Metropolitan Times 2/17

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

2/2017

100 years of winter sports in Finland

Power couple of Finnish art and design in the spotlight at EMMA

Reading the Finnish mind

Interview:

Actor Alina Tomnikov finds new perspectives to Helsinki

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

A NIGHT IN A HOTEL

A column by Anna-Leena Härkönen

TRY IT OUT. Concert info helsinkiphilharmonicorchestra.fi Tickets ticketmaster.fi

A CLASSIC LOVE STORY yle.fi/rso

13.10.

ALEXANDER NEVSKY (Soviet Union 1938)

Frank Strobel, conductor Anna Danik, mezzo-soprano Helsinki Music Centre Choir

29.11. & 30.11.

Jukka-Pekka Saraste, conductor Antoine Tamestit, viola

6.12.

FINLAND 100 & FRSO 90

20.1.

Temppeliaukio Church Finnish Baroque Orchestra Meta4 Aleksei Lybimov and Olga Pashenko, pianoforte

21.1.

Hannu Lintu, conductor Christian Tetzlaff, violin

Hannu Lintu, conductor Niina Keitel, mezzo-soprano Tuomas Pursio, baritone Polytech Choir

27.10.

13.12. & 14.12.

Sir Roger Norrington, conductor

18.10. & 19.10.

Pietari Inkinen, conductor Sergey Khatchatryan, violin

Hannu Lintu, conductor Gerald Finley, baritone

1.11. & 2.11.

Erich Höbarth, conductor and violin Soile Isokoski, soprano Aapo Häkkinen, organ

10.11.

Olari Elts, conductor Risto-Matti Marin, piano

15.11.

Bernard Labadie, conductor Laura Vikman, violin Jakob Dingstad, viola

24.11.

Hannu Lintu, conductor Lisa Batiashvili, violin

10.1. & 11.1.

FIDELIO

Hannu Lintu, conductor

13.1.

Olli Mustonen, piano & Film Ludwig van

19.1.

Matthias Pintscher, conductor Javier Perianes, piano

Uusi Helsinki Quartet

24.1. & 25.1.

2.2.

Eva Ollikainen, conductor Timo Korhonen, guitar

7.2. & 8.2.

Lionel Bringuier, conductor Piotr Anderszewski, piano

16.2. & 17.2.

Hannu Lintu, conductor Benjamin Grosvenor, piano

2.3.

Oliver Knussen, conductor Jukka Harju, French horn

7.3.& 8.3.

Hannu Lintu, conductor Jari Valo, violin

Tickets 9–69 € from Ticketmaster sales points and ticketmaster.fi.

Helsinki Music Centre box office Mon–Fri 9–18, Sat 10–17.

CONTENTS Same old city from a different angle – Actor Alina Tomnikov finds new perspectives to Helsinki 6 100 years of winter sports in Finland 8 Map of metropolitan area 12 Hotels & hostels providing Metropolitan Times 14 Power couple of Finnish art and design in the spotlight at EMMA 16 Reading the Finnish mind 20 A night in a hotel – A column by Anna-Leena Härkönen 22

Metropolitan Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2017 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.metropolitantimes.fi ISSN 2489-2688 Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover Photos from left to right & up to down: Suomenlinna-Sveaborg Sea Fortress. Photo: Comma Image Oy Iso Omena Shopping Centre. Photo: City of Espoo Actor Alina Tomnikov. Photo: Lauri Laukkanen Ice swimming. Photo: Roy Koto Helsinki Christmas Market at the Senate Square.

Photo: Jussi Hellsten Helsinki-Espoo Rantareitti route. Photo: Helena Roschier Ring III Road, Vantaa. Photo: Sakari Manninen Author and actor Anna-Leena Härkönen. Photo: Jouni Harala

Metropolitan Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: m.metropolitantimes.fi.

Metropolitan Times is available in selected hotel and hostel rooms and lobbies in Espoo-Helsinki-Vantaa metropolitan area (see pages 12–13 and 14).

Next Metropolitan Times issue is out in April 2018.

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Restaurant Ateljé Finne serves outstanding contemporary Finnish cuisine in old atelje studio of sculptor Johan Finne (1886–1952).

Opening times: Monday–Saturday 17–24 (last orders to kitchen 21:30)

Restaurant Ateljé Finne Arkadiankatu 14, 00100 Helsinki +358 10 281 8242 info@ateljefinne.fi www.ateljefinne.fi

photo: Lauri Laukkanen

Same old city from a different angle

– Actor Alina Tomnikov finds new perspectives to Helsinki

Interview by Anna Eloaho

A drug addict young mother, an elf, a blind woman, the Grand Duchess of Russia, the

voice of Barbie and the evil consciousness

You travel a lot for your work, what is your relationship to hotels?

T

of a super-hero. Actor Alina Tomnikov is

Sometimes, when I have a very intensive work period, I book a room in a hotel here in Helsinki. It can get very intensive in my line of work, working with yourself, using your own emotions, your own memories.

Every now and then one needs a break. There are wonderful hotels in Helsinki, very modern ones and ones that allow you to experience atmosphere of past eras. Staying one night in hotel offers me a great way to gain new perspectives to my hometown.

all this and a lot more.

hese are just but few of the recent and upcoming roles of Alina Tomnikov. Most recently she appeared as Marla, the evil consciousness of a super-hero in Rendel, the first ever super-hero movie made in Finland. She played a young drug addict mother in popular Finnish hospital series Syke, she starred as an elf in a children’s favourite Rölli the Troll and gave her voice to animated Barbie. A while ago she depicted a Prussian princess, later the Grand Duchess Natalia of Russia in a Russian television series Ekaterina (Catherine the Great).

Finding different angles to familiar things is in the core of your work, isn’t it?

Indeed. A while ago I was preparing for a role as a visually impaired person and walked blindfolded in Helsinki with a blind tutor. It opened a totally different angle to Helsinki. I heard sounds that really make Helsinki Helsinki: the seagulls, the traffic noise. And I was astonished of the number of different languages one can hear here. During my studies at the Theatre Academy I was given a valuable advice by my speech teacher: Look up! Find new ways to look at familiar things.

It’s rather exceptional for a Finnish actor to be starring in a major role in an all-Russian production. What lead you to that role?

What have you discovered about your own hometown Helsinki with this method?

I grew up in a bilingual family in Kerava. My mother is Finnish and my father Russian. I had the privilege to grow into two cultures and two languages. Despite the fact that my roots, along with my last name, was the reason I was bullied at school. In those days one didn’t really hear Russian spoken in Finland. I have my father to thank for in passing on to me the Russian heritage with all its fairy tales, songs and literature classics.

My eyes have opened to see the sea. I grew up in Kerava, where there isn’t a puddle at sight so water really isn’t my element, especially cold water. But recently I stayed in a hotel in Jätkäsaari, in a room overlooking the sea and realized how essential the sea is to Helsinki.

And it can be enjoyed in many ways. I myself choose to look at it from a hotel window (laughs), but for those who do not despise cold, I recommend to take a dip at the Allas Sea Pool, right in the centre at the Market Square. Or take a stroll around the Töölönlahti Bay, it’s very much the Helsinki-thing to do! s

What do you value most in your Russian heritage?

The way children are brought up in Russia is very strict and very loving at the same time. A lot of love and big emotions along with the sense of one’s own rank. Kids are brought up to respect elderly people. They are also taught a lot about their own history. I just came from Minsk, in Belarus, where I was shooting a TV-series about my Slavic roots. I was astonished to find out that no matter who I asked – a fashion blogger, an IT-bloke, or an unemployed – they would know the history of their country and their capital. Anyone of them could tell about the buildings, dropping amazing details. It made me ask myself, do I know my own hometown that well? To know and to value your own history really is the sign of humanity.

ACTOR AND VOICE ACTOR ALINA TOMNIKOV, 29.

Born in Kerava, lives in Helsinki.

Graduated from the Theatre Academy of Finland in 2013.

Forthcoming appearances: comedy-drama Donna, starting in January on YLE (the Finnish Broadcasting Company). A TV-series about Alina tracing her Slavic roots on YLE in spring 2018.

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BREWERY

DISTILLERY

BAR

BEERS AND WHISKIES FROM OWN BREWERY AND DISTILLERY • KITCHEN OPEN TILL CLOSING TIME

TEERENPELI KAMPPI - OLAVINKATU 2 - WWW.TEERENPELI.COM

Our Inspiration We seek for inspiration in the domestic seasonal ingredients and the traditional Finnish cooking.

The Restaurant Restaurant Aino is excellently located in the heart of Helsinki by the lovely Esplanade Park.

Shopping street as well as the buzzing market square are near by at the harbour.

Restaurant Aino has been a proud advocate for traditional Finnish food.

It has turned out to be a great success with foreigners in search of authentic Finnish dining experiences, as well as Finns reacquainting themselves with some old favorites.

Finnish Restaurant

Pohjoisesplanadi 21, 00100 Helsinki Puh. (09) 624 327 www.ravintolaaino.fi

winter sports in Finland Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

Winter sports have played an important role in the grand narrative of Finnishness throughout the 100-year independency of the nation.

We give you ten small chapters from the great story.

Matti Lähde sending Kalle Jalkanen for the anchor leg in the Olympic cross-country skiing relay in Garmisch-Partenkirchen 1936.

Chapter 1: The first star Newly independent Finland was keen to make herself known for the world and success in the sporting arenas offered a possibility to attain fame. The best mannequin for the nation was naturally Paavo Nurmi in track and field, but he operated in the summertime. His equivalent in winter sports was Clas Thurnberg, also known as “the Nurmi of the skating rink”. He took five Olympic golds in speed skating. Thurnberg reminded his more famous counterpart in stubbornnes as well: he refused to take part in the 1932 Winter Olympics in Lake Placid, because he considered the mass start rules as utter foolery.

Chapter 2: The poor man’s false teeth

JALKANEN

is happy: he reaches the Norwegian again, overtakes him and takes Finland to Olympic victory.

Chapter 3: The magical numbers In the Finnish minds the year 1952 is fixed as the year when the dark shadow of the wartime finally starts to fade. Helsinki hosts the Summer Olympic games and the war reparation payments for Soviet Union are finally fulfilled.

Already the very beginning of year 1952 shows promise: Veikko Hakulinen takes the Olympic gold medal in Oslo in the 50 km skiing. Even more unforgettable than the winning itself is his magical winning time: 3 hours, 33 minutes TURNS BACK and 33 seconds.

ON THE SKI TRACK AND In between the two World Wars, Finland was still so poor a country that a top class skier would FETCHES HIS TEETH Chapter 4: In a wrong company risk the Olympic gold for his false teeth. It is The Squaw Valley Olympics in 1960. The national year 1936 and the Garmisch-Partenkirch Olympics. A minute after ice hockey team of Finland has arrived with great expectations, the Norwegian Bjarne Ivarsen, Kalle Jalkanen starts for the anchor but loses their both matches in the preliminaries and head for the leg in cross-country relay. Halfway he spits briskly on the snow but so-called consolation division. The humiliation only deepens, as realizes – to his utter horror – having spat out his false teeth, too. A they play against the “not exactly the toughest ice-hockey countries” poor workman cannot leave the expensive prosthetic device behind, Australia and Japan. The press in Finland rubs it all in in by naming so Jalkanen turns back on the ski track and fetches his teeth. The end the series the Pacific Ocean division.

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photo: SPORTS MUSEUM OF FINLAND

100 years of

Take a break

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Chapter 5: Lagging behind The Finns have always prided on their capability to embrace new technology and new ideas very fast. The rise of Nokia and the success of the Finnish companies in the global computer game industry are often given as an example of this. Yet in the World Championships in skiing in 1974 the Finns were miles behind and missing the boat at the same time. Thomas Magnuson of Sweden won the 30 kilometres cross country skiing with fiberglass skis that had just appeared to the market. He won the best Finnish skier Juha Mieto with his wooden skis by almost a minute. The Finns were devoted supporters of the traditional wooden skis at the time. It was estimated later, that with his wooden skis Mieto gave Magnuson a benefit of almost two minutes.

THE ENTIRE FINLAND GOES BANANAS

Chapter 9: The brave new world

Chapter 6: The sense of tragedy Finnish people love tragedies and melancholy (some say this is due to the harsh historical lessons and numerous hardships). Should you see a compilation on the all-time achievements of Finnish winter sports on TV, you can be sure that among the “highlights” is the one-hundredth of a second defeat Juha Mieto suffered in Lake Placid Winter Olympics in 1980 as well as Finland’s three most bitterest defeats against Sweden in ice hockey (including the World Championships in 1986, again in 1991 when Sweden – during the last 45 seconds – rose from losing position of two goals to a tie and again in 2003, when Sweden turned the hopeless 1–5 score into 6–5 victory.

Chapter 7: Doctor Jekyll and Mr. Hyde Athletes can sometimes be solemn, even somewhat dull characters.

One of the all time most legendary ski jumpers, Matti Nykänen was not and neither will he ever be. With his four Olympic golds and six World Championships Nykänen became famous for his colourful lifestyle even during his active years (The Time called him Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde of ski jumping at the time of the Calgary Olympics) and for his schisms with the bosses of the governing body of ski jumping.

Individual sports as well as the traditional winter sports skiing and ski jumping were sports of the old, agricultural Finland. The changing of the world first took ice hockey to be the primary sport of Finland and later revolutionized all winter sports. Kalle Palander’s world championship in slalom in 1999 was a major surprise in its time and the first signal of the upcoming change. After that, various forms of freestyle skiing and especially snowboarding rose to the awareness of the Finns. For a long time, the old-school sport presenters and other traditionalists mocked these sports, calling them “the saggy-pant sports” in reference to the way the young sportsmen and women were dressed. The tone has however changed with the success.

Enni Rukajarvi, snowboarder from Finland. Olympic silver medalist and X-games gold medalist.

Chapter 10: Winter sports in the metropolitan area

“LIFE IS AT ITS BEST

WHEN YOU ARE ALIVE”

- MATTI NYKÄNEN

Nykänen roamed his own paths. Once he went for a two-week party holiday with a girlfriend just before the World Championship games, returned just in time for the games and still won a medal. After his active years the pace has but accelerated and the former sportsman has tried his wings as a singer, stripper and a jailer. He is also a unique philosopher, whose aphorisms have become legends in Finland.

“Life is at its best when you are alive” is an excellent example of the depths the aphorisms of Matti Nykänen can reach.

Chapter 8: The young heroes In the early 1990’s Finland is in the midst of the worst economic depression since the 1930’s. The dark gloomy times demand for heroes and such were available in May 1995. The World Championships in ice hockey culminated in the final match between Finland and Sweden.

Ville Peltonen scores the unforgettable three goals and takes Finland to a 4–1 victory. The entire Finland goes bananas; the analysts and scholars go crazy too, with a slight delay, and inform the citizens that winning the ice hockey championships has brought back the long lost self-esteem of the Finns, turned the nation’s economy to growth and indeed been the starting point for the success of Nokia.

The primary winter time spectator sport in the metropolitan area is undoubtedly ice hockey. In Helsinki, ice hockey team Jokerit celebrate their 50th anniversary and chases success in KHL, world’s second most influential ice hockey league. HIFK aims to win the Liiga, the top-level ice hockey league in Finland.

The Espoo United and Kiekko-Vantaa chase success in Mestis, the subsequent league level.

Should you want to have a go with winter sports yourself, there are plenty of opportunities available. There is an ice skating rink right in the centre of Helsinki, at the railway square. And on a snowy winter there are hundreds of kilometres of cross-country skiing tracks in the metropolitan area: 180 kilometres in Helsinki, 200 in Espoo and up to 250 in Vantaa. One of the most popular places for skiing is the Paloheinä Recreational Centre just about 10 kilometres from the centre of Helsinki. The lighted ski trails there may well open as early as in December. And should there be no time to wait for the snow to fall, the Kivikko Skiing Hall offers a possibility to ski indoors. The metropolitan area offers several options for those who favour downhill skiing and snowboarding, too. s More information: www.visithelsinki.fi • www.visitespoo.fi • www.visitvantaa.fi

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Welcome to FOREX Bank Helsinki Central Railway Station, Asemahalli • Stockmann 8th floor, Aleksanterinkatu 52 B • Shopping Center Itis, Stockmann floor -1 • Shopping Center Itis, Pasaasi Espoo Tapiola, Sampotori • Shopping Center Sello, Ratsusola, Leppävaarankatu 3–9 • Vantaa Shopping Center Jumbo, Stockmann 2nd floor • www.forex.fi

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET

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THE MAP OF THE METROPOLITAN AREA

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Helsinki

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Helsinki was founded in 1550 by King Gustavus Vasa of Sweden. It became the capital city of Finland (then the Grand Duchy of Finland) in 1812.

Inhabitants: ca. 600,000. More information: www.hel.fi.

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Espoo

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Espoo is the second largest city in Finland.

It gained city rights in 1972, but the first written mention of Espoo is from 1458. Geographically scattered Espoo is divided into seven major areas and instead of one city center Espoo has five rather densly populated city centers. Inhabitants: ca. 275,000. More information: www.visitespoo.fi.

Vantaa Vantaa is the fourth largest city in Finland. It gained city rights in 1974, but the first written mention of Vantaa is from 1352. The Helsinki Airport is situated in Vantaa. Inhabitants: ca. 220,000. More information: www.visitvantaa.fi.

Kauniainen Kauniainen is a small town enclosed by the city of Espoo. It is the smallest commune of Finland with its 6 square kilometres. Inhabitants: ca.

9,400. More information: www.kauniainen.fi.

Capital region The total number of inhabitants in the Capital region (Helsinki, Espoo,Vantaa and Kauniainen) is 1.1 million.

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Greater Helsinki Capital region and the municipalities Hyvinkää, Järvenpää, Kerava, Kirkko­nummi, Nurmijärvi, Sipoo, Tuusula, Mäntsälä, Pornainen and Vihti form the Greater Helsinki area, rising the number of inhabitants to 1.4 million. Together with the cities of Porvoo, Lohja and Riihimäki, the population of the Metropolitan area rises to about 1,550,000.

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in these high standard Hotels & Hostels 01 Airport Hotel Bonus Inn

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02 Airport Hotel Pilotti

11 Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa

20 Original Sokos Hotel Albert Helsinki

Kalastajatorpantie 1, 00330 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 458 11 www.hiltonhotels.com

Albertinkatu 30, 00120 Helsinki Tel. + 358 20 123 4638 www.sokoshotels.fi

03 Best Western Plus Hotel Haaga Helsinki

12 Hilton Helsinki Strand

Nuijamiestentie 10, 00320 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 580 7877 www.hotelhaaga.fi

John Stenbergin ranta 4, 00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 393 51 www.hiltonhotels.com

21 Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden

04 Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo

13 Hotel Helka

Tasetie 8, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 20 123 4605 www.sokoshotels.fi

Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 613 580 www.hotelhelka.com

05 Clarion Hotel Helsinki

14 Hotel Hellsten Espoo

Tyynenmerenkatu 2, 00220 Helsinki Tel. +358 10 850 3820 www.nordicchoicehotels.com

Porarinkatu 3, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 9 511 051 www.hellstenhotels.fi

06 Clarion Hotel Helsinki Airport

15 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Parliament

24 Scandic Espoo

Museokatu 18, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 5110 5700 www.hellstenhotels.fi

Nihtisillantie 1, 02630 Espoo Tel. +358 9 435 20 www.scandichotels.fi

07 Forenom Apart Hotel Espoo Leppävaara

16 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Senate

25 Scandic Grand Marina

Porarinkatu 1, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com

Kauppiaankatu 5, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 5110 5243 www.hellstenhotels.fi

Katajanokanlaituri 7, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 16 661 www.scandichotels.fi

08 Forenom Apart Hotel Helsinki City

17 Hotel Korpilampi Espoo

26 Scandic Park Simonkenttä

Korpilammentie 5, 02970 Espoo Tel. +358 9 613 8411 www.korpilampi.fi

Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 68 380 www.scandichotels.fi

18 Hotel Majvik Espoo

27 Solo Sokos Hotel Torni

Majvikintie 1, 02430 Masala Tel. +358 9 295 511 www.majvik.fi

Yrjönkatu 26, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4604 www.sokoshotels.fi

Tietotie 5, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 850 3810 www.nordicchoicehotels.com

Eerikinkatu 24, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com

09 Forenom Hostel Helsinki Pitäjänmäki Kornetintie 10, 00380 Pitäjänmäki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com

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Tapionaukio 3, 02100 Espoo Tel. + 358 20 123 4616 www.sokoshotels.fi

22 Radisson Blu Hotel Espoo Otaranta 2, 02150 Espoo Tel. +358 20 123 4705 www.radissonblu.com

23 Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Ruoholahdenranta 3, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4707 www.radissonblu.com

photo: Comma Image Oy

Veromäentie 1, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 329 4800 www.airporthotelpilotti.fi

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Knitwear

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Power couple

M

of Finnish

Text by Henna Paunu, EMMA – Espoo Museum of Modern Art

art and design

arking the occasion of Finland’s centenary, a new, internationally noteworthy gallery and exhibition space dedicated to design will open at the Espoo Museum of Modern Art EMMA in November 2017. The new space will highlight an extensive selection of works by the most influential power couple in the history of Finnish art, Rut Bryk and Tapio Wirkkala. The new extension will also comprise a space for temporary design exhibitions at WeeGee House in the Espoo district of Tapiola.

in the spotlight

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA 2017

at EMMA

Tapio Wirkkala, Kalvolan kanto (a vase).

1948–1972.

Arts and crafts.

TWRB Foundation.

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MAGICAL MOMENTS IN ESPOO E S P O O C U LT U R A L C E N T R E & T A P I O L A S I N F O N I E T T A

E S P O O. F I / C U LT U R A LC E N T R E TA P I O L A S I N F O N I E T TA . F I / C O N C E R T S

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA 2017

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA 2017

Rut Bryk, Ashtray/ceramic tile dish. 1960–1964, faience.

TWRB Foundation collection, Espoo Museum of Modern Art Emma collection.

Rut Bryk, Hexagon 1952, faience. TWRB Foundation.

Tapio Wirkkala (1915–1985) ranks among the most widely acclaimed names in Finnish design. Celebrated as a master crafter of glass and wood, Wirkkala carved out an impressive international career as an extraordinarily versatile and prolific artist and designer, also making his mark in ceramics, metal, plastic and graphic art, not

to mention exhibition design. His wife Rut Bryk (1916–1999) was a pioneering innovator of Finnish ceramic art, whose exquisite one-off pieces, gorgeous glazes, expressive narrative motifs and creative installations continue to enchant contemporary audiences to this day. Bryk created a vast body of ceramic art during the five decades she worked in the art department of Finland’s most illustrious and respected design company, Arabia. She also made a name in the textile industry as a designer of colour-drenched fabrics. Both Bryk’s ceramic glazes and textiles bear witness to her extraordinary eye for colour.

Both artists were greatly inspired by the landscapes of Lapland, where they spent part of the year working in the lap of nature at their northern cabin, which provided a peaceful retreat from their busy international careers.

Among the works on show at EMMA is Wirkkala’s monumental wooden relief Ultima Thule, which draws inspiration from the scenery of the north. Ultima Thule is also the name of Wirkkala’s most popular industrially produced tableware series, which is likewise inspired by winter and ice. The series remains in production at the Iittala glassworks to this day. Alongside Lapland, another enduring source of inspiration for both artists was the cultural heritage of Italy and their shared love of early Renaissance art.

The Tapio Wirkkala Rut Bryk Foundation is the custodian of an astonishingly large collection of works

Rut Bryk, Lion 1957 (detail), metal oxides.

TWRB Foundation.

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA 2017

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Tapio Wirkkala, Ultima Thule.

celebrating the legacy of Bryk and Wirkkala. The first exhibition to open there, Still / Life curated by designer Harri Koskinen, is a retrospective featuring the work of Tapio Wirkkala.

The design is based on an international concept competition seeking innovative solutions for presenting museum collections and archives. From now on, the public will enjoy permanent access to Rut Bryk and Tapio Wirkkala’s unique oeuvre at EMMA. The architectural design of the exhibition space is the work of two young and promising architects, Johanna Brummer and Heini Emilia Saari.

EMMA’s key highlight of 2017 will be the inaugural opening of the new extension on November 17. The new space offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore behind the scenes, to peek into a world normally hidden from audiences, and to reflect on themes related to the creation of art. s

photo: Rauno Träskelin

photo: Maaria Wirkkala.

comprising thousands of objects and documents deposited at EMMA. This collection of over 5,000 exhibits will finally be placed on public display in a new gallery space named Aukio. The accompanying archive material offers visitors a rare glimpse into the couple’s creative process, the evolution of their ideas, and the practical stages through which their work came into being.

EMMA will pioneer a wholly new concept in the presentation of this collection. The public will view the entire extensive collection in an open-access storage space called ‘Visible Storage’, which offers insights into the behind-the-scenes work done by museums and the processes involved in the upkeep of the collection. The collection and archives will be made as accessible as possible both in the museum space and digitally, also on web platforms. The new extension additionally comprises a space for temporary design exhibitions

EMMA – ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Opening hours: Mon closed. Tue, Thu 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–7pm, Fri 11am–7pm (Free entrance from 5pm to 7pm), Sat, Sun 11am–5pm.

Tickets: 12 € / 10 € Free admission: Helsinki Card and Museum Card Visitors under 18 and over 70.

Metro: Tapiola station Bus: 106 / 110 from Kamppi

Rut Bryk and Tapio Wirkkala.

Tapio Wirkkala, Leaf dish.

TWRB Foundation.

Current exhibitions and more at: www.emma.museum/en @emmamuseum #emmamuseum

Read more: www.emma.museum/en/bryk_wirkkala_visible_storage The Bryk & Wirkkala visible storage and exhibition will be on show from 17 Nov 2017 at EMMA. 19

Reading the

Finnish mind Written by Pauliina Eriksson Translated by Anna Eloaho

Have you ever pondered what the Finns are like? What is the Finnish sense of humour like, what makes a Finn weep, how do Finns see the world?

The literary tradition is strong in Finland. The headway of literary works written and published in Finnish language began in the late 19th century and nowadays this small country with its 5,5 million inhabitants is the second biggest publisher of books in the world per capita.

Is it possible to get a grip of this nation by reading books? Author and teacher of Finnish language and literature Tommi Kinnunen recommends reading for anyone interested in foreign cultures. He emphasizes that literature does not merge from emptiness but “reflects the society and the social situation of a certain region, country or continent”. Through literature a reader gains an opportunity to get to know new cultures, certain geographical regions or specific epochs.

Seven Brothers by Aleksis Kivi, considered to be the first significant novel written in Finnish language, is the ultimate classic of the Finnish literature. With seven brothers as protagonists, the bildnungsroman tells the tale of seven freedom-loving and uncivilized village youth to respectable members of society. Kivi’s novel is often among the first ones mentioned when Finnish literature is introduced and it has been translated to numerous languages.

Kinnunen, however, doesn’t recommend a foreign reader to start from a classic. According to him the classics do give an accurate account of how the Finnish culture has developed from the past to our days, yet he recommends to start from a more contemporary work.

Whereas Seven Brothers is set in an agricultural era, the awarded author Kjell Westö is known for his novels set in an urban environment, more specifically Helsinki. His works, too, have been translated widely.

However, there is one interesting phenomenon Kinnunen wants to bring about when Finnish literary classics are discussed. The tradition of strong women within Finnish literature can be traced

throughout the tradition, starting from the national epic the Kalevala, all through the plays by Hella Wuolijoki depicting ordinary people and continuing to the contemporary works such as The Midwife by Katja Kettu.

Also children’s literature is widely read and published in Finland.

The Finnish kids love Tatu and Patu series by Aino Havukainen and Sami Toivonen, with two wacky brothers from Oddville as protagonists.

Tommi Kinnunen recommends Me Rosvolat series by Siri Kolu as an example of an anarchist approach within the children’s book genre.

Kinnunen emphasizes the meaning of literature in understanding phenomena that might otherwise be difficult to grasp. He gives being silent as an example of this and defines it as the ability of the Finnish people to feel relaxed in company without saying a word. “One doesn’t need to be distressed about being silent in Finland” he says.

Yet another good example of specifically Finnish phenomenon is the dark, laconic and often bizarre humour of Arto Paasilinna’s novels.

Got interested? There is a good selection of Finnish fiction available at the bookstores. Seven Brothers, the Kalevala and The Midwife can be found in bookstores in English, German or Russian. Kjell Westö’s novels, too, have been translated to German. Tatu and Patu books are available for kids in English and in German. Arto Paasilinna’s humour is available for those reading in French.

The path to the Finnish mind is open. s

photo: Jussi Vierimaa

Silence in Finnish literature "Tuomas eyes the old childhood playgrounds from the cottage roof top. […]

Tapio sits by his side on the ridge and together they share a silent moment only brothers can have. The other one is looking at the lake and the other knows him to be counting the number of new cottages hiding behind the pine trees on the opposite shore. The other one glances at his side, which is enough to tell his brother that he is pondering the state of the dried up grey pine tree. Without saying a word, without looking at each other they both come to the conclusion that it should be felled and cut to firewood."

Tommi Kinnunen: The Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti). WSOY 2016.

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Tommi Kinnunen.

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METROPOLITAN TIMES

COLUMN

Like many of us, I too used to spend time googling apartments for sale and dream of a penthouse in Ullanlinna (prestigious district in southern Helsinki, TN). Now that has changed to googling hotels. After all, a night or two in a luxury hotel just might be attainable once in a lifetime, where as buying a penthouse apartment most likely isn’t.

Dreaming about hotels is my mindfulness practice. Apart from the fact that while practicing it I’m not at all present in the present moment but completely elsewhere. I picture myself in a canopy bed or by the turquoise pool. When I hear someone is going on a trip, my first question is “Which hotel?” Men never remember. Booking the hotel is yet another thing for a woman to do.

And no, it’s not like I just google hotels, I do sometimes spend nights in them, too.

A good hotel doesn’t necessarily have anything to do with the star rating. But the view from the balcony for example can matter a lot, if one travels alone. When travelling with someone, that someone is the view. Should you spend the night in the cheapest possible hotel with a sour hag glooming at the reception, you’d have no one wishing you good night and you’d end up being terribly homesick.

Yet even a five-star boutique hotel can be dispiriting, if the interior is too sterile and the staff obnoxious. Once, on a business trip, I stayed in a hotel in Barcelona where I couldn’t figure out how to use the shower. The tap design was so modern and complicated that I just couldn’t get the water running. I ended up washing my hair in the sink.

“I’m too stupid to use your shower”, I told the receptionist in checkout.

I miss the time when hotel key was attached to a heavy ball with the room number. In those days you didn’t take the key out with you.

By no means. The key was handed to the receptionist, who put it in its own little locker for safekeeping and gave it back to you when you asked for it on your return. These modern day keycards are dubious and unreliable. Too often on returning tired to the hotel and sticking the keycard to the reader the green light just doesn’t light up and you have to return to reception for one that functions.

At its best, a night in a hotel can function as a silent retreat. More than once it has happened that I haven’t managed to turn on the TV (too complicated system, too many buttons in the remote, an unfamiliar TV). On such occasions I make myself believe that it all has a deeper meaning. To be quiet and just contemplate between the crisp sheets. In a hotel room I feel that I have all the time in the world.

Many consider domestic hotels to be gloomy. One often stays there on business and too much is simply too much. But for me, not having working trips that often, even a night in an ordinary chain hotel is a treat. Everything is familiar and easy, yet one gets to be above the ordinary for a moment.

Sometimes parents who have small children spend a night in a hotel in their hometown just to get some “grown-up time”. Everyone understands that. I’d like to spend a night in a hotel in Helsinki sometime, even though I no longer have a small child. It’s ridiculous, I know, but the mere thought of a possibility for a mini vacation and a night in a totally different environment makes me happy when unfinished work at home seems to fall all over me.

A new hotel close to the ferries for Tallinn was recently opened in Helsinki. I’d like to spend a night there sometime, before taking a trip to Tallinn. I’m always restless on the night before a trip, so that might be eased by leaving a day earlier. But then again, there is the danger of being restless for two days, as one would be anxious to get to that Finnish hotel. Ok, I’m getting rather carried away with this.

But then again, it’s the only way to be for me.

Years ago my friend Anu gave herself a night in a hotel in her hometown for her own 18-year birthday. She had imagined it to be an experience of great grandeur. Her room was freezing cold. The radiator was switched off, but a young girl didn’t have the courage to go and demand anything from the reception, so Anu was freezing all night. So much for the grandeur. The breakfast, however, had felt luxurious.

A hotel breakfast is always an adventure. First, naturally, one must circle around to get an over-all understanding of what is served. Only after that can one start to gather food on the plate. In my opinion the best breakfasts are served in Thailand. Dim sums, noodles, smoothies, filled pancakes. Often even sparkling wine. And in Estonia one is often served slowly simmered barley porridge. A dish one seldom has the patience to make at home.

The Vietnamese hotels are wonderful, but sometimes the foreign language skills of the staff, despite the friendliness, are a bit limited.

Once I tried to order a glass of white wine. It didn’t work. I couldn’t get my message through. Not even when I drew a picture of a wine glass on a napkin. They did bring the glass, but it was empty. s (Parts of this column have been published previously in Finnish in Apu-magazine).

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Anna-Leena Härkönen is an author and an actor living in Helsinki. Along with over 20 books, her work includes plays and scripts.

Her latest novel Valomerkki (Last Call) was published in August 2017. A film adaptation of her book Kaikki oikein (The Winning Ticket) will be released in January 2018.

Photo: Jouni Harala

A night in a hotel

Written by Anna-Leena Härkönen Translated by Anna Eloaho

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