Small City Food & Drink | Issue 5 | July to September 2017

RECIPES, PRODUCERS, EATERIES

JUL-SEP 2017

E FRASE E TAKE

PLE

ONE

SCONES ON THE LAWN

THROW ONE ON THE BBQ

EATING ALFRESCO STYLE

The talented cooks and gardeners from Scone Palace whip up a foodie feast fit for a newly crowned king!

Forget burnt sausages and bland burgers, we’ve brought you some tasty options for quality barbeque grub.

When the sun shines, there’s no better place to eat than the glorious outdoors of Perth City Centre.

www.gillmurrayphotography.com facebook.com/gillmurrayphotography Instagram: @gmmphotography Twitter: @gmmphotography

Gill Murray Photography and Styling is at the heart of Small City Recipes.

Each week, Gill creates, styles and photographs her original images for our popular recipe column on our website, posted every Thursday. Using local, seasonal produce - often from her own greenhouse - Gill’s passion is to inspire us to pull out the pans and get cooking.

Many thanks to our advertisers who make this magazine possible.

To advertise with us or to become a free stockist please contact rhona@theredstringagency.co.uk.

Editor - Nicola Martin // Design & Layout - Cain Martin // Food Photography - Gill Murray This magazine is produced by The Red String Agency under their online magazine brand www.SmallCityBigPersonality.co.uk Š The Red String Agency, 8 Atholl Crescent, Perth, PH1 5NG, 01738 636888 All details correct at time of printing

ISSUE 5 WHAT’S

#SmallCityRecipes

INSIDE

We welcomed in the warmer weather (it was here at time of going to press!) with a rather splendid barbie in Gill’s back garden. RG was on cooking duties, Gill was snapping away and the rest of us simply kicked back and enjoyed the sun on our face and the wine in our glass.

Page 6

Strawberry Gazpacho

A Perthshire twist on the Spanish Classic

Of course, we rounded off the night with punnets of local Perthshire strawberries, some of Gill’s amazing Pimms Ice Lollies and real fruit milkshakes for the kids. So good were these fruity treats that we decided there and then they had to make the cut!

Find them on page 10.

As well as berries galore we’ve been busy out and about catching up with some of the area’s most inspirational foodies. Praveen Kumar, Jim Fairlie and Karen Arnot all invited us in to find out more about their fantastic foodie businesses.

Page 13

The Venue Venison Burger A healthy treat for summer

Enjoy your summer. Please do send us your foodie pics to let us know what you’re cooking up here in Perthshire.

Much Love, Nicki and Gill

Page 16

Perthshire Summer Salad

xx

With poached eggs and crispy bacon

Great Perthshire Picnic 2017

A month-long food and drink festival for Perthshire, throughout Perthshire...

and YOU’RE invited!

Get involved today!

www.greatperthshirepicnic.co.uk

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‘Mon the Berries

Nicola Martin catches up with farmer Karen Arnot and field manager Alex for a blether about the berries.

Photography by Cain Martin

e arrive at Mains of Errol Farm just outside Perth on a sunny Sunday morning in June.

The sky is blue, the countryside is lush and green, and the thick smell of strawberries, clover and buttercups hangs like a sweet fragrance in the air.

wife Karen, son Jamie, and a fulltime staff of six headed by Manager, Gatis. Over the summer months their workforce swells to around two hundred seasonal pickers who travel from across Europe to set up temporary home in the berry fields of Perthshire.

It may be the traditional day of rest but on a seasonal berry farm, picking waits for no-one and between pack house and fields there is the gentle hum of busy people going about their business.

Mains of Errol stretches nearly 370 acres across the Carse of Gowrie, and has been in the Glen family for three generations; but it wasn’t until David Arnot took over from his step-dad Alan in 1999, that it moved into strawberries. Quickly establishing themselves as one of the area’s most prominent producers, Mains of Errol is an integral part of the Angus Soft Fruit Growers co-operative who supply Tesco, Morrisons, Sainsburys, Lidl, Aldi, the Co-op and Iceland. As well as picking and packing their own fruits, they also pack for three other growers.

W Glen & Son and Smartpack are now run by the late David Arnot’s 4

K: “We’re really fortunate at The Mains; Gatis and his team run a slick operation. My time is mostly spent in the office - paperwork is never ending. There are multiple audits a year now so making sure that side of the business is on track is really vital. Without a good team who know what they’re doing, we’d be lost.

The vast majority of our pickers come through our own website and over 30% are returning

workers every year. It means we don’t have agency fees and we know that the people who are coming are reliable and loyal. It makes a big difference.”

The pickers stay in the static caravan park which enjoys unrivalled views across the Carse of Gowrie valley and comes complete with recreational barn, pool table, gym and space for dancing. There’s a volleyball tournament going on at the moment, with a beach like court built by the side of the homes.

The season starts in early May and nowadays, thanks to polytunnels and smarter farming, runs until mid-October. The operation though, is year round, with a barley and wheat harvest in September and that core staff of six led by Gatis and Alex the field manager, tiding, mending, planting and trimming back throughout the winter months and into spring.

They also rent land for pea and potato crops to local farmers.

The strawberries at Mains of Errol are grown in polytunnels on tabletops, which, as anyone who spent a day at the berries can imagine, makes the picking far easier and much quicker!

Pickers work from as early as four in the morning - picking the fruit

during the cooler hours prevents any damage to the berries. When we arrive they’re almost halfway through their working day and many of the tunnels have been picked clean, expert hands quickly selecting the best of the crop for that day’s orders.

Packed into trays and set into cool, covered ‘trains’ ready to be transported to the packhouse just a few hundred meters away, the organised scene is a far cry from the chaos of the berry dreels I remember from the late seventies and early eighties. Although when I bite into one of the soft, warm strawberries I’ve pinched from the end of a tunnel, the juice runs down my chin and stains my t-shirt just like it always did. I’m not sure if it’s the berry or the nostalgia that fills me with joy but either way, these are amongst the best I’ve ever tasted.

K: “It’s completely different!

My granny and grandad had a raspberry farm near Blairgowrie when I was growing up and we’d all be sent to help pick. Along with the bus-loads of people who’d arrive every day, my sisters, cousins and I would be covered in scratches for the whole summer.

Everything now is so closely monitored. Nothing is allowed in the tunnels in case a water bottle top or mobile phone ends up in a punnet. It has happened – not from here though!

When Dave and I first started we had this guy who came every year - we nicknamed him Roman Pantman - he’d strip down to a pair of trunks and pick like a machine. Every day, for the whole season – he was incredible. The risk assessment doesn’t really allow for that anymore! Everyone works on a six day rota, is paid minimum wage with bonuses and

will either pick early morning or do a packhouse shift.”

The packhouse is just a short walk from the tunnels and is a mesmerising operation, producing between 70,000 and 100,000 punnets of Grade 1 berries each and every day.

“The three growers we pack for – Gus Porter, Peter Arbuckle and Doulas Neill – usually deliver a couple of times a day in these big chilled trailers, we ensure each individual punnet is labelled with full provenance including the specific name of the farmer who grew them.”

Karen is the only female farmer in the co-operative at the moment, and although not the path she set out to follow, she’s now a mine of information on legislation, HR, field yield and the subtle differences in flavours and colour that come with each variety.

“I never thought I’d marry a farmer let alone end up being one! Still, I feel very fortunate to be here, living in such a beautiful place, surrounded by amazing people who help me make all of this happen. I know our product is really good and I know that doesn’t happen by accident.

Everything from choosing the right field, to buying in enough bees go into creating our perfect Perthshire berry.”

Buy Mains Of Errol Berries Visit The Fruit Shack at Mains of Errol farm, open seven days a week until 7pm. This wee shed operates on an honesty box system so do take change. You can also pop into Provender Brown on George Street who stock Grade 1 Mains of Errol berries all summer long!

About the berries...

It’s not often you get to boast that your product is world-class - and for the statement to be true - but Perthshire Berries are arguably right up there as the foodie equivalent of a seven-star hotel. Karen is firm in her belief that it is our strange micro-climate that creates the perfect growing environment – not too hot, not too cold and with the just right balance of daylight hours, sun and rain. Whatever the alchemy involved, the strawberries grown down in the Carse of Gowrie at mains of Errol Farm are the sweetest, juiciest examples of what makes for a perfect berry.

Mains of Errol grows Sonata and Elsanta as their main crops, but this year for the first time, they’re trialling Malling Centenary, Ava Joy and Ava Surprise which you can buy now from the Fruit Shack, their honesty box shed on the farm. Visit smallcitybigpersonality.co.uk and go to the Food & Drink section for our taste test challenge!

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STRAWBERRY GAZPACHOÂ This super cool twist on the traditional Spanish gazpacho combines sweet and savoury flavours for a fresh, seasonal treat.

Ingredients 130ml extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves of garlic 2 slices of whole grain bread 2 sprigs of thyme 900g strawberries 2 cucumbers 1 red pepper 1 green pepper 6 tbsp tomato juice 3 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 1/2 tsp salt Tabasco sauce (optional) Method Heat a small saute pan over a medium heat. Add olive and crushed garlic to the pan. Cut the bread into cubes and add when the garlic begins to sizzle. Toss occasionally until the bread starts to colour, then add the thyme and continue to toss until the bread is golden brown. Transfer the bread cubes to a large bowl and discard the garlic and thyme.

Chop the strawberries, cucumbers and peppers, crush the remaining garlic, and add to a bowl with olive oil, tomato juice, vinegar and salt.

Stir and cover tightly with cling film.

Marinate at room temperature for between 3-6 hours.

Puree the ingredients and their juices with a blender on a high speed until you get a smooth consistency. Chill in the fridge until very cold.

Taste and season as necessary and if you wish you can add a few dashes of Tabasco sauce. Serve with a basil leaf and a swirl of olive oil.

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W

&

WORKDAYS WEEKENDS Life is sweet when you make jam for a living!

Perthshire Preserves create award-winning jams,jellies, marmalades and chutneys using the very best in local, seasonal ingredients.

Owned by Iain Mackenzie and Kate Thornhill, customers include Gleneagles Hotel, a wide range of local B&B’s, and shops from Germany to Canada. We caught up with the busy pair to find out more about their days in the kitchen, weekends at the markets and what they like to get up to in their precious time off.

What does a typical day at work look like for you?

We start work early in the morning and work until we have finished that day’s tasks (which we plan on a Sunday evening). On a jam day, we sort out which fruit we are going to use. We only use Scottish berries with most of them coming from Perthshire and these days they come frozen which we find makes better jam.

We hand fill the jars and once the batch has cooled down we label it and it’s ready for the next market or for delivery. We supply guest houses, B&B’s, Gleneagles Hotel, farm shops and delis. We also provide our jams to shops in Germany and Canada!

What signals the start of your weekend / days off?

What are days off? At the weekends, you will find Perthshire Preserves at Perth Farmers Market (1st Saturday), Aberfeldy Market (1st Sunday – through the summer), Kenmore Pop-up Market (2nd Saturday through the summer) Logierait (4th Sunday) and every Sunday we have a stall at Stockbridge Market, Edinburgh!

What might people be surprised to know about you?

We were both Hotel Managers – Iain at sea for 20 years with Cunard Line and myself in a number of hotels in England and latterly in Scotland.

Top of your bucket list?

We want to head to South America and visit Chile, and also to cycle the length of the British Isles. Kate wants to climb the highest mountain in Portugal, Mount Pico, which is actually in the Azores.

Worst job you’ve ever had?

Iain’s Assistant Personnel Manager in a five-star Scottish Hotel!

Who or what inspires you?

My hero was Nelson Mandela, who I met on the QE2 when he sailed from Durban to Cape Town. I also admire Neil Armstrong, who has been to a very special place and returned safely.

Tell us about the weekend you’d love to live again?

The time we went to Tobago in the Caribbean and just chilled out after a long year making jam! We did nothing except drink rum and watch the sun go down each evening, with the waves lapping on to the beach.

What’s the best part about your job?

Getting to meet our lovely customers is great and many of them have become friends over the years.

What’s in the perfect day off breakfast?

Kate’s favourite is warm croissants and a lovely berry jam or delicious marmalade, served with coffee and some fresh fruit. Mine is Huevos Rancheros – a special Breakfast fit for a King.

The best things in life are...?

Making other people happy, watching nature close up and being with our kids!

Visit the Perthshire Preserves website to find out more about their artisan jams, chutneys and marmalades: www.perthshirepreserves.co.uk promotional feature

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ON

SCONES

© Kelly McIntyre Photography

Here in Perthshire, we tend to rhyme with ‘gone’, unless of course we’re talking about our majestic palace or bonny wee village on the east side. The confusion this brings to American tourists desperate to find the crowning place of Scottish Kings knows no bounds and is probably why many believe that scones were first baked in the kitchens of our local palace. This may or may not be true - the first known print reference to scones, in 1513, is from a Scottish poet but whether he was connected to Perthshire, no one knows.

What we do know, is that Scone Palace has embraced the mantle of ‘creators’ and enjoying a scone at Scone is a must-do activity on the itinerary of many a tourist.

Baked in the palace kitchens, and made fresh every day, you’ll find the traditional plain variety of old sitting alongside an abundance of flavours. Popular choices include fruit, cherry, and cheese, but you will also find more ambitious creations including white chocolate or blueberry – see recipe opposite.

Scones aren’t the only treat to have received the royal treatment at Scone; the palace cooks work tirelessly to ensure everything in their self-service café is homemade, fresh and tasty. They work closely with the gardeners, using the fresh fruit, veg and herbs to create tasty soups, fresh salads and delicious sides. The kitchen garden was reinstated in 2014 and ever since then the teams have strived to become self-sufficient – although 8

promotional feature

in summer they do need the back up of Blairgowire’s berries to deal with demand!

This close working partnership between kitchen and garden is no accident; at the start of each year the decision is made on what should be grown and the season’s menu and recipes are built around this. The provenance is second to none - they could tell you the name of the guy who plants the seeds, to grow the lettuce, for the salad you’re eating!

In summer the jam sold in the café and shop is made to Lady Mansfield’s own recipe, while in winter the cooks keep themselves

busy making the chutney and preserves that will be used all summer long. This commitment to a full-circle eco-story has been driven by Lady Mansfield and Brian Cunningham, the head gardener and a guest presenter on Beechgrove Garden. There is passion at the heart of this; for the ingredients that are grown, the food that is made and the environment in which it is enjoyed.

As for that headline, I have to say, I’m a great believer in language being fluid – there is no right and wrong. There’s only mouthwatering home-baking, preferably served warm and heaped high with butter and jam.

Words by Nicola Martin

LAWN

THE

here was a wonderful article published by The Guardian recently which debated the correct pronunciation of scone.

“Should it rhyme with gone or cone?” asked the headline.

The debate that followed was almost as impassioned as a Brexit argument, with class division and geographical boundaries both playing their part!

R ECIPE

BLUEBERRY SCONES The Old Kitchen Coffee Shop at Scone Palace is famous for its tasty scones, homemade jams and delicious condiments.

With the homemade scones boasting an unrivalled reputation, we couldn’t believe our luck when they offered to share their secret recipe with us!

Ingredients

VISIT: The 2017 season runs 1st April - 31st October Throughout April and October their opening times are 10am-4pm and during May - September the gates open at 9.30am with last admission 5pm.

Grounds close at 5.45pm.

For a list of summer events please visit: www.scone-palace.co.uk

220g white self-raising flour 50g butter at room temperature 20g white caster sugar 150ml full-fat milk A handful of small blueberries 1 free-range egg Method Heat your oven to 210°C and lightly grease a baking tray/sheet.

Mix the butter and flour in a large bowl and add the blueberries.

Add 2/3 of your milk and mix very gently with a wooden spoon.

You’re looking to work the dough as little as possible, which will ensure light and fluffy scones.

If the mix looks too dry, add some more milk – you want a mixture that doesn’t stick to the sides of the bowl but forms a nice floury lump in the middle.

Tip your scone mixture onto a floured worktop and very lightly knead together for a few seconds into a ball. Press down or use a rolling pin gently till you reach a consistent thickness of 4cm.

Using a round cutter, cut as many circles from the dough as you can.

Gather up the scraps and bring together into another round that you can cut more scones from – placing the ones you’ve already cut onto your baking tray a good few centimetres apart.

Brush the tops of your scones with the egg. Try not to let the egg mixture run down the sides of your scones; it’ll seal the edges and stop them rising all the way round, meaning you’ll get a wonky looking scone!

Bake for about 12–15 minutes.

To test if they’re done, choose the most misshapen scone you have on your tray, remove it from the oven and cut open to check whether it’s cooked through.

Go to smallcitybigpersonality.co.uk to find out more about the new walled garden and orchard projects planned for Scone Palace 2018.

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STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE & PIMMS ICE LOLLIES

PIMMS LOLLIES

Call us biased but we’re going to come right out and say there’s no better berry than a Perthshire strawberry. From May through to September our single aim is to get their sweet, juicy goodness into as many dishes as we possibly can.

Ingredients

Both of these recipes are super simple and perfect for garden parties, BBQs or just as a midday treat. Strawberry milkshakes made with real fruit are always a hit with the kids and Gill’s Pimms Ice Lollies are an indulgence every grown-up will enjoy. Just make sure you don’t mix them up!

60ml Strawberry Pimms 250ml lemonade 300g strawberries 3 baby cucumbers Handful of fresh mint leaves Method In a large jug, mix together the Pimms and the lemonade.

Slice the strawberries and cucumbers, and divide into lolly moulds along with the mint.

Top each lolly mould evenly with the Pimms and lemonade mixture then insert the sticks. Freeze for a minimum of 4 hours.

STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE Ingredients 240g strawberries 1tsp vanilla essence 300ml milk 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream Method Blend half of the strawberries with the vanilla essence until smooth.

Divide this between 2 glasses.

Blend the milk and ice cream until smooth and then pour over the strawberry mixture.

Top with a sliced strawberry and serve!

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Eating Al Fresco.

ating outdoors has to be one of life’s simplest pleasures; the sun warm on your face, a slight breeze fluttering at the edges of your napkin and small dogs dreaming happily in the cool shade of the table top.

Perhaps it’s because the opportunity comes but once a year, but nothing says summer has landed like tables full of paleskinned Scots, shades adorning every face and shoulders colouring pink, red and frecklebrown with every passing hour.

Bright, bold and beautiful, beer gardens and outdoor cafés always seem to be filled with smiles, laughs and the glorious sound of rosé wine glasses and beer bottles clinking in the sunshine. There’s good reason for this – quite apart from the fact that ‘getting your legs out’ is a celebration in itself, for too many of us winter means hibernating indoors. Combined with short daylight hours and layers of clothing, winter leaves us with a lack of fresh air and months without feeling the warm sun on our skin.

And then BOOM! The sun arrives, the café quarter dusts off its outdoor tables and the mood of an 12 promotional feature

entire city lifts in direct proportion to the number of coats, jumpers and gilets that become relegated to the back of the wardrobe. That big, healthy dose of Vitamin D is injected into the population en masse and our al fresco dining happiness scenario takes hold. By the time you throw in the local ale, you’re half way to paradise and having yourself a proper summer knees up!

It’s not just the warmth that make us feel better; the long daylight hours stretch way past 5pm and we suddenly adopt the eating habits of our European cousins.

Sitting outside, chatting to strangers about how wonderful the weather is, we lose all track of time and will decide without thought to grab a quick bite at 8pm rather than go home to start cooking.

We’ll arrive for lunch and still find ourselves ordering trays of snacks at 6pm, gin cocktails flowing and fuelling the summer hunger.

This is our summer ritual; we come for the sunshine but we stay for the food. Because when it comes down to it, al fresco dining is ingrained right into our Scottish summer psyche alongside ‘taps aff’, swimming in lochs and scoffing down berries from just along the road.

Enjoy Perth City’s Great Outdoors: Parklands Hotel Terrace Open from early morning until evening, this gorgeous terrace boasts super-chic surroundings and stunning views over the South Inch. Stop for a coffee, try the tasty bistro menu or pull up a table and order an ice cold Inveralmond Ale straight from the tap.

Perth City Centre Café Quarter From Browns & Blacks at one end to Café Tabou at the other, you’ll be spoilt for choice as you soak up the atmosphere of Perth City’s Café Quarter on St John’s Place. Venues open early for breakfast, provide coffee and snacks all day long and serve food and drinks until late.

Pubs & Grub, Outdoors Make sure to venture into St John’s Street for lunch, gin or dinner at The Venue before wandering round to Perth’s iconic beer garden at The Twa Tams. We’re also big fans of The Ship Inn, The Half a Tanner and The Kirkside, all offering outdoor drinking and dining when the sun comes out to play!

Recipe

Horsecross Plaza Reminiscent of a cool European courtyard with its gorgeous new plaza, head to the top end of town where you’ll find Perth Concert Hall, Paco’s Restaurant and Kisa’s Café all serving up a great selection of coffees, drinks and meals from morning through to evening.

The Venue Venison Burger Ditch the beef, and go for local Perthshire venison with this tasty burger, brioche bun and red pepper jam recipe from The Venue in Perth’s St John Street. Leaner, greener, and a whole lot better for you, venison is a healthy alternative that doesn’t compromise on flavour.

VENISON BURGER

RED PEPPER JAM

1 kilo of venison mince 100g shallots 1 tsp English mustard 1 tsp tomato sauce Salt and pepper

1L Water 200ml white wine vinegar 100g caster sugar 5 red peppers 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise

Dice the shallots, fry in a pan slowly and then cool.

Finely dice the peppers and crush the cinnamon and star anise. Boil these for 5 minutes with vinegar, water and sugar.

Bind together the venison with the mustard, shallots and tomato sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Using 190gms of meat mixture for each burger, form into patties and grill to your liking.

Chill and then serve.

Feeling Adventurous?

Why not try making the handmade brioche bun? Check out the food & drink section on smallcitybigpersonality.co.uk for the full recipe.

Perth City Centre is one of only four Scottish cities to have achieved Purple Flag accreditation.

This prestigious award highlights a city’s commitment to providing a good night out with great bars and clubs, clean and safe venues, a variety of arts and cultural attractions and excellent transport links.

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Life Stories in Food: Barbeques

W

hen I was young, summer had never really officially started until my mum dug our wee tabletop BBQ out from the back of the shed and dusted off the winter cobwebs with an old tea-towel. I still remember when we bought it – it was such a thrill and in North Muirton in the early eighties, it felt decidedly exotic! Weren’t BBQs the reserve of the Home & Away kids?

A BBQ became code for adventure amongst my siblings and cousins; one of my favourite childhood memories is watching my Uncle George prodding at sausages with one hand, and doing his best to keep them dry under the golf umbrella he held in the other. With our day trip to Loch Tay abandoned due to rain, this was all done standing in his own back garden, a few steps from his cooker and the warmth of the kitchen.

It was 1983 so our standard BBQ fayre was sausages and burgers; however I do recall a particularly exhilarating episode of Blue Peter inspiring us to stuff a banana with chocolate buttons and wrap it in

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tinfoil. I’ve eaten that delicacy on every lochside in Perthshire, and I’m certain that if you handed it to me today I’d hear my Auntie Margaret’s voice echoing in my ear… “Careful now kids, it’s hot!”

I still love a barbie; the clunk of the charcoal as it tumbles from the bag into the steel drum, the muttered swearing as firelighters refuse to take hold, the match creeping ever closer to your fingers. And eventually that glorious first wave of smoke, wafting up into the air, the smell clinging to clothes and loudly announcing dinner’s imminent arrival.

These days we’re a bit more creative with the cooking and although I will always reach for the most burnt sausage in the pile – plenty of tomato ketchup please! – I also love a salmon steak coated in blackened spices or a halloumi kebab brushed with finely chopped coriander and sweet, nutty, rapeseed oil.

The table is strewn with bowls of freshly made salad smothered in lashings of lemony dressing, thick cut slices of mature cheddar piled high ready to transform your burger

into something magnificent, and dishes brimming with any number of relishes, sauces and mayo. There are plastic jugs of diluting juice for the kids and cool boxes loaded up with ice, beers and rose wine for the people in charge of the flames.

Like most foodie ceremonies – for a BBQ is surely a ceremony – everyone will have their own little rituals and customs. You might have a family marinade for the lamb chops, you may well insist on everyone bringing their own plate.

Me? I always make enough coleslaw and potato salad to feed a small army (a ritual passed on from my Mum!) and if you listen closely you will hear my Auntie Margaret’s words of warning as she hands out the hot, chocolatey bananas to the next generation of eager hands.

Our BBQ FOOD: Meat from D G Lindsay & Son in North Methven Street, Perth Fresh rolls from Murrays the Bakers in South Street, Perth Prosecco and wine from a selection at Provender Brown Delicatessen in George Street, Perth

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PERTHSHIRE SUMMER SALAD

Ingredients

Method

Blue skies and fresh salads - it must be summer and Perthshire’s abundant larder has everything you need for a delicious seasonal salad.

5 tbps olive oil 220g unsmoked bacon 1 garlic clove 1 small frisee lettuce 60g lambs lettuce 6 Perthshire quails eggs 2 shallots 75g croutons 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Crush the garlic and add to a frying pan with the bacon and 2 tbps olive oil, sizzling until crisp.

Usually the reserve of a cooked breakfast, there’s no better combo than crispy bacon and oozing eggs - it’s a match made in foodie heaven.

Alongside the crushed garlic and shallots, this flavour explosion will guarantee you never think of salad in the same the way again!

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To make the dressing, slice a shallot and mix with the red wine vinegar and mustard, adding the remaining oil gradually.

Bring a pan of water to the boil and poach the quails eggs in the water for 90 seconds.

Slice the remaining shallot and toss in a salad bowl with the lettuce, lardons, croutons and dressing. Top with the quails eggs and a twist of black pepper.

PLOUGHMAN’S PICKLE

Ingredients

Method

This sweet and spicy pickle is a staple for all cheese sarnie lovers but did you know it’s equally delicous slathered on top of a juicy burger, served straight from the barbeque?

1 carrot 4 garlic cloves 1 courgette 1 red pepper 1 onion 1 large apple 180g brown sugar 1 tbsp lemon juice 200ml malt vinegar 1 tsp ground allspice 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp salt

Chop the fruit and veg, and crush the garlic.

Combine all of the ingredients into one saucepan and bring them to the boil.

Give it a try - it’s super easy to make and we promise you’ll never want shop-bought again.

Simmer for an hour, stirring often until the mixture becomes thicker and looks like a chutney. Leave the mixture to cool, and transfer the pickle into sterilised jars. You should fill about three 8oz jars with the quantities we have used here.

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Top of the Curry Class. s a nation we love a cookery show; from the tension of a Masterchef final to a Great British Bake-Off soggy bottomed saga the drama of the kitchen has gripped us by the ironcast skillet. It’s little surprise then, that the rise of the celebrity chef, master baker and clean eating health nut has been even more spectacular than a Roux brother soufflé.

Words & Photos by Holly MacDonald

We arrive early for our Saturday morning session to find his daughter playing in her tree house and his home-grown mint sprouting up proudly in pots at the entrance to the building housing his newest ambition.

It’s a wonderfully heart-warming experience from the outset.

As we step inside, we’re greeted by the sight of eight clean and shiny work stations equipped with a two hob gas cooker, knives, tubs of chopped veg, Summer Of course, we’re no longer content with looking in; we Harvest Rapeseed Oil and all the spices you could want to experience the intoxicating flavour of foodie possibly need to cook up an Indian storm. At the theatre first hand. We want it back of the room, a long narrow to be our hands in the mixing dining table laid out with piping bowls, our knives chopping fresh hot tea and coffee and boxveg and our larger-than-life big fresh cook-school aprons, awaits personalities stirring, slicing today’s group of eager students. and rolling out their talents right there in front of us.

After a quick cuppa, a round of introductions and a warm Enter Praveen Kumar, owner and welcome from Praveen, we take chef at Tabla Indian Restaurant in our places at our shiny stations.

Perth city centre. Not only does We’re introduced to an array of he conjure up some of the best spices, each one with its own curry you’re ever likely to taste, story. We learn about the deft his journey is an epic tale of hands of the cinnamon growers adventure following a young boy who skilfully scrape the bark off clinging to an ambitious vision the trees, careful to ensure they from his small village in the South of India, to his own don’t go in too deep, “one tiny slip and the tree will hugely successful restaurant in Perth. die taking 100 years to grow back.” Then there’s the mushroom-like bulb that looks unlike anything I’ve ever Quite apart from his cooking skills, Praveen has an air seen and when eaten raw tastes so sour I fully expect of proper, old-fashioned manners and gentlemanly an oompa-loompa to come cartwheeling in alongside behaviour and you will always find him beaming with me - Willy Wonka has nothing on Prav’s marvellous infectious positivity. This likeability factor has helped concoctions! him grow a huge fanbase - including the whole Small City team – and so it was only a matter of time before The entire day follows the same vibe with each and his entrepreneurial mind took the leap from restaurant every one of us taken by the hand and led on this to cook school. And naturally, we signed up for the first fascinating journey of bright colours, aromatic smells available class as soon as we heard! and weird and wonderful ingredients. The spices we’re using come from his own family farm and as he chatters Being the family man that he is, it’s no surprise that about his recent holiday back home, we’re treated to a the cook school is set up in his own back garden. phone-video of the women from his village, working in 18

the heat of the Indian sun to hand-grind their crop into the powerful, punchy powders we’re stirring into our pots.

Other ingredients are locally sourced where possible with our lamb from D G Lindsays and the Scottish cod for the fish curry from George Campbell and Sons Fishmongers.

From the word go we’re busy. Kicking things off by making our own ginger paste - which we’ll discover is a key ingredient in most dishes – the morning vanishes in a sea of spices, veggies and meats. Most dishes require only one bowl, and we’re encouraged to get right in there with our hands, rubbing the colourful spice mix around chunks of lamb and into glistening white fish fillets. It truly is an experience for all the senses – including touch - so expect mucky hands and a filthy apron!

The day starts, breaks and finishes with the group around the table chatting as we tuck into the tasty end results of our hours spent at the stove. Digging into the poppadum’s, veggie pakora, spicy onions and fish curry we’d all cooked from scratch – a little from each person’s pot is added to a communal dish to create enough to share and ensure plenty to take home – the atmosphere is one of family with students, teacher and Adam our potwasher, all sitting together marvelling at the secret ingredient in spicy onions (you’ll never guess what it was and I’m not giving it away!).

Round two is a lamb bhuna, a tasty tarka potato recipe and sides of vegetable rice and chapattis. The smell of those rich lamb curries bubbling away in pots is intoxicating and I’m not sure if it’s this or a compliment on my bhuna from the man himself that has me beaming with satisfaction! (To be fair, a third possibility could be the Prosecco!).

The pride however, continues and my limited kitchen skills are transformed under Prav’s watchful eye. I go from a woman who has never cooked rice from scratch (micro rice is far too convenient) to the proud owner of a fluffy, aroma infused masterpiece. This wonderful feeling of culinary achievement grew even further when I became chapatti maker extraordinaire, replacing my rollingpin-in-a-play-doh-kitchen memory with one that saw me roll the perfect circle from my simple, rustic dough.

I can’t wait to show off my newly-acquired authentic Indian cooking skills. I just know that every time I eat a pakora I’m going to proudly point out that I can make them… from scratch.

I’ve certainly moved on from microwave rice preferring to make my own in an aromatic bath of spices – move over Uncle Ben, it’s Auntie Holly that the nieces and nephews are visiting for tea now!

Duration: 6 hours | Price: £99.95 Book at www.indiancookschool.com

The cost includes all ingredients, tuition and a takehome feast fit for a family! Prav also provides wine, prosecco and beer so leave the car at home!

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Pick up a piece of Perthshire Perthshire is home to a fabulous array of independent shops brimming full of tasty treats, ice-cold drinks and a delicious range of gorgeous home and garden accessories.

1

Inveralmond Ossian Ale £2.50 A full bodied fruity golden ale with nutty tones and a hoppy, zesty orange aroma.

Buy in: Provender Brown, 23 George Street, Perth

2

Pick Your Own Strawbs £4.50/kg Have a fun day out picking your own berries! Or buy some ready to go if you’re in a hurry.

Buy in: Broadslaps Fruit Farm, Dunning, Perthshire

3

Cha Cha Fukami Teapot £35 Japanese glass loose leaf Teapot.

Ideal for sipping green tea in the garden whilst reading haiku!

Buy in: The Bean Shop 67 George Street, Perth

4

Barbecook Major Barbeque £199 The unique QuickStart® system has an adjustable air supply for perfect circulation.

Buy in: Glendoick Garden Centre, Glendoick, Perth

5

Throw by Bronte Moon £70 Made in the UK with 100% pure new wool. Bold cerise and pastel pinks perfectly offset against camel and cream neutrals.

Buy in: Decorum, 22 Scott Street, Perth

6

The Perth Gift Card £5 - 5000!

An ideal pressie or souvenir for lovers of all things Perth, with over 80 quality retailers, visitor attractions, restaurants and bars all now accepting this fantastic little card.

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The lucky recipient can enjoy a perfectly mixed cocktail, treat themselves to a pampering or pick up the latest fashions; the choice is entirely theirs!

Buy in: Fun Junction on the Old High Street, Alba Plus on St John Street or online at:

perthcard.co.uk 20

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Eden Mill Gin Cocktails £3.50 Premixed 250ml cocktails, in four flavours, perfect for picnics and lazy nights in!

Buy in: Provender Brown, 23 George Street Perth.

Patterned Bowls £6 Each Part of a lovely a range of colourful, decorative ceramics including salad bowls and more.

Buy in: Precious Sparkle, 10 Charlotte Street, Perth Summer Harvest Chilli & Red Pepper Dressing 250ml £3.85 The perfect accompaniment with grilled fish or king prawns. As an appetiser, serve with fresh bread.

Buy in: Gloagburn Farm Shop, Provender Brown, Taste of Perthshire.

10

Strawberry Wine £7.50 Made from beautiful ripe local berries, picked just along the road from the winery in Errol.

Buy in: Cairn o’ Mohr Winery, Errol, Perthshire

11

Smoked Salmon 200g £9 Hand smoked on their premises in Perth using a family recipe over 145 years old.

Buy in: George Campbell & Sons Whitefriars Street, Perth

12

Strawberry Tart 65p Murrays use local strawberries, their own mouth-watering shortcrust pastry and then top the tarts with lovely, sweet piping jelly.

Buy in: Murrays Bakers, 114 South Street, Perth

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Fresh Perthshire Lamb £ varies Tender and full of flavour, Perthshire Lamb is world class.

Buy in: DG Lindsay & Son Butchers, 15 N Methven St, Perth

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© David Gillanders

Jim Fairlie The Kitchen Farmer Words by Nicola Martin

hink of any big festival or event running this summer and you will surely find Scottish, artisan food as part of the headline attractions.

Long gone are the days when queuing for half an hour resulted in a greasy fish supper or scabby-not-quite-meat burger.

Nowadays we want provenance, flavour and a real foodie treat as part of our event experience and organisers have had to listen up.

One man who knows only too well the importance of traceability and good food is local farmer, Jim Fairlie. Jim was brought up on a council estate in Perth, is a first generation, contract farmer and was the brains behind Scotland’s first farmers market in Perth some eighteen years ago. He is passionate, vocal and as many a councillor has found out, a force to be reckoned with when it comes to his beliefs.

Jim started working in farming back in early nineties but his love of animals had started young – there’s a whole blog out there somewhere on racing pigeons. It’s a well-known story now that Jim campaigned for and launched Perth 22

Farmers Market in 1999 while working as a shepherd at Glenearn Estate. Together with a voluntary board of directors from the local farming community he worked hard to establish it as the must-visit event on the first Saturday of every month.

But how did a wee laddie from Letham end up running a business that now sees him serve up his own top-notch, quality burgers to ravers, tennis fans and racing pundits across Scotland?

In 2007 Jim took on a contract farm agreement at Kindrum Park Farm on Mansfield Estates. Although the size and scope were very different from Glenearn, provenance remained at the heart of everything he did . This ongoing commitment to local produce would set in motion a series of events which would carve his unlikely career and business into what it is today.

Having supplied Scotland’s top chefs, markets and farm shops for a number of years, Jim and his wife Anne were becoming increasingly frustrated that one bad day at a market or a slow-paying restaurant could have a real knock-

on effect for both profit and cash flow.

Looking for new ideas, Jim recalled a bad experience involving a dodgy burger van at a U2 concert many years before.

At the time, it had sparked a comment from Anne which had lingered with both of them; “You’d think there would be a market for really good burgers at big events.”

The first outing with their ready-to-eat food was in 2009, at a Runrig concert at Scone Palace. Collaborating with other Perth Farmers Market regulars, the group had been tasked with serving up good, local produce to the masses who were due to ascend on Perthshire. Jim had sought out the help of local chef Graeme Pallister and the two worked together on a recipe for making a top-quality beef burger. To say they were sick of handpatting burgers by the end of it is an understatement, but they tasted bloody marvellous!

People loved them, but more importantly Jim and Anne were hooked on the high energy buzz of the festival and decided there and then that this would be the next logical route for their diversified farm business “There’s no doubt that first Runrig experience was frought with steep learning curves; we knew we had to improve systems to become more efficient but the principle of us serving great festival food was there. We’re a couple of determined buggers, my wife and I, so we quickly pinpointed where we could become better and set our sights on the ultimate in Festival Food - T in the Park.”

Realising that hand making burgers for a crowd of 85,000 people was not feasible, Jim and Graeme returned to the kitchen to develop a recipe that could be made in a regular burger press.

“That first T in the Park was without doubt the biggest learning experience we’ve had. Apart from the sheer volume, we were dealing with a large corporate event company and that came with its own challenges. We got there though and ended up doing seven years, adding to the menu with shepherds pie, soup and steak pies made with chunks of our own shoulder steak. People loved what we did – it was that simple.”

Cut to today. With their two daughters, Mhairi and Caitlin, both out making their way in the world, the idea to sell-up and travel did cross their minds.

“The girls had been a big part of our family venture and, at first, it just didn’t feel right without them. However, once we started weighing up options we realised we were looking at things the

Above: Jim working the field with his loyal sheep dogs

wrong way; and so instead of selling, we’ve rebranded as The Kitchen Farmer and ramped the whole thing up a notch!”

Jim still farms his own beef and lamb, commissioning Seriously Good Butchery to manufacture the beef and lamb burgers, and beef sausages. Together with the butchery owner, Vikki Banks, Jim has tweaked at hanging times, seasoning and size to get his products just the way he wants them. The Kitchen Farmer burgers are all meat, using prime cuts such as topside, silverside rump and even the sirloin.

So when they talk about a steak burger, that’s exactly what you get. Served in a fresh morning roll from Tower Bakery with salad and caramelised onions they are arguably one of the best products on the Scottish event scene today. Their pies are meaty, delicious mouthfuls of Jim’s own beef, and when the wind is howling round Perth Racecourse, I can promise this is the only thing you should think about eating!

The couple are particularly excited this year about their involvement with Farming Yesteryear at Scone Palace in September, when they will be responsible for the entire catering contract. This is a new development for them, but one they will approach with their trademark dedication to quality and service. From Jim’s farm to the sizzling hot plate, the big smiles as they greet you to food prepared with passion their ethos from day one remains at the heart of what they do today: “Food and farming are one in the same, treat both with equal respect and take pride in it all”

Meet The Kitchen Farmer You’ll find Jim and Anne at these great Perthshire events. To see them further afield keep an eye on their Facebook page.

Perth Racecourse Perth Show Craigie Golf Music Festival Great Perthshire Picnic Launch Farming Yesteryear Perth Racecourse Fair City Market Chocolate & Gin Festival St Andrew’s Day Fair City Market

16th July 4th & 5th August 26th August 2nd September 9th & 10th September 11th September 23rd September 18th & 19th November 26th November 9th December

BBQ LAMB KEBABS These lamb skewers are the ideal choice when you’re looking to go big on flavour. The tender, juicy meat is balanced perfectly with the courgette and crunchy sweetness of the red onions. Dip straight into the cool mint sauce or stuff into a warm pitta for a filling snack - sharing optional!

Ingredients

Method

BBQ Lamb Kebabs

Mint Relish

600g diced leg of lamb 2 red onions 2 courgettes 40ml olive oil fresh bay leaves

8 tbsp fresh mint 6 anchovy fillets 8 tbsp olive oil 6 shallots 4 tbsp lemon juice

Dice the lamb and place in a bowl with the olive oil and pepper.

Chop the onions and courgettes and skewer all of the ingredients.

Season the kebabs and cook them on the BBQ to your preference.

Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl. Season to taste and cover the bowl with cling film, allowing the flavours to develop for a few hours before serving.

what’s cooking!

Follow Your Nose

Book a Persie Gin Distillery Tour

Unless you’ve been living in a copper pot you’ll have noticed that Scotland seems to have distilled itself a second national drink. Among the best of these new brands is the incredible genius of Persie Gin, which claims its unique approach to scent is the secret to its success. Using pure glen water from the local hills and natural botanicals, the team have created three distinct, aromatic flavours.

Here at Small city we’re big fans of their sweet and nutty Old Tom Gin which is bursting with almonds and vanilla pods. Discover your favourite by booking in for a tour or private tasting session at their East Perthshire base. Bottoms up!

Camper Bar-tastic The Camper Bar Company is a mobile bar housed in a 1972 VW Camper Van named Ruby. Fully-licensed, they serve up the coolest mix of cocktails, Prosecco and beers at events across Perthshire. See them at the Craigie Hill Music Festival on 26th August or book them for your own event!

www.camper-bar.co.uk

Make Your Sunday Fizz Parklands Hotel has long-since enjoyed a reputation for its awardwinning food. Their bistro menu at No.1 The Bank offers a wonderful selection of less formal dining using locally sourced ingredients to create British and Scottish favourites with a twist.

Their Prosecco, Champagne and wine selections bring some of the world’s best vineyards to Perthshire and with a new gin menu, super selection of soft drinks for the drivers and coffee roasted by the Bean Shop in Perth you may well be tempted to stay the night!

The Sunday Fizz Lunch offers two courses of this stunning food with a glass of fizz for only £17.50 per person. It would be rude not to!

Every Day is a Picnic Join One of The Great Perthshire Picnic Events

Back for its second year, the Great Perthshire Picnic looks set to be even tastier as the team at Giraffe Trading prepare for this September’s month-long feast! ‘The Picnic’, as it has come to be known, has lined up a whole host of Perthshire foodie businesses with everything from wine tastings to international restaurant pop-ups! Look out for the Syrian Banquet, South African Braai and a special cook school experience from local chef Praveen Kumar.

Launching on 2nd September in Perth City Centre with a huge culinary celebration that will include street food, drinks and live entertainment, our advice is to make sure you’re good and hungry!

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Food & Drink Directory.

Perthshire is one of the country’s most exciting foodie destinations with a whole host of delis, shops, restaurants and bars for you to choose from. We’ve tracked down some of the best of the area’s chefs and producers who are committed to using local, seasonal produce and the very best in quality ingredients.

Follow Small City Food & Drink: We hope you’ve enjoyed this edition of our Food & Drink magazine; published quarterly, our aim is to bring you seasonal recipe inspiration, foodie stories and tales from the producers and chefs. If three months at a time seems like too long a wait then why not follow us online?

Our online magazine updates daily with new recipes appearing each and every week, all featuring stunning food photography from Gill Murray and original Small City recipes. You’ll also find fascinating tales from across Perthshire’s food and drink community, restaurant reviews full of inspiration and much more.

PARKLANDS BOUTIQUE HOTEL WITH DINING

Unit 6-8, Whitefriars Street, Perth

Loved locally for its rosette standard dining, Parklands boasts two fantastic eateries in No 1 The Bank bistro and 63@Parklands restaurant where they pride themselves on creating imaginative, flavour packed menus.

A local fishmonger with a long history in sourcing sustainable Scottish fish, the George Campbell & Sons Deli offers fresh seafood, their own GCS Speciality Kitchen meals and artisan deli items from Scottish producers.

www.theparklandshotel.com

63 TAY STREET

63 Tay Street, Perth

www.georgecampbellandsons.co.uk

TABLA RESTAURANT

173 South St, Perth

www.63taystreet.com

www.tablarestaurant.co.uk

Graeme Pallister is famed for his mantra of Local, Honest, Simple. His new-look restaurant serves up a contemporary Scottish menu using fresh, seasonal ingredients, carefully prepared to create stunning, unique dishes.

Under the watchful eye of Praveen Kumar, Tabla has grown into one of the city’s most established restaurants and busiest takeaway options serving up authentic Indian cooking in Perth’s only rosette starred Indian restaurant.

THE JADE GARDEN

14 Scott St, Perth

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GEORGE CAMPBELL & SONS

2 St Leonard’s Bank, Perth

NORTH PORT

8 North Port, Perth

www.jadegardenperth.com

www.thenorthport.co.uk

Serving the people of Perth for over four decades, The Jade Garden is run by third generation restauranteur Linda ChanMalcolm. An unrivalled offering of authentic Chinese cooking makes it a much-loved local favourite.

The North Port has been transformed in recent years by Karen and Andrew Moss, and from locally foraged ingredients to a well-stocked bar, they have created an award-winning eatery in the heart of Perth.

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ROCABLU

Rocablu, Speygate, Perth

THE VENUE

38 St John St, Perth

www.rocablu.co.uk

www.thevenueperth.co.uk

Perth’s most stylish cocktail bar awaits you for weekend drinks, private parties and fun events. With friendly staff and an exciting drinks menu, the in house DJ’s complete the package for a perfect night out or special occasion.

Famed for their well stocked gin bar, The Venue has now expanded into freshly prepared food and serves lunch and dinner 7 days a week. With their exciting blend of live music and regular events, they have something for everyone.

GLENDOICK GARDEN CENTRE AND FOOD HALL Glencarse, Perth glendoick.com

Glendoick’s award-winning food hall and café is a haven of wondrous ingredients and flavours from across Scotland. With frequent tastings and seasonal events you will find they offer everything a food lover could wish for.

MURRAYS BAKERS

THE BEAN SHOP

67 George St, Perth thebeanshop.co.uk

Famed for their fantastic speciality coffees which they roast on the premises in George Street, The Bean Shop offer an unrivalled choice of the world’s best grown beans and a wonderful selection of loose leaf teas.

PROVENDER BROWN

114 South St, Perth

23 George St, Perth

Scotch pies and pineapple cakes are just a few of the delicious handmade treats you’ll find in Murrays Bakers. Fourthgeneration artisan bakers, Murrays was proudly announced Scotch Pie World Champions in 2015.

Perth’s longest-standing deli is full to the brim with the very best in local, artisan produce and speciality ingredients. and boast unrivalled choice and expert knowledge. You’ll also find tasty sandwiches and soups.

murraysbakers.com

SCONE PALACE COFFEE SHOP

provenderbrown.co.uk

PROCAFFEINATE

Scone, Perth

www.scone-palace.co.uk

Anywhere you like! www.drinkthecoffee.co.uk

The Scone Palace coffee shop boasts a delicious selection of soups, salads, sandwiches and home-baking, all freshly prepared using ingredients from local Scottish producers as well as their own fruit and veg from the Kitchen Garden.

Procaffeinate Mobile Tea, Coffee and Cake Bar brings the brew to you! Delicious barista coffee, speciality tea and homemade cake delivered to office blocks, events and anywhere else you might want it. promotional feature

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Parklands Boutique Hotel and Dining

Dining at Parklands Parklands dining options, from No1 The Bank Bistro to our 63@ Parklands restaurant with 2 rosettes.

Contemporary Scottish dining in Boutique Hotel surroundings.

Private dining and functions space available.

Reservations on 01738 622 451 2 St Leonard’s Bank, Perth, Scotland PH2 8EB info@theparklandshotel.com 28

www.theparklandshotel.com