Moda Madison: Fall Print 2018 Issue

FALL PRINT 2018 1

TEAM EDITOR IN CHIEF Eva-Delilah Wieland DEPUTY EDITOR Cassie Hurwitz ART DIRECTOR Lauren Chung WUD PRESIDENT Mills Botham WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE DIRECTOR Fernanda Martinez Rodriguez WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE ADVISOR Jen Farley CREATIVE ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Sadeq Hashemi ON THE COVER Aileen Barretto by Max Goldberg SPECIAL THANKS TO Free People

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Ellie Braun

Madeline Rasmussen Elise Anderson Kasey Busiel

ART CURATOR Channing Smith

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Ariana King Charlotte Muir Clara Huskin Ilana Mack Isabel Calvet Karissa Schumacker Kate Lawless

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Ella Guo CREATIVE DIRECTORS Geordon Wollner Reilly Koch FASHION EDITOR Brooke Komas LIFESTYLE EDITOR Molly Rapozo CULTURE EDITOR Haidee Chu ARTS EDITOR Naomi Gallagher SOCIAL MEDIA AND MARKETING LIAISON Lindsey Young FINANCIAL MANAGER Maggie Brennan WEBMASTER Anna Soboleva EVENT COORDINATOR Ashleigh Perry STAFF WRITERS Gloria Requena Katie Herrick Marin Smith Claudia Prevete

MODELS Amelia Boehning Aileen Barretto Brior Ion Ella Guo Ellen Lee Elli Harri Ethan Hight Gracie Hepworth Isabel Calvert Kayla Caldwell Lance Dismukes Maddie O’Donnell Narik Riak Paul Sohn Rachel Rauth Zoe Weisbrod ART Caroline Daniels Channing Smith Clara Huskin Madeline Rasmussen Nicole Shields PHOTOGRAPHY Cassie Hurwitz Jing Zeng Max Goldberg Nate Mach Sarah Jane Spreng

Through the publishing of our seven student-run journals and magazines, the Publications Committee of the Wisconsin Union Directorate provides a creative outlet for UW-Madison students interested in creating poetry and prose, reporting on music and fashion, or delving into research in science and public policy. We celebrate creativity on campus by providing hands-on experience in publishing, editing, writing, and artmaking.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS FALL 2018

LIFESTYLE

3 20 22 24 35

METALLIC MAGIC

Plucked straight from the Periodic Table, these elemental makeup shades bring more than meets the eye

BUILDING VERSUS BURNING Battling body dysmorphia with dumbbells in hand

THE MISSING ELEMENT

Underrepresentation of women in STEM continues to undermine quests for equality and innovation

IN THEIR ELEMENT

FASHION

6

DIFFERENCE IN THE DETAILS

8

MONDAY TO FRIDAY

A beginner’s guide

ARTS

12

PLASTIC ORGANIC

26

THE STUDIO AS A LOOKING GLASS

27

ELECTRIC ELEMENT

36

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

A visual investigation of our possessions

Artists in their Element and the spaces that cultivate creativity

Neon: a hybrid of the Arts & Sciences

An interview with artist and designer Samuel Williams on the geometric foundations of fashion

Breaking down the season’s fashion essentials with Zara’s Basic Collection

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PART OF THE GROUP

38

CELEBRATION OF AVANT-GARDE FASHION

Understanding what it means to be “in the zone”

MONEY MANAGEMENT

Basics pieces styled six ways

Social aspects of personal style

Rejecting the traditional elements of design

CULTURE

10

PHONE-Y NEWS

34

THE FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS OF VIRGINITY

A take on the ways in which social media is changing news consumption

Understanding how narrow definitions of virginity affect adolescents and young adults

FEATURED

15

IN FRAME

28

WHOLE AGAIN

Simplicity in the city

In part

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

starting point Hello sweet readers, This season, Moda is breaking it down and going back to basics for what we call Element.

As the Moda team was brainstorming content for this issue, we framed an element as simply a piece of a whole. This concept created space for a multitude of article and visual ideas, but also stimulated my curiosity as to what exactly stands behind the magazine I hold so dear to my heart.

In weeks following, while our staff worked fervently on print content, I inquisitively took a trip into the archives for a taste of Moda’s beginnings.

Half a decade later, we are celebrating Moda’s fifth anniversary by writing with the very passions that founded us—and much more.

During my first college semester three years ago, I bravely attended a weekly Moda meeting. Beyond the inspiring visual and written content we see from Moda, I found a community that I came to rely on during my years at UW– Madison. I felt a desire to be a part of the team not because they were all people just like me, but because it was a diverse group of creatives sharing their voices, pushing boundaries and valuing uniqueness! I fell into a network of mentors and found my closest friends within the staff.

This issue, and our publication as a whole, is built off of ambitions, risks and collaboration, stamped by every fingerprint that has turned its beautiful pages in the last five years.

While you read this issue, look past the strong words and charming graphics to the individuals that made it happen and the history we are founded on.

Each writer contributed pieces of themselves or their curiosities, resulting in a sundry and personalized final product. As topics range from making fashion looks your own to virginity to hearing from passionate people working in their zone, there is one thing at their core: authenticity.

I am proud to say that the goal to give creatives and activists an outlet to share this authenticity—what founded our publication in 2013—still shines brightly today!

If you are a curious thing like me, I encourage you to not only absorb every piece of this issue, but also to look through our past issues on www.modamadison.com to explore our cherished history and see how we have grown!

Cheers,

P.S. Happy fifth birthday Moda! We love you!

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LIFESTYLE

magic METALLIC

Plucked straight from the Periodic Table, these elemental makeup shades bring more than meets the eye.

CREATIVE DIRECTION BY CASSIE HURWITZ, DEPUTY EDITOR & ELISE ANDERSEN, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER NARIK RIAK, RACHEL RAUTH & ELLEN LEE PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATE MACH MAKEUP AND HAIR BY OLIVIA STACK FALL PRINT 2018 5

Cu

Au

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Ag

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FASHION

details

DIF F ER ENCE IN THE

BY KASEY BUSIEL, FASHION STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAROLINE DANIELS & SARAH JANE SPRENG Personal style is like a fingerprint—no two are the same. Individuals share unique snapshots of their identities through distinctive fashion choices and visual presentation. While basic pieces are the foundation of most wardrobes, accessories add flair and personality to compose polished, comprehensive looks.

At a large school like the University of Wisconsin–Madison, many crave to make an impression and express originality

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through fashion. To show the versatility of style on campus, we asked students who take risks with their daily attire to style plain black apparel with extras and accessories of their choosing.

Although each outfit started with the same black base, selections of diverse elements created extraordinarily different final looks.

elli

“I would describe my style as edgy.

One piece of clothing that completes an outfit is cool sneakers. Always. My favorite accessory from today [was] my shoes! They are Japanese ASICS!”

ethan “[My style] is definitely streetwearinspired [and] very versatile. [My favorite piece] I am wearing is this jacket. [It] was my mom’s in the 80’s, and I had it stitched up.”

paul maddie “My sense of style ranges a lot because I like to try different things, but I think I always have an athletic/sporty look mixed with something casual.

My jacket is really cool. It is from a company called “Lucky Bastards,” and they are located in LA. [They] are very in line with the modern [sporty] look.”

“It depends on what mood I’m in, but I’d say [my style] is girly and trendy.

Usually, I like to stick to more neutral colors and then [include] pieces that stand out, like my shoes. An awesome jacket always takes [an outfit] to the next level.”

gracie

“I feel like my sense of style has changed a lot over time. [Now], it just depends on the day. I like to be really edgy and girly at the same time. From today’s shoot, I like this hat a lot. I’m excited— I’ve wanted to buy it for so long.”

lance

“I go through various phases [of style] as the year goes on. The phases are usually between a skater, streetwear look and somewhat preppy/grunge. I have always wanted a shirt with Arabic writing on it, and I happened to find this one in Los Angeles at Jay-Z’s pop up shop called “Apartment 4B.”

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FASHION

M O N DAY TO

FR I DAY BUILD YOUR WARDROBE WITH BASIC ELEMENTS FROM ZARA

BY GLORIA REQUENA, FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ELLA GUO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JING ZENG

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Almost 50 years ago, Amancio Ortega founded Zara, disrupting the retail industry like never before.

He went from zero to Zara—starting with a small store in the north of Spain, his brand expanded to more than 2,200 stores in 96 countries around the world. The key to his success? Zara’s supply chain expertise allows ready-to-wear designs to be reimagined, manufactured and distributed within two weeks of the original design walking down the runway, thus embodying the concept of fast fashion.1 Zara’s just-in-time production business model emphasizes maintaining low inventories to sell each collection in around four weeks, making room for the latest trends from recent fashion shows. However, Zara is aware of the importance of investing in wardrobe staples: those essential pieces that never go out of style. As a result, the company offers a year-round Basic Collection, allowing customers to build their daily outfits around a few elemental items.

Avoid that “nothing-to-wear” moment by rooting basic elements at the heart of your wardrobe, allowing statement pieces to shine along the way. Zara’s Fall 2018 Basic Collection, “Monday to Friday,” is inspired by everyday wear updated to include this season’s trends.

TWO PIECE SUIT

Fashion rules are meant to be broken—in good taste. Suits are no longer exclusively for the office. French fashion houses Chanel and Louis Vuitton showcased the seasonal update with a selection of bold skirt suits in their Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collections. Style a plaid dress with a matching blazer for a preppy, polished ensemble.

WHITE TOP

Regardless of changing trends, the basic white top continues to grace runways season after season. Tuck a thin white turtleneck into jeans or a skirt, or layer it under a dress for a casual yet romantic look.

OUTERWEAR

For those who prioritize both comfort and style, capes have arrived just in time to revamp outerwear for the colder months. Go for a practical option by sporting a raincoat cape, inspired by Marine Serre’s designs at Paris Fashion Week.

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CULTURE

PHONE-Y NEWS

HOW THE AGE OF THE INTERNET HAS AFFECTED AMERICAN NEWS CONSUMPTION AND SOCIAL INTERACTION

BY KARISSA SCHUMACKER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH 12 MODA

The year is 1952. You are gathered around the table with your family for the third home cooked meal of the day, and Eisenhower has just been elected President. You, however, are not bothered with such adult matters; you have to rush back outside to finish the pick-up baseball game with your neighborhood buddies. Your mom can’t wait to gab for hours about the election with her neighborhood gals.

Fast forward to 2016. You aren’t bothered

by Trump-era elections. You rush from school to club sports practice to work, and finally end the day heating up food in the microwave, checking Instagram between bites. Your parents are upstairs complaining about your uncle’s latest politically-charged Facebook post. The family is divided because of the Internet, and you can’t even name two families in your neighborhood. The community has moved from the physical world to separate devices—devices which have become the main tool for communication, social interactions and updates on current events. Americans have become increasingly dependent on technology since the 1950s, which has in turn transferred the consumption of news to online, separating and categorizing American citizens.

Before smartphones found their way into nearly every pocket, newspapers were delivered in the morning, followed by nightly news broadcasts. Journalists and producers enjoyed the power of sharing the most important stories by engaging their audience throughout the full length of the paper or broadcast. More importantly, this slow process of news turnover allowed the most prevalent news stories to waft in the limelight as incredulous details slowly rolled in. News consumers had the time to ponder the top stories for days. Today, rather than having two main news contacts each day, Americans have news sources at their fingertips with hundreds of news apps and an unlimited supply of political commentary on the web.

New York Americans

Post points out that check their phones

every 12 minutes on average.1 Heavy smartphone usage is a huge opportunity for an increasing number of news sources to provide the freshest news, moving breaking news on and off what used to be called the front page in less than 48 hours. Another article published by Forbes finds that Americans now pick up their phones with a “30 second to three minute time of interest... in which most news in consumed.”2 This short viewing time pushes news providers to think up grabby taglines and keywords to compete for readers’ attention. Articles that do not live up to the hype of their taglines snowball into the hated category of clickbait. The sensationalized ebb and flow of news sources has negative implications for

“ TODAY, RATHER THAN HAVING TWO MAIN NEWS CONTACTS A DAY, AMERICANS HAVE NEWS SOURCES AT THEIR FINGERTIPS WITH HUNDREDS OF NEWS APPS AND AN UNLIMITED SUPPLY OF POLITICAL COMMENTARY ON THE INTERNET. ” today’s media consumption. With news flashing in and out of the public eye, readers hardly have a chance to form proper opinions before the next groundbreaking news discovery catches their eye.

The rapid turnover rate of news intake accounts for a misinformed public and controversial discussions.

Because of an overwhelming number of news articles, consumers are 58 percent more likely to choose news sources that fit their political views, says LiveScience writer Jeremy 1The New York Post, “Americans Check Their Phones 80 Times a Day: Study”, November 8th, 2017.

2Paul Fletcher, “Finding News in ‘Hidden Minutes’- How Smartphones Have Changed News Consumption”, December 28, 2016.

Hsu.3 Rather than expanding their knowledge on views contrary to their own, Americans are devoting their attention to reinforcing their pre-existing beliefs. This biased news intake reinforced by today’s sprawling media does not craft a more well-rounded and socially aware community; it exacerbates polarization between the far right and the far left. Underdeveloped views are then published on Facebook and Twitter with ease. Twitter feeds find themselves filled with extreme political posts, antagonizing twitter bots and comment threads swimming with dissent.

Social media platforms allow for further sensationalization of news because popular hashtags such as #MeToo and #TakeAKnee can go viral within the matter of hours. Although such platforms give movements like these a foundation to take off from, the void of traditional conversation can also be filled with hate tweets, disagreements fueled by biased news consumption.

Although social media platforms and technology amplify users’ voices, they simultaneously deprive the public from opportunities for civil discussions. Americans today perceive biased news outlets as the norm. According to Gallup data, a whopping 51 percent of American adults can’t even name an unbiased news source. Americans, who once held their flag high in the name of truth, are now settling in the comfort of their own beliefs—even when they are unfounded.

Rather than living out the original American discourse, confirmation biases and customized news feeds on social media platforms together drive one-sided news consumption. Instead of building up a community of diverse beliefs, social media platforms have cornered Americans into competing factions. News has always endeavored to liberate and connect the nation, but the increasing popularity of social media platforms as news sources has begun disassembling and polarizing communities.

3Jeremy Hsu, “People Choose News that Fits their Views,” June 7, 2009.

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ARTS

PLASTIC

ORGANIC AN INVESTIGATION OF OUR POSSESSIONS WORDS AND ART BY MADELINE RASMUSSEN, ARTS STAFF WRITER 14 MODA

How do we define ourselves? Sorting through the many elements of our personhood, it can be difficult to extract an answer. Attempting to explore this idea, it is possible to question people’s relationships to their possessions. This series of multimedia work highlights the different fragments of our domestic spaces.

Each piece intends to accentuate the mystery of bodies in the spaces we feel most comfortable. Our possessions can feel like fragments of our identity, extensions of ourselves.

Through abstraction and symbolism, these works suggest both an alienation and symbiosis with the self and the materiality of our domestic

spaces. The weight of figures in our mismatched and often highly chaotic personal space can feel strange, and we are left to distinguish between what is organic and what is plastic.

Even after peeling through the layers hidden within these works, it can be impossible to tell the difference.

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O F THE G R OU P

PA R T

FASHION

BY ILANA MACK, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR The weather forecast, a particular day’s itinerary or even social circles may impact the way we dress. Fashion allows individuals to define who they are by representing the groups to which they belong. Although seemingly individualistic, personal style is connected to more than one might think.

I always believed that I had a distinct fashion sense—that is until I scrolled through my camera roll to realize I have adjusted my style over the years to fit in with my peers. In high school, I identified as a “tree-hugger.” Soon after joining this circle, my style began to evolve. I replaced layered necklaces with hemp chokers and fur coats with flannels.

But I was not alone in making these changes. Adapting what one wears to

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fit in with social groups is common in adolescents, according to psychologist Carl E Pickhardt. His findings conclude that dressing according to what others wear “becomes more important to keep up with and fit in with friends.”1 This behavior is typical of teenagers; however, beyond the clique-ish halls of high school, groups continue to wear coordinating attire on college campuses and in the working world.

With intensifying influences from social media, it is fitting that many feel increased pressure to belong. Current social platforms allow individuals to react to outfit posts virtually, relay 1 Carl E. Pickhardt, “Puberty and Preoccupation With Personal Appearance,” Psychology Today, September 5, 2016. https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/surviving-your-childs-adolescence/201609/puberty-and-preoccupation-personal-appearance

pictures to group chats and proceed to seek similar styles. This purchasing pattern was not possible 20 years ago. Now, trends spread like wildfire, heightening each fashionista and fashionisto’s desire to align with distinctive styles.

Experimenting with different trends can reflect an individual’s multidimensional personality and also be a subtle way to feel connected to something bigger. Using fashion to satisfy the need to belong can prove to be a fun and overall positive experience, but think twice before jumping on every bandwagon. Try replacing fads with pieces that truly make you feel like yourself. Maintain your stylistic identity as an individual element of your group; doing so might even make you feel complete.

F RA ME FASHION

in

In the disarray of the city, simple settings showcase our silhouettes, as do the elemental fashions that frame our figures. Nostalgia inspires the current classic: warm tones and streamlined designs with a modern interpretation.

AILEEN BARRETTO & AMELIA BOEHNING PHOTOGRAPHED BY JING ZENG CREATIVE DIRECTION BY BROOKE KOMAS, FASHION EDITOR ASSISTANCE FROM THE FASHION TEAM: GLORIA REQUENA & CAROLINE COTTEN SPECIAL THANKS TO FREE PEOPLE

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LIFESTYLE

BUILDING VS

BURNING

BY ISABEL CALVERT, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ISABEL CALVERT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELLA GUO, PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR There’s a strange, unspoken rule in many gyms— women should compliantly drift to one side of the room to sweat it out on the elliptical while men should dominate the weights section. For years, this was a rule I followed.

My body image and I have had a complicated relationship. Since the age of 17 my negative perception of my own body has been like a boyfriend I could never quite dump. Six months ago I saw that I had slipped under 110 pounds again, and for a fairly tall girl, I was underweight and unhappy. I knew something had to give, so I signed up for a women’s weight training course.

Initially, I was terrified that my matchstick arms would break as soon as they made contact with a barbell, but something amazing started to happen.

Week by week, little changes came from short sessions using weights—more positive changes than I ever saw in years of doing solely cardio.

I have never felt as comfortable in my own skin as I do now. Eating is not a crime, cardio is not punishment and the person I was yesterday is my only competition. If you are just beginning a fitness journey or need a point of guidance in the gym, I have a few words of advice for taking that initial step into the weight room.

To begin, there are a few key exercises in weight training, known as compound movements.

Deadlifts, squats, hip thrusts and lunges all involve multiple muscles or muscle groups at the same time, hence the name compound.

If you are looking for muscular growth, doing a self-defined number of repetitions of at least one compound movement is the best way to achieve this goal. Form is crucial in weight training, so take the time to research exactly how your body should move through each exercise.

Listening to your body is an important part of

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weight training. If something hurts that is not in the muscle group you are targeting, it is probably time to check your form for mistakes. Lifting heavier weights comes with time, but mastering technique is always essential to keep workouts safe and effective.

Besides form and movement, nutrition is another element of weight training. To put it simply, if you want to gain muscle you need to be in a calorie surplus—consuming more calories than you burn.

This mindset can be difficult to get used to because in order to be healthier, people are constantly focused on eating less. However, your body needs energy to build muscle, and every food group can help this—including protein and the frequently demonized carbohydrates.

Aside from weight training, there are plenty of alternative workouts that also have building benefits. If you begin at the gym and find that weight training fills you with the same dread as a treadmill does for me, don’t panic. There are plenty of other anxiety-busting activities to try.

Pilates and boxing are great ways to incorporate strength training into your routine, working your core in particular. Playing team sports or hiking in the great outdoors are just a few other ways to move your body while giving your mind time to decompress.

Finally, remember that you are working with your own body, and the only person it needs to please is you. The scale is not the most accurate representation of progress. Not only does muscle weigh more than fat, but your weight does not define who you are and how happy you deserve to be. I rarely step on it now, if ever.

Listen to your body, treat it well and enjoy the process of watching it change in a way that is unique to you.

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LIFESTYLE

TH E

MI SSI N G EL E M E N T UNDERREPRESENTATION OF WOMEN IN STEM CONTINUES TO UNDERMINE QUESTS FOR EQUALITY AND INNOVATION

BY KATE LAWLESS, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATION BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR

The labs in which the future of our country is created and changed are lacking a key element: women. In the United States,1 science, technology, engineering and math (STEM) are some of the fastest growing, lucrative and respected fields.

Females comprise more than half of the world’s population and occupy nearly 50 percent of jobs in the United States. For the first time, women of all socioeconomic levels have more college degrees than their male counterparts.2 Despite the progress in women’s college education and careers, this shift towards equality is not reflected in the STEM field.

Women still occupy less than 25 percent of STEM jobs in the United States.3 The reason women are underrepresented in STEM can be David N. Beede et al. “Women in STEM: A Gender Gap to Innovation,” SSRN Electronic Journal, August 2011. doi:10.2139/ssrn.1964782.

2 Alana Semuels, “Poor Girls Are Leaving Their Brothers Behind,” The Atlantic, November 27, 2017, accessed October 12, 2018. https://www. theatlantic.com/business/archive/2017/11/gender-education-gap/546677/.

3 Ibia 1

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explained through historical context.

Philosophers, political scientists and medical professionals were influenced by the teachings of men such as Aristotle, who first concluded that “the woman is failed man,” and St. Thomas Aquinas, who considered womankind to be “a defective creature.”4 During the Middle Ages, women were often referred to as “the cause” instead of “the patient” by male doctors.5 Because of this mentality, women were denied the opportunity to contribute to scientific fields. Most of society now knows that sexism has no credible biological basis, but STEM academic programs and workplaces still have conventions that reflect these outdated ideas.

Women today, especially women of color, are stereotyped as less skilled at math and science as a result of the aforementioned attitudes towards Cecilia Tasca et al. “Women and Hysteria In the History Of Mental Health,” Clinical Practice and Epidemiology in Mental Health, October 2012, accessed October 12, 2018. doi:10.2174/17450179 01208010110.

5 Ibid 4

women. Studies have shown that these stereotypes become a sort of self-fulfilling prophecy.6 It was found that women who were reminded of their gender before a math or science test received on average a 33 percent lower test grade than women who were not reminded of their gender.7 One way to combat this is having more female representation in academic settings. Women are more likely to participate in discussions and earn better grades if they have a female instructor, especially if it is during their first year of instruction in STEM8. When women see that they can succeed in traditionally “masculine” fields, they are more Jenessa R. Shapiro and Amy M. Williams, “The Role of Stereotype Threats in Undermining Girls’ and Women’s Performance and Interest in STEM Fields,” SpringerLink, July 31, 2011, accessed October 12, 2018. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11199-011-0051-0.

7 Ibid 8 Joshua Price, “The Effect of Instructor Race and Gender on Student Persistence in STEM Fields,” Economics of Education Review 29, no. 6 (2010): 901-10. doi:10.1016/j.econedurev.2010.07.009.

6

likely to persist in challenging academic or career settings.9 There is currently a shortage of these female instructors and mentors because the majority of STEM workplaces do not have the flexibility needed by adult women who want to work and have children.

Sixty percent of women who took time off work for childbirth reported that their STEM careers did not offer part-time or flexi-time to care for their children and did not pay enough to cover the cost of childcare. Additionally, the women did not feel supported after returning from maternity leave10. The majority of women still do not have access to paid leave or do not have “protected leave.”11 The metaphor for this exodus of women is called the STEM pipeline Ibid “Women in STEM: Are You in or Out? Survey Overview,” The Women’s Engineering Society, October 2014, accessed October 12, 2018. https://www.wes.org.uk/content/women-stemare-you-or-out-survey-results.

11 Lawrence M. Berger and Jane Waldfogel, “Maternity Leave and the Employment of New Mothers in the United States,” SpringerLink.

9

10

leak. As women go along the linear path of STEM academia and careers, many leave or “leak from the pipeline” as they are influenced by negative stereotypes or experience difficulty in balancing work and motherhood.12 Fortunately, the world is recognizing the structural and implicit biases that women in STEM face and is making an effort to combat them.13 The #MeToo movement is exposing the harassment many women face in the workplace and holding their oppressors responsible for these sexist and damaging behaviors.

At the elementary through the graduate level, academia is creating and funding organizations that empower and educate women who love STEM. In particular, UW–Madison has grown its number of female-specific student Jacob Clark Blickenstaff, “Women and Science Careers: Leaky Pipeline or Gender Filter?”

Gender and Education 17, no. 4 (2005): 369-86. doi:10.1080/09540250500145072.

13 Mary K. Feeney, “Future - Why More Women Don’t Win Nobel Prizes in Science,” BBC, October 08, 2018, accessed October 12, 2018. http:// www.bbc.com/future/story/20181008-why-dontmore-women-dont-win-nobel-prizes-in-science.

groups, such as Girls Who Code and the Society of Women Engineers. 14 We now know that gender diversity and equality are essential elements to maximize productivity and innovation.

Having multiple viewpoints and experiences from both men and women is one of the essential elements of successful problemsolving.15 Businesses that have gender diversity generate more revenue and allow companies to connect with a wider range of clients and patients16.

STEM companies are realizing these benefits and slowly but surely correcting their errors. The world of STEM is changing to give women equal opportunities to share their talents and in turn, allow society to benefit from their incredible drive, intellect and creativity.

12

“Women In Engineering UW Madison | Diversity and Inclusion,” College of Engineering - University of Wisconsin-Madison, accessed October 12, 2018. https://www.engr.wisc.edu/about/diversity-women-engineering/.

15 Ibid 16 Ibid 14

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LIFESTYLE

I N TH EI R ELEMEN T

BY KATIE HERRICK, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLE GOLOWNIA & MOLLY JACOBS

Cambridge Dictionary defines “being in your element” as being “happy because you are doing what you like or can do best.”1 That being said, being in your element has a different meaning for each and every person. We all have different passions, interests and goals that affect what emotions we feel when we are “in our element.”

Whether your interests lie in politics, fitness or art, your zone of intention, focus and bliss will look different.

Moda asked four people what emotions they felt in their zone and how those emotions affected them.

“Being in my element is hard to put into words, but it is such a clear feeling. My element is a place where I 1“Be In Your Element,” Cambridge Dictionary. https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/ english/be-in-your-element

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feel like I am putting 100 percent of my energy into a task and have no intent on stopping.” Maddie Harty, senior at UW–Madison and Rec Sports Group Fitness Instructor says, “I feel like a force of movement. In my element, I don’t have to think about what’s next; what’s here is now and I am moving through it all with full power and without doubt.”

As Kennedy Lee, junior at UW–Madison and full-time Legislative Assistant in the Wisconsin State Assembly tells Moda, “Being in my element means nobody can bring me down. I’m a really sensitive person, which I’ve learned is not an easy trait to have in politics. I take things very personally.

But when I’m in my element, I don’t let these things bother me. I’m able to remind myself that I am strong and that I am doing my best. Nobody can

stop me. Exhilarating doesn’t even begin to describe it.”

Laurel Noack, senior at UW–Madison and Digital Messaging Intern at Run the World Digital says, “Being in my element is exhilarating. I feel full of life when I feel in my element. After the moment is over it is almost an out of body experience as the worry and happiness sets in.”

“You ask yourself, ‘Did I do okay?

Did what I say make sense?’ The worry fades as you grow confident in yourself and your moment, and is replaced by happiness—but a tiny bit [of worry] will always linger.”

Each person was asked to describe being in their element in one or two words, each word representing a similar emotion. Fearless and

unstoppable. Fierce. Exhilarating.

Focus and contentment.

“I think that in a team-like setting, being in your element can be a point of unification for the group. In accomplishing a certain goal together, everyone digs deep to find their own element, but everyone moves as one within their unique elements to work together,” Harty tells Moda.

“In other cases, I think being in your element is completely different person-to-person. The feeling of an element is different for each person, specific to each task, and may not even be replicable time and time again.”

According to Lee, “Being in your element is different for each and every person. Some people thrive in

large groups and others love one-onone interactions. The classroom may be an element for one person while the dance floor is for another.”

“I think everyone’s experiences register on a wildly diverse spectrum,” says Andrea Oleniczak, a second year MFA Candidate at UW–Madison studying glass and neon, “which is why we don’t do the same activities nor have the same interests.”

“I think the most important thing is that we all soul search and find our true element. I used to compare myself in every situation to all of the people around me. I realized that I really can’t do science experiments or solve math problems—that just isn’t my element.

However, other people thrive in a lab coat because that is where their passion lies. When we realize that

every person has a different element, I think we become more comfortable with ourselves and value ourselves more for all that we are instead of all that we are not.”

Whether your interests lie in glassblowing, registering people to vote, helping others achieve equality and democracy, getting an endorphin rush from physical activity or something completely different, we can all appreciate the things that happen when we do what truly speaks to us.

When we are in our element, we see positive change affected; art, relationships, clothing and music made; and our personal and global world changed. We can all appreciate each other—and ourselves—a lot more when we realize the benefits of being in our element.

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ARTS

THE STUDIO AS A LOOKING GLASS

BY NAOMI GALLAGHER, ARTS EDITOR EMMA SANTOIANNI PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELLA GUO I recently stumbled upon a photograph of Francis Bacon’s London studio, the room from which his hundreds of grippingly eerie portraits were born.

The damp, grey space is littered with newspapers, violent multicolored splatters and lopsided piles of books, leaving no floor exposed; the walls seem to function as his paint palette.

Dirty brushes poke out of a dozen different paint cans in various nooks within this little cave of creation, as toppled cardboard boxes press against them.

I could not help but wonder how he painted, let alone functioned, in this mayhem. The photograph challenged my previous assumptions of how an artist’s studio should be, and I began to consider the importance and impact that an artist’s space has on one’s work.

There are many factors that cultivate inspiration in artists. It could be order or the lack thereof, complete silence or the clamour of a city beneath them.

But, is a designated studio space vital to an artist’s process? These factors are highly subjective, so I spoke with Madison-based painter, illustrator and woodworker Emma Santoianni about how she thrives creatively.

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Santoianni has a studio in the Art Lofts on the UW–Madison campus where she is pictured next to her current worksin-progress. Regarding her studio, she emphasizes the importance of this space’s function over its form: “the use of my studio as a place and a tool is much more important to me than its aesthetic qualities; I don’t care what it looks like as long as it is available to me to work in.”

Though she has access to this space, Santoianni expresses that she is not bound to her studio, preferring to make the world her workplace. She admits, “I don’t know that I’m especially inspired to create by a particular studio atmosphere. I actually do most of my creative work in public, particularly in busy places with lots of people…I’d say that a bustling environment to me feels most creative in terms of producing a large number of images.”

Her mobile work style contrasts with the reclusive demeanor of Bacon’s studio, the confines in which his entire world seemed to reside. Furthermore, drawing inspiration from an array of environments can have the effect of versatility in one’s work.

Visual

artist,

photographer

and

UW–Madison faculty member Faisal Abdu’allah says, “we are informed about the gallery space but never involved with it as being an extension of the artist’s studio—a haven that purifies emotions through the evocation of fear, stimulation of thought and interaction.” This “extension” between gallery and studio that an audience cannot breach is perhaps why it is such a treat to be given a glimpse into the workspace of an artist. To see an artist’s space is to be granted a window into their process of creation, the very cradle of their work.

And just as the atmospheres in which we grow have enduring effects upon who we become, so do the spaces in which art comes to fruition.

So through this lens, perhaps the interrelation between Bacon’s studio and his paintings becomes clearer.

Disorder, disfigurement, chaos—his art mimics his workspace through the unsettling feelings that it inspires. In this light, the mutual turmoil of his studio and work may suggest something crucial about the artist’s state of mind.

As the layers of creation and inspiration are unveiled, one may find that these layers trace the art to the studio, and the studio to the psyche.

ARTS

WRITTEN & ILLUSTRATED BY CLARA HUSKIN, CONTRIBUTING WRITER

I stand five feet away from a vibrant blue blur, watching the words “Dilly Dilly” blink in my face. Yes, that’s Dilly Dilly in neon sign form. In a dingy restaurant which reaches just feet above a beautiful lake, the not-soshy cyan holds my attention as it creeps through the air, illuminating the nearby water. Neon not only has the power to captivate the attention of curious girls like me, but is also a unique hybrid of the arts and sciences.

Neon is a member of the noble gas family, which can only be obtained by fractional distillation of air. As complicated as that sounds, it only follows that these aesthetically simple neon signs are just as complex to create. The type of gas used in a neon sign determines the color of the light, with Neon gas emitting a red light and Argon gas emitting blue. When one parlays those hues with coloredglass tubes layered with fluorescent powders, the product is brazen purple, pink, cyan or emerald.

Beyond Neon’s commercial popularity in advertising lies a separate domain of Neon art. The piercing hues of neon are a special sort of eye candy that have entrancing qualities. Scott Shapiro, a Madison-based visual artist, has been designing vibrant, sculptural neon installations for 25 years. Shapiro aims for pieces “that inspire other people and make them want to create.”

According to Morgan Miller, owner of Rewind Décor on Madison’s beloved and eclectic Williamson Street, Shapiro’s work “is nonrepresentational and minimalistic, which allows that energy to be as it is: an emotional experience.”

When beginning his Neon projects, Shapiro designs his own glass tubes from scratch. “I feel like an alchemist,” he explains.

“I basically take dust and make it into a light bulb.”

Shapiro also acknowledges the complexity behind Neon.

“Electricity, something modern, and glass, something ancient, is combined to make something new— something we call art.”

Starting with small powders to create a high-functioning electrical current is no small feat. Despite this daunting task, the Neon scene in Madison continues to grow, proving to be a testament to the interrelation of chemistry and artistic beauty.

And that is precisely the spirit of neon. Whether admired through the windows of a sleepy diner or on the walls of a gallery, neon remains a staple of our culture and an electric beauty celebrated by many.

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CREATIVE

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ZOEY WEISBROD & KAYLA CALDWELL PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAX GOLDBERG CREATIVE DIRECTION: REILLY KOCH & GEORDON WOLLNER ASSISTANCE FROM THE CREATIVE TEAM: JANEY SHETH, MARIA DAYNEKO, KATIE HERRICK & RACHEL COHEN MODEL COORDINATOR: ANGIE NGUYEN

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CULTURE

V I R GI N I TY: FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS IN A CULTURAL CONTEXT

BY ARIANA KING, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY CASSIE HURWITZ

Losing one’s virginity seems to represent a pinnacle of the comingof-age experience. Yet, at the depths of this quest to “become an adult,” certain cultural attitudes and beliefs about virginity have negative consequences for young adults or are just plain old hurtful.

First and foremost, the “need” to lose one’s virginity is often exacerbated by social pressure and used as a means to increase social status. In fact, teens’ sexual behavior is influenced by their perception of peers—how much sex others around them are having, what their peers think of classmates who have sex and how much pressure they think others place on them to become sexually active.1 This is harmful because it causes young adults to use sex and virginity as a way of climbing the social ladder, ; some are becoming sexually active for reasons they themselves do not believe in.

Stress on a person’s virginity also has negative social consequences because it perpetuates sexism through the slut/stud dichotomy. Young women who start having sex earlier than their peers are viewed as promiscuous, while sexually active young men are considered cooler.

In a Q&A with Scarleteen, a sex education website, author Hanne Blank asserts that virginity is often used to determine a woman’s worth.

In extreme cases, she says this leads to calamities like honor killings which Susan Scutti, “Peer Pressure, Sex, And Your Teen: Kids Are More Likely To Have Sex When They Think Everyone Else Is Doing It,” Medical Daily, September 12, 2014, accessed October 10, 2018.

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a woman who has participated in sexual behavior before marriage, or is even suspected of it, is put to death by her family members. On the other hand, Blanne remarks that “men have simply never been held to the same standards of sexual behavior that women have” and gain social status from being sexual.2

when a doctor asks them whether they are sexually active: If you’ve only participated in oral sex, is that something relevant to share with a healthcare provider? Furthermore, if they haven’t had any form of sex recently, but have in the past, they might be unsure what response to give in the current moment.

Clearly, overemphasis on losing one’s virginity can ostracize and shame those who choose to abstain. The inconsistency in defining virginity creates confusion and negates various sexualities and preferences. According to a 2007 study from the Preventative Research Center, losing one’s virginity is usually understood by adolescents as having vaginal intercourse.3 This is significant because teen years are when many ideas towards sex are developed. he study also found that adolescents debate over whether other sexual acts, such as anal or oral sex, signify losing one’s virginity as well. The uncertainty over what virginity means is problematic, and it reflects young adult’s misconception about what “real sex” is.

Heather Corinna, a leader in sexual education for young adults, explains that using virginity, especially if only defined as certain kinds of sex, to determine if they will share their sexual history with health providers is precarious.4 She asserts that virginity is not an important measure of our physical or emotional health.

Overemphasis on virginity as only vaginal intercourse can lead teens to ignore or dismiss other sexual acts, which they may not discuss with their health providers. Many people may not know what answer to give Heather Corinna, “20 Questions About Virginity: Scarleteen Interviews Hanne Blank,” Scarleteen, February 19, 2016, accessed October 10, 2018.

2

Melina M. Bersamin et al., “Defining Virginity and Abstinence: Adolescents’ Interpretations of Sexual Behaviors,” Journal of Adolescent Health 41, no. 2 (2007): 182-188.

3

Given the aforementioned examples, it is clear that the fundamental elements and cultural meanings we give to virginity negatively affect young adults’ mental, emotional and physical health. To overcome this emphasis on virginity and the cultural “morality” behind it, we need to focus education on the whole spectrum of sexuality and what it means to be a healthy sexual being.

4

“The Scarleteen Staff & Volunteers,” Scarleteen, September 17, 2018, accessed October 10, 2018.

LIFESTYLE

M ONE Y M A NAG EM ENT: A BEGINNER’S GUIDE

BY CHARLOTTE MUIR, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY NICOLE SHIELDS Before heading to campus this fall, I checked my dusty bank account to find a grand total of $20. Realizing this, I knew I would have to crack down on spending and save big. After much research, I developed a simple system for achievable budgeting. By using this system, you too can shine up your savings.

START WITH A GOAL

We all need a little motivation from time to time, so start by setting some savings goals. It is beneficial to have one to three immediate goals and one for the future.

Immediate goals are smaller and achievable in a short time frame—like skipping one trip to Starbucks each week. Future goals are long-term, bigger projects—a vacation or house deposit. For these, it can be handy to have some mini-goals to keep you motivated and on track, like quarter or halfway goals.

DO YOUR RESEARCH

Taking some time to understand your spending habits helps you get realistic—something often missed in first-time budgets.

A quick search on Google or the App Store will bring up hundreds of spending trackers. Apps like Mint can be a great place to start. After connecting your bank account, the software will split up your spending into categories and summarize the information in handy charts.

If you prefer cash over card, go for the manual route. Ask for receipts

and write down purchases in a little book.

This process doesn’t have to be tedious and can be a great excuse for new stationery.

A quick Google search for “expense bullet journal” will surely bring some aesthetic inspiration.

TURN YOUR RESEARCH INTO A REALITY

Take the research you’ve done using your savings journal or spending app and put it to use. Break up your spending habits and transactions into weekly, bi-weekly or monthly chunks—whichever suits you best.

First, look at how much your necessities are—rent, bills, groceries, etc. Write them down and total them to calculate your base.

Once you have your base, check your lifestyle spending—eating out, grabbing a drink, etc.—and find what you can sacrifice. Again, write them down and total them.

Find an approximate amount for miscellaneous or one-time expenses, such as appointments, a winter coat or donations. You can get a grasp of this amount from a few months of tracking your spending, but you may need to tweak it a bit. Add this to your base and lifestyle expenses to create your total budget.

Now, it’s time for a buffer—money set aside to alleviate the panic from going over your budgeted amount. A good

rule of thumb for calculating your buffer is a third of your budget. Your pay, minus your budget and buffer amount, is your projected savings.

SEPARATE YOUR FUNDS

To make your saving process easier, it is helpful to split earnings into two accounts—checking and savings.

Step One: Get paid straight into your savings account.

Step Two: Transfer your budget and buffer to a checking account.

If it suits you, leave your buffer in your savings and aim not to touch it, letting it accumulate and act as a safety net for unpredicted expenses. At the same time, don’t worry if you’re having a bad week and end up spending a bit of your buffer money on a few too many margaritas and tacos.

If you are looking to be your best, money-saving self, try following this advice. As things change, come back to the outlined steps and tweak your budget. Re-evaluate your goals, track your spending and update your budget.

Happy saving!

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ARTS

UNDER CONSTRUCTION An Interview with Artist & Designer Samuel William

BY MARIN SMITH, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT BRION ION PHOTOGRAPHED BY FONG LIAN LIM Moda sat down with Samuel William, a designer and artist at UW–Madison, to talk about the influences behind and creation of his recently debuted collection titled ‘Under Construction.’

This collection blends the highly visible, utilitarian aspects of traditional construction clothing with modern streetwear to create a unique fashion line rooted in contemporary art. From Nascar-printed rhinestone shirts to a waterproof anorak, the embodiment of repurposed, redesigned construction elements create a multidimensional collection.

suit, but fashion was something I’d always been interested in. So, like most things I do, I just went for it.

I changed majors and shifted my focus to fashion design.

MM: Can you describe your muses and inspirations for this collection?

Moda Magazine: What is your artistic background?

Samuel William: Well, it all began at the end of my sophomore year here at Madison. I took a class on the history of contemporary art and became very interested in the field. With an interest in fashion already intact, the parallels between today’s fashion and contemporary art became apparent. After that semester, I transferred into the School of Human Ecology to study Textile and Fashion Design.

Fashion Design is my major, however I consider myself a contemporary artist working in the medium of clothing.

MM: Do you have much previous experience in fashion/design? If so, what did that look like? If not, what made you decide to pursue it here at Madison?

SW: I didn’t have any fashion or design experience prior to a year ago. I always had a unique sense of style but that was the extent of my “knowledge.”

My sophomore year I was living in a creative environment, surrounded by people that inspired me to design.

The arts had never been my strong

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SW: This past summer I was working construction in Milwaukee, and that’s where the idea for the collection initially manifested. It’s a pretty unconventional place to find muses, but I began to take account of certain aspects of the environment I was working in and formulate a vision for a collection. My biggest inspirations came from the clothing I wore and saw on a daily basis. I saw a lot of highly functional clothing,

made for construction specifically. There was something raw and gritty about it that inspired me. The other major muse was the notion of high visibility, as seen in the reflective parts of construction gear. Clothing utilizing 3M bands, bright oranges and yellows that signify a working person often isn’t seen outside of the workforce. I wanted to take the everyday uniform out of its environment and put a fashion-forward, artistic twist on it.

MM: In what direct ways did these inspirations manifest in your work?

SW: The functionality aspect of the work clothes made its way into the collection through the denim that is being released. Inspired by carpenter pants, with a hammer hold and phone pocket, I made an unconventional pair of pants by taking away the common husky silhouette that typically accompanies them and tailoring them.

The incorporation of the 3M bands, or highvisibility stripes, became a major feature.

The presence of the 3M bands shows up in the sweatpants as well as the anorak in a way that I believe adheres to both the functionality of construction wear while still remaining fashionable.

MM: You said you drew inspiration from contemporary art. Can you elaborate on that?

SW: There was no single piece of art that inspired my collection.

However, I used the common tactic of reappropriation seen in contemporary art. I found vintage Nascar shirts and repurposed them, changing them slightly by adding rhinestones. To a certain extent that’s what all of contemporary art is. It exploits the fact that everything today is an image of an image of another image.

Everything is repurposed, taken, used again in a slightly different fashion, and that’s what I did with the Nascar T-shirts.

MM: Can you describe the timeline of the collection?

When did you start putting the ideas together and how long has it been in the works?

SW: The ideas began in May when I started working as a carpenter. My business partner, Sean Kelly, had previously started a collection titled ‘Under Construction,’ but hadn’t revisited the concept in a few years. The ideas I was generating complemented his

original collection’s theme. From there, I came to him with the idea and we began brainstorming a redeveloped construction-themed line over the next three months.

MM: What materials are used in this collection?

SW: The collection consists of denim, sweats and a polyester rain jacket, as well as personalized Nascar T-shirts.

There are two colorways of denim pants which feature an extra two inches added to the bottom for an even stack. There is also a black highvisibility anorak that is waterproof and made of a polyester blend that pairs nicely with the denim as well as the high-visibility sweatpants. These sweatpants are also offered in two colorways, black and white, with a zip lock feature at the ankle and waist.

Wrapping up the collection is the original ‘Under Construction’ hoodie, which was revised in a colorway consistent with the new collection.

MM: What does your work aim to say?

SW: I consider this my debut collection, so I view it as a testament to my ability to design.

To take inspiration from an unusual environment and formulate an entire collection is something I’m proud of.

MM: How has this collection impacted your future plans?

SW: This collection has motivated me and given me confidence to pursue a legitimate business in the fashion industry. While developing this collection, I was also taking the proper steps to start a brand name. I started an LLC and also trademarked the name I plan to design under for the foreseeable future—Samuel William.

MM: Do you have any advice for other student artists trying to grow their work or make a name for themselves?

SW: Be yourself, sister.

Thank you to Samuel William for his time and willingness to share about his creative experience. For more information, follow @samuelwilliam on Instagram.

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FASHION THE MET

C ELEBRAT I O N O F AVANT- GARDE FAS HI O N THROW THE BASIC ELEMENTS OF DESIGN OUT THE WINDOW

BY CLAUDIA PREVETE, FASHION NEWS CORRESPONDENT “Avant-garde” is a French word meaning “vanguard,” a group of people on the cutting edge of progress. It originated as a military term to describe the group of soldiers who lead the pack. Contextually dissonant but with similar underlying sentiments, avant-garde fashion is a unique adoption of this concept.

When used to describe garments themselves or runway shows alike, avant-garde carries a notion of disregarding norms and straying from the basic, mainstream elements of design.

When considering the history of avant-garde design, it is crucial to include moments when designers threw traditional expectations out the window in favor of those which looked ahead of their time. Specifically, as The Cut points out, “Andre Courreges had his feet firmly planted towards the future,”1 highlighting his work in the 60s as pioneering for avantgarde fashion. The French designer Véronique Hyland, “A Look Back at André Courrèges’s Space-Age Style,” The Cut, January 8, 2016.

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combined his background in civil engineering with design skills to create the “space look,” or clothes made of plastic and mirrored fabrics.

These early designs were progressive for their time, but still echoed in the wardrobes of the everyday woman.

Courreges became so popular that he dressed everyone from Nancy Reagan to Audrey Hepburn.2 As it arose in the 60s, avant-garde was perhaps a form of rebellion against the 1950s traditionalism which swept the United States.

Today, avant-garde looks ahead by including revolutionary elements while simultaneously embracing the now. W Magazine points to “Feminist Avant-garde” as a celebration of “the courage and experimentation of women who were denied their place in history,”3 citing an art exhibition in Vienna that highlights feminist avant-garde demonstrations of dress as an example.

Ibid 3 Janelle Zara, “This Origin Story of Feminist Art Comes with a Big Asterisk,” W Magazine, July 26, 2017.

2

Commes des Garçons is another contemporary demonstration of avantgarde in that the brand diverges from conventionally attractive elements of fashionable clothing.4 The 2017 Met Gala and Metropolitan Museum of Art Exhibition, “Art of the In-Between,” captured this spirit as well. The Met referred to designer Rei Kawakubo of the line as experimenting in “inbetweenness—the space between boundaries.”5 Commes des Garçons’ style of avant-garde deals with circumventing traditionalism and the dual concepts of “design/not design” and “fashion/anti-fashion,” namely.

Transcending any singular historical context, avant-garde fashion and its multifacetedness is not likely to cease. Given avant-garde designers’ abilities to look ahead, the importance of ditching traditional elements emphasizes fashion’s ability portray the world in a unique way.

Jake Silbert, “Modern Unconventionalism: the New Generation of Post-Comme Avant-Garde,” Dry Clean Only, July 26, 2017.

5 “Rei Kawakubo/Comme de Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” The Met Museum.

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