SPECTR Issue 26

Nr. 26 – II / 2019 EUR 15,–

Identity

ENGLISH GERMAN

BLACKFIN B l a ck E d ition »Oakl an d« & »Junip e r B a y« // »Ne w O rle ans« & »Oakl an d«

BLACKFIN B l a ck E d ition »Darlin g ton« & »Junip e r B a y«

danish design by ¡ made by

FRAME / Retro R3308 A COLOR / Brown violet structured LENS / ColorMatic ®

lookocchiali.it

EDITORIAL

YOU, MYSELF & I “Me, myself, and I, that’s all I got in the end... Hey, I know that I will never disappoint myself.”

Beyoncé

Me, Myself and I – this trinity has been well-known since the days of iconic rappers De La Soul and went viral when Beyoncé served her take in 2003. It’s all about the several layers of our personality. Because in the end, there’s not just a single I – there’s always another side, another way of thinking and another way of feeling. All these facets are the pieces that compose our very own individual identity. It’s more than the sum of all parts – and totally unique – although some aspects sometimes find their match in other people. When we happen to agree on a certain point with another individual, there’s that emotional spark, that instant connection. It’s a type of rapport that not only exists between siblings. Even complete strangers can turn out to be on the same wavelength and become our soulmates. These are people we naturally gravitate towards because when we’re around them, everything flows with ease, completely naturally.

For our cover shoot with BLACKFIN, we have chosen four couples that share such a special connection, as is evident by just looking at their appearance. They are each other’s true reflection. This theme of mirrored identities also pops up across other series in this issue, like ‘Clone Wars’ shot by Ulrich Hartmann or ‘Diversity Again’ by Florian Renner. We even went as far as incorporating the concept of mirror images in this issue’s graphic design: SPECTR #26 is a mirror turned upon itself, there is no front or back, just two different viewpoints. It’s also double the fun – you can read the issue from two directions to double your pleasure.

SD

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CONTENT

IC! BERLIN REFLEC TION 114

Bogey Down

Digital First III

ANDY WOLF IN SAO PAULO 26

BY RACHEL JIAM 102

Synaesthesia By Reiz

Female Supremacy

EATING CAKES – SEEING COLOR S 34

»JEFFER IES« FROM KALEOS 100

Urban Farming

A Voyeur’s Perspective

BY SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTET TER 36

MASUNAGA FROM JAPAN 93

Digital First I

The Art Of Craftsmanship

NE W ETNIA BARCELONA ST YLES 48

BY ANGELIKA BUET TNER 80

Lonely Encounter

South Of Houston

BY TOBIAS WIRTH & HANIBALL SALIBA 50

FACE À FACE IN PAR IS 58

Bohemian Mastery

U RO N

CHARMAN T X CAROLINE ABRAM 72

A

When Dreams Come True

Standardized Blue Blocker Eyewear

KOBERG – MADE IN GERMANY 70

D

New Designline

THE BOOK CLUB 64

E

T

N UR M

Diversity Again

SILHOUET TE SPECIAL EDI TION SUN 65

BY FLOR IAN RENNER 66

20 Years Titan Minimal Art

Tinted Lenses

BARTON PERREIRA X SPINELLI KILCOLLIN 56

Digital First II

BY HARLING DAR SELL 44

Time Warp

BLACKFIN COLLEC TION SHOOT 108

MOREL – FASHION FORWARD IN CAPE TOWN 21

Identity – Same Same

Glued Visor

E YE VAN X DENNIS MORR IS 102

NE W TECH BY POR SCHE DESIGN 28

Collab Of The Issue

Momentum Of Red

BY ULR ICH HARTMANN 90

BY STEFAN KAPFER 30

Clone Wars

Berlin Requiem

LINDBERG SUN COLLEC TION 88

Luxury Meets Rounded Elegance

BY OLI VER SPIES 76

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d i t ion »C ora l C o v e « & » Sil v e r ton«

“Identity – Same Same” by Stefan Dongus ( Pa ge 1 0 8 )

Impressum Editor In Chief

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

Layout

CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com

ditorial Sta

JANA LUDWIG [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com

Proofreading

INSA MUTH [Dortmund] PETER ASHFORD [London] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

Translation

Photographers

ANGELIKA BUETTNER [New York] EDA CALISTI [Munich] STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] HARLING & DARSELL [Berlin] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [São Paulo & Munich] RACHEL JIAM [Berlin] STEFAN KAPFER [Cape Town & Dusseldorf] PETRA OBERMÜLLER [Paris] FLORIAN RENNER [London] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf] OLIVER SPIES [Munich] TOBIAS WIRTH [Berlin]

Publisher

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine OFFICE ADDRESS Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln, Germany STUDIO ADDRESS Lichtstraße 28 50825 Köln, Germany www.modaymedia.cc

DIRK VOGEL [Chicago]

Online Editor

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] online@spectr-magazine.com

CEOs

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK

Print

F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de SPECTR is published three times per year.

This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers.

All rights reserved.

cov e r photos STEFAN DONGUS a ss i s t a nt JANA LUDWIG & KILIAN AMREHN h a i r & m a ke - up KERSTIN HUESGES a t 21AGENCY s t yli n g NINA FRÖHLICH a t 21AGENCY mod els ANASTASIYA, VERONIKA & SEBASTIAN a t MOST WANTED, HANNA & LIN a t IZAIO, SONJA a t SPIN, ADELINA a t COCAINE, PHILIP a t M4 loca tion COLOGNE, STUDIO LICHTSTRASSE gl a ss e s BLACKFIN

photos SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER s t ylin g JOAO VICTOR BORGES h air & m ake -up ANDRÉ MATTOS mod el s YNGRID FERREIRA a t ROCK MMGT & LIVIA ARAUJO a t PRIME MODEL MANAGEMENT lo ca tion SÃO PAULO

COLLECTION SHOOT

ANDY WOLF

»G ora n«

“Broad temples are emerging as an important 2019 trend, showcased here in the all-round Goran that offers a perfect fit for both men and women.” Andy

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COLLECTION SHOOT

Bogey Down ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR 2019 ST YLES ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR cultivates that special something – a certain dose of swagger and extrava-

gance – that sets the Austrian fashion eyewear label apart from the competition. Their frame designs are bold, real eye catchers, but still wearable and functional at the same time. These traits are backed up by a commitment to high quality standards, achieved by sourcing all acetate models from a workshop in the label’s native Hartberg in the Steiermark region. In the same vein, all metal frames are made in a factory in Jura, France, acquired in 2016. Completing the package, all sunglasses are fitted with highgrade Zeiss lenses.

For this photo shoot, we decided to take things to a new level by letting our photographer Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter bring the Austrian-French frames on his trip to São Paulo, Brazil. As his crisp photos prove, the 2019 ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR collection is right at home in front of a Brazilian backdrop. For the full story behind the new models, we asked the two namesakes behind ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR – Andreas Pirkheim and Wolfgang Scheucher – to share their insights with SPECTR.

www.andy-wolf.com

» E zra « “The feminine »Ezra« cat eye style showcases a curved top bar and is crafted, like all of our acetate frames, in time-honored craftsman tradition.”

Wolf

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COLLECTION SHOOT

ANDY WOLF » P ip e r«

“The elegant »Piper« model stylishly blends a metal double bridge with a curved cat eye frame. The ring in contrasted colorways blends harmoniously with the matching tint of the Zeiss lenses.” Wolf

»47 4 6 « “The model is a throwbac to the 1970s as one of the coolest new oversized styles with an unmista ably angled nose bridge.” Andy

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COLLECTION SHOOT

ANDY WOLF

»4710«

“Rounded metal frames like the »4710« are a key style in our collection. The golden frame is completed by a blac ring for a perfect finish.

Colors are added in a highly involved manual process, while the ring features detailed chasing.” Wolf

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COLLECTION SHOOT

ANDY WOLF »Volt a«

“The combo-sunglasses olta make a strong appearance with a pronounced acetate bridge that combines with the metal rim to create a modern interpretation of the cat eye style in an elegant sports frame.” Wolf

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COLLECTION SHOOT

» 4 579« “The new »4579« model makes a strong, expressive statement with its bold lines in thic acetate, rendered in transparent orange acetate material.” Andy

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COLLECTION SHOOT

ANDY WOLF » Flore nce «

“The unmista able design of the slim cat eye »Florence« model with its straight top bar is already iconic. This season introduces new transparent colorways such as orange, shiny gold or light green with glitter speckles.” Andy

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: F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E

photo EDA CALISTI

Synaesthesia

By Reiz

REIZ »Wel le «

»Tan ge nt e«

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: F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E

EATING CAKES – SEEING COLORS Slight sweetness and the reflection of the dew.

What may read like the title of a French cinema classic is actually the latest color concept for quality eyewear label REIZ. The Southern German brand is headed into Spring 2019 with seven select frames from the Optitektur collection in an assortment of tasty cake colors.

The color code Plain Vanilla features releases of models such as »Achse«, »Kreis«, »Oval« and »Punkt«. Also look forward to the models »Kugel«, »Tangente« and »Welle« in sweet Strawberry Cream. For the designers at REIZ, Plain Vanilla and Strawberry Cream are more than just new colorways, but synesthetic experiences that blend impressions from several senses. Like biting into a piece of cake and seeing a vivid flash of color in front of your eyes. Taste meets colors. Even without the cake, we love the new pastel color tones on the REIZ menu and are already hungry for more. www.reiz.net

REIZ » P unk t«

»K re is«

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Urban Farming

BY S ac h a Ta s s il o H รถc h s te tte r [MUNICH]

a ss i s t ant NOEMI VEROLLA s t yli n g ALEXANDRA DIETL h ai r & m ake - up SABRINA REUSCHL wi th CHANEL & LA BIOSTHETIQUE PARIS mod els ELENA WALCH a t SP MODELS & UNA a t MOST WANTED MODELS

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KBL

»C umul u s« -

dre ss TIGER OF SWEDEN pin a fore GOTTSEIDANK socks FALKE sl ipp e r s KARL LAGERFELD h a t SPATZ

KBL

»XB e rg« -

dre ss MBYM pi n a fore GOTTSEIDANK s hoe s GRACELAND ban d an a J’AI MAL À LA TÊTE

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H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R » 4 0 -V« -

sh ir t MARCEL OSTERTAG shor t s LIV BERGEN soc k s HAPPY SOCKS shoe s MANGO

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MASUNAGA »Dahli a« -

hood ie COLMAR, ba g & he a dban d KARL LAGERFELD 39

LOOK

Ma t e r i k a »70560« -

jacke t GEOX, dre ss GOTTSEIDANK 40

LOOK

Ma t e r i k a »7 0 5 6 5 « -

dre ss & blou s e BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

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RODENSTOCK »R 33 0 9 « -

outfi t BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

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RODENSTOCK »R 3291« -

jacke t ESCADA

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LINDBERG

St r ip 9500 T it an iu m »9595« -

s hi r t SAMSØE & SAMSØE 44

LINDBERG

St r ip3p T it an iu m »2367« -

h a t SPATZ, blou s e GOTTSEIDANK, ba g REEBOK, p ants BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 45

ETNIA BARCELONA » S a nt a Mon ica Su n « -

coa t SAMSØE & SAMSØE d re ss & sk ir t BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN sn e a ke r s KARL LAGERFELD

ETNIA BARCELONA »A d d a « -

coa t & suit ESCADA s an d al s TOMS

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ETNIA BARCELONA » C a rl sb a d Sun«

photos STEFAN DONGUS t ale nts HANNA DEUSS & KILIAN KRÜLL 48

Digital First #February ETNIA BARCELONA NEWSLETTER SHOOT Production: hoot in a ologne suburb Distribution: ingle-topic newsletter February 019

ETNIA BARCELONA went big this pring with almost 100 new frame models. As a ma or player on the independent eye-

wear scene, the atalonia-based label attracts a young crowd interested in art and fashion. The segmentation into four sub-collections Street, Originals, Avant-Garde and Classic With A Twist serves to offer even more choices for individual consumers. Each collection was created to ma e the customer the star.

e have chosen a fine selection of seven styles

from our two favorite collections, Avant-Garde and Street.

The production too place in a suburb of ologne. Talents Hanna and ilian felt very comfortable with the up-to-date styles, so the biggest challenge was to ma e sure that the coveted frames weren’t stolen during the shoot. Images were shown to opticians directly after the shoot in February in a single-topic newsletter.

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ANDY WOLF »G e org i a « -

jacke t TOPMEN sh ir t CINQUE

Lonely Encounter

a S tory by H a n ib a l l S a l ib a & Tob ia s W i r t h [BERLIN]

p roduc tion FABRIKA PRODUCTIONS s t yli n g & re ali s a tion HANIBALL SALIBA photogra phy TOBIAS WIRTH re p re s e nt ed b y TOBIAS BOSCH h ai r & m ake - up DIRK NEUHÖFFER re p re s e nt ed b y NINA KLEIN mod els LIN & LIV a t IZAIO MODELS s p e c i al th anks to HOTEL CENTRAL TEGEL

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ANDY WOLF »K ira « -

tre nch coa t RENÉ LEZARD sh ir t STEFFEN SCHRAUT

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BARTON PERREIRA » L a nce r« -

shi r t JACK AND JONES b ox e r s hor t s BUGATTI r i n g s DIESEL b ra cele t ARMANI X CHANGE

BARTON PERREIRA » L a rk«

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BARTON PERREIRA »C a trou x« -

s hi r t TIGER OF SWEDEN

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MOREL

»30092L« -

s hi r t TIGER OF SWEDEN

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MOREL

»3 0 0 9 3 L « -

le a th e r jacke t BUGATTI sh ir t HAUPT r in g s DIESEL

MOREL

» 20048K« -

jacke t VILA

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ECO

»A nt i b e s « -

sh ir t VAN LAACK p a nt s CINQUE b el t BUGATTI

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ECO

»Ma ca u « -

bl a z e r & s ki r t VERO MODA boots DR. MARTENS socks FALKE

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LE SPECS »Dr if t e r« -

jacke t STRELLSON s hi r t RENÉ LEZARD

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LE SPECS »Fan a t ic « -

s hi r t RENE´LEZARD

LE SPECS »Ne ro« -

le a the r jacke t MARC O’POLO s car f TIGER OF SWEDEN

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KALEOS

»L aMot t a« -

s wi ms ui t SHORT STORYS e ar r i n g s PIECES

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KALEOS »We il « -

s hir t TIGER OF SWEDEN trou s e r s STRELLSON r i n g s ARMANI X CHANGE

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GLCO

»B oc ca c c io« -

s hi r t JACK AND JONES

GLCO

»W il son« -

s h ir t STEFFEN SCHRAUT

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A

I E

A

SILHOUETTE »8710«

»8712«

Silhouette Special Edition Sun 20 YEARS TITAN MINIMAL ART photos EDA CALISTI

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Since 1999, SILHOUETTE has been raising the bar in terms of lightness and comfort with its Titan Minimal Art Collection. The rimless frames without hinges are the core offering of the quality eyewear manufacturer based in Linz, Austria. Weighing a mere 1.8 grams, the TMA models have already attracted the attention of NASA, who outfitted their astronauts with the minimalist frames on several space missions. Throughout the TMA collection’s 20-year history, SILHOUETTE has constantly advan-

Minimalism with frameless glasses.

SILHOUETTE has constantly advanced the status quo: Updates include new technical features and finishes, as well as collaborations with fashion designers such as Wes Gordon, Arthur Arbesser and Perret Schaad on limited editions in their own unique signature styles. Speaking of styles, for the past seven years, the design department has been guided by Roland Keplinger, Head of Design. To celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary, Roland walked us through the TMA Special Edition Sun featuring four highly expressive micro shapes.

Hello Roland, please provide a bit of background on your career so far.

next door to the design department. It’s all tightly connected.

What are your general priorities in terms of design?

I’m a trained product designer and before joining SILHOUETTE,

In our reduced design language, the tangible element is impor-

I spent ten years working at an agency where I developed and

tant, the haptics. Lines that flow, no hard edges. I like to call

designed products all across the consumer goods segment.

it ‘sensual simplicity’ – exemplified in our Titan Minimal Art

For the past seven years you have focused exclusively on eyewear for SILHOUETTE, one of the largest independent eyewear labels. What defines this brand?

family.

It’s been 20 years since you launched the collection. What was the impetus?

SILHOUETTE represents minimalism, perfect comfort, quality

My colleague Gerhard Fuchs, the creator of Titan Minimal Art

and Austrian craftsmanship.

(TMA), was simply looking to reduce eyewear frames to the bare fundamentals. Nothing more, nothing less. The first attempts

ow important is the label Made in Austria to you?

were still based on steel, but the concept really came full circle

We are proud to range among the few manufacturers who produce entirely in Europe. Our production site is in a water protection area, which comes with strict guidelines. For SILHOUETTE,

with titanium. It also perfectly fit the zeitgeist at the time. n how far?

sustainability and environmental consciousness are no empty

Reductionism and minimalism applied in this way to an eyewear

marketing promises, but a tradition put into action for decades

frame was quite revolutionary back then. One of our mantras in

now.

Are you able to converge all business areas in one location?

day-to-day operations remains, ‘Nothing feels like a SILHOUETTE.’ And has this approach changed at all for the latest collection?

Yes, we handle our entire development and manufacturing at

Yes, the TMA collection set out to question everything. Does a

one site. Prototype creation, R&D and construction are right

frame require hinges? Do lenses have to be fitted with screws?

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SILHOUETTE »8167«

»8 7 1 1 «

Are there ways to rethink eyewear?

without having to think about it in the meantime. It’s perfectly

What are the answers you arrived at?

suited for that. We are currently working on a special case to

The collection is characterized by absolute reductionism. Form

make stowing and retrieving the glasses even more intuitive. he name of the collection clearly re ects the use of titanium in

follows function. Embossing the titanium wire creates the flex zone with the characteristically fluent outlines. The original TMA

the frames. What is special about this raw material?

still remains the lightest frame and with less weight comes more

In our TMA family, we implement a special beta titanium alloy,

comfort. By opting for a rimless frame, we unlocked countless

which is custom-tailored for specific frames. This helps us ensure

varieties of lens shapes that can be adapted to the individual

the right ratio between flexibility and stability. In our temples,

wearer.

we allow maximum tolerances around 0.02 mm in thickness for

ow important is this reduction of weight to you?

an equally distributed flex!

You like to refer to ‘high-tech titanium’ in this context. What’s

For SILHOUETTE, everything revolves around feeling. How do

the story?

the edges and transitions feel, how does the frame fit? Lightness is essentially the fundamental element behind every SILHOUETTE

Exactly this special know-how around the right alloy and titani-

frame. Which is also the reason for the constant advancements in

um processing. It extends from raw material to reduction parts

our second material, the high-tech polymer SPX. Characteristics

all the way to embossing and surface finishes. Our quality control

applying to TMA also figure in our other collections.

process can be rather nit-picky.

The hingeless concept is rather unique, but it also prevents

What ind of customer type is the MA collection designed for?

folding the glasses. s that a problem?

At this point, TMA has been around for 20 years and is considered

No, absolutely not. The TMA is primarily aimed at 24/7 wea-

a design classic. I think that the TMA is timeless and can cater to

rers. They put it on in the morning and wear it into the evening,

a variety of target groups via specific lens shapes. It looks great 67

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A

Upscale branding on the temple tips.

oversized with a slight tint on young wearers! Delicateness and minimalism are also trending again. ow important is the MA collection for S

U

overall?

The Titan Minimal Art is not only the core offering for SILHOUETTE in terms of design, but with over 12 million pieces sold it

also creates a nice share of our sales.

For the 20th anniversary, you’re launching the limited Special Edition Sun.

ow many models are part of the collection?

The Special Edition consists of four models and will only be available for a limited time.

What were the main inspirations for designing the four new models?

For the design, we were inspired by old design sketches for the original TMA. In the late 1990s, early 2000s, the TMA line already featured relatively small lenses. We picked up this idea and took it into the here-and-now, only sharper, more extreme and geometrical. n how far?

We are focusing on basic geometric shapes. Circle, square, hexagon, plus a tiny cat eye. In the hexagon in particular and the round shape, we minimized overall size by the tiny wings. This results in very expressive micro shapes. Except for the cat eye, these models are all rather unisex compatible.

What inds of lenses are you implementing?

The color palette is rather classic, all models are only released in gold and silver reflection. The lenses remain pure titanium. This emphasizes the graphic effect and refers to our anniversary.

Can we look forward to more special editions throughout the year of your anniversary?

The micro shape collection is our kick-off to the 20 years of TMA celebration. Over the course of the year we’ll be launching more special collections in order to celebrate and showcase the diversity of the TMA. We are excited. Thanks for the interview, Roland. www.silhouette.com 68

photos HARLING & DARSELL s t yli n g DAVOR JELUSIC h air & m ake -up SABINA PINSONE mod el LUISE OVERMEYER a t IZAIO

TE H TA

KOBERG

» 6 0 35«

The »6035« and »6036« from the new designline.

»6036«

New Designline

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T E C H TA L K

The hinge of the new line works well with thin temples.

KOBERG – MADE IN GERMANY

Two generations of hinges – the cylindrical design ensures design consistency.

KOBERG

+ TENTE has been a well-known eyewear distributor for many

years now. In 2013, the company based in the German town of Munster also launched its own eyewear collection. And since the apple does not fall far from the tree, it was named KOBERG. The brand DNA revolves around high-grade, milled stainless steel and acetate in a fully Made in Germany package marked by hand-crafted quality.

KOBERG »6 0 3 2 « -

d re ss DIANA VILJEVAC

In 2019, the brand added a second line to the collection. It introduces a modern, international look via frontal frame sections milled from a single block. The unmistakable calling card of the collection – in KOBERG tradition – is once again the hinge design, now interpreted in a lightweight, delicate version. The new hinge takes the cylindrical shape of the previous screwless hinge and adds a new spin: Now featuring a single screw, the new hinges unlock extremely slim flanges and temple shapes.

Supporting the new venture, KOBERG is also taking a new approach in brand communications. With subtle and understated campaigns like The Artist and The Gentleman, the label creates a modern persona for its latest collections.

Strong without being loud, the designs do the talking in this nicely executed new line.

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www.koberg-tente.de

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TIO

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When Dreams Come True CHARMANT MEETS FRENCH CHARM

photos EDA CALISTI

The inner workings of an eyewear brand leading up to the launch of a new collection tend to remain a mystery for the average customer. But here’s an inside scoop: For the titanium capsule collection CHARMANT by Caroline Abram, it all began with

the strong desire to create a product line specifically for women. A line that embodies feminine and timeless elegance. Nothing less. To make it happen, CHARMANT enlisted French creative designer Caroline Abram, who is known for her signature French chic that would add a subtle dose of glamor Te second brow line adds a special twist to three models in the collection.

to the limited-edition release.

CHARMANT » CH12551« Imaginative and lightweight, this model is aimed at flirtatious ladies not afraid of wearing bold styles. The seductive loo is achieved by a second, colored brow line crafted from titanium.

» C H1 2 5 5 4 « Another rather understated and feminine model. Colorful titanium adds a subtle sheen while the soft and delicate temple tips ensure maximum comfort.

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TIO

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CHARMANT »CH12556« A reserved style, yet never boring. The minimalist finish emphasi es the delicate lines and contours in this model.

» CH 1 2 5 6 0 « efined and self-confident. A model for unafraid women with ambitious fashion sense. ubtle, upward-pointing lines add to the feminine aesthetic. Colorful titanium adds an understated sheen.

Fast forward to Spring 2019 and the premiere collection consisting of eleven fresh models in colored titanium has arrived. With this capsule collection, CHARMANT is catering to elegant, moHigh-end finish on frames and temples crafted from titanium.

dern, and self-confident women who value aesthetics and lifestyle. The blend of colorful graphical elements and traditional titanium crafted in Japan has a dazzling effect on wearers as well as the creator herself.

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“This is my first time designing for a brand other than my own. The challenge was to stay in line with the CHARMANT DNA while at the same time injecting some feminine glamor.” – Caroline Abram

CHARMANT »C H 1 2 5 5 2 « A highly expressive model that loosens up a rather sober shape by adding a double brow line for an entirely new context.

»CH12557« With its unusual and three-dimensional shape, the 1 55 might ta e the crown as the most flamboyant style in this capsule collection by aroline Abram.

Strong aesthetic: three-dimension shape from premium titanium.

Weighing in at a mere six grams, these titanium frames bridge the difficult gap between technology and elegance. Design, colors and finesse, precision, quality and comfort – these lightweights pack a heavy dose of everything. As the French would say, Mission accomplie. www.charmant.com

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KALEOSCOLLECTION.COM @KALEOSCOLLECTION

MR. LEIGHT »B an z a i« -

t ur tle ne ck & jacke t KARL LAGERFELD

Tinted Lenses

BY Ol ive r S p ie s [MUNICH] s t yli n g KATHARINA GRUSZCZYNSKI a t PHOENIX-AGENTUR h ai r & m ake - up PHILIPP LAWRENZ a t PHOENIX-AGENTUR mod els ADIMA ZÜLICH a t MUNICH-MODELS & SARAH BATT a t VIVA MODELS BERLIN p os tp roduc tion PX5 MÜNCHEN GMBH

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MR. LEIGHT » Ma ke n a « -

t e d d y MARIN MARGIELA s ca r f HERMÉS coa t PATRIZIA PEPE

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NEUBAU

» Domi n i k « -

t ur t le n e c k ERIKA CAVALLINI ja c ke t JOSEPH

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NEUBAU »Da ni« -

jacke t PAUL SMITH scar f HERMÉS

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ETNIA BARCELONA »C arl sb a d S un« -

jac ke t GUESS s car f STYLIST’S OWN e ar r in g HERMÉS

80

ETNIA BARCELONA »Mal ibu B e a ch S un« -

jacke t GUESS s car f STYLIST’S OWN

81

LINDBERG »8 1 0 1 « -

blou s e KARL LAGERFELD

82

LINDBERG »2286« -

d re ss PAUL SMITH

83

GÖTTI

» R A0 2 « -

coa t STRENESSE s ca r f HERMÉS

84

GÖTTI

» R A0 1 « -

s ca r f HERMÉS

85

INVU

»T 1912B« -

e ar r r i n g s HSD/PBSA

86

リ ヒ テ ン ベ ル ク

Modell ME 1031 Lichtenberg | www.makellos-potsdam.de

LINDBERG

»Spir it T it an iu m 81 0 5 B 2 «

photos STEFAN DONGUS a ss i s t ant KILIAN AMREHN p roduc tion CARO ROSS & JANA LUDWIG s t yli n g NINA FRÖHLICH h ai r & m ake - up HOLGER WEINS re touch STEPHANIE WENCEK t ale nts INGA a t TUNE MODEL MANAGEMENT, RONYA a t NO TOYS, LYNN, MARUSCHKA & SELLY 88

Digital First #April LINDBERG SUN COLLECTION CAMPAIGN SHOOT Production: On-location shoot and video production with five female models at different urban spots in ologne Distribution: Single-topic newsletter April 2019 Just in time for the summer, designer label LINDBERG da les audiences by dropping a highly fashionable sunglasses collection. For today’s modern and cosmopolitan women, the anish brand offers a wealth of e clusive new styles. All models feature rather delicate designs, supplemented by LINDBERG’s signature titanium temples. everal models are constructed in an e ually lightweight and stylish rimless construction. ut ma e no mista e And there’s more The collection also includes styles with delicate

rimless does not e ual boring in these cases.

in many cases transparent

acetate front sections.

These models attain an e clusive loo via the addition of a curved titanium brow line. The titanium follows the shape of the acetate frame almost all the way before completing the upper edge by itself. The resulting gap between the front and the acetate bridge creates an ultra-modern double bridge loo , another stunning design achievement from the designers in Aarhus, Denmark. ith five female models and the latest LINDBERG styles in our luggage, we travelled through urban ologne to stage the modern frames with the tinted lenses in an appropriate setting. In addition to the many images, we also produced the video clip ‘ own In A econd’. Images and video were launched in April in a single-topic newsletter.

89

ØRGREEN

»Q u a nt u m 3 . 1 2 Snow Sun« -

top DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

Clone Wars

BY U lr i ch H a r t m a n n [BERLIN] s t yli n g KONSTANTINOS GKOUMPETIS h a i r & m ake - up DIRK NEUHÖFER a ss i s t ant ROBERT KLEIN mo d els ANSO a t MIRRRS MODELS & MARTA a t TFM MODELS

90

ØRGREEN

»Q u ant u m 3 . 1 2 S un« -

blou s e EMILIO PUCCI via MATCHESFASHION

91

SILHOUETTE »8171« -

d re ss MARCEL OSTERTAG

92

SILHOUETTE »8 1 6 5 « -

s ui t DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

»8 1 6 4 «

93

FLEYE

»Z on ale« -

t ed d y JACK IRVING 94

FLEYE

»Clou d« -

outfi t MARINA HOERMANSEDER 95

MAKELLOS »ME7018«, -

ja c ke t THE BESPOKER cor s e t MARINA HOERMANSEDER

96

MAKELLOS »ME7011« -

h a t TOM TAILOR blou s e s WORKINGTITLES e a r r i n g JANE KÖNIG

97

GÖTTI

»PS 0 5 «

98

S A LT.

»A u dre y« -

top DIANE VON FÜRSTENBERG 99

JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY »Me m e nto « -

outfi t MARCEL OSTERTAG 100

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

EYEVAN X DENNIS MORRIS » Sputni k «

102

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

Eyevan x Dennis Morris photo STEFAN DONGUS, mod el SEBASTIAN a t MOST WANTED s tills RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

EYEWEAR FROM A PHOTOGRAPHER’S PERSPECTIVE EYEVAN has been the darling of boutique opticians for

many years now. And there’s a reason: The Japanese label not only provides excellent quality but continues to surprise with equally new and innovative collections and interesting collaborations. In March, EYEVAN launched a special capsule collection together with photographer Dennis Morris. The British lens man is famous for his work in the music business, including iconic shots of Bob Marley and the Sex Pistols that are part of permanent contemporary art exhibits the world over.

But aside from photography, Morris is also passionate about designs with unique aesthetics. So when EYEVAN offered a chance to collaborate on a capsule collection, the iconic photographer was ready to rock and roll. For a design theme, Morris adapted technical features from photography – like camera cases and film boxes – into the frame designs and elaborate packaging. We caught up with Dennis to learn about the backstory.

103

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

EYEVAN X DENNIS MORRIS

» Uptow n«

»Sput n i k«

104

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

ow and when did the collaboration with

AN come about?

And how would you rate

AN in this regard?

I had a show of my Liam Gallagher images in Tokyo last April and

The craftsmanship in their product is extraordinary. The atten-

the creative team at EYEVAN approached me regarding doing a

tion to detail, the beauty and functionality of their packaging is

collaboration project with them.

amazing.

Were you surprised?

Let’s talk about what you created together. How many models does your collection include?

I was surprised and delighted!

So you were instantly on board?

There are two models, the »Sputnik« and »Uptown«.

What was your general approach to designing these pieces?

Yes, I’ve always wanted to create a glasses collection.

It‘s rather unusual for a photographer to deal with eyewear

I wanted to create a collection around photography. So we

design. Why are you interested in eyewear?

bounced around ideas for the glasses and the packaging. n how far is this re ected in the Uptown model?

I love glasses, I adore glasses. I personally own a very large collection of frames that I have collected on my travels and have

We worked with a sprocket-design on the temples.

With its oversi ed frame and the curved lenses the Uptown

customized over the years.

What do you mean by customi ed ?

loo s li e a throwbac to the

s or

s. s that a coincidence?

Customization in terms of changing the color of the lenses,

Not at all! This period plays an important role in my photography

making sunglasses into reading glasses or vice versa.

and the »Uptown« is a style that black artists from this time could

EYEVAN is one of the top Japanese eyewear brands. To what

have worn.

extent do you feel connected to Japan or the Japanese

What about the second model the Sputni

mentality?

?

With the »Sputnik« I also wanted to reference my photography

I feel extremely connected to Japan and its culture. I admire how

from this period.

Who among your subjects from this time period do you imagine

people work together, not against each other, and how things work harmoniously. I admire the quality, innovation and design of Japanese products.

as the perfect fit for this model?

The »Sputnik« is something that John Lydon could have worn at

105

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

It’s all about details. The temples on the »Uptown« give a nod to analog film strips... the beginning of his project Public Image Ltd. (PiL).

What are the product features in the Sputni relationship to photography?

that highlight the

There is a special mirrored rim on the lens of the »Sputnik«, with numbers and letters, similar to the numbers you would find on a camera lens ring.

How many colorways are available for these two models and what are your personal favorites?

Four colors for »Sputnik« – my favorite is blue – and six for »Uptown«, where my favorite is tortoise shell.

The packaging also seems to be inspired by photography equipment.

Yes, the boxes are inspired by original Kodak film boxes. ...on the »Sputnik«, lenses are reminiscent of camera lenses with their reflective border and the hand-feel of the metal frame.

The overall package really feels valuable. Do you have any special initiatives planned around the collaboration?

Yes, we planned two exhibitions. The first one in March at 180 the Store in New York and a second one in June at Bookmarc in Tokyo.

Thanks for the interview and congrats on this exclusive capsule. www.eyevaneyewear.com

106

COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d ition »C oral C ov e « blou s e &OTHER STORIES trou s e r s ANA JAKOBS

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d i t ion »Sil v e r ton « sh ir t XUITS

108

COLLECTION SHOOT

finish.

the high-gloss coating for a more understated

BLACKFIN

BLACKFIN

B l a ck E d ition »Oa kl a n d «

»Juniper Bay«, the »Oakland« goes easy on

As a masculine counterpart to the feminine

frame and high-gloss coating.

elegance through a combination of matted

B l a ck E d ition »Jun ip e r B a y«

Feminine cat eye style with an extra dose of

Identity – Same Same

BLACKFIN 2019

BLACKFIN has become increasingly modern in its latest collections. It’s refreshing to see the company based in the Southern Dolomite

mountains chart its own path. For a Collection Shoot of 2019 BLACKFIN highlights, we are staging the new frames with a set of photo models that are identical couples. Striking similarities on one side are juxtaposed with individual characters on the other. The common denominators are greater than the sum of all parts. The combination of individuals creates a relaxed sense of beauty. It’s a creative adaptation of the multi-faceted identity of the Italian premium eyewear brand.

109

COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d i t ion » Ne pt u n e B e a ch « Modern aviator design with a front covered entirely in highpolished gold for a contrast to the raw blac frame.

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d ition »C oral C ov e « Extraordinary shapes personifying the duality behind BLACKFIN: The one-piece titanium frame embeds round gradient lenses in angular, flat-beveled rims.

110

COLLECTION SHOOT

On one hand, BLACKFIN is breaking free from fashion and trend stereotypes. On the other, the brand is making clear and fashionforward statements with its clean lines and special color effects. Through the blend of highquality Italian eyewear manufacturing expertise with modern, ambitious designs, BLACKFIN is finding its own style – and identity.

BLACKFIN

What all their diverse glasses have in common is a high level of quality in terms of

B l a c k E d i t ion »Da rl i n g ton « Understated while at the same time modern and feminine. The »Darlington« is a perfect accompaniment for any occasion.

materials and construction. Most frames are crafted with one-piece titanium fronts and ultra-flexible temples from beta titanium. This

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d it ion »Ju n ip e r B a y« s ui t ZARA

suit ZARA

makes the entire collection entirely nickel-free, bio-compatible and hypoallergenic. When it comes to sunnies, they all feature anti-reflective lenses.

The label from the Agordino region excels at blending a high fashion appeal with technical finesse in its Black Edition. This unique combination of tech and glamour showcases titanium frames at the highest level. Ten best-selling BLACKFIN models receive their high-gloss fini-

shing via a coating with the patented BLACKFIN Nano Plating method. The understated frames in base colors such as black, navy and brown receive an extra layer of detail through colored accents. These colors are applied atom-by-atom in a vacuum vaporization technique, resulting in extraordinary color effects and beautiful colors guaranteed to last.

111

COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

B l a ck E d it ion » Ve nt u ra« Extra strong. The masculine, retroinspired shape of the

entura

ma es a bold statement with its special double bridge effect and beautiful gradient lenses.

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d ition »Sil v e r ton« A masterclass in reductionism: Stylish evolution of the modern

ja c ke t ZARA MAN

double-bridge frame that eliminates the nose pads. top BISOU’S PROJECT trou s e r s RE/DONE ORIGINALS

112

COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

B l a ck E d ition »N e w O rle a ns« A true classic. Perfectly executed panto frame with a reinterpreted bridge crafted from beta titanium. sh ir t FRED PERRY

113

COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d it ion »Ve nt u ra« dre ss &OTHER STORIES bl a z e r ZARA

BLACKFIN

B l a ck E d ition »Ne pt une B e a ch « s hi r t WEEKDAY pullov e r VIKTOR & ROLF trou s e r s TIGER OF SWEDEN

BLACKFIN

B l a c k E d i t ion »Ne w O rle a n s «

114

COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

» C a p e Ma y « The »Cape May« is living proof that models from the original BLACKFIN collection still turn heads in fashion circles. Bold cat eye style with wellbalanced color combinations in the titanium front.

The Black Edition models are far from the only eyecatchers in the line-up. The original BLACKFIN collection also stuns with self-confident styles and high-end finishes. www.blackfin.eu 115

reflective gradient lenses underline

with feminine cat eye style. Slightly

avantgarde, no-nose pads look

unnyside combines an

RN U T

» L e v e n«

its stature as a fashion item.

BLACKFIN

116

The

photos STEFAN DONGUS a ssi s t ants JANA LUDWIG & KILIAN AMREHN h ai r & m a ke -up KERSTIN HUESGES a t 21AGENCY s t yl in g NINA FRÖHLICH a t 21AGENCY mo d el s ANASTASIYA, VERONIKA & SEBASTIAN a t MOST WANTED, HANNA & LIN a t IZAIO, SONJA a t SPIN, ADELINA a t COCAINE, PHILIP a t M4 lo ca tion COLOGNE, STUDIO LICHTSTRASSE

COLLECTION SHOOT

Ultra-modern shape that also

eliminates the need for nose pads.

The neon colored version makes an

especially bold fashion statement.

E M

Nr. 26 – II / 2019 EUR 15,–

Identity

ENGLISH GERMAN

faceaface-paris.com

EDITORIAL

YOU, MYSELF & I “Me, myself, and I, that’s all I got in the end... Hey, I know that I will never disappoint myself.”

Beyoncé

Me, Myself and I – this trinity has been well-known since the days of iconic rappers De La Soul and went viral when Beyoncé served her take in 2003. It’s all about the several layers of our personality. Because in the end, there’s not just a single I – there’s always another side, another way of thinking and another way of feeling. All these facets are the pieces that compose our very own individual identity. It’s more than the sum of all parts – and totally unique – although some aspects sometimes find their match in other people. When we happen to agree on a certain point with another individual, there’s that emotional spark, that instant connection. It’s a type of rapport that not only exists between siblings. Even complete strangers can turn out to be on the same wavelength and become our soulmates. These are people we naturally gravitate towards because when we’re around them, everything flows with ease, completely naturally.

For our cover shoot with BLACKFIN, we have chosen four couples that share such a special connection, as is evident by just looking at their appearance. They are each other’s true reflection. This theme of mirrored identities also pops up across other series in this issue, like ‘Clone Wars’ shot by Ulrich Hartmann or ‘Diversity Again’ by Florian Renner. We even went as far as incorporating the concept of mirror images in this issue’s graphic design: SPECTR #26 is a mirror turned upon itself, there is no front or back, just two different viewpoints. It’s also double the fun – you can read the issue from two directions to double your pleasure.

SD

17

Bogey Down

ANDY WOLF IN SAO PAULO 26

Synaesthesia By Reiz

EATING CAKES – SEEING COLOR S 34

Urban Farming

BY SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTET TER 36

Digital First I

NE W ETNIA BARCELONA ST YLES 48

Lonely Encounter

BY TOBIAS WIRTH & HANIBALL SALIBA 50

20 Years Titan Minimal Art

SILHOUET TE SPECIAL EDI TION SUN 65

New Designline

U RO N

When Dreams Come True

CHARMAN T X CAROLINE ABRAM 72

T

N UR M

KOBERG – MADE IN GERMANY 70

D

A E

IC! BERLIN REFLEC TION 114

Digital First III

Female Supremacy

BY RACHEL JIAM 102 »JEFFER IES« FROM KALEOS 100

A Voyeur’s Perspective

The Art Of Craftsmanship MASUNAGA FROM JAPAN 93

BY ANGELIKA BUET TNER 80

South Of Houston

BY FLOR IAN RENNER 66

Diversity Again

Standardized Blue Blocker Eyewear THE BOOK CLUB 64 FACE À FACE IN PAR IS 58

Bohemian Mastery

BARTON PERREIRA X SPINELLI KILCOLLIN 56

Tinted Lenses

Luxury Meets Rounded Elegance

BY OLI VER SPIES 76

BY HARLING DAR SELL 44

Digital First II

Berlin Requiem

LINDBERG SUN COLLEC TION 88

BY STEFAN KAPFER 30

Clone Wars

Momentum Of Red

BY ULR ICH HARTMANN 90

NE W TECH BY POR SCHE DESIGN 28

Collab Of The Issue

Glued Visor

E YE VAN X DENNIS MORR IS 102

MOREL – FASHION FORWARD IN CAPE TOWN 21

Identity– Same Same

Time Warp

BLACKFIN COLLEC TION SHOOT 108

CONTENT

003

Time Warp

COLLECTION SHOOT

photos STEFAN KAPFER p roduc tion LUSTRE h ai r & m ake - up MARRY a t LUSTRE s t yli n g CLAIRE a t LUSTRE mod els OLIVIA & VERA SMITH a t BOSS MODELS CPT loca tion CAPE TOWN

MOREL – FASHION FORWARD MOREL is celebrating an incredible 140 years of tradition as

a quality eyewear label this year. It’s a major reason to party, but the company from the French Jura region also wants to stay true to its heritage. But that doesn’t mean being stuck in the past – just the opposite. The label has been making a strong statement by injecting increasing amounts of fashion attitude into its collections. For the anniversary year, MOREL is raising the bar with on-point marketing campaigns and fashion-forward 2019 eyewear styles. The 2019 models we received were so on-trend that we just had to bring them along to a photo shoot in South Africa. To celebrate MOREL’s anniversary, our photographer and team remained as close to the brand’s DNA as possible during the shoot. Welcome to a clash of modern-day eyewear styles and historic backdrops. For the complete package, we asked the brand’s communications director Amélie Morel Martin how she feels about the new models. www.morel-france.com

MOREL

»20042K« “I really like this model, it’s casual meets chic.”

21

COLLECTION SHOOT

MOREL

» 6 0 0 1 4 M« “I love the simple, yet fashionable style of these sunglasses, the intricate lines, the evergreen pilot shape and the flash of the flat mirrored lenses.”

MOREL

»60057M« “I love this model, both for its on-trend retro style and for the detailing of the temples. It‘s very sophisticated without being flashy.”

22

COLLECTION SHOOT

MOREL

» 2 0 0 4 0 K« “This feminine butterfly shape is emphasized by a translucent orange highlight.”

23

COLLECTION SHOOT

MOREL

» 2 0 0 4 1 K« “I simply adore this model: a musthave with a true designer feel, and very glamorous marbled red acetate.”

24

COLLECTION SHOOT

MOREL

»60 0 5 5 M « & »6 0 0 5 6 M « “I love how the ‘combination’ is completely reworked. The redesign is trendy and eyecatching.”

25

COLLECTION SHOOT

MOREL

»20038K« & »2 0 0 3 7 K « “For me, it‘s most definitely THE sunglass design that best reflects the image of our latest collection with its sophisticated cat-eye shapes, refined architecture and shimmering colors.”

26

NEW TECH

PORSCHE DESIGN »G lu e d V i sor « sh ir t ASOS ja cke t VETEMENTS

28

NEW TECH

Porsche Design »Glued Visor« (P´8664) in-place technique’, used for the very first time in eyewear design. A photo STEFAN DONGUS, t ale nt ALEX a t IZAIO

six-axis robot applies the adhesive coating to the frame with millimeter precision, securing the silver-reflective lenses in place without bolts or other inserts. This process was ins-

THE FUTURE HAS LANDED

According to the ancient principle of Yin and Yang, every force in this world is balanced by its exact opposite counterpart. This is also the case in the eyewear universe: The enduring trend towards handcrafted quality and retro aesthetics finds its counterbalance in progressive high-tech materials and manufacturing methods. And the current hype surrounding minimalist micro frames in true 1990s-style is juxtaposed by generously appointed masks and shield glasses covering the wearer’s entire face.

This head-on collision between polar opposites is exactly where future innovations originate. For proof, look no further than the latest »Glued Visor« (P´8664) model courtesy of PORSCHE DESIGN. These highly technical shield glasses crafted from premium

pired by the form-fitting of windshields during car manufacturing and perfected over a four-year period involving the design studio F. A. Porsche in the town of Zell am See and engineers at Rodenstock in Munich.

For added comfort, the temple tips are coated in a specifically developed polymer.

Straight out the gate and even before launching into optical retail

titanium make a clear statement of where the

in late January 2019, the »Glued

design journey is headed for the label founded

Visor« already garnered massive at-

in 1972: towards progressive materials, inno-

tention: The special sunglasses limi-

vative manufacturing processes and futuristic

ted to 911 pieces (the number says

aesthetic.

Porsche) took home the 2019 Ger-

Looking underneath the hood, the »Glued

man Design Award in the Excellent

Visor« is a showcase of PORSCHE DESIGN’s

Product Design category. Arriving in

ongoing love affair with the in-house auto-

specialty retail in style, the »Glued

motive design division. From a technical per-

Visor« (P´8664) ships in an exclu-

spective, the seamless combination between

sive edition box plus elegant carry-

exquisitely molded polycarbonate lenses and

ing case. If you’re looking to score a

the high-grade titanium frame manufactured

pair, better step on the gas.

in Japan is only possible thanks to an innovative adhesive technique developed in the automotive industry: the so-called ‘formed-

29

www.porsche-design.com

Momentum Of Red

BY S te fa n Ka p fe r [DUSSELDORF]

p roduc tion & re touch H60 PRODUKTION cre a ti v e d i re c tor CLAUDIA FELSER h ai r & m ake - up LISA a t 21AGENCY s t yli n g LUCIO a t 21AGENCY mod els FELIPE V. a t MEGA MODELS HH, ANTONIA MCCUE a t M4 MODELS & SARAH a t ELENA MODELS

KOBERG »6 0 3 5 « -

s hi r t & jacke t ODEUR STUDIOS

30

KOBERG »6037« -

top PUGNAT

31

IC! BERLIN »A lle y -oop« -

dre ss STINE GOYA

32

IC! BERLIN

»No -C omply« -

dre ss MYKKE HOFFMAN

33

34

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER » G ra y « -

s hi r t SCHEPPERHEYN p a nt s STYLIST’S OWN

35

MARKUS T » L1 0 2 6 « -

out f it ODEUR STUDIOS b oot s DR. MARTENS

36

MARKUS T »M3354« -

outfi t STINE GOYA

MARKUS T » L1 0 2 8 « -

ju mps u i t & s ho e s STINE GOYA

37

EYEVAN 7285 »C or so -E « -

jumpsuit STINE GOYA

38

EYEVAN 7285 »7 7 9 « -

buc ke t h a t STINE GOYA s hi r t SCOTCH AND SODA p ants SCHEPPERHEYN

39

BLACKFIN

»Ja c kson ville« -

s hi r t SCOTCH AND SODA

40

laeyeworks.com

CHECK OUR SPECTR IN MOTION SECTION FOR THE LATEST VIDEOS WITH TOP NOTCH DESIGNER LABELS AND FIND YOUR INSPIRATION FOR CONTEMPORARY EYEWEAR.

CAZAL »701« -

top MYKKE HOFMANN

44

Berlin Requiem

BY H a rl in g & Da rs e l l [BERLIN]

s t yli n g DAVOR JELUSIC h ai r & m ake - up SABINA PINSONE mod els BREE SMITH a t MODELWERK & ZEN CHANG a t CORE

CAZAL »701« -

s h ir t FRED PERRY

45

FHONE

» Od e tt e « -

coa t ESSENTIEL ANTWERP

46

I - S PA X »Sh an e« -

s hi r t FRED PERRY jacke t & p ants LEVI’S

47

FA C E À FA C E » Spa rk 2 « -

sh ir t FRED PERRY shoe s STINE GOYA ca rd i ga n PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

48

FA C E À FA C E » Sp a rk 1 « -

sh i r t MYKKE HOFMANN ca rd i ga n PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND s ho e s STINE GOYA p a nt s LEVI’S

49

LE SPECS

»B u n ny Hop« -

dre ss SELECTED

50

KOBERG

»K T 6036« -

ca rd i ga n PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND s hi r t NATHALIE BÄHR s ki r t JOSEPH

51

RES / REI »Ve ne z i a « -

dre ss XULY.BET

52

RES / REI » R om a« -

top STINE GOYA s ca r f &OTHER STORIES p a nt s ESSENTIEL ANTWERP

53

L.G.R

»L a l i b el a « -

jumpsui t S.OLIVER h a t FIONA BENNETT

54

CROSSFIRE

BARTON PERREIRA X SPINELLI KILCOLLIN »K u m a«

Barton Perreira x Spinelli Kilcollin LUXURY MEETS ROUNDED ELEGANCE

Who came up with the idea for the collaboration?

How did you pick this particular shape?

One of my obsessions is jewelry and I have been a fan of Spinelli

Spinelli Kilcollin strongly identifies with clean, architectural

Kilcollin for quite some time. With so many synergies between

design. We felt the round form was the perfect shape for a sun-

our companies, this collaboration just made sense. It has been a

glass collaboration bearing both our names.

true partnership from inception to launch, and we’re very proud

Have you already planned further joint projects?

of the special collection we’ve co-created.

What is the common ground between the two labels?

We do not have any additional plans to

5 Questions to Patty Perreira

We are both LA-based brands and

share at this time.

Would designing jewelry also appeal to you, Patty?

Absolutely and I already have, mainly

share a common passion for intricate craftsmanship and unpa-

for myself, family and friends. I’m thrilled that we could work

ralleled design. Creating a beautiful, handmade luxury product

with Spinelli Kilcollin to incorporate fine jewelry elements into my

without compromise.

designs for BARTON PERREIRA.

The two models »Kiso« and »Kuma« have a very similar shape.

56

CROSSFIRE

The »Kuma« model features a metal frame embedded in ultra-refined Japanese acetate. photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ Over the past few years, collaborations have emerged as a viable way for fashion brands to offer customers exciting products that are greater than the sum of their parts. Collabs feature special designs or materials far beyond standard collections. What’s more, collaborations tend to launch outside of rigid seasonal release schedules and keep things interesting. As a nice side effect, collabs always make for some great storytelling.

Known for great products and stories, quality eyewear brand BARTON PERREIRA just released a collab with luxury jewelry label

Spinelli Kilcollin in April. The two California brands have joined forces to create two frames, available in six colorways. The »Kiso« features a full-metal frame with temples adorned by Spinelli Kilcollin annulets.

For our photo shoot, we also received the »Kuma« combination frame in a blend between metal and Japanese acetate. This model is also upgraded with high-end annulets crafted from a variety of precious metals and decorated with diamonds in a fully customizable way. The resulting look is as upscale as it sounds and resonates with a demanding target group of luxury customers.

For the story behind the diamond-covered limited-edition collection, we talked to eyewear designer Patty Perreira and master jeweler Yves Spinelli in this issue’s Crossfire segment. www.bartonperreira.com Spinelli Kilcollin adds a luxe touch to the temples with his upscale jewelry.

How do you and Patty know each other?

metal is too heavy for eyewear. Instead, we used precious metal in

BARTON PERREIRA is carried in most of the luxury stores we

the annulets to accent the frames.

work with. Patty Perreira is also based in Los Angeles and we often

Which customers do you address with the collabo models?

see each other. We’ve been big fans of their eyewear for years, so

The shapes and colors are very versatile and unisex. This is im-

we were very excited to work together.

portant to us since we design our jewelry to be accessible to many

Can we also find your signature design DNA in the frame?

different customers. There is a universal appeal to these frames,

Most of our designs are connected

and we are very happy.

circles, so we wanted a round frame.

What’s the common denominator

Then we incorporated our small round annulets on the temple pieces

5 Questions to Yves Spinelli

which can be customized much like

between eyewear and jewelry design?

Eyewear is a perfect accessory that you

our jewelry.

can wear every day, in many different situations. It’s a very perso-

What are the special challenges when it comes to designing

nal accessory and can instantly change a look. It’s very similar to

jewelry for eyewear?

jewelry.

We were hoping to make frames out of solid gold or silver, but the 57

: COLLECTION SHOOT

FA C E À FA C E »Jone s 1 «

p a rk a & pu llo v e r IRIS VON ARNIM, p a nts PAUL & JOE, b a g SANDRO “I wanted to create an homage to the powerful and creative Grace Jones, who took the world by storm with her fabulous body and provocative attitude.

The style is introduced in expressive color combinations, where monochrome colors are boldly combined with stunning patterns. Her first name is Grace, let’s love it!”

58

photos PETRA OBERMÜLLER d i git al a ssis t a nt THORSTEN GREVE p roduc tion ANDREA KADLER h air & m a ke -up EMILIE PLUME a t BLOSSOM MANAGEMENT mod el IRINA a t LOUISA MODELS re touch BAVARIANRETOUCH loca tion PARIS

: COLLECTION SHOOT

Bohemian Mastery FACE À FACE 2019 HIGHLIGHTS

Created in Paris, FACE À FACE is a contemporary and artistic brand, always exploring the

avantgarde with a unique sense of audacity. The eyewear portfolio demonstrates a mastery of colors, form factors and expressions, creating eyewear as artwork. The new collection blends classic Art Deco designs with modern poetry, creating sophisticated and delicate concepts, each unique like fine sculptures. The color palette is soft yet bold, with explosive blue notes blending with rusty, earthy colors and delicate soft pastels. Playful transparencies highlight the contrasts between being and not being, challenging the viewer and creating optical illusions.

And what could be a more fitting

and producer Andrea

backdrop to capture the artistic soul of

Kadler staged the eye-

the Paris-based label than the French

wear collection that’s

capital itself? Our creative team hea-

bold in terms of colors

ded by photographer Petra Obermüller

and shapes in front of the Eiffel Tower. And for perspective, FACE À FACE head designer

Pascal Jaulent reveals the inspiration behind the designs of the new

FA C E À FA C E

frames.

» Dja z z1«

www.faceaface-paris.com

s w e a t e r TALLY WEIJL “The design was inspired by mixing the 1920s and 1930s Art Deco movement and the vibrant Jazz Age. When jazz debuted in Paris, it brought about a total revolution in European sound, music and rhythm. Let’s vibrate on the same tempo!”

59

: COLLECTION SHOOT

FA C E À FA C E »P r i s m2 «

ja cke t SHIRTAPORTER, blou s e KARL LAGERFELD “Look at this attitude! Through its radical geometry, the »Prism« sends rays of light into the new collection just like in this Paris morning light. The dramatic triangles lend shape to the frame, with a strong side bevel and sharp pointed edges. I like this radicality.”

» A nou k2«

coa t & pu l lov e r ULI SCHNEIDER n e c k l a ce ALAMA b y MANELLIS.COM “Where precious triangles become modern jewels, their presence or absence (when in crystal) is a reference to the concept of duality, one of the iconic references.”

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: COLLECTION SHOOT

FA C E À FA C E »Me y e r1«

jacke t INFERNO RAGAZZI “The »Meyer« frame echoes the aesthetic of the steel frame windows from the first Bauhaus manifesto by architects Meyer and Gropius.”

» Me y e r2«

ja c ke t PAUL & JOE blou s e BITTEN STETTER “The contrast between the white lines and mirrored lenses perfectly expresses this modernist statement.”

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: COLLECTION SHOOT

FA C E À FA C E » G a tsb y2«

ca p e IRIS VON ARNIM t e d d y PINKO b a n d a n a HUNKEMÖLLER “Elegant, sophisticated and provocative; just like the Great Gatsby. The graphical lines and elegant shapes are a tribute to the 1920s Art Deco aesthetic and color palette. The deconstruction of the frame’s lines creates an opening and lights up the front. A perfect match with the Paris Golden Age.”

»G ips e2«

s car f IRIS VON ARNIM, p ark a PINKO “The word »Gipse« is French for Gypsum, an elegantly structured crystal, which has inspired the sharp lines and graphical shape of this audacious design. I wanted to enter new territories for the shapes, so the geometry of gypsum appeared to be a perfect echo to architectural roots.”

62

T E C H TA L K

THE BOOK CLUB

» T h e L i z a rd O f Soz «

» Tw el v e Hun gr y B e n s«

» Dot A F re ck le An d Miss e d A R i d e«

» T h e Fa r t O f T he E el«

64

T E C H TA L K

DA to E pho

CAL

ISTI

The Book Club

STANDARDIZED BLUE BLOCKER EYEWEAR

Standardized reading glasses have been

THE BOOK CLUB’s collection are ‘screen’

around forever. These mass-produced specs

models without prescription values. What’s

mostly fall on the lower end of the quality

the story? Fashion style only? Eyewear with

spectrum, far below the level of excellence

demo lenses? Far from it: THE BOOK CLUB

found at optical stores. It‘s no surprise most

is addressing the fact that people now spend

reading glasses are purchased at drugstores

hours every day staring at screens, whether

or gas stations from no-name brands. But in

it’s at work or on the go with their phones

the bigger picture, the fundamental concept

and tablets. The fact that there are now apps

behind simple reading glasses is rather va-

to help with meditation is indicative of this

luable. As people get older, almost everyone

questionable development. As a fix, the

needs a pair of these glasses, or several pairs,

screen models provide ‘design for people

strategically placed wherever they may be

who need help reading bits and bytes’. They

needed. This still leaves the underlying prob-

eliminate the underlying problem of blue

lem of bottom-of-the-barrel quality and lack

light emitted from LED-screens and artifi-

of style common to cheap reading glasses.

cial light sources. Blue light stresses the eyes

Keeping in mind that people spend more and

and can cause headaches, dry eyes and sleep

more time looking at screens, thereby expo-

disorders, while also disrupting the body’s

sing their eyes to additional strain, this is a

hormone balance.

troubling state of affairs.

The main goal is to reduce the impact of

Tackling the problem, THE BOOK CLUB

blue light. All models in THE BOOK CLUB

introduces a collection of standardized rea-

portfolio are Blue Blocker Eyewear, featuring

ding glasses specifically aimed at increasing

blue-light screen coatings to filter 30 percent

the quality and style in this segment. The

of blue-light emissions and thereby reducing

Australian label is called a ‘club’ for a reason:

digital eye strain. The effect becomes clear

The frames cover the entire bandwidth of

at first sight: Simply looking through the

the design spectrum and allow opticians to

glasses, the world takes on a more subtle hue.

position reading glasses in their stores in an

Warmer, more pleasant. The frames come in

attractive manner.

attractive packaging and are entirely BPA-

The modern designs are available in

free and fully recyclable. The inaugural coll-

standardized lens strengths from 1.5 to 2.5,

ection features a diversity of styles for every

while a color-code system provides orien-

wearer and every occasion. They look great,

tation during self-performed vision tests

even when you’re not staring at a screen.

with a reading card. A special focus area of 65

www.tbceyewear.com

HOFFMANN N AT U R A L EYEWEAR

»22630«

»8410«

»4 0 - I V «

»2224«

66

REIZ

MASSADA

»He x a gon «

»D el a h a y e «

STRELLSON »S N33026«

STRELLSON » S N 3 3 02 7 «

Diversity Again

BY Fl oria n Re n n e r [LONDON]

s t yli n g SARAH ANN MURRAY a ss i s t ed b y ALLEGRA BARTOLI, ROSIE J FARNWORTH & EMILY BULFORD m ake - up TAYLOR SWITZER a t BEAUTII u s i n g BOBBI BROWN h a i r ELVIRE ROUX a t CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT u s i n g EVO HAIR a ssis t ed b y JORDAN FAVIER mo d els TASHI a t IMG, BRIANNA WOOD a t PRM, FAYE DAMEN a t ELITE, MARCUS SIVYER-ATWERE a t SELECT, ADAM KUNA a t PRM, TING YAN a t PRM, MICHAEL CHIMA a t NEXT & MADDY RICH a t SELECT

67

STRELLSON » S N 3 3 0 26 « -

sh i r t THE SILTED COMPANY sui t BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

68

STRELLSON »S N 3 3 0 2 7 « -

sh ir t GIEVES & HAWKES bl a z e r SLOWEAR

69

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »8410« -

blou s e COS s car f RUBINACCI t rou s e r s BARENA VENEZIA

70

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »40- I V « -

un d e r s hi r t AQUASCUTUM s hi r t BOSS

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »2224« -

sh i r t YMC, s w e a t e r WOODWOOD, d e n im s WEEKEND

71

REIZ

» Ju ra « -

polo s hi r t AQUASCUTUM shir t & p a nt s ROBERTO CAVALLI r in g & n e c kl a ce ALEX ORSO ne ck l a ce ALICE MADE THIS

72

REIZ

»H e x a gon« -

sh ir t YMC s w e a t e r WOODWOOD

73

MOREL

»20049« -

d re ss BOSS ja cke t BRUNELLO CUCINELLI s ca r f FENDI

74

MOREL

»6 0 0 5 3 « -

jump e r DANIEL W. FLETCHER sh ir t DEVEAUX jacke t STELLA McCARTNEY

75

MASSADA

» D el a h a y e « -

s u i t ZIMMERMANN vint a ge n e c kl a ce STYLIST’S OWN

76

MASSADA

»T he S c ul pt ure « -

s hi r t FINISTERRE tre nch coa t BOSS

77

MARTIN & MARTIN » Wolf« -

s hi r t BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ju mp e r RICHARD JAMES bl a z e r BENSON & CLEGG t ie BROOKS BROTHERS t rou s e r s MISSONI p e n PARKER not e p a d ETTINGER

78

South Of Houston

BY A n ge l ika B u e ttn e r [NEW YORK] a ss i s t ant YVONNE ALLAWAY s t yli n g SABINE FEUILLOLEY a t CREATIVESPACEARTISTS h ai r & m ake - up PAUL VENOIT a ss i s t ed b y MICHELLE p os tp roduc tion BENEDIKTE MESLIN mod els LINDSAY a t NEW YORK MODELS & VIC a t

NEW YORK MODELS MEN’S DIVISION

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L.A. EYEWORKS »Mol l u s k« -

suit WAN HUNG sh ir t UNIQLO shoe s WAN HUNG

L.A. EYEWORKS » S oa p D i sh « -

coa t DANIELA BARROS hi g h heels COACH

81

EINSTOFFEN »G lü c ksr it t e r« -

jacke t NICHOLAS K

82

EINSTOFFEN »Ha f n e r« -

bombe r jacke t YOU MUST CREATE

83

MASUNAGA »Vel a« -

t a n k top COSABELLA, p ants SCHAI, belt VINTAGE, hi g h heels COACH

84

MASUNAGA »G M S 114« -

jacke t ELIAS GURROLA

85

MODO »461« -

s w e a t e r JOSS MEDINA

MODO »690« -

ban d an a MONA SULTAN

86

87

S A LT.

»L el an d« -

ja c ke t & p ants CALVIN LUO, boots DR. MARTENS

88

S A LT.

»A u dre y « -

jumps ui t CHELSEA AND WALKER

89

KARMOIE »R i s e « -

d re ss WE DÚ b y COREON DÚ

KARMOIE

»E xplore r « -

d e ni m CALVIN LUO

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Charmant GmbH Europe | www.charmant.de | SN33025 BK

MORE THAN JUST A

SEPTEMBER, 27 - 30 TH 2019 Paris Nord Villepinte silmoparis.com

photo STEFAN DONGUS s tills RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

The Art Of Craftsmanshi

INTERVIEW

Tradition in 5th generation: Yasunori Masunaga

MASUNAGA

MASUNAGA OPTICAL ranges among Japan’s largest and most eminent eyewear manufacturers.

With a history going back to the year 1905, the company played a major part in establishing the Fukui prefecture in the western part of the main Honshu island as a hotbed of eyewear manufacturing. Japanese craftsmanship is highly regarded around the world and a large number of international companies are relying on Japan to manufacture their high-end eyewear. MASUNAGA still values manual craftsmanship in its production process and handles all manufacturing strictly in-house. In the bigger picture, the traditional company is driven by long-term goals rather than short-term profits, as explained by Mr. Yasunori Masunaga in our interview.

93

INTERVIEW

• •

MAJOR MILESTONES IN THE MASUNAGA HISTORY:

In 1911 masunaga wins its first Gold Medal at the National

Manufacturing Trade Exhibition.

Three solid gold optical frames were presented to the Showa

Emperor as a gift upon visiting masunaga optical, Fukui in 1933. In those days, the Emperor was regarded as the living god of Japan. The craftsmen who were to make the optical frames for the Emperor purified themselves every morning and dressed only in white while they were making these important frames. The optical frames presented at the time have

Mr. Masunaga, how many family generations have been leading

•

This is the fifth generation.

•

the company at this point?

masunaga optical premie-

red the production of eyeglasses in Fukui in June 1905. The company founder Gozaemon Masunaga brought in skilled craftsmen from Osaka and

• • •

Tokyo with the ambition of establishing the optical industry solidly in Fukui.

•

Was it difficult at the time?

not deteriorated and are still very beautiful after 80 years.

In 1970 masunaga frames »Custom-72« are placed in Osaka Expo Time Capsule.

In the year 2000, masunaga is awarded the award for best sunglasses as the first Japanese company in the Silmo Awards.

In 2002, the masunaga 1905 retail store officially opens in Aoyama, Tokyo. masunaga wins a Silmo Award for three consecutive years

in 2013, 2014 and 2015.

In 2014, Masunaga designed by Kenzo Takada launches as a collaboration project of masunaga optical with Mr. Kenzo Takada.

In the same year, masunaga designs and produces spectacle frames for the European, American, and Asian markets.

He entered into the industry

litmus test for passing our craftsman’s inspections is the ‘tactile experience’. Our innovative technology involves the strength of the entire company as a unit. We are relentless in solving challenges, which leads us to the discovery of new know-how.

Speaking of new know-

how, in what ways have the

demands placed on eyewear brands changed over the last ten years?

Over the past ten years, the

the hard way. At first, eyeglasses manufactured in Fukui were

eyewear user tends to demand niche brands. The masunaga

regarded to be third-rate in the world. In order to raise the quality

brand is a niche brand in the market and the demand for it is gro-

standards of the products, Gozaemon established a guild-like

wing every year. This means that we are looking not only towards

system where full-fledged craftsmen could create their own busi-

optical frame function and fashion but going many steps further

nesses. Thanks to this system, the number of eyeglass craftsmen

into making a better visual experience for the eyewear user. In

increased gradually, and the optical trade spread all over Fukui.

order to continue to improve our daily lives, eyewear must evolve

Fukui is still famous for eyewear today. MASUNAGA has played

as society changes. We are committed to work towards this goal,

a major part with over one hundred years of tradition. What’s the

allowing us to go into the next century of masunaga optical

secret for a brand to survive for so long?

with pride, determination and confidence that we will achieve our

masunaga craftsmanship is applied consistently throughout

every stage of our manufacturing process. In this era of mass production, outsourcing and cost reduction, masunaga has chosen

goals.

What is your philosophy when it comes to achieving these goals?

to mainly continue our hands-on creation processes.

Our philosophy is to make the best possible product at any cost.

How does your manufacturing process start?

Of course, we aim to be profitable but masunaga has always

When deciding on new models or examining new technology,

been prepared to accept a temporary reversal when quality levels

highly qualified engineers first make all prototypes by hand. The

are at stake. We continue to develop new designs to meet new

94

INTERVIEW

needs, but we guarantee one thing will remain constant – the

lopment of frames in order to ensure a flawless final product with

MASUNAGA quality.

MASUNAGA quality.

Please explain the concept behind this claim.

Many brands from Europe and the United States manufacture

These words are still the basis for our employee’s code of conduct after more than 100 years, and we intend to continue this way in

their glasses in Japan. Do you also produce for other labels?

Yes, we do produce for our business partners.

Okay, we’re not going to ask who it is… But please tell us in

the coming 100 years.

So after over 100 years, are your glasses still made exclusively

which areas your expertise is particularly strong.

in Japan?

Our expertise lies mainly with producing high technology hidden

Yes, we manage all of the design, materials research, metal proces-

in a simple design. This allows us to achieve delicate and beautiful

sing and coloring in our own factory.

lines and styles in our frames. MASUNAGA OPTICAL is able to

What are the benefits?

achieve a brilliant combination of minimalist aesthetic and maximum function.

This total focus assures stability, quality and performance.

It’s especially impressive to achieve high-tech by hand. What is

Do you feel that your Japanese origins are also an advantage

the share of manual production steps in the overall production

when selling your products in other countries?

process?

Yes indeed, mainly our craftsman’s eye for precision and perfection. The Japanese origin gives the customer a quality assurance.

MASUNAGA relies entirely on hands-on creation processes.

This concept works optimally in the entire world.

MASUNAGA’s frames are 100% handmade and every single frame

Japanese craftsmanship is constantly praised, not only in the

is the result of highly skilled craftsmen perfecting every manufac-

eyewear business. What is so special about it?

turing process.

How many working

The work ethic and determination to strive for precision and

steps are involved in

perfection.

each individual pair of

What significance do these values hold for MASUNAGA? MASUNAGA crafts-

glasses?

men draw on fluid

There are over 400 ma-

visuals from the

nufacturing processes

realms of sculpture

involved in making an

and architecture to

optical frame. Gene-

produce stunningly

rally, productivity is

beautiful frames.

low when one company

MASUNAGA does

is in charge of all the

not rush the deve-

processes. However,

MASUNAGA not only creates eyewear from the most premium acetate plates, engravings on the titanium temples are also state of the art.

95

INTERVIEW

MASUNAGA » Vel a « Precisely engineered acetate inserts and titanium sheets at 3 mm thickness are perfectly combined. The arabesque patterns on the bridge and temples add vintage elements to the frame.

» C a mpa nule « The temples are fashioned from MASUNAGA’s highly skilled welding techno-

logy using pure titanium and solid 18 karat gold. Our company created the world’s first direct joining technology between shapememory metals and other metals. Based on this know-how, the joining technology was established. Delicate engravings on the bridge, the bar and the temples are reminiscent of 1920s jewelry details.

The »Campanule« is well engineered and matches the plastic rim and metal front perfectly.

» Da h li a « It achieves a bold profile by using acetate sheets at 10 mm thickness, but still looks thin viewed from the front. While maintaining a rich aesthetic in a true acetate frame, the »Dahlia« is engineered to be lighter to provide the best comfort.

96

INTERVIEW

MASUNAGA »G M S -106« Details like the celluloid overlay from that time are redesigned with a modern interpretation.

Delicate mlgrain detailing on the bridge and temples. Unique titanium and acetate combination designs are featured on the bridge and temples.

»L ibe r t y« The beautifully sculpted thin temples are made of gum-titanium, highly elastic titanium alloy. Delicate milgrain detailing on the temples is created by highly skilled pressing technology.

»000« Staying true to the spirit of our historical frames, the »000« features silver rivets, durable seven-barrel hinges and custom nose pads.

The lustrous finish of this model is achieved by many steps of barrel polishing and clay polishing applied in-between steps by MASUNAGA craftsmen.

97

INTERVIEW

MASUNAGA OPTICAL is the only company in Japan that places

one single factory in charge of all processes from design, raw materials research, metal processing and coloring to finishing in an integrated way.

Please tell us more about this integration.

Our integrated production system serves to improve the details and quality. For example, when MASUNAGA OPTICAL develops a new model, the molds are always built in-house. If there is a problem in the wear comfort that can be felt right after completing one pair of glasses, it will be corrected in the previous stage immediately.

That’s an impressive level of control. What kind of materials do you prefer to work with?

We are proficient in all types of materials including solid gold, titanium, acetate and many more.

But do you personally have a favorite material?

My favorite material is titanium. It’s the lightest metal you can find on earth.

For this interview, you have hand-picked six frames for us. What was the reasoning behind your choices?

We chose three models from our 2019 Spring/Summer New Collection, the »Liberty«, »Vela« and »Dahlia«. The other three models are our iconic models since we have won the Silmo d’Or with the »GMS-106« and »Campanule«. What’s more, the »000« is the successor of our »Custom-72« that was placed in the Osaka Expo time capsule. It is single-handedly the representative model of our acetate frame collection continuing from »000« to »075«.

Mr. Masunaga, thank you for these valuable insights. www.masunaga1905.com

Witness the delicate blend between various materials.

98

COLLECTION CHECK

A Voyeur’s Perspective JEFFERIES – KALEOS’ HOMAGE TO ALFRED HITCHCOCK

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Everybody loves the experience: Fleeing inside a movie theater on a rainy day and cuddling up in a plush seat next to a loved one, chomping on popcorn while watching an exciting thriller. And speaking of thrillers, nobody sends tingles up your spine like the grandmaster of shock cinema, Mr. Alfred Hitchcock, originator of the psycho killer genre. The luminary director single-handedly created the blueprint for an entire school of filmmaking with groundbreaking filming and editing techniques that are still often imitated to this day when it comes to making thrilling movies. Whether it’s original camera perspec-

tives to emulate the first-person view of one of his characters, playing with film exposure or editing an entire movie without visible cuts – Hitchcock was at the forefront of a new movement in cinema.

One of the director’s highly rated masterpieces is the movie Rear Window. For a new limited edition, eyewear brand KALEOS EYEHUNTERS pays homage to Mr. Hitchcock by

naming it after the movie’s main protago-

ges in modern-day eyewear assem-

nist: Jefferies. Inspired by the master of psy-

bly along the way. The continuous

cho thriller movies, the Spanish label crea-

frame is crafted from 2mm thick

ted a new frame shape in unique, bold style.

titanium via laser cuts while remo-

The result is a frame that goes beyond classic

ving all nose padding, so the frame

shapes and solves several technical challen-

rests directly on the nose. The round lenses are reminiscent of a camera lens, while the pastel colorways are a tribute to the unsaturated hues of early hues of color films. This thrilling titanium sunglass model is available in a limited edition of 200 pieces and in five colorways. Fans of classic cinema – and others – will love the Jefferies as a dramatic and cinematographic frame that invites wearers with its lightness and bold shape to break with stylistic traditions and revolutionize pre-established conventions._ www.kaleoseyehunters.com

100

A delicate titanium frame at a mere 2 mm thickness in an opulent design lends a special appeal to the »Jefferies«.

COLLECTION CHECK

KALEOS

»Je f f e r ie s«

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M E T R O P O L I TA N »8054« -

bl a z e r NATHALIE BAHR top JOSEPH p a nt s MYKKE HOFFMAN r in g PILGRIM

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M E T R O P O L I TA N »8053«

dre ss & top COS ba g FRAU FRIEDA r i n g PILGRIM

Female Supremacy

BY Rac h e l J i am [BERLIN]

s t yli n g DAVOR JELUSIC h ai r & m ake - up SABINA PINSONE mod els MILY REUTER a t PLACE MODELS & ALINA STOCKL a t ICONIC MANAGEMENT

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BLACKFIN

» Da rl i n g ton« -

e a r r i n g s PILGRIM b a n d a n a &OTHER STORIES ju mps u i t MYKKE HOFFMAN

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GÖTTI

»B ol d 08« -

jacke t BELSTAFF ban d an a FIONNA BENETT 105

ANDY WOLF »4747 « -

s ui t STINE GOYA s hoe s NEXT r i n g s PILGRIM

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SILHOUETTE »6 5 2 0 « -

blou s e ANA SUI

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JEAN- FRANÇOIS REY »Di an e« -

bl a z e r & p ants DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER e ar i n g s PILGRIM s hoe s KURT GEIGER

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S A LT.

» Je n n in g s« -

h a t FIONNA BENETT blou s e OBJECT

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EYEVAN 7285 »417« -

d re ss BA&SH s ho e s NEXT

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MODO

»4090« -

dre ss OBJECT

111

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »Fa wce tt« -

s hi r t MYKKE HOFFMAN p ants JOSEPH s hoe s STINE GOYA

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IC! BERLIN »N e on«

photos STEFAN DONGUS a ss i s t ants CARO ROSS & JANA LUDWIG cre a ti v e d i re c tion PABLO LA ROSA t ale nt HANNA & ALEX a t IZAIO h ai r & m ake - up TANJA KERN s t yli n g FRIEDERIKE COENEN CG I A r t work SOOII re touch GLAMTOUCH ani m a tion CHRISTIAN BRAMSIEPE 114

Digital First #March IC! BERLIN REFLECTION CAMPAIGN SHOOT Production: Shoot in our Cologne studio with CGI settings and the production of After Effects motion clips Distribution: Single-topic newsletter March 2019 IC! BERLIN has commissioned us to stage their Reflection Collection in a campaign shoot. The three frames provided for

the shoot are reminiscent of the 1990s, which also marked the birth of the Berlin-based label with a cult following. The challenge was to stage the glasses – in line with the campaign motto ‘Step Back To The Future’ – in a Berlin subway station in the year 2050. Our approach to make it happen: Place real people in a virtual set.

We built the futuristic environments using CGI (Computer Generated Imaging), and photographed the models in our Cologne studio (of course they came from Berlin). The two levels of visuals – virtual and real – were joined in postproduction. In order to include the campaign messaging accordingly, we produced motion clips in which the claims run through the image. Final images were published in March in a single-topic newsletter.

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COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN

»S unnys i d e «

OU R A

N

D

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