Moda Madison: October 2018 Issue

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Team EDITOR IN CHIEF Eva-Delilah Wieland DEP UTY EDITOR Cassie Hurwitz ART DIRECTOR Lauren Chung WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE DIRECTOR Fernanda Martinez Rodriguez WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE ADVISOR Jen Farley

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Ellie Braun ARTS CURATOR Channing Smith CREATIVE DIRECTORS Geordon Wollner Reilly Koch FASHION EDITOR Brooke Komas LIFESTYLE EDITOR Molly Rapozo

WUD PRESIDENT Mills Botham

CULTURE EDITOR Haidee Chu

ON THE COVER Kennedie King by Max Goldberg

ARTS EDITOR Naomi Gallagher SOCIAL MEDIA AND MARKETING LIAISON Lindsey Young

STAFF WRITERS Claudia Prevete Elise Andersen Emily Bian Gloria Requena Kasey Busiel Katie Herick Martha Daniels Samaaya Jayamha CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Ariana King Ashleigh Perry Leah Kramer Isabella Byrne Kaitlin Schumacker Madeline Rasmussen Olivia Stack Steven Jotterand MODELS Grace Wynne Hunter Batjer Kelsey Amber Kennedie King LaKish’a Sutton Lori Mae Zolp Madison Marten Mariah Weimer Martha Daniels Reilly Koch Tatyanna MarieAMPA ART Channing Smith Haidee Chu Kaitlin B Molly Burki Olivia Costantino Samaaya Jayamha PHOTOGRAPHY Channing Smith Max Goldberg Meredith Wang Reilly Koch

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Table of Contents

October 2018

ARTS

it is exclusive

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21

The Spirit of Universities Public sediment on higher education trends negative

36

Defining and Debunking the Asian American Identity Myth A Chinese American adoptee’s take on what it means to be Asian

41

Beyond Its Looks Harajuku style stands for more than just its fascinating aesthetics

Exhibit: Brutalist Spirits Delving into the unexplored past of brutalist architecture in a dead socialist state

40

Spirit of Soul Music A look into the power of female

soul musicians and their evolving

quest for political and persona change

LIFESTYLE 06 FOMO, Who?

Beating that fear of missing out

14 Overlooked Rebels

Their spirits would not be

crushed or their efforts diminshed 16

Fall Drinks Cocktails and mocktails that spice up this season

41

The Rave Reality The harsh truth about drug use at music festivals, and how our nation should be responding

44

Growing Up and Growing Out Discovering yourself

45 Getting that Extra Wink

Find the missing piece in your sleep routine

CULTURE 10

The Grateful Red Red warriors & the Wisconsin Idea

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The Inequality of School Spirit Universities pride themeselves on their school spirit, but for many

FASHION 08

Falling for a Pastel Pallette Coloring outside the (fashion) lines

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DIY School Spirit Getting crafty never looked so cool

16

The Spirit of Entrepreneurship A look at a local designer’s triumphs and challenges

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Trends that Haunt Us Leopard print, dad sneakers and fanny pack

34

Versace Acquisition Michael Kors’ growing luxury conglomerate and what it means for the iconic Italian fashion house

44

School Uniforms A threat to the spirit of fashion

FEATURED 22 Parting

All we know 45 Beyond

This Earth and life as we know it OCTOBER 2018 3

LETTER FROM THE DEPUTY

R ECLAIMI N G A SENSE OF S E L F When I departed the UW–Madison campus late in 2017 for a semester abroad, I was at a crossroads in my relationship with the city. After two years of both happy and stressful college times, an autumn of exceptionally tough classes and interpersonal struggles left me feeling like a shell of myself—forgetting the Wisconsin spirit that once drew me to this campus.

Prior to realizing this dichotomy, I thought Badger spirit was solely about having a positive time during the college years.

However, I’ve come to accept the fact that UW–Madison’s spirit is also about learning to deal with failure, loss, heartbreak and trying times. The multitude of emotions college students feel—both good and bad—form our complex identities and prepare us for the real world.

The semester I spent abroad renewed my happiness. The metropolitan environment of London agreed with me and this happiness continued through my summer spent in Chicago.

Although it may seem trite, the multifaceted definition of spirit is an important lesson that I’m happy to take with me into one of my favorite months of the year. This October, reminisce on what spirit means to you. From fleshing out the Wisconsin Idea, school uniforms and FOMO, to cozying up with seasonal drinks and some ghostly fashion inspiration, Moda’s talented staff have provided plenty of ideas to ponder.

All the while, however, I feared the relapse that returning to Madison would bring. As much as I had grown and changed while abroad, I knew that being back at UW could awaken feelings and ghosts I’d long thought dead.

When I drove back into Madison after summer ended, bursting into tears upon seeing the view of the Capitol looming over Lake Monona, the mix of both relief and dread filled my heart. Feeling this, I knew I would have to come to terms with the paradox—understanding that my final year at UW–Madison will be filled with the push and pull of both loving and hating this glorious city. That, and figuring out a way to reignite my Badger spirit.

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As I settle into my position as Moda’s Deputy Editor, I relish the fact that I am a stronger person than I was one year ago.

My spirit for UW remains, regardless of the ups and downs I’ve had while here.

I’m ready to conquer whatever this year brings me—and I hope you are, too.

Cheers,

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LIFESTYLE

FO M O, W H O? BEATING THAT FEAR OF MISSING OUT

BY OLIVIA STACK, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY KAITLIN BANAFSHEHA

Wouldn’t it be amazing if everything always went our way and the stresses and worries of reality didn’t faze us—or better yet, didn’t exist? Who wouldn’t want a life filled with butterflies and rainbows? We all know that this idyllic life is probably unattainable, but we can get pretty close to it by learning ways to deal with these issues.

Let’s talk about one of the biggest worries in a college student’s life— FOMO. Fear of missing out can be applied to almost anything—dinner with friends, a party, a sporting event or even a school lecture.

The daunting question seems to be: how can we, as college students wanting the perfect balance between succeeding in school and having fun, cure our FOMO? How can we beat the awful feeling we get when we are stuck somewhere unappealing while everyone else is exactly where they want to be?

It may seem impossible, but FOMO can be beaten. College students can defeat the monster that constantly lurks in the backs of our minds and pits of our stomachs.

The first way to slay the FOMO dragon is to find purpose in whatever you are choosing or forced to do. Let’s say you have a test on a Friday morning and, subsequently, you choose to skip the Thursday night shenanigans to hide away in the library and study.

Find purpose in the subject you are studying—what is your motive or end goal? In this case, it’s probably to get an A and to keep up your stellar GPA.

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Finding this purpose will cause other desires to fade away and no longer matter, or at least matter less. It will allow you to come to terms with your situation and understand that there is a greater meaning behind your purpose than whatever the original FOMO entailed.

to stay in and study. Why fear about missing that one Thursday night when there are 52 other Thursday nights in that year alone—52 Thursday nights where the antics will be just as fun and just as crazy. Take a step back—realize that most problems that seem like the end of the world will fade with time.

Next, take a step back. Pull yourself out of your body for a moment and find a different perspective—one that helps you to realize how minuscule

However, there are some situations that, when missed, truly do matter to the people involved. For example, don’t miss your best friend’s wedding!

It is a meaningful and life-altering event that may only occur once in their lifetime. In this case, dealing with the pitfalls of missing other obligations is worth the pain.

“ YOU WILL GET OVER IT AND REALIZE HOW, COMPARED WITH OTHER ISSUES IN LIFE, IT DOES NOT MATTER AS MUCH AS YOU MIGHT HAVE ONCE THOUGHT. ” this problem probably is. In most situations, whatever you are missing will happen again in the future, and if it doesn’t, the sadness and self-pity you feel will merely be temporary.

You will get over it and realize how, compared with other issues in life, it does not matter as much as you might have once thought.

Let’s revisit the Thursday night shenanigans example where you chose

The last and most accessible tip to curing FOMO is to turn off your social media. The easiest way to end the gut-wrenching feeling of missing out is to delete Snapchat, Instagram, Twitter and any other app people use to publicize their socializations.

The worst way to get FOMO—or make it worse—is to look at pictures or videos of the exact thing you are missing and trying to forget. So, delete social media and you have already conquered the hardest part of your quest. It only takes a click of a button or a tap of the screen.

We all know that catching a case of the FOMOs is no fun and can damper anyone’s mood, but it can’t kill us. It is a treatable case that will only get easier to overcome with perspective.

Whenever you feel the FOMO coming on, just follow these guidelines and you will feel better in no time.

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FASHION

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FALLING FOR A PASTEL PALETTE

BY GLORIA REQUENA, FASHION GLORIA REQUENA & HUNTER BATJER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MEREDITH WANG

Autumn has arrived, but the transition to colder months shouldn’t mean retiring lighter colored wardrobe staples. In fact, the warm tones of the season present an ideal opportunity to embrace transseasonal dressing through spirited pastel hues.

This time of the year evokes a neutral color palette including shades of brown, beige, cream and copper. It makes sense, then, that fall collections typically gravitate towards basics like brown leather jackets, dark wash denim and classic white shirts. While I am a proud supporter of these autumn essentials, at times fashion lovers crave a lighter, fresher look, regardless of the traditional rules of the season.

New to pastels? Try starting with outerwear. Belted and oversized trench coats are an ultimate trend for the upcoming fall and winter.

When styling pastel outerwear, let the focal piece speak for itself by keeping the rest of the outfit simple. Pair a pastel pink coat with a cream skirt and a white shirt for a sweet ensemble, or go for a workwear vibe by adding dark dress pants and stiletto heels. Neutral pieces will anchor the look while pastel colors add a lighthearted spirit.

Another way to wear pale hues during autumn is rocking a monochrome look from head to toe. This may seem risky, but pulling it off is easier than it sounds. The key is selecting a single color as a base and adding variations of different shades. Try pairing a bold orange blazer with a matching peach colored shirt and pants. If you’re daring enough, complete the look with a pair of tangerine sneakers!

Pastel colors embody cheerfulness, innocence and feminine style.

They offer a wide range of possibilities to create striking outfits, no matter the time of year. Dare to stand out with a color palette that goes against the grain. This season, fall for pastels!

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CULTURE

TH E G RATEF U L RED Badger students come together to forge their individual paths

BY KARISSA SCHUMACKER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER | PHOTOGRAPHED BY MEREDITH WANG Standing here, smack dab in between the glorious Capitol building and the ever-towering Bascom Hill, getting lost amidst the scurrying militia of red and white isn’t just easy—it’s a fact of campus living. In a preestablished army of over 43,800 warriors in training, carving a path yet to be trekked is daunting. For each student, their battle at UW–Madison is extremely personal, tailored to push them up against their passions.

and I would always win. I just knew what I was doing. Coming to UW-Madison, my goal is to keep chugging along in my mechanical engineering classes— but I really want to take part in constructing the hyper-speed Badgerloop.

A Wisco Warrior’s code of conduct is the Wisconsin Idea—the idea that education is to influence a student’s life beyond the classroom, to empower and ensure civic engagement, to give back to the community that gave them their knowledge. When asked how they embody the Wisconsin Idea, students respond with a battle cry.

These are Wisconsinites, and these are their stories.

Eventually I want to work for Elon Musk and Space X. Meanwhile, a lot of things make me feel like a Badger: football, of course, is huge. And walking up Bascom every single day—you finally get to participate in all of the traditions you’ve been hearing about since [you were] a little kid, and it’s amazing.

Thanks to Madison, I will have the degree to make some ground breaking discoveries.

There’s a lot of goals when it comes to space exploration, and if I can contribute to any of them that would be a win for me.”

Giovanni Onesto 18, Mechanical Engineering “I’ve loved math and science forever— they make sense to me, I’m a big physics nerd. I’ve known what I wanted to do since eighth grade. We used to have these competitions in physics: We would fly little rockets and paper airplanes, we’d drop all sorts of things,

Molly Schmidt 19, Pre-Pharmacy “There’s always something new to discover in the pharmaceutical field.

I’ve always really liked science as well as helping other people. I attended a camp through the pharmacy school here last summer—seeing everyone established in this field allowed me to

While the sheer number of students at this university nearly breaks the books, a plethora of clubs offer options to rookies looking to find their specialty. Besides the copious amounts of clubs on campus, there are 206 majors to pursue. Through these outlets, Badgers fight fearlessly to forge themselves with all of the knowledge and skill sets this base has to offer.

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realize that this is who I wanted to be. As a Badger, I like to talk to new people in my classes, explore State street and make friends with people everywhere I go. Studying at a university like this I know I have to challenge myself every single day. With a lot of different people from different backgrounds

everywhere, I realize now how important it is for me to speak my mind.

My classes so far have taught me to be a team player, to be friendly with everyone. I will definitely take that with me.”

Tommy Mackela 21, Business and Finance “When I was little, I would try and make it big by selling people my jokes. From then on, I have always tried to be president of my clubs and captain of my teams.

Now at UW–Madison, I am president of the Fantasy Sports and Business Club. I want to go into consulting; half of those jobs are communicating with people. And since it’s business, there’s a pretty high ceiling of where I can go from there. Business is hard to break down, but the understanding I have gained from here will allow me to be successful in helping people sort out their life and giving them financial security. For me, the epitome of being a Badger is participating in game day; but my favorite part of being a Badger is wearing Wisconsin with pride. Big picture, we are all goal-oriented people trying to challenge ourselves— you flaunt it… it’s a title.

Although each Badger finds their own niche on campus, we all join forces to achieve a common goal. We come together with Giovanni to extend the boundaries of discovery. We join Molly in speaking our minds in the most crucial of times. We chime in with Tommy to ensure the security of our community. We march in and out of class with our futures on our minds, with relentless determination in our eyes. Finally, we put on our red, assemble our troops, put our hands in the air and cheer for our Badgers.

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FASHION

D I Y SCHO O L S P IR IT

BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR GRACE WYNNE PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHANNING SMITH There are tons of reasons to love fall in Madison—the farmer’s market on the square, the colorful foliage, the Terrace on a perfect, brisk day.

However, the crowning jewel of the autumnal months is America’s favorite pastime: football.

On these special Saturdays, a sea of red floods State Street and music echoes from nearby Langdon. The dress code is strict, but that doesn’t mean you have to resort to a plain ol’ Wisconsin sweatshirt.

A few years ago, I got crafty and started making gameday apparel for my friends. This hobby resulted in a little business I call Made by CAS. Now, I am revealing my DIY secrets, so you can make your very own unique gameday looks.

PATCHED UP Patches are an easy way to transform a basic article of clothing. Spruce up a tube top with an embroidered Bucky and you’re ready to go. The University bookstore sells a variety of UW licensed patches that will have you jumping around in no time. Once you have your patch oriented on its new home—denim, sweats, tanks, the possibilities are endless—place a washcloth or towel over it. Iron on high for about 30 seconds, then let the item sit until the patch cools. Turn inside out and iron again.

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DIY DENIM As we move towards the end of football season, that inevitable Wisconsin chill sneaks up and intrudes on tailgates.

On cool fall days like these, I turn to my trusty jean jacket. If you’re looking for a denim look to sport on game days, consider this DIY project. Grab a jean jacket (thrift stores are a great go-to if you’re looking for materials for this kind of craft). Using acrylic paint or fabric paint, customize the back panel.

I like to add a layer of white paint first so the colors really pop. Extra points if you can find dyed red denim!

RACE TO THE FINISH Cyclists are having a moment—not the sport, but the clothes. Checkered print, racing stripes and bright contrasting panels are popular in both high fashion and streetwear. Brands from Louis Vuitton to Moschino have sent the dark, retro styles down the runway—next to be seen worn by you at Camp Randall. Try out a black and white checkered piece juxtaposed with Bucky’s classic red. Sport a pair of red track pants, or if you’re really feeling it, a whole suit.

If you would rather buy than DIY, shop Made by CAS on instagram @madeby.cas http://www.madebycas.com/

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LIFESTYLE

FORGOTTEN FEM The power of female musicians and their evolving quest for change

BY KATIE HERRICK, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT | ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR Think back to high school history classes. Who did you learn about? Who changed the world? Switch to science class. Who made discoveries and changed the way we see the world? The answer is always a group of white men.

As many of us have come to realize, sexism and racism have kept critical people out of history books, allowing white men to take credit for things they didn’t do. In

ELIZABETH COCHRANE SEAMEN

Under the pen name Nellie Bly, Seamen was an American journalist in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Bly went undercover to report and expose a mental institution, changing the way the world saw and understood investigative journalism.

Seamen also made a trip around the world in 72 days, setting a world record inspired by the book Around the World in Eighty Days. Bly made the trip entirely on her own, using railroads and steamboats, something that was unheard of for women of her time.1

the past few years there has been a focus on reclaiming history for those who truly created it, but we still have a ways to go.

The following are six women from all ethnicities, walks of life, and arenas of creation and study who have made a large impact and difference in culture and society, yet receive little to no credit.

LUCY HICKS ANDERSON

Trans women are even more historically ignored than women in science. Trans activist Lucy Hicks Anderson, 1886-1954, lived her life as a woman despite being born male. “Transgender” was not a term at the time, however that did not stop Anderson from living life as her true self—a woman.

Anderson was criminally punished for both her marriages, the Federal Court claiming she committed a perjury marrying a man because of her male anatomy. Anderson’s response, “I defy any doctor in the world to prove that I am not a woman. I have lived, dressed, acted just what I am, a woman,” would set the tone for the fight for marriage equality in the future.1 Kevin Leonard, “Anderson, Lucy Hicks [Tobias Lawson] (18861954)” Blackpast.org. http://www.blackpast.org/aaw/anderson-lucy-hicks-1886-1954 1

“Nellie Bly,” Wikipedia, last modified September 26, 2018, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nellie_Bly 1

HARRIET POWERS

Living from 1837 to 1910, Powers was a freed slave, folk artist and quilt-maker from Georgia.

She used quilts to tell legends, stories and astronomical events. Her handiwork is considered one of the best examples of 19th century southern quilting. Only two of her quilts survive, but nonetheless demonstrate magnificent quilting skill.1 1

“Harriet Powers,” Wikipedia, last modified April 28, 2018, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harriet_Powers

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MALE FIGHTERS IDA BELL WELLS

Known as Ida B. Wells, she was a journalist, abolitionist and feminist in the 1890s. Born in 1862, Wells would go on to be one of the most revolutionary journalists of her time, changing the meaning of reporting.

In the time of William Lloyd Garrison and Frederick Douglass, Wells was able to make a name for herself writing, editing and lecturing against lynching.

While post-Civil War era lynching may not have changed due to her efforts, the roles women were allowed to hold in leadership and activism transformed for the better.1 “Ida B. Wells,” Bibliography.com, last modified January 19, 2018, https://www.biography.com/ people/ida-b-wells-9527635 1

ELIZA BURTON CONLEY

Born in 1869 and otherwise known as Lyda Conley, she was the first female Native American lawyer admitted to the Kansas bar. Conley, of Wyandot Native American and European descent, fought to save the Huron burial ground, becoming the first Native American woman to argue a case before the Supreme Court. Conley set precedents for women in law and Native American rights in the United States.

CHIEN-SHIUNG WU

Women of science have been some of the most historically neglected. Born in 1912, Wu was a Chinese-American experimental physicist who did revolutionary work in nuclear physics and on the Manhattan Project. Her discoveries led her to be called the “Madame Curie of Physics,” and helped her male colleagues win the Nobel Peace Prize. Wu successfully disproved the law of conservation of parity, as well as developed the process for separating uranium metal into isotopes.1

“Chien-Shiung Wu,” Wikipedia, last modified September 14, 2018, https://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Chien-Shiung_Wu 1

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LIFESTYLE

Fall D

COCKTAILS AND MOCKTAILS TH

DRINKS MADE AND ENJOYED BY EVA-DEL CASSIE HURWITZ, DEPUTY EDITOR AND M

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D r inks

HAT SPICE UP THIS SEASON

LILAH WIELAND, EDITOR IN CHIEF MOLLY RAPOZO, LIFESTYLE EDITOR

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Spicy Hot Chocolate Hot Chocolate Mix Milk 1 teaspoon Cinnamon Pinch of cayenne pepper powder Pinch of nutmeg Pinch of chili powder (optional) Prepare hot cocoa as instructed, adding the additional spices. Top with whipped cream and marshmallows as desired.

White Russian 2 ounces vodka 1 ounce kahlua Splash of cream Pour vodka and kahlua in a glass over ice. Add cream to taste.

Basil Lemonade Fresh squeezed lemon juice Sugar Water Fresh basil (can also add rosemary, mint or other leafy herbs) Combine lemon juice, sugar and water to taste. Garnish with basil or your favorite autumn herb.

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Apple Cider Martini 8 ounces Apple Cider 4 ounces Vodka 1 sliced apple Cinnamon or caramel (optional) Mix cider and vodka in a shaker with ice and shake, shake, shake! Strain into a glass and garnish with apple, cinnamon or caramel.

Mulled Wine 1 bottle red wine (this can be cheap cheap!)

4 ounces brandy 2 cups apple cider 2 sliced oranges Combine ingredients into a medium pot and simmer on low for 15 minutes. Serve warm.

For extra favor and aesthetic, add star anise pods, whole cloves and cinnamon sticks.

Cheers!

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FASHION

TRENDS T HAT H AUNT US

BY MARTHA DANIELS, FASHION STAFF WRITER MARTHA DANIELS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAX GOLDBERG

Note the contents of your donation bag—you might not want to get rid of it just yet. Recently, styles that could be considered ugly or unflattering have risen to popularity and even become fashionable. Many thought these trends would never return—some of them were not en vogue in the first place—but they are back on the runways and closets of the fashion elite.

‘Ugly’ fashion staples include leopard print, dad sneakers and fanny packs.

Despite their previous statuses as fashion faux pas, both designers and consumers have embraced these traditionally unfashionable styles.

While less intuitive than conventional trends, the ugly fashion movement has gained momentum due to its spirit of irony and undeniable fun.

In the early 2000s, leopard print existed mainly in the realm of party attire and coordinating children’s holiday outfits. In 2018, however, fashion influencers have interpreted leopard print for everyday wear. This eye-catching pattern is playfully bold and stands out more than basic stripes or plaid. Pair a leopard print coat with distressed denim and a statement boot for a chic, luxurious ensemble.

Dad sneakers have grown to reach mainstream status. These unusual shoes are often white and bulky, not unlike the footwear older men might wear to mow the lawn or

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visit amusement parks. Dad sneakers were never in style— they were a taboo—yet the fashion community sees something inherently hip about them.

Whether in muted or statement colors, pair dad

sneakers with leather pants, a plaid blazer and micro sunnies for high fashion heaven.

One of the most divisive fashion staples of the moment is the fanny pack.

Appealing to convenience seekers and street style stars alike, the reimagined cross-body styling and sleek materials like faux leather have given the fanny pack a stylish makeover. Kendall Jenner is notorious for sporting fanny packs in paparazzi shots and is an

unequivocal supporter of the ugly fashion movement. Channel her style by tossing a bright fanny pack over an all-black outfit or pairing a quilted Chanel pack with your favorite classy jumpsuit.

The fashion industry continues to break its own rules. These choices may return to haunt us, but sometimes it’s best not to take everyday dressing too seriously. Experimenting with style should be fun. If not a bit silly, ‘ugly’ is turning out to be rather chic.

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FASHION

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BEYOND KENNEDIE KING & REILLY KOCH PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAX GOLDBERG CREATIVE DIRECTION BY BROOKE KOMAS, FASHION EDITOR ASSISTANCE FROM THE FASHION TEAM: GLORIA REQUENA & CAROLINE COTTEN HAIR BY ASHLEY CHERNEY

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FASHION

T H E S PI R I T O F EN T

BY REILLY KOCH, CREATIVE DIRECTOR | LAHISH’A SUTTON, KELSEY AMBER, TATYANNA MARIE, MADISON MART On Saturday, September 15, Madalyn Joy Manzeck’s Femme Fatale collection cascaded down the runway at the closing night of Milwaukee Fashion Week 2018. It was only fitting that the sultry body of work debuted at the Potawatomi Hotel and Casino, this year’s dazzling venue. In the designer’s own words, “Described as a temptress or seductress who brings disaster to a man, the Femme Fatale collection harnesses the power and sensuality women possess and turns it into a steamy display of structured and strappy lingerie...The powerful leading ladies in James Bond films served as the inspiration for the collection in addition to the power play and shifting role dynamics between modern 21st

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century couples. The Femme Fatale woman embraces sensuality and power and isn’t afraid to take charge.”

A spot-on show note if there ever was one.

After graduating from the University of Wisconsin–Madison in the spring of 2016 with a degree in Textiles & Fashion Design, Manzeck harnessed her entrepreneurial spirit and started a business of her own, Madalyn Joy Designs, in Port Washington, Wisconsin. When asked how she started on this path, Manzeck replied that the decision to found her own label wasn’t always a conscious one.

“It happened quite naturally. My dad is an entrepreneur, so it definitely

runs in the family, but I never thought I would have my own business and brand! I really just wanted to pursue my passion, and I loved that I could make women feel their most beautiful and confident while they were wearing my designs.”

Once out of school, Manzeck started right away, creating collection after collection—Noir, Blanc, Angelique and Flora and Fauna—to name a few. It was the Flora and Fauna collection that earned Manzeck her title of Milwaukee Fashion Week Designer of the Year 2017. However, despite this success, Manzeck expresses that life as an entrepreneur isn’t always glamorous.

In discussing the trials she has faced along the way, Manzeck identifies three main challenges: raising capital,

T R E P R E NE U R S H I P

TEN & LORI MAE ZOLP PHOTOGRAPHED BY REILLY ROCH finding product-market fit and fighting stigmas associated with lingerie.

“It is so true that you need money to make money. I currently am facing the issue of how to raise capital in order to grow the business. It also has been tricky getting connected with the right clients in the area. I know they are out there, but we just haven’t connected with them yet. Finally, there still is a stigma regarding lingerie, and it has been my mission to fight it and make lingerie fun, yet sophisticated and for every body type.”

Even so, this designer’s spirit has not and will not be crushed by these tests.

One major reason for her perseverance is she ultimately believes the rewards outweigh the challenges.

“It is so incredibly true that it all comes down to the people you get to share experiences with. It has been so rewarding to work with other people who believe in the same things such as making women feel beautiful and confident.”

Another factor for Manzeck’s continued perseverance is her support system.

“One person simply cannot do it all by themselves, so that is why having a good support system is so instrumental to the process. There are so many people who are willing to help and it makes the journey so much more rewarding to share it with the people who truly care.”

At the end of the day, one thing is clear; Madalyn Joy Manzeck embodies the spirit of entrepreneurship and then some. However, she is cautious using that word. She says, “I don’t even call myself an entrepreneur because I feel like I don’t deserve the title yet. In my eyes, Jeff Bezos, Elon Musk, Sara Blakely, Bill Gates, Steve Jobs, Howard Schultz, Warren Buffet and Sir Richard Branson are all entrepreneurs.”

All of the above demonstrates that she is on her way to achieving spectacular things. We will be watching and supporting her every step of the way.

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CULTURE

THE INEQUALITY OF SCHOOL SPIRIT

BY ASHLEIGH PERRY, CONTRIBUTING WRITER | ILLUSTRATED BY HAIDEE CHU, CULTURE EDITOR

Going to a BIG 10 school is an experience that’s one of a kind— arguably the quintessential college experience. From the sports scene to the bar scene, all the way to greek life, UW–Madison spreads beyond its bounds a certain spirit that exists only on a big campus like itself. What a campus of 40,000 plus people might lack in intimacy, it compensates with school spirit. Look around at what people are wearing on any given day, and you can see a large constituency of the students wearing apparel related to the Badgers in some way.

Bucky is a mascot that can be recognized all over the world — and it sells. Walking into the University Bookstore, one has to venture to the basement for a single textbook; the name of the shop could easily lose the word “Book” because “University Store” still remains an accurate name.

UW–Madison’s school spirit comes with a retail aspect that adds to its lucrative brand, which contributes to the overall hype around the school.

While people don’t choose a university exclusively for something like the sports or bar scene, these aspects nonetheless play a big factor for many students who end up enrolling.

While a large portion of campus buys into the “Wisconsin Experience,” the atmosphere may not be welcoming to everyone. On game days, we tend to

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look only at what is visible—fraternity tailgates and people decked out in their best Badger gear going out to binge-drink—but we rarely take a step back and look at who’s missing.

For example, many people think of being in a sorority or fraternity as one of the staples of American college life. However, the small fraction of students participating in Greek life at UW–Madison is homogeneous and unreflective of the diversity the university boasts. Going to frat tailgates on a game day looks completely different to a minority student than it does to a white student. Many feel ostracized from the Panhellenic Greek life community; they feel uncomfortable drinking around people who aren’t like them due to incidents of racism that happen far too often on this campus.

While non–Panhellenic Greek life does exist for minority sororities and fraternities, university policies do not give them the same power or privilege—namely having houses— as they do for Panhellenic Greek life. Because of that, tailgates and sponsored parties may not be options for minority-run Greek life. As a result, they aren’t as visible a part of the school atmosphere as those who live in houses that dot up and down Langdon Street—or the “Greek Row,” in UW–Madison speak.

UW–Madison’s party scene aside, getting into sporting events is a very pruning process. Season tickets cost roughly $200, and if you aren’t able to get the season passes as they go on sale, buying a single ticket to the game can become very pricey because of rampant scalping. High costs for student tickets limit attendance to those people who have discretionary income. Students who struggle with the necessary living and college costs often can’t justify the steep price, so they are unable to fully participate in this iconic aspect of campus culture.

Cost is also a barrier to Greek life, with some sorority semester dues totaling to more than $1000. Oftentimes, these barriers to entry disproportionately target minority students which may have lower financial standing than their white counterparts.

Despite injustices underscoring the participation of school spirit, this issue is to many a blatant matter of fact— it is the way it is and the way that it has always been. Some see UW– Madison as an institution that serves only its white students justly, and this inequality manifests itself in realms beyond the academic arena. Unequal access to the “Wisconsin Experience” reveals itself in places many would never notice, but those looking from the outside often get the short end of the stick. They aren’t on a level playing field with their peers.

CULTURE

THE SPIRIT OF UNIVERSITIES Public attitude toward higher education institutions as sanctuaries for intellectuals, by the numbers

BY STEVEN JOTTERAND, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATION BY HAIDEE CHU Universities should be safe havens for truth seekers, competitive markets for vigorous intellectual exchanges and the pathway into the future.

Yet, 61 percent of Americans think higher education in the United States is steering in the wrong direction, according to a 2018 Pew Research Center survey. Predictably, there’s a divide between the left and right on why this is happening.1 Those on the right—Republicans and conservatives—were more likely to feel colder attitudes toward professors, contrasting the warmer attitudes given by those on the left—Democrats and liberals. Republicans also have an increasingly negative view on the impact of higher education on the direction of the country.2 Erasing party lines, however, concerns for the cost of education loom large.

Eighty-four percent of those who say the country’s higher education system is trending in the wrong direction attribute their attitude to the high price of college.3 Evidently, the cost of college has been a recent talking point; the cost itself is a burden to many.

There are 44.2 million Americans who owe student loan debts, together totaling $1.48 trillion. That’s about $620 billion more than credit card debt in the U.S.4 But 65 percent of survey respondents also say students aren’t getting the necessary skills for Anna Brown, “Most See Higher Ed Going the Wrong Direction. Partisans Split on Why,” Pew Research Center.

2 Hannah Fingerhut, “Republicans View Professors More ‘coldly’ than Democrats Do,” Pew Research Center, September 13, 2017.

3 Anna Brown, “Most See Higher Ed Going the Wrong Direction. Partisans Split on Why,” Pew Research Center, July 26, 2018.

4 “U.S. Student Loan Debt Statistics for 2018,” Student Loan Hero.

the workplace, which may, in turn, pose difficulties for recent graduates to pay back their loans.

Cost of education aside, many are also worried that the spirit empowering intellectual pursuit is dwindling because of various social and political factors.

About 50 percent cite that higher education is too concerned with protecting students’ views and with professors bringing their own political and social views into the classroom.5 According to the Cato Institute, 66 percent of Americans say higher education isn’t doing enough to protect the value of free speech. The survey also found that 65 percent say colleges should “expose students to all types of viewpoints, even if they are offensive or biased against certain groups.”

Contrarily, 34 percent say colleges should “prohibit offensive speech that is biased against certain groups.”6 Indeed, books like The Coddling of the American Mind: How Good Intentions and Bad Ideas Are Setting Up a Generation for Failure, recently published by free speech advocates Jonathan Haidt and Greg Lukianoff argue that ideas like safe spaces and political correctness actually harm intellectual development, because it is shutting out ideas and perspectives.

Others have argued that safe spaces create environments for difficult, sensitive discussions and foster critical thinking.7

1

Ibid.

Emily Ekins, “The State of Free Speech and Tolerance in America,” Cato Institute, October 31, 2017.

7 Barbara Mae Gayle et al. “Safe Spaces, Difficult Dialogues, and Critical Thinking,” International Journal for the Scholarship of Teaching and Learning 7, no. 2 (2013), doi: 10.20429/ ijsotl.2013.070205.

5

6

Wherever individuals may stand on the spectrum, one thing I hope all can agree on is that universities have an obligation to society to strengthen and challenge tomorrow’s minds.

UW–Madison seems to articulate this sentiment in their mission statement, pointing out it needs to provide “a learning environment in which faculty, staff and students can discover, examine critically, preserve and transmit the knowledge, wisdom and values that will help ensure the survival of this and future generations and improve the quality of life for all.”8 So ditch the helmets and the bubble wrap. Let feet shuffle in anticipation and hands raise. Let voices bounce off the walls and let them be heard. Let ideas duel each other.

Sure, some people will feel offended— someone will always be offended no matter the perspective. This person could be a conservative Christian, Muslim, a rich liberal or a minority.

But don’t forget that this is not about attacking individuals, but rather being open to hearing their stories.

Respect those who talk and respect their perspectives. Learn from it; exchange and engage, even if you wholeheartedly disagree. It’s clearly easier said than done, but worth every second when done right.

The spirit of universities must live on.

“Mission Statement,” University of Wisconsin– Madison.

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OCTOBER 2018 35

FASHION

V E R SACE:

MAIN TA IN IN G T H E S P I R I T O F TH E B R A N D

BY KASEY BUSIEL, FASHION STAFF WRITER

The public knows Michael Kors, the charismatic, affordable luxury designer praised in the industry for his mass commercial success. Behind Kors’ notorious designer reputation, however, is an eager businessman hungry to transform his brand into a US fashion powerhouse. In late September, the company dropped a bomb on the industry announcing that Michael Kors Holdings Limited bought Versace, the infamous Italian brand, for $2.1 billion. With Michael Kors, Versace and Jimmy Choo (acquired July 2017 for $1.2 billion1) under the

Holdings belt, the company plans to change its name to Capri Holdings.

Founded by Gianni Versace in 1978, Versace is a luxury fashion brand based in Milan. After the designer met a tragic death in 1997, his sister and muse, Donatella Versace, took over as Creative Director. Although the company began with the single launch of a womenswear collection, today Versace includes men and women’s ready-to-wear lines, as well as several diffusion brands and a growing home furnishings business.

Versace has grown into a dominant fashion force that is loved by millions, with customers ranging from the late Princess Diana to Beyoncé.2 The two influential brands seem like an unconventional pairing based on their contrasting creative visions—Michael Kors represents polished American glamour while Versace encompasses bold Italian luxury. The designers showcased their unique yet opposing styles in their Spring 2019 collections.

Versace’s was a creatively chaotic Matthew St. James, “History of Versace,” Fashion in Time, January 28, 2011 2

1

Ana Colón, “Michael Kors Is Buying Versace for

WESTERN ORBIT

36 MODA

$2 Billion,” Glamour, September 25, 2018

FASHION GONE ROGUE

mix of colors, floral prints, stripes and solids. Michael Kors shared in the love of bright colors—however, his looks were clean and coordinated. The solid black cutouts in Versace’s designs gave the collection a darker essence, while Michael Kors’ was the epitome of light, airy spring.

Before fans mourn the loss of Versace’s creativity and apparel masterpieces, rest assured—the spirit of the Versace brand will live on. Donatella Versace will continue her position as Creative Director, while her older brother, Santo Versace, and daughter, Allegra Versace, will become shareholders in Capri Holdings Limited. Luxury Conglomerates like Capri Holdings Limited are strategic for expansion opportunities. Conglomerates acquire unique brands with different strengths and target markets to increase sales overall. In return, the acquired brands represented by the core company

FASHION GONE ROGUE

gain both monetary resources and business guidance.

Donatella Versace will maintain creative freedom of the Versace brand, while John D. Idol, chairman and CEO of Capri Holdings, will provide business direction. The largest luxury conglomerate in the fashion industry is currently Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, LVMH, after acquiring approximately $53 billion in 2017.3 LVMH represents fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Fendi, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs and many more.

Loyal admirers will always love Versace’s recognizable European prints and gold statement fabrics, and with Donatella still holding the reins on the company’s creative Dhani Mau, “LVMH Posts Record 2017 Sales Driven By Fashion And Leather Goods,” Fashionista, January 25, 2018 3

direction, we can expect to see more of these iconic designs in the future.

The family business of Versace will continue their visionary work and make Gianni Versace proud. As Donatella explained, “This is a very exciting moment for Versace. Santo, Allegra and I recognize that this next step will allow Versace to reach its full potential”.4 Purchasing the Italian brand was a power move by the Michael Kors team. Although Versace had enough adoration and stability to stand alone, having the support and resources of another indomitable fashion house will make the brand unstoppable.

For now, we must all wait eagerly to see what this dynamic pairing will gift us next.

“Donatella Versace Remains As Creative Director After Michael Kors Acquisition,” AceShowbiz, September 26, 2018 4

OCTOBER 2018 37

CULTURE

DE F IN IN G A ND D E B U NK I NG THE A

AN INVESTIGATION INTO AN ASIAN AMERICAN EXPERIENCE THROUG

BY ARIANA KING, CONTRIBUTING WRITER | PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY ARIANA KING POST PRODUCTION BY ELLIE BRAUN, ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Imagine this. You’re in a hot, stuffy booth at a park entrance with no working air conditioner. It’s only five hours into your eight-hour shift at Waukesha County Park in Menomonee Falls, but you’re already ready to go home. A car pulls up to your window. You say the usual lines and expect the client will pay and go about his day. But he doesn’t. He stops the car to ask you, “Are you Chinese or Japanese?”

It’s a question you’ve heard your whole life, since you were a twoyear-old clinging onto your white mom’s arm in the supermarket. You answer honestly that you’re Chinese because you know that’s the answer he’s looking for, even though you’re really a culturally American Chinese adoptee who came to this country days after your first birthday.

This watered-down explanation of who you are did not stop his curiosity or interest, though. Since you’re Chinese, he assumes you know his Asian acquaintance, a fifty-year-old textile worker in Milwaukee. Of course you don’t know her; you don’t go around befriending fifty-year olds, visit Milwaukee or really know that many adult Asians in your all-white community. But that didn’t matter to this client or the countless others who have asked you to classify your identity.

All you are is Asian, and because of that you belong to one, glorious happyAsian family. “Wrong,” you want to say, but can’t. We aren’t all the same.

There is no collective Asian American

38 MODA

identity because, like every other social group, we have different identities in addition to being Asian.

We all differ based on socio-economic status, sexuality, gender, disability or ability and more. Not only that, we’re also divided by familiarity—or lack thereof—to our various Asian cultures, either through family lineage,

myself. Many of us grew up in white American families but are ethnically Asian.

Many people don’t accept us as Asian Americans and prefer to think of us as either “only American” or “only Asian.” And they often shut us down when we try to tell them otherwise. That happened to me in high school, when two boys in Spanish class insisted I was a “white girl” because I acted “more American” than the Asian stereotypes permitted.

Their denouncement of my Asianness ironically helped my case, though: If someone has to tell you you’re white, you obviously aren’t.

I chose to identify myself as an Asian and an American adoptee because being ethnically, even if not culturally, Asian has had an enormous impact on my life.

My Chinese heritage played a large role in shaping my passion for foreign language

language or involvement with local Asian organizations. Often times, too, solidarity among the different Asian cultures with which we identify are fraught by imperialism, colonization, genocides, wars, political conflicts and more. Those of us who are more removed from Asian culture are not always accepted as “legitimate” members of the Asian community, at least among Asian Americans.

The question of “Asianness” is particularly confusing and perplexing to Asian American adoptees like

and culture. Living between two worlds has also motivated me to become a writer and activist because sharing my story helps debunk myths about what being Asian American means. Asian American will never be defined— and never was—by only one thing. It is anything and everything that we want it to be.

AS I AN A MERICA N I D E NTI TY M YTH

GH THE VOICE OF A CHINESE AMERICAN ADOPTEE

OCTOBER 2018 39

LIFESTYLE

CONCR ETE UTOPIA:

A MOMA EXHIBITION ON ARCHITECTURE IN YUGOSLAVIA

WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED BY SAMAAYA JAYAMAHA, ARTS STAFF WRITER Looming at the base of Bascom Hill stands the George Mosse Humanities building, arguably one of the most unattractive and sullen structures on the UW campus. Inside, the building is a vast labyrinth of dreary hallways and dingy gray walls. It is a foreboding but rather interesting building to be located in the heart of such an active, colorful campus. It’s also not the only building here boasting a brutalist style: College Library, Forest Products Lab and Van Hise Hall all feature the same harsh concrete exterior and narrow windows.

Although they all seem somewhat out of place, there is much more artistic, architectural and historical significance than people realize. Many structures with similar architecture are currently making a major appearance at Manhattan’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in the exhibition “Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948-1980.” Over 400 largely unseen drawings, models, photographs and films make up the the exhibition, exploring the spirits of a dead socialist nation and the ideas of urbanization, modernism and consumerism in a post WWII society.

The country of Yugoslavia was born in 1948 as a socialist federation

40 MODA

under the leadership of Josip Broz Tito. Just to the east of Italy, the countries we know today as Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Slovenia all made up Yugoslavia at the time.

An array of languages, ethnicities and cultures were united under one roof. Although labeled as socialist, the country rejected both liberal democracy and Stalinism, thus finding an ideological in-between that heavily influenced new architecture of the time. This unique position provided an abundance of inspiration: Yugoslavia needed to assert itself as an ambitious, visionary nation with a sturdy foundation, and flaunting brutalist architecture was the swiftest way to achieve that.

Although at first glance many pieces in the MoMA exhibition appear as simply concrete remains, each building displays visionary aesthetics in stark, menacing ways. Ranging from national monuments to libraries, Yugoslavian architects relied heavily on purely concrete exteriors to explore technology and new modes of production. The concrete was both functional and affordable, although over the past few decades it has become evident that many of the buildings are in need of repair.

Construction was more concerned with storytelling and building a “new utopia” after the horrors of World War II, rather than worrying about the aesthetics of materials. Much immediate housing was necessary to provide for displaced citizens, while other dramatic structures such as the Tjentiste War Memorial commemorate a failed bloody battle in the remote Bosnian hills.

Understanding the spirits of Yugoslavia’s brutalist architecture brings us back full circle to the bustling UW campus. The Humanities building remains bleak and barren, yet upon closer examination perhaps the intentions of the architect in the context of the period are a bit more clear.

The concrete serves to emphasize the strength and tenacity of the departments housed inside: a bold way to signify singularity. But the message to exude independence, ambition and forward thinking is loud and clear—loud enough so that even decades later, the stories of the era can be told in the lingering spirits of even the bleakest of Yugoslavian structures.

LIFESTYLE

THE RAV E REA L I TY The harsh truth about drug use at music festivals, and how our nation should be responding ELISE ANDERSEN, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER | PHOTOGRAPH PROVIDED BY REILLY KOCH Known for being a carefree, nonjudgmental environment where people can escape reality for a few days, music festivals are continuing to grow in popularity across the country and world.

Right now, there are more big-time popular music festivals than at any other point in history—more than 150 are scheduled throughout 2018 and 2019 in the USA alone.1 It seems as though every weekend, hoards of music lovers find their way into festival gates to experience an event unlike any other. What draws most people to the music festival scene is the atmosphere, the art and of course, the music—but festivals have also become notorious for drug use.

While there is no universal answer as to why people choose to take drugs at music festivals, perhaps the most common reasons are that drugs are easily available within festival grounds, they can “enhance” the experience and it seems everyone else is doing it.

As the number of people attending music festivals increases every year, so does the number of people choosing to use drugs.2 Although many who use drugs at festivals leave seemingly unharmed, others are not as lucky.

Last month, Lost Lands music festival in Ohio confirmed the deaths of two men. Although the exact causes of these deaths remains unknown, the wife of one of the men reported in a Facebook post that he died from using fentanyl-laced cocaine.

The month of September also confirmed one drug-related death at a California music festival, two deaths at a Sydney, Australia festival and seven deaths at a festival in Vietnam. Although information regarding the drugs involved in these incidents has not yet been disclosed, authorities have stated that they were drug-related deaths.3 In 2017, Las Vegas’ Electric Daisy Carnival confirmed one ecstasy-related death, as well as over 1,000 cases of people seeking medical treatment.4 All of these drug-related deaths and hospitalizations have ignited fierce debates on how to stop the use and abuse of drugs at music festivals.

Many point fingers at the rave culture, alleging that it encourages drug use.

Legislation has been passed to try to stop the distribution of controlled substances at electronic music events, most notably the Illicit Drug AntiProliferation Act, otherwise known as the RAVE Act. This act gives authorities power to fine venue owners and event organizers that they believe are “knowingly and intentionally profiting from drug use.”

Aside from the RAVE Act, some believe the answer to stopping drug abuse is by banning electronic music festivals altogether. However, as history has shown, banning festivals and concerts will only force them to become underground events that are much more dangerous than what we have today.

The Ghost Ship fire that claimed 36 lives is the perfect example as to why we cannot ban music festivals and expect the problems that come with them to end.

In 2016, a fire broke out in a warehouseturned-artist collective known as Ghost Ship in Oakland, California.

How a festival or club “encourages drug use” is determined at the authorities’ discretion and could be something as simple as a festival selling glow sticks, offering cool-down rooms or even selling bottled water.

The building had no sprinklers and only two exits. At the time of the fire, Ghost Ship was hosting an underground house music concert. While the use of the warehouse as a concert venue was prohibited, it still took place and claimed many more lives than drugs have at a single music festival or concert.6 Had this concert taken place elsewhere, such as a venue meant for concerts, the loss of lives could have been prevented.

Opposers of the RAVE Act believe that it is responsible for the lack of drug safety at concerts, festivals and nightclubs. Parents whose children

The harsh truth of all this is that festival-goers are going to continue using drugs, no matter what security measures or laws are put in place.

Ryan Middleton, “After A Week of Festival Deaths, Banning Electronic Music Events is Not the Answer, But We Can Make Them Safer,” Magnetic Mag. 4 Kat Bien, “EDC Las Vegas 2017 Death Ruled MDMA Related,” Billboard.

5

3

Tyler Clark, “Why Did American Music Festivals Almost Disappear in the 1970s and ‘80s?” Consequence of Sound.

2 Julia Aldrich, “Music Festivals Need More Focus on Safety, Less on Security.” The Pitt News.

1

have died from drug-related incidents at festivals say that the RAVE Act is counterproductive because it has led to event organizers taking away certain safety measures that could have saved their children’s lives, such as cool-down rooms and free water.5

Marco Sgalbazzini, “The RAVE Act: What You Need to Know and Why It’s Still a Weight on Our Industry,” 6AM Group.

6 Matt Stevens, “2 Men Plead No Contest in Oakland Ghost Ship Fire That Killed 36,” The New York Times.

OCTOBER 2018 41

Instead of trying to ban drugs or festivals altogether or shaming and blaming drug users and event organizers, the answer lies in making safety a bigger priority.

The drug policies at music festivals, and in America as a whole, need to shift from abstinence to harm reduction.

With appropriate safety measures in place and proper knowledge about drugs and their side effects, many lives can be saved.

One of the biggest problems with drug use at festivals is that users are unaware of what they are really taking. Often, drugs such as cocaine and MDMA— commonly known by its street name, Molly—are cut or laced with dangerous, potentially lethal ingredients.7 Some European countries have adopted more logical drug policies that acknowledge the use of illicit drugs and aim at safety over prohibition. A common practice in the Netherlands, Austria and Spain: those planning on using drugs at a festival can submit drugs for adulterant screening to the Trans-European Drug Information Project (TEDI). A 2017 study found that individuals who submitted drugs for testing were much less likely to ingest them if they learned they were adulterated.8 TEDI is a network of European fieldwork drug checking services that aims at promoting health and safety in nightlife settings. Widely accepted throughout many European countries, this service reduces the number of people taking drugs laced with dangerous adulterants.

“Drug Checking,” DanceSafe.

Isabella Kwai, “Are Music Festivals to Blame for Overdose Deaths?” The New York Times.

7

8

42 MODA

A spokesperson from the United Kingdom’s branch of TEDI states that “this is a focus on public health rather than on criminal justice.”9 Back in the United States, adulterant screening is not a widely accepted practice and is seen as encouraging drug use. The CEO of Insomniac Events, the event organizer behind many bigname festivals in the US such as Electric Daisy Carnival and Electric Forest, explains that these services are not allowed at his events because “some people view partnering with drug checking services as endorsing drug use rather than keeping people safe, and that can prevent producers from getting locations and organizing events.”10 Although harm reduction agencies and fact-based drug education is lacking in the United States, some organizations are paving the way for a safer festival experience. DanceSafe is a public health organization founded in San Francisco that aims at promoting health and safety within the electronic music community. It neither “condones nor condemns drug use”—rather, they “provide a non-judgmental perspective to help support people who use drugs in making informed decisions about their health and safety.”11 With booths set up inside festival grounds, DanceSafe offers adulterant screening, free water and electrolytes to prevent dehydration and heatstroke (common side effects of drug use), and fact-based, unbiased information on Jon Chapple, “Plan to Take Drugs at a Music Festival? Do it in Europe…,” IQ Mag. 10 Suzannah Weiss, “This Is How Festivals Can Stop Encouraging Drug Abuse,” Vice.

11 “About Us,” DanceSafe.

9

drugs, their effects and potential harms.

Since current legislation in the United States does not permit this type of service, DanceSafe and similar organizations must convince festival security to “look the other way,” something that most event organizers will not let pass.12 Because of this, DanceSafe also offers at-home drug testing kits for individual purchase.

Other safety efforts that need to be implemented across all music festivals are free hydration areas, easily accessible medical services, increased food options and shortened hours to make sure people don’t overexert themselves.

No matter the laws in place or antidrug arguments swirling about our culture, people who want to use drugs will find a way to use them. Therefore, if someone is determined to take a particular substance, it would be more beneficial to provide them with information about the drug and how to take it in a safe way versus simply telling them to not do it. By being ignorant about the issue at hand, lives are being lost and the future of music festivals is being compromised.

Music festivals will never be drug-free— so instead of trying to stop drug use within festival grounds, working towards harm reduction would be a much more logical approach. People would be most safe taking no street drugs at all, but if measures can be put in place to reduce deaths and other adverse consequences, these efforts should be implemented without question.

Julia Aldrich, “Music Festivals Need More Focus on Safety, Less on Security.” The Pitt News.

12

P ART IN G CREATIVE DIRECTION BY REILLY KOCH & GEORDON WOLLNER, CREATIVE DIRECTORS MARIAH WEIMAR PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELLA GUO, PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

Dress: Good Style Shop OCTOBER 2018 43 White Boots: Forever 21

ARTS

T HE S PI R I T OF S OU L

BY MADELINE RASMUSSEN, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR

It has been almost two months since the passing of Aretha Franklin, but the “Queen of Soul” has woven herself so pleasantly into the mind-melting sound of contemporary soul and R&B music.

Her rich, sensuous vocals create the timeless tracks one can only describe as legendary. What is fascinating about her genius is the limitless range of influence she has had on her most talented aficionados. Countless female musicians have basked in her legacy and continue to flesh out the hearty genre of soul music.

As time passes and we inevitably distance ourselves from the trials and aesthetics of the 50s and 60s, more contemporary issues and ideas are handled by the modern musicians of today. Where the resolute leaders of the Civil Rights Movement once stood, now stand the artists of today who reconcile with the racism afflicting the country.

During the convoluted and hightempered hours of the Civil Rights Movement, artists such as Nina Simone took their lyrical prowess and used it to bring agency and inspire an outrage to condemn American racism. Simone’s talent and fevered lyrics were a medium in which elements of soul, jazz and blues could seamlessly coalesce.

In one of her most poignant protest songs, “Mississippi Goddamn,” Simone proclaims her grievances again and again throughout the song.

She croons, “Alabama’s gotten me so

upset/ Tennessee made me lose my rest/ And everybody knows about Mississippi goddam.” She repeats this several times throughout the song, alluding to the cyclical and unending oppression of Black people in America.

dilated and dissected as a means of understanding how our personhoods can be affected by something so abstract. It can be found in the internal plights and heartbreaks of artists like Lauryn Hill and Badu, but also in the lyrics of even more recent artists.

Simone passed away in 2003 at the age of 70. This may feel as if it happened so long ago, and many of those in her cohort are long gone, but the decades have passed and the original spirit of her music has not faltered. In many ways, the usurpers of soul have consistently reinvented the genre.

Fatimah Nyeema Warner, better known as Noname, builds upon the neo soul genre with her insightful, poetic lyricism that explores her inner turmoil, identity and sexuality. Her quips and witty puns help project the unique feeling of being 27, of being a woman and of being genuine but having empty experiences.

Erykah Badu, one of neo soul’s most prominent figures, began making music in the 90s and brought simmering jazz beats and crystal clear vibrations to the game. Badu is a holistic curveball in the world of R&B, a hippie alternative to the typical persona. Her sophomore album Mama’s Gun is like a glass of water filled to the absolute brim—satisfying to experience yet marked by the constant threat of a world-wide spill.

We hear Simone, we hear Badu, but most salient is the voice of Noname, a woman enduring a personal evolution, whose sound is laced with jazz, funk, soul and hip-hop—cultivating a cumulative musical history spanning 100 years. Though her references to political agenda or societal suffering are relatively sparse, the inward exploration that Noname endures sparks agency not only within her own being but also within others alike.

Badu grips with the anger and social inequality of an entire generation while simultaneously exuding an immutable femininity, and we are forever blessed with the wise affirmations of her matriarchy. We feel her self doubt, her troubled romances and her weariness with the world and its dejection.

The power of female soul artists over several generations is a power to incite agency. Whether it be for social change or personal growth, whether it’s 1964 or the early aughts, countless women have beaten the very system that attempts to quell their voices.

It is that deep, resilient sound that pierces through time and all other dissonance to deliver a message of strong femininity, spirit and love.

This blend of personal and political is a theme favored by many artists,

OCTOBER 2018 51

CULTURE

B EYON D ITS LO OKS Harajuku style tackle issues of mental health, serves as a mean of self-expression

BY EMILY BIAN, CULTURE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ILLUSTRATED BY MOLLY BURKI “This is my lifestyle. And I dress this way because I think it makes my life more fun,” says Kurebayashi,1 one of the most prominent Decora girls in Harajuku. “The first time I tried it, I was shocked…by just how cute I could be!” For many of us, the idea of dressing up and wearing costumes comes to mind only during Halloween season. It’s an annual event, an excuse to be your favorite character without fear of being judged by the people around you. But for those in Harajuku,2 extravagant fashion is far from just a cry for attention—it’s their culture.

From Decora3 to Yami Kawaii to Mori Kei,4 the spectrum of Harajuku reaches every corner the mind can reach. So yes, Harajuku is popping with outrageous trends, but what lies behind the flashy appearances?

As Cathy Cat,5 a Youtuber and reporter in Tokyo, eloquently puts, “Decora fashion is fun fashion! It’s very against the mainstream of things. It’s not in the magazines, it’s not elegant, it’s very much BOOM in your face!” For anyone following Decora culture, all things rainbow, pastel and of course, kawaii— the japanese word for “cute”—are a must! There’s no limit to how many accessories or hair clips one should or could use. But one question remains: Are they using their intricate costumes as a way to hide themselves?

“Fish breathe through their gills, right?

They have scales, right?” Junnyan,6 “Haruka Kurebayashi (@kurebayashiii) • Instagram Photos and Videos,” Instagram, accessed October 09, 2018.

2 “All You Need To Know About Harajuku Style,” RebelsMarket Blog, accessed October 09, 2018.

3 “Japanese Street Fashion,” Wikipedia, September 28, 2018, accessed October 09, 2018.

4 “Mori Girl (Forest Girl),” Alternative Fashion Wiki, accessed October 09, 2018.

5 “Cathy Cat カティー (@canudoitcat) • Instagram Photos and Videos,” Instagram, accessed October 09, 2018.

6 “Junnyan / じゅんにゃん (@junnyan69) • Instagram Photos and Videos,” Instagram, accessed Octo1

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one Harajuku Decora boy states. “It’s like asking why they have them.” For some first trying out the art of Decora fashion, they may not expect to feel so comfortable in layers and layers of accessories. But they nonetheless realize how, unlike wearing anything else, they feel the catharsis of being seen as a part of a movement—the freedom to connect with others who love Decora equally as much. To Kurebayashi and others, “[Decora] is not a mask, or like becoming a character. [They’re] not trying to hide [themselves]. The way [they] feel doesn’t change just because [they] put on a few accessories.”

While Kurebayashi and Junnyan are part of the Decora crowd, there’s a much darker, more raw side to Harajuku street fashion: Yami Kawaii.

The term “Yami Kawaii”7 takes root in the Japanese words “yami”— darkness—and “kawaii”—cute. The Yami elements are often inspired by motifs of mental illness, hospitals and sickness, to which Yami elements of kawaii are heavily tied. Together, Yami Kawaii style Harajuku often include props like bandages, sickly makeup, needles and more.

Menhera-chan,8 a comic character cultivated by artist Bisuko Ezaki, is one character sitting at the pinnacle of Yami Kawaii style.

“Abroad, people see mental illness and depression being the same as an injury. In Japan, they see a troubled person needing reprieve and take it as a sign of weakness,” Ezaki says. “I ber 09, 2018.

7 “Yami-kawaii Harajuku Subculture in Japan,” TokyoTreat, August 15, 2018, accessed October 09, 2018.

8 David, “Menhera-chan, A Public Face for Japan’s Mentally Ill,” Another Anime Review, May 16, 2018, accessed October 09, 2018.

want to change the negative image of mental health issues, and I think [Menhera-chan] is doing that. It uses those negative feelings that everybody has, whether it be some darkness or sadness, and makes it cute.”

But this is just a faction of the kind of social empowerment Ezaki said his art stands for.

Menhera-chan is an embodiment of depressing, self-harming thoughts locked inside the Kawaii facade we see at first glance. Oftentimes she will be depicted as her “meccha kawaii”— or uber-cute, pink-haired self— completed with bandages and her signature snap-blade knife. While this certainly may strike some as chilling, what Menhera-chan represents is the idea that some people struggle to cope with or understand their own mental state, and that things are not always as glamorous as they may seem. Though Menhera-chan was born as a reprieve from Ezaki’s college application days, her identity as the Yami Kawaii mascot has led and saved many who have felt lost by creating a sense of unity among those who resonate with the spirit of Yami Kawaii.

The different styles of Harajuku street fashion are not tools to categorize or box in the bearers. Quite contrary, the outrageous styles of Harajuku are the results of oppositions and rebellions against Japan’s uniform norms.

Empowerment, freedom, creative expression—Harajuku fashion is so much more than just an elaborate costume or mask. It’s a way to express a self that is bursting from within.

LIFESTYLE

G R OWING UP AND G ROW ING OU T

BY LEAH KRAMER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR

Coming into college is a transition filled with anticipation, excitement and nerves. Possible scenarios of what the year will bring swirl excitingly in your head, but at the same time these possible scenarios also may bring intense feelings of anxiety and dread.

Everyone talks about how college is the time to “come out of your shell,” but what does that mean? The following are tips to make coming out of your shell easier, and why now is the time to do so.

IT’S NORMAL

Walking into my freshman year of college, I was instantly thrown into an environment where it seemed as though everyone except me was completely comfortable in their own skin and in their new environment. I felt as if I was the only one who was not given a “How to College” manual before I unpacked my things those first few days.

I slowly learned that I was in no way alone with the overwhelming feelings that came with stepping into a new place. Those around me who seemed as though they were completely thriving were also completely freaking out. We had all left our homes, our friends, our families and the safe community that those factors created.

The confusion surrounding the question of who you want to be in college is normal.

The idea of coming out of your shell and being comfortable as your true self is thrown around too often, too casually and doesn’t justify just how difficult that journey can be. It is so incredibly normal to feel lost, scared and unsure of how to show your true self to the world.

But—it is possible.

WHY NOW?

People always say that college is the time to try new things and to discover new characteristics about yourself— and they are right. The freedom and amount of opportunity presented on a college campus is unlike any other environment you will find yourself in at any other time of your life.

Thousands of people your age are mushed together in one spot, all with a similar goal of discovering who they are, who they want to be and what they want to do. You have an independence that is unparalleled to one that you’ve had in the past. In college, each day is truly a new day, and with it can come new opportunity and experiences.

WHAT IF THINGS GO POORLY?

Fears of failure and embarrassment, or of things not working out as planned, often stop people from stepping out of their comfort zone. While it is completely valid to focus on these barriers and try to use them as an excuse to not do something, it is important to

realize that they are in fact, all in your head.

Let’s say you want to try out for the swim team. There are two possible outcomes that trying out would result in: making it or not making it. While the outcome of failing and not making it on to the team can seem paralyzing and embarrassing, it is unlikely to even enter the minds of anyone else.

Any reaction of others is hardly ever cruel or malicious, but is rather a reaction of respect and positive acknowledgment that you attempted something new. Understanding that others are not as judgemental as they seem is easy in theory, but not as easy to practice in day to day life. It takes time—but it can help to repeat to yourself that you are the only one standing in your own way.

TAKING ACTION

Coming out of your shell is not easy, and it takes personal motivation and drive. Try creating a schedule or calendar of something new to try each month, or making a list of risks you want to take before the school year is over.

This could include trying standup comedy on Wednesdays at the Comedy Club on State, joining a new organization, finding new places to study on campus or even sitting somewhere new in your lecture hall.

Try to block out an hour each week that you want to devote to exploring a new hobby, or an hour that has to be spent doing something completely random and spontaneous.

Whatever it is that will bring you out of your shell—embrace it. Remember that self-confidence is a work in progress, so enjoy the process and have fun.

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LIFESTYLE

G E T TING TH AT EXT RA W INK Find The Missing Piece In Your Sleep Routine

BY ISABELLA BYRNE, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR Interviews with supermodels usually involve some question of how they look so fantastic every day. They inevitably answer, “Beauty sleep!”— at which point you roll your eyes, turn off the TV and grab the nearest pint of ice cream. But the thing is, we know deep down they are right.

Sleep is not the single ingredient that makes a model beautiful, but it is crucial for maintaining daytime glow and minimizing bags under the eyes.

The term “beauty sleep” is often taken for granted.

There is a multitude of things that can keep us up at night—such as planning our outfit for the following day or worrying about whether our budget will allow us to purchase that jacket we have had our eyes on all season. An up-and-coming femaledominated company known as 41 Winks has designed an eye mask that just might allow us to get the eight hours we deserve.

can look stylish while enjoying that little bit of me-time with this super chic eye mask.

On each mask, there’s a powerful saying, such as “GIRL POWER,” “BLOCK OUT THE HATERS” and “OUT OF OFFICE,” that allows you to express yourself without saying a word.

percentage of sales to a non-profit organization known as I AM THAT GIRL,1 which strives to provide leadership as well as personal and social development by empowering high school and college aged girls in the United States. Ensuring our daytime glow, supporting female empowerment and helping students get the right amount of sleep—where sleep meets activism.

41 Winks is here to help women recharge—making them look great and feel even better! You can find these sleep masks on the 41 Winks website or in stores at Free People.

An extra perk of these stylish eye masks is that the company donates

We all know what an eye mask feels like—usually it’s made of an uncomfortable fabric that sits awkwardly on your face and makes you wonder why you even bother trying. The 41 Winks sleep mask will make you rethink sleep masks all together with its plush, pillow-like feel that blocks out light completely and doesn’t move around on your face. You will be able to catch a couple of much-needed zzz’s while feeling and looking like an absolute #BOSS. To truly restore our spirit, we owe our bodies all the “winks” we can possibly get. Whether you are taking a daytime power nap in between classes or preparing for your Sunday night sleep after a long weekend, you

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1“About Us,” I Am That Girl. http://www.iamthatgirl.org/

FASHION

SCHOOL UNIFORMS A THREAT TO THE SPIRIT OF FASHION

BY CLAUDIA PREVETE, FASHION NEWS CORRESPONDENT ILLISTRATED BY OLIVIA COSTANTINO

The freedom to express oneself through dress should have been an amended footnote to the Bill of Rights, but it should go without saying that the ability to select what you wear should rest in your own hands. The debate both for and against school uniforms and strict dress codes is an age-old controversy, but in 2018, social and political ramifications run much deeper than what can be examined on the surface. With that, the spirit of fashion, as well as the creativity and liberation that style should carry, run the risk of extinction among school-aged children required to wear uniforms.

The notion of a mandatory school uniform is inherently political. School uniforms are, more often than not, obligatory in the halls of private schools and therefore reinforce fashion as a status symbol. While arguments lie on both sides of the uniform

debate, because of fashion’s tie to status, this message moves beyond the classroom context. Uniforms denote an individual’s education type and background at any time and setting in which they are worn outside of school. In certain environments, a school uniform may be as much of an indication of wealth and privilege as logo-emblazoned designer clothing.

Separately, most school uniforms reinforce a rigid gender binary when it comes to clothing choice by having separate requirements for male and female attire. Enforcing such regulations sends a message to children that not only are they supposed to dress in either this or that, but they must additionally identify as one of two things. The assumption that school uniforms make things easier adheres to a constructed binary. For students who already face challenges in regards to the dominant

narrative of a rigid gender binary, the choice to dress as they please would be a source of light.

There is so much faith in the future of youth in almost all arenas—the future of fashion should be included as well. At a time when many young individuals are developing not only their senses of self but also their passions and interests, it is important to supply them with the opportunity to create and explore fashion as a form of expression and art.

During this time of apparent fragility, it is crucial to communicate that the spirit of fashion is one of inclusion and limitless opportunity, not exclusion, punishment or sentiments of ruleenforcement and control. Fashion and stylistic choices should hold true to their inherent property to provide emancipation.

School uniforms specifically threaten that freedom.

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