Balancing Clean Beauty

By Will Fennell

I often receive questions about balancing a clean beauty ethos with performance-driven skincare. The answer is straightforward: it’s not easy.

At Biodroga, our Clean Beauty initiative is driven by a bold vision: to create cosmetic products that not only enhance beauty but also align with ethical practices. This includes eliminating all mineral oil, parabens, phthalates, microplastics, PEGs, and silicones from our formulations.

We care deeply about the origins and production methods of the ingredients we use. However, we recognise that delivering genuine performance requires a delicate balance—one that provides stunning textures, a luxurious feel on the skin, and impressive results.

To achieve a high level of effectiveness, we utilise well-established active ingredients that have secured their place in the cosmetic industry. Ingredients like niacinamide, retinol, peptides, glycolic acid, and specific chemical UV filters are essential, even though many stem from synthetic or petrochemical sources. Currently, there are no precise natural alternatives available on the market. This is a thoughtful choice we make to incorporate these synthetic actives, ensuring we maintain the quality and effectiveness our customers expect.

- Glycolic Acid

- Methylpropanediol

Product development often involves incorporating additional synthetic components to stabilise and solubilise valuable ingredients. For instance, while we explored various naturally derived solubilisers for niacinamide, we found that propylene glycol, despite its petrochemical origins, was the most effective method for delivering a high concentration of niacinamide.

We carefully consider each ingredient to strike a balance between purity and performance. Our commitment to Clean Beauty is an ongoing journey, and we continuously seek viable alternatives to synthetic materials. We are driven by our desire to create even cleaner products without sacrificing efficacy.

A shining example of clean beauty innovation is retinal, an active ingredient derived from vitamin A. Excitingly, retinal can now be produced using biotechnological methods. At the same time, traditional retinol still relies on petrochemical synthesis.

Choosing specific active ingredients carefully is essential for maintaining effectiveness in any “medical” line, which is often meticulously crafted to address particular skin concerns.

While a comprehensive list of synthetic ingredients would be too extensive, here are some key ones that cannot be replicated with naturally derived alternatives:

- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

- Butylene Glycol

- Chemical UV Filters

- Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

- Dipeptide-4

- Dipropylene Glycol

- Niacinamide

- Panthenol

- Pentapeptide-48

- Retinol

Conversely, this raises the question of how many ingredients can be sourced without relying on petrochemicals. Companies are now compelled to act to substitute natural-origin ingredients whenever possible.

I am genuinely interested in the potential of Clean Beauty in skincare! Initially, I believed we needed to eliminate all petrochemicals; however, my exploration and practical experience in this evolving field have shown me the importance of finding a balance. After all, certain powerful ingredients, such as niacinamide, are undeniably essential.

For those after a completely petrochemical-free experience, there are excellent options available on the market. Numerous products, such as our Biodroga Organic Institute line, provide near-cosmeceutical results, offering a fantastic solution through certified organic skincare.

Ultimately, the decisions we make empower us to collectively enrich our beauty journey while promoting a more ethical approach to cosmetics. By reducing our petrochemical usage and minimising our environmental footprint, we can explore exciting possibilities and make informed choices that benefit both our skin and the planet.

Good luck.

Will x

I want to thank my colleague Nicole Frank from Biodroga, Germany, for her assistance with this article.

Will Fennell is an International trainer and owner of Biodroga Australia www.biodroga.com.au