Turku Times 2/2021

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MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE A brief introduction to Finnishness Page 8

The Winter(Sport)’s Tale Page 10

Old masters and art classics at the Turku Art Museum

Royal Salute from Sweden!

Page 21

A column by Roman Schatz

Enjoy your stay! please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

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Mylly is the largest shopping centre in the southwest of Finland hosting more than 150 shops, restaurants and services only a 15-minute drive from the heart of Turku.

Take a busline:

220, 221 or 300

3€

0€

and head to Myllynkatu 1, 21280 Raisio.

Nice days come to those who take it easy, as they say.

www.kauppakeskusmylly.fi

CONTENTS Turku is looking ahead confidently 6 A brief introduction to Finnishness 8 The Winter(Sport)’s Tale 10 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 14 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 16 Turku timeline 18 Royal Salute from Sweden! 21 Enjoy your stay! – Column by Roman Schatz 25

Turku Times Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2021 Autumn-Winter-Spring www.turkutimes.fi ISSN 2342-2823 (print) ISSN 2669-8285 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor in chief Roope Lipasti Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

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Graphic design & layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos River Aura in the winter. Photo: Visit Turku Main library in the spring. Photo: Pekka Vallila / City of Turku Food Walk Turku. Photo: Visit Turku Walking on the ice. Photo: Visit Turku Roman Schatz. Photo: Marek Sabogal

Turku Times map application for mobile phones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi.

The magazine is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 16). The next issue will be out in April 2022.

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Need a cab? はい

oui!

da!

Haa!

是的

Yes!

да

jah!

si!

Kyllä!

Taxidata on Turun alueen suurin, turvallinen ja luotettava taksipalvelu.

Taxidata is the largest, safe and reliable taxi service in the Turku area.

Tilaa taksi aina numerosta 0200 10041

Always order a taxi from the number +358 200 10041

Puhelun hinta on 1,84 €/puhelu + pvm/mpm.

The price of the call is 1.84 € / local network fee + mobile phone payment

Voit myös ladata Book a Taxi sovelluksemme Google Play tai Apple Store -palvelusta

www.taxidata.fi

ja!

photo: Suvi Elo

Turku is looking ahead confidently I am pleased to welcome you to Turku.

smart and sustainable city become highlighted in the development work of the area.

However, the biggest strength of Turku Science Park is the internationally significant experts operating the area: residents, businesses as well as education and research clusters.

Whether you are here for work, studies

or a holiday, I hope you will have the most

pleasant stay and find the right experiences for you.

The most significant and far-reaching objective for our anniversary year 2029 is to have Turku be a carbon neutral city by that time, and a climate positive one after that. Being climate positive is the most valuable gift the people of today can give to the city and the people living in Turku in the future.

With our climate work, we want to be at the international forefront of global cooperation to combat climate change. Turku is an active member of UN Climate Change Conferences and the global ICLEI network of local governments.

I now invite you to participate in climate work by, for example, favouring the delicious and clean local food and by taking a walk or a bike ride along the River Aura.

Even though Turku is a small town compared to the great big cities of the world, our goals are still aimed high. There are about 330,000 people living in the Turku region, but we have an exceptional amount of skill and expertise here. With a total of six universities and universities of applied sciences and their about 40,000 students and teachers, our city is guaranteed to be brimming with energy, smarts, creativity and the ability to renew.

Success in Turku is guaranteed by cooperation between the City, universities and businesses, all aiming to grow the Turku region in a sustainable way at the forefront of development. This will ensure that Turku is a great place to live and travel to.

We want to offer our very best to you as well. I hope that you will leave us feeling refreshed and eager to come back soon.

We also want to do our best to make you feel comfortable and safe during your stay. Tourism entrepreneurs and operators in the Turku region are strongly committed to health security, which takes into account hygiene and the well-being of customers.

The pandemic caused a substantial decline in international business and holiday travel for more than a year. Thanks to extensive vaccinations, we once more have the opportunity to travel and meet other people face to face, although still minding everyone’s health and safety. It is delightful how much we now know to appreciate the reopening of international travel and our sense of community.

Turku is a city with far-reaching traditions – the oldest city in Finland! The long history of our city gives the people who live here a sense of perspective and faith that we can overcome anything.

Even now, we are looking ahead confidently.

Our goals for the upcoming years have been set for 2029, which is when we celebrate 800 years of Turku. This anniversary is an important milestone for us. We are focusing our preparations on renewal, well-being and sustainable development.

At the moment, our most prominent project is the extensive renovation of the market square, which is already well on its way.

Soon, our city centre will have a new car-free market square area with gorgeous footpaths, bike lanes and recreational areas.

In addition to the city centre, we are heavily involved in developing and building many areas. The development of Turku Science Park, right next to the universities, is well underway. It is the most energy-efficient constructed area in the city. The solutions and technologies of a

Minna Arve The Mayor of Turku 6

Photo: Veera Aaltonen

SCIENCE, FICTION AND ACTION!

Welcome to Finland’s most dynamic business and innovation cluster, which is traditionally well-known for its strong science and manufacturing industries but also offers excellent opportunities for companies operating within the experience industry and tourism. Sustainability and strong focus on R&D activities to tackle climate change are also close to our brave hearts.

Networking with impact

The Turku region warmly welcomes new talents, companies and investments to Finland’s most dynamic business and innovation cluster.

We are particularly proud of our multidisciplinary approach, boldness and exceptionally strong community spirit between all actors here. www.turkubusinessregion.com

photos: Envato

A brief introduction to Finnishness There is usually some truth to stereotypes and clichés, so they can be enlightening when you want to get to know Finland and Finnishness. So here we go:

Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Alex Ahlgren & Owen F. Witesman

How to understand Finns?

Geography and People

Going even further west, you find the Häme people, whom we won’t mention further because they don’t like to call too much attention to themselves. Conversely, on the West Coast people are even quieter than normal, which is good because the few words they say are usually rude.

Ostrobothnians place their trust in two higher powers, themselves and God, especially the former. Finns in the middle of the country do not have any special characteristics other than that everyone owns their own lake. The north is home to people who live 150 kilometers from the nearest convenience store and 140 from a mailbox, which has made them quite broad-minded.

There is also a minority of Swedish-speaking Finns, who differ from others in that they are beautiful, rich, healthy and live on the coast.

1. Language The Finnish language is very difficult, so much so that Finns themselves even avoid using it, which is why Finns often prefer to speak through their actions.

The Finnish language is actually very ergonomic. You can just slap as many suffixes as you want on the end of a word, such as in, paikka/nsa/ pitä/mättö/myy/dessä/nsä/kö/hän/kään ([not] in their incorrectness either). There’s also pretty much no end to making compounds: lentokonesuihkuturbiinimoottoriapumekaanikkoaliupseerioppilas (Airplane jet turbine motor assistant mechanic non-commissioned officer trainee).

It should also be mentioned that Finns find it funny when Germans put verb clusters at the end of subordinate clauses.

4. Character

2. Seasons

Every nation has certain hardened perceptions of its character, which often spread to neighboring countries too. For example, Finns are supposedly taciturn, honest, hardworking, trustworthy, humble, inventive, violent, drunk, shy, frumpy and persistent.

All of these are true.

But Finns are also talkative, cosmopolitan, educated, lazy, dishonest, affectionate, teetotalers, beautiful, outdoorsy, urban, gay, heterosexual, dour, xenophobic and very tolerant.

Central to the nature of Finns are pessimism and self-flagellation.

For example, the people who succeed in Finnish politics are those who know how to paint the darkest and ugliest future. People typically succeed in politics by promising that everything will go to hell if they’re not elected.

There are five seasons in Finland. Summer is short, bright and breathtaking, autumn is colorful and crisp. Winter is long, cold and beautiful. Spring is wonderful because winter is finally over. The fifth season is the second winter, which always arrives just when you think the damn winter is over.

3. Tribes Several very different tribes live in Finland. When traveling in Finland, it’s a good idea to take into account at least the following factors about the way these tribes behave: The East is home to talkative and emotional people who are usually crying when they aren’t laughing. These are the Karelians. To the west of Karelians live the Savonians, who consider themselves folksy but not everyone appreciates the subtlety of their wit.

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Customs

Topics of national pride

1. Restaurants

1. The maternity package

In Finland, it is important not to be a bother. You see this especially in restaurant culture: Waiters often aren’t particularly friendly, if there even is one. Many times you have to pick up your drinks and even your food from the counter yourself. We don’t tip since it’s usually equated with giving alms.

Above all, in restaurants it is important to eat quietly and without complaining, no matter how bad the food. When the server asks if you like your meal, you’re supposed to nod and smile and say that you just ate at home, which is why you didn’t finish your plate.

In addition to the Winter War, one of the things Finland takes the greatest pride in is when the state gives each newborn baby a cardboard box full of baby items. It’s an ingenious way to save on the expense of a bed, since the baby can sleep in the cardboard box.

Buying an actual bed would be stupid, since babies rarely seem to sleep, especially at night. Condoms have also been wisely added to the maternity package so that the state can save on the cost of future maternity packages.

Maternity packages are also an export product. In one audacious attempt at international marketing, a maternity package was sent to the English royals, who hadn’t previously thought of sleeping in cardboard boxes. The maternity package has been available to all mothers since 1949.

2. Personal space Personal space is important for Finns. This may be due to the fact that the country’s size is 338,424 square kilometers, which means that each Finn (5.5 million people) could have 61 hectares to themselves.

Being in close quarters with others is a vexing experience for Finns.

A good conversational distance is two meters, which is coincidentally the same as what was recommended during the coronavirus pandemic.

Any more distant and you have to raise your voice (bad) and any less and you might make physical contact (even worse).

2. Sisu In their own minds, Finns are the most tenacious nation in the world.

We still remind people that Finland was the only country in the world to pay back its war reparations and Marshall Plan aid, thus earning its reputation as the “Country that paid its debts”.

Finns do not want to be indebted to anyone in their private lives either. It causes them anxiety if a friend offers them a glass of beer, which is why the warmest friendships arise between those who never give each other anything.

3. Queuing There are many unwritten rules for standing in line, and we follow them strictly. Don’t stand too close to the person in front of or behind you. An acceptable distance would be just far enough so the queue doesn’t look like a queue. This results in each person’s place in line being constantly open to question. Therefore, you have to glare at others to make sure they don’t cut. Also, to make sure you don’t cut ahead yourself. This makes queuing quite laborious.

There is also no talking in line. Not to the cashier, but especially not to the other customers. If someone speaks, we act like we don’t hear them. Money should be retrieved well in advance: The cash register is not the place to be digging out and counting coins or selecting which credit card to use. You have to think of others. No one wants to be standing in line any longer than they have to.

3. Reliability Finns are the most reliable people in the world. This is evident in many areas, not least in large-scale industry. If you order a ship from the Finns, it arrives as agreed and on time. In Finland, schedules and sticking to them are valued perhaps more than anything else. The construction industry, rail transport and public procurement are, of course, exceptions to this.

You cannot offend a Finn worse than by arriving late to an appointment without a valid reason. These include death and dying.

4. Obedience

4. At the store

Finns love rules. They also love to hate rules, but everyone obeys them all the same. This is reflected not only in strange laws (a 15-year-old can obtain a license to buy a shotgun but cannot buy sparklers), but also in the fact that in 2018 there were about 140,000 nonprofit organizations in Finland.

For Finns, it’s always preferable to handle things rigidly, bureaucratically and in accordance with rules. For many, serving as the president, treasurer, or the like of a nonprofit organization is an honor and a sign that they are respected members of society with a reasonable but not excessive amount of influence.

Haggling is not at all customary in Finland. It’s embarrassing for Finns. It gives the impression that someone can’t afford what they’re buying or the seller is trying to swindle the customer. This simply doesn’t happen in Finland.

In Finnish society, you can’t charge someone anything less than what is on the price tag because then there wouldn’t be the right amount of money in the register at the end of the day. The cash register has to balance perfectly. That is what Finnishness is all about.

But we’re still frugal in Finland: we could drive 500 kilometers in search of cheaper gasoline.

5. Equality

5. Dating

Finland is one of the most equal countries in the world. Women were given the right to vote in 1906, and they have been able to participate in working life just like men since the end of the world wars at the latest. Women actually work even more than men, since they also do most of the housework (about 60 %). Women are also the majority of university students in Finland.

Of course, there is still room for improvement. At public events, the queues for women’s restrooms are an ongoing problem because the number of toilets is always calculated incorrectly. s

When a Finn is head over heels in love, they ask the object of their love out for coffee. Either one can take the initiative. At the café, each pays for their own food and drinks. No one brings flowers or other gifts. We just drink filtered coffee and think anxiously about what to say next. Men look at their hands. Women then also look at the man’s hands. For this reason, it’s a good idea to keep your hands clean.

If one of the people is a foreigner, a good topic for conversation is Finland and Finnishness. The point of saunas should not be questioned, however.

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Arctic heroes meet the Bard

The Winter(Sport)’s Tale Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Alex Ahlgren & Owen F. Witesman

The history of Finnish winter sports

is full of grand emotions, tragedy and larger-than-life characters. Just like Shakespeare’s plays.

Above: Mika Myllylä practising in the bog in his hometown Haapajärvi. photo: Hannes Heikura, HS / Lehtikuva

T

he best ski jumper of all time, Matti Nykänen, who won four Olympic gold medals in the 1980s, six world championships and 46 World Cup competitions, is perhaps the most Shakespearian of Finnish winter sports heroes, combining Hamlet and Falstaff in the same person. Hamlet is especially known for his distinctive monologues (as well as for seeing ghosts), whereas Nykänen’s specialty was his endless supply of seemingly senseless one-liners (“life is man’s best time”, “the odds are fifty-sixty”).

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Lahti was Finland’s Lady Macbeth moment - amid the fall from grace, everything crystallized into one question:

“What, will these hands ne’er be clean?”

In addition to his success in sports, Nykänen’s popularity was based – just like Falstaff ’s, perhaps Shakespeare’s most beloved character – on his role as a sympathetic knave and bon vivant.

Nykänen’s legendary escapades included leaving in the middle of the training season for a beach party vacation, then flying straight from there to the World Championships and winning a silver medal.

Unfortunately, after his sports career ended, alcoholism, violence and jail time changed the story from a rollicking comedy into a tragedy, which ended with Nykänen’s death at the age of 55. Nykänen’s oft-used nickname “ski jumping’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde” tells you everything you need to know.

the entire athletic world for his mistakes. As if from Shakespeare’s pen, Myllylä surrendered in the face of cruel fate: “I believe God wanted this to happen to me… Now there is no more hurry. The battle is over.”

In fact, the oft-repeated lesson of the Bard’s stories is that no one can escape their fate, no matter how heroic they are. This was forgotten by Juha Mieto, who missed the 15-kilometer gold medal in cross-country skiing at the 1980 Lake Placid Olympics by one hundredth of a second. This defeat was bitter, but in a way it was expected, since previous important races had shown that the ski gods did not favor this giant of a Finn. In 1972, he lost the Olympic bronze by six hundredths of a second, in 1974 he left the World Championship with a silver medal because he was still using wooden skis while the winner used technically superior fiberglass, and in 1978 a failed ski wax dropped him to bronze, leaving the gold only five seconds out of reach. Despite the bad precedent, Mieto left for Lake Placid with the same certainty of victory as Julius Caesar leaving for the Senate, disregarding the strange behavior of birds and other evil omens. After the assassins strike, Caesar wraps himself in his toga and dies, and Mieto escapes to the silence and loneliness of the forest after his defeat.

Shakespeare’s dramas are not mere gloom and doom, though; there are also good moments. “We few, we happy few, we band of Brothers,” proclaimed King Henry V as he roused his troops’ thirst for victory before one decisive battle. These words could have been from Jukka Jalonen, the head coach of the Finnish team that took home a sensational win at the 2019 Ice Hockey World Championship. Before the match, the Finnish media had dubbed the team as the worst in its history. However, the steadfast teammates banned together during the playoffs to overthrow Sweden, Russia and Canada.

A great man succumbing to his own ambitions and weaknesses is typical of Shakespeare’s characters, the most well-known examples of which are Richard III and Macbeth. In the history of Finnish skiing, this will forever be the story of Mika Myllylä. Myllylä became every Finn’s hero by winning the men’s 30 kilometer cross-country skiing Olympic gold medal in 1998 and three world championships in 1999. However, what was anticipated to be the crowning achievement of Myllylä’s career, the 2001 World Championship in Lahti, Finland, was overshadowed by a doping scandal, which turned this national hero into a national traitor.

Like Nykänen, Myllylä’s life was difficult after the end of his sports career, including drunk driving and assault convictions. Myllylä’s life ended in an accident at only 41 years old.

Myllylä was not the only Finnish athlete to be busted using banned substances at the Lahti World Championships. The first skier caught, Jari Isometsä, said that he had acted on his own and received help from outside the country’s ski team. It later emerged that this story had been agreed upon between Isometsä and the coaching staff while sitting together in a sauna, i.e. in the words of Lady Macbeth: “A little water clears us of this deed”. Although Isometsä fell on his sword (or in his case perhaps his ski pole) in the best Marcus Antonius style, that did not prevent exposure of large-scale, systematic doping. In addition to Myllylä and Isometsä, two other male and two female skiers were banned from competition, and the team’s coaches and doctors received long bans.

Lahti was Finland’s Lady Macbeth moment – amid the fall from grace, everything crystallized into one question: “What, will these hands ne’er be clean?” Images of endless press conferences were burned into the memories of Finnish viewers as the ski federation leadership assured everyone of their shock and ignorance. Marcus Antonius might have given the same sarcastic testimony about Caesar’s assassins: “… they are all Honorable men.”

Completely broken after the games, Myllylä published his “last will and testament” in which he apologized to the Finnish people and

Finally, let’s return to Mika Myllylä’s last will and testament, the final lines of which are so chilling that even the Bard himself would be proud: “Once again my ears are enchanted by the mystical allure of the serene Tervaneva (the swamp where Myllylä practiced). Humble, grateful and desolate, I will roam back against the headwind for the last time, kneel and concede my defeat, and beg for peace for my soul.” s

BEIJING WINTER OLYMPICS FEBRUARY 4–20, 2022 Shakespeare quotes and references: Antony and Cleopatra, Hamlet, Henry V, Julius Caesar, Macbeth and Richard III.

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Wine Bar Viinille

5

is a small and cosy specialist wine restaurant in Turku’s centre.

A selection of over 200 wines, most of which are reasonably priced and sold by the glass. Small pastries, olives, chorizo sausage as well as tasty cheeses perfectly compliment the beverages.

MEDITERRANEAN DELICACIES

BY THE RIVERSIDE Restaurant Gustavo invites you to enjoy Mediterranean specialities with a Scandinavian twist!

• Wines & pintxos • Naples style pizza • Summer terrace menu • A’la carte dinner You can also choose takeaway or delivery by Wolt.

HUMALISTONKATU 6, TURKU TEL. +358 2 232 3314

Reservations and information: www.gustavo.fi/en Tel. +358 46 9222 488 • Linnankatu 1, Turku

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TULE SELLAISENA KUIN OLET Tenlén BBQ and Smokery Ruissalon Telakka, Avoinna To-La 16-22

Pöytävaraukset: www.tenlen.fi +358 400 882 301

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BEST BEER AND FOOD IN TOWN

in Brewery-Restaurant Koulu

Brewery restaurant School (Koulu) is one of the largest and oldest restaurant breweries in Finland.

With plenty of seating, tasty food, wide range of drinks and a relaxed atmosphere, Koulu is a welcoming local hangout.

We serve our craft brewed beers and ciders on tap in our full-service Brewery Pub. Enjoy a pint or order a flight of 4 different beers for a beer tasting.

During weekdays we serve tasty home-made lunch from the buffet on our second floor.

Our Wine room is open after summer season.

There we have a wine list with wide range of quality wines.

Several wines are served by the glass and even by 4 cl tasting portions.

Hansa shopping center

AURAKATU

BOOK YOUR TABLE: www.kakolanruusu.fi p. +358 44 223 0200

YLIOPISTONKATU - WALKING STREET

KRISTIINANKATU

Kakolanruusu is a restaurant in one of the most unique environments in Finland - the old Kakola prison.

Of course, all our own beers and ciders are served along with other drinks as well as our tasty food.

EERIKINKATU BREWERYRESTAURANT

KOULU

Eerikinkatu 18, Puh.(02) 274 5757 www.panimoravintolakoulu.fi 9

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Turku Times is available in these high standard Hotels & Hostels

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06 HOTEL HELMI

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Yliopistonkatu 20, 2nd Floor ☎ +358 (0)2 279 1200

photos: City of Turku

leitnm r kuTu

Written by Roope Lipasti

1229

1634

1917

The Pope orders the bishopric to be moved from Nousiainen to the new city of Turku. By the river Aura in Koroinen, there is a white memorial cross standing in the place where the Bishop’s little castle once was. It is a nice place to visit, as is the entire riverbank, where one can walk or go jogging.

The first map of Turku is published, and for a good reason, too: there were already 6,000 habitants, so the city was huge!

Finland declares independence.

1300 The Turku cathedral is inaugurated. It is the most beautiful cathedral in Finland. Not least because it is also the only proper cathedral in Finland.

1308 The first documented mention of the Turku Castle, although the construction probably began as early as the 1280s. Builders in Turku were in no hurry, as the castle wasn’t completed until 1588. The most magnificent Renaissance period in the history of Finland was seen in Turku castle during the reign of Catharina Jagiellon and Duke John (later king John III) 1562–1563.

1640 The University of Turku is established.

Nowadays, Turku is still a renowned city of higher education with more than 40,000 students studying at six universities.

1642 Finlands first printing house is established in Turku. It prints books, among them the thesis Aboa Vetus et Nova by Mr Daniel Juslenius (1676–1752), in which he studies the birth of Turku. His conclusion was that the people in Turku are decendants of Jaafet, the third son of Noah.

Sweden loses Finland to Russia in 1809, and in 1812 Helsinki is declared as the new capital – something that still slightly upsets people in Turku.

1414

1827 Turku burns down and almost the whole city must be built again, which is the reason why Turku doesn’t have a medieval centre anymore.

Turku is not quite a Hanseatic city, but almost.

It is one of the major cities in Sweden and its international trade is significant.

1543

1939–1945 Finland is at war with Russia. Turku suffers great damage during the bombings, among other buildings the castle is partly burned.

1956, 1976, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1993, 1995, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2010.

TPS, the biggest ice-hockey club in Turku, wins the Finnish championship.

1812

The first bridge over river Aura is built. It was called The Pennybridge.

1500

1922 The University of Turku is established again, since the original Academy was moved to Helsinki after the great fire in 1827. Åbo Akademi University, the only university in Finland with Swedish as official language, was founded in 1918. (Åbo is the name of Turku in Swedish.)

1960–1980 Turku suffers from the so called “Turku sickness” – meaning that many beautiful old buildings were demolished in order to be replaced with modern blockhouses.

2011 Turku is the European Capital of Culture.

1900

2021

The first Christmas tree illuminated with electric lamps is erected in front of the Cathedral. The tradition became regular in the 1930s.

Turku is the sixth largest city in Finland with 194,000 inhabitants. It also is one of the nicest cities and most popular holiday destinations in Finland, with its historical attractions and magnificent archipelago. s

Mikael Agricola, the father of written Finnish, publishes his first book. It is also a milestone of Protestantism in Finland.

18

13

Winter in Turku Cathedral Christmas Season

❄ Turku has a special atmosphere for

Christmas. Before the season of Advent, the City’s Christmas tree is placed in front of the Cathedral. Its hundreds of lights are lit to bring joy to Turku city dwellers.

Ecumenical Christmas in Turku

❄ This wonderful ceremony with bishops,

church leaders and glorious Christmas music will take place on Thursday, 16th Dec 6 pm in Turku Cathedral.

Turku Cathedral

❄ Finland’s only medieval cathedral and

national shrine was consecrated in 1300.

When you visit this wonderful shrine, you step into Finland’s long history as a part of Sweden and later of the Russian Empire (1809–1917). The Roman Catholic era ended with a Protestant Reformation in the 16th Century. During Finland’s 104 years of independence the Evangelical Lutheran Church has been a folk church.

Turku Cathedral is the central church of the Lutheran Archdiocese of Turku and the seat of the Lutheran Archbishop of Finland, Tapio Luoma. ❄ Guide booklets and QR code information about chapels and tombs. ❄ Open daily, 9 am.–6 pm.

Services in English

❄ Turku Cathedral International Congregation (TCIC), see Facebook group tcicmembers or www.turunseurakunnat. fi/international-congregation

Layout and illustration: Erkki Kiiski | Original photos: Timo Jakonen

15

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Written by Christian Hoffmann senior curator, Turku Art Museum

Hans Gedda (b. 1942): Left hand of King Carl XVI Gustaf, 1996.

Nationalmuseum.

Royal Salute from Sweden!

Old masters and art classics rarely

seen in Finland are now on show at the Turku Art Museum. The lavish

exhibition showcases European and Swedish art - paintings, sculptures, ceramics and photographs - from the collections of the Swedish

S

panning the past 500 years, Royal Salute begins with the Renaissance and continues through the Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical periods to the early 20th century and finally to the turn of the millennium. Scenes based on colorful ancient myths and stories, masterful and allegorical still lifes, prestigious official portraits and intimate interiors all reflect the values and stylistic ideals of their day, just as the genre paintings, urban motifs and rural landscapes completed in the realist style of the 19th century.

Nationalmuseum.

21

Frans Snyders (1579–1657). Still Life with Dead Game, a Monkey, a Parrot, and a Dog, undated. Nationalmuseum.

Royal Salute features art works rarely seen in Finland by such from ancient tales, mythology and allegories were among the key artists as Adriaen de Vries, Cranach, Rembrandt, Rubens, Boucher themes of the period, along with grand official portraits. and Manet, as well as Swedish classics including Roslin, Sergel Cultural exchange and discovery were boosted in the 17th century and Carl Larsson. The selection on show is based on the Royal by nearly endless wars, whose spoils included entire art collections Swedish art collection, which formed the core of the Royal Museum and libraries. A case in point happened in connection with skirmishes (Kongl. Museum), founded in 1792 at the Royal Palace of Stockholm. towards the end of the 30 Years’ War in Prague in 1648, when the Opening its doors two years later, the museum was one of the first Swedish high command was instructed to reserve the treasures of the public art museums in Europe. Its collections in turn formed the imperial castle for the Swedish crown. The sculpture group Hercules, core of the Nationalmuseum, inaugurated in 1866. The collections Nessus and Deianira by Adriaen de Vries is one of those Bohemian at Nationalmuseum are the largest in the Nordic countries in terms souvenirs in the exhibition. of their breadth and temporal range, and also among the most important in Europe.

Royal Salute is a lavish journey through the Memento mori The symbolism history of Western art as well as the surrounding

context of political and cultural history of Europe.

The exhibition illustrates how national art has been shaped in the crucible of international influences.

Some of the works are also tangible reminders of encounters between European nations.

concealed in the

Still life first emerged as an independent and reputable genre in Western art in the 17th century. flowers, fruit and other The symbolism concealed in the flowers, fruit and other objects in the pictures was only accessible to objects in the pictures the educated. The central theme in the genre was was only accessible to the transitoriness and ultimate futility of all earthly things, hence the Latin name memento mori. the educated.

Cultural encounters Artists specialised in certain types of still lifes, such as Frans Snyders, whose speciality Up until the first half of the 18th century, most artists in Sweden came was animals and game. His large canvas is also a fine illustration from abroad. King Gustav I and his sons had previously patronised of the cultural landscape of the time, for alongside dead game it the arts when they wanted to emphasise their power and raise the features exotic animals, a monkey and a parrot. The animals are an prestige of the royal house. Such matters became even more important indication of contacts with the wider world outside Europe, some of in the 17th century, when the country sought to display its new, rapidly which was due to early colonisation. Sweden too established a colony, won status as a great power also outwardly, both in architecture and albeit a very short-lived one, in 1638, in the New World in what is art. Artists and architects were recruited from abroad, primarily from today Delaware. The early 1600s also saw the emergence of the first Holland, France and Germany, and with them the grand courtly art of trading companies, whose imports to Europe included exotic fruit the Italian-French Baroque period found its way to Sweden. Figures and porcelain.

22

Flowering of the Arts Historically, the political collapse of a state is often followed by a period of cultural upsurge. In the 18th century, after the Great Northern War, this occurred also in Sweden in both science and art. French Rococo became the dominant trend in architecture and visual arts. The process was sped up by the invitation of French artists to complete the interior decoration of the Royal Palace in Stockholm. The palace also acquired important works of contemporary art, such as the large painting by François Boucher in this exhibition.

Many Swedish artists settled in Paris and prospered there. One of the most notable among them was the internationally renowned portrait painter Alexander Roslin, whose skills were also employed by the Russian court in St Petersburg. The reign of Gustavus III, a quick-witted patron of the arts, saw an unprecedented cultural boom, and the neoclassical Gustavian style of interior design became a household concept both in Sweden and Finland. The vivid interior scene by Pehr Hilleström the Elder and Johan Tobias Sergel’s cool and idealised posthumous bust of the king are emblematic of stylistic ideals of the period and the refined lifestyle of the upper classes.

Mikael Jansson (b. 1958). Victoria, crown princess of Sweden. 2002. Nationalmuseum.

Emergence of national art The loss of Finland in the war of 1808–1809 and the subsequent purge of the royal house marked the beginning of a new era in Swedish history. Consolation was sought in the arts in a romantic spirit by turning to Scandinavian mythology and the glorious past as well as idealised depictions of common people.

From the 1860s onwards, Swedish artists favoured Paris over Düsseldorf as a place to study. French Realism and later Naturalism reared their heads as stylistic trends. La Vie Moderne became a stock phrase in the French art world in the 1860s. Artists were expected to depict their own time, urban life and society without embellishment, preferably in a socially progressive spirit, rather than dwelling on theatrical historical motifs and hackneyed mythological subjects.

The portrayal of the everyday life of ordinary, “unspoilt” people also became popular. The subjects were initially found in the French countryside and later in native Sweden.

A Novel Angle on the Royal Family

Alexander Roslin (1718–1793). Zoie Ghika, Moldavian Princess, 1777. Nationalmuseum.

The most recent period in the exhibition is represented by photographic portraits of members of the current royal family of Sweden. The official portrait of Crown Princess Victoria follows established tradition; its early counterpart in the exhibition is a portrait of Queen Christina as a child from the early 17th century.

More relaxed and informal are the photos of “Vickan” and King Carl XVI Gustaf. They are meant to convey a sense of a modern, contemporary monarchy: For Sweden – with the Times, as the King’s motto puts it. In the photo of his hand, the King is present through the symbols of his power, whereas a hand gripping the hilt of a sword is a reference to another King named Carl (XII). The picture of Queen Silvia is almost an elegant fashion photo, yet one can read it metaphorically: the bourgeois Silvia opening the court’s curtains to let in new winds. s 23

TURKU ART MUSEUM Aurakatu 26 | turkuartmuseum.fi Open Tue–Fri 11 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun 11 am–5 pm.

Admission 12 / 7 € / Museum card.

Free admission for visitors under 16 years.

ROYAL SALUTE

OMAR VICTOR DIOP

1 Oct 2021 – 9 Jan 2022

28 Jan – 22 May 2022.

Museum also hosts collections and temporary exhibitions such as Studio and Darkroom series dedicated to contemporary art.

SEE

ON MAP (PAGE 15)

PATH OF LIGHT The darkest time of the year will be brightened with the light installations and seasonal light decorations of the Path of Light instalment.

Festival weekend: 3.–6.12.2021 Children’s Land of Light: 21.–22.1.2022 More information: turku.fi/en/pathoflight The Path of Light map route on Citynomadi website and mobile app: turku.fi/citynomadi/pathoflight

In 2021, Turku celebrates the tenth anniversary of the city’s year as the European Capital of Culture. The Path of Light is part of the anniversary program.

photo: Museum Centre of Finland / M. L. Carstens

TURKU TI MES

COLUMN

Enjoy your stay!

Every once in a while, hotels are the setting for events of historical dimensions. Some of the world’s biggest deals – both legal and illegal – were made in a hotel: peace treaties were signed, empires founded and buried. Hotels have been the backdrop of many political, cultural and technological breakthroughs.

The very first telephone call in London was placed in 1877 from a hotel, and by none other than inventor Alexander Graham Bell himself. The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences was formed 1929 during a fete in a Los Angeles hotel. Rumor even has it that the first sketch of the Oscar statue was sketched on a hotel napkin. In 1963, Dr. Martin Luther King wrote his famous speech "I have a dream" in a hotel room in Washington D.C. In 2007, author J.K. Rowling finished Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in a hotel in Edinburgh.

And then there’s the martini cocktail, a timeless classic. The very first one is said to have been shaken – or stirred – by a hotel bartender at the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York City.

It’s clear that the world would be a different place without the before-mentioned achievements and without the hotels that made them possible.

Written by Roman Schatz

And so would Finland too, because in the early 1900s, when Finland was still part of Russia, the separatist intelligentsia used to meet at a hotel in downtown Helsinki. It’s here that guys like Akseli Gallen-Kallela, Jean Sibelius and Juhani Aho dreamed up their own national state.

Makes you wonder what their wives did while the founding fathers were drinking and discussing politics, doesn't it? Be that as it may, it’s safe to assume that without that hotel, Finland would not be what it is today, maybe it wouldn’t even exist as an independent state.

Hotels are often history in the making. But it doesn’t always have to be world history, it can also be rather personal: While not a lot of people are born in hotels, quite many babies are put on their way in a hotel bed. As a matter of fact, a group of Italian hotels are offering a free stay for couples who conceive in their rooms in a bid to tackle the country’s low birth rate. Couples who can produce a birth certificate of their child nine months after their stay will be entitled to a reimbursement for one night’s stay.

You feel intimidated now? I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to put you under any pressure. No sweat, you don’t have to do anything dramatical or achieve anything of historical dimensions while you’re here. Just enjoy your stay!

All I’m trying to say is: You’re in the right place to do something truly great, if you’re so inclined. Anything can happen in a hotel.

And you’ve been warned. s

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Roman Schatz is a writer, journalist and radio host who moved to Finland from West Germany 35 years ago. He has spent at least two years of his life in different hotels, both for business and pleasure…

Photo: Marek Sabogal

S

o you spent the night here. Or you’re about to. Or both.

Are you here for business or pleasure? Relaxing with your family? Relaxing without them?

Well, you’re absolutely right, that’s none of my business, and surely, you’ve already filled out your registration form at the reception desk.

I just want to remind you of the fact that you have entered the twilight zone, that you’re in a very special place. Hotels are much more than just a home away from home, they’re at the same time private and public spaces. Some people check in, because they don’t want to be seen together, others do it for exactly the opposite reason.

And while the bed, the breakfast, the friendly staff and the quality of the toilet paper are of course important, the most crucial thing about hotels is their magical potential.

The Phoenix Hotel pictured in 1908. The hotel was located on the edge of the Market Square along the street Venäjän Kirkkokatu (now Yliopistonkatu) and operated from 1878 to 1922 after which it became the main building of the University of Turku. The building was demolished in 1959.

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A T U R K U F L O W S ON T H E B R E ANK V I S OF T H E R

Enjoy the urban culture in Turku’s cafés, restaurants, parks, and museums. The best tips for things that are happening now you’ll always find from kissmyturku.com

FOOD WALK One card, five restaurants The Food Walk card takes you on the most delicious walk in Turku, along which you can indulge in the various tasting portions from local restaurants.

The idea is simple: select 5 of the 10 restaurants of your choice and embark on a walking tour from one dish to the next.

Buy your card from the tourist information office.

48€

TOURIST INFORMATION • The Market Square Monitori, Aurakatu 8, 20100 Turku Tel. +358 2 262 7444 • info@visi urku.fi • www.kissmyturku.com

A R U

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