GOOD TO BE BACK

AFTER SIX YEARS AWAY, SHROPSHIRE CHEF CHRIS BURT HASRETURNED TO SHREWSBURY’S PEACH TREE. HE TELLS ANDY RICHARDSON ABOUT BRINGING THE GOOD TIMES BACK

Ithappened in less than aday.Popular Shropshire chef Chris Burt found himself moving back to the beloved restaurant he’d served for many years in adizzyingly fast chain of events that brought him ‘home’.

He’d left Shrewsbury’s Peach Tree some years ago, in order to seek out new opportunities. Those had come in the form of an Executive Chef post at the Mytton &Mermaid, before he’d moved onto Netley Hall.

Having to decide to exit the latter,he called the former owner of The Peach Tree, who’d vacated those premises following losses created by Covid.

“The chain of events was remarkable,” says Burt.“It was like amini whirlwind. The new owners of The Peach Tree heard I’d become available andtheyliterally wanted to meet me 10 minutes later They asked what Ithought needed to be done and that was it:weshook hands andwithin 24 hours Iwas back at my old stove.”

Burt finished at Netley Hall on aSunday,starting at ThePeach Tree thefollowing day.Itwas asort of homecoming.

“It was weird being back there, in away,but not in away.Everything had changed but nothing hadchanged. Within days, Ifound myself almost forgetting what had happened in the last six years. Those six years away felt like ahiatus.”

Burt’s staff from Netley went to work with him at his new kitchen and he devoted his time to working in the front of house, as well as at the pass. Driving up service skills and making dining abetter experience for customers was at the heart of his work.

“My full intention is to bring the good times back. Ithink we candothat with acompletely different experience. I’m not going to stop until that’s done. I’m already home. I’ve got my feet under the table. I’m comfortable with my ability and the team’s ability to get it back to what it was, which was the jewel in the crown of Shrewsbury’s restaurant scene.”

During Burt’s absence from Shrewsbury town centre, the county town welcomed anumber of new restaurants as independent operators sought to invest. Other,old favourites, kept their doors open through the most difficult period in living memory,where Covid lockdowns, spiralling energy costs, ashortage of staffand aslump in demand put untold pressures on operators.

As customers stayed away,seeking to manage household budgets, restaurants struggled. Yetthe present challenges will gradually pass and Burt is determined that during his second tenure at The Peach Tree, he’ll work alongside Shrewsbury’s new culinary talents.

“Wejust want to add to the town’s arsenal of gastronomic experiences. I’d rather work in tandem with the other restaurants than pit ourselves against them.There’s arealsense of purpose in Shrewsbury among chefs, people want to help each other out. We’re all in it together.”

Burt enjoyed his time at the Mytton & Mermaid and Netley Hall and views both as invaluable experiences that he’ll draw upon during his latest stint at The Peach Tree.

“I loved my time at the Mytton, it was priceless. But sometimes you have to go away to come backand realise what you’ve learned and what you’ve missed. Ididn’trealisehow much Imissed being back in Shrewsbury until Igot back into town.

“It’s great having that buzz again. Being in the town centre is great, and people are knocking on the door.For the most part, there’s alot of people walking past every day.”

Since Burt’s return, earlier this year, he’s already brought aboutchanges. Previously,the venue was open from 10am until 10pm. He’s changed those hours, to cater for the early-bird crew who are passing in themorning and want to pop in for acoffee or abacon sandwich.

“Wehad all these people walking past and the doors were closed. Then, later in the evening, we were until 10pm, but nobody wants to eat that late. So we moved to 8am-9pm, which means we can trade in the morning but avoid keeping the restaurant open late, when it’s costing money but nobody’s in.”

He’s also looking at other ideas. Anumber of customers wanted him to bring back his Japanese concept restaurant,Momo No Ki, and he’ll be agreeable to doing one-off nights. Rather than apermanent re-opening, however,he’ll be overseeing afarmshop, thatmeans people will no longer have to travel to theedge of town to get great meat, organic vegetables, and store cupboard ingredients.

“People will be able to get organic vegetables or brilliant deli stuff.Ifeel the town needs it. Appleyards is great but I really want to respond to demand and move things forward.”

Burt will reintroduce foodtoHavana Republic, with such items as Brazilian tapas. “I want to do something that’s really simple and abit left of centre.” He’ll also look at doing C21 nights, to cater to thosewho used to socialise in the former bar.

Most of all, though, he’s just glad to be back.

“Me coming back has changed things for the customers, too. I’ve never seen anything like it. My first Sunday lunch was sold out and it’s been sold out ever since. We’ve had Saturday nights where it’s only old regulars. I’ve never worked in aplace where 80 people have walked in or booked in aday,assoon as they heard the news. I’m taking food out and seating and greeting customers.They drag me away from what I’m doing andit’s the most flattering thing of all. It’s lovely.It’s been awarm, effervescent welcome. Peach Tree is an institution for Shropshire. People love it.”

Burt is happy to be back. And his customers are even happier