Turku Times 2/2020

2/ 202 0

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE Into the great ice open Page 8

Citius, Altius, Politicus Page 18

Gem of a museum in the Cathedral Page 21

A column by Roope Lipasti

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

Confessions of a hotel room writer Page 24

WELCOME TO TURKU! Urban legends since 1229

MUSIC TURKU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AND TURKU CONCERT HALL Aninkaistenkatu 9

tfo.fi/en

MUSEUMS TURKU CASTLE

LIBRARY TURKU CITY LIBRARY Linnankatu 2 Open every day, Turku City Library is set in the impressive architecture of two buildings combined as a whole.

The library features several areas for events and exhibitions as well as plenty of places to read. The visitor can delve into the extensive collection of books and journals in either paper or electronic format. A wireless network is available in all areas for the use of laptops, but visitors also have access to multiple computers. Library services are free of charge. turku.fi/en/turku-city-library

Linnankatu 80 Museum is open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

The stately Turku Castle has guarded the mouth of the Aura River since the late 13th century. The tall granite walls conceal unique moments from history within them.

Over the course of its history, the castle has been defended and besieged, its governors changed and during Duke John’s era, the castle became a stage for court life.

kinds of art projects, lectures, concerts, workshops, courses, and theme days, such as the popular WAM children’s weekends.

Exhibitions • Rosa Barba 9 Oct – 10 Jan Rosa Barba combines immateriality with materiality in her works. Regardless of the immaterial nature, they emphasise spatiality and a powerful physical presence.

• Uncertain Horizon 29 Jan – 16 May This exhibition examines the changing sea around us. Things that we have taken for granted are uncertain and causal chains are surprising in the future.

PHARMACY MUSEUM AND THE QWENSEL HOUSE Läntinen Rantakatu 13b Museum is open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

The Qwensel House is the oldest remaining wooden building in Turku, featuring a bourgeois home from the 18th century and a pharmacy from the 19th century under one roof. turku.fi/en/museum We reserve the right to make changes.

WAM Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Museum is open Tue, Fri–Sun 10am–5pm, Wed–Thu 11am–20pm.

WAM is an art museum of the City of Turku, whose varying exhibitions present contemporary art phenomena locally as well as internationally. In addition to the exhibitions, the museum organises many

© Janne Riikonen

© Heikki Tuuli

Turku Philharmonic Orchestra offers a wide range of concerts from September to May both in Turku Concert Hall and in the many historical venues of Turku and the beautiful archipelago. The weekly symphony concerts feature guest artists from Finland and abroad. TPO:s Artistic Director and Principal Conductor from 1.1.2021 onwards is renowned conductor, pianist and composer Olli Mustonen.

turkukalenteri.fi/en

TALL SHIPS RACES THE

TURKU

5.–8.7.2021

TURKUWARDS HO! The Tall Ships Races returns to Turku in July 2021. Come visit the great sailing ships and the sights and activities of Turku and the archipelago. www.tallshipsturku.fi

CONTENTS Welcome to Turku 6 Into the great ice open 8 Turku timeline 10 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 14 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 16 Citius, Altius, Politicus 18 Gem of a museum in the Cathedral 21 Confessions of a hotel room writer – Column by Roope Lipasti 24

Turku Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2020 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN 2342-2823 (print) ISSN 2669-8285 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor in chief Roope Lipasti Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

8

18

21

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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos River Aura. Photo: Vesa Aaltonen / Visit Turku The Old Great Square Christmas Market.

Photo: Arvo Malmi / Visit Turku Restaurant in Turku. Photo: Visit Turku Ice Swimming. Photo: Visit Turku Roope Lipasti. Photo: Riikka Kantinkoski

Turku Times map application for mobile phones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi.

Turku Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 16). The next issue will be out in April 2021.

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Welcome to Turku

C

City by the river and the sea

oronavirus prevention has changed lives around the world and had a profound impact on mobility and tourism. This has been the case in Turku as well, and we are doing everything we can to make sure that both domestic and international tourists can enjoy their visit to the city safely.

Turku is Finland’s oldest city. We take advantage of our history, live in the here and now, and look to the future. In 2029, we will celebrate the 800th anniversary of Turku, and the city is already preparing for the jubilee year in numerous ways.

The most visible project at the moment is the large-scale redevelopment of the inner city into a pleasant market square with splendid pedestrian, cycling and recreational facilities.

The most notable and far-reaching target for the jubilee year is for Turku to become carbon neutral by 2029, and after that a climate positive city. This target will be reached in cooperation with the city’s residents and communities.

I would also like to take this opportunity to invite you to participate in our joint effort to combat climate change by favouring delicious and clean local food, for example.

The River Aura is the heart of Turku. The easiest way to familiarise yourself with Turku is by walking or cycling along the riverside. The route from Turku Cathedral to Turku Castle is steeped in history and life. Along the river, you can find beautiful scenery, museums and the magnificent Main Library as well as high-quality cafés and restaurants, which are perfect for taking a break from walking.

Shops and department stores are close to one another in the city centre. The Market Square and Market Hall are definitely worth checking out, as it is there that you will find the most authentic local products.

The sea and nature are inseparable parts of Turku. The island of Ruissalo off the coast of the city is perfect for letting your mind rest, no matter what time of year you visit it. The island is famous for its 19th century villas, oak forests, nature trails and the Ruisrock festival.

You can easily get to the island by Föli bus or citybike. In the winter season, the citybikes are equipped with studded tyres.

For culture lovers, Turku offers lots of interesting events: concerts, theatre, fairs, museums, art exhibitions and festivals all year round and for all tastes.

Turku is a small large city. There are a total of around 195,000 residents in Turku. However, the city also has six universities with around 40,000 students and university teachers. This guarantees that we have wide-ranging know-how in the city. Our universities are international, and the only Swedish university in Finland, Åbo Akademi, is the gem of the city.

The cooperation between the universities, the City and businesses aims to make Turku and the Turku region number one in the Baltic Sea region in terms of growth and development. The spearhead fields in Turku are the maritime industry, bio and circular economy, health and well-being, manufacturing and technology industry and creative fields.

I am a native of Turku and the city is everything to me. This is why I hope that Turku will leave a lasting impression on every visitor, and to get them to visit again.

Minna Arve mayor of Turku

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Photos: Timo Jakonen | Layout: Erkki Kiiski

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➤ Turku Cathedral Tuomiokirkonkatu 1

✴ When you visit this wonderful shrine, you step into Finland´s long history as a part of Sweden and later of the Russian Empire (1809–1917).

The Roman Catholic era ended with a Protestant Reformation in the 16th Century. During Finland’s 103 years of independence the Evangelical Lutheran Church has been a folk church. Turku Cathedral is the central church of the Lutheran Archdiocese of Turku and the seat of the Lutheran Archbishop of Finland, Tapio Luoma. ✴ Finland’s only medieval cathedral and national shrine was consecrated in 1300. ✴ Guide booklets are on sale at the Information desk. ✴ You can use your mobile phone or tablet to find out about the Cathedral and its closed tomb chapels. ✴ Open daily, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

www.turunseurakunnat.fi

➤ Christmas Season

✴ Turku has a special atmosphere for Christmas.

Before the Season of Advent, the City’s Christmas tree is placed in front of the Cathedral. Its hundreds of lights bring joy to Turku city dwellers.

Winter in Turku Cathedral ➤ Services in English

✴ Turku Cathedral International Congregation has regular services in English every Sunday at 4 pm.

➤ Thank you for helping to stop the spread of the Covid-19 coronavirus. Maintain safe social distances, wash or sanitize your hands, and wear a mask.

photo: Turku Winter Outdoor Swimmers Club

Into the great ice open

Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman

T

Yes, in Finland people swim outdoors

in the winter. Ice swimming is both healthy and fun.

here it is: the hole sawed in the ice that you’re supposed to jump into and swim – or at least take a dip. The sea stares back at you through that opening, black and cold, and not terribly inviting. But there’s nothing for it. Into the water you go! No point standing around shivering on the dock! Brrr...barely above freezing, at first the water takes your breath away, and even though more experienced bathers really do swim, a beginner climbs out almost as soon as he gets in.

But as soon as you’re back on the dock, a pleasant feeling spreads over your whole body, maybe tingling here and there and leaving you a little breathless, but the air feels warm, and you can really feel the blood coursing through your veins full of hormones that make you feel euphoric and young again.

Next you head to the sauna, where hot steam warms your arms and legs, and soon you’re sweating out all the cares and stress of daily life. Ice swimming gives you

what your body needs: either refreshment or relaxation, depending on what you need and how you feel.

Come and join the fun!

Ice swimming may sound a little extreme to some, but it continues to gain popularity in Finland. Every big city has several places where you can do it. And because Finland has 187,888 lakes in addition to the coastline, you can DIY it, too.

Tanja Kortet of the Turku Winter Outdoor Swimmers Club says that their group alone has 750 members and they heat their sauna five days a week in the winter. It fits 60 people at a time and is often full. The sauna is mixed, but women and men have their own dressing rooms with lockers. There are also showers to wash the seawater away.

Anyone can join in. All you need is a swimsuit and a towel.

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“If you want, you can wear slippers to insulate you from the cold or a cap and gloves, which let you stay in the water a little longer.”

Most winter swimmers do have a sauna after being in the water, but some don’t sauna at all.

“Some people like to swim without a sauna, which keeps the endorphins going all day! On the other hand, the sauna prolongs the fun because you can take breaks to warm up. The variation between hot and cold makes you feel great,” says Kortet.

students. The youngest competitor in the last Finnish championships was 2 years old, and the oldest was 88. The most active group is probably the 40–60 crowd, both men and women.”

Ice swimming is healthy

photo: Turku Winter Outdoor Swimmers Club

photo: Roope Lipasti

The ancient ancestors of the Finns almost certainly practiced ice swimming, but in more recent times, ice swimming was related to treatments for rheumatism. Cold therapy was The most important thing is developed when it was found to alleviate pain.

ICE SWIMMING GIVES YOU overcoming yourself In addition to decreasing pain, the cold also WHAT YOUR BODY NEEDS: increases the secretion of pleasure hormones.

EITHER REFRESHMENT OR In Southern Finland, the sea doesn’t always And that isn’t all. Kortet rattles off a long RELAXATION. freeze at all anymore, but that doesn’t get list of health benefits: regular ice swimming in the way of ice swimming. The water has a positive effect on mood and increases temperature is more or less the same in the winter with or without immune response. The cold enhances muscle recovery from exercise ice – just above freezing. There’s actually been a linguistic change with and also makes it easier to sleep. In addition, sauna lowers blood ice swimming often being referred to as winter swimming these days. pressure after the cold temporarily raises it, but overall, the effect Even though the thought of swimming in ice-cold water may is lower blood pressure. Ice swimming is also a stress killer, it be startling, it isn’t dangerous. On the contrary, a healthy body can constricts peripheral blood circulation, and noradrenaline makes withstand the cold. But if you suffer from a heart condition, then you feel like you just won Tanja Kortet you should consult a doctor before climbing in. Swimming alone is something! Dopamine and also not recommended. It’s always safer with a friend, since you never endorphins decrease symptoms know when you might trip or slip. The cold also won’t give you the of depression. flu or any other illness, although if you intend to stay in the water a “Of course, there’s also a social really long time, there is the danger of hypothermia. aspect, since ice swimming is “That isn’t usually a problem, especially since beginners tend to get usually something we do in a out of the water very quickly. The most important thing in this sport group. We sit in the sauna, we is to listen to yourself and swim as much as feels good,” says Kortet. swim, and we chat with friends Even though ice swimming is all about overcoming your own and strangers,” Kortet explains. limitations, there are competitions. What else would you expect? In And if that all isn’t enough, Finland, the race distance is usually 25 meters. The rules are a little the cold also promotes fat different than in normal swim races, though. For example, you can’t burning as it speeds up the put your head under the water when doing the breaststroke. metabolism. Unfortunately, one “Right now, this is a pretty fashionable sport. Before it was mostly swim hasn’t had much effect on senior citizens, but now there are a lot of young people, too, especially the undersigned. s

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photos: City of Turku

Turku timeline

Written by Roope Lipasti

1229

1634

1917

The Pope orders the bishopric to be moved from Nousiainen to the new city of Turku. By the river Aura in Koroinen, there is a white memorial cross standing in the place where the Bishop’s little castle once was. It is a nice place to visit, as is the entire riverbank, where one can walk or go jogging.

The first map of Turku is published, and for a good reason, too: there were already 6,000 habitants, so the city was huge!

Finland declares independence.

1300 The Turku cathedral is inaugurated. It is the most beautiful cathedral in Finland. Not least because it is also the only proper cathedral in Finland.

1308 The first documented mention of the Turku Castle, although the construction probably began as early as the 1280s. Builders in Turku were in no hurry, as the castle wasn’t completed until 1588. The most magnificent Renaissance period in the history of Finland was seen in Turku castle during the reign of Catharina Jagiellon and Duke John (later king John III) 1562–1563.

1640 The University of Turku is established.

Nowadays, Turku is still a renowned city of higher education with more than 40,000 students studying at six universities.

1642 Finlands first printing house is established in Turku. It prints books, among them the thesis Aboa Vetus et Nova by Mr Daniel Juslenius (1676–1752), in which he studies the birth of Turku. His conclusion was that the people in Turku are decendants of Jaafet, the third son of Noah.

Sweden loses Finland to Russia in 1809, and in 1812 Helsinki is declared as the new capital – something that still slightly upsets people in Turku.

1414

1827 Turku burns down and almost the whole city must be built again, which is the reason why Turku doesn’t have a medieval centre anymore.

Turku is not quite a Hanseatic city, but almost.

It is one of the major cities in Sweden and its international trade is significant.

1543

1939–1945 Finland is at war with Russia. Turku suffers great damage during the bombings, among other buildings the castle is partly burned.

1956, 1976, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1993, 1995, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2010.

TPS, the biggest ice-hockey club in Turku, wins the Finnish championship

1812

The first bridge over river Aura is built. It was called The Pennybridge.

1500

1922 The University of Turku is established again, since the original Academy was moved to Helsinki after the great fire in 1827. Åbo Akademi University, the only university in Finland with Swedish as official language, was founded in 1918. (Åbo is the name of Turku in Swedish.)

1960–1980 Turku suffers from the so called “Turku sickness” – meaning that many beautiful old buildings were demolished in order to be replaced with modern blockhouses.

2011 Turku is the European Capital of Culture.

1900

2020

A Christmas tree with electric lights is erected in front of the Cathedral. This became a tradition and it is still going on every Christmas.

Turku is the sixth largest city in Finland with 193,000 inhabitants. It also is one of the nicest cities and most popular holiday destinations in Finland, with its historical attractions and magnificent archipelago. s

Mikael Agricola, the father of written Finnish, publishes his first book. It is also a milestone of Protestantism in Finland.

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MEDITERRANEAN DELICACIES

BY THE RIVERSIDE Restaurant Gustavo invites you to enjoy Mediterranean specialities with a Scandinavian twist!

• Wines & pintxos • Naples style pizza • Summer terrace menu • A’la carte dinner

Kakolanruusu is a restaurant in one of the most unique environments in Finland - the old Kakola prison.

You can also choose takeaway or delivery by Wolt.

BOOK YOUR TABLE: www.kakolanruusu.fi p. +358 44 223 0200

Reservations and information: www.gustavo.fi/en Tel. +358 46 9222 488 • Linnankatu 1, Turku

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Wine Bar Viinille

is a small and cosy specialist wine restaurant in Turku’s centre.

A selection of over 200 wines, most of which are reasonably priced and sold by the glass. Small pastries, olives, chorizo sausage as well as tasty cheeses perfectly compliment the beverages.

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Finland's Hannes Kolehmainen breaks the tape to win gold in men's 5000m final in a new world record time of 14min 36.6 from France's Jean Bouin, who took silver in Stockholm Olympic Games 1912.

Citius, Altius, Politicus Sports and politics have always been closely

intertwined, and Finland has been more involved in this than many of its residents might think.

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Owen F. Witesman

T

he statement “we need to keep politics out of sports” often really means “human rights are a luxury we don’t have the time or resources for.”

This kind of thinking has been used to justify granting major events to dictatorships and maintaining connections with sports programs in repressive states. In Finland, this subject recently hit the headlines again due to the situation in Belarus, where citizens took to the streets to demand the resignation of President Alexander Lukashenko following a fraudulent election. As these events began to unfold, the international hockey community began to discuss whether the 2021 Ice Hockey World Championships could be held in Belarus.

Problems deepened as the opening game of the Kontinental Hockey League (KHL) season approached, since the Helsinki Jokerit were set to play in Belarus. At first it seemed as if the team really was going to play, but in the end the Jokerit agreed to cancel the match at the last moment (on the actual day). In Russia, the Jokerit were accused of insulting the league and mixing politics with sports, which is of course absurd on its face since the whole KHL is a political project by Russia and Putin.

The connections between sports and politics were familiar to Finns long before this autumn.

Finland entered the sporting world’s consciousness at the Stockholm Olympics in 1912. The country was still a part of Russia at the time but received special permission to field its own team, as did a few other dependent countries. Because Finland was not allowed to use its own 18

photo: Alexander Zemlianichenko / AFP / Lehtikuva

flag, the team entered the stadium during the opening ceremonies During the Cold War, Finland tried to walk a tightrope of neutrality under the white and blue banner of the Helsinki Gymnastics Club. between East and West. One polite way of describing this policy of However, the flag raised during the medal ceremony was Russian, as restraint was that Finland preferred to be a doctor than a judge.

Hannes Kolehmainen, who won three gold medals, remembered This was also evident in sports, with Finland steering clear of the with bitterness: “I almost would have rather lost than been forced Olympic boycotts of Moscow and Los Angeles. From the perspective to look at that flag.” of competitive success, the latter was particularly beneficial for A British politician, Olympic medalist and Nobel Peace Prize Finland: Arto Härkönen took the gold in javelin with a throw of winner, Philip Noel-Baker disagreed: “That flag was forgotten instantly, 86.76 meters even though the world record from the same year was but his brilliant battle with Bouin made a decisive contribution to 104.80 m (Uwe Hohn), and Juha Tiainen won the hammer despite Finland’s independence.” his winning throw of 78.08 m was Because of their success, the more than 3.5 meters shorter than “I ALMOST WOULD HAVE RATHER LOST THAN Finnish team received ample Yuriy Sedkyh’s four years earlier. column space in newspapers Nowadays the world is BEEN FORCED TO LOOK AT THAT FLAG.” around the world, for example different, and more and more – HANNES KOLEHMAINEN in the prestigious Sporting Life people want to take a stand and magazine, which expressed its show their support for the weak admiration in this unique way: “Among the athletes, the Finns and oppressed. “Racism is a huge problem, and silence is not an attracted the most attention with their strangely shaped skulls. A option,” said Finland national football team captain Tim Sparv after small but amazing team.” the team knelt before a Nations League match at Wales to show their However, as has happened many times since, the international support for the Black Lives Matter movement. attention and empathy afforded to an oppressed people at the Games Still, sometimes it feels like there is nothing new under the sun: was soon forgotten, and Russia tightened its grip. Finland’s special In AD 67, Nero participated in the ancient Olympic chariot race, status was rescinded, and Finns who headed for the 1916 Berlin where he was declared victor even though he didn’t even cross the Olympics would have had to compete as part of the Russian team. finish line. In 2019, President Putin scored eight goals in a charity However, the World War put a stop to the Games, and the Finnish match featuring former top Russian hockey stars. According to the athletes were not forced to choose between their ambitions and Reuters news agency, “[p]laying center forward, Putin was provided their dignity. with plenty of scoring opportunities by his linemates and was met with little resistance by the opposing team’s defense.” s After the bloody civil war that followed independence in 1918, the Finnish Gymnastics and Sports Association (SVUL) ejected all of the Russian President Vladimir Putin and Belarusian President Alexander clubs that had fought on the Red side in the civil war, who formed Lukashenko (not in picture) take part in an ice hockey match at Rosa Khutor outside the Black Sea resort of Sochi on February 2020 as part of Lukashenko's the Workers’ Sports Association (TUL) the following year. SVUL visit to Russia. chose Finland’s representatives for the Olympics, and those who switched associations in pursuit of their Olympic dreams added to the bitterness between the camps. These “turncoats” brought Finland 23 of our 140 Olympic medals from 1920–36.

TUL athletes participated in the Workers’ Olympics, which were held three times in the 1920s and 1930s, and Finland was the most successful country in these games. This may be the least known piece of trivia in sports-crazy Finland. Political struggles were also present within the TUL. The clubs and athletes who participated in the 1928 Spartakiad organized by the Soviet Union were suspended or banned from competition.

The Winter War and a common enemy united the Finns, and in the games organized in July 1940 to memorialize the fallen, athletes from both associations participated. This did not, however, usher in an era of perfect bliss, because even in 1960, sending European champion boxer Olli Mäki to the Olympics would have required him resigning from the TUL. Mäki refused and went without a spot on the Olympic team. Later, Mäki also won the European championship as a professional and was the first Finn to fight in a world championship bout.

During the Winter War, Finland made use of its sporting reputation by sending Paavo Nurmi, along with another great runner, Taisto Mäki, to tour the United States and collect money for the war effort.

A convertible carried the pair down Broadway with thirty young women dressed in Finnish national costumes carrying a gigantic Finnish flag, onto which people threw money from the sidewalks and windows.

19

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Gem of a museum in the Cathedral The objects on display

at the Turku Cathedral

Museum tell the story of

the Church of Finland and

Finnish society both before and after the Reformation.

Its location under the

beautiful arches of the

Cathedral, along with the

exhibits, make this museum unique.

Text by Heidi Pelander Translated by Sara Torvalds

Few people visit Turku without noticing the Cathedral, a city landmark and the main church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland. Yet, not even all the locals know that its ancient, vaulted ceilings also shelter a museum.

To visit the Turku Cathedral Museum, you only need to buy an inexpensive ticket in the entry hall of the Cathedral, and then climb the stairs to the south gallery. Its peaceful atmosphere provides a perfect environment for viewing a collection of objects, the ages of which range from the Middle Ages to the nineteenth century.

“The objects on display offer visitors an opportunity to travel in time to various periods of Finnish history,” suggests the museum’s deputy curator Laura Ruohonen. The Cathedral, consecrated in the year 1300, was significantly important to medieval society. The objects acquired for the Cathedral represent the best workmanship of their time.

“The objects at the museum’s collection are unique, both artistically and for their role in Finnish cultural history.”

The Turku Cathedral Museum was founded in 1929, when restoration work was undertaken at the Cathedral – and luckily not before then. Luckily, because for centuries earlier the valuables had been stored in the Cathedral’s sacristy, which inadvertently saved them from subsequent fires in the Cathedral proper.

21

photo: Timo Jakonen

The medieval wooden Pietà is displayed in a glass case in the middle of the museum.

PARISHIONERS WOULD DONATE AN OBJECT TO

Snapshots of their time

THE CHURCH IN RETURN FOR AN INDULGENCE,

The oldest objects on display date from the pre-Reformation time, when Turku was part of the Kingdom of Sweden. When it was a Catholic Cathedral, it had various altars, each dedicated to a different saint with its own set of Communion ware, textiles and statues of saints.

“Only a fraction of the objects that were in use at that time has survived to our day,” says Ruohonen. Most of the medieval objects in the museum are carved wooden statues of saints, devotional statues and altar silverware.

Some of the relics that were in use in the Turku Cathedral in the medieval times have also survived and are now exhibited in the museum.

Before the Reformation, there was indulgence trading in objects.

Parishioners would donate an object to the Church in return for an indulgence, the granting of remission of the temporal punishment for a sin.

The Reformation came to Finland when Gustavus Vasa was elected King of Sweden in 1523. The following year, the King cut off ties to the Pope and Sweden separated from the Roman Catholic Church. The Reformation also had an impact on the fate of objects that had been used in the Catholic liturgy.

“The change from Catholic to Lutheran took almost until the end of the sixteenth century,” explains Ruohonen. “Over that period, the side altars of the Cathedral were removed, objects were confiscated and the sculptures of saints that were no longer used were placed in the stone-built sacristy, where they were spared from destruction by subsequent fires.”

THE GRANTING OF REMISSION OF THE TEMPORAL PUNISHMENT FOR A SIN.

metal lace. The textiles are exhibited at the back of the museum.

Some of the vestments are in drawers under the display case at the back wall.

Laura Ruohonen notes that the appreciation of local goldsmiths increased again in the eighteenth century and the Church turned to skilled artisans in Turku for new acquisitions.

In addition to the historical objects displayed in the museum, there are presentations explaining the various stages of building the Cathedral. The church building itself was enlarged numerous times and for the last time in the seventeenth century. In 1827, the bell tower and a large part of the interior of the Cathedral were severely damaged in the Great Fire of Turku.

The current tower was created by the German architect Carl Ludvig Engel, who undertook most of his work in Finland. The miniatures in the museum show how different the Cathedral of the late fourteenth century was compared to the Cathedral today.

European gifts from the nobility

photo: Timo Jakonen

The museum collection includes objects in silver and pewter as well as Church textiles dating back to the post-Reformation period, from the 17th through 19th century. Most of these objects were gifts from the nobility in memory of their dead loved ones.

“Objects from the seventeenth century were often decorated with the coat of arms, a dedication or the initials of their donor. As the nobility looked to Europe, many of the objects were made by German, Swedish and Baltic goldsmiths.”

The vestments of that time were made of the finest cloth available, such as Italian and French velvet decorated with embroidery and

The Ejby Chalice and the wooden Pietà sculpture are displayed in glass cases as focal points in the museum.

22

Short glossary In the museum you will encounter church-related words. This list will get you started!

Chalice – The cup from which Communion wine is offered to parishioners.

Paten – The plate from which Communion bread is offered to parishioners.

Chalice veil – The cloth that covers the chalice before communion.

Burse – A protective case for the chalice veil.

Ciborium – A container for the Communion bread.

Alb – A long white garment that is part of the priest’s or minister’s liturgical vestments.

Stole – A sign of spiritual office, especially in Western churches.

A priest or minister wears it over the alb.

Chasuble – An outer vestment worn over the alb and stole by the main celebrant of the liturgy of a communion service.

Relic – A piece of the body of a saint or an item that has belonged to a saint and has been consecrated through him or her. s

of the Turku Cathedral Museum

The Ejby Chalice

The wooden Pietà

Cassock from 1645

The Ejby Chalice, a decorative goblet from the fifteenth century, is one of the oldest and best-known objects exhibited in the Turku Cathedral Museum. This gilded silver chalice was made in Turku in the 1480s. The decorative foot of the chalice was made by a local goldsmith. Included on its foot are depictions of the head of Christ and the Virgin Mary, as well as the coats of arms of its donors.

The beautiful chalice was only used in the Cathedral for about twenty years, after which it and many other treasures were taken as loot by the Danes under the leadership of Otte Rud in 1509.

The chalice ended up in the church of Ejby in Zealand, Denmark. In the 1920s, the chalice was traced back to Turku thanks to, among other clues, the coats of arms depicted on it.

“It is said there was a people’s movement in Ejby to return the chalice to Turku. It was returned to the Cathedral in 1925.

The cup of the chalice was renewed in Denmark in 1851,” says deputy curator Laura Ruohonen.

The Cathedral’s Pietà is a medieval devotional statue carved from oak in western Germany, probably around 1380–1400. The sculpture of the Virgin Mary shows her looking down at the body of Christ who she has cradled on her lap after he was taken down from the Cross.

Pietà is an Italian word meaning pity and compassion. This form of sculpture originated in Germany in the early 14th century and by the 15th century sculptures were spread to Italy. “The imagery became very popular in Europe and was often applied to sculpture,” explains Ruohonen.

Looking closely, one can see remnants of colour on the sculpture. The Virgin Mary had been depicted wearing light-coloured clothing with floral decorations in red and blue-green. The undergarments were golden in colour.

The sculpture was most likely acquired for the then Corpus Christi Chapel, known today as the Tavast Chapel, which is the burial place of several bishops, soldiers and other people of note.

The power of the nobility in Finland was at its peak in the 17th century and many of the objects from that time, which are now in the Cathedral, were donated by noble families. In 1645, Christina Horn, of the influential Horn family, donated to the Church a cassock of purple velvet, an altar cloth and two silver wine bottles.

Christina Horn was the widow of General Torsten Stålhandske, who made a name for himself in the Thirty Years’ War. The couple had been married for only a short time before his death, after which the widow donated the valuables to the Cathedral in his memory.

The images on the surface of the cross depicted on the back of the cassock are embroidered in pearls, gold and silver. The crucifixion image is appliquéd in silver brocade and white satin silk.

Monograms of the donors are also embroidered on the cassock.

Christina Horn also paid to use the All Souls Chapel, built in the Cathedral in the 1420s, as a burial chapel for her family. Today, the chapel is known as the Stålhandske Chapel.

TURKU CATHEDRAL MUSEUM The Turku Cathedral Museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. During church services the museum is closed.

Tickets: 2 euro for adults, 1 euro for concessions (students, unemployed, pensioners). Tickets are purchased at the desk in the Cathedral entry hall.

SEE GREEN NUMBER 3 ON MAP (PAGE 15).

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photos: Timo Jakonen

Three jewels

TURKU TI MES

COLUMN

Confessions of a Hotel

Room Writer Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman

B

elieve it or not, writing books isn’t always a bed of roses.

In reality, there are only three nice moments: The first is the initial five minutes when you believe anything is possible! The second is when you finally get that damn millstone finished and off your neck. And then the final and most enjoyable time is made up of the events and celebrations when the book has been sent out into the world and hopefully finds its readers.

This final point often involves hotels.

That is to say, as an author you get to travel around the country attending different events and visiting schools, libraries, and conventions, many of which are far away enough that you have the privilege and necessity of staying the night away from home.

But no matter how tight the tour schedule or how much I have to work and slave to make a living, meaning talk, talk, talk, I still always think of every night in a hotel as a mini vacation. The momentary change of scenery from the room I usually sleep in can be amazingly satisfying! To get to sleep on a wide bed stretched out like a starfish, all alone. Of course, being at home is nice too – hi, honey, if you’re reading this – but the change can be refreshing.

And then what about that breakfast! Is there any greater luxury than to have someone else make your breakfast, and a good, generous one at that? The last time that happened outside of a hotel, 24

photo: Envato

I always ask if the hotel has a room with a bathtub, and if it does,

I spend the rest of the night smiling.

Over the years, I’ve developed certain hotel routines. First, I always ask if the hotel has a room with a bathtub, and if it does, I spend the rest of the night smiling. I can get along without one, but a tub is a nice perk. The next thing I do after arriving at a hotel is to take a jog.

Running is a great way to get to know a new area. This is a quick tool for getting the lay of the land.

But the best comes last: sitting down in the tub after a run, enjoying a cold beverage, and reading a magazine, preferably something quality like the Economist. This really helps me get to the core of my personal snobbery, because what could be more luxurious! And to top it all off, it’s a luxury that doesn’t cost too much.

A hotel room is also the perfect place for a little retreat, for recovering and having some quiet time. When you’ve spent the whole day speaking in a school, a night alone in your room is fantastic. Maybe you can go out to eat, too, but then get right back to the room. In a hotel room, you can be left in peace. No one demands anything, and no one bothers you. You can sit in bed in your underwear, scroll Facebook, read a book, or take a nap – the kind of outrageous indolence and anarchy that I never allow myself at home.

And I couldn’t if I wanted to, because at home there’s always something to do, whether it’s transporting a child to or from their activities, cleaning the kitchen, folding the laundry, working, or whatever. But in a hotel room, you can’t actually do much of anything, and that’s exactly why it’s such a perfect place.

Granted, you can do some kinds of work, at least if you’re a writer.

Just pick up your laptop and start typing. A hotel room is an excellent place for writing, since there are no distractions. Actually, a few times I’ve gone to a hotel for the express purpose of working, because a change of scenery can be useful.

And it’s pretty nice at the end of the day to slip down to the lobby and have a drink like some kind of man of the world. A minute at the bar and you might start believing it yourself. s

Roope Lipasti is the new editor-in-chief of Times Magazines Finland.

He is also a novelist who tends to live a pretty boring life in the countryside in an old farmhouse.

Photo: Riikka Kantinkoski

I was thirteen years old and my mom was in an uncharacteristically good mood. But her breakfasts never compared to any hotel breakfast.

16

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