Alaska Sporting Journal - June 2022

FISHING • HUNTING • ADVENTURE

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Volume 12 • Issue 1 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker

INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn

GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES media@media-inc.com

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Jason Brooks, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Mary Catharine Martin, Brian Watkins SALES MANAGER Paul Yarnold ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith DESIGNER Lesley-Anne Slisko-Cooper PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker, Malena Kennedy WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines, Jon Eske

MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP 941 Powell Ave SW, Suite 120 Renton, WA 98057 (206) 382-9220 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com ON THE COVER Whether it’s kids sharing their pink salmon catches on July 23 or the $10,000 first prize for the biggest halibut or silver in derbies that run through Sept. 4, there are plenty of activities this summer in Valdez’s contests.

(VALDEZ FISH DERBIES)

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Aumann

Pistol Bullets and Ammunition Zero Bullet Company, Inc.

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P.O. Box 1188 Cullman, AL 35056 Tel: 256-739-1606 Fax: 256-739-4683 Toll Free: 800-545-9376 www.zerobullets.com

CONTENTS

35

FEATURES

VOLUME 12 • ISSUE 1

21

From placing woody debris in streams for fish habitat to creating bear-viewing areas close to the town of Angoon, the US Department of Agriculture’s new community-based approach to helping Southeast Alaskans is making the region’s outdoor paradise even better. In her Salmon State column, Mary Catharine Martin shares what it’s all about and gathers tribal and conservation group perspectives.

FATHER, SONS AND THE OUTDOORS Paul Atkins learned to love the outdoor lifestyle from his father Jack in Oklahoma.

Paul’s son Eli (right) got to experience hunting and fishing in an even more spectacular setting: Arctic Alaska. Atkins shares tales of three generations of Atkins’ sportsmen, their adventures and how their relationships have evolved over the years. Happy Father’s Day! (PAUL D. ATKINS)

NEW IDEAS, NEW APPROACH FOR SOUTHEAST ALASKA PROJECTS

29

DERBY DAYS IN VALDEZ The Covid pandemic has affected but not deterred the Valdez Fish Derbies that are a summer highlight in the Southcentral Alaska port city. While still mindful of keeping anglers and visitors safe, derby marketing coordinator Laurie Prax expects participation in the halibut and salmon events to be “insane” all the way through the Labor Day weekend grand finale. Get all the details on what to expect this year.

43

NORTH COUNTRY CARIBOU

Fall in Anchorage is usually pleasant, but to the north above the Alaska Range, the weather can be unpleasant, the snow deep, the terrain difficult and the caribou bulls unpredictable. So went the challenge for bowhunting buddies Brian Watkins, Trevor Embry and Nick Muche, who took on all these obstacles with the intent of filling their tags. Who would get the upper hand in this test of wills?

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 9 11 13 17 51 57 63 67 (PAUL D. ATKINS)

The Editor’s Note

Alaska Beat Outdoor calendar EPA recommends added Bristol Bay protections Tip of the Month: How patience can pay off for hunters From Field to Fire: Summer’s training time for hunting dogs; salmon fillet recipe Company profile: Timber King Outfitting’s Alberta, Mexico trophy hunts Company profile: High Adventure Ranch’s Ozark big game, exotic hunts

Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $49.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 941 Powell Ave SW, Suite 120, Renton, WA 98057 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2022 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 6

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EDITOR’S NOTE

The Kid’s Pink Salmon Derby is one of the most fun events during the summer-long Valdez Fish Derbies festivities.

(VALDEZ FISH DERBIES).

D

uring my recent extended trip to California, my sister, brother–in-law and I took our dogs across San Francisco Bay to the waterfront community of Sausalito, which was hosting a pet expo at a local park. It was a small gathering of vendors, but we were able to buy our fur babies a “puppuccino” they all devoured and some organic treats, plus I made a donation to an organization that trains service dogs for veterans.

What was most important to me was reveling in the idea of a community bringing visitors together for a good cause, which leads me to our preview of this summer’s Valdez Fish Derbies halibut and salmon tournaments (page 29). Laurie Prax, one of the members of the Valdez nonprofit that runs the derbies, is fond of the Kid’s Pink Salmon Derby that takes place on July 23.

For Covid-related cautions the last two years, the event became essentially 100-percent virtual, with the younger anglers submitting photos of their humpies with a chance to win prizes. Participation went through the roof last year, with Prax reporting roughly 700 entries texted or emailed in, a good sign that the next generation of anglers is eager to wet a line, “There are tons of people who have taken their kids fishing who live here. So that’s an added benefit that we have to promote sportfishing and get kids engaged,” Prax told me.

Prax also runs Valdez radio station KVAK and this year, as she’s done in the past, has invited some of the kids to call in to her station on derby day and even read some promos on air. It’s another avenue for getting the youngsters in on the summer fun in Valdez.

“We had kids calling in off the hook. We had some kids answering phones in the studio,” Prax said. “And that was huge.”

The Valdez Fish Derbies committee once again is purchasing life jackets to be distributed around town, part of several projects to enhance the facilities used during this significant event the port city looks forward to every year. Like the Sausalito pet expo, these are opportunities to showcase a Valdez and bring in much-needed tourist dollars to the community. When you can get the little anglers involved, it can pay big dividends down the line, while also promoting not just fishing but also fun.

Prax summed it up perfectly: “We all need an excuse to goof off.” -Chris Cocoles

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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Wild Boar

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estled in the foothills of the Ozark Mountains in Missouri, High Adventure Ranch offers all of the excitement of western big game hunting without the costs and hassles.

Be prepared for a fair chase hunt! With over 3 square miles of prime natural habitat, our ranch provides chal challenges to even the most seasoned hunter, but our expeexpe rienced guides and “No Game, No Pay” policy practically addiensure that you won’t go home empty handed. In addi tion, High Adventure’s hunting season is year-round, allowing ample time to fit the most demanding schedule.

While our whitetail, elk, wild boar and red stag hunts top our hunter’s most popular lists, hunters from around the world have visited our ranch, hunting everything from American bison, black buck, fallow deer to Spanish goats and African game.

So, whether you desire a 10-point whitetail mount for your trophy room or simply the thrill and challenge of taking down one of our many elusive big game animals, unHigh Adventure Ranch guarantees memories of an un paralleled hunting experience that will bring you back again and again.

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FATAL BEAR ATTACK DURING JBER TRAINING

A

Staff Sgt. sad story emerged in early May Seth Michael when a brown bear attacked a small Plant, 30, an group of Joint Base Elmendorfinfantryman with the 3rd Richardson soldiers training on the base Battalion, 509th west of the Anchorage Regional Landfill.

Parachute Staff Sgt. Seth Michael Plant, 30, an Infantry Regiment, was infantryman from the 3rd Battalion, 509th killed in the bear Parachute Infantry Regiment, was killed in attack during a the attack at the base’s Training Area 412. training exercise at Joint Base JBER officials and the Alaska Department Elmendorfof Fish and Game were still investigating the Richardson.

(JBER PHOTO) attack on a small group of soldiers in which another victim suffered non-life-threatening injuries.

“Staff Sgt. Plant was an integral part of our organization. He was a positive and dedicated leader who brought joy and energy to the paratroopers who served with him,” said Lt. Col. David J. Nelson, 3rd Battalion, 509th Parachute Infantry Regiment commander, in a JBER press release. “He always had a smile on his face, he always went above and beyond what was asked of him, and he served as an inspiration to all who had the privilege to know him. His loss is deeply felt within our organization and we offer our sincere condolences to friends and family.”

LEADERS FLOCK TO D.C. TO REQUEST PERMANENT BRISTOL BAY PROTECTION

I

n early May, a contingent led by California Rep. Jared Huffman (D-CA02) and Bristol Bay tribal and fishing industry leaders held a press conference in front of the US Capitol building to implore the Environmental Protection Agency to implement permanent protections for the region.

The EPA had delayed its ruling while the Pebble Project continues to percolate around Bristol Bay’s coveted salmon runs that opponents fear could suffer devastating losses if the mine is built. The EPA made Rep. Jared Huffman (D-CA) its decision to indeed request further speaks about the need to impleprotections on the watershed. See page ment permanent protections to Bristol Bay. (ARC INITIATIVES) 17 for further details

ALASKA BEAT TWEET OF THE MONTH

–Alaskan Jewel (whose family, the Kilchers, star in the Discovery Channel series Alaska: The Last Frontier) is covering a song about her home state.

NOTABLE NUMBER

1.43 MILLION

–Projected Copper River wild and hatchery sockeye run as the season opened on May 16.

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Discovery Channel’s The Last Alaskans featured several families living off the grid in isolated cabins on the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. (DISCOVERY CHANNEL)

FROM THE ASJ ARCHIVES – JUNE 2016

TYLER SELDEN ON LIVING OFF THE GRID IN DISCOVERY CHANNEL SERIES THE LAST ALASKANS

C

hris Cocoles It sounds like you had some interesting adventures after getting married and first moving to Alaska in the mid-2000s. What were the early days like?

Tyler Selden Sitting in Duluth we decided we were going to move to Alaska after I graduated and had a few months to decide what we were going to do. We got up there and I guess I was infatuated with the wilderness aspect of Alaska. I wanted to jump right in, but with not having any connections, nor having the option that the hippie generation had to just basically pull out a map and say, “I’m jumping off right here.”

For somebody in this day and age, you really can’t do that anymore. We just decided to get a job and get as far removed from town as I could, just to start things out. That ended up being in Coldfoot. We lived there for almost a year after moving from Duluth and that’s an interesting place. But we got to meet some people who were living the subsistence lifestyle. It confirmed – for me, especially – that I didn’t move to Alaska to be in town. I just wanted to find a way to make it work in the woods, and Coldfoot wasn’t it. After a year there we made the mistake of moving to Anchorage. I don’t know why we did that.

CC That seems like the last place you’d want to go in Alaska.

TS That seems to happen to a lot of people, where you go to the two economic centers

in Alaska – Fairbanks and Anchorage – to get a job. We happened to have a friend who had spare space in his apartment (in Anchorage). We lived there for about three months and my brother moved up with us from the Lower 48. We were desperate to get out of there, but we were broke too. At that point in our life we were just flailing around looking for a way out. We moved to Hope after that and that was basically a disaster. We ended up working for some really weird people.

CC You must have some pretty good stories from that.

TS Oh, jeez, man. We were working for about 12 hours a day for a month straight and

they ended up calling that training and didn’t have to pay us for it. They gave us a $100 check and told us it was a bonus. We thought we better get out of there. -Chris Cocoles 12

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“With something as critical to the economy of Alaska, to the way of life of the people in Bristol Bay, something as critical as this Bristol Bay watershed, you just can’t afford to leave that to chance. You gotta finish the job,” said Huffman, one of 12 US House members to sign a letter in March pleading with the EPA to eliminate projects such as the Pebble Mine via Bristol Bay protections.

“That’s why many of my colleagues and I wrote to the EPA, asking them to use the clean water act authority they have and provide that permanent protection for this watershed and fisheries – and it's now time for them to finish the job.”

Thomas Tilden, chief at Curyung Tribal Council and a board member of United Tribes of Bristol Bay, took a philosophical approach to the concerns of so many about the future of these fish.

“Our salmon is just not our salmon. We are people that live on the land and believe that we are protectors of that salmon. Because that salmon belongs to America,” Tilden said. “So we are the greatest salmon producer in the world. We want that to continue – because this product does not belong to us; it belongs to Alaskans; it belongs to the nation; it’s an international product.”

“ ” THEY SAID IT

“When you find yourself in a hole, the first rule is to stop digging, not to buy more shovels. Our current proposed megaproject is the West Susitna Access Road, and the Matanuska-Susitna Borough’s own recently released data shows the vast majority of local Alaskans oppose it – meaning it’s the perfect place to stop wasting our money and to start spending it wisely.”

-SalmonState executive director Tim Bristol, regarding a controversial road project and an Ecosystems LLC report citing the state overspending on “megaprojects” over the years .

OUTDOOR CALENDAR* June 3-12 Valdez Halibut Hullabaloo (valdezfishderbies .com/halibut-derby/halibut-hullaballoo) June 10-18 Slam’n Salm’n Derby, Ship Creek, Anchorage (slamnsalmnderby.com)

June 15 Brown bear hunting season ends in several units June 30 Black bear hunting season ends in several units June 30 Last day 2021-22 hunting regulations are valid July 1 2022-23 hunting regulations take effect July 4 Mount Marathon Race, Seward (mountmarathon.com) July 23 Valdez Kid’s Pink Salmon Derby (valdezfishderbies.com/kids-derby) July 23-Sept. 4 Valdez Silver Salmon Derby (valdezfishderbies.com/silver-derby) July 29 Valdez Big Fish Friday (valdezfishderbies.com/ silver-derby/big-prize-friday) Aug. 12-Sept. 4 Valdez Tagged Fish Contest (valdezfishderbies.com/tagged-fish-contest) Aug. 13 Valdez Women’s Silver Salmon Derby (valdezfishderbies.com/womens-derby) Aug. 13-21 Seward Silver Salmon Derby (seward.com/ event/67th-annual-silver-salmon-derby/10)

June 15 marks the end of spring brown bear hunting season in several of Alaska’s game management units.

(ZAK RICHTER/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)

For more information and season dates for Alaska hunts, go to adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.main.

Note: Check with local contacts on events that could be affected by the Covid-19 pandemic.

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Alaska Elite Outfitters –

Conquer The Wild

A

laska Elite Outfitters (AEO) was started by Mike Vanstrom, who is an experienced hunting guide and fisherman. Born and raised on a farm in Southeast Minnesota near Rochester, he grew up on the farm, spending his summers fishing and his falls bow and rifle hunting whitetail deer throughout Minnesota and Wisconsin.

After moving to Alaska in 2002, he began packing that same year and began guiding in Alaska in 2004. Michael is an avid rifle and bow hunter and has guided in Alaska for many years, where he has led hundreds of hunters and fishermen through the Alaskan wilderness for their adventure of a lifetime.

Taking his lifelong passion for hunting and fishing, he specializes in trophy brown bear, moose, and king and silver salmon adventures. Past clients that continue to come back can vouch for Michael’s expertise, knowledge of the area, and the guarantee of a great Alaskan experience.

Alaska Brown Bear Hunt AEO utilizes various hunting methods to harvest Alaska brown bears. Besides hunting moose carcasses, spot-and-stalk hunting, and floating the river where they travel, they also utilize several calling methods to bring big bears in close. AEO also utilizes vantage points for spot-and-stalk hunts as these bears move from denning areas to the river drainage. Hunting by jet boat, they travel up and down the river corridors.

Hunts are conducted in Southwest Alaska in the Game Management Unit 17 near Bristol Bay. Their bear hunting season is open for over nine months per year. As a result, AEO offers four months (April, May, Au-

In addition to that, they set you up with all the gear, bait and freezer boxes, as well as fish cleaning and packaging, for your fully guided fishing trip.

gust and September) of prime bear hunting opportunity. They hunt brown bears in the spring and fall every year with a limit of two bears per year.

Their historical success rate is 75 to 80 percent, depending on the year and weather.

Alaska Moose Hunting AEO offers a fully guided top quality moose hunting experience. By taking a limited number of hunters into their vast area, they keep the quality high. AEO efficiently uses jet boats for hunting the trophy bull moose in the area. Cow calling, bull grunts and brush thrashing are the primary methods of getting big bulls within gun and bow range.

Moose hunts are held in early September during the pre-rut, when the bulls are very receptive to calling.

Alaska King Salmon Fishing Alaska Elite Outfitters provides its clients with a fantastic opportunity to fish on the famous Nushagak River for the most massive Alaska king salmon (Chinook) run in the world.

King salmon fishing packages are all-inclusive once you arrive in the main camp, 20 miles downriver from Ekwok, Alaska. In the field, AEO provides three meals a day plus snacks for all their guests.

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Hunting and Fishing Camp Alaska Elite Outfitters is located overlooking the Nushagak River. There is a wooden cooking lodge at the hunting and fishing camp, with a stove, freezer, refrigerator and icemaker, where meals are prepared and served. The field has showers with hot running water and electricity for clients to clean up at the end of the day.

Their main hunting camp is a wooden cabin with kitchen, steam bath and outhouses. The other main hunting camps are tents with wood stoves or propane heaters.

Contact Mike Vanstrom, owner-operator, at 218-434-0068 or email mike@ alaskaeliteoutfitters.com to reserve your adventure. For more information, visit alaskaeliteoutfitters.com.

PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA

An overhead view of the Pebble Mine deposit area. In late May the Environmental Protection Agency’s Proposed Determination recommended further protection for the Bristol Bay watershed from projects like the copper and gold mine the Pebble Partnership wants to dig. (EPA)

EPA RECOMMENDS ADDED PROTECTIONS FOR BRISTOL BAY

BY CHRIS COCOLES

A

fter delaying its Proposed Determination amid pleas to implement more permanent protection for the Bristol Bay watershed, the Environmental Protection Agency recommended what Pebble Mine opponents have called for.

On May 26, the EPA’s revised report called for these new mandates “under

Clean Water Act Section 404(c) to prohibit and restrict the use of certain waters in the Bristol Bay watershed as disposal sites for the discharge of dredged or fill material associated with mining the Pebble Deposit.”

“If finalized, EPA’s Section 404(c) determination would help protect the Bristol Bay watershed’s rivers, streams,

and wetlands that support the world’s largest sockeye salmon fishery and a subsistence-based way of life that has sustained Alaska Native communities for millennia,” the EPA continued.

EPA administrator Michael S. Regan cited Bristol Bay and its plentiful salmon runs as an example of a “vibrant ecosystem” that’s critical for a healthy

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PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA local community and the financial impact it can have on the economy by staying untouched.

“EPA is committed to following the science, the law, and a transparent public process to determine what is needed to ensure that this irreplaceable and invaluable resource is protected for current and future generations,” Regan added.

‘WHAT A RELIEF’ For those who have fought the copper and gold mine project for years and endured

ups and downs of the process – the US Army Corps of Engineers first approved a version of the Pebble Mine before reversing course and denying the permit application – the news offered another glimmer of hope their determination will be rewarded for good.

“What a relief to see progress on something local people and businesses have been requesting for so long. This provides another layer of certainty that prevents the Pebble Mine from moving forward and takes some of the stress away from local businesses like ours,” said Bear Trail Lodge owner Nanci Morris Lyon.

“This step allows us to plan for the future without constantly having to worry that a

MORE REACTIONS TO EPA RULING

T

“

his proposal is good news for Bristol Bay, and it could not come at a more opportune time, as millions of sockeye salmon return to their home waters and the people of the region ready their nets to once again engage in annual subsistence and commercial fishing activities. Nevertheless, no one in Bristol Bay will rest until this 404(c) action is finalized. We look forward to participating in the public processes that will lead to a final determination before the end of the calendar year.”

-Bristol Bay Native Corporation president and CEO Jason Metrokin “EPA’s announcement that it is working on protections for our home is great news.

There is no safe place to store mine waste at the headwaters of Bristol Bay, and EPA’s action must prevent this in any of the critical subwatersheds that support the productivity of our wild salmon and all they sustain.”

-Bristol Bay Economic Development Corporation board chair Robin Samuelsen “This is a fantastic step forward that Alaskans have been urging for over a decade.

It’s clear that the EPA is taking the decades of strong science into consideration and the concerns of the people and businesses in Bristol Bay seriously. Advancing 404(c) is a welcome and essential piece of the puzzle for keeping Bristol Bay’s fisheries, and the communities, industries and opportunities they support vibrant.”

-Alaska director for Trout Unlimited Nelli Williams “Two decades of scientific study show us that mining the Pebble Deposit would cause permanent damage to an ecosystem that supports a renewable economic powerhouse and has sustained fishing cultures since time immemorial. Clearly, Bristol Bay and the thousands of people who rely on it deserve the highest level of protection.”

-EPA Region 10 regional administrator Casey Sixkiller “This is great news for all those preparing for what should be another incredible fishing season in Bristol Bay. (The EPA’s) announcement is a key step towards what can and should be one of the Biden Administration's signature achievements – protection of the world's most productive and profitable wild salmon fishery.”

-SalmonState executive director Tim Bristol

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giant mine, unwanted by the vast majority of Bristol Bay residents and Alaskans, will threaten what we have here.”

Fellow Bristol Bay lodge owner Brian Kraft is also president of the Katmai Service Providers, which includes Kraft’s Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge and 63 other Alaska businesses in the fishing, hunting and tourism industry. He called the decision “great news heading into our busiest time of the year.”

Kraft applauded the EPA for recognizing the value of Bristol Bay’s rivers and streams for the fishing industry and establishments such as his main lodge on the Kvichak River, just 4 miles from the western shore of Lake Iliamna. The Pebble mineral deposit is 20 air miles from the northern end of the lake downstream from Upper Talarik Creek, which flows into Iliamna and then the Kvichak.

“If these proposed protections are finalized, they will prohibit and restrict the discharge of mine waste into rivers, streams and wetlands of the North and South Fork of the Koktuli River and Upper Talarik Creek, rivers that would be heavily impacted if the Pebble Mine was built,” Trout Unlimited stated in a press release.

“There are no good arguments for a large-scale mining operation in the headwaters of some of the world’s best and most critical salmon habitat,” said Chris Wood, TU president and CEO. “The Clean Water Act is designed to safeguard special places like these. We are pleased that the EPA is listening to Alaskans and anglers across the country and acting on the science showing that mining in Bristol Bay would lead to unacceptable impacts on Alaska’s lands and waters.”

PEBBLE CALLS OUT POTUS In a statement, Pebble Partnership called out the Biden Administration for taking “clearly a giant step backwards” in terms of climate change goals.

“I find it ironic that the President is using the Defense Production Act to get more renewable energy minerals such as copper into production, while others in the Administration seek political ways to stop domestic mining projects such as ours,” said John Shively, Pebble Partnership CEO. “As we are still actively working through the established permitting process via our appeal of the Army Corps of Engineers

PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA

“If finalized, EPA’s Section 404(c) determination would help protect the Bristol Bay watershed’s rivers, streams, and wetlands that support the world’s largest sockeye salmon fishery and a subsistence-based way of life that has sustained Alaska Native communities for millennia,” the EPA said in a press release. (THOMAS QUINN/ UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON)

permit denial, we oppose any action that is outside of that process.”

But try telling that to Bristol Bay’s Native population, which has been harvesting the watershed’s salmon for generations. Alannah Hurley, executive director of the United Tribes of Bristol Bay, calls the tribal interests in and around

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Bristol Bay “the stewards of these lands and waters since time immemorial.”

“Our people welcome this step towards permanent protections for our waters and way of life,” Hurley said. “It’s clear the science supports the need for our region’s headwaters to be protected from a mine like Pebble’s impacts, at the

JUNE 2022 | aksportingjournal.com

site and downstream. We appreciate EPA’s efforts to address the threat Pebble poses to our lands, waters and way of life in Bristol Bay, and hope to see the agency finalize strong protections this year.” ASJ Editor’s note: For more on the EPA’s plan for Bristol Bay, go to epa.gov/bristolbay.

A more open and welcoming strategy for new ideas has given the US Department of Agriculture plenty of chances to make improvements to Southeast Alaska outdoors-related projects.

(MARY CATHARINE MARTIN)

NEW IDEAS, NEW APPROACH FOR SOUTHEAST ALASKA PROJECTS

BY MARY CATHARINE MARTIN

T

he US Department of Agriculture has a new approach in Southeast Alaska: First listening to locals about what their community needs, then working to support those ideas. So when the department asked what investments the USDA should make as part of its sustainability strategy, announced in 2020, it heard lots.

• From Kootznoowoo, the Native corporation of the village of Angoon, on Admiralty Island: The development of a new bear-viewing area nearer to Angoon, and additional opportunities for Angoon-led storytelling and economic development.

• From the Southeast Alaska Watershed Council: Restoring, in collaboration

with Tribes and communities, streams and watersheds damaged by historic logging practices.

• From the Central Council of the Tlingit & Haida Indian Tribes of Alaska: Cultural interpretive training for the US Forest Service; youth stewardship; food security and sovereignty. And increased support for the Indigenous Guardians Network.

The USDA’s initial investment of up to $25 million – almost $9 million of which has been awarded so far – is just a piece of the overall picture, said Forest Service sustainability strategy program coordinator Barbara Miranda.

Miranda, herself once a city council member and mayor of Gustavus, said

working with Tribes and local communities is key.

“It is refreshing to have been on that side of the table and now to be on this side and say, ‘What can we do for you today?’ and have some money behind it,” she said. “This was a completely different way of doing business. People came to us with their ideas. I’m hoping it will make it easier in the future to keep on supporting our Southeast Alaska communities, so we can realize the promise of the sustainability strategy.”

TLINGIT & HAIDA PROJECTS Leaders at the Central Council of the Tlingit & Haida Indian Tribes of Alaska

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Placing woody debris in creeks can help recreate natural conditions. “Normally, trees die and fall in the stream. That’s what creates the diverse and complex habitat fish need for their different life stages. That complex structure of large wood in a stream creates complex habitat – what you need for the success of the fish,” says Rob Cadmus, Southeast Alaska Watershed Coalition executive director. (SOUTHEAST ALASKA WATERSHED COALITION)

O s A v b r

T b E t r

began working with the Forest Service on the Indigenous Guardians Network a few years ago.

The agreement they developed “is really a revolutionary agreement,” said Raymond E. Paddock III, Tlingit & Haida’s Environmental Coordinator. “We get to drive the bus as we’re building it. That kind of became a stepping stone to this real working relationship with Tribes, and the sustainability strategy is trying to take that same approach.”

The approach of truly listening, said Marco Banda, Tlingit & Haida’s regional resource specialist, is “the start to taking a path toward healing.”

The Indigenous Guardians Network is modeled on work being done by First Nations in British Columbia to monitor 22

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and steward traditional lands and waters, using a blend of Indigenous knowledge and science.

“The intent behind this whole process is to ensure that Indigenous knowledge is part and parcel in co-leadership, co-management and co-stewardship, and that we are working together toward a common goal,” said Michael Goldstein, the program manager for the Forest Service’s involvement in the Indigenous Guardians Network.

The program is just at its beginning, Paddock and Banda said, and will be driven by each community’s needs and wishes.

“The Guardians program is a support system,” Paddock said. “We’re starting, tribe by tribe, community by community – whoever wants to have a seat and let

JUNE 2022 | aksportingjournal.com

us know how we can support them, we are totally open to it and here for that.”

“The Guardians can be a way of making your living – protecting, monitoring and restoring on the ground,” added Banda.

Tlingit & Haida proposals that have already been funded under the first investments are the Alaska Youth Stewards program; a fire program that will train a crew to deploy to wildfires throughout the US; and cultural interpretive training.

WATERSHED RESTORATION Rob Cadmus is the executive director of the Southeast Alaska Watershed Coalition, or SAWC, which received three grants to complete in cooperation with the Forest Service, tribes, conservation

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districts and other entities.

“All of them are hands-on fish habitat restoration projects, but they have a workforce capacity development through actual on the ground doing-thejob kind of training,” Cadmus said. “Each project has a tribal crew, and they will, in many ways, implement the project. It takes a lot of work to make that happen.”

Cadmus said many of the stream restoration projects SAWC is working on are necessary because prior to the Tongass Timber Reform Act in 1992, streams were clear cut right up to the banks.

“It degrades habitat in several ways,” he said. “It takes away shade and cover.

But also, normally, trees die and fall in the stream. That’s what creates the diverse and complex habitat fish need for their different life stages. That complex structure of large wood in a stream creates complex habitat (and) creates what you need for the success of the fish.

When you log on top of it … it can take several hundred years for natural conditions to return.”

Cadmus said keeping the ecosystem intact in the first place has direct benefits to Southeast Alaskans – both personal, since residents are more likely to be able to catch fish, and economic, because the majority of fish produced in the region originate in the lakes, rivers and streams of the Tongass National Forest.

“The Southeast Alaska Sustainability

Admiralty Island brown bears dig for clams at Pack Creek. Pack Creek is the only current bear-viewing area on Admiralty Island (called, in Lingít, Kootznoowoo) and is known for its dense concentration of brown bears. Kootznoowoo Inc., the Native corporation of the village of Angoon, hopes to establish a new bearviewing area closer to the community. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN)

Strategy is just really in line with the way our organization works, what our goals are, and what we hope to see happen in the region,” Cadmus said. “Empowering communities to steward their lands and restore fish habitat in a collective way?

A Southeast Alaska Watershed Coalition crew poses next to their recently completed restoration project on Castor Creek, on Admiralty Island. (SOUTHEAST ALASKA WATERSHED COALITION)

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We’re all for it.”

SHARING THE ANGOON STORY, FROM ANGOON’S PERSPECTIVE Jonathan Wunrow, interim president and CEO of Kootznoowoo – Angoon’s Native corporation – said the corporation plans to use the sustainability strategy money it received to “jump-start small-scale tourism” that is based in Angoon.

Some of the projects Kootznoowoo received funding for are the development of a new bear-viewing area closer to town, which could be more affordable to visitors and would employ local guides; the development of a Cross-Admiralty Island canoe route guided trip; and extending the Danger Point Trail in Angoon from Angoon cemetery to the Danger Point Peninsula and Danger Point Lighthouse Reserve.

“Angoon really has no formalized tourism right now,” Wunrow said. “The question is, how do we move forward in a way that is respectful that won’t have a significant adverse impact on the community, will generate jobs, and will emphasize what makes Angoon unique?

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“Angoon really has no formalized tourism right now,” community leader Jonathan Wunrow said. “The question is, how do we move forward in a way that is respectful that won’t have a significant adverse impact on the community, will generate jobs, and will emphasize what makes Angoon unique?” Wunrow and others hope to find that solution. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN)

What are the opportunities where we can dip our toe into the visitor industry, and begin to develop infrastructure that can support tourism, but also provide maximum benefit to the local community and economy?”

Pack Creek is the only current bear-viewing area on Admiralty Island, known for its dense concentration of brown bears, which averages one per square mile. Most visitors fly out of Juneau to visit Pack Creek.

“Our goal is that the gateway to Admiralty National Monument becomes the community of Angoon,” Wunrow said.

“Right now it’s Juneau. Visitors to Admiralty should come through Angoon and listen to the voices of Angoon Elders before they visit Kootznoowoo land – not as a control thing, but so they can honor and learn about whose land they are entering.”

“Admiralty National Monument would not exist without the visionary leadership of the Tlingit people of Angoon in the early 1970s. They’re the ones who went to DC and fought for it. Creating small-scale tourism opportunities based in Angoon will allow people in Angoon to tell the story of Angoon from their perspective. The true perspec-

tive. Angoon has an amazing story of strength and survival and wisdom that is waiting to be told.”

FUTURE OUTLOOK Long term, beyond the initial $25 million investment, the goal of the sustainability strategy is, “Restoring and shaping the management of lands that sustain all of us that live here,” Miranda said.

“Advancing community-based food and energy security … looking at, how do we work together across Southeast to retain and develop a skilled workforce for all the different industries?”

“This is a special place,” Miranda added. “We all get to live here. We’re neighbors. We’re so fortunate we live in this abundant, amazing place, and the people that have stewarded it for thousands of years; it is a collaborative effort to now take all that learning and work together to implement some good stuff for Southeast.” ASJ Editor’s note: The full list of 25 projects already funded under the initial sustainability strategy investment is available at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd1008622 .pdf. An additional $15 million in grants will be announced this summer. Mary Catharine Martin is the communications director of SalmonState, an organization that works to ensure Alaska remains a place wild salmon and the people who depend on them continue to thrive. Go to salmonstate.org for more.

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‘IT’S GOING TO BE INSANE’ VALDEZ DERBIES EXPECT EVEN MORE PARTICIPATION DURING SUMMER EVENTS

BY CHRIS COCOLES

E

ven in Covid-affected 2020 and 2021, the shows went on in Valdez, home of summers full of popular halibut and salmon derbies.

From having the Valdez Kid’s Pink Salmon Derby be virtual only, to limiting large groups at weigh-in sites for the silver salmon and halibut derbies, to installing hand-washing stations, the last two years were a challenge that the nonprofit organization that runs these multiple events passed with flying colors.

“The big thing that we do is that we have (derbies) from mid-May through Labor Day weekend and people can win prizes for that long of a period, and those people get really excited for the events,” says Laurie Prax, Valdez Fish Derbies marketing coordinator and one of seven local volunteer residents who run the derbies. “Everyone thought, ‘Oh no; what’s going to happen?’”

“The kid’s derby in that first year (2020), we just put together a form and the kids could upload their photos. And I want to think we had 700 entries. We had an overwhelming interest in that. (That convinced us) that the derbies could go on. And for a lot of people, that was a chance to put a little normal (into their lives). There’s a lot of room out there in the ocean, and (it could work) if we just tried to limit the number of people and limit the crowds at the weigh-in. So we put some of our events online. And it all worked out.”

And even as the pandemic remains something to be monitored closely, the 2022 series of derbies and special

Anglers will flock to Valdez again this summer for multiple fishing events, including the Valdez Halibut Derby. The community has weathered Covid restrictions to continue putting on these tournaments. (VALDEZ FISH DERBIES) aksportingjournal.com | JUNE 2022

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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events will resemble 2021’s, with a few new twists included. And the excitement is palpable in this little Southcentral Alaska port community on Prince William Sound.

Prax, who also runs local radio station KVAK – six of the seven derby committee members have other full-time jobs – said there was some pressure during the heavier Covid restriction years to put on the derbies in some form and help local businesses get through what was a difficult time for tourism.

“It was rough right in the middle of it, but coming out on the other side, I’m glad we did – not just because it helped us get through a tough time, but because we’re in a better position for it,” she says.

“More people have become exposed to our community. And it’s still pretty home-grown. So I think people really enjoy it and they’re bringing family that might be coming to visit. I think this has become a destination. In terms of what the hotels and RV parks are preparing for, it’s going to be a little busy; it’s going to be a lot busy.”

And Valdez is excited about the possibility of locals and even more outof-state visitors flocking into town for the marquee events. Those are the Valdez Halibut Derby, which kicked off May 21, and the Valdez Silver Salmon Derby, beginning July 23. Both conclude Sept. 4.

“It’s going to be insane. The indication is that people are so excited. We had a lot of (instate) people (last year) come anyway, because Fairbanks is becoming our friend. And I think a lot of people in Anchorage and Mat-Su couldn’t leave

VALDEZ FISH DERBIES SCHEDULE • • • •

Halibut Derby: May 21-Sept. 4 Halibut Hullabaloo: June 3-12 Kids’ Pink Salmon Derby: July 23 Silver Salmon Derby: July 23-Sept. 4 • Big Prize Fridays: July 29 and Sept. 2 • Tagged Fish Contest: Aug. 12-Sept. 4 • Women’s Silver Salmon Derby: Aug. 13 30

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

The Kid’s Pink Salmon Derby, scheduled for July 23, has become a successful virtual event, with participants taking photos of their catches.

(VALDEZ FISH DERBIES)

the state, so they were trying to find somewhere to go,” Prax says. “And they found us, which was great for our in-state (crowd). So we can’t thank (Alaskans) enough. For our little town, we have to have summer and have commerce. The fish derbies are a big part of that.”

SELFIES AND SCAVENGER HUNTS Caution during this summer’s activities remains the goal, meaning there won’t be any organized large gatherings compared to pre-Covid functions. But with some creative ideas, there will be no shortage of fun events available for those who purchase derby tickets or just plan to visit Valdez this summer.

An example is the Women’s Silver Salmon Derby, set for Saturday, Aug. 13. The festivities begin on Friday night, Aug. 12 with a bit of a scavenger hunt.

Participants who sign up and get their dog tags necklace can visit various businesses that are sponsoring the derby and look for their tag numbers posted to win instant prizes. You can also take selfies and also qualify for prizes as part of what’s called “The Coho Cruise.”

There will also be a costume contest. Go to valdezfishderbies.com/coho-cruisingevent-silver-scales for more information.

JUNE 2022 | aksportingjournal.com

“What we’re trying to do is that this is designed to get people into the (Valdez) businesses (and sponsors), so the idea is that people are getting around town. And people really responded well to this. We picked up some new sponsors,” Prax says.

“Last year we had door prizes and gave them to 10 people. Now there's going to be more prizes, and if you look for your number you can win instantly, or you can go snap these photos and have a chance to win. … We’ll have a prize crew, so when people are visiting our businesses we’ll do a live show and give hints to where we are. We’re just trying to make it fun. If they see people with the dog tags around town, we’re going to hand out prizes.”

HALIBUT, SILVER SALMON DERBY TICKETS A BARGAIN The lengthy silver salmon and halibut derbies remain the big draw for anglers hoping to catch one of the fish Valdez is famous for and compete for the biggest fish of the summer ($10,000 for first, $3,000 for second and $1,500 for third).

Tickets cost just $10 per day or $50 for a season-long pass for either the silver salmon or halibut tournaments.

Prax is grateful for local businesses that sell tickets and the port’s halibut charters, where customers can also enter and head

out for the opportunity to catch a very valuable flatfish.

And silver salmon ticket sales have increased in recent years as more instate anglers have traveled to Valdez for a chance to catch the plentiful coho in and around Valdez.

“Sometimes people just don’t buy a silver derby ticket, and they really should because your odds increase. Anyone can catch a 20-pound salmon,” Prax says.

“And the sizes haven’t been crazy, so you really don’t know what’s going to win it.

And (the fish) haven’t been coming in any special time of the year.”

“It’s also pretty easy to fish for silvers here. You can do it from shore if it’s the right time. It’s a little less expensive.”

COMMUNITY PRIDE SHINES With the Canadian border open again, Prax expects more Lower 48ers to drive north through British Columbia and into Alaska this summer. RV parks are already excited about the possibility of campers

DERBIES WITHIN THE DERBIES

D

uring this summer’s extended Valdez Silver Salmon and Halibut Derbies, participants can also pick up some bonus prizes for special “tournaments within the tournaments.”

During the halibut derby, the Halibut Hullabaloo will be from June 3-12 and features an extra $1,000 prize for the biggest fish caught during that time, in addition to the weekly and annual prizes. Just make sure to purchase your Valdez Halibut Derby ticket during that time period to be eligible.

“Halibut Hullabaloo is really just a fishing tournament within the tournament.

It’s simple and you don’t have to do anything (new),” Valdez Fish Derbies marketing coordinator Laurie Prax says. “We’re finding that a lot of people come and fish that time specifically for that extra (prize). It’s $1,000 cash in addition to the regular prizes.”

For the Silver Salmon Derby, there are two special fishing days known as Big Prize Friday (July 29 and Sept. 2). The derby participant who catches the biggest coho gets an additional $500.

“With the Big Prize Friday, we wanted to see people more than just Saturday and Sunday. So we’re trying to incentivize the idea of coming down on a Friday,” Prax says. “Again, you don’t have to buy anything but your regular derby ticket and you can win extra cash the first Friday and the last Friday of the silver derby.”

Also returning this year is the Tagged Fish Contest, featuring 21 tagged salmon that represent various prizes, including valuable fish worth $5,000, $3,000 and $1,000, respectively, for lucky ticket holders fishing between Aug. 12 and Sept. 4. CC

In addition to the fishing on Aug. 13, the Women’s Silver Salmon Derby features a bit of a scavenger hunt and selfie contest at local businesses the Friday night before the event. (VALDEZ FISH DERBIES)

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spending plenty of time in Valdez and buying halibut and silver salmon tickets.

“There are regular visitors who will stay at the parks for a month. And they couldn’t get through (the last couple years). And I think you have two years of pent-up (demand),” Prax says.

Locals who also have endured Covid lockdowns in 2020 and into 2021 are excited about the chance to get outside and fish – not to mention maybe capture the big cash prizes for the biggest halibut or salmon.

“I just think there are a lot of participants who live here and they are serious (anglers). They play to win. But I think overall what it does is just makes it more fun for them. I think it gives you that reason to go,” Prax says.

“But it’s not just to go out and win and not about the cash; it gives you a reason to get outside, and – good lord – don’t we need that right now?” ASJ

These events are a huge part of tourism for Valdez and a chance for the community and the state to get involved. “We can’t thank (Alaskans) enough,” marketing coordinator Laurie Prax says. “For our little town, we have to have summer and have commerce. The fish derbies are a big part of that.” (VALDEZ FISH DERBIES)

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Editor’s note: For more on the Valdez Kid’s Pink Salmon Derby, see page 9. And go to valdezfishderbies.com for more information on this summer’s events.

Author Paul Atkins and son Eli shared many fishing and hunting adventures when they lived in Alaska. Eli is now a college student in Oklahoma, where Paul has moved back to, but the father-son bond is alive and well. (LEW PAGEL)

WE ARE FAMILY FROM ALASKA TO OKLAHOMA, OUTDOOR ADVENTURES ARE SPECIAL FOR FATHERS AND SONS

BY PAUL D. ATKINS

S

tanding behind that tree, I remember thinking about how perfect things were. A perfect moment in time, when the world was right and there was nothing that really mattered. And even though the deer that was feeding towards me at 20 yards had no clue I even existed, it wasn’t really about the deer.

That is my life now – quite different than it used to be. I traded Alaskan tundra for hardwoods, and below-zero winter weather for Heartland of America hot, humid days. Was it a good trade? I don’t know yet; the jury is still out.

MY INTENTION WAS TO write a father-son story for Father’s Day, which is on June

19 this year. But what would I write about? Should it be about me and my son Eli’s adventures up north? I’ve done that many times and our relationship even fills a couple chapters in my book Atkins’ Alaska.

There is a rabbit story that has always been my favorite and one I’ve written about many times. Eli was 7 then and

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we were up at Paul’s Slough (not mine personally, but I wish it was) in the middle of spring when we ran into a husk of snowshoe hares – big and white and camouflaged in the frozen willows.

Eli took his first and I was able to get it on camera. It was a special day and one of my fondest memories.

Then there was the Kobuk River caribou saga with my buddy Lew Pagel, which was also exciting. Those big bulls were tired from their epic journey south and without a hint of care just laid down right there on the bank watching us as we ate our MREs. We didn’t fire a shot, but the sheer surprise and awe was palpable on both sides. There are a hundred more stories I could choose from.

I could also write a lot about my father Jack, who is actually responsible for all this hunting craziness in my life.

Without him and his shared adventures

I probably wouldn’t have taken the path that I have. I’m thankful for it. Now that I’m back in Oklahoma and close to him, I get to share it with him personally. I’m truly thankful for that, especially being back on the farm.

It’s everywhere, though, if you really look or watch or read. A father’s guidance is normal when it comes to the outdoors, especially if you live in places where things are still wild. It’s natural, but something that maybe isn’t quite as popular as it once was in some places.

Taking your son or daughter to the woods for an outing or adventure is an everyday occurrence and the true essence of family life. I see it here in Oklahoma, just as I saw it in the Arctic.

YOU WOULD THINK THAT it might be different here, but it isn’t. I see fathers and, in most cases, mothers too taking

Eli once joined his dad for a memorable Kobuk River caribou quest.

The elder Atkins called this hunt “one of our greatest moments,” and it was shared with his good buddy Lew Pagel. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 36

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

JUNE 2022 | aksportingjournal.com

their kids fishing or hunting, just like in the Arctic, where loading up in a boat or on a sled and heading out on the lake or upriver is still a very familiar sight. I like seeing that so much; for some reason it makes me feel comfortable.

Just like my dad when I was young, I’m glad I was able to take Eli – along with Lew – and find those perfect days afield in Alaska.

I learned and experienced it from him, but in different surroundings. I got my education in the woods. And now that I’m back in the hills and hollers of my youth, they’re familiar again, and I spend a lot of time in them. I even get to spend time with my nephew Tyler, who grew into a fine young man while I was away on my Alaska quest. Like me, Tyler is a hunting addict and now that I’m home I get to share in the stories of our whitetail season. Better late than never, I guess,

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Being home has provided Atkins the chance to hang out with his father, Jack, again. “He created my love for hunting and still teaches me today,” the author says.

“Hunting last fall with him was one of the biggest joys, and this buck proved it.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) For Atkins, now that Eli’s in college, old photographs like this one of his son in a boat in Arctic Alaska, or the two of them chasing small game closer to their former home in Kotzebue, help him “realize how special and important” their time afield was. (PAUL D.

and I’m thankful for it all.

With Eli it was different, and now that he is in college and doing well, I think back to those days and those moments. I see old photographs of us either chasing rabbits or ptarmigan behind town and realize how special and important that was.

Cutting meat after a long weekend upriver was something that Eli cherished: When Lew and I pulled the boat back in, he was anxious to grab a knife. Or how he helped pull Lew’s net hoping that at least one fish had made a mistake. Or when ice fishing came around and us going to the “secret spot” was filled with anticipation.

Eli still tells stories today of pulling those big fish through the ice and whacking them on the head. People can’t believe it, but he did it himself. He learned and he had fun.

I see him now down here in his busy life at school and with his home so far

ATKINS)

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away, and I’m missing him. Unlike me, Eli is a true Alaskan. I have no doubts that someday he will return.

Sometimes I wish I could go back to those early days and do more with him, but life doesn’t allow that. We can only cherish the times we had and the new times to come. Will we ever ride a snowmachine again, or go down to the beach and look for starfish or hunt fox as we once did? I hope so; I know he will want to do it again.

ONE OF OUR BIGGEST father-son memories

was a late-season caribou hunt we went on with Lew up the Noatak River. It was early October and probably a little late to be chasing ’bou on the tundra, but we went anyway. It was a cold ride in the boat and never-ending rain tormented us the whole way. As a father I was starting to think that maybe this was a

One of the things a father can teach is how to take care of what you bring home. Eli was a natural at cutting meat and loved to help when Dad got home. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

Pulling a net is a little bit like Christmas. You don’t know what you’re going to find or see, and it’s fun. Whether you haul in a fish or two, letting your kids do it makes it so much better. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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bit too much, but Eli – he was 8 at that time – took it like a trooper.

We searched all day with nothing to show for it until we started home. Eli pointed and there on the bank covered by dense willows and their yellow fall leaves stood a group of caribou. We headed to the bank just as they headed to the deep tussocks. We anchored and took off after them, eventually killing the only bull in the herd.

The pack out wasn’t much fun, and the water was deep getting back to the boat. Despite the hole I had in my waders I actually carried Eli on my back the last 50 yards. We were all excited, grateful and exhausted. It's all about moments, something that we should always cherish in that moment.

I had a few this year with my dad, just as Eli and I had in our time in the Arctic. A big deer roamed our place here in Oklahoma all last summer. Dad and I watched him, kept track of him and talked about him just about every day. When September rolled around, the buck disappeared for a while, but eventually returned for the opening of bow season. Eight days later, I found myself in the woods with my father packing out what would become my biggest Oklahoma whitetail.

This was something special that I got to share with Dad, and he with me.

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And like Eli on that cold October day in a place that few will ever see, I got to experience my childhood once again. If we could all be so lucky.

AS I GET OLDER and having moved far away from the intensity of being out there searching, I realize that the true essence of hunting is not about the size of the animals we take. It’s about the moments we share, those things we experience with the people we love. For most of us hunting is about life, something we can pass down from father to son and from father to son again. ASJ

Eli will always have the memories of his years in Alaska with his father, whether it was that time he was bundled up to cross Kotzebue Sound or off on a chum salmon fishing excursion. “Taking your son or daughter to the woods for an outing or adventure is an everyday occurrence and the true essence of family life,” the author writes. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author formerly of Kotzebue, Alaska and now based in Oklahoma. He’s had hundreds of articles published on big game hunting in Alaska and throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. His new book Atkins’ Alaska is available on Amazon and everywhere good books are sold. For an autographed copy, email him at atkinsoutdoors@gmail.com.

Paul is a regular contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal.

FALLING FOR WINTER CARIBOU IN ALASKA’S FAR NORTH, OCTOBER IS COLD AND SNOWY BUT OFFERS BOWHUNTERS A CHANCE AT BIG BULLS IN THE RUT

BY BRIAN WATKINS

O

ctober up north is an end cap to fall in Alaska. Most hunts have yielded to the long winter ahead, but deer, caribou and goat seasons continue into that month.

Since we had tagged out on goat and deer earlier in autumn, our last option was caribou. Nick Muche, Trevor Embry and I had heard tall tales about how amazing hunting caribou in October can be. They’re in mid-rut and gathered in big herds. If you time it right, you can have a hell of a hunt.

WE LEFT THE FALL weather of Anchorage to face the harsh winter of the Last Frontier’s far north. Above the Alaska Range, winter sets in a few weeks before it falls on Anchorage. As it often goes with hunting, we weren’t in for an easy time.

The stories of caribou migrations along the highways made us willing to drive relentless hours in search of a herd. But when we arrived in an area we know well, the caribou were few and far between.

Nick had spotted a few caribou up in the mountains, though a ways off. The

snow had already fallen waist-deep, so trekking to the herd would be a feat. The animals were nestled in a valley about 1,500 vertical feet above our level.

We had a simple plan: I was to hike the mountain and see if I could either get a shot or push the herd down the slope.

I got to within 50 yards of the biggest bull I have laid my eyes on in 10 years of hunting caribou. I went to draw my bow, and my release had frozen shut. The bull stood above the rest of the herd, ready to chase smaller bulls off.

When fall is in full swing throughout Anchorage and Southcentral Alaska, to the north in the Brooks Range, it’s winter conditions and waist-deep snow – and also some great hunting for caribou. (BRIAN WATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | JUNE 2022

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The guys had a difficult trek through the snow to close the gap on a herd perched in a valley 1,500 feet above the river bottom. (BRIAN WATKINS)

I put my release in my mouth to thaw it as quickly as possible. By the time I finally got it to open, the bull had wandered off. I was deflated. An easy shot had been within my grasp, but the cold winter had other ideas.

I tried to reposition myself, but as I did I was spotted. The herd took off down the valley, but luckily the caribou were still within our plan. Trevor and Nick laid below in an ambush position.

As I watched the herd take off, I ran down the mountain to try and link up with Nick and Trevor. I got into position ahead of the herd but couldn’t close the gap. I watched the herd pass Trevor and Nick and saw a bull tip over. Trevor had made a great shot at 30 yards and killed a decent bull.

We spent the afternoon getting the bull cleaned, quartered and packed out.

We were able to make it work in an unlikely scenario.

AS IT GOES WITH caribou hunting, we spent the rest of the trip trying to maneuver on smaller groups and failing. To me, caribou are the hardest animal to read. I call them the great wanderer, as they just mill about the open fields in no particular direction. They seem to frustrate me more than any other animal.

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Nick Muche, Trevor Embry and author Brian Watkins (left to right) with one of their two harvested bulls. (BRIAN WATKINS)

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Muche (front) offered Watkins some great advice when it comes to chasing these majestic bulls: “When the caribou are migrating, let the lead cow and a couple more pass, then sneak in.” (BRIAN WATKINS)

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Nick gave me a piece of advice that I will carry with me in the future. He said when the caribou are migrating, let the lead cow and a couple more pass, then sneak in.

We had spotted a small group of caribou in the bottom of a valley, so I made my way toward them. They were migrating and moving fast. I had to speed hike down ahead of them. As I got to where they were, they pulled their vanishing trick. I glassed for the herd and found nothing. I was about 2 miles from where Trevor and Nick waited for me.

With my head hung low in disappointment, I caught movement ahead of me. I saw a cow and a calf jogging in my direction. Recalling Nick’s advice, I sat low in the waist-high snow to keep out of sight. The cow and calf sped past me and I started to run to their trail knowing there could be more behind them.

As I closed in on the position I wanted to be in, a small bull spotted me and changed course. Before, I would’ve tried to move again and get in front of him. But thanks to Nick’s tip, I went to where the cow and the calf had set a path.

It wasn’t easy to get to that spot. I ran through a small boulder field that was covered in snow, slipping, sliding and flailing all over the place. It would’ve been rather entertaining to watch.

I sneaked into 40 yards of the path

in the snow and waited. The herd that I had lost was on their way down the trail. A big bull with sweeping back tops came along and I let an arrow sail into his lungs. He ran 50 yards and piled up!

When I got back to Trevor and Nick, I

The hunters were OK with the hard work, deep snow and cold temperatures, thanks to the prizes they brought home to fill their freezers. (BRIAN WATKINS) 48

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faked being sad and kept my smile hidden with my head low. They read right through it after they saw my quiver was missing an arrow. We had killed two awesome bulls.

And winter had arrived in Alaska’s far north. ASJ

The author’s good friend Jerry was patient. He took his first caribou 100 yards from the tent, while two other buddies spent an entire day packing theirs through some of the Arctic’s toughest country. As Tom Petty sings, “The waiting is the hardest part,” but waiting for a bull to wander in closer makes it a lot less physically demanding in the end. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

OUTDOOR TIPS OF THE MONTH

BUYING INTO THE PATIENCE PRINCIPLE Editor’s note: Each issue, our Paul Atkins will offer a tip outdoorsmen and -women can use as they prepare for an Alaska adventure. This month: Why having patience is critical during a hunting or fishing trip.

BY PAUL D. ATKINS

S

“

top, Lew; I think I saw something!”

“What was it?” he asked as I pointed towards the big lake we

had just passed.

“I think it was a moose standing on the backside next to the shoreline,” I replied.

Lew maneuvered the boat like a pro and eased us into the opening of the narrow

slough. The wall of willows blocking our view slowly receded and brought us to a stop. With zero wind, it brought an onslaught of mosquitoes – vengeful and unforgiving in their quest for blood.

We both brought up our binoculars and could see that I was right; it was a bull that was standing seemingly unconcerned on the far side of the lake.

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He was small, but size didn’t matter in our quest to find an antlered bull to fill the freezer. Getting close enough for Lew to make the shot, however, would be the tough part, especially with zero cover.

The bull then did something totally uncharacteristic; he jumped into the water and started swimming towards us.

Lew and I couldn’t believe it, and in no time the bull was next to the boat!

Now, I’ve been in on moose kills in water situations. It’s not a lot of fun and it seems the work is never ending.

Getting them to dry land is quite an undertaking and before you’re done, you’re usually soaked and standing in waist-deep water.

DECISION TIME We debated on what to do, as the bull seemed to be on a mission of his own.

Upon closer inspection, we could see why. He was covered in black flies and mosquitoes. He was just looking for some relief from the bugs that the cool water would provide; I would have too.

Lew and I decided against trying to take this one. We knew that there might be another bull or two upriver

and in a better location. So we grabbed our cameras and wheeled off several hundred photos as he swam away. It was quite the experience.

It’s like that a lot here – almost; everything can be considered almost in the Arctic, and Alaska in general.

We almost got there or that bear was almost in range or that moose was almost in the right place, but …

It seems that a lot of things in the hunting and fishing world are a series of almosts, near misses or what-couldhave-been moments, especially early in the season – like when the water is high and conditions aren’t quite ideal.

I know a lot of these Tip of the Month features represent after-the-shot advice, but I’m making this one a before-theshot piece. The “before” has a lot to do with the “after” for most of us, as a lot of those scenarios revolve around using a little patience in the buildup to the bang.

where and how you do it will have a big effect on the amount of work you do after.

If you like work and want it to be part of your experience, then I say go for it.

Believe me when I say there have been hundreds of times that the amount of effort given on a trip or hunt resulted in some of my best memories.

But here I’m talking about getting into the right location, being patient and waiting until things are better than average for your shot. Then the animal you’re after can be taken successfully in a situation that makes you a lot happier for taking your time and being deliberate throughout the process.

I know that it doesn’t always work, especially when you’re hunting, say, caribou. To get a bull requires a shot in some pretty tough country. That rush of adrenaline hits you and, in those times, you have to make things work or you may miss the opportunity.

WHEN HUNTS GET DIFFICULT

LET THEM COME TO YOU

Hunting big game in Alaska can sometimes be easy, while other times it’s anything but. Killing an animal with a bow or rifle is usually the easiest part, but

I once was hunting with a friend from the Lower 48. We were after caribou way up north, but animal sightings were slim to none. On the fifth day of a seven-day

Where you set your camp will have a lot to do with the amount of success you have. Do your research and, if possible, go to those places where you will see the most game. This drop camp for a DIY caribou hunt was ideal. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 52

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This moose decided that his swimming exercise was over and exited the scene. “We could have taken him and filled the freezer, but the conditions weren’t right, and it was the first day of our hunt,” says the author, whose waiting and patience eventually yielded a bull that trip. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

hunt, my friend spotted a group of three bulls from camp. They were far away across some awful tundra, but from the spotting scope they looked to be coming our way.

I told my buddy to be patient, that they would eventually get closer and we could ambush them. Well, he wouldn’t have it and took off in their direction.

I watched from camp as he made his way towards the caribou; they were at least a mile or so away. I was thinking that he would never get close, but I heard the sound of a rifle echo in the distance.

He had one down.

The remaining bulls kept coming towards camp and I was in awe as they practically walked by me. My first thought? Patience.

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Long story short: I had to pack up and wade through some of the most awful tussocks to help my buddy. I didn’t mind it, but if he would have just waited ... Oh, well.

THE WAITING IS THE HARDEST PART My experience after all these years tells me to wait, take my time and see what happens. Here are five things that will help you be more successful this fall.

• Wait, be diligent and just see what happens. If you have animals close and they can be seen, then being deliberate will give you and your party time to make a plan. Don’t walk 5 miles, shoot a bull and expect it to be easy to haul it back.

Most of my kills have happened within earshot of camp or the boat.

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• Know your limitations. Now, this will have a lot to do with the species you’re chasing and what your experience level is like. Again, if you're hunting caribou, then they should be moving or migrating and will usually follow a path, so get to that path and wait. On the other hand, moose movement has a lot to do with the rut, so get a call and know how to use it. Get them close for the kill, if possible.

Your back will also appreciate it.

• Ballistics. Know your rifle, how it shoots and where it hits at different distances. This is a no-brainer for a seasoned hunter, but if this is your first trip to the tundra, then practice – a lot – before you get here. The last thing you want is to have a wounded animal wandering all over the country. If you’re using archery

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This big boy was taken by design.

Big herds were following a trail close to camp and had been doing so for days. “We glassed until we saw the bull we wanted, made a plan and ambushed him at 7 yards,” Atkins recalls.

“It was fun and the pack was short.” And that’s why not rushing into the shot makes your hunt that much easier and efficient.

gear, the same rules apply.

• Have a plan, especially if hunting with others. Alaska is big and if you’re doing a DIY drop camp, you’ll have a lot of country to pursue. Find a high place, glass and get to know the area. Then make a plan that will give you and your buddies the best chance.

• Have fun, relax and enjoy your time in the field. It doesn’t have to be a rush situation all the time. If you succeed and shoot a good bull in camp, great, but if you agree to venture out further to get it done, then have fun doing it and don’t complain about the amount of work it might take to finish the job.

(PAUL D. ATKINS)

AS TIME GOES BY In my younger days, I would walk to the ends of the earth to get a harvest done. It was hard, but eventually over time I learned that if you’re patient and methodical, most hunts will usually end with a better or closer result. Maybe I’m just getting old now. ASJ Editor’s note: Got a tip question for Paul? Email ccocoles@media-inc.com with your query.

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FIELD

No matter what workout he’s giving or where, professional dog trainer Jess Spradley is always teaching and reinforcing commands to his dogs. Here, Spradley works with one of his prized German shorthaired pointers. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

THE DOG DAYS OF SUMMER

’TIS THE SEASON TO TRAIN FOR UPCOMING HUNTS

BY SCOTT HAUGEN

S

ummer is here, and for your hunting dog there is no offseason.

During the spring and summer I work my dogs in a wide range of habitats for seven days a week. My goal is to condition and train them in a variety of landscapes and situations, so they’re physically and mentally prepared come hunting season. A lot of discipline training is achieved in the process.

ROAD RUNNERS Jess Spradley of Cabin Creek Gun Dogs in Lakeview, Oregon, is a renowned dog trainer, dedicated upland hunter and trains competition and breeding dogs year-round. Some of Spradley’s prized pudelpointer pups live in Alaska.

“Now is when I start roading dogs,” he says. “There are a couple ways to do this, but for hunters the most efficient

is to get on a secluded logging road or remote country road and drive an ATV, electric bike or ride a mountain bike, and (then) let your dogs run in front.”

Spradley notes the goal of roading is to let your dog run loose at its own pace.

“You want to reach 6 to 10 miles per hour, and if your dog wants to go faster, great. I like running dogs up a gentle incline, as that builds strength in their back end.”

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FIELD HOW SWEET AND SMOKE CAN FLAVOR UP ‘FISHY’ SALMON

BY TIFFANY HAUGEN

W

hen looking to transform a stronger-flavored fish like salmon, think sweet and smoky.

Many people who don’t care for a salmon dinner will fawn over smoked salmon, while those who think of salmon as having a “fishy” flavor might change their minds with a fruit-forward salmon recipe. Unique and complex, the subtle smokiness and layered fruit flavors work

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The combination of sweet chunks of fruit like pears or apples and the flavor from the smoking process can eliminate the fears about your salmon tasting too “fishy.” (TIFFANY HAUGEN)

One large salmon fillet 2 tablespoons soy sauce ½ cup grated pear and/or apple Zest and juice of one orange 3 tablespoons melted butter 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon rice vinegar ½-inch grated ginger root ½ teaspoon dried coriander ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ½ teaspoon salt Chive or scallions for garnish

ginger, coriander, paprika and salt until thoroughly combined.

Preheat your smoker for 10 to 15 minutes. Add smoker chips, chunks or pellets of choice to the chip pan. Place salmon skin-side down on a smoker rack. Smoke for 30 to 40 minutes. If using a gas smoker, be sure not to turn it on too high of a temperature or the fish can get overcooked on the outside. This is a quick smoking approach to simply infuse the salmon with smoke flavor and not cook it.

Remove fish from smoker and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Top salmon fillet with fruit mixture. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes or until salmon reaches desired doneness or an internal temperature of 135 to 140 degrees. Top with chopped chives or scallions if desired.

Remove pin bones from salmon. Place soy sauce in a large casserole pan and place salmon fillet meat-side down on top of soy sauce. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes. In a medium bowl, mix graded apple and/or pear, orange juice and zest, butter, brown sugar, rice vinegar,

Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany’s popular book, Cooking Seafood, and other bestselling titles, visit .tiffanyhaugen.com.

together to create a very special taste.

This delicious recipe works with all five salmon species, whether they’re caught from rivers or the ocean.

Remember, salmon have delicate meat, so avoid tossing them around in the boat or on the river bank. Be sure and bleed fish immediately after being caught and get them into a cooler. Taking proper care of your fish in the field will result in a tastier end product.

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FIELD

When Scott and Tiffany Haugen lived in Hyder, Alaska, there was no shortage of fun, exciting, challenging places to exercise and train their dogs, Echo (left) and Kona, both pudelpointers. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

Spradley’s goal is to attain a 45-minute workout. He gives water to his dogs every 15 minutes, as an objective of this training is to condition a dog to perform without constantly begging for water.

“If they ask for it every few minutes, keep working them and make them wait; don’t give in,” he says.

FREE-RUNS I love running my dogs in the mountains and expansive fields, as it gets them in shape and engages their minds. When we lived in Hyder, Alaska, our two pudelpointers loved running through alders, creek bottoms, big timber, steep hills, tidal flats, gravel bars and even in the snow; all are good workout settings.

“I’ll let my dogs run in the woods or brush for an hour,” points out Spradley.

“They go at their own speed: running, jumping and exploring. Let ’em go as fast 60

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

as they want, and if you have two dogs, that’s better, as they push one another.

This is great for endurance training and the sights, smells and sounds stimulate their mind.”

“Remember: Hunting dogs are very smart and they get bored doing the same thing in the same place,” Spradley adds. “Their mind and body need continual stimulation and challenges in order to optimize their happiness and performance levels.”

Even on short morning outings and before dinner, I like letting my dogs explore different areas. On these brief potty runs, it’s about opening up their minds, not getting them in shape. Even if you have to drive a short distance to let them roam and play, do it.

WATER TIME If I had one setting in which to condition my dogs it would be water, and Spradley

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agrees with how effective of a workout it is.

“Long swims work every muscle in a dog, and the more water situations you can get them in, the better,” he says.

“Lots of folks swim their dogs for 30 to 40 minutes while they paddle alongside in a canoe, kayak or paddle board.”

The water can still be cold in many parts of Alaska, so don’t keep your dog in the water too long. Neoprene vests can also help keep your dog warm during summer swims in cold water.

I swim my dogs in lakes, ponds and rivers, as well as waters with reeds and tall grass, while avoiding swift currents.

I split summer workout sessions into two 45-minute blocks; one running in the morning and one swimming in the afternoon. Those occur four days a week.

Two days they’ll run during both sessions, and one day they’ll rest. I mix up bumpers and training dummies to motivate the dogs and keep them interested.

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FIELD

“If you can devote 15 minutes of conditioning training in the morning and 15 at night, that’s better than nothing,” Spradley says. “But I’d rather go twice a week for 45 minutes and work ’em hard, rather than go more days for shorter times.”

In every workout scenario I’m training my dogs to obey verbal commands and hand signals. Such training never stops, and instilling basic commands is important for effective training and later, for hunting.

“My commands never vary,” concludes Spradley. “No matter where I am, I’m teaching my dogs the same commands in all situations. Conditioning sessions are the time to train your dog and get them to do what you want, and this will carry over into hunting scenarios.” ASJ

Swimming is a low-impact workout and one of the best ways to keep your dog in shape. Swimming dogs while you paddle a kayak, canoe or paddle board is one option, as are long-distance water retrieves. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

Editor’s note: To learn more about Jess Spradley’s training and gun dogs – especially his elite line of versatile pudelpointers – visit cabincreekgundogs.com.

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Moose are the biggest big game that Timber King Outfitting guides for, but whitetails, mule deer and more are available for sportsmen looking for “an unforgettable and successful experience.” (TIMBER KING OUTFITTING)

BE ALBERTA-BOUND, AND BEYOND

Moose are the biggest big game that Timber King Outfitting guides for, but whitetails, mule deer and more are available for sportsmen looking for “an unforgettable and successful experience.”

TIMBER KING OUTFITTING GUIDES MOOSE, WOLF HUNTS IN CANADIAN PROVINCE, AND DESERT BIGHORN, DEER IN MEXICO.

BY STAFF

A

lberta, Canada, is home to many big game species, and is an ideal hunting destination for nonresidents looking to bag a trophy.

The Alberta-based company got its start guiding for wolves, filling a hunting niche in a province that hosts an abundant population of the predators. (TIMBER KING OUTFITTING)

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COMPANY PROFILE Mule deer, whitetail and moose abound, as do wolf and bighorn sheep, and hunting opportunities are plentiful.

Local outfitter Rob Brown has been guiding from a young age and has more than 15 years of experience in the business, so he knows what it takes to not only pursue these animals, but to give his clients the adventure of a lifetime. Initially, Timber King Outfitting started as a small wolf hunting outfit – “I had seen the demand for nonresident hunters wanting to harvest a wolf and the abundance of wolves we had in Alberta,” he explains – but things took off quickly from there.

“We started small, and with success in mind, we had created a unique experience hunting wolves in the depth of winter that snowballed into a rather large business,” says Brown. “From there, we started to acquire permits for deer and moose.”

Mule deer and moose have since become Timber King Outfitting’s most

Mule deer are among the Canadian company’s most popular hunts these days, thanks to guaranteed tags that contrast with draw-only opportunities in some American states home to the iconic species. (TIMBER KING OUTFITTING)

popular hunts. Brown explains, “With limited harvest opportunity stateside, it creates a demand in hunters not In Sonora, Mexico, Timber King Outfitting guides for Coues and mule deer, and desert bighorn sheep. (TIMBER KING OUTFITTING)

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wanting to wait until they’re successful in drawing a tag – which in some states is a lifetime, depending on the tags – making our guaranteed tags very attractive to a citizen of the USA.” Each all-inclusive package is tailored to the client’s individual needs, and every hunt is led by one of the company’s knowledgeable, experienced guides.

“The majority of our clients repeat after their first hunt with us and have told us that they specifically like our company because of the knowledgeable and professional team we have built,” adds Brown. “It’s easy to have fun while hunting with us and let the hunt play out because our clients feel they are in the best position for success due to our extensive scouting and preparation for the hunt. We don’t sit on game, waiting for the hunters to show up; we scout to get an idea of where we need to be in order to achieve the best odds of a harvest and then return with the clients and give them an honest hunt in a prime area while giving them the full experience.”

And if that wasn’t enough, Timber King Outfitting has expanded their business south to Sonora, Mexico, offering guided hunts for a variety of species.

“I had been guiding in Mexico for a

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“Our mission is to provide every client with an unforgettable and successful experience,” says outfitter-owner Rob Brown. A happy hunter smiles over a nice bighorn ram. (TIMBER KING OUTFITTING)

number of years before a decision to start taking hunters myself into old Mexico,” says Brown. “I had some very good friends that owned ranches down there that were looking for someone to work with to provide hunting trips for desert bighorn, muley and Coues deer. We started slow and with a few clients, and it quickly became busy with hunters from all over the globe reaching out in hopes to hunt with us for free-ranging game in Mexico.”

Whatever your destination and whatever your targeted species, you’ll be well taken care of at Timber King Outfitting.

“Our mission is to provide every client with an unforgettable and successful experience,” says Brown. “Whether success is measured from a harvest of a mature specimen or an adventure leaving you with lifelong memories and new friends, you can rest assured that our professional staff will tailor a service to your specific and individual needs.” ASJ Editor’s note: For more information, visit timberkingoutfitting.com.

CUMBERLAND’S NORTHWEST TRAPPERS SUPPLY Hide Tan Formula has been used successfully by thousands of hunters and trappers across the U.S. and Canada. No more waiting several months for tanning. Now, you can tan your own hides and furs at home in less than a week, at a fraction of the normal cost.

Our Hide Formula tans deer hides either hair-on for a rug or mount, or hair-off for buckskin leather. Tans all fur skins – muskrat, mink, beaver, fox, coyote, raccoon, squirrel, rabbit, etc. It also applies to bear, elk, moose, cowhide, sheep and even snakeskin. Hide Tan Formula is premixed and ready to use and produces a soft, supple Indian-style tan in five to seven days.

One 8-ounce bottle will tan one deer hide in two medium-sized fur skins. Bear, elk, moose and caribou require three to six bottles.

Complete instructions are included. You’ll be amazed how easy it is!

Tanned hides and furs are great to decorate your home or camp and also to sell for extra income. Tanned hides and furs are in demand by black powder enthusiasts, American Indian traders, fly tyers, country trading posts and many crafters. Our products are proudly produced and bottled in the U.S. for over 20 years.

Available at Cumberland’s Northwest Trappers Supply in Owatonna, Minnesota.

Call (507) 451-7607 or email trapper@nwtrappers.com. nwtrappers.com

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COMPANY PROFILE

HIGH ADVENTURE IN THE OZARKS MISSOURI FREE-RANGE BIG GAME RANCH OFFERS HUNTS FOR MORE THAN 30 SPECIES, PLUS LODGING, FISHING AND MORE

BY JASON BROOKS

T

here comes a time in every hunter’s life when they start to think of hunting something new. Maybe a trip to Africa for kudu, impala and springbok, or an adventure to New Zealand for red stag. These hunts are often “once in a lifetime” for most hunters, who save up and plan for a trip to a faroff land. In recent years, excursions like this have been difficult with the current climate of Covid and travel restrictions.

International travel restrictions have made it hard to get to New Zealand and its huge-antlered red stag, but the species has been available all along right here in the US at Missouri’s High Adventure Ranch.

(HIGH ADVENTURE RANCH)

As befitting the Ozarks, the ranch’s “most popular deer hunt” is for whitetails, and the place is “loaded” with eight-plus-pointers. (HIGH ADVENTURE RANCH)

But what if I told you there was a place right here in the United States that you could drive to and hunt those same animals, along with many other African, South American and even big game animals of the Rocky Mountains, all in a mild climate and complete with a hunting lodge that serves great food?

All of this is found at High Adventure Ranch, located in the Ozark Mountains of Missouri.

I RECENTLY HAD THE opportunity to talk

with Charles Puff, founder and ranch owner, and our conversation quickly turned to why he established his ranch back in 1983 with so many game animals.

Puff admitted that, like most hunters, his passion for the outdoors start-

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COMPANY PROFILE ed when he was young. At age 9, his neighbor took him out hunting and by age 12, “There were only three things I wanted: to learn how to dance, how to swim and to kill a 100-pound elephant.”

Puff explained that a “100-pound” elephant meant taking a bull that had tusks weighing 100 pounds each. For me, it was a quick lesson in African hunting; for Puff, it was reminiscing about his life and the hunts he has been on. He did eventually do all three things, and the elephant drove his passion for hunting.

Wanting to bring those kinds of experiences to hunters in the US at an affordable price, Puff planned and formed High Adventure Ranch. Since then, the ranch has grown to over 30 big game species with an estimated population of 2,000 animals. Hunters from all over the world are now traveling to Missouri to hunt here, whether they are looking to go on an exotic hunting adventure or just want to hunt a game species not offered in their home state.

While enjoying the ranch, hunters

If horned critters are more your style, High Adventure Ranch features mouflon, Hawaiian and Corsican rams, along with Jacob’s four-horn sheep – sure to make a killer European mount. (HIGH ADVENTURE RANCH)

dine together in a large dining hall that serves the same game they will be hunting, such as buffalo chili, elk meatloaf and wild boar sausage. Cabins and a main lodge offer modern

Axis deer are considered by some to offer the best-tasting venison to be had, and they too can be hunted on this free-range operation that encompasses over 2,000 acres in rolling hills two hours southwest of St. Louis. (HIGH ADVENTURE RANCH)

accommodations, and the hunts are all free-range on the ranch’s massive acreage which covers 3 square miles of open land. Along with the hunt, there are several ponds and lakes that family members can fish if they don’t want to pursue game. And once your hunt is over, the ranch offers full-service meat cutting, including vacuum-sealing the meat and keeping it in a walk-in cooler until it’s time to head back home.

During the early and late summer months, High Adventure Ranch offers family vacations that include a tour of the ranch where you can see some of the animals that call this place home, all in a freerange environment. Axis and sika deer, blackbuck, wild boar, nyla, kudu, eland and many more animals are often seen in the early morning or late evening hours heading to water at the many lakes, all of which are stocked with fish and no fishing license is needed. They do close during the very hot summer months of mid-June to mid-July for maintenance on the ranch.

IT IS THE HUNTING that Puff really prides himself on, especially the hunts that are donated to the Wounded Warrior Project, along with other hunts offered to military veterans and disabled hunters.

As we chatted about these hunts, Puff’s voice cracked a bit, explaining how help68

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COMPANY PROFILE ing wounded vets is something he is very passionate about.

“My brother was a marine and killed over there in Vietnam,” he said. “That’s the reason why I started donating hunts to vets; he was always foremost on my mind.”

It was his dedication to honoring his brother that led High Adventure Ranch to offer hunts to disabled veterans, but Puff admits that now it is the hunt and seeing how it helps the veterans that really gets to him. “When those hunts are over, you never forget them,” he added.

High Adventure Ranch has been around for nearly 40 years, and is established with top-notch guides and staff.

“One of my ranch managers has been working here for 39 years,” Puff explained, and added that many of the staff have worked at the ranch for a very long time.

When he started the ranch in 1983, he knew of only one other ranch in Texas with the kind of hunts that High Adventure Ranch offers. A very unique thing that this ranch promises is the “no game, no pay” guarantee. If you book a hunt with High Adventure Ranch and you don’t fill your tag, then you don’t pay the

Hunters enjoy very high success rates, with trophy whitetail typically taking two days or less, but High Adventure Ranch also has a “no game, no pay” guarantee.

Should you not harvest or wound an animal, the trophy fee is waived and you only pay for lodging, food, guide, license and sales tax. (HIGH ADVENTURE RANCH)

Nearby Arkansas is home to the Razorbacks, but the ranch has the huntable kind.

(HIGH ADVENTURE RANCH)

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trophy fee. Not many other places offer that kind of promise.

Along with the fact that the ranch is CWD-free – unlike many states – there is no worry of a draw or a license and tag being sold out. Puff explained that many hunters head out West for elk, only to find little public access, highpriced over-the-counter tags or a draw system where you might not even get a tag, and a low overall success rate. High Adventure Ranch offers world-class elk hunting or a cow “meat” hunt – and again, if you don’t fill your tag, you don’t pay – but they also boast a 100-percent

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success rate on their elk hunts for the past 37 years.

It all started when Charles Puff was 12 and he had three wishes: learning to dance, swim and kill a 100-pound elephant. Now he offers hunts to those looking for an adventure or to finally harvest a 200-inch whitetail. Maybe take the family for a vacation or to honor our veterans. You will find it all at High Adventure Ranch in the Ozark Mountains of Missouri. ASJ Editor’s note: For more information, visit highadventureranch.com.