Kenya Water Buffalo Itinerary

You are a member of the Compass Club group...

Your safari features‌

The Maasai Mara National Reserve and

Samburu National Reserve Your Nairobi and safari accommodations include...

July 27 & 28 and Aug 2

Nairobi Serena Hotel Phone: 254-272-5111

July 29 & 30

Mara Serena Lodge Phone: 254-305-22253

July 31 & Aug 1

Samburu Intrepids (tented camp) Phone: 254-164-30813

Your Name: ____________________________________________________

Home Phone#: ________________________________________________

Safari SUDAN

L

UGANDA

A

L

Kenya

V

S A M BU RU

E Q U A T O R

SOMALIA

E

Y

ETHIOPIA

I F

MAASAI MARA

R

LAKE VICTORIA

T

Mt. Kenya

Nairobi

Serengeti Plain

A M B OS E L I Mt. Kilimanjaro

T

TANZANIA

S

O A V

Diani •

INDIAN OCEAN

Compass Club 2

0

0

2

All Materials © Spellman & Friends 2002

Dear Compass Club Member and Guest, Congratulations, or as they say in Kenya, “hongera”, and welcome to Compass Club 2002. This past year was unimaginably difficult for all of us. In spite of the turmoil and uncertainty you have focused, you have persevered, and all of us at CA appreciate your effort and applaud your accomplishments. I have been attending Compass Clubs for many years, and I can’t remember when I have been more honored to serve as host.

Kenya and the incredible wildlife parks provide an experience that you will remember forever. I have spent several weeks in Kenya and I can tell you that my adventures in this wonderful country have been emotionally and intellectually rewarding, and an awful lot of fun.

Now it is time to prepare for your trip, and to do so properly you will have to invest some time and effort. To help you we have written this trip booklet, which contains your specific Kenya itinerary, important planning information, and interesting details about the part of the world you will visit.

If you have any questions after reading it, please contact one of our CA Travel Specialists in Islandia. Once again, “hongera na karibu”, congratulations and welcome to Compass Club 2002. We look forward to seeing you in Kenya.

Sincerely, Sanjay

Important Included with this trip booklet you should find...

Airline Tickets Travel dates vary; Compass Club members from the same area may be traveling on different days. Therefore, please check your tickets carefully to be certain of your dates and times of travel.

• Some Compass Club members and guests will fly on regularly scheduled commercial airlines to New York or London and connect with one of our privately chartered aircraft to Nairobi. If this is the case, enclosed are: - Commercial airline tickets (one per person) from your home city to the charter departure city, and - CA Charter Flight Confirmation letter (one letter per couple).

• Some Compass Club members and guests either live within driving distance of New York’s Kennedy Airport, or London’s Gatwick Airport, or will otherwise make their own way to either of these airports and board one of our privately chartered aircraft to Nairobi. If this is the case, enclosed is: - CA Charter Flight Confirmation letter (one per couple).

• Some Compass Club members and guests will fly to and from their home city and Nairobi on commercial airlines.

If this is the case, enclosed are: - Round trip commercial airline tickets (one per person).

• Compass Club baggage tags - 2 per person. The safari animal on the front of your baggage tags should be the same as the animal on the cover of this trip booklet.

• A letter containing the names and telephone numbers of the hotels, lodges and/or tented camps you will be staying in during your trip.

If any of these items are missing, or if you have any questions about your flights, please call the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia at (800) 343-8781; outside the US call (636) 8274748. (When you hear the recorded message, follow the prompts and press “option 3” for the Incentive Travel Desk.)

Travel Info P 50

Travel Info

About Kenya P 76

About Kenya

On Safari P 94

On Safari

Big Five 102 The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

P

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

Travel Info About Kenya

On Safari The Big Five Plus Three What Happened to the Rhinos?

Reading P 127

Swahili P 120

The Rhino P 114

Big Five P 102

On Safari P 94

About Kenya P 76

Travel Info P 50

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

Swahili Reading

Index Accommodations ........................................................* Airline Tickets and Flight Information ....................50, 58 Animal Checklist ......................................................99 Awards Presentation and Dinner ................................ 71 Climate ....................................................................52 Clothing ..................................................................55 Customs (U.S.) ........................................................59 Compass Club Includes..............................................46 Dining ......................................................................71 Duty Free Import (Kenya)..........................................57 Electricity ................................................................56 Emergency Phone Numbers ......................................61 Gratuities ................................................................64 Health and Inoculations ............................................59 Incidental Expenses ..................................................63 Insurance..................................................................61 Itinerary, Day-by-Day ..................................................7 Itinerary at a Glance....................................................4 Jet Lag ....................................................................58 Kenya - Economy......................................................78 Kenya - Geography....................................................76 Kenya - Important Dates in History ............................79 Kenya, When in ........................................................66 Luggage - Allowance ............................................53-54 Luggage - Safari ........................................................53 Luggage Tags ............................................................54 Money Matters ........................................................62 Packing Suggestions ..................................................55 Passport ..................................................................52 Photography ............................................................64 Reading List ............................................................127 Safari ......................................................................94 Shopping ..................................................................72 Street Smarts (Security) ............................................68 Swahili ..............................................................77, 120 Telephone Calls and E-Mail ........................................73 Time Zone ..............................................................57 Visa - Kenya ............................................................52 Water ......................................................................60 Weights and Measures ..............................................74 * For a description of your accommodations, please refer to the Day-by-Day Itinerary section of this booklet.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

1

2

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

P

7

July 26/27

Friday, July 26 or Saturday, July 27

P

13 P

16 P

22 P

25 P

32 P

36 P

39 P

44

August 3

Saturday, August 3

August 2

Friday, August 2

August 1

Thursday, August 1

July 31

Wednesday, July 31

July 30

Tuesday, July 30

July 29

Monday, July 29

July 28

Sunday, July 28

July 27

Saturday, July 27

Your Compass Club Safari at a Glance Friday, July 26 or Saturday, July 27

Depart home city for Nairobi.

Please refer to your airline ticket and/or charter flight confirmation for details.

Saturday, July 27 or Sunday, July 28

Arrive Nairobi. Check into the Nairobi Serena Hotel

If you arrive on July 27...

7:30-9:30 p.m.

Dinner in the hotel dining room

Sunday, July 28 If you arrived yesterday...

7:00-10:00 a.m.

Breakfast in the ballroom 10:30 a.m.-2:45 p.m.

Nairobi City Tour plus Giraffe Sanctuary and lunch at the Karen Blixen House If you arrive today...

12:00-2:00 p.m.

2:30-5:30 p.m.

7:00-10:00 p.m.

Lunch in the ballroom Nairobi City Tour plus Giraffe Sanctuary and visit to the Karen Blixen House “Welcome to Kenya� dinner ballroom Overnight in the Nairobi Serena Hotel

Monday, July 29 6:30-9:30 a.m.

10:15 a.m.

11:45 a.m.

Buffet breakfast in the ballroom Depart for Wilson Airport and your flight to the Maasai Mara National Reserve Arrive in the Mara Check into the Mara Serena Lodge

2.1 4

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

12:30-2:00 p.m.

2:00 p.m.

3:00 p.m.

7:30-9:30 p.m.

Lunch at the lodge Briefing by local naturalist Afternoon game drive Dinner at the lodge Overnight in the Mara Serena Lodge

Tuesday, July 30 6:30 a.m.

10:30 a.m.

12:30-2:00 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

7:00 p.m.

7:30 p.m.

Morning game drive and Safari Breakfast Return to lodge Lunch at the lodge Afternoon game drive Reception - poolside Barbecue Dinner - poolside Overnight in the Mara Serena Lodge

Wednesday, July 31 5:45-6:15 a.m.

6:30 a.m.

7:00 a.m.

8:15 a.m.

12:30-2:00 p.m.

3:00 p.m.

4:00 p.m.

7:30-9:30 p.m.

Breakfast at the lodge Depart the lodge for the airfield Flight to the Samburu National Reserve Arrive in Samburu Game drive en route to the Samburu Intrepids (tented camp) Lunch at the camp Briefing by local naturalist Afternoon game drive inner at the camp Overnight in the Samburu Intrepids

Thursday, August 1 6:30 a.m.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Morning game drive Breakfast served at the camp until 9:30 a.m.

5

10:30 a.m.

12:30-2:00 p.m.

2:30 p.m.

7:30-9:30 p.m.

Mid-morning game drive Lunch at the camp Depart for visit to the Samburu Village followed by afternoon game drive and Sundowner Cocktails Dinner at the Camp Overnight in the Samburu Intrepids

Friday, August 2 6:30-8:00 a.m.

7:00-9:00 a.m.

9:15 a.m.

11:00 a.m.

12:00-2:00 p.m.

3:00-5:00 p.m.

5:30 p.m.

Game drive Breakfast at the camp Depart for the flight to Nairobi Arrive Wilson Airport Nairobi Check into the Nairobi Serena Hotel Lunch in the ballroom CA London & JFK Charter flight check-in takes place in the ballroom Depart for the Compass Club Awards Ceremony and Dinner at the Carnivore Restaurant Overnight in the Nairobi Serena Hotel

Saturday, August 3 Depart Nairobi for home. For details concerning your departure, please refer to the letter you received when you returned to Nairobi yesterday.

Saturday, August 3 or Sunday, August 4

6

Arrive home

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

Nyati Day-by-Day Itinerary Friday, July 26 or Saturday, July 27

Airlines now request that you arrive at the airport at least two hours prior to departure time for international flights. Curbside check-in of luggage is not permitted for international flights, so you will have to bring your luggage to the ticket counter and have it checked there. The airline agent will want to see both your airline ticket and passport, so have both handy when you check in. It should come as no surprise, that security at the airports has tightened since September 11. Please check your hand luggage

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

7

July 26/27

DEPART YOUR HOME CITY AND CONNECT TO YOUR NAIROBI FLIGHT...

Please take a moment to check your airline tickets to be sure of your airline and departure time. Many of you will be boarding our privately chartered flights to Nairobi from either JFK Airport in New York, or Gatwick Airport in London. Some of you will be flying on scheduled commercial airlines from your home city to Nairobi. Your airline tickets and/or charter flight confirmations should be enclosed with this booklet. If you have not received your tickets and/or charter flight confirmations, or if you have any questions regarding your itinerary, now is the time to call the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia at (800) 343-8781; outside the US call (636) 827-4748. (When you hear the recorded message, follow the prompts and press “option 3” for the Incentive Travel Desk.)

Before leaving home for the airport, please check to make sure you have the following in your possession: ❑ Passports with attached visas ❑ Airline tickets and/or CA charter flight confirmations ❑ Malaria medication and any necessary prescription medicine CA Safari bags and luggage with CA ❑ luggage tags attached ❑ Cash and traveler’s checks ❑ Camera and plenty of film

carefully to make sure you have no sharp objects such as knives or knitting needles.

If you have a long layover between flights...

Because of the airlines’ schedules, a few of you may have a layover of 6 or more hours between flights. If so, CA will arrange for a hotel room in your connecting city. If this is your situation, you will find with your airline tickets a letter explaining the procedure to follow when you arrive in your connecting city and in which hotel your room has been reserved.

In case of flight delays en route...

If you are delayed and miss your connecting flight, please call one of the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia at (800) 343-8781; outside the US call (636) 827-4748. (When you hear the recorded message, follow the prompts and press “option 3” for the Incentive Travel Desk.) Our agents will book you on the next available flight and inform our Travel Staff in Nairobi of your new arrival time.

Kenya Immigration Card...

Sometime during your flight the attendants will distribute a Kenya Immigration Card. Prior to landing you should fill in the information required. The form will ask for your address in Kenya. Simply fill in the name of your Nairobi hotel. You will be required to give this card to the immigration officer when you enter Kenya.

If you are traveling first on a regularly scheduled airline and then connecting to the New York/Nairobi private CA charter flight on Friday, July 26... you may check your luggage only as far as New York (airline code JFK). You must then claim your luggage and proceed to the designated check-in area for the charter flight, located in Northwest Airlines Terminal #4. We have a private check-in area, so when you arrive at the terminal, please proceed to the check-in counters and look for the CA signs. If your luggage does not arrive with you, you must contact the airline and complete a lost luggage report. It is very important that you also notify the CA Travel Staff who greets you at Kennedy Airport.

8

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

If you are traveling to New York from a foreign country ...

Important United States Immigration Information...

If you are traveling from a foreign country to the United States to board our charter flight and you are a citizen of a country that requires a visa to enter the U.S., make sure you apply for a multiple entry visa. The reason is that you will be entering the U.S. twice; once today and once again on August 3rd. So far as we can determine there are no exceptions to this rule. If you are uncertain whether you need a visa, please check with your local CA office, or call the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia.

If you are driving to Kennedy Airport to board the charter... please proceed to Northwest Terminal #4 and look for the CA signs and our private check-in counter.

1:00 - 6:00 p.m.

Check-in for Northwest Airlines Charter flight #9988 Note: All luggage leaving JFK must be x-rayed and this will take some time, so please check-in no later than 5:30 p.m. If you are on a flight from your home city and you arrive in New York after 6:00 p.m., don’t despair. You may still check-in until 7:00 p.m. We do ask, however, that anyone who can do so please check-in no later than 5:30 p.m.

7:30 p.m.

Northwest Charter flight #9988 departs for Nairobi Once on board your aircraft, it’s time to sit back, relax and do your best to enjoy your overnight flight. Dinner and beverages will be served, but to help fight the effects of “jet lag”, don’t eat too much, try to get some sleep, and despite the temptation, try not to drink alcoholic beverages.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

9

July 26/27

keep in mind that Kennedy Airport does not have an “in transit” area. Therefore you must pass first through U.S. Immigration, then claim your luggage, then clear U.S. Customs, then exit the building. Once outside the customs hall, look for the yellow airline connector bus which will take you to Terminal #4.

Our chartered 747 will need to stop in Europe to refuel.

That stop is scheduled to take place in Rome. Flying time from New York to Rome is about 8 hours and the time difference is 6 hours.

9:20 a.m.

Arrive in Rome for refueling The refueling process will take about one hour.

The Italian Airport Authorities require that you remain on the aircraft while it is being refueled.

During the Rome stop, our Italian Compass Club members and guests may board the flight. If you have changed seats during the flight from New York, the flight crew will ask you to take your originally assigned seat until the aircraft has left Rome. Flying time to Nairobi is about 8 hours. The time difference between Rome and Nairobi is 1 hour.

If you are traveling first on a regularly scheduled airline and then connecting to the London/Nairobi private CA charter flight on Saturday, July 27 ... you may check your luggage only as far as London Gatwick (airline code LGW). You must then claim your luggage and proceed to the designated check-in area for this flight, which is in the South Terminal - Zone “J” between ticket counters 19-36. If you are traveling from outside the U.K. to London, you will not be allowed to remain “in transit”. This is true whether your flight is directly to Gatwick or arrives into London Heathrow.

Therefore you must pass first through British Immigration, then claim your luggage, clear British Customs, and finally exit the building. (If you are a citizen of a country which requires a visa to visit the United Kingdom, please refer to the section below.) Once outside the customs hall, look for the uniformed staff with the Compass Club signs who will direct you to the Satellite Train for the 5 minute ride to the South Terminal. If your luggage does not arrive with you,

10

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

you must locate the airline representative in the baggage claim area and complete a lost luggage report. It is very important that you also notify the CA Travel Staff at our private charter check-in area.

July 26/27

Important United Kingdom Immigration Information...

If you are traveling from a foreign country to London to board our charter flight and you are a citizen of a country that requires a visa to enter the U.K., you must have a multiple entry visa. Note that citizens of some countries which normally require visas to enter the U.K. are allowed a grace period without a visa, provided that you have proof that you are connecting to a flight departing the U.K. within 24 hours. All of you should qualify for this exemption.

However, we have Compass Club qualifiers from 42 countries coming to Kenya. Although we try to keep current with immigration requirements, it will come as no surprise to anyone who travels regularly that the rules have been changing rapidly. If in doubt about your status, please check to make sure you qualify for this exemption.

If you are driving to Gatwick Airport to board the charter... please proceed to the South Terminal - Zone “J” and look for the CA signs and our private check-in area which will be between counters 19 and 36..

5:30 - 8:30 p.m.

Check-in for European Aviation Air Charter flight #4034 If you are on a flight from your home city and you arrive in London after 8:30 p.m., don’t worry. We do have the ability to check you in for the flight after 8:30 p.m., so you should still go to the South Terminal - Zone “J” and checkin. We do ask, however, that anyone who can do so please check-in no later than 7:30 p.m.

10:00 p.m.

European Aviation Air Charter #4034 departs for Nairobi Once on board your aircraft, it’s time to sit back, relax and enjoy your overnight flight. Dinner and beverages will be served. Flying time to Nairobi is about 8.5 hours. (The time difference between London and Nairobi is 2 hours.)

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

11

If you are traveling on a regularly scheduled commercial airline to Nairobi...

At your home airport please advise the airline representative at the ticket counter that you want to check your luggage through to Nairobi (airline code NBO). Before walking away from the airline counter, look at the claim checks to see that your luggage has been tagged properly.

It is likely that the airline schedule from your home city to Nairobi dictates that you stop in another city en route. If this is the case, when you arrive at the “stopover” city you should follow the signs to the “In Transit” area to wait for your continuing flight to Kenya. Unless specifically told otherwise by the airline personnel, or unless you plan to leave the airport in your connecting city, do not attempt to clear immigration in the “stopover” city. Nor should you try to claim your luggage in your connecting city. If your luggage has been checked through properly to Nairobi, the airlines will transfer it to your connecting flight. Please keep in mind that the above describes “standard operating procedure”. There are very few exceptions to this rule and they are generally caused by lengthy flight delays.

12

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

Saturday, July 27 NEW YORK CHARTER ARRIVES NAIROBI 6:35 p.m.

The New York Charter Flight is scheduled to arrive in Nairobi

Arrival in Nairobi

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

13

July 27

Karibu! (Welcome!) Upon arrival, you will be directed to Kenyan Immigration where you will be required to show your passport and visa, and surrender the Kenya Immigration Card you received on the aircraft. Although all of you should have obtained your visa before leaving home, if for some reason you were not able to do so before your departure, you may purchase a visa here in Nairobi.

Before you arrive at the immigration counter, you will see a sign for Kenya Visas. It will be necessary to complete a form and pay a visa fee of US$50 or the equivalent in a “hard” currency such as one of the Western European currencies. As you would expect, this process will take quite a while. After clearing immigration you may proceed to the baggage claim area to collect your luggage. Luggage carts are available for your use at no charge.

If you do not see your luggage in the baggage claim area, please locate your airline representative and inform him or her of the situation. You will be required to complete a lost luggage form before leaving the airport. In addition, please report the loss to the member of the Compass Club Travel Staff who greets you outside of the customs area. Our staff will stay in contact with the airlines and help locate your luggage. But, because of the limited number of flights to Nairobi, delayed luggage usually does not catch up with its owner for at least 24 hours, and that’s being optimistic.

With this in mind, we suggest you pack a clean shirt, personal items, prescription medicine, and anything you can’t live without in your carry-on bag.

After you have collected your luggage, you may then clear Kenyan Customs. (see Duty Free Allowance in the Travel Information section of this booklet) Unlike many countries, in Kenya you are not required to complete a customs form. Once outside the customs hall, the Compass Club Travel Staff will greet you and direct you to transportation for the 30 minute ride to the hotel.

YOUR NAIROBI HOTEL...

The Nairobi Serena Nestled among the lush garden surroundings of Nairobi’s Central Park, the Nairobi Serena Hotel has been selected as one of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World”. The Serena’s facilities include a mini-bar in each room, hand-crafted furniture and African art, satellite television, 24-hour room service, and the Maisha fitness club. Café Maghreb offers informal alfresco dining by the pool. Theme lunches are served both buffet style and a la carte. The famous Mandhari (Swahili for “landscape”) restaurant is known for its distinct use of authentic Kenyan foods. Guests can even enjoy their meal from a balcony offering a famous view of the Nairobi skyline. Complementing the hotel’s facilities are a staff of true hoteliers who will see to it that your stay with them is a most pleasant part of your African experience.

Hotel Address and Phone: Nairobi Serena Hotel Kenyatta Avenue PO Box 46302 Nairobi, Kenya Phone: 254-272-5111 Fax: 254-272-5184 Note: You will be staying in the Nairobi Serena Hotel both before you leave for safari and again when you return to Nairobi for our Awards Presentation and Dinner.

To accommodate all of our Compass Club qualifiers, we will be using several of Nairobi’s best hotels. All hotels are in the downtown area and all are located within a 5-7 minute taxi ride of each other. If you wish to contact someone from another CA office, please come to the Hospitality Desk in your hotel where the staff will have a complete housing list.

Hotel Check-in Procedure Upon arrival at your Nairobi hotel, the Compass Club Travel Staff will direct you to our private hotel check-in area. Next, onto Compass Club Registration where you may pick up your welcome gift and enjoy some

14

YOUR I TINER ARY

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

July 27

7:30 - 9:30 p.m.

You are free to have dinner at your leisure in the hotel dining room. Your dinner and beverages, including preselected red and white wine, are compliments of Computer Associates. When presented with the bill, please sign your name and print your room number and the letters “CA�. The gratuity/service charge is included.

Itinerary

refreshments before going to your room. During this time, porters will take your luggage to your room.

15

Sunday, July 28 LONDON CHARTER ARRIVES/SIGHTSEEING AND WELCOME DINNER 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

The Compass Club Hospitality Desk is open in the lobby of the hotel.

9:30 a.m.

The London charter flight is scheduled to arrive in Nairobi. Please refer to the “Arrival in Nairobi� description above.

If you arrived in Nairobi yesterday...

7:00 - 10:00 a.m.

A private buffet breakfast is served in the ballroom 10:30 a.m. - 2:45 p.m.

Please join us for sightseeing of Nairobi followed by a visit to the Giraffe Sanctuary and lunch at the Karen Blixen House.

If you arrive in Nairobi today...

12:00 - 2:00 p.m.

A private CA buffet lunch will be served in the ballroom.

2:30 - 5:30 p.m.

Please join us for sightseeing of Nairobi followed by a visit to the Giraffe Sanctuary and the Karen Blixen House.

Tour of Nairobi, the Giraffe Manor, and the Karen Blixen House The adventure begins with a 30 minute ride through Nairobi. Although humans have lived in this part of the world longer than anywhere else, Nairobi has only been around for about 100 years. In 1896 the British felt the need to build a railroad from Mombasa to Lake Victoria, a northwest stretch of 620 miles (1,000 k.). Mr. George Whitehorse, general manager of the railroad, decided he wanted his headquarters to be halfway between the coast and Lake Victoria, so he looked around for a large flat piece of land from which he could service his train.

16

YOUR I TINER ARY

17

July 28

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Itinerary

The place decided upon was referred to by locals as “the place of cool waters”; the word in Maasai is “Nairobi”. The railroad headquarters soon became a shantytown covering an area of about 1 square mile and four years later in 1900, Nairobi replaced the centuries old Mombasa as the capital of East Africa. Today the city has grown to 270 square miles (700 sq km), or about 300 times its original size. With a population estimated to be between 1.5 and 2.5 million (nobody knows for sure), Nairobi is the largest city south of Cairo and north of Johannesburg. As you will see on the tour, the resources of the city are limited – too many people, too few jobs and not enough housing. When looking at Nairobi, however, try to remember how far this city has come rather than how far it has to go. For with all of the endemic problems of the “Third World”, Nairobi, a United Nations headquarters city, is the showplace of Africa south of the Sahara, and a political and economic model for surrounding countries. It is a city of museums, art, culture, education, and humanity. Furthermore, Nairobi is home to some of the friendliest and most decent people you are likely to meet in your lives. (After a visit to Nairobi, many people ask if there is anything they can do to help. If you are interested, please refer to the section: “What Can We Do To Help?” in the “When in Kenya...” pages of this booklet.)

During the tour you will drive past the old Railway Museum (where it all started), past the Parliament Buildings, and through the city center where the old colonial architecture clashes with the new. Your guide will also take you by “God’s Corner”, so called because Catholic, Lutheran, and Presbyterian churches occupy three corners and a synagogue sits on the fourth. You will then visit Upper Hill for a panoramic view of the city.

Leaving the city, you’ll drive south for about 25 minutes before arriving at Kenya’s Giraffe Manor. Operated by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, this sanctuary has been successful at boosting the population of the rare Rothschild’s Giraffe. One of the reasons for the visit is the fact that giraffes tend to be shy creatures. Although you will certainly see a bunch of them on safari, you will not get this close again. Make sure you take the short walk up the observation tower so you can be eye to eye with the tallest living things on earth.

From the giraffe center, it is a short ride to the Karen Blixen House. Although the house is just a few kilometers from Nairobi, you will find yourself in another world.

Karen Blixen, also known as Isak Dinesen, was one of the great pioneers of East Africa. She was born in Denmark in 1885 and came to Kenya in 1914. She married her Swedish half-cousin Baron Bror Blixen-Finecke. In 1917 the couple bought this house from a Swedish farmer. Karen and Bror began to farm coffee in the 6,000 acres of land you see surrounding the house. For the complete story you will have to read Out of Africa, Karen’s account of her life and times here. The very short version is that after a while she and Bror didn’t get along, especially after he gave her syphilis. She had a famous love affair with Denys FinchHatton who was killed in a plane crash. The coffee plantation failed. In 1931 she left for Denmark never to return, but she always maintained that her years in Kenya were her happiest. Karen Blixen died on September 7, 1962.

Those on the morning tour will have lunch on the grounds of the home. Those on the afternoon tour will have lunch in the hotel before beginning the tour.

In addition to the Blixen House visit, during this adventure you will have some time for shopping. We realize that you have promised to bring home souvenirs for friends and family. Considering the fact that shopping in Kenya’s

18

YOUR I TINER ARY

This afternoon you will receive a “Departure Letter” containing detailed information regarding your flight from Nairobi tomorrow and a boarding pass. AirKenya has kindly agreed to eliminate lengthy check-in procedures at the airport, but to do so they need to know exactly who is flying on which aircraft. Therefore, to comply with Kenyan security regulations we have assigned you to a specific flight and we are not able to change your flight assignment.

Please keep in mind that the flight is brief, so if you are not on the same aircraft with your friends, you will still be able to join them in a couple of hours. If you have any questions about your flight or the departure schedule, please contact a member of the Compass Club Travel Staff.

7:00 - 10:00 p.m.

“Welcome to Kenya” Reception and Dinner Get together this evening in the ballroom with other Compass Club members and their guests for a “Welcome to Kenya” reception and dinner. If you have any questions regarding your schedule for tomorrow, how to store your excess luggage, or what time you will leave the hotel, please contact a member of the Compass Club Travel Staff.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

19

July 28

Safari Departure Information

Itinerary

national parks is not the best, we have arranged for women of the local Maasai tribes to bring in the handicrafts they make in their villages. You will see many similar articles for two or three times the price in the Nairobi shops. This will be the first time the Maasai have come to the Karen Blixen house and we are not quite sure how many folks will actually show up. Estimates are running anywhere between 17 and 483. But Mary Obote, the curator of the Karen Blixen House, and Chief Kihanya, the local Maasai elder, are on the project so we expect good things. You may bargain somewhat, but please keep in mind that the average Kenyan makes less than one U.S. dollar per day. If at all possible, it is best to deal in Kenyan shillings. Please understand that the Maasai have survived without money for hundreds of years, so you can’t expect them to convert shillings to anything else. One other thing, they don’t accept American Express... (or any other credit card, or traveler’s checks for that matter).

Tomorrow you’ll fly from Nairobi to begin your four nights on safari...

In fact, tomorrow approximately 800 Compass Club members and their guests will fly on 27 chartered aircraft to 23 hotels, lodges and tented camps all over Kenya. To do this efficiently we need to ask your cooperation. So please take a few moments to make sure that: • Your luggage is packed.

• Your cameras and film are in order.

• You know the location of your international airline/charter tickets, money and passports.

• You have any prescription medicine and eyeglasses in your carry-on bag.

Most of all, we ask that you please be prompt.

Understand that we cannot delay transportation to the airport or our CA charters. If you do miss your flight, we will put you on the next available commercial flight. But please understand that the schedules are limited and the next available flight may be the day after tomorrow.

Before leaving Nairobi, please consider...

Stored Luggage As a reminder: If you are going on safari, you have a 14 kg (30 lb) luggage limit. If you have exceeded this limit, or you simply wish to store luggage in Nairobi until you return on August 2nd, please come to the Hospitality Desk to pick up one “Stored Luggage” tag per suitcase. Then, when you are ready to depart for the airport, just leave the luggage you wish to leave behind in your hotel room near the door. The porters will collect your luggage and keep it in a locked room until you return to the hotel. This is a service the hotel regularly offers to its guests and you can rest assured that your luggage will be safe.

Storing your Passports and Airline Tickets We understand that many of you feel the need to keep your passports with you at all times. However, we have found that most passports are lost when their owners move from place to place, which is exactly what you will be doing for the next four days. If you think you will need to change traveler’s checks while on safari, then you should

20

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

bring your passports with you. If not, then you should consider leaving your passports and airline tickets in our private CA Security Box in your Nairobi hotel. If you wish to do so, please visit the Hospitality Desk where you will find a supply of envelopes in which you can place your documents. You may then give your passports and international airline tickets to a designated member of the travel staff who is responsible for seeing that your documents are locked securely in the CA Security Box until your return.

Changing Your Currency into Kenya Shillings

July 28

The lodges and tented camps have limited currency exchange capability. Therefore, we strongly suggest you change some of your money or traveler’s checks into Kenya shillings before leaving Nairobi.

Hotel Check-Out You will find this procedure very easy. You don’t have to check-out of the hotel. When you are ready to leave the hotel, simply return your key to the hotel reception desk.

Why no check-out? Because you will return to the same Nairobi hotel on August 2nd, therefore the hotel management has agreed to keep your bill and allow you to pay any incidental charges before leaving the hotel on August 3rd.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

21

Monday, July 29 NAIROBI/THE MAASAI MARA This morning you’ll fly from Nairobi to the Maasai Mara.

Yesterday you received a letter reconfirming your flight schedule for today and a boarding pass. The schedule you will see in this booklet was correct at the time of printing, but as they say in Kenya: “kuharisha happens”. So please refer to the letter and boarding pass for the latest schedule.

If you have any questions, please contact the Travel Staff at the Compass Club Hospitality Desk.

From 6:30 a.m.

The Compass Club Hospitality Desk is open in the lobby of your hotel.

6:30 to 9:30 a.m.

Breakfast A private buffet breakfast is served in the ballroom.

10:15 a.m.

Depart Hotel Transportation to Wilson Airport will depart from the front door of the hotel. To avoid confusing your luggage with that of other groups, please carry your CA Safari bags to the front door 15 minutes before the time you are scheduled to leave. If you have not exchanged your currency for Kenya shillings and wish to do so with the hotel cashier, please allow yourself an additional 15 minutes.

Prior to boarding the coach, make sure you identify your luggage and watch it loaded onto the vehicle. The ride to Wilson Airport will take about 30 minutes.

At the airport the Travel Staff will direct you to the appropriate boarding area. Don’t worry about getting lost, there is only one departure gate. Your luggage will be weighed and loaded onto the aircraft. This will be your last chance to use the toilet facilities for some time, so take advantage of the opportunity. When your flight is called, the staff will escort you to the plane.

Once on board, sit back, relax and enjoy the 50 minute trip to the Mara. Soon the vast expanse of the Maasai Mara will come into view. Keep your cameras ready, you are about to encounter, as Elspeth Huxley wrote: “...by far the greatest collection of plains-dwelling animals left in the

22

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

world today. It is a microcosm of what most of east and central Africa was like little more than half a century ago...”

12:30 - 2:00 p.m.

Lunch Lunch is served in the lodge dining room. As a reminder, CA is picking up the cost of lunch, water, juice, and nonalcoholic beverages. If you wish to have a beer or wine with lunch, you may sign the bill to your account, or pay cash.

2:00 p.m.

Maasai Mara Naturalist Briefing Just prior to your first game drive, we have invited one of the local naturalists to speak to our group. He will discuss the incredible display of fauna you are about to encounter and answer any questions you may have.

3:00 p.m.

Afternoon Game Drive Meet your driver/guide at the front door for your first game drive. We don’t have to tell you that this is a very exciting event. If you are feeling like a kid again, don’t be embarrassed. U.S. President Teddy Roosevelt said: “Africa, as old as it is, makes all people....into children. No one says to anyone in Africa, ‘Why don’t you grow up?’” Before boarding the safari cruiser, make sure you apply sunscreen

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

23

July 29

11:45 a.m.

Arrive in the Maasai Mara After touching down on the airfield, your Compass Club Travel Staff will assist you in boarding the safari cruisers for the short ride to the Mara Serena Lodge.

Located in the wild west of the Maasai Mara on the northern tip of the Serengeti Plain, the lodge is built to look like a modern rendition of the typical Maasai manyatta (village). Each of the clean well-maintained rooms is actually its own bungalow and is equipped with twin beds, electrical outlets, and complete bathroom. Lodge facilities include a lounge, dining room, and a swimming pool. What you’ll remember most about your stay at the Mara Serena, however, are the spectacular views you’ll have of the Maasai Mara savannah and the background of the Riverine forest with the silhouetted hills beyond.

After check-in there will be time to unpack before coming to lunch.

and bring your hat, sunglasses, camera and more film than you think you’ll need.

The Maasai Mara Game Reserve Located just 105 miles (175 km) south of the equator, the Maasai Mara Game Reserve is one of nature’s miracles.

Because the Mara is to the east of Lake Victoria, the reserve is treated to heavy spring rains, making the vegetation green when other parks are dry. As many as three million wildebeest, topi and zebra travel north each July from the neighboring Serengeti Plain in Tanzania at the sniff of a promise – a promise of sweet water and rich grasses.

Other game you may see include elephant, giraffe, cheetah, leopard, baboon, black rhinoceros, warthog, hyena, crocodile, hippopotamus, a dozen or so types of antelope, and zillions of birds. The Mara is also home to the largest lion population in Kenya.

On return from safari, confirm your morning game drive time with your guide.

7:30 - 9:30 p.m.

Dinner in the Lodge Dinner is served in the lodge’s dining room. Reservations are not necessary. As a reminder, tonight and every night while you are on safari, CA is picking up the cost of dinner and beverages consumed during the meal, including: water, juice, non-alcoholic beverages, beer and pre-selected wine.

Special wines, champagne and after dinner drinks are a personal expense.

Hint: If you are taking a daily Malaria preventative, you should take the tablet at the same time every day.

24

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

Tuesday, July 30 THE MAASAI MARA “....something wonderful was certain to happen on every day in this part of Africa. Every morning when you woke it was as exciting as though you were going to compete in a downhill ski race or drive a bobsled on a fast run.

Something, you know, would happen and usually before eleven o’clock. I never know of a morning in Africa when I woke that I was not happy.” Ernest Hemingway, 1953.

12:30 - 2:00 p.m.

Lunch is served in the dining room.

Lunch

3:30 p.m.

Afternoon Game Drive Meet your guide at the front door of the lodge for the afternoon game drive. Previously, we have given you some information about the park. We thought we would take a few moments to provide you with some information about the people after whom the reserve is named.

One of the most famous of the Kenyan tribes, the Maasai and their distant cousins, the Samburu, originally came from the Nile Valley. A traditionally pastoral and nomadic people, the Maasai gradually moved south where

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

25

July 30

6:30 a.m.

Morning Game Drive/Safari Breakfast Meet your guide at the front door. Coffee is available from 6:00 a.m. Remember, it will be a couple of hours from the time you leave the camp until your next toilet stop, so please plan accordingly. It will be cool this morning, so bring a jacket or sweatshirt.

The lodge staff has planned something special for us this morning. At the end of the game drive they have set up a private breakfast along the banks of a secluded stretch of the Mara River. This is a great event. Just you, the rest of the “Nyati” and about 6,000 hippos which inhabit the game reserve. After breakfast your guide will drive you back to camp. You should be back by about 10:30 a.m.

Then you’ll have time to relax before lunch.

If you choose not to participate in the game drive, you may have breakfast in the lodge between 7:00 and 9:30 a.m.

Maasai Mara National Reserve T

N

A

IV

Kichwa Tembo

Mara Simba

0

Mara Intrepids

Mara Safari Club Voyager

R

R

E

Governor’s Camp

Mara Serena Lodge

IA R A RIVER

N

K E N YA

A

Z

MA

TA

Keekorok Lodge

N

5

LEK

ER

10 km

RIV

Siana Springs

YOUR I TINER ARY

26

RA

MA

27

July 30

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Itinerary

they interacted with indigenous Cushites tribes in the Lake Turkana Region of Kenya. By the 14th century they occupied much of the Rift Valley and its highlands south into Tanzania. The Maasai were at this time a large and powerful tribe who were feared by their neighbors for their predatory raids on women and cattle. Their dominance and raids lasted until the British took control of Kenya. To make room for colonial settlement, the British drove the Maasai away from the highlands to the Maasai Mara in southern Kenya, where most of the tribe lives today.

They number about 250,000, or about 1% of the population of Kenya.

Both adolescent male and female Maasai are circumcised as a rite of passage. The adult males circumcise the young men, and the adult females circumcise the young women. Females are not circumcised until they are ready for marriage, which is sometime around 17. Until that time they are allowed to have sex with Maasai men. After the circumcision, their lot in life is to marry and have children.

Marriages are arranged. (Note: Those of you who attended Compass Club in Rio will remember Tom, our Kenyan friend. Tom was the man who was in our Kenya announcement video and then on stage with Sanjay. Well, we were speaking with Tom a couple of months ago and he informed us that he was getting married in the fall. We asked, “Who’s the lucky girl?” Tom replied, “I don’t know”.)

Once married, women are permitted to have children with any man of their choice belonging to their husbands’ age group, but the husband must agree to the deal. A man may have several wives. One Maasai chief we know of has 10 wives and 80 children. Each wife has her own hut.

Children are looked after by all members of the village. In 1910, W.S. Routledge wrote With a Prehistoric People, which was perhaps the first book whose subject was the daily lives of the East Africans. In the book he relays a conversation with Mungé, chief of a Maasai clan: “Polygamy is the norm in most parts of Africa. The women have often been the first to defend it....It is not merely a question of domestic arrangement, but of social organization. The poverty stricken condition of the “rich” white man in respect of wives aroused in the Maasai unfailing interest. I attempted to explain

that a white woman preferred to have her husband to herself. My explanation fell flat. “Exactly the opposite view is the case”, Mungé assured us as we sat around the camp fire. “The first wife will soon say, ‘Why have I all the work; why do you not buy another wife?... If there is much food and drink to get ready, it is very hard work for one, it is very easy for many.

The first wife retains her pre-eminence, and her first child is regarded as the eldest, even if it should have been born after that of a later wife. The first wife is usually about the same age as the husband; the man’s later wives are considerably younger than he is, and the older he grows, the more difference there is in the age between himself and his latest acquisition.

Sentiment and prestige are thus on the side of being an early comer in the matrimonial establishment; on the other hand, some girls of a practical turn of mind prefer to marry older and richer men.

It is quite unusual to come across a man with only one wife; many such exist, but this is by force of circumstance, and is a sign of poverty. Two or three wives is a fairly ordinary allowance, while the rich man has six or seven. The chief Karuri is said to have as many as sixty. It is impossible to believe that there are no heartburnings and jealousies in a homestead, but I have never heard of such, and the fact that each wife has her own shamba (hut) places the footing of the whole village under one head man.”

28

YOUR I TINER ARY

29

July 30

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Itinerary

The notion of the Maasai “warrior” has always intrigued us. “A Maasai warrior is a fine sight,” Karen Blixen wrote.

They are proud, handsome, and classically athletic.

Warriors, called “morani,” wear elaborate black headresses made of ostrich feathers, red cloaks tied on one shoulder, several tiny strings of red, blue, black, green and yellow beads coiled around their necks, and rusty red ochre in their hair. We tend to think of the Maasai warrior as an African version of the Knights of the Round Table, but instead of slaying dragons, they kill lions. Here’s the story: First of all, every Maasai male is a warrior for an indefinite period spanning a few years between the time he is a boy and the time he is married. So you can see, warriors are not selected because of their bravery, but simply because they fit into a certain age group. The warriors are collectively responsible for protecting the clan, the village, and the cattle.

Every few years the Maasai elders will agree that it is time to enlist a batch of warriors and hold a ceremony.

Let’s say, for example, all the young men in the village between the ages of 14 and 18 are to be made warriors.

The clan holds the warrior ceremony, the new warriors assume their responsibilities and the “old” warriors (ages 18-22) are retired from service and are free to marry. The glamorous (to us anyway) part of the initiation rite is that the warriors must go out and kill a male lion. Contrary to common myth, this is not an act done by a solitary warrior,

but a group event. Nevertheless, it is scary as hell to go out there and try to stab a male lion to death with a spear.

I don’t care how many warriors you have with you. After the kill, the young men decide which of them was the most aggressive. That warrior is awarded the lion’s mane, which he then has the right to wear around his head. During the time the young men serve as warriors, they have virtually no rules other than tribal taboos and they have very little contact with their mothers. The warriors may have relations with single women of the clan pretty much when they feel like it. And no woman is allowed to touch the plaited hair of a warrior.

Maasai homes are circular, as is their village. The ceilings, roofs, and walls are smeared with cow dung, which dries as hard as brick (and doesn’t smell much once it has dried).

The Maasai surround their village with a fence made of thorns to keep predators away from their people and cattle.

You may be surprised to learn that except for buffalo, eland, and an occasional lion, the Maasai rarely kill animals.

The dietary staple consists of fresh and curdled cattle milk which they carry in large decorated gourds. The milk is mixed with blood tapped from the jugular vein of a steer.

To this frappé is added a small amount of cattle urine which helps to ferment the cocktail and turn it into a stimulant.

The Maasai believe that the earth is God, that God gave them exclusive rights to all cattle, and that all cattle are sacred. It is the Maasai’s right, therefore, to “repossess” their sacred cattle from all other people who, the Maasai believe, are just caring for the cattle until the Maasai have the time to come and collect them. As you can imagine, this belief has led to some strained (i.e. bloody) relations between the Maasai and other African tribes. (This also helps to explain why they need the warriors.) The Maasai have lived for thousands of years without money, but cattle is the closest thing to it. Cattle and other animals are also used by Maasai men to buy wives. The following is an excerpt from With a Prehistoric People describing the warriors’ return after “recapturing” cattle: “The captured cattle gradually come into view, with here and there a guard tending them. Then the warriors appear in a compact body of regular formation,

30

YOUR I TINER ARY

7:00 p.m.

Poolside Reception and Barbecue Dinner Get together this evening at the swimming pool for a private cocktail reception followed at 7:30 by a barbecue dinner. The evening may be cool, so you may want to bring a light jacket. Although mosquitoes are usually not a problem, you should apply insect repellent before coming to dinner.

Early tomorrow morning you will check-out out of the lodge and fly north to Samburu for two nights. Please check at the Compass Club Hospitality Desk for any updates in the flight schedule. If you have signed telephone calls or beverages to your room account, we suggest you settle the bill this evening.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

31

July 30

Because of the Maasai’s belief that earth is God, it is therefore below their dignity to dig into the ground to produce food or uncover water. The Maasai do not violate this tradition even to bury their dead, which instead are simply placed outside of the village for the animals to dispose of.

Today the majority of Maasai live very much as they have for centuries. The Kenyan government is trying to educate the people and some are leaving the villages to attend school. Many are now aware of modern technology. In fact a colleague of ours was making arrangements with the local chief for our upcoming visit. In the middle of the conversation our colleague heard a mobile phone ring.

You guessed it, the chief pulled the mobile phone out from under his red robes and answered it. At the end of the conversation our colleague asked what the conversation was about. The chief reported that it was his herdsman calling in to tell him a calf had been born.

Itinerary

moving very slowly with measured tread. Lean, gaunt, tall, and taciturn, they move at the walk or the run, with the long, easy, tireless stride of the bird of their own plains – the ostrich. Distance they hardly seem to consider. To cover it seems to cost them no effort. The rhythm of the song is marked by slightly throwing the spear vertically up into the air, making it spin and catching it again. As the spears are bright as silver, and the blades four feet long, they throw back the sun’s rays like so many revolving mirrors.”

Wednesday, July 31 MAASAI MARA/SAMBURU 5:45 - 6:15 a.m.

Breakfast A full breakfast is served in the lodge’s dining room.

6:30 a.m.

Depart for the Airfield By this time, you should be at the front door with your packed CA Safari bag ready to leave the lodge. At the airfield you will say good-bye to your local safari guides.

(Note: CA is taking care of gratuities for all of the guides.

If, however, you have been happy with their services and wish to leave your driver an additional gratuity, you may do so; but it is neither necessary nor expected.)

7:00 a.m.

Flight to Samburu Your flight departs for Samburu National Reserve. The 75 minute flight to Kenya’s Northern Frontier Province will take you over the Rift Valley, the “Birthplace of Mankind”.

In fact, the Rift Valley, isn’t a valley, but an enormous fault in the earth’s crust that begins in north Africa in the Jordan Valley, cuts through the Red Sea, then runs almost the entire length of the African continent through Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique and reaches the Indian Ocean near the delta of the Zambesi River. In total, the fault stretches 5,400 miles (8,700 km), or almost one quarter of the circumference of the earth. Californians, by comparison, the San Andreas fault is 600 miles long (995 km). Please refer to the “Kenya” section of this booklet for more information regarding the anthropological finds uncovered in the Rift Valley.

As you fly north, you will begin to notice a dramatic change in scenery between the rolling savannah of the Mara and the rugged rocky landscape of Samburu.

8:15 a.m.

Arrive Samburu After landing at the Samburu Airfield, you and your luggage will board the safari cruisers which will take you on a game drive, after which your guides will bring you to the Samburu Intrepids tented camp in time for lunch.

Nowhere else on the continent can you have a more exciting safari experience than staying in a tent at Samburu Intrepids.

32

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

Samburu National Reserve 0

Samburu Intrepids

N

2.5

5 km

July 31

O

Koitogar

UAS

Y

IR

O

SAMBURU NATIONAL RESERVE

Samburu Serena Lodge

RIV

ER

Nairobi 350 km

33

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

N

Located deep inside Samburu National Reserve, Samburu Intrepids Camp is built on a bluff overlooking the Uaso Nyiro (pronounced in English “Wah-so Ni-ee-ro”) River. The beautiful grounds are well-maintained and offer a wide variety of local flora and perhaps the best game viewing in Samburu. The camp’s facilities include a cocktail lounge, dining room, and swimming pool. Plus there’s even a laundry and valet service. (This is roughing it?) Each of the 27 deluxe tents is fashioned after the classic style of the grand African safaris and features four-poster twin beds, complete bathroom with hot & cold running water, and electrical outlets. Each tent is within a short walk of the river where a wide variety of animals come to drink.

The camp was built near the land inhabited by Arthur Newmann, one of old Africa’s original “big game” elephant hunters. As you are sitting around the fire at night, think for a moment what life must have been like at the turn of the century in this remote part of the world. The excellent facilities are complemented by an exceptional staff who pride themselves in their hospitality and professional service.

12:30 - 2:00 p.m.

Lunch is served in the dining room.

Lunch

3:00 p.m.

Samburu Naturalist Briefing We have invited a Samburu naturalist to meet the group this afternoon to discuss life here in northern Kenya.

4:00 p.m.

Afternoon Game Drive Your guides will meet you at the front door for your afternoon game drive through the Samburu National Reserve. The most northern and most remote of Kenya’s major game reserves, Samburu is a vast region of dormant volcanoes, scrub vegetation, and jagged mountains.

Interspersed within this rugged terrain are lush oases of green vegetation and scenic canyons bisected by cool rivers.

This is a mysterious land of awesome beauty inhabited by the nomadic Samburu, neither of which has changed much over the centuries. The dramatic contrast between the rocky landscape of Samburu and the lush green of the Maasai Mara couldn’t be more striking. Believe us, when you return home and begin to show your pictures, there will be no doubt where you shot which photo.

34

YOUR I TINER ARY

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

35

July 31

7:30 - 9:30 p.m.

Dinner at the Camp Dinner is served in the camp’s dining room. After dinner, we suggest you visit the lounge. It is one of Kenya’s best.

Don’t be surprised if you have a little trouble sleeping tonight; Kenya at night is not a quiet place. Tonight you will be treated to an African serenade of various grunts, groans, eeks, cheeps, whrills and shrills brought to you by the thousands of nocturnal reptiles, birds and mammals that inhabit the game reserve. Occasionally you may hear the guards walk past your tent. You can rest easy knowing that they patrol the grounds throughout the night.

Itinerary

The reserve sits at an altitude between 800 and 1,230 meters (2,600 and 4,000 ft). The life’s blood of the reserve is the Uaso Nyiro River. Without this permanent river, Samburu is barren; with it, animal life thrives. You have heard of the “Big Five” (elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, and leopard). In Samburu you have the “Unique Five”: the Reticulated Giraffe, the long-necked Gerenuk Antelope, Somali Ostrich, Grevy’s Zebra, and the majestic Beisa Oryx. Samburu is the only area of the world where these animals can be viewed. In addition, you will find lion, cheetah, leopard, elephant, buffalo, hyena, and if you are lucky, you may spot a black rhino. Use caution when walking near the river, because the crocodiles are everywhere. The bird life in Samburu is a spectacle. You can easily spot 100 species in a single day. Of particular note is the Martial Eagle, the giant of the predator birds, and the tiny Pygmy Falcon, the littlest falcon on earth, which stands about 6 inches tall (15 cm).

Thursday, August 1 SAMBURU This afternoon you will have the opportunity to visit a Samburu village. To tell you the truth, your Compass Club planning committee was not sure if we should offer you the village visit. Why not? The experience is not for everyone. Some people find the village depressing. Others tell us it was the highlight of their trip to Africa. The best we can do is give you the facts and let you decide. The village is authentic. You will see how the people live and have lived for centuries. You will see a bunch of children, most of whom look healthy, but a few of them may be sick. The place won’t smell very good and the sanitation is poor by our standards.

The village is not the setting for a National Geographic special, and you will not be the first people to visit. The villagers have learned about money, and like us, they want it.

They also know that you have it, and some of them will try to sell you things to get it. So far, it sounds like they adhere to the same fundamental capitalistic principles that qualified all of us for Compass Club. Unlike us, they don’t have software to sell, so they sell handicrafts and, like professional models everywhere, they expect a “little something” for posing for photographs. So you see, despite some minor cultural differences, such as the Samburu custom of drinking a mixture of cow’s blood, milk, and urine, we are all pretty much the same. You will find that the Samburu are cordial, friendly and have a sense of humor.

Plus the kids are adorable. The best advice we can give you is to relax and enjoy the scene. You will be in the village for about 30 minutes. You may stay longer if you wish.

6:30 a.m.

Game Drive Meet at the front door for your early morning game drive.

7:00 - 9:30 a.m.

A full breakfast is served in the dining room.

Breakfast

10:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m.

Mid-Morning Game Drive Join your guide for a mid-morning game drive. In the course of your drives you will have seen members of the

36

YOUR I TINER ARY

12:30 - 2:00 p.m.

Lunch is served in the dining room.

Itinerary

pastoral Samburu tribe. You will no doubt notice the similarity between their dress and that of the Maasai. The reason is that the Samburu and Maasai are cousins. They share the same ancestry and the same Maa language.

Sometime during the 17th century, the people who would become the Samburu and Maasai migrated south from the area around Lake Turkana in the north of Kenya. Some settled to the east and north of Mt. Kenya and they became the Samburu. Those who continued south became the Maasai. The Samburu, like the Maasai, are cattle owning pastoralists who live pretty much as they have for centuries. Like the Maasai, their dietary staple is milk mixed with cows blood. They slaughter goats for meat in the dry season. They also make soup from roots and bark.

Breaking with traditions centuries old, some have begun farming; maize (corn) is the main crop. The Samburu follow many of the same tribal mores as the Maasai and share a similar philosophy of life and social structure, including the rites of passage from childhood to adult, courtship, marriage, and family hierarchy.

Lunch

2:30 p.m.

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

37

August 1

SamburuVillage/ Game Drive/Sundowners Leave for the Samburu Village visit and game drive.

After the visit you will continue on with your afternoon game drive and return to the camp at about 6:30 p.m. If you choose not to visit the village, you may remain at the camp until your afternoon game drive and catch up with your colleagues later.

As if the Samburu Village, wildlife, and scenery were not enough, today you will have a chance to participate in one of the truly great Kenyan traditions: a “Sundowner” cocktail reception. We’ve arranged for cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks to be set up high in the hills overlooking the Samburu Reserve. Enjoy your “Sundowners” while witnessing the breathtaking sunset. English writer E.A.T. Dutton described the scene: “And, at the end of the day, when the sun drops...the sky becomes a miracle of colour...When it is all over, I have felt as though I have listened to the beautiful voice of a fine singer. Then

everything for one moment is still...For some reason, sunset in Africa always brings a momentary silence, a pause – silence...And then there is a happy chorus from frogs, and grasshoppers and night birds and the hyrax, and the many prowlers of the night.”

4:00 p.m.

Game Drive and Sundowners If you elected not to visit the Samburu Village, now is the time to meet your guide for the afternoon game drive followed by our Sundowner Cocktail Reception.

7:30 - 9:30 p.m.

Dinner Dinner is served in the camp’s dining room.

Tomorrow you return to Nairobi for your Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner. You are scheduled to leave the camp after breakfast tomorrow, so if you have an incidental bill, you may want to pay it this evening.

38

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

Friday, August 2 SAMBURU/NAIROBI This morning you will return to Nairobi for the annual Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner.

6:30 - 8:00 a.m.

Game Drive Meet at the front door for your early morning game drive.

7:00 - 9:00 a.m.

A full breakfast is served in the dining room.

9:15 a.m.

Breakfast

Depart for the Airfield

We ask that you please bring your CA Safari bag to the front door of the lodge before you board your safari cruiser. Driving time to the airfield is about 30 minutes.

Once on board, sit back, relax and enjoy the 50 minute trip from the northern to the southern hemisphere. If the weather cooperates, about 20 minutes after take-off, on the left side of the aircraft you should be able to see Mt. Kenya. At 17,100 feet (5,200 m), it is the tallest mountain in Kenya and the second tallest in Africa. Mt. Kenya is considered a sacred place. The three peaks are named for the three men from whom all Maasai are descended – Nelion, Batian and Lenana. British writer E.A.T. Dutton visited Mt. Kenya in 1930 and described the experience: “Their beauty holds you breathless, the great silence, the subtle stillness that broods over all, the dazzling serenity, sets you gasping. The peaks struck us then as something incomparably beautiful, something dazzling, yet unmoved and invincible, just waiting for us to come and go, and leave them again to their unending solitude.”

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

39

August 2

By this time in your adventure, you will have crossed the equator. Next you will begin to see the fertile farmland and the region of Kenya where most of her great long distance runners live. Before arriving in Nairobi you’ll fly over the small towns inhabited mostly by members of the Kikuyu tribe. This area used to be the center of the Mau Mau rebellion, which eventually led to Kenyan independence.

11:00 a.m.

Arrive Nairobi At Wilson Airport in Nairobi you will be asked to identify your luggage, then board the transportation for the 30 minute ride to the Nairobi Serena. You should be back in the hotel by 12:00 p.m. If you have stored any luggage with the hotel, it will be delivered to your room. If you have stored your passport in the CA Security Box, please claim it at our Hospitality Desk.

12:00 - 2:00 p.m.

Lunch is served in the hotel ballroom.

Lunch

1:00 - 3:30 p.m.

The Maasai Market If you find that you still have not completed your souvenir shopping, or if you just want to take in a unique local spectacle, we invite you to attend the colorful Maasai Market. On Friday Maasai women from the surrounding areas travel to the outskirts of Nairobi to sell their handicrafts. You are able to get some great bargains on Maasai beaded jewelry, pottery, wood carvings, baskets, and carved gourds. As you would expect, the Maasai women accept cash only. To keep things as simple as possible, we suggest you make your purchases in Kenyan shillings. The Maasai market is about a 20 minute drive from the hotel.

Return transportation to the hotel will leave the market no later than 3:00 p.m.

Note: If you participated in our sightseeing trip last Sunday, you may recognize some of the Maasai at this market as the same people who were selling their handicrafts at the Karen Blixen House. Although some of the items will be similar, and the basic theme is the same, this Friday market is more of a spectacle. The event covers a couple of acres and you will find a greater variety of handicrafts for sale.

If you are returning to London or New York tomorrow on one of our private charter flights...

At 5:30 p.m. you will leave the hotel for our Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner. But before you do, a couple of very important matters require your attention.

The charter flights leave early tomorrow morning. The New York flight is scheduled to depart at 5:00 a.m. and the

40

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

London flight will depart at 6:00 a.m. To ensure a smooth hotel check-out and flight check-in, we ask that you pay close attention to the following: 3:00 - 5:00 p.m.

Hotel Check-Out You will remember when you left the hotel on July 29th, you did not pay your incidental bill. Well, now is the time.

The hotel has established a private CA check-out area in the ballroom. To avoid the crowd, we suggest you come to the ballroom to pay your bill before leaving for the Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner. If you do not check-out with the cashier before leaving for the Awards Evening, you may do so on your return tonight, but do not wait until tomorrow. Once your bill is paid, we suggest you pay cash for all additional purchases. (Note: In Kenya, as in many countries, the hotels are not allowed to charge items to your credit card without your signature on the credit card slip /voucher, therefore you must check-out in person.)

The New York and London Charter Flight Check-in...

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

41

August 2

We realize that the charter flights leave Nairobi early tomorrow morning. But we ask you to understand that the early morning departure enables about 95% of you to make connections to your home city from New York and London. A later departure would guarantee that most of you would have to spend the night in a connecting city.

The result would be that you would arrive home about 16 hours later than you will.

Now, we know that no one wants to leave for the airport any earlier than necessary. We have asked the charter airlines and the Kenyan Aviation Authority to grant us a speedy check-in, but we do have to abide by their security regulations. The good news is that the airlines are allowing us to perform virtually all of the charter airline check-in services at the hotel (except for the personal security screening). Therefore, today sometime between 3:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. please bring to the Compass Club Hospitality Desk all of the luggage you wish to check with the airline. At that time you will receive the airline luggage tags and your charter flight boarding passes. This means that when you arrive at the airport tomorrow morning all

you have to do is proceed directly to Kenya Passport Control where you will be required to present your passport. You may then go to your departure gate, pass through security screening, and board the aircraft. We realize that bringing your luggage to the Hospitality Desk is a bit of a pain, but please understand that this process will save you hours at the airport. We suggest you use your CA Safari bag as carry-on luggage and pack in it the clothing you wear this evening and your personal items.

If you are departing Nairobi on a regularly scheduled flight...

When you return to Nairobi today you will receive a letter from our Travel Staff indicating hotel check-out procedure, the time you should have your luggage packed, and the time you will leave for the airport on August 3rd. Most of you will have an evening flight. We have arranged for you to keep your hotel room until it is time to depart for the airport. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the hotel are compliments of CA. In addition, our Travel Staff will be at the Hospitality Desk during the day to answer any questions you may have.

3:00 - 5:00 p.m.

Snacks in the ballroom Last year in Rio de Janeiro local circumstances dictated that we hold our awards ceremony before dinner. This plan proved so popular with Compass Club members that we are repeating the program this year. Because you will be sitting for a couple of hours before dinner is served, CA is sponsoring a light buffet before you leave for the evening.

5:30 - 11:00 p.m.

Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner Depart from the front door of the hotel for our annual Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner. As a courtesy to all Compass Club members we ask that you please be prompt. In consideration of the fact that many of you have already checked your luggage with the charter airlines, dress for the evening is casual. Safari attire is welcomed. Ladies, the Awards Presentation will take place on the grass, so wear flat shoes. The location of our awards event is Nairobi’s famous Carnivore Restaurant, which has been named one of the “50 Best Restaurants in the

42

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

World”. While we can’t say for sure that the Carnivore is one of the “50 Best”, we can all agree it is one of the “50 Strangest”. The theme of the Carnivore is a traditional Brazilian barbecue restaurant. For those of you unfamiliar with this concept... A waiter brings you cuts of meat on a skewer. He will then place the tip of his skewer on your plate and begin to carve. In fact, he will stand there and carve until you tell him to stop. What makes the Carnivore so special is that many of the cuts of meat the waiter brings you are the same animals you saw on safari. Now of course these aren’t the same exact animals, but they are distant cousins. The Carnivore menu differs somewhat every day, but you can expect: zebra, wildebeest, ostrich, gazelle and crocodile, plus an array of more familiar selections, such as: chicken, beef, pork and lamb. “Vegivores” (that’s what they call vegetarians here), don’t despair.

There’s a special menu for you at the Carnivore too. Just ask your waiter.

The drive to the Carnivore will take about 30 minutes.

Once you have arrived you will be directed to a special tent (marquee) that has been erected on the restaurant grounds. Our awards presentation will take place inside the tent and you will be assigned to a specific seating area. At the conclusion of the presentations you will be directed to the Carnivore for dinner. There is no assigned seating inside the restaurant, so you may sit with whomever you like. Later the Carnivore becomes our own private Compass Club Nightclub complete with dance band, disco, and some special local entertainment.

9:00 - 11:00 p.m.

Transportation will return to the hotels.

August 2

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

43

Saturday, August 3 DEPART NAIROBI AND RETURN HOME

If you are returning on either the London or New York charter flight...

From 2:45 a.m.

A continental breakfast will be served in the ballroom.

New York Charter...

3:15 a.m.

Transportation departs the hotel for the airport.

5:00 a.m.

Your Northwest 747 flight #9989 is scheduled to depart Nairobi.

11:30 a.m.

Arrive Rome to refuel.

4:00 p.m.

Arrive New York’s JFK Airport at Northwest Terminal #4. Upon arrival in New York all passengers must clear U.S. Immigration and Customs.

If you have a connecting flight in New York...

Remember, your luggage is checked to JFK only. After claiming your luggage and clearing customs, you must take your luggage with you and check it with your connecting airline. Once you have exited the customs building look for the CA signs. Our Travel Staff will direct you to our private CA chartered coaches waiting to take you to your connecting airline. We will also have coaches for those of you who are connecting through LaGuardia or Newark.

London Gatwick Charter...

4:15 a.m.

Transportation departs the hotel for the airport.

6:00 a.m.

Your European Aviation flight #4035 is scheduled to depart Nairobi.

44

YOUR I TINER ARY

Itinerary

12:45 p.m.

Arrive at London’s Gatwick Airport South Terminal.

Upon arrival in London all passengers, regardless of their destination, will need to pass through British Immigration and Customs.

If you have a connecting flight in London...

If you are connecting to another flight, you must take your luggage with you and check it with your connecting airline. After claiming your luggage and clearing customs, please exit the hall and look for the CA signs. Our Travel Staff will direct you to the “Satellite Train” for the 5 minute ride to the North Terminal and your departing flight.

Heathrow Passengers...

We will have a coach to take you to your connecting airline. After you exit the customs hall, look for the CA signs.

Our Travel Staff will direct you.

Yes, this is a busy day, but on your flight home take some time to remember Kenya... the scenery, the animals, the lodges and camps, the remarkable Kenyans, and the camaraderie of this great CA family. We’d like to leave you with one last quotation from Karen Blixen: “There is something about Kenya life that makes you forget all your sorrows and you feel the whole time as if you had drunk half a bottle of champagne, — bubbling over with heartfelt gratitude for being alive...One only feels really free when one can go in whatever direction one pleases...”

Thanks for making Compass Club the great event it is. Remember, without your efforts there is no such thing as Compass Club. We hope to see you next year.

August 3

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

45

Your Compass Club Safari Includes...

• Round trip airfare between your home city, Nairobi, and the game parks • Hotel accommodations in Nairobi as described in the itinerary • Lodge and/or tented camp in two of Kenya’s wildlife parks • All breakfasts during your stay in Kenya, including the “Safari” breakfast • All lunches as described in the itinerary including non-alcoholic beverages • Welcome Reception and Dinner in Nairobi on July 28th.

• All dinners as described including non-alcoholic beverages, beer, and selected wine (plus, if you arrive on July 27th, dinner at leisure in your Nairobi hotel.)

• The Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner • Sightseeing of Nairobi, the Giraffe Manor, and Karen Blixen House • Game drives (safaris) as described • “Sundowner” Cocktail Reception • Visit to a native village • Transportation between the Nairobi Airport and your hotel • All tips to local guides and hotel staff during your stay for the features listed above • Services of the Compass Club Hospitality Desk and Travel Staff in your hotel, lodge and/or tented camp.

Not Included: Alcoholic beverages with lunch, beverages other than as described in the itinerary; and items of a personal nature, such as: telephone calls, laundry, room service, and porterage of luggage other than on arrival day.

Compass Club Members arriving in Nairobi on July 26: A light buffet supper is included on the evening of July 26th, as is breakfast and lunch on July 27th.

46

YOUR I TINER ARY

Safari Notes

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

47

Safari Notes

48

YOUR I TINER ARY

Travel Info P 50

Travel Info

About Kenya P 76

About Kenya

On Safari P 94

On Safari

Big Five 102 The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

P

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

Travel Info Airline Tickets and Flight Itineraries Enclosed with this booklet you should find your international airline tickets and/or charter flight confirmation.

Many of you will be boarding our privately chartered flights to Nairobi at either JFK Airport in New York, or Gatwick Airport in London. Some of you will be flying on scheduled commercial airlines from your home city to Nairobi. If you have not received your tickets and/or charter flight confirmations, or if you have any questions regarding your itinerary, now is the time to call the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia at (800) 343-8781; from outside the U.S. call (636) 827-4748. (When you hear the recorded message, follow the prompts and press “option 3” for the Incentive Travel Desk.) Please check your tickets carefully, take special note of your departure times and plan to arrive at the airport at least two hours before your flight.

Important: The name on your airline ticket must be exactly the same as the name on your passport. If you have been married or changed your name since the issuance of your last passport, please inform one of our CA Travel Specialists.

CA Charter Flight Check-in Procedure For a complete description of the CA Charter Flight check-in procedure at Kennedy, Gatwick, and Nairobi Airports, please refer to the July 26th, 27th, and August 2nd descriptions in the “Day-By-Day” section of this book.

The arrival and departure times of the charter flights and the check-in procedures described in this book were correct at the time of printing. However, these times may be subject to change. So, if there is a discrepancy between the time stated in this booklet and the time printed on the enclosed charter confirmation, you should conclude that the information on the charter ticket is correct.

IMPORTANT UNITED STATES IMMIGRATION INFORMATION: If you are traveling from a foreign country to the United States to board our charter flight and you 50 TRAVEL I NFO

IMPORTANT UNITED KINGDOM IMMIGRATION INFORMATION: If you are traveling from a foreign country to London to board our charter flight and you are a citizen of a country that requires a visa to enter the U.K., you must have a multiple entry visa. Note that citizens of some countries which normally require visas to enter the U.K. are allowed a grace period without a visa, provided that you have proof that you are connecting to a flight departing the U.K. within 24 hours. All of you should qualify for this exemption. However, we have Compass Club qualifiers from 42 countries coming to Kenya. Although we try to keep current with immigration requirements, it will come as no surprise to anyone who travels regularly that the rules have been changing rapidly. If in doubt about your status, please check to make sure you qualify for this exemption.

If you have a long layover between flights...

Because of the airlines’ schedules, a few of you may have a layover of 6 or more hours between flights. If so, CA will arrange for a hotel room in your connecting city. If this is your situation, you will find with your airline tickets a letter explaining the procedure to follow when you arrive in your connecting city and in which hotel your room has been reserved.

In case of flight delays en route...

If you are delayed and miss your connecting flight, please call one of the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia at (800) 343-8781; from outside the US call (636) 827-4748.

(When you hear the recorded message, follow the prompts and press “option 3” for the Incentive Travel Desk.) Our agents will book you on the next available flight and inform our Travel Staff in Nairobi of your new arrival time.

51 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

are a citizen of a country that requires a visa to enter the U.S., make sure you apply for a multiple entry visa. The reason is that you will be entering the U.S. twice; once today and once again on August 3rd. So far as we can determine there are no exceptions to this rule. If you are uncertain whether you need a visa, please check with your local CA office, or call the CA Travel Specialists in Islandia.

Passports and Visas By this time, you should be well along in the process of obtaining your passports and visas, but if you have recently qualified for Club, please note that all visitors to Kenya are required to carry a valid passport and visa. (Citizens of Turkey and Uruguay will need a passport, but no visa is required.) Although we strongly suggest you obtain the Kenya visa before leaving home, if for some reason you were not able to do so, you may purchase a visa when you arrive in Nairobi. Visas are sold in an office to the left of the immigration counter. Look for the “Kenya Visas” sign on the door. It will be necessary to complete a form and pay a visa fee of US$50 or the equivalent in a "hard" currency such as one of the European Community currencies.

As you would expect, this process will take quite a while.

Climate August in Kenya is a cool and dry month. Even though we will be within a couple of hundred kilometers of the equator, much of Kenya lies on a high plateau, which means you can expect temperatures to be cool in the early mornings and evenings and warm throughout the day. Nairobi is south of the equator by only about 100 km., but the city sits at 5,500 feet (1800 m.) above sea level, which ensures daytime temperatures will range from 55 to 76˚ F (13-25˚C).

The Maasai Mara varies in altitude from 4,800 ft. to 5,300 ft. (1600-1750 m.). At night and during early morning game drives in the Mara it can be cold, 45-50˚F (810˚C). By late morning in the savannah, the temperature

52 TRAVEL I NFO

On the Kenya coast you can expect hot days, 85-90˚F (29-32˚C), and warm balmy evenings.

Although this is Kenya’s dry season, a heavy shower can occur at any time, particularly on the coast. So on your packing list should be a light water-resistant jacket.

While the Kenya sun feels great, don’t forget that you will be within a couple of hundred kilometers of the equator. The rays of the sun will be as direct as they can be anywhere on earth, so you will need to bring sunscreen and use it frequently.

Luggage Allowance If you are on Safari...

Although you may bring to Kenya a suitcase of standard size and weight, it is important to keep in mind that we will be traveling to Kenya’s national parks on small commercial aircraft and safari cruisers, so there are serious weight and space limitations. Therefore, on safari everyone will be limited to 30 lb (14 kg) of luggage, including your hand luggage. In addition, all luggage must be soft-sided duffel-type bags. By now you should have received two CA Safari duffel bags. You will be able to fit everything you need for safari into these bags. Any remaining luggage may be stored at your hotel in Nairobi where you can pick it up when you return to the hotel on August 2nd.

If you have chosen the Diani Beach option...

Your luggage weight restriction to Diani is 20 kilos or 44 lb, which is the same as the weight restrictions on most international flights. Any remaining luggage may be stored at your hotel in Nairobi where you can pick it up when you return to the hotel on August 2nd. Hint: If you are returning home on one of the CA charter flights, please consider 53 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

will reach a high of about 85˚ F (29˚ C), then cool off again in the late afternoon. In other wildlife parks such as: Samburu, Amboseli, and Tsavo you will find it hot during mid-day when temperatures can reach about 90˚F (32˚C).

Humidity should not exceed a comfortable 50% and rainfall for the month averages less than 1 inch (2.5 cm). On Mt. Kenya it will be comfortable during the day, about 78˚F (26˚F), but at night and in the early morning it can be cold and damp, 50˚F (10˚C).

the following: You should have received a couple of CA Safari bags. Although you will not need them in Diani, please be aware that the charter flights to London and New York will depart very early on the morning of August 3rd. To expedite the airport check-in, we will need to collect the luggage you wish to check with the airline on the afternoon of August 2nd. Therefore we suggest that you bring along at least one of the CA Safari bags and use it to pack the clothes you wear on the night of August 2nd. For a full explanation of the procedure, please refer to August 2 in the “Day-by-Day Itinerary” section of this booklet.

International Airlines Luggage Allowance International airlines permit passengers to check two bags, total weight not to exceed 20 kilos (44 lb) per person.

The sum of the dimensions (length + height + width) of the larger bag may not exceed 62 inches (155 cm). The sum of the dimensions of both bags may not exceed 102 inches (260 cm) – a large pullman type suitcase plus medium size case are within your allowance. In addition to checked luggage each passenger is allowed one carry-on piece of luggage. Dimensions of the carry-on bag may not exceed 45 inches (114 cm). Carry-on luggage restrictions are usually strictly enforced on international flights. North American guests, because the flight to Kenya is international, you will not be able to check your luggage at the curb. You must check all luggage at the ticket counter.

CA Luggage Tags Along with your airline tickets and travel itinerary are two Compass Club luggage tags. These tags should be imprinted with your safari animal, which is the same animal you have printed on your tee shirts and on the front of this booklet. Please print your name and address clearly on the tags and attach one to each of your suitcases. This will greatly assist in the identification of your luggage at the airport and hotels.

54 TRAVEL I NFO

Packing Suggestions On Safari...

• a couple of pair of lightweight slacks, or a pair of shorts, a pair of slacks and a pair of jeans • three or four lightweight shirts • a lightweight jacket, sweater (jumper) or sweatshirt • comfortable walking shoes (safari type boots are not necessary) • a swimsuit • hat • sunglasses • camera and plenty of film (see photography) • binoculars • sunscreen • small flashlight (torch) A couple of hints regarding dress: Many first-time travelers to Kenya think they need to wear heavy hiking boots like you see in the Tarzan movies. Keep in mind that you will be in a vehicle most of the time you are viewing the animals and not trudging through the underbrush or fording raging streams. Most of you will be more comfortable in running type shoes. Although it is perfectly acceptable to wear shorts on safari, we suggest that shorts not be worn in Nairobi, especially by the ladies. Swimsuits should be worn at the pool and beach only and not in any of the other public areas of the hotel or in town. Topless bathing is frowned upon in Nairobi and against the law on the Indian Ocean coast. Bring only the most essential jewelry with you to Kenya. There is little opportunity to wear it during the trip, and can easily become detached while traveling around the wildlife parks. You will find hair dryers in the bathrooms of your Nairobi hotel, but not on safari.

Nairobi hotels offer excellent same-day laundry service, but the facilities in the lodges and camps are limited. You may want to bring along a small container of detergent.

55 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

Casual comfortable lightweight summer clothing is appropriate during the day and nighttime in the hotels, lodges and while sightseeing. On your packing list should be:

At Diani Beach...

Those choosing the Diani Beach option should pack lightweight casual resort wear.

Shorts, tee shirts, swimsuits, and sandals are fine for the daytime. In the evenings the hotel maintains a dress code known as “smart casual”, which means that men are not required to wear sport/dinner jackets, but they are expected to dress in slacks/trousers and shirts with collars. Men, no shorts, jeans, or tee shirts in the evening. Ladies are asked to observe the same standard.

Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner...

The location of our Compass Club awards evening is Nairobi’s famous Carnivore Restaurant. In keeping with the restaurant’s relaxed atmosphere, dress for tonight is casual, but no jeans or tee shirts, please. Safari attire is welcomed.

The evenings in Nairobi are cool, so you should bring a light jacket or sweater (jumper). Ladies, the Awards Presentation will take place on the grass, so wear flat shoes. Men, sport coats (suit jackets) are not necessary.

Electricity The electrical service in Kenya is 240 volts 50 cycles.

Outlets use the English three rectangular prong system.

North American guests, if you intend to bring appliances which operate on 110 volts, you will need to bring an electrical converter which will reduce the current from 220 to 110 volts and an adapter plug which adapts the U.S. plug to the English three prong style. Again, you will need both an electrical converter and adapter. Converters and adapters are sold at most luggage, hardware and electrical appliance stores. If purchasing a converter note that one type will accommodate hair dryers, travel irons, clothes steamers and curling irons, but you will need another type for use with computers, tape players, contact lens sterilizers and calculators. These gadgets are not interchangeable. If you wish to purchase a converter, we strongly suggest you do so before leaving home.

56 TRAVEL I NFO

Duty Free Allowance

Delayed Luggage One of the unfortunate facts of travel life is that every once in a great while a few pieces of luggage are misplaced by the airlines. We have all lived through it and understand how disconcerting it can be especially when traveling long distances. To increase your chance of success, please attach a CA luggage tag to each of the suitcases you check with the airline. In addition, plan to arrive at your home airport early. And finally, make sure that the airline attendant checks your luggage correctly. The airline code for Nairobi is NBO. Should you not see your luggage at the baggage claim area in Nairobi, please locate your airline representative. You should complete a lost luggage report before you leave the area. Also, please report the loss to the member of the Compass Club Travel Staff who greets you at the airport. One further bit of real life – because of the limited number of flights to Nairobi, delayed luggage usually does not catch up with its owner for at least 24 hours. With this in mind we suggest that you pack your CA Safari bag with all your necessities and carry it on the aircraft.

Time Zone Kenya is in the GMT + 3 time zone. During August, Daylight Savings Time is in effect in Europe and the U.S. Kenya does not observe Daylight Savings Time, so when it’s 12 noon in Kenya, it’s...

10:00 a.m. in Great Britain (-2) 11:00 a.m. in Western Europe (-1) 5:00 a.m. in Islandia (-7) 4:00 a.m. in Chicago (-8) 57 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

Duty Free shopping is available at your international gateway city airport and on your international flight.

Visitors are permitted to bring with them into Kenya 1 liter (quart) of liquor and one carton of cigarettes or 50 cigars, and one bottle of perfume. Note that the definition of "Duty Free" means that the item purchased was free of duty in the country in which the item was purchased. Duty Free items are still subject to customs on your return home.

3:00 a.m. in Denver (-9) 2:00 a.m. in Los Angeles (-10) 4:00 p.m. in Singapore (+4) 7:00 p.m. in Tokyo (+7) 8:00 p.m. in Sydney (+8) When in Kenya, we strongly suggest you re-set your watch to local time. Because Kenya is on the equator there is approximately 12 hours of sunlight year-round. You will notice that sunrises and sunsets are very dramatic and happen quickly; both occur around 6:30 each day.

Jet Lag The dictionary defines jet lag as: "...a temporary disruption of the normal biological rhythms after long distance travel by airplane through several time zones". What it means quite simply is that it will take your body a couple of days to adjust to Kenya time. You can make the transition easier by following a few basic steps: 1) Wear comfortable loose fitting clothing on the flight. Long flights tend to make the body swell somewhat. 2) During the flight avoid the temptation to over-eat and over-drink. Having a light meal during the flight will make it easier for you to sleep. 3) The air in the cabin of an airplane is very dry, so drink fluids. 4) But, avoid heavy consumption of alcoholic beverages. Maybe just have a glass of wine with dinner. Not only does a hangover feel much worse several time zones away, but the alcohol will dehydrate you. 5) After boarding the plane, set your watch ahead and mentally adjust to Kenya time. 6) Recent research indicates that plenty of sunshine after arrival will help your body's internal clock reset itself.

So, on your first full day in Africa spend some time enjoying the outdoors.

Returning Home Return Flights The Compass Club Travel Specialists will take care of reconfirming your flights home with the airline. In Nairobi you will receive a letter explaining the details of your departure. If you have any questions or any special requests, check with the Compass Club Hospitality Desk Staff either while on safari or at your Nairobi hotel.

58 TRAVEL I NFO

Customs (for returning U.S. Citizens)

Please note that if you are taking expensive cameras or jewelry of foreign manufacture with you to Kenya, you must be able to prove that these items were in your possession before you left the U.S. Receipts of purchase, repair or cleaning are considered proof of prior possession. So, if you plan to bring such items with you and you do not have proof of prior possession, you should visit the U.S. Customs office at any international airport before leaving the United States and show the items to a customs inspector.

Health and Inoculations The Kenyan government does not require inoculations unless you are coming from an area where Yellow Fever, Typhoid or Cholera exist. However, the health authorities of most European and North American countries suggest that visitors be inoculated against Yellow Fever and Hepatitis A. Some doctors also suggest a single injection containing measles, tetanus and diphtheria vaccine.

Furthermore, health authorities suggest taking Malaria pills while you are in the country. Malaria does exist in Nairobi and in the wildlife parks, as well as in certain poorer areas along the coast. The fact is that there are two types of visitors to Kenya – those who come for vacation

59 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

On your return home you will clear U.S. Customs at your first port of entry into the United States. While clearing customs is no longer the hassle it once was, you can help to simplify the process by keeping a list of purchases and prices paid. This will help avoid any confusion or delay if the customs inspector asks you questions about any of your purchases. Returning visitors may bring back home $400.00 worth of goods duty free. Families may pool exemptions, so you and your spouse are allowed a total of $800. In addition, each person is allowed one quart (or liter) of alcoholic "spirits" and one carton of cigarettes. If you exceed your exemption you will be required to pay 10% duty on all purchases in excess of $400.00 up to $1,400.00. For amounts over $1,400.00 duty will vary depending on the type of purchase made. (The average duty is 12.5%.) Items purchased "Duty Free" are counted toward your allowance when returning to the U.S.

and those who come to work. Those visitors who come to work in Kenya are involved in industrial or humanitarian efforts. These folks may be exposed to a variety of diseases. Those of us who come to Kenya for vacation are at very little risk. But, it is better to be on the safe side. There is a relatively new Malaria preventative to the U.S. market called “Malarone”. We have found it superior to all of the other pills we have tried. It seems to have none of the side effects - nausea, dizziness, sore muscles, and fatigue associated with preventatives such as “Lariam”. Our best advice is to check with your own doctor or health clinic.

Without doubt the greatest health risk to the average visitor is over-exposure to the sun. Remember you are in a dry climate, on the equator and at high altitude, so drink plenty of water, bring a sunscreen and apply it frequently.

If you are required to take prescription medicine, you should bring enough to last the entire trip. Always pack medicine, passports and your valuables in your carry-on luggage. Never pack them in the suitcases you check with the airlines. To avoid any possible customs problems both at home and in Kenya, keep the medicine in the container you received at the pharmacy/chemist. If you wear glasses or contact lenses, bring along an extra pair.

Pharmacies/Chemists There are plenty of them in Nairobi, but you won't find one of them on safari. The best rule is to make a list of prescriptions you need to bring with you and check them off as you pack them in your carry-on bag. If you have forgotten an item and need to go to a Pharmacist/Chemist, you will find them knowledgeable and accommodating.

Often they can replace your prescription, or if the specific name brand is not available, they can suggest an alternative without the need of your seeing a doctor. Keep in mind however, if there is a medication you literally “can’t live without”, do not leave home for Nairobi without it.

Water We suggest you do not drink the tap water in any of your accommodations. Drink the bottled water only. The ice served in the hotels, lodges, and tented camps is made from purified water. Avoid using the ice in restaurants outside of your hotels, and never buy any food or drink from 60 TRAVEL I NFO

street vendors. The intensity of the sun combined with the low humidity and altitude means that you will lose moisture quickly, so remember to drink plenty of bottled water.

or whatever you call it, diarrhea happens – to travelers.

We assure you the food and sanitary conditions in the major hotels, lodges and camps are excellent. However, the change of time zone, altitude, diet and daily routine can upset the system. While you are getting your “shots”, we suggest you check with your doctor who may prescribe a remedy.

Insurance During Compass Club you are covered by your Computer Associates Health Insurance Plan. Kenya does not offer free medical care to citizens of other countries. If you require medical attention, expect to pay cash for the service. You may then submit the claim to the company when you return.

Flying Doctors In the unlikely event that a severe illness or accident should occur while on safari, we have contracted Kenya’s famous “Flying Doctors”. Regardless of the time of day, the doctors will fly to the lodge or camp and either treat the patient there or return with him/her to Nairobi. In extreme cases, the patient is flown out of Kenya for treatment.

AIDS Yes, AIDS does exist in Kenya and is widespread throughout Africa. But, we can tell you for sure that no one ever got AIDS from looking at an elephant.

Emergency Phone Numbers Enclosed with this booklet is a list of all your hotels and their phone numbers. We suggest you leave a copy at home. If there is an emergency at home and the family can’t get through to you at the hotel, lodge, or tented camp, they may call Express Travel of Kenya at 254-2822625 or 254-2-822348 (Remember, they must dial your country’s international access number first.) All your fami61 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

“Montezuma’s Revenge”, “Delhi Belly”, “The Tarzan Two-Step”...

ly has to do is give the Express Travel folks the animal name of your itinerary, and they will contact you at your lodge or tented camp. We have seen to it that there will be someone staffing the phones 24 hours a day while we are in Kenya. Another option is to phone the Nairobi Serena Hotel at 254-2-725111 and ask for the Compass Club Hospitality Staff. The hotel assistant manager will find a member of our Travel Staff who will then contact you.

Money Matters The unit of exchange in Kenya is the shilling, which is abbreviated “KShs”. The shilling is further divided into 100 cents. Notes are issued in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 shillings. Coins are minted in 1 and 5 shilling pieces. As of this writing there are approximately 75 Kenya shillings to the U.S. dollar. Or, KShs 1.00 equals about 1.3 cents. When shopping or in restaurants an approximate conversion to U.S. dollars can be made by taking the amount in shillings, dividing it by 7, and moving the decimal point one place to the left. So, KShs 800 equals approximately US$11.00. (The actual is US$10.66.)

The following are the approximate exchange rates in selected currencies: 1 Australian Dollar = KShs 40.0 1 British Pound = KShs 105.0 1 Canadian Dollar = KShs 48.0 1 Euro = KShs 66.50 1 South African Rand = KShs 7.0 1 Swiss Franc = KShs 48.0 100 Japanese Yen = KShs 59.0 The best legal rates of exchange are found at the banks, which are open from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Monday through Friday. Major hotels will also change your dollars into shillings. The exchange rate is usually 2-5% less than the banks, but the convenience makes up for the difference. Major shops and restaurants may accept dollars, but the exchange rate is usually slightly worse than at the banks. European and U.S. traveler’s checks are recognized everywhere and highly recommended. While in Nairobi you may be approached by people offering to exchange your “hard currency” for shillings at a better rate than you

62 TRAVEL I NFO

can find in the bank. It is against the law to deal with these people, so please don’t.

Credit Cards Major credit cards such as American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, JBC, and Diners Club are accepted in major shops and restaurants. Please do not assume that restaurants or small shops will accept credit cards.

ATM's Automatic Teller Machines do exist in Kenya, but your bank card probably will not work in them. Our rather obvious conclusion is that you should not rely on ATM's to replenish your supply of cash.

Incidental Expenses Hotels in Nairobi will establish an incidental account for you when you check-in. You may then charge to your room any personal expenses not covered by CA. Such expenses may include: laundry, telephone charges, beverages other than described in the itinerary, and room service. Because you will be staying in the same Nairobi hotel on your first night and your last night in Kenya, the hotels have given us the option of leaving the hotel on July 29th without paying your incidental bill. When you return to the hotel on August 2nd the bill will be waiting for you. The hotel accepts American Express, Diners Club, Eurocard, JBC, Visa and MasterCard. Personal checks are not accepted.

On Safari...

Safari lodges and camps will allow you to sign beverages to your room account. But because you stay is only two nights, you will probably be charging only a drink or two at these places. Because check-out at the lodges and tented camps can be slow, we suggest you “pay as you go” for any beverages or international telephone calls.

63 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

Hint: Try to spend all of your shillings before you get to the airport for your return flight. While there is a bank at the airport, the hours are not very regular and the shillings have no value outside of Kenya.

In Diani...

When you check-in the Leisure Lodge will establish an incidental account which allows you to charge to your room items of a personal nature not included in your Compass Club program.

Gratuities Gratuities are included for all planned activities during Compass Club, including tips for porters, bellmen, maids, restaurant staff, and guides. When on your own, it is customary to leave 10% for waiters and bartenders. Taxi drivers are tipped about 10% of the fare. Many of you will fall in love with your local guides. If you have found their services excellent and you would like to give them an additional gratuity, you are welcomed to do so.

Photography and Videography Photographers, if you have a 35mm camera that allows you to change lenses, we suggest using a 70-210 mm, or 70-300 mm zoom lens which gives you the versatility of taking both close-up and distance photos without the hassle of constantly having to change the lens. Bring along a polarized filter and lens hood if you have them. If you have a 35mm camera and are buying a lens for the trip, make sure you buy it soon enough so you can practice before the safari.

If you own one of the popular “fool-proof ” fixed lens cameras, don’t despair. Your cameras will be fine for panoramic photos and shots of you and your friends, but do not expect to get good close-up pictures with a fixed lens or even the 35-70mm zoom type. Many of these “point and shoot” type cameras are now equipped with quite long zoom lenses - 140 to 200 mm.

For best results keep in mind that telephoto lenses need to be kept very still. It is a good idea to steady your camera on the top of the safari cruiser, and do not attempt to take shots of the animals while the safari cruiser is moving. The driver will stop any time he is asked. Then wait for him to shut off the motor before taking the shot.

You will encounter all kinds of lighting, so purists will want to bring along both slow film – 64 ASA for slides and

64 TRAVEL I NFO

Videographers, you will need at least an 8x zoom lens on your camera to get the good close-up shots. If your camera is new, you should practice with it a bit before leaving home. Game drives are no time for fumbling with the instruction manual trying to figure out which button does

what and "how come this 'Happy Bar Mitzvah' sign keeps showing up on the screen”. For panoramic videos that won't make you and your family motion sick later, remember to pan the camera slowly.

As a rule, the best photos and videos are taken during the early morning and late afternoon when the light is “flat”. Two last bits of advice: First, you will be seeing lots of animals, so don’t take 36 photographs of the first zebra you see. Second, photographers can become so involved with their hobby that they miss much of the grandeur of the miraculous African plain. Put the cameras down every once in a while and savor the experience.

Please don't take photographs of the Kenyans without asking permission. Some religious groups are not permitted to be photographed. Others, such as the Maasai, are usually happy to pose for a photo, but expect to receive small payment for their efforts. To avoid any uncomfortable situations, please discuss the matter with your subject in advance.

65 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

100 ASA for prints – and fast film 800 ASA for low light photos. If you just want to purchase one speed of film, then the 200 or 400 ASA films are your best bets. Film is very available everywhere, but it is more expensive in Kenya than in most parts of the world, so bring a good supply with you. Remember to replace your old camera battery and bring a spare with you just in case.

Enjoying Kenya Compass Club Hospitality Desk Our Compass Club Hospitality Desk is our local “operations center” at each of your hotels, camps and lodges.

Come to our desk if you have a question or a problem of any kind. The Hospitality Desk will be located near the lobby of your hotel and safari accommodations. Although desk hours will vary slightly depending upon your itinerary, you can expect the desk to be open from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Specific hours are stated in the “Day-By-Day Itinerary” section of this booklet.

"When in Kenya..."

When in Kenya, you will probably find that a few customs, particularly those centering around food and drink, are different from your own. Knowing about them in advance will make your experience all the more comfortable: • Restaurants tend not to have "smoking" and "no smoking" sections. However, if sitting in a “no smoking” section of a restaurant is important to you, please tell the maitre d' when you arrive and they generally do their best to accommodate you.

• The habit of using five or six cubes of ice in a drink is pretty much a U.S. custom. When ordering cold beverages, expect to see one or two cubes. If you ask for more they will certainly give them to you.

• North Americans find that some of their dietary staples: club sandwiches, hamburgers and ketchup, for example, are not the same as at home. Such is life here in Kenya.

• Tea drinkers: Kenya is famous for its tea and they produce lots of it. Unfortunately, they drink all that they produce, so you won’t find it outside of Kenya.

Enjoy it while you can.

66 TRAVEL I NFO

• Iced tea is not the staple in Kenya that it is in many parts of North America. You will not find it in many restaurants.

• U.S. Compass Club members, please note that in most of the world coffee is usually served after lunch and dinner, not during the meal. If you ask for coffee with your lunch or dinner, expect your server to ask again if he or she heard you correctly.

• North American visitors will find the price of hard liquor and cordials very expensive – a Scotch or Bourbon can cost $12.00 - $15.00. If this is an issue, you may want to purchase a bottle in the duty free shop at your international gateway airport.

• The local beer named “Tusker” is considered the national drink of Kenya. It is inexpensive and very good. Or, at least you get acclimated to it quickly.

Kenyans tend to prefer their Tusker warm. Everyone else prefers their Tusker cold ('baridi'). Most establishments keep both a room temperature and cold supply of Tusker on hand. So, be sure to specify your preference when ordering. In his final novel entitled True at First Light (1953), Ernest Hemingway described his breakfast regimen while in Kenya: “...if there were any fruit I would have some and first I would have a bottle of Tusker beer... I nearly always drank beer before breakfast unless we were hunting lion. Beer before or at breakfast was a fine thing but it slowed you up, possibly a thousandth of a second. On the other hand it made things seem better sometimes... and it was very good for you if you had stayed up late and had gastric remorse.”

In Hemingway’s day there was only one beer, “Tusker”, but now you’ll find lots of different Tuskers: “Tusker

67 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

• Kenya is famous for its coffee. Europeans generally like the taste, while North Americans find it strong.

If the taste is too strong for you, just ask the waiter for some hot water.

Export” is a German style beer. “Tusker Premium” tastes like a Heineken (so say the Kenyans anyway...

We haven’t yet had this claim substantiated by the Danes.). “White Cap” is comparable to a US beer.

“Castle” tastes similar to an Eastern European beer.

And “Premium Light” is the closest thing to a US “light” beer.

• The Kenyans are a very courteous people. The hotel staff will usually greet you with a "Good Morning" or "Good Evening". It is common Kenyan practice to return the salutation before conducting any business.

• Last, but not least. Kenyans love their country as much as you do yours. While you will see plenty of poverty, please keep in mind that Kenya is one of the "developing" countries that is actually developing.

Remember, your guides understand English perfectly, so please try to keep from making disparaging comments about the country or the people in front of them.

Street Smarts In addition to the different customs above, there are several important “do’s and don’ts” that you should observe. The Insight Guide says that: “Kenya is among the more secure countries outside of Switzerland and among the healthiest on earth”. And your Compass Club planning committee has found Kenyans to be some of the kindest friendliest people on earth. But, let’s keep in mind that this is a developing country and the visitor should use reasonable care and common sense at all times: Don’t photograph anyone without asking their permission. Some people take offense, while others, such as the Maasai believe it is their right to charge you for the privilege. The going rate for such a photo opportunity is about US$5.00.

Don’t photograph any military personnel, military vehicles, airport facilities, or anything that might have military significance.

Don’t stray from your Nairobi hotel on foot after dark. While there is very little violent crime against 68 TRAVEL I NFO

visitors, it is very easy to become disoriented in the city and you could wander into an area and a situation that is not the best. If leaving the hotel, take a taxi.

Don’t change money with the “black market” money changers. It is illegal.

Don’t smoke anything that your mother wouldn’t approve of. It’s illegal here too. While we’re talking about things your mother wouldn’t want you to do...a recent survey of the prostitutes working on the Kenyan coast claims that the HIV rate among them is 94%.

Don’t buy any ivory, animal skins, rhino horns, elephant’s feet, or any other related animal type products. The sale of these products is prohibited.

Do use common sense when leaving the hotel. Avoid public displays of wealth including money, jewelry, and expensive watches.

Do remember to look right first when crossing the streets. Kenyans drive on the left; and they do so quickly.

Do leave your passport in your hotel or camp room when in Nairobi or on safari. Very few passports are stolen, but they can be lost easily. See the note below.

Do use the Swahili word for hello: “Jambo” when addressing hotel staff or your guide.

What can we do to help?

It is no surprise that Kenya is a “developing country”. It may be a surprise, however, for you to learn that Kenya, unlike many “developing countries”, is actually developing.

To make matters more difficult, in the last 10 years a couple of Kenya’s neighbors have made a mess of things. So now, not only must the Kenyans feed, house, care for, and employ their own people, but they have taken on the

69 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

Don’t give handouts to any of the street people. The Kenya government has made great strides in cleaning up the city and handouts from visitors just prolongs the problem.

responsibility of feeding, housing, and caring for thousands of refugees from bordering countries. We found that upon seeing and understanding the challenges faced by these very good and decent people of Kenya, many visitors ask how they can help. The obvious answer is that you can give money, but none of us can be sure what happens to the money. If you would like to make a simple yet positive contribution to the country, we have a couple of suggestions: Eyeglasses are a great luxury for most Kenyans who on average make less than US$1.00 per day. So we suggest you pack a couple pairs of old or out of style eyeglasses.

There is a very reputable group of optometrists who collect unwanted eyeglasses and distribute them to the poor.

(Don’t worry about remembering your eyeglass prescription, the doctors have a machine that figures it out.)

It is no secret that the key to breaking the poverty cycle is education. Although Kenya has a number of schools, they are chronically short of school supplies. So other very useful gifts include pencils (not pens), school notebooks, and children’s books written in English. Please don’t bring calculators or any other electronic gadgets, and whatever you do, don’t bring food. If you wish to donate these items, please bring them to the Compass Club Hospitality Desk in your Nairobi hotel. The staff will accept your school supplies and eyeglasses and get them into the right hands (and eyes).

A note regarding the safe keeping of your passports and international airline tickets...

The following information is directed to Compass Club members who have chosen the “Safari Option”. We understand that many of you feel the need to keep your passports with you at all times. However, we have found that most passports are lost when their owners move from place to place, which is exactly what most of you will be doing on safari. If you think you will need to change traveler’s checks while on safari, then you should bring your passports with you. However, if you intend to spend cash and use credit cards, then you should consider leaving your passports and airline tickets in your Nairobi hotel safe. If you wish to leave your passport in Nairobi, please visit the Hospitality Desk where you will find a supply of envelopes

70 TRAVEL I NFO

in which you can place your documents. You may then give your passports and airline tickets to a designated member of the travel staff who will see that your documents are locked securely in the hotel safe until your return.

Regardless of your decision, we strongly suggest you make a photocopy of the ID page of your passport and store the photocopy in a separate location. In case your passport is lost, the photocopy will reduce the time you spend getting a replacement passport issued.

Dining Breakfast, lunch and dinner are included every day of Compass Club beginning with dinner on Saturday, July 27th and ending with dinner (for those with evening departures) on Saturday, August 3. Please refer to the “Dayby-Day Itinerary� section of this booklet for times and locations.

Breakfasts and lunches will be buffet style, as is your welcome dinner in Nairobi. Dinners are usually table service.

Non-alcoholic beverages are included with breakfast and lunch. If you wish to have a beer or glass of wine with lunch, you may pay cash or charge it to your room (or tent). Non-alcoholic beverages plus wine and beer are included with all dinners. CA has pre-selected wines at each of the hotels, camps and lodges. Believe us, this is not to keep costs down, but to ensure that your accommodations have an ample supply of drinkable wine.

Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner This year the awards ceremony will take place before dinner, so you will be sitting for a couple of hours between the time the awards presentation begins and the time dinner is served. To prevent starvation during this period, CA will host a light buffet in the hotel ballroom from 3:00 to 5:00 p.m.

71 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

If you choose to bring your passports and international airline tickets with you on safari, please be consistent and store them in the same pocket of the same safari bag all the time.

At 5:30 p.m. leave from the front door of the hotel for our annual Compass Club Awards Presentation and Dinner. As a courtesy to all Compass Club members we ask that you please be prompt. The location of our awards event is Nairobi’s famous Carnivore Restaurant, which is about a 30 minute drive from the hotel. Because of our location and because many of you have flights very early tomorrow morning, the attire for this year’s festivities is casual; no jeans please. Safari attire is welcomed. Ladies, the Awards Presentation will take place on the grass, so wear flat shoes.

Once you have arrived you will be directed to a special tent (marquee) that has been erected on the restaurant grounds. The two hour ceremony will take place inside the tent and you will be assigned to a specific seating area.

Presentations over, you will be directed to the Carnivore Restaurant for dinner. For a complete description of the Carnivore, please refer to August 2 in the “Day-by-Day Itinerary” section of this booklet. There is no assigned dinner seating, so you may sit with whomever you like. Later the Carnivore becomes our own private Compass Club Nightclub complete with dance band, disco, and some special local entertainment.

Transportation will return to the hotel beginning at 9:00.

The evening ends at 11:00 p.m.

Shopping Best buys include handicraft items – carved ebony and soapstone statues, shirts, woven baskets, rugs, woven fabrics, jewelry, brass, precious stones, and tribal artifacts, such as: swords, shields, masks and gourds. The sale and purchase of ivory, Rhino horn, and big game animal skins is prohibited. The traditional elephant hair bracelet which is worn to protect against evil spirits has been replaced by a bracelet which looks very similar, but is made from cow horn. Sheepskin rugs can be purchased legally. It is important that the skin of the sheep is properly cured, so make sure you shop in a reputable store. The fact is most of your shopping will probably be for souvenirs for your friends and families. You will find these items at virtually all of your hotels, camps, and lodges. In addition, during our sightseeing trip on July 28th, you will have the opportunity to buy

72 TRAVEL I NFO

Most shops are opened from 9:00 or 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 or 5:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Telephone Calls and E-Mail From Nairobi and Diani...

Telephone calls to and from Kenya are not the complex matter they once were, but they are expensive. Your Nairobi (and Diani) hotel room has direct dial phones, so you can call home without going through the hotel operator. You should know that you will pay the highest rate for this convenience. A one-minute call from Nairobi to Europe and North America costs about US$6.00 and about US$8.00 to Australia, Asia, and South America.

While on Safari...

You should assume that you will not have a telephone in the guest room of your lodge or camp. Telephones are available in the reception area and the hotel operator will place a call for you. It can take a while to get a line to the outside world. Except for emergencies, telephone service is limited to the hours of 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Hours may vary according to the specific camp or lodge. The telephone numbers of all of your accommodations are listed in your “Itinerary at a Glance� in the front of this booklet. In addition you will receive a copy of the names and numbers of your accommodations, which you can leave with the folks at home.

Mobile/Cell Phones In many countries it is possible to make arrangements with your local telephone company so your mobile/cell phone will work in Nairobi and Diani. However, if you have not made such arrangements with your telephone

73 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Travel Info

handicraft items directly from the local Maasai women who traditionally bring their wares to market on Friday mornings only. By special arrangement with Chief Kihanya, the Maasai elder, the ladies have agreed to bring a sample of their work to the Karen Blixen House so you can buy directly from them. You can expect to bargain somewhat, but please keep in mind that the average Kenyan makes less than one US dollar per day. If at all possible, it is best to negotiate in Kenyan shillings.

company do not expect your mobile/cell phone to work in Kenya. Even if you do arrange to have your mobile/cell phone operate in Nairobi and Diani, you have no chance of service from the wildlife parks.

E-Mail Kenya does have the internet, and your Nairobi hotel has a business center with on-line access. However, our experience is that the service is very slow. You will not be able to acces the internet from your lodges and tented camps.

Telephone Credit Card Users Kenya does not have agreements with companies offering “dial direct” programs to other countries.

Weights and Measures Kenya uses the metric system of weights and measures.

1 meter = 36.39 inches (about a yard) 1 liter = 1.05 quarts 1 kilogram (kg) = 2.2 lb 1 kilometer = 0.62 mile To convert kilometers to miles, multiply the number of kilometers by 6 and move the decimal point one place to the left. For example, 10 kilometers equals about 6 miles.

Temperature in Kenya is measured in Celsius degrees. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit you have to multiply the temperature in Celsius by 1.8 and add 32 which may be a bit difficult to do in your head. For a close approximation, take the temperature in Celsius multiply by 2 and add 30.

For example, to convert 25˚C to Fahrenheit, multiply 20 by 2 = 50, and add 30 = 80. (Actual is 77˚ F)

74 TRAVEL I NFO

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

Travel Info P 50

Travel Info

P

76

On Safari P 94

On Safari

Big Five 102 The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

P

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

About Kenya

About Kenya

About Kenya Geography Kenya lies on the equator at the eastern edge of Africa.

With an area of approximately 225,000 square miles (583,000 sq. km.), Kenya is about the same size as the state of Texas, or Spain and Portugal combined. The country is surrounded by Ethiopia and Sudan to the north, Somalia and the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the south, and Uganda and Lake Victoria to the west. The population of Kenya is approximately 30 million. By comparison, the population of Texas is about 20 million and that of Spain and Portugal combined totals 40 million.

Kenya's capital and largest city is Nairobi (2-3 million).

Kenya comprises four main geographic areas. The fertile Rift Valley and central highlands stretch the length of the country from north to south and into Tanzania, forming a kind of geographic backbone.

Nairobi is situated on the southern end of the central highlands. The coastal belt runs approximately 300 miles (500 km.) along the Indian Ocean and features magnificent beaches, coral reefs and several world-class resorts.

Mombasa is the largest coastal city. Northern and eastern Kenya are mostly desolate unpopulated areas of mountainous bushland and desert. The Western Kenyan Plateau, like the Rift Valley, covers an area from near Sudan in the north to Tanzania in the south.

Government Jamhuri ya Kenya, The Republic of Kenya’s official country name, has been an independent republic since December 12, 1963 when it gained autonomy from the United Kingdom and became a member of the

76 A BOUT K ENYA

Commonwealth of Nations. Government consists of a onehouse National Assembly, an elected president, Daniel arap Moi, and a High Court. The legal system is based on English common law and traditional tribal law. Despite the fact that Kenya has only one official political party, the country has been a bastion of stability, peace and democracy in a part of the world which, quite obviously, could use some guidance in these areas.

Language

Population The population of 28-30 million consists of 28 or 29 million Africans, 80,000 Asians, and 45,000 Europeans.

Almost half of the population is under 15 years old. 85% of the population live on only 15% of the land. 70% of the people are concentrated in the areas surrounding Nairobi and Mombasa . Until a few years ago the average family size was 8 and the population was growing at the rate of 3.5% Today the rate of growth has slowed to 2.6% and the family size is reduced to 6. There are more than 70 distinct tribal groups among the Africans. Although in modern times the distinction between the tribes has blurred somewhat, the tribal distinction is still a very important part of a person's identity. When two Africans meet they will either know by physical characteristics each other's tribe, or say the name of their tribe as part of the introduction.

The major tribes include: Kikuyu (22%), Luhya (14%),

77 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

The official languages of Kenya are English and Swahili.

Swahili was declared an “official language� in 1974. Most Kenyans speak at least three languages. They grow up speaking a tribal language at home and with friends and later learn Swahili and English in school. The main tribal languages are: Kikuyu, Luo, Kikamba, Maasai, and Samburu.

Following these are perhaps forty to fifty lesser tribal languages. Swahili is a Bantu language which has been heavily influenced by Arabic and Portuguese. The language developed in the 8th century as a result of the Arab trade with Africa. Because Bantu did not have a written alphabet, Swahili was originally written in Arabic. When the English missionaries arrived they began writing Swahili using the sounds of the English (Roman) alphabet.

Luo (13%), Kalenjin (12%), Kamba (11%), Kisii (6%), and Meru (6%). Life expectancy for males is 51 years, and 54 years for females. 69% of the adult population is literate. It is interesting to note that locals partially attribute Kenya's political stability to the fact that the country is comprised of several tribes and no one tribe holds a simple majority. By contrast, note the problems in countries like Rwanda, Somalia, Zaire and Angola where only one or two tribes dominate.

Economy The economy of Kenya is very much capitalistic. Its cornerstone is agriculture, which accounts for 31% of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP), employs 80% of the population and accounts for 50% of Kenya's export income.

Major crops include: corn (maize), sorgum (a cereal crop), cassava, beans and fruit. The main cash crops are: coffee, tea, cotton, sisal, pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum) and tobacco. Recently tourism replaced coffee as the country's largest hard currency producing product. Kenyan manufacturing is on the rise and now accounts for 15% of the GDP. Kenya’s major export trading partners are: UK (17%), Germany (11.5%), Uganda (9%), USA (7%), and the Netherlands (6.5%). The major sources of import products are: Saudia Arabia (18.5%), UK (14%), Japan (10%), Germany (8%), and the USA (5.5%).

Kenya produces a total of goods and services of about US$33.1 billion with a growth rate of 3.3%. The Gross National Product per person is about US$1,170. Average per person yearly income is about US$358. The inflation rate is 30% and the urban unemployment rate is about 35%.

Religion Major religions are: Protestant (38%), Catholic (28%), traditional tribal religions (26%), and Islam (8%).

78 A BOUT K ENYA

Important Dates in Kenya History Kenya is a heavily wooded plateau that slopes gradually downward to the Indian Ocean. In these forests live several types of apes named "dryopithecines", one of which will evolve into modern man. The process will take 25.96 million years.

25 million

Molten rock beneath the Kenyan plateau creates pressure on the earth's crust, causing it to rise. Soon there will be a series of eruptions which will create Africa's tallest mountains (Kilimanjaro, Kenya and Elgon), Lake Victoria and the Rift Valley.

15 million

“...Then came a collision of titanic proportions: the African continentent rammed onto that of Eurasia and the two massive blisters, one in Kenya and one in Ethiopia, arose. The crust groaned under tremendous pressure as it was forced higher and higher; in the end the strain was just too much; the crust had to crack, and it did.

Countless trillions of tons of rock crashed downwards as fault lines opened up, stretching from northeast to southwest; the blisters were lanced, creating the first visible signs of what was to become the Great Rift Valley.” People of the Lake, by Richard Leakey and Roger Lewin, 1979

3.75 million

Our oldest ancestor climbs down out of a tree somewhere near Lake Turkana, which in about 3.51 million years will come to be called "the cradle of Mankind." The species, "Australopithecus," has fully upright posture and walks on two feet. In 1976 renowned anthropologist Mary Leakey discovered footprints made in volcanic ash, which had been preserved for the last 3.75 million years. Here’s her report: “When we first came across the

79 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

26 million BC

(foot) prints I must admit I was skeptical, but then it became clear that it could be nothing else... A large individual, probably a male, walked slowly toward the north.

Following behind was a smaller individual, who for some reason, placed his or her feet in the prints of the first individual. A youngster skipped along by their side, turning at one point to look to its left.... They are the most remarkable find I have made in my career. They are the earliest prints of man’s ancestors, and they show us that hominids three-and-three-quarter million years ago walked upright with a free-striding gait, just as we do today�.

3.1 million

"Lucy," a female of the species Australopithecus africanus, is born. Her remains will be discovered 3,104,179 years from now by Dr. Donald Johnson who'll prove by her skeletal remains that humans existed and could walk upright 3 million years ago. (By the way, Lucy was named

by Dr. Johnson after the Beatles song "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds," the tune he was listening to at the time Lucy was found.) A replica of Lucy can be seen in the Nairobi National Museum.

3,099,975

"Lucy" dies at the age of 25 which is normal life expectancy at this time. The exact cause is unknown, however, severe arthritis and the fact that the left side of her head is missing undoubtedly hastened her demise. She reached a maximum height of 4 feet (1.3 m) and had a brain of about 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) square, less than half the size of the brain of modern humans.

3-2 million

Life is tough.

2.5-2 million

Homo habilis now inhabits Kenya. They are the earliest members of the species Homo and considered by many scientists to be the first humans. Homo habilis

80 A BOUT K ENYA

("handy man") grows to 5 feet (1.7 m), uses tools, eats both plants and meat, and has a brain 50% larger than poor Lucy's.

The footprints of Homo habilis are almost indistinguishable from those of modern humans.

Homo erectus ("upright man") lives in Kenya and Tanzania. The species constructs buildings, hunts large animals, uses sophisticated hand tools and can make fire.

Their bodies begin to take on the shape of modern humans. Maximum height is almost 6 feet (2 m).

1 million

Homo erectus has proved to be a big evolutionary success and is on the move!

Eastward to India, and on to China by 900,000 BC, then Europe by 700,000 BC.

300,000

Homo sapiens ("wise man") develop in East Africa. They're bigger, faster, and smarter than homo erectus. In another 250,000 years this group would evolve into us.

100,000

Homo sapiens sapiens ("wise wise man") appear in Kenya. They have smaller faces, higher foreheads, lighter skulls, straighter limbs and most important, bigger brains than their ancestors. By this date virtually all Kenyan animals and plants have evolved into their present form. Imagine, if you were to walk out onto the Kenya plain 100,000 years ago, all of the animals would appear just as they do today...except man.

To put human existence into perspective, consider this: The Universe is 13 billion years old. The earth is 4.5 billion. If the 4.5 billion years were reduced to a single day, the time that human beings have been human beings would begin at 11:58 p.m.

50,000-40,000 Homo sapiens sapiens have developed biologically into modern man.

81 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

1.65 million

30,000

The Neanderthals of Northern Africa and Europe have become extinct, and it looks like the Homo sapiens sapiens will take over the planet. About 32,000 years later, British novelist Graham Greene will write: "God...created a number of possibilities in case some of his prototypes failed - that is the meaning of evolution."

10,000

The number of Homo sapiens sapiens living in the world is estimated to be 3 million.

8,000

The agricultural revolution begins. World population reaches 5 million.

1,000

Egyptians explore the Kenyan coast.

110 AD

Oldest documented accounts of trade between Kenya and the outside world.

Records kept by the Greek Diogenes during the rule of King Muza include the oldest known description of Kenya. Diogenes reports that he landed along the coast and traveled inland to "two great lakes and the snowy range of mountains from which the Nile draws its two sources." This is a truly remarkable discovery, especially when considering that it would be almost 2,000 years before another European would confirm that Diogenes was right.

900

Arrival of the Arabs who will control the coast for most of the next 1,000 years and introduce Islamic Religion. This event signals the beginning of the "Golden Age" of Mombasa.

1,000

Hamite, Cushitic and Nilotic peoples, considered to be the ancestors of the more than 40 indigenous Kenyan peoples, migrate here from all over Africa. These nomadic tribes bring with them cows, sheep and goats. The Hamites will mix with the indigenous people to create the Bantu race.

82 A BOUT K ENYA

Arabs and Persians develop trade with the interior of the country. The Swahili emerge as a community with a distinct language.

1497

King Henry the Navigator of Portugal is convinced that there is a water route to India and he is determined to find it.

Henry builds four ships, the largest of which is approximately 100 ft. (31 m) long and 20 ft. (6 m) wide. The four ships can carry a total of 118 men. Daily rations include: 1 lb. (.5 kg) of salted meat, .5 liter of wine, one liter of water, rice, olive oil, beans, flour, onions and sugar. The leader of the expedition is Vasco da Gama.

1498

Vasco arrives in Mozambique. Although he is able to replenish supplies, his men get into a religious argument with his Islamic hosts and the Portuguese are forced to leave. Two weeks later he arrives in Mombasa. Another bad reception. Vasco continues north. He arrives in Malindi to find that the Malindi people have heard of his problems in Mombasa. But, good luck, the Malindi people hate the Mombasa people, so Vasco gets all the help he needs, including an Arab ship pilot who sails with him to India.

1499

Vasco da Gama returns to Portugal. His voyage took two years, covered 24,000 miles (40,000 k) and signaled the beginning of the Portuguese presence in the Indian Ocean, which was to last 200 years.

1505

The Portuguese invade Mombasa. Their battle strategy is simple: "Build ladders, use them to climb onto the roofs of the houses, stamp our feet, play trumpets, and scream 'Santiago' (St. James) as loudly as we can." Believe it or not, the plan works.

The frightened Arabs run out of their houses, and 1500 are killed in a matter of 83

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

1350

minutes. By 1507 the Portuguese will control the Kenyan coast.

1593

Portuguese build Fort Jesus in Mombasa.

This date signals the beginning of 125 years of Portuguese rule in East Africa.

1696

The Imam of Oman, who has seen his import/export business decimated by the Portuguese, orders 7 ships and 3,000 men to invade Mombasa and take Fort Jesus.

As the ships arrive 2,500 Portuguese troops and loyalists crowd into Fort Jesus (the fort can comfortably hold about 500).

The siege lasts an incredible 33 months, and 2,485 people die of either disease or starvation. In the end, the entire garrison consists of "eight Portuguese soldiers, three Indians, two African women, the Captain's slave and an 11 year old boy."

1720

The Omanis finally drive the Portuguese out. Except for a short period 100 years from now, the Sultans of Oman will rule all of East Africa for 150 years. They will continue to control the Kenya coast until 1963 - almost 250 years.

1824

February 7 – England enters the scene.

Life along the Kenya coast is awful - corrupt governors and economic depression.

The British ship, HMS Leven, under the command of Captain Owen, sails into Mombasa, and the inhabitants beg the captain to take command. Owen is flattered and claims the area as a British Protectorate. "King George will love this idea," Owen thinks. Next, he sends word of his accomplishment back to London.

Unfortunately, no E-mail and the usual government bureaucracy mean that it will take three years for London to respond...

1827

Bad news for Owen. King George hates the idea. Worried about his imperialistic market share in Hong Kong, India, Egypt,

84 A BOUT K ENYA

1828

The Sultan of Oman regains control of the coast from the English.

1840

The Sultan moves his headquarters and capital from Oman to Zanzibar. Now, rather than ruling East Africa from Oman, he rules Oman from East Africa. He changes his name to the Sultan of Zanzibar.

1844

The first Protestant missionaries arrive.

They are shocked.

1849

Austrian adventurer Johan Ludwig Krapf leads an expedition to the interior of East Africa. He sees (but doesn't climb) Mt. Kenya. This is the first record of a European reaching the interior of Kenya and the beginning of 50 years of the exploration and mapping of its territory.

1862

John Speke, a 35 year old Englishman leading a safari financed by the Royal Geographic Society, follows the Nile back to a small stream and finally confirms what Diogenes knew 17 centuries ago - that Lake Victoria is the source of the Nile.

1871

10 November. Stanley finds Livingstone.

Although it didn't happen in Kenya, it is an 85

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

Canada, Ireland, Scotland and the Caribbean, King George responds: "East Africa is not compatible with long-term Empire strategy. The Protectorate is cancelled." To make matters worse, King George wants to know: "Who signed-off on this Protectorate thing anyway?" Our friend Owen gets sacrificed. He is told that his expense reports for the past two years will be audited, he gets "re-orged" back to the home office, and now captains a rowboat which carries lepers from the Tower of London to a barge anchored in the middle of the Thames. Ouch! Owen floats his resumĂŠ. No takers.

interesting story: David Livingstone, Scots missionary and staunch abolitionist, led an expedition to central Africa in 1866. Some of his workers desert and spread the rumor that Livingstone had been killed by the Ngoni tribe. The New York Herald sends a reporter, Mr. Henry M. Stanley, to find the lost missionary. The following is quoted from Stanley's diary: "Suddenly a man - a black man - at my elbow, shouts in English, 'How do you do sir?'

'Hello, who the deuce are you?'

'I am the servant of Dr. Livingstone,' he says and before I can ask any more questions he is running like a madman toward the town. There are hundreds of people around me - I might say thousands without exaggeration, it seems to me. It is a grand and triumphal procession. As we move, they move. All eyes are drawn towards us.

The expedition at last comes to a halt; the journey is ended for a time; but I alone have a few more steps to make...and as I come nearer I see the face of an old man among them. He has a cap with a gold band around it, his dress is a short jacket of red blanket cloth, and his pants - well, I didn't observe. I am shaking hands with him.

We raise our hats, and I say: 'Dr. Livingstone, I presume?'

And he says, 'Yes'."

1876

Major world powers - England, France, Germany, Belgium and The United States - begin to look at Africa as a source of raw materials and a market for manufactured products. The Sultan, afraid of losing territory, wants to join forces with somebody.

86 A BOUT K ENYA

"Maybe," thinks the Sultan, "England wasn't so bad after all."

When hearing the king’s words. Owen shrugs and says, “What’s a Bermuda?”

1880

The British Royal Geographical Society commissions Joseph Thompson to chart East Africa. His chronicle of the events: Walking Through Maasai Land becomes a best-seller in England. Soon other Englishmen come for a visit. The beginnings of tourism in Kenya can be traced to the publishing of Thompson's book.

1886

In what is called "The Scramble for Africa," major European powers meet in Berlin to subdivide the African Continent.

The British take Kenya and Uganda, but the Sultan of Zanzibar retains control of 10 miles of land along the coast, which future sultans will continue to control until 1963.

In the next 20 years, Africa will be transformed into a checkerboard of European 87

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

London, again ready to expand, re-thinks its Africa strategy. "Get me Owen," commands the King. By now, Owen is out of the boat captain business, and is found working as the assistant night manager in a fish and chips joint near the docks. One of the King's low-level bureaucrats visits, buys lunch, and asks Owen if he would like his old job back. Owen's response is only two words, but we can't print them here. The King, not discouraged, sends his personal carriage. Owen, nobody's fool, figures correctly that this has something to do with Kenya and holds out for a raise, better title and pension. The King concedes and Owen capitulates. Later, the King will brag about the incident, saying: “Owen sold out cheap. I would have thrown in a piece of Bermuda, if he had asked."

and North African colonies, protectorates and territories.

1888

The Imperial British East Africa Company (IBEA) is granted control of East Africa.

1892

Johnstone Kamau is born. He is later to change his name to Jomo Kenyatta and become first president of an independent Kenya.

1895

The IBEA is bankrupt. The British government takes over on June 15, and the area becomes the 'British East Africa Protectorate.'

1896

Abundance of trade between Mombasa and Uganda warrants the construction of a railroad line between the two. It will take six years to complete. The southeast terminus will be Mombasa and the northwest will be Lake Victoria. An unimportant swamp halfway in between which the Maasai call "the place of cold waters" or Nairobi, becomes the headquarters of the railway. The construction is so difficult and costly that the project becomes known as the "Lunatic Line to Nowhere." The railroad will be completed in 1901 at the outrageous cost of UKÂŁ9,500 per mile.

1897

Railroad chaos. It seems that two lions from the Tsavo region are attacking at night and eating the crew. Morale among the workers is poor. Morale among the lions, however, has never been better. It will take Lieutenant-Colonel Patterson, head of construction, several months to destroy the lions. In total 28 non-African and perhaps 100 or so African and Indian workers are eaten.

1905

Nairobi succeeds Mombasa as the capital of British East Africa.

1908

Electricity comes to Kenya.

88 A BOUT K ENYA

The Treaty of Versailles ends World War I. The British Crown offers land in the Kenyan highlands as a reward to British veterans. Africans are moved from their homeland to accommodate the Brits.

Friction between the two develops.

1920

Beginning of an organized effort for Kenyan independence. The British East Africa Protectorate becomes the "Kenya Colony and Protectorate."

1922

Riots in Nairobi between the Africans and the English. Between 25 and 100 people are killed outside the central police station. Harry Thuku, leader of the PanKenyan Nationalist Organization is arrested.

1929

Jomo Kenyatta travels to England in an effort to obtain independence for Kenya.

No luck.

1939-1945

World War II. Kenya is used as a training ground for the Allied forces, but is spared the intense fighting that takes place in Ethiopia, Abyssinia and northern Africa.

1944

Beginning of the Mau Mau movement.

This is an underground organization of members of the Kikuyu tribe who are dedicated to the establishment of an independent Kenyan state by whatever means necessary.

1945

Concerned about the destruction of Africa's natural resources during the war, Kenya establishes the "Nairobi National Park," the nation's first.

1952-56

The Mau Mau Uprising in East Africa.

British Parliament calls for a state of emergency as white settlers are attacked. Jomo Kenyatta, among others, is arrested and jailed. By 1956 the Mau Mau will be driven into the hills. Later, the entire Kikuyu tribe

89 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

1918

will be relocated. The uprising was unsuccessful in some respects, but it opened the door for Kenyan independence. It had cost the British many lives and millions of pounds. The revolt showed that the local colonial government could not rule without continuous help from Britain. The strength of the movement had shown widespread support for nationalism and hatred for foreign rule. The British government began to make changes to satisfy African demands.

1959

Kenyatta is released from jail, but kept under house arrest.

1962

A conference on Kenyan independence is held in London and a constitution mutually agreed upon.

1963

December 12 – at the stroke of midnight...

The Union Jack is hauled down for the last time, and the new green, black, red, and white flag of Kenya takes its place. The green represents the land, black for the people, and red for the blood shed in the fight for independence. Kenyatta is freed and elected Prime Minister.

1964

December 12 – exactly one year later, seventy-seven years after Kenya became a protectorate, and forty-four years after it was made a colony, Kenya is declared a republic. Prime Minister Jomo Kenyatta is sworn in as the country’s first president, and a man with a very cool name, Oginga Odinga, is the first vice president.

1969

Anthropologist Richard Leakey finds a skull near Lake Turkana in northern Kenya close to the Ethiopian border. The skull proves to be approximately 2.5 million years old, which means that humans existed at least 1 million years earlier than previously thought.

90 A BOUT K ENYA

Kenya imposes a ban on all hunting, which will last for 6 years.

1978

Jomo Kenyatta dies and is succeeded by Daniel arap Moi (who continues to govern as president to this day).

1979

Dr. Donald Johnson discovers "Lucy," a female of the species Australopithecus africanus (see 3.1 million B.C.), and proves that humans could walk upright 3.1 million years ago.

1982

Some leaders of the Kenyan Air Force stage an unsuccessful coup d'ĂŠtat. As a reaction, a Kenya Constitutional amendment makes the government a one party state.

1985

Massive poaching reduces Kenya's black rhino population from 20,000 in 1970 to about 450. During the same 15 year period, the elephant population has been reduced by an estimated 20%. How can this be? The average Kenyan makes less than US$300 per year. One kilo (2.2 lb.) of rhino horn earns the poacher approximately US$800.

1992

Kenyans don't like the one party idea and the first multi-party elections are held.

President Moi is re-elected.

1997

More than 800 Computer Associates Compass Club qualifiers and guests arrive and participate in the first CA Safari. All goes very well.

2002

After a 4 year and 11 month hiatus, Compass Club returns to Kenya. The past year has been a difficult one, but CA’s 400 best and brightest succeed in making quota.

91 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

About Kenya

1977

92 A BOUT K ENYA

Travel Info P 50

Travel Info

About Kenya P 76

About Kenya

On Safari P 94

On Safari

Big Five 102 The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

P

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

On Safari he concept of “safari,” the Swahili word for “journey,” began with the British in the late 19th century. The first safaris were news-making events. Returning explorers were heralded as heroes and often knighted for their accomplishments. In the early 1900’s the safari became associated with big game hunting and was brought to celebrity status by men such as Randolph Churchill, Teddy Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway. Safari, in the modern sense of the term, consists of six to eight people in a “safari cruiser” (usually a modified Toyota van) which is driven over, around and through the African savannah by a local guide. For our purposes, “On Safari” refers to the four days of Club which you will spend in the Kenya National Parks and Game Reserves. The term “game drive” denotes the time you are in the cruiser viewing the animals. Though the cruisers accommodate as many as eleven people, six to eight people fit very comfortably; there’s plenty of room to move around and the visibility is excellent. Safari cruisers have tops which open to enhance viewing and provide a superb vantage point for taking photos and videos. All of our cruisers will carry the appropriate safety equipment: tool kit, first aid kit, ropes, jack, spare wheel and fire extinguishers. One bottle of water per person will be provided each day.

T

Much of the fun of going on safari comes from your interaction with the guides who are truly one of Kenya’s natural treasures.

You will find them courteous, friendly and knowledgeable.

They also possess an uncanny ability to spot wildlife. Upon arrival at the wildlife reserves on July 29th, you will divide yourselves into safari cruiser size groups of six to eight. From that time until you depart for your next park on July 31st, you become the 94 O N S AFARI

responsibility of the local guide, your new best friend.

Please follow his instructions. As a courtesy to other guests, please don’t talk when he is speaking. And during the game drives, never, ever get out of the vehicle unless he tells you it is safe to do so.

One of the most remarkable aspects of a safari is the realization that nothing is fenced-in except for good reason, you. During the trip you will hear the terms “wildlife reserves” and “wildlife parks.” It is important to understand that these are not parks confined by man-made fences or boundaries. They are places in Kenya where the climate and soil permit sufficient vegetation to attract and support

95 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

On Safari

If you have read your Day-By-Day Itinerary, you will have noticed that we have already indicated the times when you will leave for the game drives. While these times will be accurate in most cases, it is possible that due to local conditions such as weather, or the birth of a litter of cheetah cubs, or some other reason, your guide may suggest that you change the schedule slightly. Generally, the best viewing is in the early morning and late afternoon.

Each game drive usually lasts 2-2.5 hours. We know that some of you will want to spend all of your time riding around the countryside, while others may want to take a morning or afternoon off. On our CA Safari the choice is yours. Please keep in mind that there are no toilet facilities available during the game drive (except for the great big one the animals use), so make sure you have seen to this matter before leaving the lodge or camp.

huge numbers of the most diverse species of animals in the world. Some of Kenya’s parks and reserves cover an area larger than the state of New Jersey (8,000 sq mi or 20,000 sq km). The animals go anywhere they want, just as they have done for the past 2 million years or so. Therefore, we can’t tell for sure which animals you will see. But...

The months of July and August provide the best viewing of herds of antelope, including: impala, wildebeest, gazelle, hartebeest, topi, waterbuck, bushbuck, bongo and eland.

Safari drama is provided by the villains: hyena, jackal, lion, cheetah, leopard, fox, serval cat, vulture and crocodile.

The heroes: giraffe, elephant, hippopotamus, zebra, buffalo, warthog, and rhinoceros. And the comedians: baboons and monkeys. (Gorillas and chimpanzees are not indigenous to this part of Africa.) You will also see hundreds of different types of birds (Kenya is home to about 1,500 species), including: ostrich, eagles, hawks, guineafowl, parrots, and dozens of different varieties of sparrows, storks, geese, ducks, swifts, plovers, doves, trogons and barbets.

In fact, it is not uncommon to sight 150 or more species of birds in a single day. Bird watchers in Europe and North America tell us that they would be lucky to spot that many different kinds of birds in a year.

Prior to boarding the safari cruisers, make sure you have the following with you: • hat • camera, spare battery, and more film than you think you will need 96 O N S AFARI

• sunscreen • sunglasses • water (provided by your guide) It is best to leave your passport and other valuables in your room or in the safe at the lodge or tented camp.

“Travelers share the responsibility of respect for the dignity and diversity of other cultures and concern for the renewable resources of the destinations visited.

We hope you will not object if we suggest some guidelines to make your visit more enjoyable and to reduce the disturbance to the wildlife and the environment.

• Wild animals always have the right of way.

• Unnecessary noise can startle and disturb wildlife.

Do not forget that these animals are wild and please respect their privacy. We suggest all vehicles should be a distance of at least 20 feet (6 m) away.

• Scenery and habitat are as important as our animals.

Please avoid damaging the vegetation and remember that litter can endanger the lives of our valuable wildlife. Please do not feed the animals at any time.

Monkeys and baboons look cute, but they can be dangerous.

• Fire is always a danger. Smoking is not permitted in safari vehicles.

• East Africa contains a mixture of races and religions.

We would ask you to take the time to learn the cus97 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

On Safari

The people at the Kenya Department of Tourism and the rangers who patrol the game parks take their jobs very seriously. Out of respect for the animals and their habitat, the department of tourism in conjunction with the park rangers have put together a Conservation Code of Conduct, which they have asked us to reproduce for you:

toms of the different areas and respect their traditions. The coast of East Africa is a Muslim area; please respect the customs and dress codes.

• The people of Kenya are grateful for your attention and consideration to conservation. The country supports many major conservation agencies who will be grateful to you for your consideration.”

Depending upon the exact safari itinerary you receive, it is likely that you will be flying from one destination to another. The scenery is spectacular and, depending on the cloud cover, you could see: the Rift Valley, the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Maasai people tending their herds, and millions of animals. The CA fleet will consist of 48 passenger Dash 7’s, 18 passenger “Twin Otters,” and 16 passenger “Caravans”, all FAA approved and maintained aircraft. The captains are well-trained, experienced English, Kenyan, South African, Australian and North American pilots. Flying time between the parks is usually 60-75 minutes.

On the next page is a list of the animals you may see on safari. You may want to use this list to check your sightings.

98 O N S AFARI

ANIMAL CHECKLIST ✔ Impala

African Elephant

Large-spotted Genet

African Ground Squirrel

Leopard

African Hunting Dog

Leopard Tortoise

African Scrub Hare

Lion

African Wildcat

Livingstone’s Eland

Banded Mongoose

Maasai Bushbuck

Bat-eared Fox

Maasai Giraffe

Beisa Oryx

Monitor Lizard

Black & White Colobus Monkey

Nile Crocodile

Black Rhinoceros

Olive Baboon

Black-backed Jackal

Oribi

Blue Wildebeest

Reticulated Giraffe

Bohor Reedbuck

Rothschild’s Giraffe

Burchell Zebra

Samango (Blue) Monkey

Cheetah

Side-striped Jackal

Coke’s Hartebeest

Slender Mongoose

Common (Ringed) Waterbuck

Small-spotted Genet

Copper-tailed Monkey

Spotted Hyena

Dafossa Waterbuck

Steenbok

Gerenuk

Syke’s Monkey

Giant Forest Hog

Thompson’s Gazelle

Golden Jackal

Topi

Grant’s Gazelle

Tree Hyrax

Greater (Fat-tailed) Bush Baby

Vervet Monkey

Greater Kudu

White-tailed Mongoose

Grevy Zebra

Wart Hog

Guenther’s Dik-dik

White Rhinoceros

Hippopotamus

99 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

On Safari

African (Cape) Buffalo

100 O N S AFARI

Travel Info P 50

Travel Info

About Kenya P 76

About Kenya

On Safari P 94

On Safari

The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

Big Five P 102

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

Itinerary P4

Itinerary

“The Big Five” Plus Three he term “The Big Five” refers to the turn-of-the-century days when the following were the most prized trophies: elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo, lion, and leopard.

The “Plus Three” is an expression we made up to describe three other unique animals.

T

Elephant The elephant is the largest living land animal.

Adult male elephants average 9-11 feet (33.7m) in height and can weigh 13,000 lb (6,000 kg). The ears alone can be 5 ft (1.5 m) long. The life expectancy of an elephant is 45-60 years.

Both sexes of the African elephant have tusks, which are actually elongated incisor teeth. Average adult male tusks weigh 134 lb (61 kg) each.

The largest known tusk weighs 236 lb (107 kg ) and is 11.5 ft (3.5 m) long. While the tusks are impressive, the trunk is just plain unbelievable. Maybe the most remarkable of nature’s appendages, this versatile tool pushes, pulls, digs, drinks, smells, and makes loud noises. It is strong enough to tear down a tree and sensitive enough to pick up a pea.

The hide on an elephant’s shoulder can be an inch and a half (3.7 cm) thick.

Elephants are vegetarians and can eat as much as 500 lb (230 kg) and drink 200 to 300 liters (44-66 gal) of water per day.

When elephants walk, they put their hind feet in the tracks left by their front feet. This is nature’s way of crushing only as much grass as necessary. Elephants can’t jump.

In fact, technically elephants can’t run either (they can’t get three feet off the ground at the same time), but they can walk fast as hell. Cruising speed for an adult is about 15 mph (25 kph), but an angry bull elephant has been known 102 “THE BIG FIVE” PLUS THREE

to make a short charge at almost 25 mph (40 kph).

Elephants are very much at home in the water and can swim for up to six hours at a time.

The combination of their thick skin and enormous size protects them from all other wild animals. With only man to fear, elephants are generally peaceful and easy-going, and show great affection for each other. They tend to spend their lives as members of a family herd, which is comprised of several generations of blood relatives. Males are solitary or join bachelor herds. Females gather in herds with a matriarch as their leader. Next to humans, elephants have perhaps the most complex social structure of any mammal. Consider for example that in the old days of the hunting safari, if a matriarch was shot, the other females would not leave her side for hours. In fact, two elephants would stand on either side of the matriarch and try to raise her up.

Bull elephants rarely mate before age 25 and bulls 35 and older dominate the situation.

If you thought the social structure was involved, consider the gyrations necessary for mating: “Preparatory to mounting, the male lays his trunk along the female’s neck and head, rests his tusks on her chin or rump, and levers himself onto his bent hind legs, meanwhile bracing forelegs on her pelvis. Having gained entrance, the male straightens on his hind legs, etc., etc. .....” It reads like Elephant “Twister”, doesn’t it? While such antics may be OK for elephants, we ask that you please not try this in your tent.

103 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Big Five

The birth and weaning process are as complex as the rest of their social system. It all makes sense when one considers how old the females are when they give birth, how many years between calves, and how long the gestation period is. Cows do not give birth until they are 10 or 11 years old and then only once every 4 to 9 years. After a gestation period of 22 months, a female delivers one calf (rarely twins), which weighs between 265 and 300 lb (120-135 kg). When the mother is ready to give birth, she withdraws temporarily from the herd and is attended to by two female elephants who act as “midwives”. An elephant is weaned at 4 years, but spends 50% of its time within 5 meters of its mother until it is 9 years old.

The longevity of an elephant depends upon its teeth. As the teeth are worn away, each is replaced by a new one.

Between the age of 50 and 70, the animal produces its last set of teeth and when they are worn down, it starves to death.

The decline in the elephant population in Kenya is proportionate to the increase in the human population. In 1925, elephants roamed over 90% of the country. By 1950 the area was reduced to 71%, by 1975 their range had shrunk to 23%, and today it stands at about 20%. A ban was placed on ivory trading in 1989 when the African elephant was declared endangered by the United Nations’ Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species.

During the 1990’s the elephant population increased and it continues to do so today.

Buffalo True buffalo are natives of Asia and most parts of Africa. African Cape buffalo should not be confused with the American buffalo, which is actually a bison. Unlike Asian buffalo, the African buffalo has never been domesticated. From a distance a grazing herd of African buffalo can look like a bunch of cows, but they are considered one of the most dangerous of African animals. Buffalo are huge; a full grown bull can stand almost 6.5 feet (2.2 m) at the shoulder, weigh up to 1900 lb (865 kg), and its horns can reach a spread of 4 feet (1.3 m). Plus the older males have an unpredictable temper and can charge with little provocation. When other large animals, especially the rhino charge, they look ferocious, but after a few meters they usually forget what they were mad about, come to an abrupt halt, and look like we do when we walk into a room, and can’t remember why. When buffalo charge the results are often fruitful for the buffalo and disastrous for the target.

Within their own herds, buffalo are very social creatures and protect each other. The males and females live together in the same herd. Separate male and female rank orders

104 “THE BIG FIVE” PLUS THREE

exist within the herd, and the males are dominant. Calving reaches a peak in July after a gestation period of 330 to 346 days--the longest gestation period for any of the cowlike mammals. Old bulls past their prime are banished by the clan, join bachelor herds, and don’t have much fun.

(These are the dangerous ones.)

A healthy adult buffalo has only the lion to fear. When attached, the herd tends to bunch together tightly and trot away from the lion. The tightly packed group protects the younger members of the herd and makes it more difficult for the lion to single out a victim. But the attacking lions have to be cautious, because they are subject to a counterattack by the buffalo who are capable of trampling and goring them to death.

Lion

105 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Big Five

The lion, next to the tiger, is the largest member of the cat family, and the only African cat to travel in packs. All other mature big cats live and hunt alone until mating time.

Lions can be found in most of sub-Sahara Africa all the way to South Africa. In centuries past, lions inhabited all of Africa and western Asia. Today, they are rarely found outside of southern Africa, although there are small numbers in India. From nose to tail, the lion can reach 10 feet (3.3m) and stand 48 in. (120 cm) at the shoulder. Despite their weight of 420 to 570 lb (190-260 kg), they can jump over obstacles 6 feet high and run short distances at over 50 mph (85 kph). Lions usually hunt at night and prefer fresh meat, especially that of zebra, giraffe, buffalo and antelope, but they will settle for carrion if that’s all that is on the menu. They tend to hide by water holes and pounce on their victims as they pass.

Females do much of the hunting, while the males hunt only when a free lunch is not provided by the ladies. The lion’s jaws can open to a span of 11 inches (30 cm), and they can kill a zebra with a single bite.

The basic unit of lion society are prides of related females.

Male residents have successfully competed with other males for custody of the pride. This is no easy task and the battles for dominance often result in severe injury for the winner, and death for the loser. Furthermore, a male lion will remain dominant for only about two years before a younger and stronger male takes over. The entire ordeal is sometimes just too much for the male and by the age of 8 his hair begins to fall out. The poor thing is usually dead by 10.

The first act of the conquering male is to kill all of the lion cubs sired by his predecessor. The mothers can sometimes fend off the male and avoid the infanticide, but they risk being injured or killed and may have to flee the pride with their cubs. Here’s one for you: According to Richard Estes, author of The Safari Companion, for every lion cub that survives to yearling stage, lions copulate an average of 3,000 times. The female estrus lasts about 4 days, during which time the male and female mate round-the-clock an average of 2.2 times per hour. That’s 211.2 times in four days. If this isn’t enough, consider that the average pride consists of about 8 females and they all come into estrus at about the same time. Is it any wonder that the male is too tired to hunt and is dead by 10?

Rhinoceros Kenya is home to both the black and white species of rhinoceros. They are shy creatures and some of the most difficult animals to find on safari.

Interestingly enough neither species is black or white; both are the same muddy gray. Why the color designation? The name “white” is actually a corrupted form of the Afrikaans word, “weit” meaning wide, which describes the white rhino’s wide mouth, which is a very efficient grazing machine. The black rhino is a browser whose diet includes over 200 different types of plants and shrubs. Nature has equipped the black rhino with a narrow pointed prehensile upper lip which is perfectly suited to this task. Both black and white rhinos are among the most endangered species

106 “THE BIG FIVE” PLUS THREE

in the world (see the section of this booklet: “What Happened to the Rhinos�).

The white rhino is about twice the size of the black. An adult male white rhino is the second largest land mammal (although a hippo weighs more). It can grow to 14 feet long (4.7 m), stand 6 feet high (1.83 m) at the shoulder, and weigh almost 5,000 lb (2260 kg).

The white rhinos are the more social of the two species.

The females and young live in groups while the adult male is solitary and just shows up to mate. By the way, the mating act can take as long as two hours, which may account for the belief that the rhino horn is an aphrodisiac. Both the male and female black rhinos are solitary. The gestation period is about 16 months and the females give birth every 2.5 to 4 years.

Leopard Leopards have the greatest geographic distribution of any wild cat. The are found in Africa, Asia Minor, Central Asia and the Far East. The leopard may be the most feared animal in Kenya; they are strong, quiet, alert and very secretive. Leopards spend much of their time in trees and blend in

107 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Big Five

The rhino has two horns which are composed of keratin, the same material as cow horn. However, unlike the cow, the horns of a rhino are a fibrous, hair-like construction and solid throughout. The horns, which are attached to the skin are supported by a raised, roughened area on the skull.

The front horn is usually longer, up to 24 in. (75 cm) and thinner than the rear. Their armor-like skin is virtually hairless, except for stiff bristles at the tip of the tail and short fringes around the ears. Rhinos are extremely short sighted, but their sense of smell and hearing is keen.

Despite the fact that adult rhinos have nothing to fear from the usual predators, they normally avoid confrontation. But during mating season males will charge with little or no provocation, as will females with calves. Over short distances, rhinoceros can gallop at speeds of 28 mph (48 kph).

perfectly with their surroundings. In fact, there are many more leopards in Kenya than cheetahs, but they are more reclusive and harder to view. Leopards are much smaller than their cousins the lions. Normal size is between 7-8 ft long (2.0-2.3 m) excluding their 1-meter long tail. They stand about 2 feet tall (60-70 cm) at the shoulder, and weigh between 75-145 lb (35-65 kg). In fact, leopards are about the same size as cheetahs, but much stronger, and their hunting strategy is very different.

Leopards will eat anything from beetles to antelope weighing three times their own weight. They are solitary hunters who stalk with infinite patience in complete silence. A leopard tries to get within 5 meters of its prey and pounce on it. A leopard will never spring if it is more than 20 meters from its victim. What’s more, even though the leopard can accelerate to 37 mph (60 k) in a couple of seconds, it will never chase anything for more than 50 meters. But if it catches you, watch out. A leopard is incredibly strong and can kill a 300 lb (136 kg) topi or wildebeest, and run up a tree with a 150 lb (68 kg) impala hanging out of its mouth. During a night of hunting a leopard will range about 15 miles (25 k). For some reason, leopards are afraid of hyenas and the barking of small dogs such as fox terriers makes them crazy.

Leopards, like most big cats, live alone and only get together to mate. Their mating ritual is as busy as the lion’s, and although they have fewer partners, they make more noise during the act. The leopard’s gestation period is about 100 days. When the cubs are born they weigh only about a pound (500 g), are weaned in 3 months, and dependent upon the mother for about a year.

Cheetah The cheetah, a close relative of the leopard, is the fastest quadruped in the world. They live in sub-Sahara Africa and can be found in all of the national parks and reserves. The cheetah needs bushes, tall grass, and other cover to conceal it from its prey and bigger predators, but it avoids thick vegetation and forests. The body of the cheetah is about 7 ft (2.14 m) long, with a 2.5-ft (76-cm) tail and long, slender legs. The height at the shoulder is

108 “THE BIG FIVE” PLUS THREE

approximately 39 in. (100 cm), and average weight is 95-140 lb (45-65 kg). The cheetah is the only cat which can not retract its claws. Although it is about the same height and length as the leopard, the cheetah is a much thinner and leaner animal which uses speed and agility, rather than stealth and power to subdue its prey. In less than two seconds the cheetah can reach speeds greater than 70 mph (130 kph) and pursue its victim at that speed for about 300 yards (279 m). By the way, there isn’t a commercially manufactured automobile on earth that can go from 0 to 70 (130 k) in as short a time.

If the cheetah’s hunt is successful, which it is about 35% of the time, life is good. And can they ever eat – about 14 kg (30 lb) at a time, which is about 30% of their body weight (and, coincidentally, the same as your safari luggage allowance).

109 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Big Five

But all this speed doesn’t secure a kill. A cheetah sprinting after a gazelle can catch it easily, but if the gazelle turns sharply, the cheetah can have difficulty maintaining close pursuit. If the gazelle manages to dodge the speedster 3 or 4 times, our boy usually quits. A cheetah brings down its dinner either by tripping or knocking it off balance with one of its front paws. Once the victim is down, the cheetah goes for the throat, closes off the windpipe and in four or five minutes the thing is dead enough to eat. However, after such a sprint the cheetah’s body temperature rises, the muscles run out of oxygen, and it is left gasping for breath. Sometimes this allows the prey to escape, and in about 10% of the kills the cheetah’s groceries are stolen by bullies like the lion or hyena. Furthermore, consider that the cheetah has four long skinny legs running real fast over irregular and burrow-filled grounds. The chances of breaking a leg are very good. In fact, the hyenas have a joke about this exact situation. Question: “What do you call a cheetah with a broken leg?” Answer: “Lunch.” (If you are lying in your tent in the middle of the night and you hear the hyena laughing, chances are it is the result of one of them telling this exact joke.)

Cheetah are basically solitary creatures, but will form alliances with one or two other cheetahs to increase their odds of a successful kill. The alliances are always with members of the same sex, and often with their own siblings. Males and females get together only to mate, most of which takes place after the rainy season, so the cubs can be born when the grass is tall and the mother can easily conceal them. The gestation period is three months and average litter size is 3 to 4. When the cubs are born they weigh only 5 - 10 oz. (150 - 300 g) At 6 weeks the cubs are led to the kills and begin to learn their trade.

About half of all cheetah cubs are eaten by predators in the first three months.

Giraffe The giraffe is the tallest animal on earth.

Its great height allows it to thrive in places where trees are plentiful, but grass is scarce.

Like all strange looking animals, its peculiar shape is well suited to its lifestyle and eating habits. An adult male can grow to more than 18 feet (5.5 m). While everyone considers the height of the animal, few people contemplate its weight, which is considerable; up to 4250 lb (1932 k) or about as much as a BMW 540I with the CD option.

The neck may reach 8 feet (2.3 m) in length, yet a giraffe has only 7 vertebrae, the same number as in your neck. A series of valves in the vascular system ensures even blood supply to the head both when the animal is standing and stooping over to drink. The tongue of the giraffe is 18 inches long (45 cm) which allows the animal to browse the tops of trees 20 feet from the ground. When running, the giraffe looks slow and ungainly, but it can gallop at 37 mph (60 kph) for moderate distances. Giraffe are very intelligent and have a keen sense of sight and hearing.

To maintain its weight the giraffe must eat about 75 lb (43 kg) per day and drink every 2 to 3 days. Giraffe spend 11-12 hours a day browsing for food. The females spend about 3 hours and the males spend 5.5 hours a day just walking around. The extra 2.5 hours the males walk is spent looking for females in heat. Giraffe can sit down, but 110 “THE BIG FIVE� PLUS THREE

they can’t lie down. The length and weight of its neck makes it impossible for them to get up. Giraffe sometimes slip and fall when drinking along a slippery riverbank, and they have to keep their wits about them when mating. A fallen giraffe becomes easy prey for the lion, crocodile, and hyena. (The hyena have a joke for this situation as well. Its a variation on the cheetah joke mentioned above.)

Hippopotamus The name means “river horse” in Latin, but the hippopotamus is actually classified as an “eventoed ungulate” (by the people who classify such things), making it a distant relative of the pig.

Hippos, after elephants and white rhinos, are the largest animals on earth. They grow up to 14 feet long (2.7 m), stand 5.5 feet tall (165 cm), and can weigh 7,000 lb (3200 kg).

Hippos have giant incisor teeth, the bottoms are about 20 111 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Big Five

A full grown giraffe is a peaceful animal and has little to fear from the predatory cats. When challenged, however, it can inflict a fatal blow by kicking or striking the aggressor with its head. Giraffe live in loose open herds. They seem to like each other and, because of their giant size, they don’t need to band together for safety, but they do need to spread out to feed. Rarely do they get closer together than 20 meters. Calving mothers tend to congregate and stay together for the protection of the babies, usually keeping within 10 meters of each other. The female usually gives birth to a single young after a gestation period of 14.5 months. At birth the calves are about 5 feet tall (165 cm) and weigh 150 lb (70 kg). In the first few months of life, somewhere between 50 and 75% of calves are eaten by predators. The mothers do the best they can to defend against the lions who run the risk of being kicked to death by the female giraffe, but the lions usually win. A colleague of ours has witnessed the birth of a baby giraffe only to have both the calf and mother eaten by lions within 5 minutes of the birth. Such is the circle of life and death in this part of the world. If the giraffe make it past the first 6 months, they usually live from 15 to 20 years.

inches long (50 cm), and the tops measure 12-16 inches (30-40 cm). They are amphibians, making their homes in the lakes and rivers of East and Central Africa. Hippos have smooth sensitive skin and spend most of their time in the water resting, digesting, nursing, and socializing.

Ironically, however, they are vegetarians and won’t eat fish.

Fast and graceful swimmers, undisturbed, a hippo can remain submerged for six minutes at a time. Although they look peaceful, these animals have killed more humans than any other. Most of the disasters result when boaters inadvertently enter a herd’s territory. The boats are overturned and the trespassers crushed. An adult male hippo is capable of biting a 10 foot crocodile in two, so you can imagine what it could do to you.

At night hippos leave the water and come on land to feed – about 40 kilos of grass a night. During a typical evening the hippos will walk 2-3 miles (3-5 k) and sometimes as far as 6 miles (10 k). They tend to return to the same feeding grounds each night. The repetition crushes the vegetation and creates “highways” in the grass and underbrush. They are surprisingly nimble on land and can gallop at 18 mph (30 kph).

Hippos generally herd in groups of 10-20 with one dominant male. Herds are usually packed tightly together with hippos resting their heads on each other’s backs. Nonbreeding males are tolerated by the dominant male so long as they don’t try any funny stuff with the ladies.

Occasionally the temptation proves too much, and serious, sometimes fatal, fights occur. Before the battle, hippos stand back-to-back and projectile poop on each other. If that doesn’t dissuade either from fighting, a battle ensues.

The loser usually leaves the herd and joins a bachelor group.

Cows endure an 8 month gestation period, then isolate themselves before giving birth to a single offspring. Calves are programmed to nurse underwater. Mothers remain alone with their 50-120 lb (22-55 kg) baby for about 10 days before rejoining the herd. Although the young are in danger of being eaten by lion, hyenas, and crocodiles, their greatest threat is being crushed, or bitten, or stomped on by unruly males.

112 “THE BIG FIVE” PLUS THREE

Itinerary 4 P

Itinerary

P

Info 50

Travel Info

On Safari P 94

On Safari

Big Five 102 The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

P

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

About Kenya P 76

About Kenya

“What Happened to the Rhinos?” n 1969, Kenya was home to 20,000 rhinoceros; today the number is about 1,100. In Uganda the situation was even worse. Sometime in the mid 70’s, game poachers killed a solitary white rhino and, by that single act, reduced the number of rhinoceros in Uganda by 50%. That’s right, the animal they slaughtered was one of only two left in the country. The situation is similar in Chad, Ethiopia, Somalia, Zaire and Angola. In Tanzania 90% of the rhino population was wiped out in the 10 years between 1970 and 1980.

What happened?

I

Poachers killed them. Why? Several reasons. First the obvious – there is a market for rhino horn. But in the East there has been a demand for rhino horn for thousands of years. Why was such a huge number killed so quickly? The magnitude of slaughter coincides with the chaos during this period in Central and East Africa. Civil wars in Chad, Ethiopia, Somalia, Zaire and Angola left the countries a mess. In Uganda, Idi Amin killed tens of thousands of people and the economy was in ruin. The ordinary people were frightened, hungry and had little or no work. The average wage in any of these countries during this time was about US$100 per year. For a couple of hours of grisly work, a poacher could earn about US$1400 for a six pound (2.7 kg) horn. So, in a few hours poachers could make as much money as they could in 14 years, and that’s only for one horn! In one night they may be able to kill several animals. (Considering the human life expectancy in these countries, a man of 40 could not only retire from the income of one horn, but he could leave a little something for his kids.)

But isn’t killing a rhinoceros kind of a dangerous business? Well, it used to be. Five or six people walking through the bush at night with a torch and bows and arrows had less chance of returning with a horn than they did of becoming a trophy on a rhino’s wall. But that was in the old days. The civil strife in these countries brought in thousands of automatic weapons which desperate people

114 “W HAT H APPENED

TO THE

R HINOS ?”

could get hold of. Once they got their hands on the machine guns, the “high-tech” poachers had an overwhelming advantage.

In countries such as Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, where the societies were more stable, the major reason for the slaughter was, again, economic. Although less dramatic than the example above, a Tanzanian was able to make as much money in one night as he could working 6 days a week for five or six years.

Considering the number of rhinos killed, the increase in supply must have meant that the price of horn went down, right? Wrong. Between 1974 and 1979 the wholesale price of a kilo (2.2 lbs.) of rhino horn went from US$35 to US$500, an increase of almost 1,500%.

The people in the East have been known to use rhinoceros horn as a medicine for centuries. Had the demand there increased? Dr. Martin would find out. He traveled to China, Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Singapore, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, Korea and the Philippines in 115 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

The Rhino

How did this happen? In the March 1984 issue of National Geographic magazine, Dr. Esmond Bradley Martin wrote a fascinating article on the subject. He found that the only significant demand for rhino horn in Africa was in the Zulu medicine shops in South Africa. “The Zulus ...would buy a little powdered rhino horn to mix with dried lice, which they swallowed to treat jaundice.”, writes Dr. Martin. A somewhat less scientific, but equally important use of rhino horn is recommended by Mr. Petros Rabakela, owner of a “muti” (medicine) shop in Johannesburg. Mr. Rabekla produces a rhino elixir to “...rub on the eyebrows to attract women.” Actually, the Zulus had more use for rhino hide than they did the horn.

For about US$5, they could buy an inch square of hide, which they would chew to stop a bloody nose or fix a snake bite. If they had any hide left over, they would always burn a piece in their home to ward off evil spirits.

Dr. Martin estimated that about 10% of rhino horn is used in Africa for “curative” purposes. Demand for Zulu medicine, however, had not increased substantially and this could not be the cause of the enormous price increase. In fact, modern education had actually helped reduce the demand for this type of “medicine” somewhat.

search of the answer. Dr. Martin interviewed more than 400 shop owners, wholesalers and consumers, and found that the market was steady, and there had been no sudden increase in demand. In total, according to Dr. Martin’s findings, approximately 50% of all rhino horn was being sold in eastern Asia.What is rhino horn medicine used for? In Asia, it is most widely used as a febrifuge – a fever reducing agent. But, as we could see from the examples in South Africa, people use it to cure all kinds of problems. Perhaps the strangest use of rhino medicine that Dr. Martin found was in India. People would purchase baby rhino urine, and drink it to cure sore throats. Yuck! What about honey, lemon and whiskey? The Calcutta Zoo earned US$750 in one year from the sale of rhino urine. (Well, at least they didn’t have to kill the animal.)

What about the use of rhino horn as an aphrodisiac? In his travels to 15 countries in Africa and Asia, Dr. Martin found only a few shops in western India that sold rhino horn as a cure for impotence. It may be of interest to know that Dr. Martin found plenty of other animal parts being sold as aphrodisiacs: dried lizards, monkey brains, sparrow tongues, deer tails, rabbit hair, and tiger penises – but no rhino horn. After 18 months of work, hundreds of interviews and visits to dozens of shops, Dr. Martin’s conclusion was that the people in the Far East who purchase rhino horn do so for many reasons, but not for use as an aphrodisiac. End of myth.

Okay, so we’ve resolved that age-old issue, but we haven’t answered the original question: What happened to all that rhino horn? Somewhere in his quest, Dr. Martin had an epiphany: “Look for a traditionally oriented people who have suddenly become rich,” he thought. For the next few months, Dr. Martin went through rhino horn statistics from the days when this trade was legal. He was looking for someplace bordering the Indian Ocean where the people had recently become rich, perhaps from the discovery of oil. In his research, he found that the port of Aden (Southern Yemen) used to import a disproportionate amount of horn. But that was a long time ago, and now Southern Yemen is poor. Dr. Martin then took a look at North Yemen. This country had no oil, but in the 1970’s after years of isolation, they had opened up to 116 “W HAT H APPENED

TO THE

R HINOS ?”

the world both socially and economically. Furthermore, North Yemen was right next door to Saudi Arabia and, of course, the oil. Dr. Martin had to check it out.

While visiting the ‘suq’ (open marketplace) in Saana, the capital of North Yemen, Dr. Martin strolled by a cluster of jewelers making knives, an event that seems inconsequential, but it was here that he would find his answer. It seems that 80% of Yemeni men wear daggers as part of their wardrobe. What material do they use to make the handles? Rhino horn. After almost two years of searching Dr. Martin had his story. North Yemen used to be one of the poorest countries on earth. During that time only the rich could afford daggers and only the richest of the rich could afford daggers made with rhino horn handles. Beginning in the 1970’s, the Yemeni men began working in the oil fields in Saudi Arabia where they were employed on construction projects which paid very high salaries. In fact, the cash flow into North Yemen in 1978 was about US$3 million per day. With this new-found wealth, the lower classes could now afford a dagger, and better yet (from their perspective) a dagger with a rhino horn handle. Dr. Martin’s conclusion was that the increased demand for rhino horn and the resulting increase in price of rhino horn was the direct result of this phenomenon.

What’s our hero been up to lately? Here is the latest news from Dr. Martin:

Will the rhinos survive? Let’s check back with Dr. Martin in about 10 years.

117 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

The Rhino

“I have just returned from a trip to Asia, where I tried to get wholesalers and retailers to substitute water buffalo hide for rhino hide (they are used for the same medicinal purposes), and saiga antelope horn for rhino horn. And I would urge anthropologists to go to North Yemen to take on a study of how to convince the Yemenis to use another material for their dagger handles.”

118 S WAHILI

Travel Info P 50 About Kenya P 76

About Kenya

On Safari P 94

On Safari

Big Five 102 The Rhino P 114

What Happened to the Rhinos?

P

The Big Five Plus Three

Swahili P 120

Swahili

Reading P 127

Reading

Itinerary 4

Travel Info

P

Itinerary

Swahili he Swahili language is an intermixing of Bantu, Arabic and Persian which evolved in the 8th century along the Kenyan coast. The word itself comes from the Arabic “sahil,” meaning “coast.” Today Swahili is spoken by about one-seventh of the world’s population and is the common language in Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi, Malawi, Zambia, Somalia, Sudan and Oman on the Persian Gulf.

Originally Swahili was written in Arabic, but when the English missionaries arrived, they transliterated the words into the Roman alphabet. As a result, English speaking people find the language very easy to read and relatively simple to pronounce. All of the consonants are usually pronounced as they are in English: F is pronounced as in “fat,” never as in “of ”; G as in “got,” never as in “ginger”; S as in “sin,” never as in “is.”

T

The pronunciation of Swahili vowels is as follows: a as the “a” in “father” e as the “a” in “say” i as the “ee” in “bee” o as the “o” in “hoe” u as the “oo” in “too” Double vowels, or any two vowels together, are pronounced as two separate syllables. So the word “saa” which means time/hour, is pronounced “sa-a,” and “yai” which means egg is pronounced “ya-i.”In Swahili the accent is always on the next to last syllable.

Some Useful Words & Phrases Hello Welcome Good Morning Good Afternoon Good Evening Good Night.

How are you?

I’m fine, thanks.

And you?

Jambo Karibu Habari za asubuhi Habari za alasiri Habari za jioni Lala salama.

Habari?

Mzuri.

Na were je?

120 S WAHILI

How’s life?

Fine.

Goodbye.

See you later.

Please.

Thank you.

Thanks very much.

Excuse me.

What a nice day.

It’s urgent.

Here it is.

Here they are.

It is...

It isn’t... beautiful ugly big small cheap expensive good bad hot cold early late right wrong

Habari ya maisha?

Nzuri (or Salama).

Kwaheri.

Tutaonana baadaye.

Tafadhali.

Asante.

Asante Sana.

Noamba kupita tafadhali.

Leo kuzuri.

Haraka.

Hii hapa.

Hizi hapa.

Ni...

Ni...? maridadi mbaya kubwa ndogo rahisi ghali nzuri mbaya joto baridi mapema chelewa sawa si sawa

Questions Wapi?

Vipi?

Ngapi?

Lini?

Nini?

Kwa nini?

Iko wapi...?

Ziko wapi...?

Wapi naweza kupata...?

Swahili

Where?

How? How much/many?

When?

What?

Why? Where is...?

Where are...?

Where can I get...?

121 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Where’s the hotel?

Can I have...?

Do you have...?

Do you want...?

What’s your name?

I beg your pardon?

Wapi hoteli?

Naweza kupata...?

Una? Unataka...?

Unaitwa nani?

Samahani?

People I we you you (pl.) he/she they man woman husband wife father mother son daughter friend mister

mimi sisi wewe ninyi yeye wao mwamamume mwanamke mume mke baba mama mwana binti rafiki bwana or, mzee (pronounced mim-zay)

I...

I am hungry.

I am thirsty.

I am tired.

I am looking for...

I am lost.

I am from...

I want...

I understand.

I don’t understand.

I’d like a cold beer.

It’s urgent!

Nina njaa.

Nina kiu.

Nimechoka.

Ninatafuta...

Nimepotea.

Natoki Nataka...

Nafahamu.

Sifahamu.

Tafadhali natake bia baridi.

Haraka!

122 S WAHILI

Other Common Words... a lot beer bread butter Cheers! coffee cold day eat food good hot ice milk mineral water money no shop sleep small sweet tea today toilet tomorrow tonight want water wine yes yesterday

mingi bia (pombe) mkate siagi Karibu kahawa baridi siku kula chakula mwema moto barafu maziwa maji safi ya kunywa fedha hapana duka lala kidogo tamu chai leo choo kesho usiku taka maji or mai divai (mvinyo) ndiyo jana

one two three four five

Swahili

Numbers moja mbili tatu nne tano

123 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve thirteen fourteen fifteen sixteen seventeen eighteen nineteen twenty twenty-one twenty-two and upthirty thirty-one and upforty fifty sixty seventy eighty ninety one hundred one hundred-one one hundred ten one hundred twenty two hundred three hundred five hundred one thousand 1997

sita saba nane tisa kumi kumi na moja kumi na mbili kumi na tatu kumi na nne kumi na tano kumi na sita kumi na saba kumi na nane kumi na tisa ishirini ishirini na moja follow the same formula for the teens thalathini follow the same formula up to 99 arbaini hamsini sitini sabiini thamanini tisiini mia mia na moja mia na kumi mia na ishirini mia mbili mia tatu mia tano elfu moja mwakak (year) tisiini na saba

Days of the Week Monday Tuesday Wednesday

Jamatatu Jumanne Jumatano

124 S WAHILI

Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Alhamisi Ijumaa Jumamosi Jumapili

Safari Animals nyati tembo mbwa mwitu nyani komba duma fungo mbega mamba mwewe pofu korongo twiga swala granti kongoni kiboko fisi swala pala bweha chui simba kicheche tumbili choroa mbuni kifaru mondo wala tomi nyamera gushu ngiri kuru nyumbu punda milia

Swahili

African Buffalo African Elephant African Hunting Dog Baboon Bushbaby Cheetah Civet Colobus Monkey Crocodile Eagle Eland Flamingo Giraffe Grant’s Gazelle Hartebeest Hippopotamus Hyena Impala Jackal Leopard Lion Mongoose Monkey Oryx Ostrich Rhinoceros Serval Cat Thomson’s Gazelle Topi Vulture Wart Hog Waterbuck Wildebeest Zebra

125 K ENYA S AFARI 2002

126 S WAHILI

Reading “As the Spanish proverb says: ‘He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies, must carry the wealth of the Indies with him.’ So it is in traveling; a man must carry knowledge with him, if he would bring home knowledge.”

— Dr. Samuel Johnson, 17 April 1788

Novels and Diaries Born Free, by Joy Adamson (Pantheon, 1960) – a book (and later a film) about lions raised by the author and returned to the wild.

Out of Africa, by Isak Dinesen, a.k.a. Karen Blixen, (Random Books) – the life and times of a female in Kenya during the early 1900’s. Made into a film and a great video to rent in preparation for your trip.

Elephants Have the Right of Way and There’s a Rhino in the Rose Bed, Mother, both by Betty and Jock Leslie-Melville (Doubleday) – two “easy reads” by a couple who organize their own safaris.

Tourist in Africa, by Evelyn Waugh (Greenwood) – a wellwritten diary of a two month trip to East Africa in 1960.

The Snows of Kilimanjaro, and Other Stories, by Ernest Hemingway (Scribner) – great stories by one of the great storytellers of all time.

Something of Value, by Robert Ruark (Doubleday, 1955) – historical novel about the lives of two boys, one black and the other white, set at the beginning of the Mau Mau uprising.

On Safari, by Martin Johnson (New York, 1928) The Tsavo Story, by D. Sheldrick (London, 1973) What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by John Hanning Speke (London) How I Found Livingstone in Central Africa, by Henry M. Stanley (New York) Through Masailand, by Joseph Thomson (London)

K ENYA S AFARI 2002

Reading

127

Guide Books Insight Guide Kenya, by Deborah Appleton et al (APA Publications) – perhaps the best one-volume guide book. Great photos and background stories. (Health information in the 1993 edition is not current.)

East Africa, by Geoff Crowther and Hugh Finlay (Lonely Planet Publications) – in-depth guide to East Africa.

National Parks of East Africa, by J.G. Williams (London, 1967) Guide to East Africa, by N. Casimati (London, 1987) “They’re Killing Off the Rhino”, by E.B. Martin, National Geographic, March 1984

History The Prehistory of Africa, by Clark J. Desmond (London, 1970) The Wake of da Gama, by G. Hamilton (London, 1951) The Portuguese Period in East Africa, by Justis Strandes (Nairobi, 1977 – translated from German) Permanent Way: The Story of the Kenya and Uganda Railway, by J.F. Hill (Nairobi) Africa, Its People and History, by G.P. Murdock (New York, 1959) The Man-Eaters of Tsavo, by P.H. Patterson (London) A Simple History of East Africa, by H. Brittain and P.J.G. Ripley (London, 1963)

Anthropology Leakey’s Luck: The Life of Seymour Bazett Leakey, by Sonia Cole (London, 1975) Peoples and Cultures of Kenya, by C.Salvador and A. Fedders (Nairobi, 1989) Unveiling Man’s Origins, by L.S.B. Leakey and W.M. Goodall (London, 1969)

Politics Vanishing Africa, by R. Mirella (London, 1977) Not Yet Uhuru, by Oginga Odinga (Nairobi, 1981) The Africa Review, Annual Report on African Countries (NTC Publishing, London)

128 R EADING