Kayaking in the San Juan Islands

A glossy black head pokes curiously out of the ocean as I paddle hard into the surf. The seal ducks beneath a wave, sending a spray of sea mist up into the autumn sky. On the horizon I can see the jagged crystal outlines of the North Cascade mountain range, and with every stroke I am closer to shore. Our home for the night is a tiny atoll in the San Juan Islands, nestled deep in the northwest corner of Washington State. After three days of camping in this archipelago, I never want to leave.

The San Juans are an island chain known for pastoral landscapes, breathtaking wildlife encounters, and some of the best organic bakeries around. Roughly a hundred miles northwest of Seattle, the archipelago includes 172 named islands and reefs in San Juan County. They’re all accessible by seaplane or boat, but only four are served by the state-operated ferry system: San Juan, Shaw, Lopez, and Orcas.

In the autumn of 2017, I was part of a team that spent a week on horseshoe-shaped Orcas Island, one of the biggest in the chain. The island is home to 4,500-odd residents who live on tiny lavender farms, waterfront homes, and the occasional yurt. The only town is Eastsound, and the east side of the island is dominated by Moran State Park’s old-growth forest and Mount Constitution (2,398’). Everywhere you turn, the glistening Pacific flashes light through the trees.

People come to hike, to explore, to relax, and— in our case—to kayak. Our goal: Sucia Island.

Directly north of Orcas Island is Sucia, a tiny atoll that boasts a 564-acre marine park with 77,700 feet of shoreline. The island is considered the crown jewel of Washington State’s marine park system, and is consistently ranked as one of the top boating destinations in the world. Orcas, sea lions, and curious seals frequent the island’s coastline. Visitors can hunt for fossils, scour tide pools for colorful sea life, and explore more than ten miles of hiking trails. It’s an easy day trip from Orcas, and for visitors who want to spend the night, there are plenty of beachfront campsites ($12/night). There’s even running water to refill bottles during the summer months (though it’s worth calling a local kayaking shop to confirm.) It’s only accessible by water, but with a free weekend, a sense of adventure, and a sea kayak (or other vessel), Sucia Island is yours to explore.

A leisurely two-hour paddle from the southeast corner of Orcas, Doe Island is a six-acre islet with more than 2,000 feet of shore. There are designated campsites, a pit toilet, and solitude here, all just a quarter-mile offshore of Orcas. The only access is by kayak or small boat. During some winters, the sole dock gets washed away in storms, so for now, paddlers prepared for a shore landing are the only visitors.

From Seattle, Washington, drive two hours north to the Anacortes ferry terminal, where you can either walk or drive onto a boat to Orcas Island (reservations are recommended). The scenic ride takes roughly an hour, and you’ll disembark on the west side of the island. Drive or catch a ride to Eastsound, then hit the local organic food co-op or Brown Bear Baking for lunch.

If you’ve brought your own boat, make sure it’s a sea kayak (not a river-specific model) with a spray skirt, bilge pump, and paddle float for self-rescue. If you’re renting a boat, try Outer Island Expeditions, who will hook you up with a Necky kayak—and while you’re there, go ahead and schedule your water taxi to Sucia Island ($45/person.) Intrepid kayakers sometimes paddle across the 2.5-mile channel, but currents and tides can be unpredictable. Don’t try it unless you’re an experienced paddler.

The bilge is the lowest part of a vessel’s hull. When water collects in the bilge, a bilge pump can help you stay afloat.

In your kayak, you’ll want plenty of fresh water, snacks, sunscreen, lip balm with SPF, a wide-brimmed hat, rain gear, and plenty of warm layers. If you camp on Sucia, prepare to be self-sufficient for as long as you’ll be on the island. And don’t forget your camera!

By Charlotte Austin | Photos by Kat Carney