Turku Times 2/17

2/2017

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

Welcome to Turku

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

100 years of winter sports in Finland

Celebrating the 50th anniversary of Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art

A NIGHT IN A HOTEL

A column by Anna-Leena Härkönen

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WELCOME TO TURKU! Urban legends since 1229 MUSIC TURKU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AND TURKU CONCERT HALL Aninkaistenkatu 9 Turku Philharmonic Orchestra offers a wide range of concerts from September to May both in Turku Concert Hall and in the many historical venues of Turku and the beautiful archipelago. The weekly symphony concerts feature guest artists from Finland and abroad. The orchestra’s 74 musicians are since 2012 enjoying the artistic leadership of world renowned Chief Conductor Leif Segerstam. tfo.fi/en

I love the way old and new parts of the library are merged into a space full of literature’s joy and knowledge.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

- A customer review on Tripadvisor

in Kupittaa area, just about 2 km from the city centre ADVENTURE PARK

LIBRARY TURKU CITY LIBRARY Linnankatu 2 Open every day, Turku City Library is set in the impressive architecture of two buildings combined as a whole.

The library features several areas for events and exhibitions as well as plenty of places to read. The visitor can delve into the thousands of journals in either paper or electronic format. A wireless network is available in all areas for the use of laptops, but visitors also have access to multiple computers. turku.fi/en/turku-city-library

(Seikkailupuisto) is a cultural centre for children and families, located on the edges of the Kupittaanpuisto-park area.

Adventure Park is open all year round and best suitable for children aged 0 to 12.

During the summer the park’s attractions include a shower sponge, a wading pool, a brook that twists around the park and a traffic town. During the winter season, there’s plenty to do in the park’s indoor facilities, including club and theatre activities, music play schools and open art workshops. turku.fi/en/adventure-park-seikkailupuisto

KUPITTAA SPORTS CENTER is an excellent place to spend an active day with family, or a perfect place for the active enthusiast or spectator sports-

man, in any season. The area contains for example football fields, Finnish baseball fields and outdoor swimming pool in summertime. Kupittaa offers lots of possibilities to exercise also from autumn to spring. Visitors may use free of charge roller coaster or artificial ice skating rink in winter, outdoor gym, many courts and BMX track. turku.fi/en/sports

turku.fi/en/culture-and-sports

MUSEUMS TURKU CASTLE Linnankatu 80 Tue–Sun 10–18 The fortress of Turku Castle has stood at the edge of the river Aura since the 1280’s.

During its history it has been a defensive bastion, a majestic court, an administrative centre, and a prison. Nowadays the castle is a must visit tourist attraction in Turku.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Tue–Sun 10–18 The Wäinö Aaltonen museum is dedicated to the late, Turku born sculptor and operates as a city art museum along the shores of the river Aura. Offerings include changing exhibitions, new and experimental art projects as well as various cultural events.

• Game of Power - Reformation in Finland • Body Image until 14 Jan • Hannu Väisänen – The four rooms of Anna Akhmatova from 9 Feb

BIOLOGICAL MUSEUM Neitsytpolku 1 Tue–Sun 9–17 The Turku Biological Museum is a Diorama-Museum that resides in a beautiful Art Nouveau building. Thirteen nature scenes present natural landscapes in Finland, from Turku’s archipelago all the way to the fells of Lapland. The museum is a great experience for all those interested in nature and cultural history.

CHRISTAMAS TIME IN MUSEUMS Around Christmas time, the museums present Finnish Christmas tables from different centuries. In Turku Castle, Duke John celebrated with gingerbread cookies, marzipan, and spiced Rhine wine. Per Brahe’s Christmas table was put together around a swan, feathers and all. Christmas diners during the the rococo period feasted on jellies, ham, and bouillon. President of the Court of Appeal Montgomery had a real Christmas

tree. The various halls and chambers of the Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House present Chrismas delicacies enjoyed by 18th century bourgeoisie. The Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum showcases popular 19th century Christmas dinners.

Turku Castle (Linnankatu 80) 1 Dec–6 Jan Tue–Sun 10–18 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum (Vartiovuorenkatu 2) 25 Mar–6 Jan Tue–Sun 10–16 Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House (Itäinen Rantakatu 13b), 25 Mar–6 Jan Tue–Sun 10–18 turku.fi/en/museum

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TAKE A SHOPPING BREAK IN SKANSSI! Find over 90 shops and services!

TEE OSTOSRETKI SKANSSIIN! Löydä yli 90 liikettä ja palvelua!

EASY AC CESS T TRANSPO O PUBLIC RTATION

Busses 9 , 90, 99 and 221 will take you to S Check th kanssi. e timeta bles from foli.fi

HYVÄT J ULKISET KULKUY HTEYDET

SHOP IN SKANSSI! We’re open every day Shopping Centre Skanssi Skanssinkatu 10, Turku Mon–fri 8–21 | Sat 8–19 | Sun 11–18 Check exceptions skanssi.fi

Bussilinja t 9, 90, 9 9 ja 221 vievät sin ut Skans siin.

Tarkista aikataulu t foli.fi

SKANSSII SHOPPAILLA! Auki joka päivä Kauppakeskus Skanssi Skanssinkatu 10, Turku Ma–pe 8–21 | La 8–19 | Su 11–18 Liikekohtaiset aukioloajat skanssi.fi

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Kaikkien aikojen suurin fantasiaseikkailu

KRUUNAA TURUN VIERAILUSI! ESITYKSET 15.2. ALKAEN TURUN KAUPUNGINTEATTERISSA. TÄTÄ ET NÄE MUUALLA!

Varaa liput: 02 262 0030 tai lippu.fi.

CONTENTS Welcome to Turku 8 100 years of winter sports in Finland 10 Selected services & places 13 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 14 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 16 The golden girl from 1929 makes her public debut – celebrating the 50th anniversary of Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art 18 A night in a hotel – A column by Anna-Leena Härkönen 24

Turku Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2017 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN: 2342-2823 Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover Photos from left to right & up to down: Skating at Kupittaa Park. Photo: Jaska Poikonen / City of Turku Swedish Theater. Photo: Valentino Valkaj / City of Turku The Old Great Square Christmas Market. Photo: Visit Turku Main Library. Photo: Gunnar Hognas / City of Turku Turku Cathedral. Photo: Visit Turku Ice Swimming. Photo: Visit Turku Anna-Leena Härkönen. Photo: Jouni Harala

Turku Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi.

Turku Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 16). Next Turku Times issue is out in April 2018.

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photo: City of Turku

Welcome to Turku The city of Turku recently published a new strategy for the year 2050. From now on, we strive to grow, to

develop, and to be seen as the European Archipelago City.

What do we mean by that – and what’s in it for you?

T

he history of Turku spans over nine centuries, so there’s a lot to write about. This long story begins with the bishop’s seat moving to Turku in 1229 and continues with a cathedral, a castle, and the status of a wealthy Hansa city in the Middle Ages.

For centuries, Turku soared as the gateway of all new things spreading from abroad to Finland. The Finnish Reformation, the Turku Academy, the consumer goods of the Hansa ships – all our most interesting imports came via Turku. But the 1800’s brought some major setbacks. The capital status of Turku was handed over to Helsinki in 1812. The Great Fire of Turku in 1827 didn’t help to keep up, either.

For about a century Turku was struggling to have a future as great as its past. That’s why I’m so glad to see that Turku is back on a track – we are again a city making history, not just relying on it. The regional economy, based on ship building, luxury cars, bio sciences, and creative industries is leading the way for economic growth throughout Finland and the cultural life of the city flourishes with the economy.

Written by Anne-Marget Héllen Director of Tourism, City of Turku / Visit Turku

In this sweet situation, Turku has updated its strategy to meet the demands of the future. We have to know our strenghts in order to strenghten them even more.

There’s one thing about Turku that differentiates it from all the other cities in the world. The Turku Archipelago. This amazing natural wonder consists of approximately 40.000 island and islets, extending from Turku all the way to Åland and Stockholm. The magic of the islands is within everyone’s reach, locals and visitors alike.

According to the new Turku city strategy, connections from the city to the inner archipelago will be upgraded to both increase the quality of life of the inhabitants and to respect the unique natural habitat.

As the director of tourism in Turku, I couldn’t be happier with the direction that the city is heading. After all, we in Visit Turku have had this vision for many years: Turku – city culture in the arms of the archipelago.

You are warmly welcome! And don’t forget to enjoy our great restaurant scene – among other good things, we have gained a reputation as the Food Capital of Finland. s

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photo: SPORTS MUSEUM OF FINLAND

100 years of

winter sports in Finland Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

Winter sports have played an important role in the grand narrative of Finnishness throughout the 100-year independency of the nation.

We give you ten small chapters from the great story.

Matti Lähde sending Kalle Jalkanen for the anchor leg in the Olympic cross-country skiing relay in Garmisch-Partenkirchen 1936.

Chapter 1: The first star Newly independent Finland was keen to make herself known for the world and success in the sporting arenas offered a possibility to attain fame. The best mannequin for the nation was naturally Paavo Nurmi in track and field, but he operated in the summertime. His equivalent in winter sports was Clas Thurnberg, also known as “the Nurmi of the skating rinks”. He took five Olympic golds in speed skating. Thurnberg reminded his more famous counterpart in stubbornnes as well: he refused to take part in the 1932 Winter Olympics in Lake Placid, because he considered the mass start rules as utter foolery.

Chapter 2: The poor man’s false teeth

JALKANEN

is happy: he reaches the Norwegian again, overtakes him and takes Finland to Olympic victory.

Chapter 3: The magical numbers In the Finnish minds the year 1952 is fixed as the year when the dark shadow of the wartime finally starts to fade. Helsinki hosts the Summer Olympic games and the war reparation payments for Soviet Union are finally fulfilled.

Already the very beginning of year 1952 shows promise: Veikko Hakulinen takes the Olympic gold medal in Oslo in the 50 km skiing. Even more unforgettable than the winning itself is his magical winning time: 3 hours, 33 minutes TURNS BACK and 33 seconds.

ON THE SKI TRACK AND In between the two World Wars, Finland was still so poor a country that a top class skier would FETCHES HIS TEETH Chapter 4: In a wrong company risk the Olympic gold for his false teeth. It is The Squaw Valley Olympics in 1960. The national year 1936 and the Garmisch-Partenkirch Olympics. A minute after ice hockey team of Finland has arrived with great expectations, the Norwegian Bjarne Ivarsen, Kalle Jalkanen starts for the anchor but loses their both matches in the preliminaries and head for the leg in cross-country relay. Halfway he spits briskly on the snow but so-called consolation division. The humiliation only deepens, as realizes – to his utter horror – having spat out his false teeth, too. A they play against the “not exactly the toughest ice-hockey countries” poor workman cannot leave the expensive prosthetic device behind, Australia and Japan. The press in Finland rubs it all in in by naming so Jalkanen turns back on the ski track and fetches his teeth. The end the series the Pacific Ocean division.

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Chapter 5: Lagging behind The Finns have always prided on their capability to embrace new technology and new ideas very fast. The rise of Nokia and the success of the Finnish companies in the global computer game industry are often given as an example of this. Yet in the World Championships in skiing in 1974 the Finns were miles behind and missing the boat at the same time. Thomas Magnuson of Sweden won the 30 kilometres cross country skiing with fiberglass skis that had just appeared to the market. He won the best Finnish skier Juha Mieto with his wooden skis by almost a minute. The Finns were devoted supporters of the traditional wooden skis at the time. It was estimated later, that with his wooden skis Mieto gave Magnuson a benefit of almost two minutes.

ice hockey culminated in the final match between Finland and Sweden. Ville Peltonen scores the unforgettable three goals and takes Finland to a 4–1 victory. The entire Finland goes bananas; the analysts and scholars go crazy too, with a slight delay, and inform the citizens that winning the ice hockey championships has brought back the long lost self-esteem of the Finns, turned the nation’s economy to growth and indeed been the starting point for the success of Nokia.

THE ENTIRE FINLAND GOES BANANAS

Chapter 6: The sense of tragedy

Fi n n i s h p e o p l e l o v e 1–5, THE tragedies and melancholy GAME MUST (some say this is due BE OURS... to the harsh historical lessons and numerous hardships). Should you see a compilation on the all-time achievements of Finnish winter sports on TV, you can be sure that among the “highlights” is the one-hundredth of a second defeat Juha Mieto suffered in Lake Placid Winter Olympics in 1980 as well as Finland’s three most bitter defeats against Sweden in ice hockey (including the World Championships in 1986, again in 1991 when Sweden – during the last 45 seconds – rose from losing position of two goals to a tie and again in 2003, when Sweden turned the hopeless 1–5 score into 6–5 victory.

Chapter 9: The brave new world Individual sports as well as the traditional winter sports skiing and ski jumping were sports of the old, agricultural Finland. The changing of the world first took ice hockey to be the primary sport of Finland and later revolutionized all winter sports. Kalle Palander’s world championship in slalom in 1999 was a major surprise in its time and the first signal of the upcoming change. After that, various forms of freestyle skiing and especially snowboarding rose to the awareness of the Finns. For a long time, the old-school sport presenters and other traditionalists mocked these sports, calling them “the saggy-pant sports” in reference to the way the young sportsmen and women were dressed. The tone has however changed with the success.

Chapter 7: Doctor Jekyll and Mr. Hyde Athletes can sometimes be solemn, even somewhat dull characters.

One of the all time most legendary ski jumpers, Matti Nykänen was not and neither will he ever be. With his four Olympic golds and six World Championships Nykänen became famous for his colourful lifestyle even during his active years (The Time called him Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde of ski jumping at the time of the Calgary Olympics) and for his schisms with the bosses of the governing body of ski jumping.

Enni Rukajarvi, snowboarder from Finland. Olympic silver medalist and X-games gold medalist.

“LIFE IS AT ITS BEST

WHEN YOU ARE ALIVE”

- MATTI NYKÄNEN

Chapter 10: Winter sports in Turku

Nykänen roamed his own paths. Once he went for a two-week party holiday with a girlfriend just before the World Championship games, returned just in time for the games and still won a medal. After his active years the pace has but accelerated and the former sportsman has tried his wings as a singer, stripper and a jailer. He is also a unique philosopher, whose aphorisms have become legends in Finland.

“Life is at its best when you are alive” is an excellent example of the depths the aphorisms of Matti Nykänen can reach.

The primary wintertime spectator sport in Turku is undoubtedly ice hockey, where TPS – one of the most succesfull professional teams in the history of Finnish ice hockey – chases further success.

For those who want to have a go at winter sports themselves, Turku offers plenty of options. Downhill skiers and snowboarders should head for Hirvensalo Ski Resort, not far from the city center.

On a proper winter there is up to 50 kilometres ski trails available for cross-country skiers. And even before snowfall it is possible to ski in a tunnel in Paimio some 28 kilometres from Turku. Skating is possible on the artificial outdoor skating rinks at Parkin kenttä and Kupittaa park and on the public skating turns on the indoor ice rinks at Impivaara and Varissuo.

More information: www.visitturku.fi s

Chapter 8: The young heroes In the early 1990’s Finland is in the midst of the worst economic depression since the 1930’s. The dark gloomy times demand for heroes and such were available in May 1995. The World Championships in 11

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PHARMACY Right in the heart of Turku Open every day

SHOPPING CENTRE HANSA www.hansatorinapteekki.fi Yliopistonkatu 20, 2nd Floor ☎ +358 (0)2 279 1200

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*Calls from a landline phone 8.35 cents/call + 3.20 cents/minute, from a cellphone 8.35 cents/call + 19.33 cents/minute.

ON-CALL SERVICE OPEN EVERY DAY. At Terveystalo it is fast and easy to see a physician even without an appointment.

Our on-call service is open every day throughout the year, with a specialist in otorhinolaryngology, a specialist in pediatrics, a specialist in orthopedics and traumatology and a general practitioner on call. Come for a visit or call us!

Humalistonkatu 9–11 20100 Turku

Mon–Fri 8 a.m.–8 p.m.

Sat–Sun 9 a.m.–8 p.m.

www.terveystalo.com

Helka Koivu orthopedist and traumatologist

SELECTED SERV IC ES AN D PLAC ES I N TU RKU AREA Locations are marked on the map (pages 14–15) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Bars, Pubs, Cafés and Live Music

Bar4 ................................................ 10 Bar Ö ....................................................... 613 Bristol Pub ................................................. 6 Bryggman's .......................................... 234 Café Qwensel (Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House) ........221 Café Vimma ......................................... 286 Cup&Pint .............................................. 407 Fazer Café ............................... 627|19 Fika Café .................................607|27 Fontana Cafe ...........................................90 Gastro-Pub Löytö ................................ 551 Gong - Live Music Venue .................... 21 Hugo ........................................................ 181 Piazza ......................................................536 Teerenpeli ...................................... 15 Tinatuoppi Pub ......................................22 Restaurants

Brewery Restaurant School (Koulu) ............................... 23 Dennis Ristorante ......................... 16 di Trevi ................................................... 608 Fazer Kitchen & Cafe Stockmann ................. 575|19 Golden Grill ...................................24 Gustavo ..........................................26 Hus Lindman ..........................496|27 Julienne Bistro .....................................233 Kakolanruusu ...............................25 Kaskis ......................................................630 KASVIS-ravintola (vegetarian restaurant) ......................530 Kerttu ......................................................179 Kuori (vegetarian restaurant) ......... 620|21 NOOA ......................................................632 Old Baron's Cellar .........................22 Pippurimylly ........................................ 181 Rantakerttu .......................................... 482 Roots Kitchen (vegetarian restaurant) ..........621|21 Teini ......................................................... 551 Tårget ......................................................536

Map information marked with red dots is based on the database of Turun Aika Magazine.

Hotels & Hostels

See numbered blue dots 14–15 and 16.

on pages

Museums, Galleries and Exhibitions

Biological Museum .................. 219|1 Forum Marinum Maritime Centre ............................ 13 Kylämäki – Village of Living History ...............222 Köysiratagalleria (TUAS Arts Academy) ........................166 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum ............... 220|1 Old Great Square – several art galleries ......................... 157 Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House ..................221|1 Sibelius-museum .......................... 12 Turku Castle and Historical Museum ............. 73|1 Turku Art Museum ....................... 14 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art ..........................163|1 Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 14–15.

Churches

St Catherine´s Church ................ 68|5 St Mary´s Church ...................... 205|5 St Michael´s Church ................... 76|5 Turku Cathedral ........................69|5 Other Services

Central Post Office of Turku ........... 270 City Hospital .........................................263 LOGOMO – Centre for Cultural, Creative and Business Events .........416 Pharmacy Shopping Centre Hansa ...................................6 Terveystalo Medical Center ...........8 Tourist Information .....................

For an accurate event calendar of Turku area, see www.turunaika.fi (in Finnish).

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Turku Concert Hall .................... 60|1 Turku Market Hall ..........................7 Turku Market Square ..............................1 Turku City Library ....................127|1 Turku University Hospital ...............276 Children and Families

Adventure Park for Children and Families (Seikkailupuisto) ..... 162 | 1 Sports

Impivaara Sports Centre ................... 631 Kupittaa Sports Center ............ 588|1 Parkki Ice Skating Rink .................... 290 SuperPark – Indoor Activity Park .................. 17 Swimming all year round

Caribian Spa (Holiday Club Caribia) ........................66 Impivaara Public Swimming Pool ...281 Ispoinen Beach ....................................583 Saaronniemi Beach (Ruissalo Island) ..................................582 Transportation

AVIS Rent a Car ............................. 18 Föri – Non-stop ferry across the river for pedestrians and cyclists ...261 Kupittaa Railway Station ..................265 Local Traffic Service Office ............. 460 Main Railway Station ......................... 271 Turku Airport .......................................275 Turku Bus Terminal .......................... 266

A MAP IN

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Turku Times MapApp: www.turkutimes.fi

More info: www.visitturku.fi

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10

photo: Miska Lehto, Museum Centre of Turku

The golden girl from 1929 makes her

public debut

– celebrating the 50th anniversary of Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art

T

Written by Riitta Kormano, Chief Curator Museum Centre of Turku, Collections

he 50th anniversary of the Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art is celebrated in various ways and with a wide range of events throughout the year. The year of record success was kicked off by the exhibition Wäinö Aaltonen ja itsenäisyyden vuosisata (Wäinö Aaltonen and the Century of Independence).

The museum saw an all-time record number of visitors during the exhibition of Jacob Hashimoto, which opened in the summer. The festive mood has continued with electronic music during the WAMbience weekend as well as with the museum’s other events.

The place of honour at Wäinö Aaltonen’s anniversary exhibition was given to the exquisite gilded wooden sculpture Kultalilja (Golden Lily), which was also previously known as Kultatyttö (Golden Girl). The work was already completed in 1929, but there are no records of it previously being displayed in public. It can therefore be assumed that the exhibition at WAM was Kultalilja’s debut at a museum.

Wäinö Aaltonen: Kultalilja (Golden Girl) 1927.

Gilded wood.

18

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CO L L E C T I O N :

D E S I R E S G R A NTE D OR DENIED T U R KU A RT M U S E U M

AU R A K AT U 2 6

T U E – F R I 11–19

S AT– S U N 11–17

W W W.T U R KUA RT M U S E U M . F I

THE PURCHASE WAS A MAJOR EVENT FOR THE MUSEUM, AS HARDLY ANY

UNIQUE SCULPTURES MADE BY WÄINÖ

AALTONEN ARE STILL AVAILABLE ON

THE OPEN MARKET.

Kultalilja is a radiant female subject made by Wäinö Aaltonen in his youth.

Its granite model, Turun Lilja (Lily of Turku), stands in Runeberg Park. Wäinö Aaltonen sold his Lilja sculpture, which was at first known as Ranskan lilja (The Lily of France), to the City of Turku, citing the fleur-de-lis symbol supporting the sculpture’s ankles in his sales letter. The same heraldic symbol appears in the coat of arms of Turku. The anniversary of Finland’s independence coincides with the anniversary of the granite Turun Lilja, as the Turku City Board made the decision to buy the sculpture to adorn Runeberg Park in 1927. The purchase was significant, as it was the first outdoor sculpture purchased by the city from its own budget.

Kultalilja is a unique, approximately one-metre-high wooden sculpture with a rare technical implementation. The City of Turku purchased it for its art collection at the end of 2014. The purchase was a major event for the museum, as hardly any unique sculptures made by Wäinö Aaltonen are still available on the open market. Today, almost all of Aaltonen’s most significant works belong to museum collections.

The sculpture’s name draws from its pose A photo of Kultalilja was published in the Domus magazine in 1930, when it was in the possession of art dealer Gösta Stenman from Helsinki. The same year, Stenman moved to Stockholm, where he opened an art salon a few years later. Researcher Margareta Willner-Rönnholm supposes that Stenman took Aaltonen’s sculpture with him and that it stayed in his possession almost throughout the 1930s. He presumably sold Kultalilja in 1938 or 1939. Based on photos in a private collection, the sculpture was given to Helmer Enwall, director of the Konsertbolaget agency company, for his 50th birthday in 1939.

Finnish newspapers and documentation prepared by the museum in the 1990s confused the wooden sculpture, which was modelled after Turun lilja, with another wooden sculpture known as Suomen neito (Maiden of Finland), which belongs to the collections of the museum of Göstä Serlachius. The latter in turn is an adaptation of the monumental maiden standing on Hämeensilta Bridge in Tampere. The large original plaster sculpture used in the bronze casting of Suomen neito now receives visitors at the lobby of the Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art. Despite their countenances, which embody feminine grace, both sculptures are tied to their models by their poses, and Kultalilja is a few centimetres taller than the wooden Suomen neito.

Wäinö Aaltonen: Kultalilja (Golden Girl) 1927.

Gilded wood. photo: Miska Lehto, Museum Centre of Turku

20

photo: Raakkel Närhi

photo: Raakkel Närhi

Wäinö Aaltonen (1894–1966) was the most important sculptor in the early years of Finland's independence. Aaltonen made several public sculptures of great national value, including the figures in the House of Parliament in the 1930's. The cityscape of Turku is embellished with a total of 11 outdoor sculptures by the artist.

Aaltonen was a romantic artist whose paintings and sculptures often were of idealised nature and included Cubist features.

The core of the Turku City Art Collection consists of the basic collection donated by Wäinö Aaltonen. It includes drawings, sketches, graphics, paintings and sculptures by the artist, as well as his works from his years at school. The collection is supplemented with acquisitions and donations.

Works of Aaltonen are on display at different exhibitions, and some of his works are on permanent display at the premises surrounding the atrium of the museum.

Text (excerpt) by Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art.

Wäinö Aaltonen: Lily of Turku, 1924– 1926 (unveiled 1928), red granite, 250 x 82 x 60 cm.

Wäinö Aaltonen: Maiden of Finland, 1928, plaster, 430 x 146 x 157 cm.

In gentle care

Award at the Cultural Gala of the Century

For decades, the museum had no knowledge of Kultalilja’s whereabouts or even if the work had been lost in the tumult of war. After the wars, it was ‘forgotten’ by art historians. I tried to investigate Kultalilja’s fate in the early 21st century but to no avail. The sculpture ‘resurfaced’ a few years prior to its purchase. Its Swedish owner at the time came to WAM unexpectedly to show a photo of Kultalilja. He wanted more information on his sculpture and was looking for an expert art conservator to restore it.

An event called the Cultural Gala of the Century will be held in celebration of the anniversary of Finland’s independence at Logomo, Turku, in October 2017, and a reduction of Wäinö Aaltonen’s Kultalilja will be presented there as the award. The award sculpture was implemented as an exact 3D rendering, attached to a stone base.

The sculpture is coated in real gold. The choice of material for the award sculpture was steered by the principle of clearly distinguishing between the authentic work and a replica, which is why the materials favoured by Aaltonen in his works were not used.

The wooden Kultalilja will be on display at the Cultural Gala of the Century, after which it will be displayed at WAM for the rest of the year. After a gentle restoration, we can still enjoy the artist’s original touch and the surface that has been finely polished by time over the decades. The beautiful russet base coat under the strips of gold leaf, which have been worn by touch, gives the sculpture a delicate patina of time. Kultalilja has now gained its rightful place as a true gem of the Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art. s

KULTALILJA HAS NOW GAINED ITS RIGHTFUL PLACE AS A TRUE GEM OF THE

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART.

Together with the museum’s chief conservator Mats Sjöström, we travelled to Stockholm to look at the sculpture. It was clear to us that the old wooden sculpture was in urgent need of restoration measures as well as the carefully monitored and climate-controlled storage conditions of a museum. After the visit, we initiated discussions on purchasing the sculpture to complement the collections of the museum named after Wäinö Aaltonen.

Gilded wood is a sensitive material in an artwork, and a sculpture made of solid wood in particular is susceptible to cracking. The museum’s art conservator Emilia Kallinen cleaned the work, reattached the craquelure that was falling out and filled the crack in the leg to prevent the damage from worsening.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART – TURKU CITY ART MUSEUM Visiting address: Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Opening hours 2017: Tue–Sun 10–18 Opening hours 2018: Tue–Wed 10–18, Thu 10–19, Fri–Sun 10–18 Entrance fees 2017: 8 € adults, 4 € reduced price, 2 € 7–15 yrs, 0,50 € 4–6 yrs, under 4 yrs free, 16,50 € family ticket.

Entrance fees 2018: 9 € adults, 4 € reduced price, 4 € 7–15 yrs, under 6 yrs free, 22 € family ticket.

More information: www.wam.fi SEE NUMBER 163 ON MAP (PAGE 15).

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Dreaming about hotels is my mindfulness practice. Apart from the fact that while practicing it I’m not at all present in the present moment but completely elsewhere. I picture myself in a canopy bed or by the turquoise pool. When I hear someone is going on a trip, my first question is “Which hotel?” Men never remember. Booking the hotel is yet another thing for a woman to do.

And no, it’s not like I just google hotels, I do sometimes spend nights in them, too.

A good hotel doesn’t necessarily have anything to do with the star rating. But the view from the balcony for example can matter a lot, if one travels alone. When travelling with someone, that someone is the view. Should you spend the night in the cheapest possible hotel with a sour hag glooming at the reception, you’d have no one wishing you good night and you’d end up being terribly homesick.

Yet even a five-star boutique hotel can be dispiriting, if the interior is too sterile and the staff obnoxious. Once, on a business trip, I stayed in a hotel in Barcelona where I couldn’t figure out how to use the shower. The tap design was so modern and complicated that I just couldn’t get the water running. I ended up washing my hair in the sink.

“I’m too stupid to use your shower”, I told the receptionist in checkout.

I miss the time when hotel key was attached to a heavy ball with the room number. In those days you didn’t take the key out with you.

By no means. The key was handed to the receptionist, who put it in its own little locker for safekeeping and gave it back to you when you asked for it on your return. These modern day keycards are dubious and unreliable. Too often on returning tired to the hotel and sticking the keycard to the reader the green light just doesn’t light up and you have to return to reception for one that functions.

At its best, a night in a hotel can function as a silent retreat. More than once it has happened that I haven’t managed to turn on the TV (too complicated system, too many buttons in the remote, an unfamiliar TV). On such occasions I make myself believe that it all has a deeper meaning. To be quiet and just contemplate between the crisp sheets. In a hotel room I feel that I have all the time in the world.

Many consider domestic hotels to be gloomy. One often stays there on business and too much is simply too much. But for me, not having working trips that often, even a night in an ordinary chain hotel is a treat. Everything is familiar and easy, yet one gets to be above the ordinary for a moment.

Sometimes parents who have small children spend a night in a hotel in their hometown just to get some “grown-up time”. Everyone understands that. I’d like to spend a night in a hotel in Helsinki sometime, even though I no longer have a small child. It’s ridiculous, I know, but the mere thought of a possibility for a mini vacation and a night in a totally different environment makes me happy when unfinished work at home seems to fall all over me.

A new hotel close to the ferries for Tallinn was recently opened in Helsinki. I’d like to spend a night there sometime, before taking a trip to Tallinn. I’m always restless on the night before a trip, so that might be eased by leaving a day earlier. But then again, there is the danger of being restless for two days, as one would be anxious to get to that Finnish hotel. Ok, I’m getting rather carried away with this.

But then again, it’s the only way to be for me.

Years ago my friend Anu gave herself a night in a hotel in her hometown for her own 18-year birthday. She had imagined it to be an experience of great grandeur. Her room was freezing cold. The radiator was switched off, but a young girl didn’t have the courage to go and demand anything from the reception, so Anu was freezing all night. So much for the grandeur. The breakfast, however, had felt luxurious.

A hotel breakfast is always an adventure. First, naturally, one must circle around to get an over-all understanding of what is served. Only after that can one start to gather food on the plate. In my opinion the best breakfasts are served in Thailand. Dim sums, noodles, smoothies, filled pancakes. Often even sparkling wine. And in Estonia one is often served slowly simmered barley porridge. A dish one seldom has the patience to make at home.

The Vietnamese hotels are wonderful, but sometimes the foreign language skills of the staff, despite the friendliness, are a bit limited.

Once I tried to order a glass of white wine. It didn’t work. I couldn’t get my message through. Not even when I drew a picture of a wine glass on a napkin. They did bring the glass, but it was empty. s

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(Parts of this column have been published previously in Finnish in Apu-magazine).

Anna-Leena Härkönen is an author and an actor. Along with over 20 books, her work includes plays and scripts. Her latest novel Valomerkki (Last Call) was published in August 2017. A film adaptation of her book Kaikki oikein (The Winning Ticket) will be released in January 2018.

Photo: Jouni Harala

A night in a hotel

Written by Anna-Leena Härkönen Translated by Anna Eloaho

19*

TIME TO RELAX AND ENJOY!

Something good for the day

You will find us on the second floor at Stockmann, Hansakortteli. Grill is open daily, and we serve delicious cakes and good coffee as well as lunch and sandwiches.

Fresh smell of coffee, delicious cakes and tasty sandwiches.

All this and more you will find just next to market place, at Hansakortteli.

Fazer Café Aurakatu 10, Turku Mon - Fri 07:30 - 20:00 Sat 09:00 - 20:00 Sun 10:00 - 18:00

Stockmann, 2nd floor, Kristiinankatu 11, Turku

Mon - Fri 09:00 - 20:00 Sat 09:00 - 19:00 Sun 11:00 - 18:00

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IMPRESSIONS FROM THE LIFE OF AN OPERA DIVA

CHOREOGRAPHY TIINA LINDFORS | PIANO PASI HELIN

Beloved arias and new choreographies Maria - soprano Pia Pajala | Alter ego - Tiina Lindfors

Dance Theatre ERI | Spring 2018 World Premiere 25.1.2018

27.1. | 1.2. | 2.2. | 8.2. | 10.2. | 14.2. | 16.2. | 20.2. | 22.2.

7.3. | 9.3. | 16.3. | 18.3. | 21.3. | 23.3.

5.4. | 7.4. | 11.4. | 13.4. | 19.4.

www.eri.fi | www.lippu.fi | Yliopistonkatu 7, Turku

21*

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Plant based power stations Roots Kitchen Turun Kauppahalli “Lunch and brunch!” www.rootskitchen.fi

Kuori Hämeenkatu 8 “New evening menu!” www.ravintolakuori.fi

THE OLD BARON’S CELLAR WANHAN PARONIN K ELLAR I

The Old Baron’s Cellar is a classic à la carte -restaurant in the centre of Turku, which is built in the atmospheric vaults of the old coal cellar. Our menu includes the best flavours prepared from fresh, high-quality ingredients.

Step down into the Old Baron’s Cellar – our ceiling might be low, but the atmosphere is through the roof!

Yliopistonkatu 37, Turku Tel: +358 (0)440 225 442

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Brewery restaurant School (Koulu) is one of Finland´s largest restaurant breweries.

BEST BEER AND FOOD IN TOWN

On the first floor is the Wine room, with dining possibility, a History classroom, the Brewery Pub as well as the brewery itself.

During weekdays we serve tasty home-made lunch from the buffet.

In the Brewery Pub craft brewed beers and ciders from our own brewery and a diverse selection of quality whiskies are served.

On the Wine room´s wine list is about 80 quality wines, several of them are also served by glass.

Hansa shopping center

AURAKATU

KRISTIINANKATU

in Brewery-restaurant Koulu

YLIOPISTONKATU - WALKING STREET

Market square

EERIKINKATU Breweryrestaurant Koulu

www. panimoravintolakoulu.fi

Eerikinkatu 18, Puh. (02) 274 5757

ravintola@wanhanparoninkellari.fi www.wanhanparoninkellari.fi

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M E D I T E R R A N E A N D E L I C AC I E S

BY T H E R I V E R S I D E

La Jabuquena Serrano Reserva, Calamares Fritos & hummus

Restaurant Gustavo invites you to enjoy Mediterranean specialties with a Scandinavian twist!

Kakolanruusu is a restaurant in one of the most unique environments in Finland - the old Kakola prison.

Welcomae! to kakol

Book your table: www.kakolanruusu.fi p. +358 44 223 0200

27*

Opening hours: Tues–Fri 4pm – till Sat 2pm till late.

• Lunch • Dinner • Naples style pizza • Wines & snacks • Meetings & events Reservations and information: www.gustavo.fi/en • Tel. +358 46 9222 488 Linnankatu 1, Turku

Restaurant Gustavo

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THE LARGEST SHOPPING CENTRE IN SOUTHWEST FINLAND WELCOMES YOU Shopping Centre Mylly is one of the most diverse shopping centres in Finland. We have 150 shops with joint opening hours – Welcome!

BUS LINES

220, 221 and 300 ONLY 15 MIN FROM THE HEART OF TURKU!

Open: Mon-Fri 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sat 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sun 11 noon to 6 p.m.* *With the exception of Alko and office services Shopping Centre Mylly, Myllynkatu 1 FI-21280 Raisio | kauppakeskusmylly.fi

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