MODA E MOTORI MAGAZINE n.2
Anno II - N.2 - Semestrale - Luglio 2020 - € 5,00 Italia - 5,00 ₤ UK
Into the blue
9
772612
597001
ISSN 2612-5978
Illusion
Blue
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TRAVEL IN THE BLUE FASHION / Silvia Scorcella
he brevity of the name is only a surprising illusion: blue, four rapid letters that enclose countless shades tied to countless stories of style, chests of innumerable suggestions. Exploring the presence of blue in fashion is equivalent to a journey full of encounters and revelations that have wonder: in the sense of the wonder that exclaims wow! And that put us on the alert for risky style slips: we remember all the famous lessons on blue cerulean imparted by the inflexible Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada, right? Because in fashion nothing happens by chance, least of all the blue with its endless variations, even the one dedicated to our 2020 has a well-defined name: that is, Pantone “Classic Blue”, which is the chosen shade of the year.It has become naturally the color of style privileged by fashion designers for the collections for him and her, giving us an immersion in this, the shade of timeless elegance, source of serenity for the soul and reflection regenerating the mind. Before Pantone had already thought of Mother Nature to paint the sky of dusk Classic Blue: more precisely he painted us the so-called “blue hour” which happens about half an hour after dawn and before sunset, during which, with the complicity of the sun that spreads its golden light, the saturation of mute tones is dressed in this velvety shade of blue. Always mother nature is the artist who, with the blue, charmingly depicts the large expanses of water and the mysterious depths of the sea. Coupled with the sky of which they are the mirror, I am the source of that famous wow! of amazed contemplation, which in turn has always been a raw material of inspiration for designers who from the blue beauty of the sky and sea have been so seduced to make it their chromatic signature. Well, in fashion, blue is not just a question of how to wear it - paired or replacing black? in formal, casual or elegant contexts? - but also by those who were renamed: the first was Madame Jeanne Lanvin, who in the 1920s coined Lanvin Blue, a pale shade of cobalt blue in which the splendour of the famous frescoed skies of Beato Angelico was enclosed, and the brightness of the Mediterranean skies with which he fell in love in his Italian
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Renato Balestra Haute Couture PE 2013
Wrangler Texas Slim SS20
travels, and then colored every piece of the world that surrounded it, from the bedroom to the Théâtre Daunou. Speaking of couture, even the great Christian Dior created his own personal tint: the Blu Dior, a sophisticated hieratic shade of blue that crosses into black because of the right pinch of grey; he debuted with this in 1949 with the complete “Chevrier” inspired by the tunics of the shepherds, through which so ennobled a color is still considered very un-bourgeois, accompanied by notes that are true lessons in style for all by his “petit dictionnaire de la mode” (1954): of all the colors, only navy blue can compete with black and has the same advantages. When choosing a shade of blue, be careful, observe it both in daylight and in electric light, because it changes its appearance a lot. We stay in France, but we jump into the fabulous years between the ‘70s and the ‘80s, when Yves Saint Laurent shines a blue on the catwalk that seems crossed by an electric shock: it is the appearance of the famous bluette, borrowed from the equally famous blue Klein, which dyes his jackets from the catwalk, invading the decade, making it chromatically unforgettable. It starts with him, Yves Saint Laurent, who made his feminine signature seductive, the eternal lesson that blue and black can be a perfectly refined pairing. A lesson that will continue with King Giorgio Armani, as we will see, but first enjoy meeting another great master of fashion whohas tied blue to his passion and his name: Renato Balestra, who from an early age prefers blue, as a young artist chooses it for his paintings, until he gets that special shade of his, acclaimed by all: Blu Balestra, that becomes the unmistakable signature of the maison as much as the extraordinary elegance of its clothes that dress the beauty of women, including among the most important in the world. So as Renato tells himself: this is a color I have always loved and that in my life represents joy and emotion! For me the sky is always more blue and so I hope and hope that this is so for young designers. From the sky to the sea, here is another prestigious Italian designer to set the blue in an extraordinary work of art and fashion: Roberto Capucci, who in 1998 forges the dress “Oceano”, 1200 pieces of taffeta cut and applied by hand in 5 months of work to recreate 37 shades of blue, and blue as if they were the changing shades of the sea, or rather the oceans, the theme of the Universal Expo of Lisbon 2000 for which the work was intended. Blue: evocative color of fashion artists, but also distinctive of great figures of power, because it is the color that symbolizes credibility, reliability and professionalism; it is not by chance the color of many uniforms, including those of the weapon. Wallis Blue is the dress with which Wallis Simpson has a third marriage with Edward VIII of England: a particular point of powder blue chosen by her personally. And it is always the blue that forges the image of Margaret Thatcher: night blue was the wedding dress, of a thousand other shades, from the navy to the Prussian blue to the cerulean were the clothes that dressed in her speeches and diplomatic meetings more importantly, accompanied by the inevitable sapphire pins. What about the man? Speaking of power, the memory goes immediately to the blue sweater of Sergio Marchionne: the dark blue crew-neck sweater worn without a tie and on all kinds of occasions, a sign of effective defense against modal distractions, normcore sample for which the most ordinary normality is elevated to aesthetic and stylish ideal. Power or comfort? In his case both, but as for comfort nothing beats the blue casual
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In blue deep Styling Stefano Guerrini Photography Gilad Kavalero _15
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S Story Alice Bignardi Photographer Marcel Stenner Location Hangar-7
Some say he spent more hours in the air than on the ground. Until he grows a pair of wings, he will continue to do so on stunt & race airplanes. His favorite is the Zivko Edge 540, a competition model with a wingspan that does not reach eight meters and travels more than 400 kilometers per hour. If it was a motorcycle, it would be a Ducati; if it was a car, it would be a Lamborghini; and if it was a person, well, it would be Dario Costa. We met and interviewed him at normal altitude.
Pants & sweatshirt AlphaTauri Watch Hamilton Shoes 8JS
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Since 2013, Costa has been linked to the world of Red Bull. From instructor to Red Bull athlete and then competitor in the Red Bull Air Race Challenger Cup, Dario performs stunts, acrobatics and competes in the Air Race, a competition of precision and speed.
Born in 1980, Dario Costa is a dedicated and disciplined athlete who at sixteen had already earned the right to his first solo flight. Costa was for many years the youngest acrobatic flight instructors in Italy.
Photographer Özkan Taşkıran
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Swimwear Mimì à La Mer Headscarf Essere Style
MUA Valeria Stefanelli Model Andrea Messina @independent_mgmt
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Always
Blue
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Polo Alpha Studio Jeans Two Woman Two Men Shoes Adidas
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T-shirt Best Company Jeans Find Boots Marni
Jacket Tagliatore Polo Alpha studio Jeans Boggi Shoes Adidas
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“It is not I who wins the sea,
it is the sea that lets me win.”
Story Gaetano Piazzolla
Photographer Alberto Muro Pelliconi
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For Umberto Pelizzari, the blue, the deep blue - like night, insidious and magical at the same time - is a home, all his, to return to. Him, the no-limit record man. He, the man of the depths also of the soul. He, who counts his moments of life - the real one - in restrained breaths. He, Umberto - even before the Pelizzari athlete and cover man - owes everything to the sea, especially the privilege, he calls it so, of having been granted some victory “It is not I who wins the sea, it is the sea that lets me win”. To understand Umberto Pelizzari. To try to get in touch with his extraordinary talent. To feel the thrill of abandonment to the abyss and the choice, because this is after minutes that seem endless, to return to the surface. To do at least in part all this, you have to leave your mind open and rely - and for once we too unreservedly - on the hands of those who have always, more than the physical mind, trained their absolute respect for an element that can do everything, the blue sea in fact. The challenge, with oneself, comes much later; it is the relentless constancy of feeling guests of something greater than the real journey.
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Did you choose apnea or did apnea choose you?
Is it easier to get into the water or a shirt?
Definitely the second, everything was born by chance. I trained in the pool and, as often happens, I started challenging the kids; but something inside me snapped. During the military service in the firefighters I asked to be assigned to the Island of Elba and that’s where I started to explore the depths and discover my true nature. That’s when I found out what I was born to do. (Umberto Pelizzari boasts a lung capacity of 7.9 liters; during a test in 1995 after eight minutes of oxygen ventilation he held his breath for the ‘incredible time of 19 ‘56 leaving the scientific community incredulous, ed.)
A t-shirt is better, maybe blue (like the one he wears during the interview, ed.). I wear shirts, but not very often, and then we tell the sea the shirts are uncomfortable and - if I may be quite honest - I hate those that go with the same shirt in common.
I know it may seem impossible to you but the sea, the abysses, may not be such a comfortable place... For me I have to say the sea is not only comfortable but it is also relaxing. When I am in blue I try to see and peer as far as possible; I become one with this element and, I always say, my first breath in resurfacing from the bottom of the sea is like the first breath made when I came out of my mother’s womb. What’s the bluest sea you’ve ever been in? In Japan south of Okinawa, but I would never give up the blue of the Mediterranean: my safe haven where I prefer to train, where I choose to return.
Favorite color in fashion? The blue. Granted?! The truth is that it’s really the color that I feel more comfortable with and that I like more, especially when I think about men’s clothing. On formal occasions a blue suit solves any doubt about how I should dress even if I go back to say that when I can I choose practicality, and my collection of T-shirts I would never give up. The sea is your real habitat, more Triton than man, but out of the water how is Umberto? If I’m not at sea, I’m talking about the sea. Daily I carry on my work of scientific dissemination and on the marine environment in addition to the diffusion, teaching and research of underwater apnea worldwide. And then I dedicate myself to the family, which is also training oxygen in the lungs. Photographer Matthias Ghem
Where do you live and what, if it exists, is the place you would ideally live? Currently I live in Parma, the city of my wife which is a quiet village in the province where you are fine. If we were to move to the sea one day I would choose Cagliari because until you know it you do not know how beautiful it is. And it is, very.
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Photographer Alberto Muro Pelliconi
One who at sea only uses his lungs - legs, muscles, heart, head - to move, on dry land what does he use? I move on two non-motorised wheels, the bicycle. The car for me is a vehicle that allows me to move from A to B if I can’t do it with my legs. That’s why I don’t have a lot of passion, and I don’t really get into details.
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Shoes Moreschi
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Jacket, pants Circolo 1901 Shoes Adidas
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A L FA BLUE TEAM
Story & Photographer Gaetano Piazzolla
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Alfa Blue Team, unbridled passion for Alfa Romeo and a collection to screams handed down to the second generation. When an Alfa was passing, even Henry Ford took off his hat. In June, the brand turned one hundred and ten years old and we wanted to celebrate it with an interview with Stefano and Alessandro Salvetti - sons of Gippo, one of the founding members - two of the 30 friends who consider this club (limited number) as a second home. Blue Team is the name of the Italian national team of Bridge where Gippo’s father played, who was inspired to baptize the club. Very strong players, the Italians of the Blue Team won from the mid-fifties to the mid-seventies 13 world titles, 3 Olympic and 11 Europeans. The first car in the collection? A Giulia SS 1600 cc. ‘67 all-blue purchased by Gippo in 1970, two years before founding the Alfa Blue Team. _96
Let’s start with a fundamental question: which was first born, the passion for cars or that for Alfa Romeo? For us, the passion for the Alfa was born before that for cars. As it was for our father. He was thunderstruck at the age of six by the Juliet. From then on, it was unconditional love. Which Alfa designer do you like? Aesthetically, the most beautiful Alfa cars were designed by the car body designers such as Touring and Zagato in Milan or Bertone and Pininfarina in Turin. That was until after the war. The most important car conceived and designed by Alfa is definitely the Giulia that at the time had a very innovative and revolutionary style in sedans. The Alfa Romeo and the car body designer who designed them played a fundamental role in making cars identify with the city and vice versa.
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