FIELD

Cable ties hold grass, or camo mesh, tight to the panel. When on the hunt, simply lay cover on the blind to fill in holes and create a depth of field.

ground for stabilization. Use a finished piece of wood from home, grab one from a tree or get some driftwood. To make a second blind from the remaining panel, cut the cross wire o the bottom to create 8-inch protruding legs.

Get a package of 8-inch, 75-poundrated cable ties to secure camo netting to the blind. A pack of 100 ties can be picked up for under $10. It takes 16 ties to camo the panel.

There are two options to cover the panel. One, wrap the panel in camo mesh and secure it around the edges and middle using the cable ties. I like using burlap instead of leafy, flimsy material that will get shredded in Alaska’s winds. I picked up a 5-by-10-foot section of camo mesh online for $10. Leave a foot or two of mesh hanging over the sides of the panel to round the edges, which will also hide you and your dog. This is my preferred camo option because it allows the blind to easily be transported and covered with natural vegetation, once afield.

Another camo cover option is to use dry grass or brush, which can be secured directly to the panel. If going this route, be sure to match the blind cover with the habitat you’ll be hunting in.

Once at your hunting location, pull from the natural vegetation and add it to the blind. Grab handfuls of green grass, brown grass or whatever brush the blind is situated in, and scatter it atop the mesh or existing grass on the blind. If it’s dry and windy, you may need to get some of the cover wet and place that atop the blind so it stays in place.

If choosing to secure grass to the panel, first cable tie a foot or so of camo netting or burlap across the top of the blind. This camo strip will help conceal your face and hand movement when calling, which can be invaluable on sunny days.

Weighing less than 10 pounds, the panel blind is easy to carry. This is a mobile blind designed for moving to and hunting the X. If the wind changes, the sun angle is wrong or birds start working the other end of a pond, slough or field, simply pick up the blind and move. Several times last season I moved two or three times in a morning to get to where ducks were working. I killed a number of geese from this little blind too.

Along with the blind I usually take a dozen floater decoys and a few dozen silhouettes. Going light the whole way around allows for quick and easy moves, plus adjustments can be made on the fly.

The biggest challenge when hunting from this blind is getting a shot. Because you’re usually laying down, it can be hard to sit up, twist, turn and follow ducks. If it’s muddy, a pad will help keep from sliding around in your waders – I sit on my decoy bag – or you can cover the ground in grass or weeds and sit on that. Because movement can be restricted, let the birds work into the decoys in front of you in order to maximize shot opportunities.

Repair any holes in the blind and add cover as needed as the day and season progresses. I’ll take this small, mobile blind that puts me on the X over roomy, fixed blinds, especially when I can make it on the cheap. ASJ

Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s bestsellers, visit scotthaugen.com. Follow Scott on Instagram and Facebook.