The Power of Pucci

AN HOMAGE TO THE PRINCE OF PRINTS

Fashion Editorial Team Written by Erin Galioto, Graphic by Riya Shah, Contributing Graphic Artist T hroughout history, there has been an undeniable connection between politics and fashion. Following the end of WWI, the roaring ‘20s saw a transformative period of rapid economic growth and social change. It can not be remembered without the glitz and glamor of the flapper dresses, long pearl necklaces and cloche hats that accompanied it, showcasing the need for levity and freedom.

The progressive ‘60s marked another turning point for social change following a devastating war. Women’s liberation movements like the fight for equality in the workplace and the introduction of oral contraceptives led to revolutionized fashion as well. Shorter hemlines, above-the-knee silhouettes and weightless fabrics replaced rigidly-structured and restrictive garments such as corsets and petticoats.1

In today’s post-lockdown world, we are met with yet another cultural and social shift that has serious indications for the trajectory of fashion. As we see a sort of renaissance against regulations and restrictions, minimalism is taking a backseat to loud, shameless expression and experimentation. Following this emphasis on freedom and individuality, bold, kaleidoscopic prints and rhythmic, free-flowing fabrics—as seen in the fabulous designs of Emilio Pucci—are becoming coveted pieces yet again.

Emilio Pucci became a designer somewhat accidentally. Otherwise known as Marchese Pucci di Barsento, Pucci was born in 1914 into an important aristocratic family who resided and worked within the 13th century Pucci Palazzo in Florentine.2 From a young age, he was exposed to worldly destinations and the luxurious Italian jetset lifestyle. He studied politics at Reed College in the United States and was heavily involved in sports such as skiing and swimming. In fact, his first designs were for the Reed College cross-country ski team.3

While vacationing in the Swiss Alps in 1947, some skiwear he had designed for a friend caught the eye (and lens) of a photographer working for Harper’s Bazaar. When the editor saw the photos, she was instantly enamored and hired Pucci to design a collection of skiwear for a feature in the magazine.4 Pucci continued to experiment with both winter and summer resort wear. He was the first to produce a onepiece ski suit, creating his first swimwear line in 1949 and then expanding to daywear, after which he opened his first boutique in Capri in 1950.5

Pucci was no coward with color. He worked with chemists to produce vibrant hues that had never been seen in garments before. Sometimes using 16 colors in a single pattern, the brilliant designer described his color matching process like arranging flowers in a bouquet.6 The designs appeared at the end of the long, gloomy war and were bright, youthful and refreshing. Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus once said, “Americans were so color-starved after the war, viewing his work for the first time was like seeing fireworks.”7

1 Bianca Zanotti, “Taking Flight: Emilio Pucci and His Influence on Class and the Jet Age,” Ryerson Fashion Research Collection, Nov. 20, 2020. 2 Clair Watson, “How Fashion Icon Emilio Pucci Became the Prince of Psychedelic Prints,” 1st Dibs, Oct. 6, 2019. 3 Howard McGaw Smyth, “The Ciano Papers: Rose Garden,” Central Intelligence Agency, 1969. 4 Clair Watson, “How Fashion Icon Emilio Pucci Became the Prince of Psychedelic Prints,” 1st Dibs, Oct. 6, 2019. 5 Aemilia Madden, “The Grassroots Revival of Emilio Pucci,” Fashionista, March 29, 2022. 6 “Emilio Pucci - Designer Biography - Videofashion Vault,” Videofashion, May 27, 2010. 7 Bianca Zanotti, “Taking Flight: Emilio Pucci and his Influence on Class in the Jet Age,” Ryerson Fashion Research Collection, Nov. 20, 2020.

Pucci’s designs really took off in the ‘60s after being embraced by style icons like Marilyn Monroe, Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Grace of Morocco.8

Another unique appeal of Pucci garments was the unprecedented use of movement and free-flowing lines. Pucci’s use of innovative textiles like silk jersey allowed for clothing that was weightless and wrinkle-free.9 He drew inspiration from the organic forms and colors around him: Sicilian mosaics, the Mediterranean Sea’s bright blue color and waves, Bali Batiks and African motifs.10 He once said, “My prints are ornamental designs worked in continuous motion; however they are placed, there is rhythm.”11

Pucci’s unique prints feature lines that follow the natural curves of the body, earning him the title of the “Prince of Prints” by the International Fashion Press.12 “The base of his inspiration has always been the woman’s body, and the woman’s body for him is beautiful if it moves,” his daughter Laudomia once said.13

Pucci introduced designs that had all the life and explosive color of couture without the impracticality. After WWII, commercial travel for pleasure increased and was gradually becoming more accessible. Fashion and travel became synonymous and the Pucci brand embodied the indulgent and luxurious jet set lifestyle.

“Fragile-looking but indestructible, chic and sexy, it was the capsule wardrobe for the mobile woman.”14 Pucci’s free-moving stretch fabrics were designed for sashaying along the beach or for a belladonna carefully stepping off her private jet in large sunglasses as the scarf coddling her perfectly styled hair dances effortlessly in the wind. The aesthetic can be described as “rich hippie”—casual aesthetics and aristocratic elegance, luxury in harmony with fun.

From the ‘60s to the ‘90s, everyone wanted a piece of Pucci. Braniff Airlines famously hired him to design mod stewardess uniforms that fully embraced retrofuturism. The uniforms featured “rain domes” that emulated astronaut helmets which flight attendants wore when crossing between terminals to keep every strand of hair in their up-dos in place. The campaign was so popular that Mattel’s Barbie even released a set of cabin crew dolls inspired by the collaboration.15

Also among Pucci’s rich portfolio was his emblem for the Apollo XV Space Mission, the interior of a Ford Lincoln Continental Mark IV and a 300-foot hand-painted sail for Wally Yachts.16 Even when designing porcelain tableware for Rosenthal, Pucci continued to play with movement. According to his daughter Laudomia, he would wrap his signature scarf around the ceramics to experiment and visualize movement.17

8 “The Story behind Pucci’s Prints,” Suzanne Lovell Inc, Jan. 30, 2020. 9 Bianca Zanotti, “Taking Flight: Emilio Pucci and his Influence on Class in the Jet Age,” Ryerson Fashion Research Collection, Nov. 20, 2020. 10 Lara Mansour, “Prince Of Prints: The History Of Emilio Pucci,” A&E Magazine, Feb. 22, 2018. 11 Clair Watson, “How Fashion Icon Emilio Pucci Became the Prince of Psychedelic Prints,” 1st Dibs, Oct. 6, 2019. 12 Lara Mansour, “Prince Of Prints: The History Of Emilio Pucci,” A&E Magazine, Feb. 22, 2018. 13 “Inside the Pucci World,” Yoox.com, Nov. 25, 2008. 14 Bianca Zanotti, “Taking Flight: Emilio Pucci and his Influence on Class in the Jet Age,” Ryerson Fashion Research Collection, Nov. 20, 2020. 15 Amanda Hallay, “5 Minute Fashion: Emilio Pucci,” The Ultimate Fashion History, Oct. 10, 2018. 16 “The Story behind Pucci’s Prints,” Suzanne Lovell Inc, Jan. 30, 2020 17 Clair Watson, “How Fashion Icon Emilio Pucci Became the Prince of Psychedelic Prints,” 1st Dibs, Oct. 6, 2019. Currently, our world is yet again crawling back from the depths of international tragedy. After months of bleak isolation, we are all hungry for a little Pucci whose silhouettes are injected with a sense of joy and playfulness. Given the world’s recent opportunity for introspection, we now have a deeper connection to our inner selves and imagination and a real need to express it.

“Bold joyful prints are exactly what shoppers are gravitating towards in a post lockdown world,” says Noelle Sciacca, women’s editorial lead at The RealReal. Over the last 12 months, TheRealReal has seen a significantly large increase in demand and sales for Pucci.18

Following this emphasis on freedom and individuality, bold, kaleidoscopic prints and rhythmic, free-flowing fabrics—as seen in the fabulous designs of Emilio Pucci—are becoming coveted pieces yet again.

Fashion is currently in the midst of vintage revival sparked by celebrities and influencers wearing vintage in a way that feels new and exciting to younger audiences. “For younger generations stepping into their purchasing power, these are trends they didn’t participate in the first time around but now they’re excited to experiment with them,” says Sciacca of ‘00s fashion. Pucci, among other similar brands like Blumarine and Robert Cavalli, are becoming highly sought after pieces for the post-lockdown reset. On TikTok, the #emiliopucci hashtag alone has over 10 million views.19

Vintage Pucci designs are not the only thing to keep on your radar. Newly appointed creative director Camille Miceli is set to breathe new life into the brand with her collection launching on April 29th. Her collection, “La Grotta Azzurra,” will be unveiled in Capri—like Pucci’s first boutique— and is described as a “nomadic, joyful and colorful wardrobe, anchored in the Mediterranean.”20 Once again, the genius of Emilio Pucci will come alive for a new generation. His influence will no doubt be felt in the designs of future visionaries looking to create whimsical elements, color and joy through fashion. ■

18 Aemilia Madden, “The Grassroots Revival of Emilio Pucci,” Fashionista, March 29, 2022. 19 Ibid. 20 Sophia Ysabel, Concordia, “Camille Miceli Unveils her First Collection as Artistic Director for Emilio Pucci,” Inquirer Lifestyle, April 4, 2022.