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milla banti student id: 20021445 bcs fashion management product management name of tutor: heather delaney word count: 2241

“ I, Simon Porte Jacquemus, certifiy that this is Milla Banti’s original piece of work. All sources and citations have been acknowledged. No section of this report has been plagiarised. ”

TABLE OF

CONTENT

project introduction

(p.3-8)

part 0: brand introduction

a. b. c. d.

(p. 9-20)

brand story (p. 9-12) brand mughsots (p. 13-14) simon porte jacquemus’s story brand performance (p.17-18)

(p.15-16)

part 1: market research & analysis a. competition analysis

(p.21-63)

(p. 22-26)

i. comparative shop (p. 23-24) ii. brand positioning map (p.25-26) b. consumer analysis

(p .27-34)

i. customer profile & pen portrait (p.29-30) ii. psychographic profile graph (p.31-32) iii. survey results (p.33-34) c. trend analysis – spring summer 2022 (p.35-62) i. key themes (p. 39-42) ii. aspirational catwalk collections (p.43-46) iii. style icons (p.47-50) iv. street style photography (p.51-54) v. design focus (p. 55-62) part 2: planning (p.63-70) a. swot analysis (p.65-68)

b. trend translation (p.69-70) i. capsule collection name ii. colour palette iii. key prints and graphics iv. key fabrics v. key product shapes part 3: range assortment development (p.71-83) a. a balanced product range

(p.73-79)

i. product classification (p.74-75) ii. pricing attribute (p 76-77) iii. pricing architecture (p 78-79) b. range plan

(p. 80-83)

part 4: sourcing strategy (p. 84-89) part 5: range visualisation: look book concluding summary appendices

(p.90-109)

(p.110-111)

(p.112-140)

a. swot analysises (p.114-117) b. comparative shop templates reference list

(p. 141-143)

(p. 118-140)

introduction

The aim of this project is to propose a sustainable capsule collection for the brand Jacquemus. The full SS22 product range aligns with the prospected trends and appeals to the brand’s customer profile. Given the complexity of the current global supply chain environment, the report has been divided into several parts. This report includes a market, consumer and trend analysis; a detailed range plan of the future collection, as well as its sourcing strategy. The look book offers a visualization of nine outfits; accessories, bags and shoes included. After gaining insightful product management knowledge through my online classes have I been able to eventually start my project. Most research was meticulously conducted online, given the current context with the global pandemic. The closure of non-essential stores in Paris and London made it difficult to regularly analyze the brand’s store layout and visual merchandizing. An online survey was conducted as face-to-face interaction does not respect social distancing. Nevertheless, I was able to interact with some sellers by visiting the department store Selfridges. As part of my secondary research, online business databases, sector-orientated magazines, academic journals as well as press-release photography were solely used. 4

introducti

“ Je m’appelle Simon, j’aim rayures, le soleil, les fruits, Marseille et le

(JACQUEMUS | Offic

“My name is Simon, I love stripes, the sun, fruits, cir and th

ion

me le bleu et le blanc, les , les ronds, la vie, la poésie, es années 80. ”

cial website, 2020)

e the color blue and white, rcles, life, poetry, Marseille he 80s.”

A concise but in-depth analysis of the brand’s story and background beforehand is deliberate. It is important to propose a cohesive SS22 collection that aligns with the brand’s ethos and identity. Overviewing the previous collections and getting a grasp of the creative director’s work ethics is crucial before offering something new on the market. The sustainable capsule collection for SS22 will inspire itself from Simon Porte’s Jacquemus previous work. Analyzing the brand’s KPI will assure rationality in terms of product design.

brand story

Jacquemus is an independent French luxury brand founded in Paris in 2006. The designer and creative director Simon Porte Jacquemus offers modern and fashion-forward products, including womenswear, menswear, jewelry, leather goods and accessories. (JACQUEMUS | Official website, 2021).

The brand’s success story took off in 2015, after the designer won an LVMH prize (Yaeger, 2018). The brand’s strong media presence and ability to decoy an ethereal aesthetic of the lavish ‘Jacquemus’s lifestyle’ generates great media interest. Competing with houses that are pillars of the industry such as Chanel or Dior, the emerging brand is slowly becoming a staple. Its renown best-seller such as the Chiquito bag is desirable and has become ‘a must’ for fashion lovers. Jacquemus engrosses the younger generation, millennials and Gen Z, by constantly interacting on social media. The brand has a strong media presence. Despite the lack of any corporate backing, the brand observes a never ceasing fast pace growth and is implementing itself internationally.

An ‘ instagram account depicting a dream life of cheerful sexiness and shameless self-portraiture, along with a series of frisky runway shows, to spread his message’. (Yaeger, 2018)

mugshots

french girl young, alluring and fresh, age: in her mid 20s born: France role: muse of Jacquemus, inspiration for every collection of the brand

Simon Porte Jacquemus born: 16th january 1990, south of France age: 31 years old role: founder creative director

Province age: timeless place: south of France role: source of inspiration for Jacquemus; personified in almost every collection Jacquemus is a patriotic brand

Valerie Jacquemus role: simon porte jacquemus’s mother age: timeless, origin and essence of the brand the reason why Jacquemus started designing ‘light of his life’ (Björk, 2016)

Chiquito bag role: brand’s best-seller made of: 100% leather age: timeless/seasonless piece place: international, must have for savvy customers

the designer’s story the designer’s story the designer’s story

Simon Porte Jacquemus was born in Salon de Provence, in the countryside of south of France, where he had a carefree childhood. « I grew up in the fields, barefoot, free to play with the clothes» (Yaeger, 2018) His creative genius roots back to his early days. He would already be creating clothes by stitching together leftover fabrics, such as curtains from his house. In 2008 he moved to Paris, where he studied at ESMOD. (Björk, 2016) A few months later he loses his mother. This was a turning point for the designer. Aged 20 years old, despite the grief and trauma, this encouraged him to start his career. His early work is kept simple. His lack of resources inclined him towards minimalistic clothes as it was less costly to produce. For the first time in 2012 does Jacquemus get the opportunity to present his work for PFW. With no young emerging creators in the fashion scene at the time, his presence sparked great media attention. His LVMH prize in 2015 allowed the designer to be the renowned man he is today. His products can be found in worldwide famous stores such as Dover street market London, Les Printemps Paris… Simon Porte Jacquemus integrates in his work many art references, especially cinematographic ones. Many of his prints are inspired by the universe of Jacques Tati, a French filmmaker of the 80s or Louis Malle, a producer of the 60s. Aware of Social Media’s potential to build a strong community, the designer is present and active on many platforms. He will personally interact with his followers. This takes away from the prestigiousness aspect of a luxury brand, which can sometimes feel intimidating.

brand perf key perfor manc

nd ic or at

simplified joint stock company, sole shareholder duly organized and existing under the laws of France (JACQUEMUS | Official website, 2021) share capital of 76,000 euros (JACQUEMUS | Official website, 2021)

sales revenue of 11,529,472€ in 2018 (https://societeinfo.com/, 2021)

pr e a di

se nc e

Instagram (3.4 million followers) Tik Tok (170.3 k followers) Facebook (84 500 followers) visual autobiography with a sense of transparency, seems natural and non-calculated

69 R

onl

de Sa

formance d offices hea

eadquarters located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris

RUE DE MONCEAU 75008 PARIS

ly current office of the company

esigned by Till Duca Studio and amuel Bégis (nss magazine, 2021) inspired by Pierre Cardin (Eugénie Trochu, 2021)

ee y lo

currently 99 employees 14.7% growth in comparison to last year (Apollo.io, 2021)

m nu

r be

of stores

no individual store sells through 180 retailers

(JACQUEMUS | Official website, 2021)

internationally implemented, selling on every continent most retailers are in Paris, Milan, London

69 RUE DE MONCEAU 75008 PARIS

market research and analysis

competition analysis 22

comparative shop summary

The current given context has made it difficult to regularly visit stores of Jacquemus and its competitors. The analysis was based off the brand’s website and the stands in Selfridge’s. This deliberate choice is due to the fact that Jacquemus doesn’t yet have an individual physical store. The brand sells through retailers only, or through his website. Jacquemus’s main competitors are Celine and Acne Studios: they both have implemented themselves internationally and own flagship stores in every continent. The dissimilarities between these three brands’ SS21 collections are highlighted by visiting the same department store. Indeed, Jacquemus’s sales are mostly online driven. The product range on the website is a lot wider. Whereas the customer experience might be more complete in-store, the online shopping experience is deemed a lot more efficient, especially if the customer is looking for a product in particular. However, to furthermore push customers to buy, the brand could think of including more details about the products on their website. The size of the garment the model is wearing and technologies such as ‘fit visualizer’ could create an easier online shopping experience. There is a gap in the market for the brand. Jacquemus could seize the opportunity to open a flagship store, like its competitors. Otherwise, by simply improving the current size and layout of its stands at retailers’ stores, Jacquemus’s sales could potentially tremendously increase. Furthermore, it is a luxury brand who has the sufficient resources to implement itself globally. Nevertheless, Jacquemus has a strong brand identity. Through its process of storytelling and multiple immersive fashion shows has the brand gotten strong media coverage in comparison to its competitors. Being a young brand is intriguing and appealing, especially to the millennials and gen Z. This target customer usually looks for emerging brands with core values such as sustainability. Jacquemus’s collections are always best-sellers as they are trendsetting and not trend-following. They are an inspiration for high-street brands such as Zara and H&M, who won’t hesitate to steal from the designer’s creative integrity. The brand, in comparison to its competitors, has a strong value for money. The brand manages to produce high quality products that are more affordable than Celine and utilizes textiles that are cleaner, more ethical than Acne Studios.

brand positioning map

Jacquemus strategically locates itself in between the premium and luxury market. This allows double the number of potential customers. The brand is more affordable than most luxury brands (Chanel) but has better quality products than most premium brands (Sandro). Jacquemus has managed to implment itself and fill a gap within the fashion market. Jacquemus’s main competitors (Acne Studios, Celine) are located on the same area on the brand positioning map. Indeed, their brand values are similar. Similarly, they all have a relatively high entry price point. However, this is explained by the high quality and durability of their garments. Other brands on the map, regarldess their quality and entry price level, targets the same type of customers as Jacquemus: younger consumers, most often millenials. Whilst Jacquemus has a niche customer profile (high income millenials, gen Z mostly), other high-street brands such as Zara, will appeal to anybody. This is explained by the appealing low prices; price competitivity. Most mass market brands situated on this map, such as H&M, do not identify with Jacquemus’s brand identity. However, they remain one of the brands competitor as they will often steal and replicate replicating some of the brand’s designs.

high quality

Chanel Celine

Jacquemus Acne Studios Maison Cleo Gianni Arket

Sandro

Uniqlo affordable price

prestige price

Weekday H&M Zara

Urban Outfitters

low quality

consumer consumer consumer

r analysis r analysis r analysis

customer profile NAME: Camille Vincent AGE: 25 NATIONALITY: French GEOGRAPHIC lives in Europe, North of America, Asia mostly France, Paris or Saint Tropez mild temperature countries with distinct seasons, continental climate DEMOGRAPHICS independent millennial atheist, pre-family, DINKYS HEIDIS city sophisticates (ACORN STUCTURE, 2013) single to family formation stage PSYCHOGRAPHIC ‘The New Optimists’

(WGSN, Trend Forecasting & Analytics, 2020)

has her own art business start-up chic, enjoys travelling, playful spirit high education, very cultivated loves cinema and David Hockney bookworm, old soul with a playful spirit eats fresh Mediterannean food listens to Charles Aznavour hobbies: gardening, thrifting BUYING MOTIVES rarely buys out of impulse prefers timeless, unique pieces loyal customer looking for clothes with a story barely shops from high-street brands

“the jacquemus girl is a bit of a cliché, he laughs. she’s your typical french girl.” (Dazed, 2014)

psychographic profile graph WGSN defines four key sentiments for the future consumer of 2022, coming out of lockdown. Jacquemus’s typical customer overall sentiment could be defined as ‘equitable resilience’ (WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, 2020), with an underlining feeling of optimism as

well.

Pragmatic, these individuals are aligned with their emotions, which precludes any form of impulse buying. Sensitive to fashion, the Jacquemus consumer is curious to research the future upcoming trends and emerging designers on their own. A hobby of theirs, they will happily up-cycle, customize their own clothes as well. Savvy customers, they will try and avoid consuming fast fashion. Instead, they would rather go vintage shopping or thrifting.

the jacquemus consumer: -

in between innovator and early adopters would rather stand out and be trend-setters still enjoys their timeless/classical pieces buying habits: a few pieces per month, 3 to 5

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TREND AN TREND AN TREND AN

NALYSIS NALYSIS NALYSIS

SS22 SEASONAL TREND SUMMARY In an attempt to create a sustainable capsule collection that will sell to the typical Jacquemus customer, a SS22 trend analysis is inherent. Even though the French luxury brand is trendsetting and innovating, inspirations from the past and other art forms can be used to design garments. Therefore, the following trend analysis is more so an inspiration than a guideline for Jacquemus. No particular competitor’s SS22 shows will be included, unlike high-street brands, who, to survive, must follow the designs that are straight off the runway.

Imitating runway looks and selling them at a competitive price is the high street brands whole offer and competitive advantage. Instead, luxury brands will rather draw aspects from the past and appropriate styles to make it theirs.

key themes roaring twenties “It’s going to be a Gatsby-esque lockdown bounceback, with hedonism on an unprecedented level. (van, 2021)

After a year of staying at home in loungewear, customers are expected to increase their spending on occasion wear. As the lockdowns are lifting, people are wanting to socialize and dress up just like before. Covid-19 has ‘created the biggest disruption of everyday life since wartime’ (van, 2021). This makes it one of the most tragic events of the 21st century. The comparison to the roaring twenties is drawn as the period of festivity started at the end of the First World War. At the same time, the Spanish Plague was vanishing. Slip on dresses, feathers, transparency and embellishments are to be expected. (Lyst.com, 2020)

sustainability Lyst’s’ report ‘Year in Fashion 2020’ predicts a series of upcoming trends for Spring Summer 2022. With a rising demand for transparency, consumers are expecting from brands to increase their sustainability efforts. (Lyst.com, 2020).

open-mindedness The shift in consumer mindset will increase genderless shopping, where neutral and muted pieces are to be anticipated. (Lyst.com, 2020).

inclusive clothing With successful stories such as SKIMS maternity wear, brands are looking forward to fill the current gap in the market and produce maternity collections that will cater to any needs of women. (Lyst.com, 2020).

aspirational catwalk collections

Jean Paul Gaultier, spring couture 1997

Jeanne Lanvin, 1920s-1930s

Gabrielle Chanel and her early work in the 1920s, 1930s

Given the circular cycle of fash usually dig through the archiv from decades ago. Designers w industry are reliable sources o creatives will dr Jean Paul Gaultier and Chane brands. Jeanne Lanvin is a fam who made femininity somethin S22 trend predictions, this i inspire its These three brands are know occasion wear, with slick dr silhouette. This style is in l

hion trends, luxury brands will ves of emblematic collections who have become icons of the of inspirations. Usually, young raw from them. el are ‘musts’ of French luxury mous designer from the 1920s ng youthful. Given the current is a brand Jacquemus could self from. wn for creating extravagant resses that complement the line with SS22 predictions.

style icons

Laetitia Casta

Brigitte Bardot

“Everything was telling a story of this French girl—not the Parisian girl but the French girl”, tells Jacquemus in an article for Vogue. (Yaeger, 2018)

To align with the brand’s storyline, the style icons must be powerful women, whose style plays a big part in their identity construct. The narrative of ‘the French girl’ cannot be neglected as the designer bases his collections off of that stereotype, a so-called muse. Trend-setters, Laetitia Casta, a French supermodel and Brigitte Bardot embrace these entities and brand criteria’s with their effortless styles.

street style photography french girl

modern parisian

n style

fashion innovators

the Jacquemus customer is typi ‘innovators’ when it come psychographic

With a strong style identity, th certain trends have b

Through niche, fashion-forward sources of inspiration to curate lookout for the l

ically seen as ‘early adopters’ or es to plotting them on the c profile graph.

hese individuals do not wait till become mainstream.

d influencers do they find some their own outfits and are on the latest products.

design focus key prints mood bosting prints According to WGSN, consumers want to put an end to monotonous, chromatic colors. With the urge for festivities, celebratory prints promoting optimism is the central theme for SS22. Individuals are seeking individuality and artistry. Their aspiration to consume less challenges their wardrobe to be versatile with fewer garments. However, they still desire products with a trend longevity. Black and white prints, impressionist disties, small scale texture prints are to look out for. (Wgsn.com, 2021)

fossil find prints Fabrics that are inspired from the woods, sea and nature are expected to make a comeback. (Wgsn.com, 2021)

optical prints Emerging abstract prints are expected to replace the typical striped and checkerboard fabric prints (Wgsn.com, 2021). These optical prints are ideal for consumers who are looking to stand out.

graphic stamp Given that the color black was a hit on the SS21 runway, these prints are made for people who don’t enjoy color as much (Wgsn.com, 2021). This is an opportunity for brands to create seasonless designs that could be worn all year round.

key product shapes thin bright knits These trans seasonal pieces, ideal for layering are making a comeback for SS22. Bright knits are looking to uplift the mood. These products can be dressed for special occasions and worn at festivals during summer. (Wgsn.com, 2021)

ruched shirt dress After a year of loungewear and oversized outfits, consumers are inclined to purchase silhouette fitting garments. The ruching makes the dress complement any body type and creates a subversive sexy under tone, a key trend for dresses in SS22 (Wgsn.com, 2021)

maxi cardigan This is a combination of the long slick dresses and thin knits that are as well making a comeback. (Wgsn.com, 2021) A garment that resembles the robe coat, these long cardigans make any outfit look effortlessly chic.

resort retro shirt This is a genderless cut, easy and versatile silhouette template that brands can appropriate. Paired with floral trendy prints, this becomes a mood boosting, holiday-feel product. (Wgsn.com, 2021)

flares These semi-tailored trousers are planning to be a hit according to WGSN. Its chic yet comfortable cut is ideal for consumers who are in between leisure and working lifestyles. (Wgsn.com, 2021)

key materials Comfortable and breathable materials will be at the heart of SS22 material trends. The rising interest for dressier looks is counter-balanced by the need for people to feel at ease in their clothes. (Wgsn.com,2021) There has been rapid growth of recycled fibres (+88% for cotton in the UK) and a strong demand for upcycled and sustainable fabrics according to WGSN. Hence the increasing look out for materials such as recycled or biodegradable polyesters, nylons and cottons. - micro seersuckers - dimensional waffles - bouclé yarns - natural linen, cotton, hemp and cellulosic into separates for layering as alternatives to suiting and outerwear (Wgsn.com,2021) - linen to make tailoring comfortable a cult of jacquemus brand - satins and sheer in correlation to the rising demand for party/occasion wear (Wgsn.com,2021) joyful checks A material that aligns with the cottage core trend that does not cease. Adapted to SS22 with bright colours for that uplifting mood customers are seeking.

key colors WGSN predict an optimistic, cheerful color palette in correlation to the steady end of the global pandemic and summer. The tones of this color scheme are driven off of the desire to be uplifted and energized, whilst staying grounded (WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, 2020) This idea of ‘rebirth’, given the current global context, will set the trend for colors such as raw tones, grouping of pinks, purples, browns, root green as well as nature infused colors (dark browns, greens, honey oranges) (Wgsn.com,2021) There is a contrast between these nurturing, easy to wear tones and these invigorating, loud colors for those who are looking for escapism.

Orchid Flower Coloro: 150-38-31 Olive Oil Coloro: 044-52-13 Butter Coloro: 040-86-20 Mango Sorbet Coloro: 030-67-34 Atlantic Blue Coloro: 115-35-20

planning

swot analysis Some key recurring themes are discerned from these analyses. Jacquemus and its competitors face similar potential threats. These fashion-forward luxury houses are alluring to other high-street brands, who often will steal from the designers, putting at risk their creative integrity. Since the start of the global pandemic, with lower disposable income, consumers have the tendency to buy less luxury items. (Mintel.com, 2020) Nevertheless, Jacquemus’s choice to host an immersive fashion show, with international guests allowed the showstopping outfits to receive strong media coverage. The high visibility of his collection is a strong advantage for the brand in comparison to its competitors who didn’t make this strategic choice. Furthermore, Jacquemus’s lower entry-price point and inclusive sizing range allows the brand to have a broad customer reach. Acne Studios shares similar values and brands ethics as Jacquemus. This makes Acne Studios a strong competitor. Art-orientated, their collections both include niche references. This allows the brands to gain loyal customers, who get a sense of ‘belonging to a community’ when purchasing an item. In comparison to Jacquemus, the Swedish brand had less looks to offer this season but a more balanced bottom to top ratio. Jacquemus’s advantage of having desirable ‘it products’ could be seen as an opportunity to create an extension of the Chiquito bag, a current best-seller. Creating variations of the bag and declining it into other forms is an interesting opening.

The ‘typical French girl’ is a recurring muse for Jacquemus and Celine, an ideal depicted throughout their collections. Owned by LVMH, Celine is a ‘must’ of the fashion luxury sector. The brand uses high-end materials to produce garments, such as alligator leather. Jacquemus prefers ‘unpretentious fabrics’, such as linen and cotton. The brand is also opting for an ethical production of collections. The designer has chosen to produce only two collections per year, an astonishingly lower number than its competitors. This allows the brand to lean towards a mindful production cycle. Creating a full-upcycled collection, just like Acne Studios previously did, is an opportunity Jacquemus could seize. This would allow the brand to lean towards a circular economy business strategy. Jacquemus produces concept driven collections whereas Celine focuses on the commerciality aspect of one. With many diverse looks created by Hedi Slimane, the collection does not feel as fashion-forward as Jacquemus’s. However, by putting forward modernized timeless pieces, the brand assures itself a high profit margin. With a collection curated for men and women as well as a balance between summer and transitional products, Jacquemus’s collection appeals to the target customer. With online driven sales, the brand hasn’t yet opened a flagship store, unlike its competitors. By not offering a unique luxurious shopping experience in an immersive store, the brand misses out on a huge benefit percentage.

trend translation Luxury brands’ tendency to draw from the past explains the following decision: Jacquemus’s SS22 collection will be based off the predominant style of the roaring twenties. This cultural trend of hedonism, similar to a century ago, is predicted to be global and multidimensional (Lyst.com, 2020). These iconic 1920 styles will be adapted to suit other SS22 trends. Versatile products for leisure or work are offered, such as thin crochet knits, maxi cardigans and oversized blazers. Linen, a brand’s classic as well as bouclé yarn, cotton and other materials will be sustainably sourced to produce this collection. Nevertheless, the central theme of the 1920s brings a concept to the collection. This is unneglectable for the designer Simon Porte Jacquemus and his work. The whole capsule collection will be ethically produced, more so knowing that 38,1% estimate that sustainability is crucial when purchasing luxury items (jacquemus survey, 2021). These numbers are based off the primary research I have conducted.

The collection’s range of products is mostly destined for occasion wear, given the forthcoming festivities. Ranging from slick black dresses to transparent gowns with embellishments, this collection will meet the rising need for party wear. Genderless pieces such as flares and retro shirts with bold prints will be included. The survey indicates a preference for muted colours. Nevertheless, based of SS22 trend predictions, some bright and colourful pieces will be included as well, to please a wide range of potential consumers. This concept-based collection called ‘nuit d’été’ (summer nights) will depict the evening of an alluring French woman who is getting ready for her summer night out. Given that the Jacquemus customers are ‘innovators’ or ‘early adopters’ to trends, the collection aims to be fashion-forward. Some entry price products will present commercial driven designs, in order to increase the brand’s potential sales.

range assortme range assortme

ent development ent development

a balanced product range

good

better

best

these entry price products are at a higher entry price level than Jacquemus’s previous collections. Sustainably sourced with high end quality materials, the making of this collection is more costly. Hence the higher entry price level. ‘Good’ products have the potential to become a band’s best-seller, hence the color declination of the ‘le sac croissant de lune’, to optimize the potential sales profit. The purchase of these core products is the start to the building of a loyal clientele.

this collection includes mostly ‘better’ products. These mid-range priced products are mostly casual pieces. the better products are easy to sell and might appeal to a wider audience. This gives the opportunity to drag the largest possible customer segment and is a good transition between good and best products.

with only a few ‘best’ pieces in each product category, these few fashion-forward products stand out from the collection. They are however a minority as their higher price point and more intricate designs hinder the commerciality aspect of them. It is usually expected that these will be less of best-sellers. These high-fashion products are the symbols of the collection.

classic

basic

fashion

hero

dresses

tops

bottoms

product classification

two-piece set

blazers

bags

shoes

accessories product type

entry 30

entry 90

mid 340 mid 430

pricing attribute

exit 2190

SS21

exit 1200

SS22

The SS22 collection, ‘nuit d’été’’ offers a wide product range but with little depth. The choice to offer a variety of styles and cuts rather than a variety of colors of one same product is voluntary. However, the ‘sac croissant de lune’ aims to become a best-seller, just like the chiquito bag. Hence its offer in two different bright color ways. The entry, mid, exit price products are distinct. Whilst the ‘good’ products are more appropriate for casual wear, ‘best’ products are luxurious and extravagant. ENTRY/GOOD The increased material costs for the sustainable collection explains the increase to the triple for SS22, in comparison to SS21. MID/BETTER The mid price products for SS22 are reasonably priced, for an optimized customer reach. EXIT/BEST Exit prices are lower than SS21 to incite people into consuming sustainable products. This also equilibrates with the mid prices that are higher.

LAUNCH DATES 3 different parts to the launch of collection with three distinct dates to build up hype and consumer anticipation. Done by order of seasonality with transitional products first, spring summer, and then summer beachwear last. The accessories, bags and shoes will be divided evenly throughout the 3 launches. -15th February 2022 -15th March 2022 -5th of April 2022

dresses

tops

bottoms

two-piece set

1 200 790 620 520 505 450 440 430 405 390 380 360 330

pricing architecture

blazers

bags

shoes

accessories

810 680

550 550 540 500

470 470 430

420

370

320 310

340 320 310

280 250 160 140 130 120 110 90

range plan range plan range plan

sourcing strategy

Jacquemus requires premium quality textiles and craftmanship for the collection, even for the core products. With a value-based pricing strategy, the French brand can sell products at a high price point. This is due to the strong brand prestige, identity and storytelling. The brand does not disclose any information on their sourcing, production and transportation strategies. The website offers the possibility to know the country where a product was manufactured. (JACQUEMUS | Official website, 2021) The cost and retail selling price are estimated off of the typical margin intake for luxury brands. This usually ranges between 70-90%, depending on the fashionability of the product. Due to the low quantities and high-cost prices of hero products, the intake margins for these fashion products are lower than the basic products who are expected to be best-sellers. With economies of scale being made by producing bigger quantities of these core products, a higher intake margin is expected. The balance between price, quality, sustainability and speed to market for the manufacturing of this collection will allow the brand to optimize its profit, whilst staying true to its ethics.

Jacquemus’s attempt to be sustainable is translated through its slower, more mindful production of collections. Unlike its competitors in the luxury market, Jacquemus has made the mindful decision to only put out two collections a year (Isaac-Goizé, 2020). The current manufacturing of its products originates from countries of Eastern, Western Europe as well as Turkey. Globally, Jacquemus can be considered as an environmentally conscious brand, with an ethical supply chain. The SS22 collection will be sourced, produced and manufactured in Western, Eastern Europe as well as Turkey, just like the brand’s previous collections. This is a sustainable initiative as producing in China or other Asian countries would reduce the cost prices and thus increase the intake margins. However, Jacquemus has the sufficient resources to deliver high-quality garments that have a low carbon footprint impact. The lower lead time and carbon cost will allow the SS22 products to be delivered on time for the three launch dates: 15th of February, 15th of March and 5th of April. These widely English spoken countries are more expensive in comparison to locations further afield.

Choosing different suppliers reduces potential risk. This specialization allows each product to be expertly produced by countries that have their own expertise. This will allow the production of a high-quality collection. However, having a broad supply range reduces the potential for Jacquemus to negotiate prices. If not organized correctly, this could also easily become difficult to manage. Whilst suppliers from Portugal alongside Spain and Romania, will be producing the denim products as well as most tops and bottoms, Italy will focus on the making of the exit price products, leather goods and jewelry. The lower lead time, dropping because of Covid-19, entices suppliers to be closer to infrastructure in order to give them a competitive advantage. The proximity with these countries will as well lower the import duty. The low carbon footprint impact of the manufacturing process complements the deliberate choice of choosing ethical materials, textiles and prints. Cruelty-free materials such as mushroom leather; plant-based fibers such as organic cotton, linen or hemp; and materials with a low environmental impact such as lyocell, Tencel and sustainable viscose are used in this collection. These two factors will allow this SS22 Jacquemus collection to align with the SDG goals, especially the number 12 which is ‘responsible consumption and production’ (Un.org, 2015).

given the wide range of the collection, is hereby included the cost price and intake margin calculation of a few selected products from ‘nuit d’été’ for SS22. For an in-depth view of the cost price, retail selling price and intake margin of every product of this collection, see the range plan in the appendix (p. ……)

lookbook lookbook lookbook lookbook lookbook lookbook

nuit d’été nuit d’été

JACQUEMUS SPRING SUMMER 2022 SUSTAINABLE CAPSULE COLLECTION

After a day at the beach You’re left slightly sunburnt. Your sun kissed hair complements your tanned complexion The dainty smell of monoï and after sun cream lingers in the air. Fresh out of the shower, After barely throwing on some makeup, You’re watching the sunset with a glass of wine; Ready to put on your outfit for your memorable ‘nuit d’été’.

CAMILLE outfit n.1

linen crop top PINK le haut bonbon £330 linen trousers PINK le pantalon Nice £450 Heeled sandals ORANGE les sandales Gordes £420 silk twill scarf PINK/ORANGE foulard babushka £160 nylon shoulder bag BLACK Le sac Noche £420 tinted sunglasses PINK/ BLACK lunettes coup de soleil £280

oversized suit jacket GREY veste nuit étoilée £680 slip on long dress la robe 1920 GREEN £790

shell earrings ORANGE earrings coquillages £110 round shoulder bag PINK sac croissant de lune £500

chunky sandals ORANGE sandales noeuds £470

VALERIE outfit n.2

LEA outfit n.3

striped sweater BEIGE pull calin £380 high waisted trousers GREEN pantalon lac £430 heeled sandals BROWN/WHITE sandales Gordes £430 shoulder strap bag GREEN sac Bonifacio £310 charm chain belt GOLD le porte bonheur £250

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retro shirt GREEN chemise Capri £405

coin necklace GOLD collier monnaie £160

long baggy shorts GREEN short Capri £440

chunky flat sandals ORANGE sandales riviera £320

bandana PLAID bandeau turban £90

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NOEMIE outfit n.4

JADE outfit n.5 silk twill blouse PATTERN chemise illusion £360 silk twill trousers PATTERN chemise illusion £520 heeled mules GREEN/BLACK mules nuit d’été £310

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chain necklace collier agenté £110 shoulder bag FLORAL sac Juventud £540

LAETITIA outfit n.6 denim dress ORANGE la robe solaire £390

rectangle sunglasses ORANGE lunettes zénith £270

heeled sandals BLACK/ORANGE sandales agrumes £370

shoulder bag YELLOW sac croissant de lune £500

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CAROLINE outfit n.7 linen blazer BEIGE la veste lin £810

slip on mules BLUE mules province £340

linen flared trousers BEIGE le pantalon lin £505

tote bag sac clair de lune £550

rectangle sunglasses BLUE lunettes moonlight £260

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chunky chain necklace GOLD chaine chunky £110

JEANNE outfit n.8 long dress FLORAL robe fatale £1200 bow tie sandals BROWN sandales chocolat £470 long earrings SILVER boucles d’oreilles chaines £130 chunky ring SILVER bague héritage £100

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INES outfit n.9

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transparent two piece set BLUE ensemble nymphe £620 chunky gold ring GOLD bague pépite d’or £90 bag charm accessory GOLD fruit sucré charms £120 heeled sandals GREEN PATTERN sandales Gordes £430 strap phone bag BROWN PATTERN bandoulière féroce £320 chunky fantasy hoops BLUE créoles crépuscules £140

manufactured ethically in Italy, Romania, Bulgaria, Spain

our focus

a capsule collection that aligns with SS22 trend predictions and adheres to SDG 12

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address

Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, London W1C 1JS

website

https://www.jacquemus.com

contact details

+33 (0)1 42 99 61 70 boutique@jacquemus.com

social media @jacquemus instagram

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conclusion

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The aim of this project was to propose a sustainable capsule collection that would align with the Sustainable Development Goal number 12: responsible consumption and production. Whilst respecting the prospected Spring Summer 2022 trend predictions from WGSN, the collection ‘nuit d’été’ is entirely ethical. Manufactured in Europe with natural and plant-based textiles; this product range has managed to successfully offer modern cuts and styles that will appeal to the typical Jacquemus customer profile. This concept-based collection based off the roaring twenties meets the rising demand for outerwear. It has the characteristics to be a best-seller, once launched.

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appendices

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swot - jacquemus strengths -

held an immersive cohesive fashion show amazing storytelling, strong message to consumer harmonious balance between tops, dresses, skirts and bottoms menswear and womenswear yet still some unisex pieces muted timeless colours and seasonless pieces inclusive sizing: sizing ranges from 32 to 46 (equivalent to a UK sizing range 4-18) ethical production of collections collection marketed on social media platforms (Facebook, tik tok, Instagram) natural fabrics and responsible methods of production made in Europe stocks in almost all sizes on website (few products sold out for sizes 32 and 46) lower price point entry compared to its main competitors

weaknesses - little colours - still niche for the luxury market - storytelling leads to a bucolic collection (very niche) - some niche references, Picasso prints and motifs and Emir Kursturica's film, Time of the Gypsies, and its dreamlike realism. - unpretentious fabrics -> could forget the luxury side of brand - no flagship or own physical store, selling online or through retailers - free shipping only when above 450 euros spent - a lot of transitional products (textiles, fabrics and garments focused for summer) - concept collections lead to designing clothes around a theme (little diversity in terms of color choices and prints as they all have to harmoniously symbiose and respect a certain theme)

- pants don’t sell as well, told a seller - smallest and largest sizes often sold out online on the website

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opportunities - made it a sustainable collection (re-cycling, up-cycling) - extended the line to some shoewear as well - more prints and patterns - for higher commercial rate and from a selling point of view, could have followed more attentively SS21 trends - created variations of the Chiquito (bags, earring) as it is one of his best-selling pieces - chiquito bags and accessories are selling well as well as the linen dresses - exclusive VIP online sales for loyal customers, those with registered account - open a temporary pop-up store for new collection - open a store - size range extension: up to a French size 48 (equivalent to a UK 20) - made it more fashion-forward - made in France for even lower carbon footprint impact

threats - overwhelmingcollection in comparison to its competitors, too many things shown (accessories, bags, belts, clothes, hats menswear as well) - democratization of luxury through his young brand might be dangerous: could lose credibility amongst experts and be compared to other lower end brands - covid-19 limiting the brand’s possibility for fashion shows, something the house strongly relies on to market to their customers - must stick to the current selling price point -> if raised, would lose a big chunk of its customers competitors have flagship and individual stores, with unique and luxurious shopping-experience unlike jacquemus - many copycats from high street brands, easily imitate jacquemus designs, steal from his creative integrity

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swot - acne studios Strengths -

sold online, in their own stores and retail stores worldwide looks for every different possible occasion harmonious colour palette more sersatile collection than jacquemus (wider audience appeal) wardrobe for ‘post pandemic woman’, Jonny Johansson suggested (Anders Christian

Madsen, 2020)

- clothes that align with ss21 trend predictions (crochet knits, psychedelic prints, oversized jackets, layering, sparkling/iridescent, idea of rebirth, fashion united) - balance between tops and bottoms and accessories - niche and experimental collection brings customer loyalty and media hype - good mix between muted timeless colors and bold ones - lower entry price/exit price than its competitors

Weaknesses -

less commercial than its competitors (less casual and wearable -> potential sales loss) only womenswear, too many dresses very little transitional products, garments mainly based for summer very niche, can be seen as a weakness from a selling point of view less ‘it products’ than some of its competitors (like the chiquito for jacquemus) use of viscose -> not sustainable

Opportunities -

could offer a unisex collection could have created more pants, skirts especially denim (what they are known for) more diversity in models 100% upcycled collection just like the artistic director’s recent work use of vegan leather

threats -

covid-19 closure of non-essential stores in many countries too niche of a collection the appeal to a certain type of customer might limit the commerciality of this collection

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swot - celine

Strengths

- brand with History, a ‘must’ of the fashion luxury sector -high profile/income customers - sells collection in its own store, retailers worldwide and online - specific target customer - good balance between tops and bottoms - timeless pieces modernized (blazers, sequined dresses) - variety of accessories and shoes as well - made in Europe (Italy, France) - mostly 100% real raw luxurious materials (alligator leather 100% cotton or silk) - good stocks in high volumes for most garments - entry price level garments are the best sellers

weaknesses - simpleness of clothes and cuts lead to a critic of them potentially being ‘basic’ - not fashion forward - lack of harmony throughout outfits and collection (many materials, lengths, cuts, styles -> hard to find the purpose of the collection) - very high entry and exit price level, higher than its competitors - narrow size range (34-44) - mostly transitional products

opportunities -

could have showcased more diversity (plus-size models) during show broaden the target customer broadened the shoe wear range, currently only flats developed some sustainable vegan leather maroquinerie made it less commercial and more fashion forward wider size-range, an extension to 32-46 at least opportunity to use sustainable materials use strong colors as these are on trend

threats - not fashion forward -> can easily find similar clothes at high-street stores - no standout looks, leaves the customer confused, not knowing what to buy - many looks, collection that feels money driven instead of concept - high price point leads to a very niche clientele (high income people only) - rise in prices could lead to a fear of losing customers -covid-19 and the closing of non-essential stores

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comparative shop templates

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in order: 1. jacquemus 2. acne studios 3. celine

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1. jacquemus

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2. acne studios

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3. celine

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visual reference list all imagery from JACQUEMUS | Official website (2020). JACQUEMUS | Official website. [online] JACQUEMUS | Official website. Available at: https://www.jacquemus.com/simon [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. ‌ ACQUEMUS | Official website (2021). JACQUEMUS | Official website. [online] JACJ QUEMUS | Official website. Available at: https://www.jacquemus.com/archives [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. ‌ ACQUEMUS | Official website (2020). JACQUEMUS | Official website. [online] JACJ QUEMUS | Official website. Available at: https://www.jacquemus.com/simon [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. other pictures Pinterest. (2021). Suivez un cours de mode en ligne gratuit avec Jacquemus - Elle | Mode en ligne, Jacquemus, Mode. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/232357662014464820/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Pinterest. (2021). Catching up with Simon Porte Jacquemus | Jacquemus, Mode, Automne hiver. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/232357662014464819/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Pinterest. (2021). Find Out Where To Get The Bag | Jacquemus bag, Jacquemus, Mini bags street style. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/232357662014464813/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Pinterest. (2021). Jacquemus’s 10th anniversary show was set in a lavender field in Provence, and Instagram can’t cope in 2021 | Jacquemus, Hot pink fashion, Jacquemus bag. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/232357662014464812/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Pinterest. (2021). Jacquemus bag | Jacquemus, Summer aesthetic, Jacquemus bag. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/232357662014464808/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Pinterest. (2021). Jacquemus magazine | Idée photo insta, Idée photo, Jacquemus. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/232357662014464805/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Pinterest. (2021). jadetunchy. jacquemus aesthetic. | Jacquemus, Classy aesthetic, Black and white aesthetic. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/232357662014464804/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2021]. Wgsn.com. (2021). Design Capsule: Women’s Retro Resort S/S 22 - WGSN Fashion. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/90025 [Accessed 10 May 2021]. Wgsn.com. (2021). Print Sourcing Guide: Womenswear S/S 22 - WGSN Fashion. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/90306#page7 [Accessed 10 May 2021]. Yaeger, L. (2018). How Jacquemus Is Taking The Fashion World By Storm. [online] Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/simon-porte-jacquemus-interview-vogue-february-2018-issue [Accessed 7 Mar. 2021].

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