsolete, like »Hafner«

wards placing the bees and their survival

(oven builder), »Hutmacher« (hat maker)

at the center of the narrative, not the

or currently »Imker« (beekeeper) and

maximum yield of honey. From a sustain-

»Honigdieb« (honey thief).

ability angle, we do indeed notice some

The two latter models are part of your

analogy to independent eyewear culture.

brand-new line. What are the stories?

This brings the story of the bees, the mot-

For the photo shoot in the middle of our

to of our collection and the unchained

current look book we followed a traditio-

philosophy behind EINSTOFFEN full circle:

nal beekeeper in Iran on the job. Definitely

The optical business will blossom more

an eye-opener!

when it’s free and independent, so even

In how far?

The beekeeper’s story really raised our awareness for the disappearance of wild 158

Do you see any parallels between the fate

It’s been quite the collection so far. From

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

small players can achieve great things.

Thanks for the interview, Philippe. www.einstoffen.de

CHARMANT GmbH Europe| charmant.de

photos TARIAN

All New At TARIAN.PARIS: Atelier, Campaign, Collection.

Hi Jérémy, it’s been a few years since our last visit to Paris. How have you been?

Extremely good! Paris has gotten a lot of energy. The past two years were a challenge and opportunity to change our way of living. And also a way to rethink eyewear. I now have the chance to carry out several artistic activities including ceramics and drawings, which is a huge source of inspiration for my eyewear design.

A lot has happened at TARIAN. The most obvious is your new studio. What was the reason for moving?

Creating eyewear means opening your eyes. I loved my previous studio in Paris, but as time goes on, we needed more space and a new energy. I was looking for a new space to also rethink our way of working.

What are some improvements at the new studio?

TARIAN is celebrating its tenth brand anniversary with a couple of new

My new studio is a combination of an office, a ceramic atelier with

initiatives: New eyewear collections and a new campaign. What makes

a wonderful oven, an eyewear showroom and a living room. It’s

brand founder Jérémy Tarian especially happy is the new studio near

all in the same place. I established my new atelier in a historical

the Place des Vosges.

building, Hotel de Melun, built in the 17th century close to Place

Stylish new showroom for TARIAN in chic Paris style.

160

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

Light and colors are the

...gorgeously expressed

central themes of the new

in vibrant flower arrange-

collection…

ments.

des Vosges. The atelier is open to everyone upon appointment,

ers came naturally as a starting point for my new collection and

and especially to our dearest worldwide opticians. I also open it

campaign. I worked with a flower artist in Paris, Pauline Monnier,

for children’s ceramics classes during the weekend. It’s a space

and my dear photographer and friend Kate Fichard with almost

for living!

ten years of taking pictures, to create our new visuals that match

What were your criteria for furnishing the place?

all our new acetate colors.

The new atelier is located in an old art gallery. The high ceilings

You have just launched the new collection Play. What is special

and space were the base of the decoration. I opted for furniture

about this collection?

that can match the color palette of my eyewear and ceramics. The

I am working more and more on mixing materials, like titanium and

»earth color« or terracotta is the base. I mix it with old classic stan-

acetate. But also refining the treatment of these materials. The

dard and wooden floor and old large windows with some contem-

Play collection is a combination of acetate layers that we laser

porary pieces, and, of course, my favorite timeless furniture: USM

cut. Starting with three fundamental colors, each acetate part has

Haller. Flowers and plants play a major role in my new studio.

been laser-cut to reveal both the useful and the beautiful, and

To what extent are you influenced by your other personal interests?

I enjoy drawing, painting and ceramics. The mixture of materials,

upset aesthetic codes.

In the Patchwork collection you play with light and colors. What inspires you?

especially in ceramics, is a real source of inspiration to cross,

After ten years of creating eyewear, we have accumulated various

divert and arrange acetate compositions in eyewear.

acetate plates, often scraps from previous productions, despite

In your new campaign you also stage your glasses on flowers.

our limited series. For the Patchwork collection, we reuse these

What’s behind the idea?

acetate remnants to remix them together, and create new material.

Audacity and intuition. For almost ten years I have been trying to shake up, with good humor, the codes of eyewear by mixing my vision with the know-how of manufacturers and new trends. After

In all color combinations we look for the prettiest variations.

Thanks for the interview, Jérémy. www.tarian.paris

the past two years, we needed fresh air and fresh colors. FlowS P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

161

fashion photography GÜN THER EGGER [Innsbruck] styling BEA EGGER hair & make-up JENNY models RUFUS MARTIN, DANIEL MATT & PAT MONTAGNOLLI packshots photography SEBASTIAN MADLENER

G LO RY FY »GX Haarlem«

162

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

BREAKING PARADIGM WITH GLORYFY UNBREAKABLE

The idea for creating really special eyewear designs already manifested in the mind of

G LO RY F Y »GX Haarlem«

company founder Christoph Egger in 2004. It took seven years until it would become reality.

Since then, GLORYFY has built a reputation for indestructible sunglasses and frames far beyond the brand’s home base in Austria.

That’s because manufactured in the Zillertal valley, the glasses are truly unbreakable. Over the years, the label has remained true to its roots and founding principles. But with the Lifestyle and Optics collections, the ‘Made in

»GX Stockholm«

Austria’ company is also branching out beyond the field of sports. That’s a good thing because everyone can use more unbreakable things in everyday life.

»GX Paris« Scan to try on GLORYFY FAVRSPECS.COM

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

163

G LO RY F Y »G20«

Hello Christoph, please tell us about the origins of GLORYFY? The idea behind GLORYFY unbreakable originated over coffee

Unbreakable is our most important guiding principle. It’s really at

with a good friend. He had priorly suffered a severe cut on his eye

the heart of all we do. Not just the technology and the practical

in a skiing accident that broke his glasses. But then it took another

use value. But also, our entire philosophy that we put into action

year until I finally committed to making this raw idea reality. The

daily. It’s our daily drive to become better, make even better

final impulse happened during an episode I got to witness on a

products, even thinner frames and temples, and provide an even

business trip to Hong Kong. A couple at the table next to mine

better service to our retailers. And most of all, get back up and

erupted in a loud verbal argument after the man had accidentally

carry on every time we fail.

sat on the woman’s glasses, which ended up broken. So I sponta-

How can you guarantee an ‘unbreakable’ product?

neously told my colleague right there: “When I get back home, I’m

Our material consists of a highly specialized cast resin. It took us

finally starting my project around unbreakable eyeglasses.” Said

ten years to fully understand the material. We have patented the

and done! That started a product development process which

technology, which makes us unique worldwide. It’s an extremely

would ultimately take seven years.

complex process from raw material to finished product. While

And even today you’re still manufacturing in the Zillertal valley in

it may look simple and playful when you see our frames bend

the Tyrol region?

flexibly, it requires a high level of craftsmanship and loads of

Yes, that’s part of our unbreakable DNA. We’re providing a counter vision to the disposable ‘fast fashion’ society by manufacturing eyewear with style and longevity via in-house production.

164

What else makes GLORYFY stand out on the market?

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

experience.

Does that also include the lenses?

Indeed. We never differentiated between the frames and lenses

»Gi15 St. Pauli«

»G21«

GLORY F Y »GX Marley«

»Gi8 Panto«

since our entire goal was to make eyeglasses unbreakable in

design. While at the outset in 2011, our eyeglasses were still bulky,

their entirety.

functional, and sports-focused, we have now arrived in the stylish

You’ve also developed a patented temple technology.

lifestyle and optical frame segment. Due to great advancements in

Exactly, it’s called INCLINOX technology. For opticians, INCLINOX

our technology, we have been able for several years now to manu-

offers the opportunity to adjust the temples in a cold state while

facture extremely thin frames while still hitting the ‘unbreakable’

also controlling the inclination. Adjusting eyewear has never been

paradigm. That way, we now offer every single wearer of eyeglas-

simpler. It’s made possible by the interplay between a metal insert

ses an incomparable overall package of innovation, functionality,

and our elastic cast resin.

and style!

Which features separate GLORYFY from other sports-oriented

But aren’t there already enough brands in the lifestyle and optical

eyeglasses?

segment?

By no means are we trying to sound arrogant, but there simply is

Considering the sheer amount of added value, from a technical

nothing better for any kinds of sports activities. We have unbreak-

perspective, offered by our glasses, we absolutely don’t want to

able lenses and frames, the absolutely highest lens quality and

be caged into the ‘sports eyewear’ category. That’s because the

flexibly adjustable temples that can be fitted to any sports-specific

advantages in everyday wear are rather obvious: Whether it’s sto-

situation, like wearing a helmet.

ring the glasses in the coat pocket or the classic mishap of sitting

And here’s an absolutely essential factor: GLORYFY unbreakable

on them in your car – people no longer have to worry about their

eyeglasses are not only technically innovative and functional. But

favorite glasses. Even curious children’s hands can’t harm our

they’ve also undergone a giant evolution in terms of style in their

sunglasses and frames, which makes them the perfect companions SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

165

GLORYF Y »Gi15 St. Pauli«

G LORYFY »G20«

in all walks of life. What’s more, our satisfied retail partners and

way to understated frames in matted finish. So something for

customers from the early years have always asked when we’d

every taste. The technological denominator is obvious, though:

finally bring our technology into the lifestyle sunglasses segment.

unbreakable. In terms of lens technologies, we are excited to intro-

When we also added the INCLINOX temple technology, it became

duce a great innovation, a self-tinting lens that can change from F1

an unstoppable success story. The same applies to our optical collection. There’s just nothing like it on the market.

What overall role does this new segment play in your business

Austrian Günther Egger set the scene to fulfill your request for a

now and what do you expect in the future?

strong and extravagant showcase. Does the resulting imagery fit

Our lifestyle sunglasses already account for about 40 percent

the visual language of your brand?

of our sales. Optical frames about 30 percent. This means that

We really enjoyed Günther’s approach for the photo shoot with his

sports eyewear no longer is at the top in terms of sales, but still

artsy interpretation of Wes Anderson’s masterpiece ‘The Royal

remains a fundamental part of the collection.

Tenenbaums’. Whether you love the characters or not, they sure

How many new models can we expect for the 2022 collection?

are different. They are sporty in their own specific way, but in a

Our kickoff collection for 2022 will offer 51 new styles across all

retro style that creates a fascinating counterpoint to our innovation-

areas of the eyewear universe. Then midway through the year, our

driven and progressive eyeglasses, I think. The characters aren’t

Midyear collection will introduce more new additions.

‘pretty’ in the classic, mainstream sense but have their edges and

Does the new collection follow a specific design direction?

166

to F3 while adjusting color from light pink to grey.

For this issue’s Collection Shoot our photographer and fellow

imperfections while doing their own thing. Just like what we’re

No, there is no overarching stylistic principle. We offer everything

about with our brand (laughs).

from eye-catching models to elegant and feminine frames all the

Thank you, Christoph.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

www.gloryfy.com

VYCOZ »Dolin« top ISABEL VOLLRATH

ELE 168

SPECTR

VYCOZ »Volin« coat BRACHMANN

CTRIC CITY photography U L R I C H

H A RT MA N N

[Berlin]

hair & make-up MELANIE HOPPE using PAT MC GRATH & ORIBE styling SKY BULTOVIC photo assistant JULIUS WOREL models NORA FABER & NOAH PHOEBUS at IZAIO

SPECTR

169

FAC E A FAC E »Alium Club 2« dress ISABEL VOLLRATH jacket CALVIN KLEIN

170

SPECTR

MA R KUS T »Mio P1011« coat & blazer BRACHMANN teddy STEINROHNER

SPECTR

171

C L ÉM EN C E & M A R GAU X »CM391 L’Ouverte D’Esprit« coat BRACHMANN

172

SPECTR

POR S CHE DESI G N »P’8937« shirt BRACHMANN cape HALA ALGHARBAWI

SPECTR

173

174

SPECTR

B A RTON PERREI RA »Steinam« coat BRACHMANN top ISABEL VOLLRATH

BA RTO N P E R R EI R A »Husney« coat BRACHMANN

SPECTR

175

GIGI STU DIOS »Coral« dress ISABEL VOLLRATH

176

SPECTR

MODO »4108« dress ISABEL VOLLRATH

SPECTR

177

LIN DBERG spirit »2472« jacket ISABEL VOLLRATH

178

SPECTR

MIDO | Booth P11 R14 | Hall 24 europe@modo.com | eco-eyewear.com

Shift the story

styling ALEXANDRA HECKEL at LIGANORD assisted by SABINE THOSS hair & make-up ANNE KRARUP models ASHLEY at LE MANAGEMENT & AYAKA at VIVA MODELS production & casting TAMARA SARISCHWILI at BLUE BUNNY PRODUCTION

[Baltic Sea]

EDI S ONGA photography JANA

BA RTO N P E RR EI R A »Avtak« leather coat JOSEPH

blazer JOSEPH

»Avtak« (007 Edition) Remember the villain from the iconic James Bond movie ‘A View To A Kill’?

Max Zorin was an evil mastermind, but also a man with magnificent taste.

This aviator silhouette is crafted from bi-colored titanium, featuring a sophisticated lens with the Zorin breath logo.

For the full package, the temple tips are adorned by 007 logo plaques in 1962 style, and all frames ship in a BARTON PERREIRA x 007 Legacy Collection case

plus cloth.

180

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

LEADING LADIES & SECRET AGENTS BARTON PERREIRA INTRODUCES NEW COLORS AND 007 CAPSULE COLLECTION

Eyewear design icons Patty Perreira and Bill Barton joined forces in 2007 to realize their own, uncompromising vision for a design-driven eyewear brand.

Ever since, the audience has been listening closely whenever BARTON PERREIRA announces a new product release.

For autumn/winter 2021, the California-based brand is adding nine new sunglass and optical frames to the catalog. What’s more, two new colorways inspired by romance and nostalgia expand the palette: Sunrise Bay is a turquoise blue reminiscent of the Caribbean Sea, while Sheer Magnolia is a delicate blush pink.

Aside from these novelties, expect some of the hallmark accents that rank BARTON PERREIRA among the finest eyewear brands in the world. Aside from proven colorways from previous collections, expect outstanding craftsmanship courtesy of the finest eyewear manufacturers and Japan’s leading artisans.

It’s a blend of centuries-old techniques and modern Scan to try on BARTON PERREIRA

technology for premium products without compromise.

FAVRSPECS.COM

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

181

B ARTO N P E R R EI R A »Magdalena« shirt MSGM leggings LITICHEVSKAYA shoes UGG

»Magdalena« Looking for luxury sunglasses at the highest level of excellence?

Meet the »Magdalena« a butterfly silhouette intricately crafted with signature ultra-thin acetate.

For that luxe touch, this stunner features 24K gold plated titanium and green and blue painted titanium for a monochromatic look.

182

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

»Cabaret« The season’s new Sheer Magnolia colorway sparkles in the showstopping »Cabaret« silhouette, a stylish update on the oversized rounded cat-eye. Designed in BARTON PERREIRA’s polished acetate

with subtle beveling, it’s an elegant frame for silver screen legends and ladies with discerning taste.

»Magdalena«

»Cabaret«

-

-

outfit MSGM

dress & OTHER STORIES

B A RTON PER R EIR A »Cabaret« shirt VETEMENTS, pants JOSEPH, shoes UGG SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

183

B A RTO N P ER R EI RA »Donyale« net dress MSGM

blouse DRIES VAN NOTEN

»Donyale« Retro inspirations meet high-end craftsmanship in the oversized »Donyale« model. In true 1970s style, the lightweight acetate dazzles with translucent hues. Fitted with hand-dipped jewel-tone tinted lenses that radiate glam for the ultimate balance between classic and ultramodern stylistics.

“My goal with each pair of BARTON PERREIRA frames is to combine beauty, craft and art, and find the magic in the details for the perfect fit. I strive to introduce designs that transcend time and offer silhouettes that complement people of all ages and backgrounds,” says Patty Perreira.

The new silhouettes also complement secret agents in the service of Her Majesty: BARTON PERREIRA is also releasing two limited-edition sunglass styles in the first installment of the exclusive »007 LEGACY« capsule collection to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the James Bond series. In this issue’s Collection Shoot, we celebrate the heroes (and some villains) of the latest inspirations from a brand that never ceases to amaze. www.bartonperreira.com

184

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

INCLINOX patentierte Technologie: selbstanpassbare Bügel

GX Stockholm gloryfy unbreakable eyewear – unzerbrechliche Brillen „Made in Austria“ aus dem innovativen und patentierten Spezialkunststoff NBFX. Entwickelt, designt & produziert inmitten der Alpen, im Tiroler Zillertal.

»M3114«

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

MATS U DA »M1027«

»M2054«

The Matsuda Approach OLD WORLD TECHNIQUE, NEW WORLD EXPRESSION Japanese eyewear mainstays MATSUDA count among

The common theme throughout the years remains

the world’s most original designer labels in our industry.

the combination between refined designs and utmost

The recipe for success is simple: Aside from delive-

craftsmanship. MATSUDA only relies on the finest materi-

ring only premium products, the label continues

als, including Japanese acetate, titanium, stainless steel,

to command the aura of a trendsetter and fashion

Sterling silver and 18-karat massive gold. All crafted into

pioneer. Even 50 years ago, designer and namesake

masterful frames that blend the line between eyewear

Mitsuhiro Matsuda was cultivating a new kind of eye-

and jewelry. Quality instead of quantity makes MATSUDA

wear design, inspired by Gothic architecture, Victorian

eyeglasses true collector’s pieces. True to the motto: “Old

art, American jazz, and traditional Japanese tailoring.

World Technique, New World Expression”. www.matsuda.com

186

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

Scan to try on MATSUDA

»M3114«

FAVRSPECS.COM

The »M3114« is one of the most versatile panto frames of all time.

Thin Japanese acetate blends with a lightweight titanium chassis for stunning effects. Finer details include elegant temples ornamented by lacquered details. Bravo!

»M1027« The »M1027« is a bold take on a classic square silhouette, handcrafted from Japanese acetate and embellished with precious metal hinges. The frame dazzles with strong form language and accentuates the individual spirit of the wearer.

»M2054« The »M2054« is a sleek and lightweight frame in an artful blend of compressed acetate and titanium.

Inspired by key elements of Gothic architecture, the frame with the ornate stained glass details and pointed arch is a standout in MATSUDA’s storied collection.

S P E C T R / / L A B E L U P DAT E

187

SI LHO UE T T E »Fisher Island 8182« outfit STEINROHNER

188

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

[Berlin]

H ARTM ANN

hair SACHA SCHÜTTE make-up PACQUO WINTER styling SKY BULTOVIC assisted by CARLA photo assistant JULIUS WOREL models REX ADAMS at MUUMAA MODELS & STELLA K at MIRRRS MODELS

photography U L RI CH

A

A

FORW RD TO THE P ST

SILHOUETTE LAUNCHES FASHION IMPERATIVES Austrian brand SILHOUETTE commands a tradition for quality eyewear manufacturing spanning several decades. The company based in the town of Linz often crafts collections that create bridges to past eras. This year, SILHOUETTE is once again embarking on a journey through time by bringing back retro designs from the 1970s in a fresh package.

In our Collection Shoot, we showcase select models from two new lines: SUN Collection

SI L H OUETTE »Fisher Island 8182«

2022 and Futura Dot.

outfit STEINROHNER

Scan to try on SILHOUETTE FAVRSPECS.COM

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

189

190

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

The rimless shades from the SUN Collection 2022 dazzle with their exclusive form language. It’s a refined blend of oversized lenses fitted

S IL HO U ETTE »Futura Dot 9912« outfit STEINROHNER

rimless with ultra-thin titanium temples. The resulting frames are high on style and comfort of wear, while the quality is impeccable. The models are named after two islands located in Biscayne Bay outside Miami: Fisher Island and Star Island range among the most stylish destinations near the Magic City, where luxury meets pure natural beauty.

These two SILHOUETTE designs from the SUN Collection 2022 reflect the Austrian designer brand’s latest entry in a long line of shapes that render gorgeous women’s sunglasses in rimless designs.

It’s no surprise that SILHOUETTE ranges as a market leader in the rimless premium eyeglasses segment. This offering is underlined by the service option of having both sunglasses fitted with prescription strength lenses at the label’s in-house optical lab.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

191

S I L H O U ETTE »Star Island 8183« top VINTAGE jacket ADIDAS

This season, the collection is joined by the Futura Dot with fashionable throwbacks to the early 1970s. The year 1973 is when the original was first released as a true showpiece. The new interpretation is just as stylish and flashy, but not stuck in the past. The signature dot on the frame is machined into the material and accentuated by a handmade color inlay. Together with the oversized lenses, embedded precisely into the shield, the frame creates an equally fascinating and unique form language.

For our shoot, photographer Ulrich Hartmann and team present the must-have fashion item in two stunning colorways: Atlantic Blue and Black and White. What’s more, the special edition in limited quantities is also available in Olive Grove and Nostalgic Brown with only 1964 pieces of the »Futura Dot« produced. The meaning behind 1964? It’s the founding year of SILHOUETTE. And much like other releases from the trendsetting brand, »Futura Dot« is about to rock the eyewear universe! www.silhouette.com

192

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

www.clemence-margaux.com

Modèle : CMS391 LA OUVERTE D’ESPRIT

CCO - VILLA NINO - 247 avenue Bouloumié - BP20031 - 88801 VITTEL CEDEX - Tél. 03 29 08 85 85 - www.lunettes-cco.fr

194

FAC E A FAC E »Bocca Chess 2«

FACE A FACE »Night 2«

-

-

coat JUNLI

coat & trousers JOSEPH

jewelry JOANNE GUIRAUD

earrings SIF JAKOBS

SPECTR

LONDON DOPE FITS photography WILLIA M

F ER CHICHI

[London]

styling KAYLEIGH SWAN make-up BROOKE SIMONS using CHARLOTTE TILBURY, VICTORIA BECKHAM, FENTY, DR SEBAGH & HOURGLASS COSMETICS hair FABIO VIVAN at EMMA DAVIES AGENCY models KRISTINA RUY at KULT, LONDON & ARIANE NORBEL at PREMIER LONDON

SPECTR

195

RAEN »Mystiq« top THE ATTICO earrings SIF JAKOBS

196

SPECTR

KLEN Z E & B AU M »Marno« shirt LETOIT jewelry JOANNE GUIRAUD

SPECTR

197

ECO »Jasmine« shirt ANN DEMEULEMEESTER hoop earrings SIF JAKOBS stone ring DAINTY LONDON spiral ring & earring JOANNE GUIRAUD

198

SPECTR

ECO »Mulberry« blazer THE ROW bra DOLCE & GABBANA necklace, ring & earrings SIF JAKOBS gold rings JOANNE GUIRAUD

SPECTR

199

N ATH AL I E BL ANC »Grace« blazer LETOIT jewelry SIF JAKOBS

N ATHA LIE B LA N C »Apolline« shirt JPL ATELIER jewelry JOANNE GUIRAUD

200

SPECTR

N IRVAN JAVA N »London 03:02 (GMT)« hat MIU MIU top LAUREN MANOOGIAN

SPECTR

201

L IT HE »16022« top LETOIT jewelry JOANNE GUIRAUD

202

SPECTR

L I TH E »16025« top LETOIT jewelry JOANNE GUIRAUD

SPECTR

203

SCOTCH & SODA »Fresno« top GAYEON LEE trousers JUNLI rings JOANNE GUIRAUD

204

SPECTR

R IGARD S x Z I GGY C H EN »RG1911CU« top JPL ATELIER earrings JOANNE GUIRAUD

SPECTR

205

CLÉMEN CE & MARGAUX »CM384 La Color Full« blazer STELLA McCARTNEY via YOOX.COM earrings JUSTWIN JEWELS

C LÉM E NC E & MA R GAU X »CM393 La Leader« blouse CHLOÉ earrings JUSTWIN JEWELS

206

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

photography SACHA

TAS S ILO HÖCHSTETTER

[Munich]

hair & make-up TANJA SCHUSTER styling SABINE DIEKOW model STEPHANIE GROLL

SISTERHOOD CONQUERS ALL CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX – A TRUE FRENCH CONNECTION When it comes to family stories, Clémence & Margaux is as heartwarming as it gets. Two sisters living in France, one with a visual impairment, the other with a passion for fashion. In order to help make her young sister’s life easier, Margaux embarks on an investigative journey through the eyewear industry to find a visual aid for her dear Clémence. Inspired by her older sister’s passion for style, Clémence soon starts adding her own dose of personality to the design process. Through the alchemy of talent, teamwork, and sisterly love several years later a new eyewear brand is born: CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX. Strengthened by their unique bond from a young age onward, the two French company founders have channeled their mutual interests into a quite sizeable eyewear collection. Founded in 2012, the brand cultivates a style that can best be described as retro-inspired and enhanced by a healthy dose

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

207

of glamor, playful fantasy, and love for detail. With their eyewear creations, CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX speak to self-confident women that like to present

themselves in a flattering and feminine manner. A lot like the two founders!

With an eye for colorful 1970s style, the brand’s eyewear frames appear in rounded or angled geometries in an oversized form factor. Crafted from delicate metal and titanium with front sections in subtle colorways. Sometimes with a tortoise surface, or even adorned by accents in rosé or turquoise all the way to the temple tips. In short: Eyewear by CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX always dazzles with a tasteful combination of materials, themes,

and colorways. Say adieu to mere functional visual aids and bonjour to lifeaffirming fashion statements! www.clemence-margaux.fr

208

C LÉM E NC E & MA R GAU X »CM380 La Pink Lady«

»CM389 La Jalouse«

-

-

dress THE KOOPLES

top ZARA

beret STAND STUDIO

belt (worn as necklace) ROSANTICA

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

C L ÉM EN C E & MA R GAU X »CM396 La Creatrice« trenchcoat BLANCA VITA

»CM390 La Seventies« blazer ALESSANDRA RICH top ANINE BING hat LOEWE bracelet GAS BIJOUX & BAUBLEBAR earrings TIMELESS PEARLY SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

209

OH,BOY...

CAZAL – NEW DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS

CA Z A L »MOD 6020/3« Acetate frame featuring a goldplated and innovative double bridge in a bold square shape. coat MSGM pullover UNIQLO shirt CALVIN KLEIN

210

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

photography, art direction, casting & styling N A R ÈN TE,

LU CIO A R U + F R A N CO E RRE

[Sardinia]

hair & make-up DANIELA DESSÌ models EMANUELE ETTORE POMES & CLAUDIO DI PALMA at LA REPRESENTS

Nowadays, you would probably refer to them as ‘influen-

At regular intervals, the brand revisits the CAZAL

cers’. But in New York City in the 1980s, they were just two

Legends from its wild early days and brings them back in

legends from the movie and hip-hop scene that happened

updated renditions. Whether these classics return as big

to be photographed wearing high-profile sunglasses.

and bold CAZAL styles or in ultra-sleek and slimmed-down

Which in turn made these sunglasses international cult

versions, they all share the same pedigree: The golden

classics. The influencers in question are Spike Lee and

CAZAL logo on the temple is a mark of excellence and

Run DMC, whose street cred single-handedly launched

stylish tradition. There is no easier way to place a new re-

eyewear by designer Cari Zalloni aka CAZAL into the pop

lease into the enduring legacy of CAZAL eyewear designs.

culture stratosphere. It’s not a surprise, either, as CAZAL

And speaking of ‘enduring’, the fans of the brand are also

shades have always had a highly recognizable quality and

known for their lifelong affiliation and loyalty.

retain their timeless allure even 40 years later.

The secret of CAZAL’s extraordinarily long lifespan in

After all, that’s also because these statement-making eyeglasses have never been designed with average Joes

the eyewear universe? It’s not just the bold and daring

in mind. CAZAL represents an unyielding spirit of individu-

designs. It’s also the ultra-high penchant for quality and

ality and is loved by personalities who express themselves

first-class materials that set the label apart. Over the years,

through their fashion and eyewear choices. For every extra-

CAZAL has crafted premium eyeglasses from ingredients

vagant and expressive CAZAL eyewear silhouette there

such as premium titanium, delicate acetate, and pure gold.

is the perfect wearer out there who will breathe life into

The collections always raise the bar with well-appointed

the frame as it blends into their personality. And that’s the

details such as real crystal stones as ornaments or care-

definition of a true classic.

fully placed gold ligatures. Plus, highly balanced color compositions play their part in making each CAZAL frame a real masterpiece.

www.cazal-eyewear.com

Scan to try on CAZAL FAVRSPECS.COM

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

211

CAZAL »MOD 790/3«

»MOD 9100« A bold aviator style for men

Gorgeous combination of metal and acetate. The dominant top bar lends the »790/3« a strong form language, supplemented by Zeiss lenses. jacket RESERVED, shirt CALVIN KLEIN

212

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

with recognizable CAZAL details. The subtle colorways merge beautifully with the 18-20 karat galvanized gold finish. jacket TOPMAN

CA Z A L »MOD 8042« The model »8042« intrigues with an elaborate metal bridge and premium acetate body.

Quality lenses from German experts at Zeiss. coat ZEGNA jacket TOPMAN SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

213

CA Z A L »MOD 8041« A worthy entry in the Capsule Collection: The comfortable lens shapes with typical CAZAL flash ornaments on the temples come in a frame crafted from 10mm acetate. coat CORNELIANI, shirt CALVIN KLEIN, pullover ZEGNA

CA Z A L »MOD 675« This Legend model owes its luxury credentials to high-grade acetate and Zeiss lenses in a reinterpretation of the famous »163«. blazer TAGLIATORE, pullover GUCCI, shirt CALVIN KLEIN

214

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

photography SACHA

TASS ILO HÖCHSTETTER

[Munich]

hair & make-up TANJA SCHUSTER styling SABINE DIEKOW model YASMINA BAUER

Scan to try on MODO FAVRSPECS.COM

MODO Bold Collection »4551« skirt MAISON COMMON top ERES earring SASKIA DIEZ

IN BALANC MODO’S NEW COLLECTION APPROACH

216

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

MODO Bold Collection »4552« top NANUSHKA necklace SASKIA DIEZ

E MODO is streamlining the structure of its product portfolio. Moving forward, the

entire offering will be neatly grouped into three collections: Air, Bold, and Sun. On that note, the Bold Collection is a standout as it offers expressive and strong designs with a unique MODO design DNA. Here’s CEO Giovanni Lo Faro about the new approach.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

217

MODO Bold Collection »4553« top PINKO pants ZARA earrings SASKIA DIEZ

»7053« pullover COS

218

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Sunglasses all run under the Sun collection mantle. Are there any distinctions left in this collection?

Sun is all driven by the same approach, despite the many variations these models have in terms of design, materials and production processes. Our entire Sun collection offers a perfect balance of style and performance, thanks to polarized HCD (High Chromatic Definition) lenses and the innovative materials we use.

The Air collection looks most like signature MODO style. What is special about this

collection?

Air is about design, technical details, lightness, and flexibility. We come from a decade where minimalism has been predominant and often associated with neat, sometimes even basic statements.

We believe that Air is presenting our own idea of minimalism, which is more expressive, colorful and always wearable. In one word, I would call it contemporary.

The Bold collection is still the biggest surprise for us at MODO, which is why we

MODO Bold Collection »4551« coat COS stockings KUNERT

staged selected models in a fashion shoot.

What made you want to launch this collection?

Hi Giovanni, last year you further upgraded

The frames look like a thick, structured

your collections. What is different now?

acetate. But they turn out to be way

We introduced more constructed styles,

lighter, more comfortable, and functional.

more faceted and with thicker profiles.

Bold is our way to reinterpret the most

This design direction is complementary to

iconic and timeless eyewear pieces.

our well-known thin designs. Everything

What materials and techniques do you use

we do can be reduced to three simple

in this collection?

themes or, if you like, product families:

We use beta-titanium for our chassis,

Air, Bold, and Sun.

while the fronts are made with TR90,

What was your motivation for this?

acetate and our R 1000 plastic to achieve

We wanted to rethink how we tell our

bolder profiles. There is a lot of variety,

story to both our opticians and consumers.

and we play with combinations and

The MODO collection is very broad and

details such as covered bridges, faceted

spans everything from very minimalistic

fronts and screwless hinges.

concepts to louder ones. Shifting our fo-

In terms of continuity, what connects Bold

cus from the specific technical features to

to the previous design language of MODO?

the overall mood of our frames is helping

Lightness is our common trait. We may be

us to define MODO’s distinctive positio-

exploring bolder or more reduced style

ning more clearly.

directions, but our design always offers SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

219

MODO Bold Collection »7052« coat MAISON COMMON earcuff SASKIA DIEZ

light and functional frames to the wearer.

And what is new and different from previous MODO eyeglasses?

We have more colors, more texture and expression. That means we’re adding variety and more options within our collection to let wearers express their own style.

Do you also address a new target group with the Bold models?

We think that our core target is the same and is simply evolving together with our brand. With that said, Bold will likely be the must-have for any MODO aficionados looking to make a louder statement.

You are also starting the year 2022 with a completely new campaign. What is special about it?

Yes! We’re very excited about it. The new campaign has been shot in Milan, the perfect backdrop to capture the many angles of MODO’s brand. One city, three moods balancing timeless design and new color explorations. All across three distinctive, yet complimentary collections: Air, Bold, and Sun. Are you looking to give the brand a new image with the new collection structure and the new campaign?

Rather than new, we aim to have a broader and more articulated identity. While maintaining our DNA and expertise from MODO’s successful history, we are now

ready to project the brand into the future.

A more colorful, straight, and engaging visual language is part of this!

Thanks for the insights, Giovanni. www.modo.com 220

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Men’s frame: SS200893754, Women’s frame: SS301896954 © 2021 SCOTCH & SODA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

MODO »4253« leather coat WOOD WOOD shirt PRADA boots VAGABOND

M 222

SPECTR

MODO »4108« leather jacket UTERQÜE pants AIAYU boots JIMMY CHOO belt ESSENTIEL ANTWERP earrings BIMBA Y LOLA gloves & OTHER STORIES

MANSION TALES IN TWILIGHT photography JA N A

EDISON GA

[Herrenhaus Viecheln, Berlin]

hair & make-up ANNE KRARUP styling ALEXANDRA HECKEL at LIGANORD assisted by SABINE THOSS models FYNN & LAETITIA at M4 MODELS, GRETA at IZAIO MODELS production & casting TAMARA SARISCHWILI at BLUE BUNNY PRODUCTION

SPECTR

223

McLA R EN »MLMAGS0204« pants WOOD WOOD sweater vest NO21 jacket KARL KANI glass necklace BIMBA Y LOLA silver necklace VINTAGE shoes GUCCI

224

SPECTR

GÖTTI »Costa« coat THERAPIE boots VAGABOND earrings DNSK KOPENHAGEN

SPECTR

225

GLO RY FY »GX Kapstadt« pants WOOD WOOD shirt KARL KANI necklace VINTAGE

226

SPECTR

GLORYF Y »GX Stockholm« blouse UTERQÜE skirt JOSEPH necklace & socks VINTAGE earrings SÉZANE

SPECTR

227

N IRVA N JAVAN »London 06:02 (GMT)« jacket VERSACE at NIGHTBOUTIQUE undershirt & necklace VINTAGE

228

SPECTR

NIRVAN JAVA N »London 05:02 (GMT)« shirt & pants BONDY belt CHANEL shoes CAMPERLAB necklace VINTAGE

SPECTR

229

I C! BE RL IN »MB 07« pants & OTHER STORIES blouse UTERQÜE boots HUGO BOSS

IC! B ER LIN »AMG 04« shirt GVN pants JOSEPH bag ESSENTIEL ANTWERP necklace VINTAGE shoes ASICS

230

SPECTR

M E T R O P O L ITA N »8271« blouse MSGM pants UTERQÜE earrings & OTHER STORIES

SPECTR

231

LU N OR »A11 458« shirt OPÉRASPORT skirt UTERQÜE leggings JEAN PAUL GAULTIER blazer PALLAS shoes CAMPERLAB necklace VINTAGE

232

SPECTR

HOLLOW & SUPERLIGHT SUMO COLLECTION BY

Reconstructable, bespoke, 3D-printed eyewear made in Munich klenzebaum.com

EYEWEAR