9 minute read
Beyond the Holstein
Up close and personal with Ontario’s other dairy breeds
By Treena Hein
The Holstein and its iconic black and white patches are synonymous with dairy. The breed accounts for more than 90 per cent of Ontario’s milking cows. There are many other breeds being actively milked in the province, with physical characteristics, origin, production capabilities, and other facts that make them special. These genetic strengths and weaknesses are the basis of why producers choose one breed over another.
The Jersey is Ontario’s second-most popular dairy cow followed by Ayrshire and Brown Swiss, with some smaller numbers of Guernsey, Milking Shorthorn and a few Canadienne.
JERSEY
Origin: Jersey, the southernmost island in the English Channel. Appearance: A small cow with a brown coat and white markings. Interesting Facts: Highly productive, with some cows giving more than 10 times their own weight in milk per lactation. Popular in Quebec because their manure contains 50 per cent less phosphorus compared to other breeds and the management of this nutrient has received a lot of attention in recent years.
The Jersey provides many benefits in a small, pretty package. Several Ontario Jersey farmers are among those who now have dairy processing plants on their farms because there is strong demand for the rich and creamy products derived from the breed’s higher-fat milk. At Little Brown Cow in Brantford, ON, Jersey qualities have been the key to success. This dairy farm/processor is owned by Jenny Butcher and Wes Kuntz, who received the Ontario Outstanding Young Farmers award in 2021. They milk 65 Jerseys in a swing seven milking parlour. Jenny and Wes started out in 2008, both working their farm and full-time jobs an hour away, with dreams of making cheese. They say Jerseys were the only choice. “The higher milk fat means the world to us,” says Jenny. “For the exact same amount of labour and fixed plant costs, we get dramatically more cheese production than we would from Holstein milk. Also, the calving ease was very, very important. With few exceptions, when calving goes well for a cow, the next 364 days do, too. Overall, the Jersey breed requires lower management and that was what we needed when we started out and what we still really value today.” Their heifers calve very early, at 18 to 20 months, with great success. “It’s not the norm to calve Jerseys at that age,” Jenny explains, “but they’re very fast-maturing and perfectly capable. I can’t emphasize enough how much consistently lowering the age at first calving increases the velocity of genetic improvement and the production cycle. This effect is further exaggerated by their ability to breed back quickly. It is common for a cow on our farm to have calved twice and have a daughter join her in the milking herd and become a grandmother all before 36 months of age.” Little Brown Cow opened its cheese plant in 2015 with a humble store, but it was expanded to become the Local Food Emporium, where the couple now sell milk, chocolate milk, 10 different cheeses, oven-ready meals, and lots of cheesecake from their commercial kitchen.
“The Jersey milk is definitely important in the marketing,” says Jenny. “They are the most beautiful cow and from a marketing standpoint, that matters. People are attracted to them. Fortunately, they’re not just a pretty face. They make the highest-quality milk, they’re efficient producers and the resulting cheeses are distinctly different.”
AYRSHIRE
Origin: Native to the mountainous regions of Ayr county in Scotland, though some historians believe they originated in Holland.
Appearance: Noted for their red and white colour which may range from a very dark, almost black mahogany to a very light brownish-red. Interesting Facts: Famous for functional conformation, freedom from genetic disease and easy calving. Adapt well to variable environmental conditions.
More than 80 per cent of Canada’s Ayrshires are found in Quebec, where there is a strong history of farming the breed and demand for the milk in the production of butter and cheese. “Some cheesemakers market their products specifically as Ayrshire and they respect the ratio of fat and non-fat components,” says Michel Boudreault, General Manager of Ayrshire Canada. “The number of kilos of cheese is easily three to four per cent higher for Ayrshire milk by volume than Holstein. The taste is also different.”
BROWN SWISS
Origin: Considered the oldest of the dairy breeds, developed in Switzerland and brought to Canada in 1888. Appearance: Pale brown. Interesting Facts: Considered a dual-purpose breed in Europe (where the dairy version is called Brown Swiss and the beef, Braunvieh); bred in North America for dairy farming.
The Brown Swiss is the next most popular dairy cow in Ontario behind Holstein, Jersey and Ayrshire, however, in terms of global herd size, it’s second only to the Holstein. The milk is in demand by cheesemakers because of the high volume and the best fat-to-protein ratio of any of the dairy breeds. The Brown Swiss is rugged, with strong feet and udders. They have rapid growth, long and productive lives, and a quiet temperament.
GUERNSEY
Origin: Arrived in Canada by accident when they were being taken by ship to New England and rough seas forced a landing in Nova Scotia. Appearance: Generally, a fawn colour with white markings. Interesting Facts: Guernsey milk is high in milk solids and has a distinctive golden colour resulting from high levels of beta carotene.
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solids. The breed is also adaptable to extreme climate conditions and various housing systems. At Eby Manor in Waterloo, ON, Howard and Annie Eby made the switch to Guernseys years ago. Their son Jim, President of the Canadian Guernsey Association, now co-owns the farm with his wife Ruth, son Ben and daughter-in-law Sheri. They milk 60 cows in a tie stall barn.
When Howard and Annie started out, milk prices were low. “After a meeting with Maple Lane Dairy in Kitchener, ON, they were offered a milk contract, provided they would switch to Guernseys,” says Jim. “Maple Lane was experiencing a strong and growing demand for Guernsey milk and was able to pay suppliers a better price.” While the sale of breed-specific milk was disallowed some time ago, the Guernseys stayed and the Ebys found a way to take advantage of the breed’s unique milk. In May of 2012, they launched a Guernsey A2 milk retail business, with nearby Hewitt’s Dairy doing the processing and bottling. “A2 is very impactful for many customers who have lactose intolerance,” Jim explains. “As well, Guernsey milk… has a distinct, full flavour which is well-received and appreciated by our customers.” Jim says Guernseys are similarly manageable to other breeds. He adds that while they are efficient butterfat converters, “we do have a goal to make some significant increases in milk production and maintain or increase our percentages of fat and protein.” Farmers with pasture-based operations have commented that Guernseys adapt well to pasturing due to a higher level of heat tolerance and other factors, Jim adds.
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MILKING SHORTHORN
Origin: Established in the 18th century in Northwestern England. Appearance: Red, red with white markings, white, or roan.
Interesting Facts: A “very quiet” or “quiet” temperament. Easy calving, with 98 per cent calving unassisted or with very little assistance.
The Milking Shorthorn (MS) is a smaller cow, and like the Guernsey, an efficient converter of feed to milk, especially on pasture and other forages. MS cows boast industry-leading figures for longevity, with almost half performing well until fourth lactation or more.
At the farm of Johnathan and Julie Eccles in Holstein, ON, the herd is about 80 per cent MS or MS-Holstein. The Eccles milk 30 to 35 cows in a tie stall barn with their children. John is also the president of the Canadian Milking Shorthorn Society. John likes the breed because they are “healthy, hardy, quiet, and moderate-sized” though production is about 80 per cent of the Holstein.
Increasing fat percentage has been a priority in recent years. “In 2012, the breed average was 3.7 per cent and now it’s 4.1,” he says. “That’s a big improvement in 10 years.”
CANADIENNE
Origin: Developed in Canada with its ancestors arriving in 1608 from France.
Appearance: Coats range from black and brown to russet. Interesting Facts: Also known as the Black Canadienne or Black Jersey. While numbers are critically low now, the Canadienne was the most common dairy cow 150 years ago.
The only dairy breed developed in Canada, the Canadienne was once the most popular in the country. There were 300,000 Canadienne in Canada around 1850 – they were hardy and could produce milk on poor forage and under very challenging conditions. The national herd has since declined significantly as the larger breeds have become more popular. Dave Berubé, chair of the Société des éleveurs de bovins canadiens, in Quebec, says there are about 500 purebred Canadienne in Canada, mostly in Quebec on commercial dairy farms and small mixed farms. “These types of farms are growing a lot in the province,” he says, “and these farmers are going for Jersey and Canadienne.”
