Milwaukee Magazine | Dining Extra 2013

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pickled red onion, capers, chive flowers, lemon zest and olive oil. Of course, some things never change, such as the saltimbocca or the meatballs in tomato sauce over angel-hair pasta (great-grandmother’s recipe).

“One dish we’ve had on the menu since the beginning is our eggplant appetizer,” notes Teresa. “It’s thinly sliced and pan fried, then rolled with ricotta, bread crumbs and tomato sauce.”

At the pasta-driven Centro Cafe in Riverwest, head chef A.J. Dixon makes a point of accommodating dietary restrictions, offering guests a good choice of gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options. “We get our lasagna and fusilli from Madison’s RP’s Pasta Company,” she notes. “I have gone through a lot of different products to find one that tastes good, and you wouldn’t know theirs are gluten free unless someone told you.” Centro’s larder also contains such locally sourced ingredients as beef from

“WE TRY TO COME UP WITH SOMETHING NEW EVERY WEEK.” – DAVE MOHORKO, VIA DOWNER Richway Acres and sausage from Scardinia Specialties. Centro’s most popular dishes include homemade gnudi, butternut squash lasagna and flatbread pizza done with duck sausage, fontina, mushrooms and arugula.

Chef Dave Mohorko isn’t afraid to step beyond the roster of plates you’d expect to see in an Italian eatery at Via Downer.

He’s served up blackened salmon with Cajun seasonings and a West African peanut soup. “We try to come up with something new every week,” says Mohorko. “For example, I’ve done an osso buco with berbere, the Ethiopian spice mix that includes dried chili pepper, cardamom, paprika, ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon.” Additional entrees include Tuscan chicken, beef spiedini and fettuccine with sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, spinach and basil.

Whether it’s pizza, pasta, a simple caprese salad or something more substantial, get out and grab yourself a little of la dolce vita.

It’s not hard to do in this town. n Milwaukee Magazine | DINING EXTRA 2013 |

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NORTH CITY/NORTH SHORE: (bounded by Edgewood Avenue, the Milwaukee city line and Grafton): Anaba Tea Room • Cafe 1505 • Chancery Pub & Restaurant • City Market • COA • Devon Seafood Grill • The Farmstead • First Watch • Harry’s Bar & Grill • Highland House • Jack Pandl’s Whitefish Bay Inn • Joey Gerard’s • Mr. Perkins’ Family Restaurant • Nines at The River Club • North Star American Bistro • NSB Bar and Grill • Range Line Inn • River Lane Inn • Solly’s Grille • Zaffiro’s Pizzeria & Bar SOUTH CITY: (Fifth Ward, Walker’s Point and points south): American Serb Memorial Hall • Barnacle Bud’s • Botanas • Braise Restaurant & Culinary School • Branded at the Iron Horse Hotel • The Buffet (Potawatomi) • Cafe El Sol • Chancery Pub & Restaurant • Chez Jacques • Christie’s Pub & Grill • c.1880 • Classic Slice • Crazy Water • Dream Dance Steak • Fire Pit Sports Bar & Grill • Ginger • Hamburger Mary’s • Honeypie • Hué Vietnamese Restaurant & Lounge • INdustri Café • La Fuente • La Merenda • La Perla • LuLu Cafe & Bar • Motor • The National Cafe and Takeaway • The Noble • Odd Duck • Old Town Serbian Gourmet House • Oscar’s Pub & Grill • Palomino • Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar • Polonez • Riviera Maya • RuYi • Smyth • The Soup Market • Stack’d • Tenuta’s • Thai Bar-B-Que • Three Brothers • Transfer Pizzeria Cafe • Triskele’s • Twisted Fisherman Crab Shack • Wild Earth Cucina Italiana • Zak’s Cafe SOUTH, SOUTHWEST SUBURBS: (bounded by the Milwaukee city line and the Waukesha and Racine county lines): Antigua Latin Restaurant • Boerner Botanical Gardens • Crawdaddy’s • 4th Base • Fujiyama Sushi & Hibachi • Jalapeno Loco • Japanica • Joey Gerard’s • The Packing House • Ricardo’s • Sheridan’s • Singha Thai • South Woods of Cudahy • Trattoria di Carlo Pizzeria WEST CITY, WAUWATOSA: (bounded by 27th Street, Capitol Drive, I-94 and the Waukesha County line): Allgauer’s in the Park • Balistreri’s Bluemound Inn • Balistreri’s Italian American Ristorante • Blue’s Egg • Cafe Hollander • Cafe Perrin • Chancery Pub & Restaurant • City Market • Eddie Martini’s • Firefly Urban Bar & Grill • Ginza Japanese Restaurant • Il Mito Enoteca • Juniper 61 • Le Rêve Patisserie & Cafe • Maggiano’s Little Italy • Maxie’s Southern Comfort • McBob’s Pub & Grill • McCormick & Schmick’s • Meritage • Milwaukee Steakhouse • Open Hearth • Pizzeria Piccola • P.F. Chang’s China Bistro • Ristorante Bartolotta • Saz’s • Tandoor Restaurant

OUTLYING COUNTIES OZAUKEE COUNTY: Beanies Mexican Restaurant • Dockside Deli • Newport Shores KENOSHA COUNTY: Mangia RACINE COUNTY: Chancery Pub & Restaurant • Jose’s Blue Sombrero • Sebastian’s SHEBOYGAN COUNTY: Blackwolf Run Restaurant • Cucina • Il Ritrovo • The Immigrant • Trattoria Stefano WASHINGTON COUNTY: Johnny Manhattans • La Chimenea • Timmer’s Resort WAUKESHA COUNTY: Antigua Real Restaurant • Andrew’s (at the Delafield Hotel) • Bravo! Cucina Italiana • Butler Inn of Pewaukee • Cafe Manna • Cafe One24 • Chancery • 8-twelve MVP Bar & Grill • First Watch • Fishbone’s • Fleming’s Steakhouse & Wine Bar • Generations at Five Points Cafe & Lounge • Golden Mast • Jake’s Burger • Jake’s Restaurant • Joey’s Seafood and Grill • Jose’s Blue Sombrero • Kurt’s Steakhouse • Lagniappe Brasserie • Louise’s Trattoria • Mr. B’s: A Bartolotta Steakhouse • Mr. Wok • Meiji Cuisine • Mitchell’s Fish Market • Original Pancake House • Palmer’s Steak House • Parkside 23 (PS 23) • Penelope’s • The Red Circle Inn • Silver Spur Texas Smokehouse BBQ • Slim McGinn’s West • Spinnaker’s • StoneFire Pizza Co. • Taste of India • Tony & Mia’s • Trysting Place Pub • The Union House • Wasabi Sushi Lounge • Water Street Brewery • Weissgerber’s Gasthaus Inn • Weissgerber’s Seven Seas ■

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