Tampere Times 1/2020

1/2020

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE Team’s long journey into the promised land

Green green grass of UEFA European Championship Page 10

Tampere Art Museum pays tribute to the forgotten Kalevala illustrator Joseph Alanen Page 23

Reading the Finnish mind Page 30

A column by Tommi Kinnunen

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

Hitched to hotels Page 32

Photo: Laura Vanzo

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Tampere is filled with things to experience and explore. Here are few tips to help you get started.

Explore the history Visit the Finlayson and Tampella areas to witness the new life of the industrial heritage sites. Admire the national landscape, historical red brick buildings and roaring rapid. Get within touching distance of the steam engine used in the old textile factory in the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas (free admission!). And don’t forget to stop by to the old Stable Yards at Finlayson to shop for local handicrafts and treats.

Roam in the nature Walk up the Pyynikki ridge and enjoy the breathtaking views and the peace of the Pyynikki nature reserve. Make your way up to the observation tower and marvel at the views opening up to Lake Pyhäjärvi. Don’t forget to try the best doughnuts in the universe!

Or why not take a walk by the lakeside, enjoy three parks at once, and stop and smell the roses in the rose garden in Hatanpää Arboretum?

Experience the culture Add a pinch of culture and Moomin-magic to your day by visiting the world’s only Moomin museum, be a spy for a day in the Spy Museum, experience the olden days in Finnish Labour Museum Werstas, Lenin Museum or Amuri Museum of Workers’ Housing or dive right into the wonderful world of art in one of the many art museums Tampere has to offer: Sara Hildén Art Museum, Tampere Art Museum, Museum Centre Vapriikki…

Savor the food Have a bite of Hungry for Tampere! Savor the tastes and atmosphere of this unique city and find your favorite foods and locations from the vast range of restaurants found in the city, everything from local foods, brewhouse cousine to relaxed fine dining experiences.

For more information on our fabulous restaurants visit hungryfortampere.fi For more information on what to experience in Tampere visit visittampere.fi

Photo: Laura Vanzo

Events 2020 Photo: gupsylovinglight

Tampere is known as the heart of the events, where people can enjoy music, theatre, museums and design.

Check out our event calendar to find out what’s happening at the moment: visittampere.fi/en/events/

Tampere is known for its culture of public saunas. Here are our picks for you!

Kuuma sauna & restaurant One of the newest additions to Tampere’s sauna scene, this pavilion offers a chance to dip into the Ratina bay between sauna-going, as well as enjoy food or drinks on the terrace while watching the Finnish Silverline ships float by. visionarydesign.fi/laukontorin-paviljonki/ Kaupinoja and Rauhaniemi These lakeside saunas are always packed with locals as well as enthusiastic visitors. Stay in the hot sauna as long as you can and then follow the stairs to cool off in Näsijärvi lake, summer or winter. Don’t forget to take a photo to prove it! www.talviuimarit.fi/kaupinojan-sauna Tullin sauna Opened in 2018, this new sauna is in the Tulli area right in the city centre. It’s a true urban sauna with work space to rent and a restaurant with relaxed but high class Finnish cuisine. Perfect for afterwork! tullinsauna.fi Rajaportti The oldest public sauna in Finland still in use, here you’ll really get into the traditional way of saunagoing. Let the locals show you how it’s done! www.rajaportinsauna.fi

Introduction to Finnish Forest Tastes and stories at Market Hall Relaxing sauna excursion Tampere kick bike tour Tasting Tampere Stand Up Paddling Hiking in Kintulammi Instagrammable Pispala - colourful houses and lake sceneries • Tampere by Kayak • Minicruises Check the whole programme and sign-up at visittampere.fi/weekly-activities

Photo: Laura Vanzo

Tampere – Sauna Capital of the World!

• • • • • • • •

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Vuolteenkatu 1, TAMPERE Next to the Tampere Bus Station – 5 minutes from the Tampere Railway Station ratina.fi

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CONTENTS Welcome to Tampere, Finland 8 Green green grass of UEFA European Championship 10 Tampere in a nutshell 14 Selected services & places­ 16 Map of Tampere 18 Hotels & hostels providing Tampere Times 20 Tampere Art Museum pays tribute to the forgotten Kalevala illustrator Joseph Alanen 23 Strawberry fields and apple thieves 28 Reading the Finnish mind 30 Hitched to hotels – A column by Tommi Kinnunen 32

Tampere Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue1/2020 "Summer" www.tamperetimes.fi ISSN 2343-3817 (print) ISSN 2669-8293 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos Finlayson Art Area. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Moomins' garden party. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Little Palace. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Pispala. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Tommi Kinnunen. Photo: Suvi-Tuuli Kankaanpää

Tampere Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.tamperetimes.fi Tampere Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Tampere (see page 20). Next Tampere Times issue is out in November 2020.

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#tullintori #tampereentullintori #sekolmaskauppakeskus #supportyourlocal

ALE LOOC SPHER ATM

PART OF THE CITY’S CULTURE SINCE 1930 SPECIALIZED STORES WELLNESS AND EXPERIENCES RESTAURANTS AND CAFES 24 PESULA | ALEKIRJAKAUPPA | ARNOLDS |BABA’S KITCHEN | BENGOL CURRY | BENGOL SPICES | BRANDER | CUBE EAST ASIA MART |FITNESS24SEVEN | FYSIOS | GIDE GIFTS & DECOR | HAIRLEKIINI | TULLINSUU | INKKARI IRTI MAASTA | K-MARKET TULLINTORI | KAIKU | KUVATIKKAUS & PAITAPAINO | MEGAZONE | MORI SUSHI & MORE PARTURI-KAMPAAMO TULLINTORIN TEAM | HAIRLEKIINI | PIRUETTI | PRISON ISLAND | PSYKOTERAPIAKESKUS VASTAAMO PUFF TAMPERE | PITSA | SPECI | PYYMÄEN TULLINTORI | SUKKA-ASU | TERVEYSTALO | TULLINSUU | THAI RAVINTOLA MING ZHU | TRIOSOFT | TULLINTORIN APTEEKKI | TUNNELIN KENKÄ | VUOKRASTUDIO.FI / PROXIMAX | VIIALAN KOTILEIPOMO

TULLIKATU 6, TAMPERE 100 METERS FROM RAILWAY STATION

www.tullintori.fi

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If you ask a Finn, where you would like to

the long term. The European Capitals of Culture initiative is a way for the European Union to support European cultural diversity. A Finnish city will be elected a Capital of Culture 2026 by a European panel.

To ensure the beautiful nature and means to enjoy it, we are working ambitiously towards our climate goal to be a carbon-neutral city by 2030. We are developing our infrastructure and also constructing plenty of new to ensure your visit is worthwhile even in the future.

We are getting new shapes to our skyline, creating more services, possibilities to live and work in Tampere, but also looking into ways to include ecological and sustainable new approaches and technologies as a part of our operations.

Today the City of Tampere is a growing city with over 240,000 residents, and the growth is expected to continue. Our aim is to provide an opportunity for a good life for everyone.

The City of Tampere is investing over EUR 6 billion in the development of the city by 2030. There are several major ongoing projects in the city region for smart and sustainable housing, mobility and logistics, such as the construction of the tramway, the development of the main rail line and new Deck Arena called UROS Live is being built in the heart of Tampere.

live, the answer is most likely: Tampere. If you ask a soon-to-be student in Finland,

where you would like to move for studies,

the answer is most likely: Tampere. Our city is one of the fastest-growing cities.

We are the second largest city area in Finland and the biggest inland city in the Nordic countries. We are also The Sauna Capital of the world. Home to the only Moomin Museum in the world, but also to culture, congresses, nature, lakes, activities, great food, cool people, events, and festivals all year round. Tampere is not just a city, Tampere is a state of mind!

The story of Tampere began in 1779 when the city was established

by King of Sweden, Gustav III, on the bank of Tammerkoski rapids.

The location has always been our competitive edge. We are at the crossroads of Finland, always close yet conveniently reachable.

Tampere’s city center is surrounded by lake and ridge scenery.

It is sited on an isthmus between lakes Pyhäjärvi and Näsijärvi.

The Tammerkoski rapids run through the city. Tampere and its industrial heritage can be considered as one of the starting points of our industrial businesses and commerce.

By the beginning of the 20th century, Tampere was the most significant industrial city in Finland. The rapids were then and still are a great source of power to the people and businesses in the Tampere area.

Our unique industrial heritage is present in the heart of the city.

The red-brick walls located on the banks of the Tammerkoski rapids, old factory buildings housing modern ICT-work, and the laidback atmosphere are the key elements of our city’s atmosphere.

Since the beginning of our story over 240 years ago, Tampere has seen the many phases of history. We have grown from a cotton factory town into a modern capital of culture in Finland. Our aim is to strengthen our role as a culturally rich university town. We are very proud to be the city of Events. Our city has to offer a variety of unique events and festivals all year round. We are the home to the world’s only Moomin Museum, to numerous congresses and conferences as well as festivals.

Thus, Tampere and the whole Tampere Region have decided to apply to become the next European center of Culture because we want to increase our residents’ well-being and boost the region’s vitality in

Tampere has an optimal location at the crossroads of Finland’s logistics routes, the most important highways, and railways. Several major mobility projects and logistics projects are underway in the city region, such as the construction of the tramway and the development of the main rail line. The most modern mode of public transport in Finland, the Tampere tram, will start operating in August 2021!

And these are only a few visible examples of Future Tampere. Our aim is to be the very best for you. Enjoy and explore Tampere during your visitation and perhaps even longer! s Lauri Lyly mayor of tampere 8

photo: Kimmo Torkkeli

photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

Welcome to Tampere, Finland

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HOPEALINJAT CRUISES DAY CRUISES | EVENING CRUISES | EVENTS | RESTAURANTS

www.hopealinjat.fi Hopealinjat is your travel guide to Finland`s beautiful lake sceneries and the best local flavours.

Our cruises and services provide many ways to enjoy fresh air and to see the world-famous Finnish lake sceneries, city views, beautiful countryside and green forests. Hop onboard on our memorable cruises.

We offer cruises in Tampere, Hämeenlinna, Virrat, Ruovesi, Nokia, Lempäälä and many other destinations along the way.

For more information www.hopealinjat.fi Contact: 010 422 5600 asiakaspalvelu@hopealinjat.fi

VIIKINSAARI ISLAND RESTAURANT | NATURE PARK | CRUISE

The Viikinsaari island in Tampere is a wonderful place to spend a summer day with your family, friends or a loved one. The boat trip from Laukontori harbour to Viikinsaari island takes only 20 minutes and offers a lovely break from the hassle of the city.

Viikinsaari offers something for everyone: summer theatre, nature park, sauna and outdoor games for hire.

Island’s 120 years old restaurant Viikinsaari, the oldest summer restaurant in Tampere, is located in a beautiful old wooden villa.

Restaurant Viikinsaari offers lake and archipelago inspired, straightforward Finnish food with a modern twist valuing local producers and the island's very own herb garden.

Take a look at the schedule and book your tickets online www.viikinsaari.fi www.ravintolaviikinsaari.fi

STEAMSHIP TARJANNE

CRUISES | RESTAURANT | HISTORICAL | TAMPERE S/s Tarjanne built in 1908 is the only passenger steamship in the world that still operates regularly on a long distance route. Tarjanne sails from Tampere Mustalahti harbour to Virrat via Ruovesi.

Onboard Tarjanne passengers will experience the authentic steam whistle blow and enjoy delicious modern Finnish food made with fresh, local ingredients at the restaurant designed by a famous Finnish painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela.

For more information and tickets www.tarjannelaiva.fi

photo: Markku Ulander / Lehtikuva

Teemu Pukki of Finland (10) celebrates with team mates his equalizing 1-1 goal during the men's football UEFA Euro 2020 European Championships qualifying match Finland vs Italy in Tampere in September 2019.

TEAM’S LONG JOURNEY INTO THE PROMISED LAND

Green green grass of

UEFA European Championship

T

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

November 15th 2019 may have been a small day for

mankind, but it was a giant

leap for Finland. On that day the Finnish national football team ensured its place in

the UEFA Euro 2020 by

defeating Liechtenstein 3-0 in a home match. It was a miracle equalling to Lordi’s Eurovision Song Contest win in 2006 and Finland’s first Ice Hockey

World Championship in 1995.

he road to the promised land had been long and rocky for the ”Eagle Owls”, The Finnish Men’s Football Team. (It is important to remember that the cause for concern in Finnish sports has for decades been the men’s national football team, the women’s team has made it to the European games several times; in 2005 they even took the divided third place). Yet the very beginning of that road was promising for men as well. The national football team took part in the Olympics of 1912 in Stockholm and made it to the semi-finals by defeating such countries as Russia and Italy. At the time Finland was the Grand Duchy of Russia, so victory over the suppressing mother nation was especially sweet.

An indication of what was to come was seen in the 9-0 loss against Holland after a somewhat decent 0-4 result against England. In a bronze medal game the entire Finnish team was tired, and according to a legend, also suffering a hangover.

The next century was marked by more and more bitter, even humiliating defeats.

Finland could but envy and observe the success of Sweden, Denmark and Norway.

Even tiny Iceland has had its moments of glory in the eyes of the world. A sign of these desperate times can be seen in a 1977 Finnish Football yearbook, where Kai Haaskivi’s goal against Italy is touted. The fact that Italy scored six goals against Finland in that match was left to lesser attention.

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photo: Unknown / Official Olympic Report

Finnish national football team in the 1912 Stockholm Olympic Games.

THE INCREDIBLE CHANGE WAS EXPLAINED BY THE

Finnish football team did take part in Helsinki Olympic Games of FUNCTIONAL PLAYSTYLE, THE IMPROVED SELF1952 as well as Moscow in 1980. Yet the value of these achievements ESTEEM AFTER THE WINS IN NATIONS LEAGUE is somewhat diminished by the fact that as the hosts we qualified automatically to the first event and the widespread boycott towards AND OF COURSE BY TEEMU PUKKI. the latter improved our odds remarkably. There was hardly any success, in Helsinki Finland dropped out during the first round and among others, the 2004 European Champion Greece. The incredible in Moscow during the group stages. change was explained by the functional playstyle, the improved It is a fact generally acknowledged that the genuine tournaments self-esteem after the wins in Nations League and of course by Teemu of substance are the European Championship and the World Cup, Pukki who was the fifth best striker of the whole qualifying round where the Finnish team’s chances have usually been that of a snowball with his 10 goals (out of Finland’s 16 goals). Pukki was also the best in hell, despite the bittersweet fact that a couple of times striker in England’s Championship League in the season we have been close to the dream becoming true.

2018–2019. Last January Pukki, who is now Premier In 1997 Finland was already on its way to the league player of Norwich, was elected the Finnish last round of World Cup qualifying games, but Athlete of the Year in 2019. an over-time own goal silenced the crowds Although the rise of the National Football at the Olympic Stadium in Helsinki and team may seem like an incredible dream, sent Hungary forward. In 2007 against yet it is a logical step in the change of Portugal Finland was only one goal Finnish society and sports as a whole. short to ensure its place in European For a long time Finnish narrative had Championship tournament. One been an epic telling of the achievements precious goal that never came. of the lone and silent heroes. Then In the past sources of joy for the came the teams, collaboration and team Finnish football fans were mostly some players. First ice hockey, then basketball lone and successful individuals. For and volleyball, finally football. example, Jari Litmanen and Sami Hyypiä What is going to happen to Finland in the were world-class players and their success in European Championship games? Many think European leagues shed light on Finnish football, that the biggest accomplishment is just to be there but even their input in the national team was and that our chances against Denmark and The Finnish players celebrate a goal in the UEFA Women’s Euro qualification match never enough.

Russia are extremely slim, let alone Belgium. against Albania in Vaasa in October 2019.

In the previous World Cup qualifying Maybe so, but the history of football is full of photo: Timo Aalto / Lehtikuva games Finland qualified fifth in its group, next miracle stories about victorious underdogs to last, and got a mere nine points in ten games. The miserable outcome with no prior pressure or expectations whatsoever. A prime example caused Finland to drop below all other Nordic countries and even is Iceland in the previous European Championship games. Iceland Faroe Islands in FIFA ranking (in 2017 Faroe Islands had a population made it’s way to the quarterfinals and unhorsed the mighty England of 49 920, which means that during a major influenza epidemic they with 2-1 (match which was played four days after the Brexit vote, would have problems to even assemble a team). After that disaster which perhaps explains the English team’s total confusion). Being only the most devoted optimists had faith in Finland’s chances in the runner up suits Finland. Let’s not forget the Winter War or our the European Championships, despite the fact that qualifying in 2019 winning Ice Hockey World Championships team, a team that European Championships is much easier than in World Cup. was considered to be the worst in history by many sports writers Then everything changed. Markku Kanerva became the head before the games. s coach and Finland started winning. The success in the Nations League (winner in their group) was followed by UEFA Euro qualifying games, UEFA has postponed the European Championship until 2021. where Finland was second in their group after Italy. Left behind was, 11

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Flowpark is an ecological adventure park where you can test your guts on a number of different trails. Flowpark is suited to all active, sporting and slighty adventurous people of all ages. Challenge yourself, welcome to Flowpark Varala!

Flowpark Varala, Varalankatu 36 Tampere, www.flowpark.fi

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Tampere

Industrial history

in a nutshell

It was the industrial revolution, along with the Tampere Rapids, that made the big wheel turn in Tampere. Among the first foreign investors was Scotsman James Finlayson, who founded the first large-scale industrial enterprise in Finland, namely the Finlayson cotton mill in 1820. Finlayson’s name became synonymous with the six-storey factory he built at the water’s edge. The factory was the first in Nordic countries to have electric light and the brand name Finlayson still lives in the Finnish textile industry.

During the latter half of the 19th century almost half of Finland’s industrial labour was situated in Tampere. Tampere gained its nickname “Manchester of the North” due to its industrial nature.

Tamperenians call their beloved city “Manse” for short.

The traditional chimney pipe industrialism began to vanish from the city centre in the late 1980’s and today the Rapids supply hydroelectric power.

Written by Anna Eloaho

Prehistory

photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

The bedrock of the Tampere and Pirkanmaa region is part of one of the oldest chain of mountains on earth. The last ice age resulted the birth of a long line of ridges, as the melting ice drifted large amounts of gravel and soil. The ridge of Pyynikki rose from the Yoldian Sea and created pools of sweet water on both sides of the ridge. Those pools are now known as the two lakes outlining Tampere: Pyhäjärvi and Näsijärvi and the rapid caused by land rising higher in the north side of the ridge is known as the Tampere Rapids or Tammerkoski in Finnish.

The first signs of permanent living in the area date to the 7th century. By the 13th century the area had developed into an important market place. In the Middle Ages, the Tampere region was inhabited by the Pirkka tribe. This feared tribe of hunters and trappers collected taxes as far north as Lapland.

In 1779 Tampere was granted full township status by King Gustav III of Sweden. As a free city, rather small town with approximately 200 inhabitants was given major privileges on matters of tax and duty.

Tampere today Population: Tampere is the third largest city in Finland with over 235,000 inhabitants in the city region and over 375,000 inhabitants in its Metropolitan area.

Education: Two universities and two polytechnic institutions result every fifth person in Tampere to be a student.

Culture: Tampere is a city of theatre with its 10 professional theatres. The annual Tampere Theatre Festival (est. 1968) is the main theater festival in Finland and the oldest theatre festival in the Nordic countries. An international short film festival Tampere Film Festival is held every March. Tampere is also famous for writers depicting the lives of working-class people and for a special music genre known as “Manserock”. s

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C ITY OF TAM PERE Restaurants, Bars, Pubs,

Museums, Galleries

Brewery Master's Beer Room ..........26 Dining 26 ........................................... 33 Hella ja Huone ..................................30 Ihku Night Club & Karaoke ...............8 Manhattan Steak House ..................29 Periscope Restaurant .......................32 Piemonte – Italian Wine Bar & Restaurant .....................................28 Plevna Brewery Restaurant ............25 Purnauskis Cat Café ..........................9 Tallipiha Stable Yards Cafe .............24 Teerenpeli ............................................6 Zarillo – Western & Tex Mex ........ 27*

Amuri Museum of Workers' Housing ...........................102 Finnish Museum of Games (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Ice Hockey Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Kimmo Pyykkö Art Museum .......20 Lenin Museum ..............................22 Mobilia – Automobile and Road Museum ........................ 19 Moomin Museum .......................... 15 Museum of Minerals (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Museum of Natural History (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Post Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Police Museum .............................. 18 Rubriikki Media Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Shoe Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 13 Sara Hildén Art Museum .............. 14 Serlachius Museums (Mänttä) ........ 23 Spy Museum .................................. 17 Steam Engine Museum (Werstas) .... 21 Tampere Art Museum .........................39

Night Clubs and Cafés

Hotels & Hostels

See pages 18–19 and 20.

and Exhibitions

Textile Industry Museum (Werstas) ............................................ 21 Vapriikki Museum Centre ............ 13 Werstas – The Finnish Labour Museum (in Finlayson area) ... 21 Events and Activities

See pages 2–3. More events and Tampere info: visittampere.fi.

Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 18–19.

Other Services & Sights

Central Post Office of Tampere ............1 Finlayson area ............................. 2*|1 First Aid Unit Acuta (Tampere University Hospital) ........................ 3 Haihara Art Centre ...............................64 Hatanpää Arboretum ............... 30*|1 Laikku Culture House .........................65 Laikunlava Stage ..................................... 5 Laukontori Market Place ...................... 6

More information in the Internet – see www.visittampere.fi 16

SELECTED SERVICES AND PLACES IN TAMPERE AREA.

Locations are marked on the map (pages 18–19) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Main Library Metso ................................ 7 Market Hall ............................................... 8 Näsinneula Observation Tower in Särkänniemi ......................................34 Police Station ............................................9 Pyynikki Observation Tower ... 10*|1 Ratina Festival Park............................... 12 Seitseminen National Park and Nature Centre ......................................... 14 Tallipiha Stable Yards – Shops Open ................................24 Tammelantori Market Place .............. 16 Tampere Cathedral ............................... 17 Tampere Exhibition and Sports Centre (Pirkkahalli) ..................... 18 Tampere Philharmonic Orchestra (Tampere Hall) .............................................. 19 Tampere Congress Hall and Concert Centre .............................. 19 Children and Families

Moomin Museum .......................... 15 Pikku Kakkonen Playground (Pikku Kakkosen puisto) ................................36 Rulla Children's Cultural Centre ..... 21 Särkänniemi Amusement Park (See also Näsinneula) ....................................20 Traffic Park for Children .....................22 Vapriikki Museum Centre ............ 13

Sports

Transportation

Flow Park Varala – adventure park (Varala Sports Institute) ............................7 Hakametsä – Tampere Ice Stadium .......................23 Tampere Stadium Ratina ...................24

Hopealinjat (Silverlines) – Lake Cruises and Restaurant Services

Swimming and Sauna all year round

Eliander Beach ......................................25 Kaupinoja – sauna bathing by the lake ...................................4*|1 Laukontori Sauna Pavilion ...... 43*|1 Pyynikki Beach ......................................26 Pyynikki Swimming Hall ...................27 Rajaportti Sauna ........................11*|1 Rauhaniemi Beach and Public Sauna ...................... 13*|1

(See also Laukontori Market Place)...............

5 Tampere City Transport Office .........40 Tampere-Pirkkala Airport ................. 31 Tampere Bus Terminal .......................32 Railway Station ...................................... 33

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET Tampere Times MapApp: www.tamperetimes.fi

Spa

Holiday Club Tampereen Kylpylä – a spa hotel ............................................28 Scandic Eden Nokia .............................29

Photos: Laura Vanzo / visit tampere

Please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

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  YOU ARE HERE! Hotels providing Tampere Times are marked on the map with numbered blue dots. The number of your hotel can be found from the list on page 20.

Tampere

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET

Tampere Times Map App is available for your use in

www.tamperetimes.fi

Finland Norway

Sweden

Russia

Poland

Germany

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5 13 17 21 21

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ADVERTISERS ARE PLACED ON THE MAP WITH GREEN DOTS.

* Some advertisers have several spots on the map. The numbers can be found on pages 16–17.

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PLEASE LEAVE THIS MAGAZINE FOR THE NEXT GUEST – THANK YOU!

Tampere Times is available in these high standard Hotels & Hostels

01 Courtyard by Marriott Tampere City Hotel Yliopistonkatu 57, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 29 357 5700 www.marriott.com

02 Dream Hostel Tampere Åkerlundinkatu 2, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 45 236 0517 www.dreamhostel.fi

03 Forenom Aparthotel Tampere City Hämeenkatu 28, 33200 Tampere Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.fi

04 Forenom Tampere City Suites Puutarhakatu 37 A, 33230 Tampere Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.fi

05 Hotel Homeland Kullervonkatu 19, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 3126 0200 www.homeland.fi

06 Hotel Kauppi Kalevan puistotie 2, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 253 5353 www.hotelli-kauppi.fi

07 Lapland Hotel Tampere

14 Scandic Tampere City

Yliopistonkatu 44, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 383 0000 www.laplandhotels.com

Hämeenkatu 1, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 244 6111 www.scandichotels.fi

08 Mango Hotel Tampere

15 Scandic Tampere Hämeenpuisto

Hatanpään puistokuja 36, 33900 Tampere www.mangohotel.fi Tel. +358 10 666 2111

Hämeenpuisto 47, 33200 Tampere Tel. +358 3 4108 1628 www.scandichotels.fi

09 Original Sokos Hotel Ilves

16 Scandic Tampere Koskipuisto

Hatanpään valtatie 1, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4631 www.sokoshotels.fi

Koskikatu 5, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 3 4108 1626 www.scandichotels.fi

10 Original Sokos Hotel Villa

17 Scandic Tampere Station

Sumeliuksenkatu 14, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4633 www.sokoshotels.fi

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Tampere is quite possibly the most interesting museum city in Finland.

Browse through our museums and find your own favourite! www.visittampere.fi

photo: Tampere Art Museum

Lemminkäinen and the Great Serpent, 1919–1920, tempera on canvas.

Tampere Art Museum pays tribute to the forgotten

Kalevala illustrator Joseph Alanen

J

photo: Private collection

Text by Tampere Art Museum. Source: Tapio Suominen’s article in Joseph Alanen – Jugend • Kalevala • Tampere

oseph Alanen (1885–1920) was among the most accomplished artists to have drawn inspiration from the Finnish national epic, The Kalevala.

The son of a Tampere-based foreman, Alanen is lesser known to wider audiences largely because his work has never been featured in a major exhibition prior to now. In 1920, Alanen, aged only 34, met an untimely death after contracting Spanish influenza, but his oeuvre is astonishingly rich in view of the brevity of his career. Tampere Art Museum now presents an extensive selection of his Kalevala-themed paintings, rounded out by his portrayals of peasant life, religious motifs, prints and drawings.

Joseph Alanen.

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photo: Tampere Art Museum

photo: Tampere Art Museum

Fairy Maidens of the Waters, 1919–1920, tempera on canvas.

Forging of the Sampo, 1910–1911, tempera, gold- and silver paint on canvas.

Student years Joseph Alanen’s artistic education did not follow the conventional path via Finnish art schools, as he resided in Sweden and Germany during most of his formative learning years. While training to become an electrician in Tampere, Alanen took an interest in telecommunications, and in 1906 secured an internship with the Ericsson telephone company. While based in Stockholm, he applied to get into art school, and was downright dazzled by the Swedish capital, which offered boundless visual inspiration.

His first trip to Berlin took place in 1906. Officially he was there to further his vocational studies as an electrician, but he took the opportunity to also sign up for art school, where he received lessons from Lovis Corinth. Alanen carefully studied the ethnographical collections of Berlin’s museums and new archaeological discoveries, which introduced him to the art of primitive ornamentation.

In his homeland, Alanen spent four years studying under Kaarlo Vuori, an accomplished portraitist remembered as Tampere’s first full-time professional artist.

In autumn 1911 Alanen made his Helsinki debut. His Kalevala motifs were well-received and the reviews were generally encouraging, albeit their decorative content stirred perplexed responses. The mixed reactions appear to have stemmed from confusion over the genre his paintings represented. Being painted directly on unprimed linen, his canvases gave the impression that they were sketches for tapestries.

While the 1910s marked a turbulent era for Finnish art and society, for Alanen it was a busy period of diverse projects: he furthered his studies, taught, illustrated, accepted commissions, and held exhibitions. He continued painting Kalevala motifs as well as religious and historical paintings, landscapes and a few portraits.

The linocut was the only printmaking technique he wholeheartedly adopted as his own, as it offered the best fit with his simple, stylized expression. Although he experimented with various styles in his freer compositions, his work always retained its inherently ornamental character. Over time, however, Alanen began to have misgivings about The Kalevala, presumably because he faced both artistic and financial pressure to broaden his repertoire.

Brief marriage

ALANEN HAD AMBITIONS TO ILLUSTRATE THE

In 1915 Alanen became engaged to his Oulu-based student Anna Väyrynen. On a visit to the Oulu region, Alanen painted the watercolour composition Tar Boat, which was unveiled in Helsinki in 1918. The couple married in 1917, but the marriage was to remain brief, stormy and childless. According to relatives, Alanen lost his will to live due to the unhappy union.

ENTIRE NATIONAL EPIC POEM BY POEM, AND THE LYRICAL WORLD OF FOLK MYTHOLOGY NEVER CEASED TO FUEL HIS CREATIVE IMAGINATION.

First exhibitions Alanen made his debut at the Finnish Art Society’s group exhibition in Tampere in 1906. His early works were modest, sombre-toned romantic landscapes depicting stormy lakes and idyllic natural scenery.

After a sojourn in Berlin and Stockholm, he returned to Tampere and set up a studio alongside his parents’ residence. In 1909 Alanen made his fourth trip to Berlin. Although painting was now his main occupation, Alanen was prevailed to supplement his income with other work: by doing illustrations for magazines, writing occasional art reviews, and teaching colour theory.

Return to The Kalevala After the end of the 1918 Finnish Civil War, Alanen relocated from Tampere to Helsinki. Defying critics, Alanen resumed painting the same epic Kalevala motifs he had already visited earlier in his career.

This was a peak period for Alanen; it was then that he painted many of his finest and most liberated Kalevala compositions. When Alanen died in spring 1920 – rapidly succumbing to Spanish influenza – he was well on the way to securing a commission to illustrate The Kalevala.

The Kalevala

Inspired by The Kalevala Alanen held his first solo exhibition in 1910 in sculptor Viivi Palander’s studio on Tampere’s town square. The show featured a handful of Kalevala-themed works alongside a selection of romantic-style paintings. Alanen had ambitions to illustrate the entire national epic poem by poem, and the lyrical world of folk mythology never ceased to fuel his creative imagination.

The Kalevala is the national epic of Finland. It is based on Karelian and Finnish folk poetry compiled by Elias Lönnrot (1802–1884). The first version of The Kalevala (called The Old Kalevala) was published in 1835, followed by The New Kalevala (currently known as The Kalevala) in 1849. The trochaic tetrameter of the poems is known as “Kalevala metre”. At the time Alanen began illustrating The Kalevala, the epic was already nearly a century old.

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photo: Jari Kuusenaho

Aapo Huhta.

The Young Artist of the Year 2020 - Aapo Huhta "THE THEMES ON WHICH I WORK ARE NOT

COMPLETELY CLEAR TO ME WHEN I START. THIS

VAGUENESS IS ONE OF THE THINGS THAT I ENJOY MOST IN PHOTOGRAPHY - IT LEADS ME BEYOND MY OWN IMAGINATION."

I often find myself creating photographs in which familiar things become unfamiliar, the everyday becomes unreal, or things just look strange. In my photographs, man is often lost. Even though everything around us is chaotic and disintegrating, it is possible to discover and make photographs that show it all as perfect and pristine, completely different from what reality seems to be. Maybe the perfect moment captured by the camera was after all true for an instant — like unattainable bliss, which always disappears as fast as it has appeared." s

Photo: Jari Kuusenaho

Aapo Huhta’s exhibition will be open in summer 2020. Huhta is an artist photographer working in Helsinki. He graduated as Master of Fine Arts from Aalto University in 2015 and focuses on experimental documentarism. The art of books of photography and related experiments with different methods and narratives are important aspects of his works. Huhta has published two books of photographs, Block (Kehrer Verlag, 2015) and Omatandangole (Kehrer Verlag, 2019) and has held solo exhibitions in Finland, Germany and Sweden.

Aapo Huhta is the 36th Young Artist of the Year.

"I photographed the works for my first two books in New York and in the desert of Namibia. The themes on which I work are not completely clear to me when I start. This vagueness is one of the things that I enjoy most in photography – it leads me beyond my own imagination. It is necessary to lose my way. I find the greatest satisfaction if I finally find my way, if I myself learn to understand what my photographs are ultimately about. That is when the piece is finished, having formed itself as it were.

TAMPERE ART MUSEUM Puutarhakatu 34 33100 Tampere www.tampereentaidemuseo.fi Please check exhibition times and opening hours from museum’s website or social media.

SEE RED NUMBER 39 ON MAP (PAGE 18).

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Helene Schjerfbeck, The Red-Haired Girl II, 1915.

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Strawberry Fields Written by Kari Tuomi

What do Finns eat during high summer and early autumn? Besides the usual,

new potatoes, cauliflower, French beans,

broccoli, salads and smoked fish, there are

many hugely popular local sweet delicacies.

Colourful berries are always a favourite,

especially the different varieties of open

field strawberries and small blue bilberries from the forests. They are sweet yet healthy and highly tongue staining.

T

he strawberries are available everywhere from Midsummer to late July. The season is not very long and it ends as suddenly as it began. Finnish Strawberries are sweeter and smaller than the varieties you might know, so it’s really worth tasting them. Unless you are reading this in August, when they have gone.

Or become too expensive to buy.

New potatoes and their popularity in Finland is somewhat of a puzzle. The French would hardly describe them as the ”delicacy worthy of best asparagus”, but that’s exactly what they say of new potatoes in Finland. The traditional diet of millions of Finns from 1960’s through 1980’s was potatoes with a simple meat sauce. I belong to a generation extremely bored of the tuber during rest of the year, but the appearance of those small beautiful potatoes at Midsummer is still a miracle. It’s all about how long you cook them and what you eat them with. Start with a dab of fresh butter and lots of fragrant local dill in the cooking water.

Plain ordinary fresh peas are a popular vegetable, which is eaten in an unordinary way. Finns enjoy them uncooked, straight from the pod. We are one of the few nations in the world that enjoy sweet peas without cooking. Remember to pay attention to the technique! You can do everything with your lips, teeth, thumbs, using one hand or two hands. Advanced pea-eaters can casually eat hundreds of peas in a minute, without even looking at the vegetable. An art in itself.

ADVANCED

PEA-EATERS

CAN CASUALLY EAT

HUNDREDS OF PEAS IN A MINUTE, WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT

All photos: Envato

THE VEGETABLE.

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and Apple Thieves Wild mushrooms slowly start to come out during summer months goodies, including berries, rot in the forests every year. A fact our (after a brief appearance of False morels in the late spring) and the media is keen to remind us about every autumn: we have become lazy. season peaks during autumn. Just like grapes, we are at the mercy of weather, dry weather being less than ideal, rain The first delicious heirloom apples appear a bit better. Finns talk about good bilberry years, during early autumn. You cannot find any in FINNS TALK ABOUT good lingonberry years and good mushrooms your local supermarket and the best ones are GOOD BILBERRY YEARS, vintages just like any serious wine producer. never sold at the market place either. You need One thing tourists are always amazed at is the to go to your own garden or “borrow” some from GOOD LINGONBERRY act of mushrooming itself. There’s nothing to it. your neighbours overhanging branches. The YEARS AND GOOD You can just step into any forest and pick some. varieties have been around for centuries and MUSHROOMS VINTAGES No training required, no licences or permits from some of the most succulent ones are only found JUST LIKE ANY SERIOUS the landowner. You need a basic knowledge of here in Finland. On a really warm summer, the WINE PRODUCER. the poisonous mushrooms (most people use a abundance of juicy apples can be amazing. reverse tactic and know the three tastiest types) The taste of these local fruit can be so unique and an hour or two. On a good mushroom year, and deeply tied to your childhood memories, that it’s amazing what you can find in half an hour. Bucketloads of funnel finding a substitute abroad is practically impossible. Of all the foods chanterelles or ceps. Believe me, there can be such a thing as too many a Finn might miss abroad: rye bread, salty liquorice or pea soup, mushrooms to pick. Hundreds millions of euro’s worth of nature’s apples can be the most difficult ones to substitute. s

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Reading the

Finnish mind Written by Pauliina Eriksson Translated by Anna Eloaho

Have you ever pondered what the Finns are like? What is the Finnish sense of humour like, what makes a Finn weep, how do Finns see the world?

The literary tradition is strong in Finland. The headway of literary works written and published in Finnish language began in the late 19th century and nowadays this small country with its 5,5 million inhabitants is the second biggest publisher of books in the world per capita.

Is it possible to get a grip of this nation by reading books? Author and teacher of Finnish language and literature Tommi Kinnunen recommends reading for anyone interested in foreign cultures. He emphasizes that literature does not merge from emptiness but “reflects the society and the social situation of a certain region, country or continent”. Through literature a reader gains an opportunity to get to know new cultures, certain geographical regions or specific epochs.

Seven Brothers by Aleksis Kivi, considered to be the first significant novel written in Finnish language, is the ultimate classic of the Finnish literature. First published in 1870, Seven Brothers celebrates its 150th anniversary in 2020. With seven brothers as protagonists, the bildnungsroman tells the tale of seven freedom-loving and uncivilized village youth to respectable members of society. Kivi’s novel is often among the first ones mentioned when Finnish literature is introduced and it has been translated to numerous languages.

Surprisingly Kinnunen doesn’t recommend a foreign reader to start from a classic. According to him the classics do give an accurate account of how the Finnish culture has developed from the past to our days, yet he recommends to start from a more contemporary work.

Whereas Seven Brothers is set in an agricultural era, the awarded author Kjell Westö is known for his novels set in an urban environment, more specifically Helsinki. His works, too, have been translated widely.

However, there is one interesting phenomenon Kinnunen wants to bring about when Finnish literary classics are discussed. The tradition

of strong women within Finnish literature can be traced throughout the tradition, starting from the national epic Kaleva, all through the plays by Hella Wuolijoki depicting ordinary people and continuing to the contemporary works like The Midwife by Katja Kettu.

Also children’s literature is widely read and published in Finland.

The Finnish kids love Tatu and Patu -series by Aino Havukainen and Sami Toivonen, with two wacky brothers from Oddville as protagonists. Tommi Kinnunen recommends Me Rosvolat -series

by Siri Kolu as an example of an anarchist approach within the children’s book genre.

Kinnunen emphasizes the meaning of literature in understanding phenomena that might otherwise be difficult to grasp. He gives being silent as an example of this and defines it as the ability of the Finnish people to feel relaxed in company without saying a word. “One doesn’t need to be distressed about being silent in Finland” he says.

Yet another good example of specifically Finnish phenomenon is the dark, laconic and often bizarre humour of Arto Paasilinna’s novels.

Got interested? There is a good selection of Finnish fiction available at the bookstores. Seven Brothers, Kalevala and The Midwife can be found in bookstores in English, German or Russian. Kjell Westö’s novels, too, have been translated to German. Tatu and Patu -books are available for kids in English and in German. Arto Paasilinna’s humour is available for those who read in French.

The path to Finnish mind is open. s

Sharing silence in Finnish literature "Tuomas eyes the old childhood playgrounds from the cottage roof top. […] Tapio sits down by his side on the ridge and together they share a silent moment only brothers can have. The other one is looking at the lake and the other knows him to be counting the number of new cottages hiding behind the pine trees on the opposite shore. The other one glances at his side, which is enough to tell his brother that he is pondering the state of the dried up gray pine tree. Without saying a word, without looking at each other they both come to the conclusion that it should be felled and made to firewood. " Tommi Kinnunen: The Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti). WSOY 2016.

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TAMPERE TIMES

COLUMN

S

Hitched to hotels

pending nights in hotels was not something I got used to as a child. My parents worked as photographers in a small district in northern Finland and to accommodate a family of seven in a hotel would have cost far too much. Hence, on the rare vacations were got used to spending nights on makeshift beds on the floors of friends and relatives. And what I had learned as a child, I carried on as a student. On occasional trips to other towns, I would crash on the spare mattresses of my local friends. We would laugh, talk and make the world a better place until four in the morning and then empty the refrigerator for breakfast.

Therefore I was truly seduced by hotels only as an adult. They whisked me away from a day-to-day life, into a totally different word where daily routines, such as cleaning, making breakfast and changing the linen would be done for me by someone else, all I had to do was to enter. At home I would fantasize how my messy one-room flat would one day become clear and contemplated as a hotel room.

A little luxury to balance a lot of every day life. That was the kind of hotel relation I yearned for. To be able to take a weekend away, see a play in a strange city after a working week. To be able to stay in an elegantly decorated room and to enjoy the difficulty of multiple choice at the sumptuous breakfast buffet. We all recognize the tingling joy of entering a new room for the first time. One is compelled to draw the curtains and check the view, open the door and inspect the bathroom. It’s almost annoying to open the suitcase and start unpacking the mundanities of one’s normal life into that beautiful utopia.

Written by Tommi Kinnunen Translated by Anna Eloaho

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photo: Envato Photo: Suvi-Tuuli Kankaanpää

Then our relationship changed. My work as a novelist started to take me to hotels more often that I thought was even necessary. Our relationship turned habitual. There always seemed to be the same rainy street-view behind the curtains and the same indifferent beds and tables in the room. The only cause for a slight excitement was whether there would be a tub or a shower in the bathroom.

Suddenly we were no longer lovebirds but in a steady relationship.

When previously I had wanted a hotel to be the unordinary non-home, nowadays when a hotel room functions as my home base during the author visits, I quite unexpectedly yearn for likeness of home from it. Instead of a hotel in the luring pulse of the city centre, I prefer a quiet location. I, too, keep to my room, having no interest to go nightclubbing. Instead of the abundant breakfast buffet a middle-aged man appreciates the light vegetarian choices. And rather than room service he prefers the possibility to iron his costume before making his public appearance.

What will the next step be? Are we to become an old married couple, knowing each other’s needs without words. There will be a thin pillow and a thick duvet for my aching bones waiting for me on my arrival and I will know my way around the building and into the breakfast room without instructions. Perhaps later on we will grunt on my grow-up daughter’s relation to hotels: her stories about the exciting weekend trips, spectacular lounges and beautiful decorations. Who knows.

At the moment, however, she is just six years old and has very little experience in hotels. And although the 800-kilometre drive to see grandmother requires us to stop overnight, we have a habit of spending the night in the guestrooms of the relatives. s

Tommi Kinnunen (b.1973) is an author and a school teacher of Finnish literature. He was born in Kuusamo, north-east Finland and currently lives in Turku. His debut novel, Where Four Roads Meet (Neljän tien risteys, 2014) was shortlisted for the Finlandia Prize for Fiction and awarded with several literature awards. Where Four Roads Meet has been adapted to theatre as well. Kinnunen’s second novel, the Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti, 2016) was also shortlisted for Finlandia Prize. His third, The Glass River (Pintti, 2018) was awarded with the Bothnia Literary Prize. Kinnunen’s works have been translated into 20 languages. His fourth novel will be published in autumn 2020.

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