VANCOUVER ISLAND FISHING TRIP PLANNING

By Jeff Holmes

This December as we bundle up to head outdoors or as we hide in our houses planning spring and summer fishing trips and shoving food in our faces, many of our Northwest spring Chinook are preparing to binge eat along Vancouver Island’s west coast before heading south to our waters in spring. This is all long before hordes of anglers from around the world will descend in summer 2023 on some of the world’s best and most affordable salmon and halibut fishing grounds. As winter progresses, our springers tuck into the five protected sounds of Vancouver

Island’s wild, rugged western coastline to gorge on the herring spawn, adding to the layers of fat for which they’re famous and which they need to survive from spring through early fall in freshwater.

Springers are just a part of the spectacle of fish and wildlife along the island’s west coast, which is featured in an amazing documentary available on Netflix right now. Island of the Sea Wolves is a three-part series following coastal wolves, sea otters, black bears, salmon and more, all narrated by TV’s Will Arnett – think the bad guy on Blades of Glory or the failed magician Job on Arrested Development.

The arrival of big numbers of spring Chinook in the Columbia and our Pacific Northwest coastal rivers marks the very beginning of migratory salmon season along Vancouver Island’s “Salmon Highway.” That’s the funnel-like migration corridor created by the close proximity of the continental shelf to the island’s west coast. In late May comes the first push of big summer kings along the highway. These migratory Chinook – which Canadians call springs, or tyees when they top 30 pounds – are bound for Canadian and American rivers. With them come swarms of plankton and baitfish, followed by summer-long waves of all five Pacific salmon species. With the ocean again in stellar condition, summer 2023 is likely to offer incredible fishing for salmon, halibut, lingcod, rockfish and even albacore tuna, which showed up in big numbers off the British Columbia coast in 2022.

Planning a summer trip to Vancouver Island’s west coast is a sure way to experience one of the greatest, wildest and most beautiful fisheries in the North Pacific, and at a very favorable exchange rate. Right now, one American dollar is worth $1.25 in Canadian funds. Many lodges will be present at the upcoming sportsmen’s shows (see schedule, page 65), ready to answer questions and book your trip, but you can get a jumpstart now for the most prime bookings.

IF VANCOUVER ISLAND is indeed a salmon highway, then by midsummer it is I-5 at rush hour, and salmon are the cars and trucks. Fishing boats are the outgunned highway patrol, but every cop makes his quota as more speeders streak past, gobbling baitfish, squid and shrimp as they go. Also available within a day of the American Northwest is excellent halibut angling all summer. Halibut limits are the rule, giant lings and yelloweye rockfish abound, and I have had 50-salmon days out on the ocean and caught my only three true 30-plus-pound kings. I have watched hordes of coho compete to bite the yellow tips of a Scotty downrigger release clip, had 20-pound giant pacific octopuses grab hold of rockfish as they’re reeled up, and have watched lings and halibut throw up all manner of large prey on boat decks.

Amazing salmon and halibut fishing – along with great lingcod and rockfishing – are reason enough to visit Vancouver Island, but the wildness, wildlife and cool travel experience combine to make a visit one of the Cadillac outdoor trips for Northwest sportsmen. The drive alone features a beautiful ferry ride and the island’s gorgeous mountains, rivers and lakes, as well as an opportunity to visit another country full of mostly very happy and nice people. With few exceptions –Nickelback, Alanis and the Toronto Blue Jays – I love Canadians and Canada and look forward to a couple trips a year.

The Pacific is teeming with life right now, and fishing should be once again be truly excellent. Summer 2023 may be the best time in many years to make the trip north, andnow, not later, is the time to plan. The exchange rate is mightily in our favor, making trips very affordable, and Covid restrictions are a thing of the past (hopefully). The exchange rate means very good things for us when we travel north and presents a not-so-good scenario for our friends from the north coming south. And with gas prices high, Vancouver Island is a relatively close destination for drivers. When the exchange tilts in

LIGHTWEIGHT. The lightest 200-hp four stroke on the market The lightest 200-hp four stroke on the market POWERFUL. POWERFUL. 2.8L displacement and Variable Camshaft 2.8L displacement and Variable Camshaft Timing give it the best power-to-weight ratio of any 200-hp four stroke Timing give it the best power-to-weight ratio of any 200-hp four stroke COMPACT. COMPACT. Nearly 120 pounds lighter than our four-stroke V6 F200 Nearly 120 pounds lighter than our four-stroke V6 F200

FORWARD THINKING. Show the water who’s boss with the F200 In-Line Four. Incredibly light, responsive and fuel efficient, it serves up plenty of muscle to handily propel a variety of boats. On top of that, its 50-amp alternator offers

Show the water who’s boss with the F200 In-Line Four. Incredibly light, responsive and fuel efficient, the power to add a range of electronics, and its 26-inch mounting centers and compatibility with either it serves up plenty of muscle to handily propel a variety of boats. On top of that, its 50-amp alternator offers mechanical or digital controls give you the flexibility to easily upgrade your outboard or rigging. Experience the power to add a range of electronics, and its 26-inch mounting centers and compatibility with either legendary Yamaha reliability and the freedom of forward thinking, with the F200 In-Line Four. mechanical or digital controls give you the flexibility to easily upgrade your outboard or rigging. Experience legendary Yamaha reliability and the freedom of forward thinking, with the F200 In-Line Four. OREGON WASHINGTON COOS BAY

(541) 888-5501 www.ymarinaboats.com AUBURN

(253) 833-1440 www.auburnsportsmarineinc.com EVERETT

(425) 252-3088 www.baysidemarine.com OLYMPIA

(800) 455-0818 www.usmarinesales.com

TACOMA

(253) 830-2962 www.kingsalmonsales.com

EUGENE

(541) 686-3572 www.maxxummarine.com CHINOOK

(800) 457-9459 www.chinookmarinerepair.com MOUNT VERNON

(360) 336-2176 www.mastermarine.com PASCO

(509) 525-2823 www.nixonsmarine.com SHELTON

(877) 426-0933 www.verles.com

MADRAS

(541) 475-2476 www.madrasmarine.com EDMONDS

(206) 789-7474 www.jacobsensmarine.com MOUNT VERNON

(360) 466-9955 www.tomnjerrys.net PASCO

(509) 545-5586 www.nwmarineandsport.com

REMEMBER to always observe all applicable boating laws. Never drink and drive. Dress properly with a USCG-approved personal

REMEMBER to always observe all applicable boating laws. Never drink and drive. Dress properly with a USCG-approved personal intended to be an endorsement. © 2013 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.All rights reserved.

our favor, Canadian fishing operators want American dollars even more. This makes private fishing charters even more affordable, as well as lodge stays. It’s way cheaper than Alaska and way closer to home with comparable or better fishing.

Canada’s charter model is not so much like America’s. Almost all boats are privately chartered, making for a more intimate and enjoyable experience in most cases. When you compare the costs of an Alaskan or Queen Charlottes trip with a Vancouver Island fishing vacation, there is no comparison, yet there certainly is between the fishing experiences.

Many Vancouver Island trips result in bigger trophies and bigger bags of ocean fish for the freezer than more expensive trips to the north. That isn’t to say there aren’t unmatched opportunities further north in Canada and in parts of Alaska, but for convenience, cost and extremely high quality combined, nothing beats the west coast of this 300-mile-long island. For those like me who like to drive and stay somewhat in control of their own travel, all of the island can be reached in a long day’s travel from just about anywhere in the Northwest. From north to south, remote to popular, Vancouver Island’s protected sounds are as follows: Quatsino, Kyuquot, Nootka (Esperanza Inlet), Clayoquot and Barkley. I’ve fished them all, and each offers amazing fishing and wildlife viewing, but the further north you go, the higher the cost and quality of experience. That said, the best day of salmon fishing I’ve ever enjoyed occurred in the furthest south port, Ucluelet, with Kerry Reed of Reel Adventures Sportfishing (reeladventuresfishing .com). We released 50 salmon for two rods and kept limits of Chinook, coho and halibut. But literally the whole west coast is excellent. Here’s a brief overview of its five protected sounds and Port Hardy, the furthest north post on the island and another good option.

PORT HARDY

Port Hardy is by far the biggest outpost on the north coast, and despite

the crowds the fishing here can be excellent for halibut and bottomfish and is a slam dunk for salmon throughout the summer. Home to a BC Ferries terminal and the road to famed Quatsino Sound, the harbor has a large marina with full services including plenty of lodging and restaurants.

I recommend a trip to “Hardy,” as the locals call it, despite the five sounds on the West Coast offering better halibut and lingcod fishing. I’ve stayed at plenty of places here and have seen black bears and the town’s 200-plus bald eagles all over the place. By far the best stay I’ve had was at The Orange Tabby B&B, where I once bent over to look at a baby in a stroller and instead was shocked to see a disabled pug that a bald eagle had paralyzed by trying to grab and eat it.

Ugliest baby I ever saw.

I recommend either Leisure Suit Charters or Chad’s Coastwide Sports Fishing Charters, but there are other great operators here, too.

QUATSINO SOUND

sound on the island, and home to the greatest ocean fishing I’ve ever experienced. Famed Winter Harbour (20 residents) is a long, packed-dirtroad drive from Port Hardy, which is a long haul from anywhere in the Northwest, but I’ve made it in a day from Tri-Cities several times.

Winter Harbour offers amazingly close proximity to the ocean and excellent reefs with productive protected water for inevitable rough days on the open ocean. Halibut, salmon, lingcod and yelloweye rockfish abound here in large sizes. I’ve also brought home very large and delicious octopuses and have enjoyed wildlife spectacles from land and sea of bears, eagles, otters, many marine mammals and more. The landscape is also crawling with cougars and wolves, which are seen pretty often. There is a post office where you can buy and drink liquor out of the bottle, or mail a package.

By far the coolest and nicest lodge I’ve ever stayed at in my life is Qualicum Rivers Winter Harbour Fishing Lodge (qualicumrivers.com), which is home to great and experienced guides, custom 26-foot ocean-fishing boats, dock space to bring your own boats, and clean and comfortable accommodations and really excellent food. Scarcely 15 minutes from the open ocean, it’s an amazing experience and has led to the biggest loads of ocean fish of my life. A trip to Quatsino from late June through August will result in lifelong memories.

KYUQUOT SOUND

Kyuquot (Kai-oo-cut) is just to the south of Quatsino on the far north end of the island and is accessed via boat from the town of Fair Harbour, or by seaplane. Kyuquot is very remote and much less pressured than sounds to the south and offered me one of the greatest wildlife spectacles I’ve ever seen, and I’ve sought them out my whole life.

The fishing wasn’t bad either; in fact, it was amazing. In my one trip to Kyuquot and Rugged Point Lodge (ruggedpointlodge.com), I went home with coolers full of big halibut, lings, kings, coho and rockfish. But it was the hundreds of sea otters, the three species of whales including orcas hunting sea lions, the bears, and the tracks of cougar and wolves I remember most.

Operators here fish some of the same water that Quatsino skippers fish, and these grounds are very close to the continental shelf. I highly recommend the experience at Rugged Point Lodge, which is on a small island just five minutes from the open ocean fishing grounds. They boast a proven albacore fishing program with top-end Okuma tuna tackle. Across the bay from Rugged Point is the First Nations village of Kyuquot, which also is home to fishing operators.

NOOTKA SOUND AND ESPERANZA INLET

The fishing lodges in Nootka and nearby Esperanza Inlet offer the closest access to the shelf of any fishing port on the western Pacific. This is the tightest part of the salmon highway funnel and is world famous for big kings and coho and only slightly less well known for its halibut, lings and rockfish.

From the town of Tahsis, I’ve accessed a floating lodge here that I wouldn’t recommend again (a rarity), but the scenery and overall

outdoor experience still made my trip a great time. Indeed, I plan to return this summer and access Nootka out of the town of Zeballos. I’ll fish with Reel Obsession Sport Fishing (reelobsession.ca), a very highly reviewed and recommended outfit. Whatever lodge you stay at, fishing the ocean off of Nootka Sound means the continental shelf is 17 miles offshore, funneling salmon as tight as they get and easily availing tuna in late summer. For comparison, the shelf is about 40 miles off most of the Washington Coast.

Like Kyuquot and Quatsino to the north, wildlife abounds here. Like everywhere on the northwest coast of Vancouver Island, there are sea otters, sea lions and seals, whales and black bears everywhere. In fact, a black bear tore open my poorly stashed dry bag with my lunch in it during a hike on a closed logging road covered in wolf and cougar scat. Nootka Sound is popular with Americans bringing their own boats, and both Tahsis and Zeballos offer marina services.

CLAYOQUOT AND BARKLEY SOUNDS

Located almost dead center in the middle of the island’s west coast, Tofino to the north and Ucluelet to the south are just 25 miles apart and represent gateway communities and marinas to Clayoquot and Barkley Sounds, respectively. I’ve fished both and had great times, but the towns differ mightily in cost and demographics.

Tofino is a hip community that attracts artistic types, surfers and more monied folk – along with plenty of fishermen looking to access offshore grounds and the protected waters of Clayoquot Sound. Its lodging and restaurants are very nice if not spendy, and it could represent an ideal location to bring a spouse for a classy getaway interspersed with gaffing and bleeding ocean fish.

More my speed, Ucluelet is a really cool little town with an excellent campground within walking distance of the marina. It has lots of lodging and good restaurants and plenty of charter operators. I’ve spent a few days on the ocean here with friend and aforementioned guide Kerry Reed. He’s been fishing Ucluelet for almost 20 years and spends all his summers here despite being headquartered on Kootenay Lake, in BC’s beautiful West Kootenays region. I give him my highest recommendation and have had some amazing fishing here for all species, but especially for halibut, kings and coho. On days when the Pacific is too rough to fish famed Long Beach and Big Bank in the open ocean, which of course happens, Reed and other Ucluelet charters target the protected waters of Barkley Sound, which offers excellent salmon fishing and even some halibut action. NS

111 N. Kittitas St. Ellensburg, WA 509-925-1758 • M-F 9-5pm inlandboatsandmotors.com

Our remote Alaskan fishing lodge is situated on the upper stretches of the beautiful Egegik River. You’ll watch some of Alaska’s most stunning sunrises, complete with a distant, active volcano. We are a fishing camp specializing in coho fishing, brown bear viewing, and flyout fishing adventures to even more remote destinations in the Last Frontier.

The Egegik River is touted by many experienced anglers as the best silver salmon stream in all of Alaska. Becharof Lodge On The Egegik River was the first fishing lodge to become established on the breathtaking Egegik River, and is less than a 5 minute boat ride from some of the best fishing holes on the entire river.

Included in your fishing trip: • 5 days fishing/5 nights stay in camp • Experienced, fully guided fishing. • Comfortable cabins furnished with beds, cozy comforters & bedding. • Home cooked meals, snacks, and nonalcoholic beverages. • Transportation from the lodge to prime fishing holes on the Egegik River. • Freezing and vacuum sealing of your fish, up to 50 lbs., per angler.

Includes round trip charter from King Salmon. Call for more details. Book Your Trip Today!