Moda Madison: Fall 2017 Print Issue

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Team ED ITO R I N C HI EF Darby Hoffman D EPUT Y ED I TOR Eva-Delilah Weiland AR T DI RE C TO R Alix DeBroux W UD P UBL I C AT I O NS COMMITTEE DIRECTOR L. Malik Anderson W UD P UBL I C AT I O NS COMM I T T EE A DV I S O R Jim Rogers W UD P RESI D EN T Iffat Bhuiyan ON THE COV ER Alex Yuan photographed by Marissa Haegele SPEC I A L T HA N KS TO Free People at Hilldale Madalyn Joy Designs

ASS O C I AT E A R T DI R E C TO R Lauren Chung P H OTO GR A P H Y DI R E C TO R Marissa Haegele A R TS C U R ATO R Ben Golden C R E AT I V E DI R ECTO RS Geordon Wollner Reilly Koch FAS H I O N E DI TO R Ashley Mackens L I F E ST Y L E E DITO R Cassie Hurwitz C U LT U R E E DI TOR Haidee Chu A R TS E DI TO R Margaret Duffey S O C I AL ME DI A AND MA R K E T I N G L I AIS O N Lindsey Young F I N A N C I A L MANAG E R Margaret Brennan WE B MAST E R Leah Leonidas

CRE AT IVE T E AM Mia Boulukos Brooke Komas Alexa McGoey Janey Sheth Channing Smith Emily Woodzicka STAFF WRIT E RS Amelia Faist Ashley Mackens Claudia Prevete Tenley Sanduski Shelby Spiegel CO NT RIB U T ING WRIT E RS Molly Burki Sarah Friedland Sam Georgson MO DE LS Sophia Andries Samantha Krusic Ashley Mackens Alexa McGoey Kaila Ruppel Cameron Smith Alex Yuan ART Mia Boulukos PH OTO G RAPH Y Caroline Daniels Marissa Haegele Morgan Jameson Robert Potter

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Table of Contents Fall 2017 FASHION

LIFESTYLE

06 Deviate & Diversify

22 F enty Beauty Breaking Barriers

Leaving definitions and categorizations behind

08 Anti-Spectrum

Subtle, simple, sophisticated

12 B reaking the Binary

refreshing and progressive shift A in the fashion industry

ARTS 13 Art as a Voice

30 Not Your Mother’s Makeup How Glossier is taking control of the beauty industry

34 Type A, Type B, Or Somewhere In Between

Introducing the personality spectrum

Challenging stereotypes associated with autism through unique works of art

FEATURED

14 Facing Oppression

24 The Spectrum of Sexy

Members of marginalized communities find their faces in mainstream culture through the work of three talented artists

16 Leaders in Diversity 4 MODA

Institutionalized racism does not stand a chance against Rihanna

UW Students who stand out for their efforts to counteract discrimination on campus

Feel good in your own skin... and gorgeous lingerie!

36 Flipside

Not a thing to do, but talk to you — on the flip side.

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Get Activated

In October, I had the opportunity to hear Teen Vogue Editor-in-Chief Elaine Welteroth speak at one of several Teen Vogue Summit Meetups held across the country. Members of the Moda staff traveled to Chicago for an evening of inspiration, discussing with fellow girl bosses the intersections of “Creativity + Activism.”

Each morning, I open my phone to see numerous tragedies gone ignored.

Nearly 70% of Puerto Rico remains without electricity after Hurricane Maria;7 the United States’ opioid epidemic claimed more than 59,000 lives last year8 and Flint, Michigan is still dealing with the water contamination emergency9 — and we are doing nothing about it.

These forces have become two of Moda’s most central ideals; as our I don’t care what your party affiliation content interweaves fashion, lifestyle, or “distance” from the issue is. art and culture, allowing our staff to Regardless, the majority of you showcase a variety of intersectional reading this are innovators, changeperspectives.

We embrace the agents and — more than anything continuum of those around us and — compassionate human beings. We question the dynamics developed as a want to make an impact on the world result. around us; so show it. Act it.

This desire to show how people’s’ lives are shaped by who they are has brought me to a realization: the spectrums in our lives are invaluable.

They facilitate appreciation for the degrees of uniqueness between us and our peers. However, I suggest that we shatter the spectrum on one key, generation-defining issue: compassion.

Though I welcome complexity, conditionals and opportunities for debate, I feel that agreeing to disagree or learning to tolerate is no longer enough when it comes to our supporting human beings.

I do not have to tell you that times are terrifying. Yet somehow, when the world seems to be falling apart, we are becoming increasingly isolated, rather than seeking community to uplift and empower one another.

Pause for a second and think about the most recent disaster that popped across your timeline. What was your response? Close your eyes and picture the people living through that reality and imagine: what if that was my family, my home, my life?

It is no longer enough to share a Facebook post, retweet 140 characters or wear your “ally” button. As Master of None actress, producer and screenwriter Lena Waithe motivated us in Chicago, now is the time to get activated in your activism.

These man-made divides along political lines and geographic distance allow us to make excuses and forget the humanity of those affected by Enough of the distant but comfortable tragedy. In confronting our spectrum “zero f*cks given” mentality. No one is of mutual accountability, we can adopt too cool to care. Instead of remaining a single, unifying goal of helping one content within the spectrum, why not another. come together and shatter it entirely?

1 Gomez, Alan and Rick Jerviz, “Puerto Rico power restoration: Why it is taking so long,” USA Today, October 30, 2017, 8 Hirschfeld Davis, Julie, “Trump Declares Opioid Crisis a ‘Health Emergency’ but Requests No Funds,” New York Times, October 26, 2017, 3 Roy, Siddhartha, “Senators Duckworth and Killed write to EPA Administrator Scott Pruitt regarding delays in the Lead and Copper Rule revisions,” Flint Water Study, October 31, 2017,

Best,

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FASHION

Deviate & Diversify Redefine your personal style by not defining it at all

BY ASHLEY MACKENS, FASHION EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHED BY MORGAN JAMESON

Recently, I have come to hate the phrase, “Define your personal style.”

Not because it is intrusive or offensive, but because it’s just so damn hard to answer.

For years, I thought I had to have a clear, succinct sentence that summed up my fashion sense. I have always been a firm believer that fashion is a form of selfexpression, therefore it was only logical that I would be able to characterize my outward appearance based on my personality, interests and inspirations.

Except every time I tried to explain my look, I felt as though I couldn’t craft the perfect phrase to encapsulate my clothing choices.

The truth is that on any given day, my style is different, and by having to describe it, I put myself in a box. The minute you decide to categorize yourself a certain way, people begin to consistently expect that identity from you. In a way, that is troubling — we are 6 MODA

only human beings after all. Our moods and emotions are wavering as well as fleeting. Our opinions and values change over time as we gain wisdom and experience. Really, personal style is in perpetual flux. And to be completely honest, sometimes we aren’t stylish at all. When life becomes too stressful and fast-paced, comfort and convenience take over. Still, as someone who considers herself fashion-forward, I am here to offer some advice for those that are too are sick of labeling themselves and their wardrobe.

It starts with shopping. Whether you are wandering the mall, perusing a boutique or surfing the web, remind yourself that the possibilities are endless. Don’t let what others may or may not think stop you from trying new things. The best part of fashion is experimentation. Just because you wouldn’t typically wear a fur jacket, for example, doesn’t mean you don’t have the ability to rock it and make it your

own. Most times, taking fashion risks pays off.

Eventually, you’ll find an individual style that you are comfortable with. In your diverse wardrobe, you may find a common color palette or recurring silhouette that best flatters you, while still showcasing variety. It is possible to emulate different eras, embrace a multitude of brands and still be true to yourself. Then, when someone asks you to “define your personal style,” you will be prepared to deviate from an expected answer and, instead, confidently respond with what it is that provokes your style in that moment.

I don’t see the fun, and frankly the point, in dressing one way for the rest of your life. Fashion is ever-changing, and we should evolve with it, rather than holding ourselves to daunting definitions of who we once were. Style can be both direct and ambiguous if we let it; and I think we should.

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Anti-spectrum DIRECTED BY ASHLEY MACKENS, FASHION EDITOR AND ASHLEY NG, CREATIVE CONTRIBUTOR COPY BY TENLEY SANDUSKI, FASHION STAFF WRITER

The anti-spectrum is what is left when you strip away the expected palette of vivid color and embrace the neutral gamut. In a world where it seems everyone is trying to be bolder, louder and more daring, maybe the best way to stand out is to be subtle, simple and sophisticated.

However, simplifying your shade selections does not mean you have to sacrifice style. By opting for neutral colors, you can easily up the sophistication of any look.

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“Every woman should have something pink in her wardrobe.

It is the color of happiness.”

- Christian Dior

Pink Sweater Banana Republic Tan Sweater Ann Taylor Loafers Aldo

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“I’ve always thought of accessories as the exclamation point of a woman’s outfit.”

- Michael Kors Bralette Victoria’s Secret Silver Loafers Nine West Leopard Loafers Nine West

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“ Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.”

- Coco Chanel

Blue Stripe Shirt Zara White Shirt Uniqlo Pink Stripe Shirt Velvet Heart

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FASHION

SAVVYNOVICE

DAILYMAIL

VOGUE

Breaking the Binary: Gender Fluidity in the Fashion Industry

BY CLAUDIA PREVETE, FASHION STAFF WRITER It is no news that women have adopted a number of archetypical elements of men’s clothing and made them their own. However, surprisingly, dressing in gender non-conforming manners is actually becoming more common.

According to the Harvard Business Review, “These choices are what performance studies scholar Madison Moore calls ‘fabulousness’ — a way of dressing and styling the body that not only disrupts gender codes, but also introduces new forms of identity into the world.” 1 It is safe to say that on both ends of the spectrum, men and women are side-stepping the rules and dressing in ways that underscore the fact that gender, itself, is on a spectrum.

In 2016, Jaden Smith starred in an ad campaign for Louis Vuitton, unexpectedly as the face of the brand’s womenswear collection. In the campaign’s images, Smith wears the same skirt as the women he’s photographed amongst. Looking at the images, Smith’s familiar face is, really, the only dead giveaway that he is male.

Ben Barry, “What Happens When Men Don’t Conform to Masculine Clothing Norms at Work?,” Harvard Business Review, August 31, 2017.

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While the gender fluidity of the campaign was “not shocking,” according to Vogue, having it come from Louis Vuitton — one of the most recognizable names in luxury fashion — is a step in the right direction as far as the promotion of more gender-liberal dressing. Men wearing skirts — or more generally, gender-role reversal — creates norm-defying looks that are considered to be typical of certain brands.

Outside of the campaign, Smith has also been spotted mixing more feminine elements into his street style and casual wear, proving that gender fluid dressing is not just a matter of high fashion magazines, but a part of everyday life.

With that, the loosening of the gendered dressing binary is becoming something pointed out and celebrated by more and more brands and fashion industry figureheads. Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik’s August 2017 Vogue cover story was aptly titled, “Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik are Part of a New Generation Who Don’t See Fashion as Gendered.” The so-called rules are no longer hard and fast, allowing for even the most celebrated and relevant

of fashion icons to take part. Vogue captures the movement and priorities of our generation in saying, “For these millennials, at least, descriptives like boy or girl rank pretty low on the list of important qualities — ­ and the way they dress reflects that.”72 Even while referencing the most recent round of fashion shows to hit the runway, it is evident that strictly male and female looks are somewhat antiquated. Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring Ready-to-Wear Collection featured a series of pantsuits, and Kenzo La Collection featured jackets, pants and dresses that could work for anyone and everyone, without gender being a factor.

It is refreshingly progressive to see big names and publications glorifying not just gender neutrality, but more of a freedom from gender as something that is held only within two categories.

Viewing gender as a spectrum is a mindset that opens so many doors in different spheres, including fashion.

2 Maya Singer and Inez And Vinoodh, “Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik Are Part of a New Generation Who Don’t See Fashion as Gendered,” Vogue, July 15, 2017.

ARTS

Art as a Voice

Kay Aitch

BY SARAH FRIEDLAND, CONTRIBUTING WRITER Society tends to focus on the limitations of autistic people, though many on the spectrum are highly talented.

Communication and recognition of social cues are particularly challenging to some autistic people. However, therapy can help those affected cope and discover alternative forms of communication.7 Art has emerged as an effective medium to overcome the divide between those on the spectrum and the world that subjects them to harmful stereotypes. Autistic artists challenge stereotypes by providing the world with a glimpse into their intelligent minds, which imagine and execute some extraordinary pieces.

At the age of 51, mixed media artist Kay Aitch was diagnosed with Asperger’s syndrome; Asperger’s falls on the “high functioning” end of the autism spectrum.

Those affected typically have “normal” cognitive development but difficulty understanding facial expressions and other social cues.8

out loud, art gave him a voice. He first learned to draw by moving his mother’s hand while she held a pencil. Despite therapists’ assessments that Belanger would have limited ability to even hold a pencil on his own, his artistic talent emerged in junior high school.10 The junior high school art teacher did not include Belanger because he was unable to follow the curriculum but the high school teacher opened her door to him to develop his talent. She encouraged his artistic ability through exposing im to a variety of artists for inspiration.4 Belanger draws a variety of subjects, including people, animals and locations, with bright colors and distinct lines. He completes commissioned works as a full-time career.

Like Belanger, Stephen Wiltshire was diagnosed with autism as a young child. Initially declared mute, Wiltshire communicated through drawing. His first illustrations were of animals, London buses and buildings. At the age of eight, Aitch uses her daily experiences as his innate artistic abilities gained media inspiration to create abstract drawings, attention. He later drew the Salisbury paintings, photographs and digital Cathedral for the British Prime Minister. images. “The resulting pictures, being a At the age of nine he spoke his first word fusion of observation and imagination, — “paper.”11 often give me a greater insight into my feelings, and also provide me a means to Today, after only brief visits, Wiltshire communicate my discoveries from the employs pen and ink to create detailed life I inhabit,” Aitch says on her website.9 cityscape illustrations.

Shawn Belanger was diagnosed with autism at the age of five. Rarely speaking 1 “Autism Therapies and Supports,” Autism Speaks, accessed November 2, 2017.

2 “Asperger Syndrome,” Autism Speaks, accessed November 2, 2017.

3 Kay Aitch, “Observation and Imagination,” About Kay Aitch, accessed November 2, 2017.

For Esther Brokaw, Savant syndrome — which typically includes specialization 4 Shawn Belanger, “Artist,” The Way I See It: The Art of Shawn Belanger, accessed November 2, 2017.

5 Stephen Wiltshire, “Stephen Wiltshire MBE Biography,” Stephen Wiltshire Official Site, accessed on November 2, 2017.

Shawn Belanger

Stephen Wiltshire

Esther Brokaw

in one area and great memory — has enabled her to excel as an artist without formal training. Using oil paints, watercolors and pastels, Brokaw focuses on color and detail in her work.12 She hopes that her success will act as an example “of the talent that exists in many on the autistic spectrum and... encourage the world to utilize these talents.”13 6 Esther Brokaw, “About,” Facebook, accessed on November 2, 2017 7 Eliza Strickland, “How Autistic Artists See the World,” Discover Magazine, November 2, 2017.

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ARTS

Facing Oppression Mainstreaming the Marginalized through Portraiture

BY MARGARET DUFFEY, ARTS EDITOR While a portrait frames only one face, it tells two stories. The invisible story is that of the artist: who they choose as subjects, what colors they select, how they pose their subjects and what backgrounds they use all reveal almost as much about the artist as they do about the subject. Factors such as environment, race, gender, sexuality and class define the artist and inspire their personal portraiture style. The following three LGBTQ+ artists, Annie Leibovitz, Kehinde Wiley and Catherine Opie, have worked to redefine and reposition marginalized communities in mainstream culture through portraiture.

ANNIE LEIBOVITZ Annie Leibovitz, arguably one of the most talented American portrait photographers, has an extensive work history, which includes some of Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair’s most recognizable pieces.

Just hours before the assassination of John Lennon, Leibovitz took a picture of him, naked and clinging to a clothed Yoko Ono for Rolling Stone. Captioned “More Demi Moore,” Leibovitz’s Vanity Fair cover of the naked, pregnant actress drew a mix of criticism and compliments for its highly intimate appearance. Leibowitz was also behind the widely distributed Caitlyn Jenner cover, which marked her public introduction as Caitlyn.7 Leibovitz was in a 15-year relationship with Susan Sontag, a talented essayist,8 until Sontag passed away in 2004. Leibovitz’s documentation of Sontag’s life and death, including her struggle with cancer, is possibly her strongest work, as it explores a level of intimacy distinct to a personal relationship.1 What distinguishes Leibovitz from other photographers, though, is her ability to achieve a level of trust with a subject soon after introduction.

“When I say I want to photograph someone, what it really means is that I’d like to know them. Anyone I know, I photograph,” Leibovitz said.9 Her ability to capture the individuality of a subject in a single image is a testament to her talent and approachability as an artist.

“Annie Leibovitz,” Biography.com, January 8, 2016.

“Susan Sontag,” Biography.com, July 15, 2015.

3 John Paul Caponigro, “28 Quotes By Photographer Annie Leibovitz,” John Paul Caponigro: Illumination Creativity, February 20, 2014.

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THE HIVE

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KEHINDE WILEY Through contrasting culturally distinct styles, Kehinde Wiley initiates a conversation surrounding historical oppression of black and brown people. Drawing inspiration from classical European portraiture in background style and model positioning, his use of models of color wearing street and hip-hop-inspired clothing strikes viewers as surprising. The larger-than-life scale of the portraits and bright colors amplify the impact of his works. Within the typically whitewashed portrait galleries of traditional museums, Wiley’s work gives brown and black people a place in the traditional context, without sacrificing their cultural identities. His artwork aims to “quote historical sources and position young, black men within the field of power.”7 Wiley wears what appears to be a wedding ring on his left hand, despite being a single gay man, in an effort to make his models feel comfortable posing for him.8 It appears to work, as his portraits exude a level of strength and confidence which feels distantly familiar. The familiarity is stemmed in portraits of strong European monarchs, so, through the insertion of color, he and his models redefine the traditional power dynamic which is typically confined within whiteness.

This past fall, former President Barack Obama selected Wiley to paint his official presidential portrait.9 In light of Wiley’s efforts to redefine what a leader looks like, it seems appropriate that he will be painting the first African-American president.

Wiley’s painting will stand out in The Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery, where all 43 presidential portraits to come before Obama are white.

KEHINDEWILEY.COM

Kehinde Wiley, “About,” Kehinde Wiley Studio, Accessed on November 3, 2017.

Wyatt Mason, “How Kehinde Wiley Makes a Masterpiece,” GQ Anne Quito “Obama Picks Genius Hip-Hop Portraitist Kehinde Wiley ot Paint His Official Presidential Portrait,” Quartz, October 14, 2017.

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CATHERINE OPIE Throughout Catherine Opie’s career, her style of photographic portraiture has evolved, strategically switching between color and darkness to place emphasis on particular themes and details. Similar to Wiley in her most recent exhibitions “Portraits and Landscapes”7 and “Keeping an Eye on the World,”8 Opie employs powerful poses, which reference European portraiture. Unlike Wiley, who is known for his explosive backgrounds, Opie uses darkness to illicit quietly powerful, yet uncomfortable impressions. Her subjects seem to simultaneously blend into and stand out against their dark backdrops. On this observation, she has said, “For me, it was a question of creating space in the image so that the body becomes a form of architecture in relation to the structure, while at the same time being about the person in the community.”9 Throughout her career, Opie has worked to reposition members of marginalized subcultures, such as those of queer and leather communities. She has drawn inspiration from traditional 16th century artists, such as Hans Holbein who focused on staging to place members of these often rejected communities within a historically powerful context.9 Opie told Artnet.com that living in President Donald Trump’s America is “horrible.”

She said “the culture of hate is well and alive in America in the most disgusting way. I would have never imagined that we would be here following an Obama presidency.” As a lesbian professor and artist, she challenges this hate on a daily basis through her work, which rejects the reality she describes in modern America.9

REGEN PROJECTS

All of these artists repurpose traditional styles to mainstream marginalized communities. Through the faces they paint and photograph, they identify the strength of individuality.

By creating visual representations of these oppressed communities, the artists address discrimination and rejection in America today.

“Catherine Opie: Portraits and Landscapes,” Wexner Center for the Arts.

“Catherine Opie — Keeping an Eye on the World,” Henie Onstad Kunstsenter.

Loreana Muñoz-Alonso, “Catherine Opie on Her Majestic New Portraits, the ‘Alt-Right,’ and the Misogyny of the Art Market,” Artnet News, October 17, 2017.

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ARTS+CULTURE

L EA D E R S I N DI V E R S I T Y

BY AMELIA FAIST, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT POST PRODUCTION BY LAUREN CHUNG

In 2017, America replaced its first African-American president with a white man who has been accused of housing discrimination, racism and sexual assault.

While many believe the president is working to divide the nation, University of Wisconsin-Madison students are working within their communities to unite members and provide support through these turbulent times. The students featured in this spread are choosing to live by example, as they promote acceptance and provide hope for a better future with them as prominent leaders.

Let the experiences these students share inspire our own insights & actions in the incredible diversity that surrounds us.

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ALEXANDRA HADER Associated Students of Madison Equity & Inclusion Chair The best advice I received was that every time you get pulled back, you will shoot forward. I always remind myself of this when things are not quite going as planned and I need to regain confidence in what I am doing.

I think the most meaningful thing that I have been able to accomplish within my role has been working on getting complimentary menstrual products on campus with other student leaders.

This was the first tangible thing that really felt as if the work I am doing can benefit students when it is accomplished.

CHARLES FATUNBI National Society of Black Engineers Finance Chair & Chapter Senator African Student Association Public Relations Officer Leaders in Engineering Excellence and Diversity Student Ambassador The best advice that I have received is to always find a balance between selfconfidence and humility. As someone who aspires to be a leader whom others can look up to, I would like to take initiative and set the pace, without compromising my character.

With that being said, my greatest achievement has been learning to overcome imposter syndrome. Being bold and not holding back my ideas and opinions has opened the doors to some of the best opportunities that I could’ve asked for! I think a big part of this is understanding the value that I can bring to the table in all settings and learning to accept rejection with ease.

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LAURA P. MINERO Student Representative for the National Latina/o Psychological Association Co-Founder of DREAMERS of UW-Madison UW Madison Trans Research Lab Research Assistant The greatest advice that I would give someone is that for every “no” that you hear in life, make sure that you have 20 more people in your life saying “yes.” I share this because this is what helped me counter all the doors that closed on my face and all the times someone didn’t think I belonged in college or thought that I couldn’t get into a Ph.D. program and achieve my dreams. I had more people that did support me and believed in my mission and vision, and I chose to focus on that and let that propel me forward. Remember that anything is possible, and the universe will conspire with you to 18 MODA

help you achieve your dreams if you persist by believing in yourself.

My greatest achievement in my 27 years of life is having the ability to love myself and live fully and authentically as a queer, undocumented, non-binary womyn of color, despite the marginalization, oppression and interpersonal trauma that I have experienced throughout my life. I am proud of rising, creating a counter narrative and fighting against injustices every day of my life with love for myself, the other and all of humanity being at the center of my social justice work.

MORGAN ADKINS College of Engineering Diversity Affairs Office Student Outreach Ambassador “Learn about people, by people and for people.� The way to build relationships with people, whether with a close friend or an acquaintance at work, is learning about them. The most effective and beneficial way to do that is to learn first-hand from them. They can offer insight into their habits, preferences [and] values better than anyone else.

And why bother building relationships with others? Because we were made to be in relationship with other people.

We are surrounded by people like us and people completely different than us. We want people to take the time to know us for who we really are, so I think that we should offer others the same.

My greatest achievement has been being involved in a variety of activities across campus. I do engineering and STEM outreach with high school students, volunteer with Middle School Ministry through Blackhawk Church, work in a research lab in Biological Systems Engineering, write for the

Wisconsin Engineer Magazine, am a Leaders in Engineering Excellence and Diversity (LEED) scholar, help lead with Badger Cru and am involved in Badger Pulling, our quarter-scale tractor student org. The people that are involved in these things are very different from one another. Each group has a different dynamic and a different background. My middle school students have a much different perspective than the post-doctorates I work with in the research lab. This variety has shaped me more than anything else in college, and I think that it is a large part of the reason why I have been successful here.

These leaders, along with many other students, faculty and community members, are making a great mark on the celebration of and advocacy for diversity. May their experiences inspire and motivate our own efforts and put into perspective the great things we can achieve when we work to accept, love and stand up for one another.

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RACHEL HAYNES Campus Diversity and Climate Committee Student Appointee Working around issues of diversity is not always easy, and there have been times when I have felt like giving up. However, growing up, my Dad always encouraged me to never give up on anything you are passionate about, and, because of that I have built a relentless work ethic when pursuing my passions. I believe this type of persistence can lead to change.

Recently, I have had the opportunity to be a facilitator for UW-Madison’s Our Wisconsin program. The Our Wisconsin program’s objective is to bring awareness to issues of diversity and identity through nurturing a conversation about these issues.

I have had the privilege of fostering these conversations, and in the process, I have not only seen change within others but also within myself.

MARQUISE MAYS President of UW-Madison Black Student Union Creator of Short Documentary “Voices” The greatest advice that I’ve received thus far was investing in yourself. This particular advice has reshaped the way in which I navigate spaces, always ensuring that I am making the best decision on my behalf. It has allowed me to realize that my work and my future is an investment that I should be giving the most time and effort to.

My greatest achievement thus far was creating my short documentary “Voices.” Even with deadlines and quick turn around times, I was able to produce a piece that has refueled my passion for filmmaking.

It has given me the confidence to know that I was chosen to tell stories, and that I was chosen to grow with the story that I am telling. It has taught me patience and stillness. It has reminded me of the talents that I tend to neglect. I am thankful for the stress, because it has only made me more vulnerable and free as a storyteller.

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YUSRA MURAD Campus Diversity and Climate Committee Student Appointee The greatest advice I ever received was from my parents — it always is, isn’t it — who emphasized to me from a young age the importance of understanding that, with few exceptions, everybody truly is doing what they believe is right. Most people have good intentions, and if we are to have any real shot at overcoming injustice and finding peace in a broken world, we need to start humanizing one another as best we can. This is the lesson it has taken me the longest to learn, and

I still struggle with it each time I’m — a coalition of generous, beautiful faced with difficult conversations or artists, musicians, scientists, frustrating obstacles in my path, but activists, writers, caregivers. I trust I’ve got no doubt that if we were all and I am trusted; my growth is the to understand this concept, it’s very product of the people who cherish possible our world would be in a me, and I have helped others grow. different place.

While I’m still working on the whole finding a job and making money My dad reminds me often that it is side of things, I share deep, requited much easier to find a job and make love with people in all the corners of money than it is to find, grow and my life, and if that ends up being my maintain raw, emotional human life’s work, I’m satisfied. connections. I am so proud of myself for finding the support system I have

These leaders, along with many other students, faculty and community members, are making a great mark on the celebration of and advocacy for diversity. May their experiences inspire and motivate our own efforts and put into perspective the great things we can achieve when we work to accept, love and stand up for one another.

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LIFESTYLE+CULTURE LIFESTYLE

Fenty Beauty Breaking Barriers

BY SAM GEORGSON AND MOLLY BURKI, CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ILLUSTRATIONS BY MIA BOULUKOS Rihanna’s new Fenty Beauty line has reenergized the conversation of inclusivity in the industry, and it is taking the makeup world by storm.

The launch of this pop star’s cosmetic line was highly anticipated — and rightfully so. Rihanna shares on her website the tagline of this series, a line “for women of all shades, personalities, attitudes, cultures, and races.”1 It is simply revolutionary. Rihanna’s brand has so many inclusive features, especially for women of color; and it has gone far beyond any other beauty brand in pinpointing the underlying institutionalized racism that exists in the makeup industry today.

Riri’s line went live on September 8, 2017, and people are still gushing about the quality and inclusivity of her products. All Sephora lovers and makeup hoarders can certainly agree that finding the right shade of foundation is essential in crafting the perfect look. For some, this has never been more than an effortless trip to the nearest convenience store. For others, however, this task proves itself impossible. Far too often are people of color left settling for the next best shade.

For an industry that so heavily emphasizes the importance of feeling beautiful and the empowerment that comes with boosting your own selfconfidence, it is shameful that such a gap in representation exists. This void is what inspired the Fenty Beauty line.

Rihanna’s brand put all others to shame when she released 40 foundation shades and 30 new skinstick colors “Fenty Beauty by Rihanna,” Accessed on November 3, 2017.

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Fenty

Beauty,

to compliment all skin tones. Fans with dark, rich skin tones that have otherwise been underrepresented in the industry raved about this beauty line.

Members of the Albinism community are also celebrating the new line, including Krystal Robertson, an African-American woman with albinism who has reported difficulty in finding makeup products for her light skin tone.2 After trying Fenty Beauty’s Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation in shade 110, the second to lightest in the collection, Robertson turned to Instagram to share her glowing review of the product. Her post quickly went viral.

With this release, Rihanna has opened the doors to an inclusive world of makeup for all, something many other brands fail to do. Companies such as MAC, L’Oréal and Esteé Lauder offer foundations in darker shades, but women of color will tell you that they are not impressed. Although these Embry Roberts, “Woman with albinism finds perfect foundation — and she has Rihanna to thank,” Today, September 20, 2017.

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brands attempt to release lines that will give people of color access to a variety of shades, they are often still highly underrepresented or misrepresented.

The brands rarely provide dark shades, and different undertones are always disregarded.

Micaela Choo Banks, expert in Fine Arts and Communications, conducted a study and found that all minorities portrayed in beauty magazines are light-skinned. This representation creates a racial hierarchy “where white beauty is viewed as superior.”3 Holding lighter-skinned beauty as the superior image discredits the beauty that darker skin beholds. It can cause people of color to feel less beautiful simply because of their skin color. This not only misrepresents and undermines the full array of identity inherent in people of color, it also strips away their ability to use makeup as the empowering, artistic tool it is meant to be.

Behind their the aim of

supposed inclusivity, the aforementioned

Micaela Choo Banks, “White Beauty: The Portrayal of Minorities in Teen Beauty Magazines,” (Master of Arts Thesis, Brigham Young University, 2005).

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“For an industry that so heavily emphasizes the importance of feeling beautiful and the empowerment that comes with boosting your own selfconfidence, it is shameful that such a gap in representation exists.”

racism still is today. This kind of systematic oppression is embedded into our everyday lives to the point that it goes largely unnoticed to those who are unaffected by it; white people are able to ignore these harmful racial tendencies due to their privilege. These patterns of racial discrimination are so consistent that they begin to slide under the radar, allowing prejudices to be brushed off with excuses like “that is just the way things are.” This oblivion impairs the mainstream’s ability to realize the harmful effects of these underlying racial disadvantages.

brands is often to increase sales, not in providing a variety of shades to users. Valuing sales and revenue over the well-being of the consumer has become a recurring issue in the beauty industry. This phenomenon largely undermines the importance of inclusivity and encourages brands to turn makeup into a marketing ploy that disregards the need for shades that fit all skin tones. Brands can profit off of our country’s history of racial oppression by marketing darker shades of foundations and powders as new and revolutionary. Although these brands frame themselves as heroes of the industry, the availability of these products should be standard for all makeup users, no matter the pigmentation of their skin — and still, these products fall flat.

However, Fenty Beauty proves itself an exception to this oppressive status quo. Rihanna took her makeup line and stepped up to the plate by offering multiple shades for “a new generation of beauty.” With this move, Rihanna’s line is taking a progressive step towards uncovering the racial patterns that have been integrated into multiple aspects of everyday life, even your morning routine.

Many people believe racism is a thing of the past, something that has already been overcome. Yet, situations and events all around us prove otherwise.

A relatively recent event with much media coverage was the protest in Charlottesville and the lack of action that was taken by the government to speak out against white supremacy.

Although overt forms of racism like this are easy to spot, racism is not always so easily identifiable. There is an underlying, systematic form of racism that is rarely mentioned in media or in public, and the beauty industry serves as a perfect example.

For example, Londone Myers, a Black model, took to Instagram to show the prejudice she experienced at Paris Fashion Week. She posted a video of hair stylists tending to multiple white models, while simply ignoring her out of wariness of her natural hair. Myers called for equality when it comes to styling, noting that she is often sent down the runway unpolished and pointing out that the stylist would be fired if a white model shared her experience.4 The lack of accessibility in the makeup industry demonstrates just how prevalent the issue of institutionalized Londone Myers (@londonemyers), “I don’t need special treatment,” Instagram photo, September 29, 2017.

4

The beauty industry is one of many that is highly burdened by institutional racism, whether it be in modeling, makeup or fashion. Although the industry is evolving, people of color still comprise less than half of those employed or represented in beauty and fashion.5 The perception that this issue has come to a close is an example of the tokenistic fallacy, in which people take these small developments in equality as evidence that racism has ended. There is a lot that needs to be done to stop institutional racism, and consumers can begin by recognizing the many industries and institutions that are still disregarding a large and vital part of the world’s population.

In a statement on Fenty’s website, Rihanna tells fans that she created Fenty Beauty “so that women everywhere would be included, focusing on a wide range of traditionally hard-to-match skin tones, creating formulas that work for all skin types and pinpointing universal shades.”5 Hopefully, Fenty will encourage other beauty brands to hop on the bandwagon and begin catering to people of all colors and complexions.

Once again, the music, fashion and beauty icon has graced the world with her knowledge and power, and has given us the gift of being able to feel beautiful in our skin. Rihanna’s recognition of underrepresented groups has brought love and diversity to the world’s most beautiful industry, and for that, we owe her a thank you.

5 “Fenty Beauty by Rihanna,” Fenty Beauty, Accessed on November 3, 2017.

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THE SPECTRUM OF SEXY KAILA RUPPEL PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE DIRECTED BY ASHLEY MACKENS, FASHION EDITOR FEATURING MADALYN JOY DESIGNS Special thank you to Eno Vino Being sexy is all about feeling confident in your own skin. Madalyn Manzek, of Madalyn Joy Designs, knows this better than most. Her bespoke lingerie is made with a woman’s personal style and comfort in mind. From cute sleep sets, to glamorous runway-inspired looks, there is something for everyone in this designer’s repertoire.

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Eloise Black Lace Bralette and Luna Satin Shorts FallPJ 2017 25

26 MODA Bella Black Lace Bodysuit

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28 MODA Chloe Champagne Bodysuit and Champagne Silk Habotai Skirt

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Alexa is wearing Stretch Concealer in Medium, Wowder in Light/Medium, Boy Brow in Clear, Cloud Paint in Haze, Haloscope in Quartz, Balm Dot Com in Rose, and Generation G in Zip. 30 MODA

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S MAKEUP: THE RISE OF GLOSSIER WRITTEN BY GEORDON WOLLNER, CO-CREATIVE DIRECTOR ALEXA MCGOEY PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAROLINE DANIELS MAKEUP AND DIRECTION BY CASSIE HURWITZ AND GEORDON WOLLNER

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Enter the new era of beauty: the fresh, cool, slightly nostalgic era of glowing skin and dewy shine; the unapologetic celebration of imperfections, differences and real girls in the real world. Emily Weiss, founder of beauty and fashion blog Into the Gloss and founder and CEO of Glossier, has brought this era to life. Beginning her journey with ITG in 2010, Weiss turned the blog into a well-oiled, star-studded, top shelf business.

After a few years of cultivating the popular site, Weiss realized the need to build a better product that, unlike other offerings at the time, was easy to use, highly accessible and could be worn by a wide range of people. Thus, Glossier was born. Since its launch in 2014, the brand has become one of the most sought-after cult favorites in the market.

Glossier’s cool-girl, tell-it-like-it-is voice mixed with a DIY aesthetic places the brand in an elevated space that feels individualized, personal and trustworthy

TALK BUSINESS TO ME So, how exactly did we get from Into the Gloss to Glossier? In Weiss’ letter introducing Glossier to the world, she explains, “Who are we? We are you, listening to everyone, absorbing all of this information over the years, and trying to get at the core of what beauty is — and needs.”1 Taking years of comments and concerns of the ITG following into consideration, Weiss began to rethink the products that already existed to create the ultimate dossier of products that allow the individual to glow and shine — literally and figuratively.

With a boundless level of passion backing them, Weiss and her team of entrepreneurs revolutionized the beauty industry. From the outside looking in, the transition to Glossier from ITG appears nothing less than seamless. Their secret to success: avoiding exclusivity for all customers. The products are affordable and accommodating to many, yet the entire line feels completely individualized and personal.

It is this balance of inclusivity, personalization and accessibility that keeps Glossier at the forefront of the cult brand industry.

FRESH FACED SOCIALITES From their “Get Ready With Me” feature on YouTube with over six million views (and counting) to their very real, very pink Instagram feed, Glossier is doing social media right. Every inch — pixel — of their platforms embodies the Glossier image. Yet, it is not just the #GlossierPink that makes the brand so appealing. With the community of ITG already generating a genuine following, Glossier launched on Instagram with the goal to be more than friends — a friends-with-benefits, of sorts. They are that friend you can always go to for beauty tips, sharing stories, a shopping companion and those much-needed confidence-boosting chats.

Glossier wants to be “that” friend, your confidant and BFF.

Glossier celebrates the perfectly imperfect moments and encourages everyone to keep their head in the clouds — with Cloud Paint on, of course — by sharing images and words that are kind, authentic, transparent and cool. The brand’s savvy use of social media platforms and online marketing have created a community — a friendship — that you just cannot help but desire to join.

SKIN IS IN First and foremost, putting all shades of pink and makeup aside, the idea was to make a range of products that are universally flattering and easy to use.

Mission accomplished. For Glossier, it all starts with happy, moisturized and glowing skin. Not to mention, one Glossier aphorism of choice that has made appearances on shipping boxes, reusable tote bags and re-grammable graphics is: “SKIN FIRST. MAKEUP SECOND. SMILE ALWAYS.” The next step, although it is by no means a requirement, is to go for the makeup. Brush your brows, add a little blush, swipe on some lipstick (or not) and head out the door. The description for their Stretch Concealer reads, “Makeup that lets skin look like... skin!”2 Skim over the other descriptions of their products and you will find lines such as, “What it won’t do? Hide your freckles, spackle your pores, or erase any other evidence that you are, in fact, a real human being,”2 and words including: adaptable, healthy, gentle, different and natural.

All of these describe more than just products. They hold in them the heart and soul of Glossier. They celebrate everyone, in every difference, in every way possible. They put you first and encourage you to do the same for yourself. Glossier embodies a movement of loving all of you and being confident with what you already have. Glossier is here to remind you that no matter what, “you look good.”

Emily Weiss, “Introducing Glossier,” Into the Gloss.

“Stretch Concealer,” Glossier.

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Type A, Type B Or Somewhere In-Between

BY SHELBY SPIEGEL, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT POTTER The next time you are in a public setting, take a moment to stop and look at your surroundings. Recognize the different ways that people dress, the way they interact with others and how they carry themselves as individuals. What do you notice? It is easy to see that everyone has their own mannerisms, way of dress and self-expression that make up their individual personalities.

However, this is just a small part of what makes a person who they are.

Sometimes individuals are placed into categories based on the binary of “Type A” and “Type B” personalities that society has created. However, this binary does not take into account the spectrum of personalities that exist.

In another article published by the Huffington Post, a subpersonality type (A-minus) is presented. “Type A-Minus” is a personality type for those who do not classify themselves as strictly A or B. These people are highly competitive but also need to take a break from time to time. Waiting in line seems to take forever, but they also have no problem laying around doing nothing.

They make it to work on time every day but are late to dinner with their friends every once in awhile.8 For those that fall into this category, they hold characteristics that come from both ends of the spectrum, making it difficult for them to pick one of the standard two personality types.

We have all heard of these stereotypical personalities. In a Huffington Post article, the author explains, “Type A people typically have difficulty relaxing, while Type B people are laid back.”7 Type A personalities tend to be hypersensitive, punctual, competitive and need things to be done right the first time. On the other hand, Type B individuals stop and smell the flowers and go through life at a more relaxed pace. However, what if neither type describes you perfectly? Contrary to popular belief, personalities are often too complex to fit into this binary.

It is important to recognize that personalities are located within a range, and even with the addition of this middle-ground category, no two individuals have the exact same personality. Some may lean more toward Type B, but still have a few A tendencies and vice versa. Because of this, one additional personality type is not enough to cover all varieties.

Type A-minus implies that those who do not fit the extremes automatically associate more directly with A than B. Although this may be due to the fact that Type A is seemingly more favored in society, the word given for those that fall in the middle of the spectrum

1 Abigail Williams, “The Difference Between ‘Type A’ and ‘Type B’ People In One Hilarious Comic,” The Huffington Post, September 15, 2016.

“What if neither type describes you perfectly?

Contrary to popular belief, personalities are often too complex to fit into this binary.” continues to create stifling categories.

It may seem as if society deems the two extremes as the only possibilities, but this is simply not the case. Considering that every individual is unique, it is hard to organize everyone into distinct categories without any discrepancies.

Our society is built up of a wide array of individuals, all holding different traits and talents that make up who they are. It is not surprising that some are more energetic, better at speaking in public or less shy than others, but that is the beauty of these differences.

No two individuals are the same, and at the end of the day, we all have a place on the spectrum.

2 Lindsay Holmes, “11 Signs You’re Actually ‘Type A-Minus,’” The Huffington Post, July 31, 2015.

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P SOPHIA ANDRIES, SAMANTHA KRUSIC, ALEX YUAN, CAMERON SMITH, PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE CREATIVE DIRECTION BY REILLY KOCH AND GEORDON WOLLNER SPECIAL THANK YOU TO FREE PEOPLE AT HILLDALE Fall 2017 37

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