The Slow Future of Fashion

AN EXPLORATION OF IRIS VAN HERPEN’S EXPERIMENTAL AND SUSTAINABLE DESIGNS

By Emily Fleming, Fashion Staff Writer Graphic by Mac Gale and Ella Cunz

Dutch fashion designer Iris Van Herpen has made a name for herself by fusing experimental technology and Haute Couture to create extraordinary, one-of-a-kind designs. While we are all currently battling the effects and ethical problems surrounding fast fashion, Herpen’s designs are a breath of fresh air. She prioritizes “slow fashion,” using technology to create what once seemed impossible in an industry that runs on keeping up with new trends and ideas.1

Her techniques vary from “drawing designs by hand on the computer” to using 3D printing, laser cutting and more.2 One could argue there isn’t a material Herpen has met that she hasn’t liked, as her creations range from being made out of unusual materials such as silicone, concrete, metal lace, iron filings, glass and plastic. She is constantly on the search for more “ecoconscious fabrics,” and continues to re-imagine the future of textiles and the way fashion is produced.3 She is also particularly excited by the potential of color and shape changing textiles — although we may be a long ways away from creating and popularizing these materials, it has the potential to change the way we look at fashion forever and Herpen will likely be a leader in adopting these new, ground-breaking practices.

In 2013, Herpen collaborated with Daphne Guinness — a fellow designer and lover of avantgarde fashion — to create “the water dress.”4 For this dress, Guinness was photographed as

1 Thomas, D. (2019, October 01). Iris van Herpen Designs for Nature. 2 Ibid. 3 Chan, E. (2019, July 02). Is couture the most sustainable fashion week of all? 4 Ibid. water was thrown at her from all different angles. Studying the fluidity and movement of the water, Herpen used those images to create the piece. By manipulating and hand-sculpting plastic, she achieved a design that truly captured the organic essence of water, a material she has long been inspired by.

Herpen draws much of her inspiration from nature. Her infinity dress, one that she says is the most difficult she’s ever made, was a part of her Hypnosis collection. It was created from delicate, laser cut shapes that create an optical illusion when interacting with air. As the model walks, the piece expands and contracts, which makes it appear as if “the whole sculpture is breathing.”5 This piece exemplifies her appreciation for the balance between technology and nature, showing how the two interact to create something beautiful and “alive.”6

Herpen trained in classical ballet until she was 18 years old, attributing her inspiration of movement and femininity to her experience in dance.7 She celebrates female empowerment, creating a captivating balance between feminine energy and hard geometric shapes and materials. Her pieces are a celebration of women, and each collection pushes the boundaries of “today’s definition of a garment.”8 Herpen has collaborated with architects, kinetic sculptors, dance choreographers, and more,

5 Sebastian Jordahn | 8 May 2020 Leave a comment. (2020, May 09). “The Infinity dress is the most difficult I have ever made” says Iris van Herpen. 6 Ibid. 7 About. (n.d.). Retrieved January 30, 2021, Iris Van Hepburn 8 Ibid. claiming there is no difference between architecture and fashion.9 Her work is more than just clothing, it is art.

The costs of her designs reflect the craftsmanship and hard work that goes into each piece—with designs ranging from $20,000 to over $100,000—and she values the creative process more than end result. Rather than sketching two-dimensionally, she begins by draping fabrics on mannequins, observing how it interacts with the human form. This process can take up to two weeks, and she often starts with no set outcome in sight.

Herpen believes “there is so much in fashion that is unexplored,” giving us faith that she will continue exploring ways to achieve the impossible.10 It can only go up for this artist, as she continues challenging herself to use materials no one else has, utilizing artificial intelligence for the new future of fashion. Iris Van Herpen is a true visionary: one who believes in a future of sustainability, the importance of freedom, and the power of imagination.11 ■

9 Thomas, D. (2019, October 01). Iris van Herpen Designs for Nature. 10 Sebastian Jordahn | 6 May 2020 Leave a comment. (2020, May 09). “There is so much in fashion that is unexplored” says Iris van Herpen. 11 Boone, D., & Lehava, N. (2018, June 07). Couturier Iris van Herpen on the Future of Sustainable Fashion.