MOLYBDENUM DISULPHIDE-COATED PROJECTILES

If molybdenum disulphide-coated ammunition is used, projectile deposits in the form of a fine molybdenum dust remains in the barrel which cannot be dissolved chemically – neither with Robla Solo MIL nor with other barrel cleaners. Molybdenum is a high-strength, hard metal that is not solvated even by reducing acids such as hydrofluoric acid. Therefore, molybdenum deposits must be removed mechanically, which can be best accomplished with a bronze brush as well as patches or pieces of felt.

Projectiles With Bismuth

With lead shot increasingly being turned away from, shot ammunition consisting of an alloyed mix of bismuth and tin is now being more commonly used. The soiling that emerges in the barrel in the process cannot be removed with a traditional cleaning as in the case of lead shot: first solvate with an effective solvent such as Robla Solo MIL, then remove the loosened projectile deposits manually with a brush.

Sintered And Soft Iron Ammunition

In the topic of sintered and soft iron ammunition, a distinction must be made between shotguns and rifles. Shotguns are used above all for sports shooting and require steel shot. Here, it should of course be ensured that the integrated parts – the barrel combination and the choke – are also designed for this use. If this is the case, the focus in cleaning the shotgun is on combustion residues in the barrel as well as old grease on the mobile parts. Here, it is recommended to apply a thin film of oil in the barrel after shooting so that corrosion formation due to residues of shot and powder is prevented.

Anyone who uses soft-iron-core projectiles with a rifle should consider that higher pressures arise upon projectile deformation and that these induce greater wear as would be the case with lead or copper alloys. Here, the selection of the correct cleaning agent depends on the material that lies over the soft-iron core as a coating – mostly tombac, tin or nickel. It should also be taken into account that such projectiles do not offer particularly good accuracy.

Before sintered or soft iron ammunition is shot, the user should make absolutely sure to check whether the barrel is also designed for it. Many older barrels in particular are not suitable for the use of sintered and soft iron ammunition.

Due to iron abrasion – especially in the case of non-chrome-plated barrels – there is the risk of so-called contact corrosion arising. Therefore, sintered and soft iron ammunition is considered corrosion-triggering. Consequently, when sintered and soft iron ammunition is used, immediate and intensive cleaning as well as subsequent maintenance are required, for example with Gunex or Ballistol Universal Oil. Additionally, checking the barrel again after approximately 3–5 days is recommended.

Projectiles With Tin Coating

As tin has a very low melting point, ammunition with a tin coating leaves extremely strong projectile deposits in the barrel that require correspondingly frequent and thorough cleaning. So far, it has not been possible to release these deposits from tin-coated projectiles by chemical means. Since tin is a relatively brittle material and therefore easily “crumbles”, it can also be easily removed from the barrel with a suitable, high-quality bronze brush.

A special case among tin-coated projectiles is CineShot© ammunition, whose lead projectile core is coated all-round with mild steel and is also coated with a covering tin layer. Projectiles for the military and for RUAG automatic guns are identical. Even though mild steel is certainly not one of the most ideal projectile materials, there are still manufacturers who offer this type of ammunition. If CineShot© ammunition is used, it should be taken into account that residues of the tin coat must be removed with the brush. In the case of similar ammunition from other manufacturers, the mild steel is partially coated with a tombac coating; residues of this ammunition can accordingly be dissolved using Robla Solo MIL.

Black Powder Ammunition

Surplus ammunition

Ammunition from military inventories is referred to as surplus ammunition. In most cases, it refers to surplus ammunition that has been decommissioned due to calibres that are no longer required or their storage periods have been surpassed.

Here, it should be noted that the projectiles have been changed and that no military armour-piercing composite rigid ammunition is shot – this comes under the KWKG (War Guns Control Act) and is therefore prohibited in Germany under gun laws. The coloured projectile tips are often a sign of military armour-piercing composite rigid ammunition.

If black powder ammunition is shot, e.g. with muzzle-loading guns, blank-cartridge guns or flare guns, this requires a special form of cleaning. Unlike the low-smoke propelling charges of modern ammunition, very stubborn residues settle in the barrel when black powder charges are used, as blackpowder combustion produces inorganic salts, soot and other combustion products. These residues promote corrosion in the barrel far more than is the case with modern propelling charges and due to their composition, they cannot be removed effectively with the “usual” organic gun oils.

Therefore, warm soapsuds are often used; however, these always present the risk of corrosion. A much better alternative is offered by a warm Ballistol Universal Oil emulsion – a mix of water and Ballistol Universal Oil in the ratio of 2 to 1. Not only can such an emulsion be used to clean the barrel, but is also offers effective rust protection. Black powder marksmen from the USA, in particular, swear by the mixture, which neutralizes the existing acidic combustion residues of the black powder and additionally provides the necessary rust protection. However, it should be taken into account that this emulsion cannot be stored on a long-term basis; rather, it must be disposed of after the cleaning, as the existing dirt can lead to the formation of bacteria.

The much more effective, gentle and, above all, simple way is Ballistol Black Powder Solvent, which was developed specially for this purpose. It is available as a liquid container and as a spray that forms an active foam. Ballistol Black Powder Solvent liquid is especially suitable for use with a cleaning rod and felt cleaners.

Prudence before mercury firing

Today, many an ammunition cabinet still contains projectiles with a mercury firing charge and ammunition from Eastern Europe and the Far East in which a mercury fulminate is used in the firing charge – often 9 para or surplus ammunition. Such mercury firing charges leave behind an aggressive, acidic, metallic and chemical second helping (mercury, chlorate) that launches a massive attack on the barrel. This type of ammunition is mostly referred to as corrosive ammunition as well and is still available today in places. If such ammunition is used, the gun should be run through with Ballistol Universal Oil at the firing range in order to remove the rough soiling immediately. Further, a comprehensive cleaning should be performed as quickly as possible thereafter.

Although a clean with hot water and soapsuds, often recommended for this, is not generally wrong, there is the danger – as with the cleaning mentioned under “Black powder ammunition” – that the water will get into gaps in the barrel (e.g. barrel/guide rail) and thus trigger corrosion. Should water be used nevertheless, it is urgently recommended to dry the barrel in a warm temperature. A more reliable solution for removing the mercury fulminates and the metal deposits is Robla Solo MIL. Subsequent care with Ballistol Universal Oil is particularly sensible in this case, as it is slightly alkaline compared to other gun oils. After 3 days at the latest, another cleaning should be performed in order to remove all second-helping residues of the mercury firing so as to prevent rust perforation. A third check and, if necessary, a further cleaning is recommended after approximately 8–12 days. Subsequently, the gun is to be kept well-oiled and before the next use the barrel should be run through dry as always.

5 Cleaning The Right Order

The two “big basic rules” of gun cleaning are both enlightening and easy to remember: First: “Always clean from inside to outside.”

Second: “The general cleaning comes first, then the intensive detailed cleaning.” However, with regard to what goes beyond these two easy-to-remember rules, there are many opinions and questions.

Therefore, in this chapter we would like to describe to you in detail all the individual steps of gun cleaning and maintenance. We want to give you a secure feeling that you are cleaning and looking after your gun in the best way possible. You will thus maintain its value and, above all, its functionality and accuracy.