Poiret - Brand Strategy Book

1

2

3

01

5

1903

4

Credited with liberating women from the corset, Paul Poiret was a remarkable innovator and the creator of many of the fashion industry’s first times.

Unfortunately, the man once called the King of Fashion is now securely sealed only in the minds of obsessive fashionistas.

emotional charge they carry, even years after their decline. This book undertakes a very special case - exploring the relevance of an identity that has almost completely faded away over the last ninety years.

In the following pages, we embark on a journey of identifying and proposing a strategic direction for the revival of the lavish legacy of Paul Poiret.

Poiret

Resurrecting dead brands is a common practice due to the

2019

6

7

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

Table of Contents 06 - 23

Poiret Heritage

24 - 33

Cultural and Market Insight

34 - 41

Solution

42 - 51

Concept

52 - 55

Graphic Identity

56 - 63

Marketing

64 - 65

Future Strategy

66 - 79

Appendix

8

9

Chapter 01.

Chapter 01.

Poiret Heritage

Paul Poiret (20 April 1879 – 30 April 1944, Paris) was a leading French fashion designer, a master couturier during the first two decades of the 20th century.

10

11

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

Paul Poiret: Father of Art Deco, King of Fashion & Master of Branding 1903

1906

1909

Poiret opens his own couture house on Rue Auber in Paris, where he starts to design for the “general public” and builds upon the need for womenswear.

Poiret takes a radical step and liberates the woman’s body from the corset, a garment which had existed since the Renaissance Period.

The famous Ballets Russes which Diaghilev brought to Paris, impressed people with their music, choreography and, above all, sets and costumes, which in turn inspires Poiret to experiment with similar colours and patterns.

1911

Poiret becomes the first couturier to launch his own signature fragrance Parfums de Rosine, named after his eldest daughter.

Poiret hosts The Thousand and Second Night party, a flamboyant soiree held at his home in Paris, a magnificent homage to Orientalism.

The world’s first fashion photographs are Poiret’s designs captured by Edward Steichen and published in the magazine Art et Décoration.

1912

Establishes Atelier Martine - named after his second daughter - a school of decorative art, which provided opportunity for young Parisian women to learn about design, which subsequently expanded his fashion design into a total lifestyle through furniture and decor

1914

Poiret leaves his fashion house to serve the military in the World War I.

1929

Poiret is forced to close his fashion house, hit by the stock market crash and depression.

12

13

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

Historical Context Belle Époque

With the standards of living and security increasing during

Furthermore, the economic system seemingly created an

the late 19th century as well as the ending of devastation in

entirely new middle class. However, the era was also often

earlier years through the Franco-Prussian War, the French

portrayed as decadent, even degenerate. Former ideals of

society turned with full force to frivolity and joy. Cross-classing

progress and reason were slowly rejected. The psychological

became a prevalent form enabling the working class, and

costs of Capitalism transformed and changed people’s minds

especially women, to go out and blend with the upper class

very peculiarly. Such change signalled more profound anxiety

in places such as the Café Connoisseurs (Güner, 2019). The

inside: our inability to control our destinies. Placed in such

French liberal attitude attracted personalities from all over the

conflict, society handed itself over to the life of elegance and

world to Paris to study, live and enjoy.

pleasure. (Everett and Durkheim, 1899)

Technology and the second industrial revolution allowed better living conditions, while the aid of agriculture underpinned a revolution into a society of materialism and mass consumption.

Mass entertainment was transformed by venues like Moulin Rouge, new styles of theatre performances, simpler forms of music and the realism of modern writers, such as Oscar Wilde and Marcel Proust (Willsher, 2019). Print grew in greater importance, and educational initiatives opened up literacy to even wider numbers (Ernest, 2017).

14 14.

15.

15

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

Visual Identity (Past)

Baptised the King of Fashion, Paul Poiret was a couturier who introduced radical changes during his time, expanding society’s norms and values. He enjoyed experimenting with various collaborations, techniques, silhouettes, prints and details such as tassels, beadings and feathers. Taking inspiration from the Russian Ballet, the Orient and the Neoclassical era, he created pieces such as the harem pants, the lampshade tunic and the kimono (metmuseum.org, 2008) which emerged in the 20th century in Paris.

16

17

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

The Pioneer Nowadays, it could be argued whether Poiret would have

fact, became part of a bet, in which photographer Edward

succumbed under today’s criticism of cultural appropriation.

Steichen was challenged to promote fashion photography as

However, one thing is sure, the man was very inventive and

an art form. Steichen decided to take photographs of Poiret’s

ahead of his time marketing wise. Poiret was the first couturier

designs, and with these pictures, Poiret’s designs became the

to establish his very own designer perfume, named after his

first fashion photographs to appear in a magazine. Before

daughter, Rosine. Besides this cosmetics company, he also

fashion photography, Poiret’s designs were also beautifully

honoured his second daughter Martine by using her name for

portrayed by collaborating with illustrators such as Paul Iribe

a decorative arts company, which would also serve as an atelier

and Georges Lepape, the last being one of the most famous

for young Parisian women to learn about design. Poiret infused

illustrators of his time (blog.colettehq.com, 2019).

his fashion brand further, by opening this second business, selling home furniture and decor products, expanding into a lifestyle brand.

Other firsts of Poiret include the invention of designer shows, nowadays known as trunk shows, and the organising of designrelated theme parties such as the One Thousand and Second Night party, which turned out to be a great promotion technique for his designs. Besides this, Poiret had many successful collaborations with other artists. Through one of these collaborations he, in

18

19

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

Quote: “When Poiret asked ‘Coco’ Chanel in the nascent stages of her career why she was always dressed in black and white, she answered sharply, ‘Because I am your funeral.’”

(Business of Fashion, 2018)

His Downfall To a decade of experimentation, glory and fame also came an end - a sad and lonely one for Poiret. One could argue his downfall had to do with several life events and his very own personality. The first event which is believed to have influenced his career was being sent to serve the military. When he was released after three years of service, Poiret spent several months in Morocco trying to recover from this experience. A second major life event was the divorce between him and his wife Denise, after 23 years of marriage.

With Denise as his muse throughout the growth of the brand, this undoubtedly influenced the brand’s aesthetics. Last but not least, it is said that Poiret’s inability to adapt to ‘20s modernity led to the collapse of his company (Business of Fashion, 2015). After being ahead of the time for a decade, the time finally caught up and harshly brought the designer to his knees to surrender to time.

Coco Chanel

20

21

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

PHYSIQUE

PERSONALITY

Bold & Bright

Liberator

Orientalism Rose logo Perfume

Harem Pants

‘Art of Living’

Jester Innovator

From Belle Epoque to modernism Romantic RELATIONSHIP

Escapism

Theatrical

Crafts movement

Grandoise

Art Deco

Kernel Values

CULTURE

Parisian Cultural Elite

Looking at Poiret’s heritage, we can distinguish four kernel Avant-Garde

Intelectual

Lavish

Cosmopolitain Artistic

values of his brand:

Revolutionary

Liberation

Cultured

Implies how Poiret freed women from the corset.

Romanticism This form of escapism defines his overall approach.

REFLECTION

SELF-IMAGE

Excess

Resonates with the ‘full lifestyle’ outlook of Poiret’s brand.

Cultivation Reflected in his gatherings and exchanges with the Parisian cultural elite.

To carry on the legacy of Poiret, the aforementioned values will be reinterpreted in the contemporary context and brought Figure 01. Identity Prism

along to the concept of his revival.

22

23

Poiret Heritage

Poiret Heritage

Past Target Group Parisian Cultural Elite

The industrial output of France and its development

with Peggy Guggenheim and Margot Asquith being few of

underpinned a revolution in material culture. The ability

his most prominent ones (Bowles, Hamish, 2007). Having

to mass produce goods and the rise in wages (50% for some

just entered the glittering social world they were seemingly

urban workers) allowed people to pay for them. Life was seen

more independent and known for their outspokenness and

to be changing exuberantly fast, and the upper and middle

acerbic wit. However, they often married to men of similar

classes were benefiting from these changes (Wilde, 2019).

background that could facilitate their lifestyles in return for being the spur to their ambitions.

With the cheapest garment to be 30 guineas, double the annual salary of a scullery maid, Poiret was one of many signifiers

Occasionally

that the culture disbalance was still existent (Bowles, Hamish,

enthusiastically collected different forms of avant-garde art.

2007). He heavily catered to a transitional elite of women

Their social responsibility often unfolded in financially and

that would progressively question longly inherited systems

socially supporting emerging artists by promoting them to

and naturally oscillate between long-lived routines and the

higher-society nurturing the enamoured of the members of

excitement of the bohemian society. (Diana Holmes/Carrie

the bohemian artistic community.

Tarr,1890-1914)The women of Poiret were often female figures of an aristocratic or bourgeois group of intellectuals,

writers,

painters,

and

poets

themselves

Peggy Guggenheim in Poiret by Man Ray, 1925

24

25

Chapter 02.

Chapter 02.

Cultural and Market insight

On the rise of the New Cultural Elite, the source of their anxieties and their unconscious desires.

26

27

Cultural and Market insight

Cultural and Market insight

Socio-politcal insight

The New Cultural Elite

(Paris)

Almost a century after closing down, the brand of Poiret

express their status with ostentatiously materialistic purchases,

Despite the challenging conditions of high uncertainty and

Growing up in France dogged by limited growth and

has been long forgotten. So how can we revitalise this rich

but by making choices that reveal their social, environmental

volatility, the luxury industry continued to operate against

deindustrialisation, the rolling crisis of the eurozone, migrants,

heritage that no-one seems to care for? Today, the memory

and cultural awareness.

the backdrop in 2017 (Bain & Company, 2017). Europe and

refugees and terror attacks in Paris all reinforce and conflated

especially France faced challenges from the impacts of Brexit

to a state of insecurity and fear. (Martin, 2019) Progressively

and terrorism.

a growing presence of public frustration can be noted across

of this lavish innovator exists only in the minds of obsessive fashionistas, historians and art enthusiasts (Business of

The core of today’s younger representatives of cultural elite

Fashion, 2018). The most favourable answer, therefore, lies

can, therefore, be defined by their desire for meaningful

in Poiret’s initial audience - Parisian cultural elite. However,

experiences that will bring them closer to their aspirational,

A conducted examination by the National Observatory of

when the fuel tax rises were announced, ultimately leading to

what exactly is cultural elite today?

culturally in-the-know self-image. Even if it means leading a

Delinquency and Criminal Response (ONDRP), administered

widespread protests across France.

lifestyle they cannot yet afford.

in the two quarters of 2017, has revealed that more than one

Growing accessibility of travel and education allowed many

the French nation, which led to a public outcry in November

in five French individuals experience concerns in their daily

However, public frustration goes beyond the immediate cause

people of different economic backgrounds to follow their

As these tendencies stay vaguely on a global scale, another

lives. One-third of respondents had witnessed at least one

of the fuel tax to include stagnating incomes, a sense that fiscal

desires and expand their horizons (Baltic Journal of Law

question arises - what defines the cultural elite in Paris, Poiret’s

crime in the previous year. The research is conducted annually

reforms are leaving those in the lower-middle-income brackets

& Politics, 2011). As a result, many people who are highly

main stage and consequently the most logical location to begin

into the topic of “victimisation”. Especially the numbers in

worse off and the perception that president Macron is out of

educated and exist in the high-society cultural circles aren’t

the new chapter for this legendary designer?

the anxiety of women about personal safety double those of

touch with ordinary people (The Economist Intelligence Unit,

necessarily affluent. This new consumer class is connected

men. Furthermore, the figures collated in the survey display

2018).

not by location and income, but shared aspirations, level of

that Millenials are at a much higher risk of insecurity than the

education and cultural awareness.

Generations X and Y. (ONDRP/INHESJ, 2017)

Paris is only one example of the level of unpredictability that must be considered as the new norm for luxury players

In her 2017 book titled The Sum of Small Things, Elizabeth

A crucial part of understanding the rise in growing insecurity

to persist in cautious agility to compete in this perpetuallly

Currid-Halkett, professor of public policy at the University of

across France and especially Paris are the challenges that the

changing environment. Albeit those external factors are

Southern California, gave this new group of consumers a title

young generation faces, which unfold particularly social and

outside of anyones control, focusing on variables such as brand

of Aspirational Class. Currid-Halkett argues that accessibility

economic worries. In 2016, approximately 25% of French

positioning, the flexibility of the supply chain and delivery

of material goods has diminished their power as symbols of

youth were jobless, a rate that was 15 points higher than the

capablilities can enhacne the stability of their existence (Bain

social position. Consequently, the Aspirational Class does not

national rate that year, 9.9% (Martin, 2019).

& Company, 2018).

28

29

Cultural and Market insight

Cocooning Our homes are at the intersection of experiences, human

are an affluent, racially diverse group: More than one-third

connections and a safe haven. Here one can refuel in times

makes €65,000 or more annually. Whites make up 57%,

of turmoil and seek safety and an escape from reality by

Hispanics 22%, Blacks 14% and Asians 7%, according to

retreating into the seclusion of one’s home.

Magid. The firm surveyed 2,540 digital consumers in March 2012. “Today’s consumers are spending more time in the

In times of terror, many have a heightened sense of unease.

home and are willing to spend more for products that will

“We do not feel too safe, and people are getting more and

help enhance their home lifestyle” says Joe Derochowski,

more nervous about being vulnerable,” says trend forecaster

executive director and home industry analyst at The NPD

Faith Popcorn, who coined the term “cocooning” in 1981 for

Group.

such behaviour (Snider, 2019). Having been raised in times of instability and terror, Pew Research Center, the US research

They desire to create meaningful experiences in their homes

group, defines millennials as the 73m Americans aged between

which lead to significant sales growth in many home product

22 and 37, who will this year overtake boomers in number (Fry,

categories as reported by NPD. (www.whitehutchinson.com,

2017). Moreover, only now they have reached what the bank

2019)

calls “the most important age range for economic activity”, when households are formed, babies are born, and money

Ultimately these consumers are seeking home products that

is spent not just on going out but on settling down (Gapper,

make a strong and positive impact on their lives, and that

2018). With almost three-quarters (73%) of this younger age

can solve avoidance, feed desire and answer needs. However,

group prefer staying home to going out, they coin into the

their research also discovered the trend not being limited to

prosperous Cocooning tribe (Watts, 2018). These Cocooners

that young age group.

Cultural and Market insight

30

31

Cultural and Market insight

New Target Group

Victoir (27) - HERS - Highly Educated Ritual Seeker

HERS - Highly Educated Ritual Seekers

Victoir (27) was born and raised in the French Provence

moved places multiple times over the last few years, she is on

but chose to move to Paris to follow her big city dreams.

a mission to tun her tiny apartment in the 10th district6 in

Empowered by one of her favourite books, A Room of

Paris into a safe bubble that protects her from the instability of

One’s Own by Virginia Woolf1, she decided to follow the

the outside world. She does so by surrounding herself with a

multidisciplinary programme in the humanities and social

mixture of carefully selected items from the flea markets and

sciences at the Sciences Po2 from which she recently graduated.

occasional investment purchases from more expensive brands

Unfortunately, the current socio-political environment has

such as BULY 1803, Astier de Villatte or LRNCE.

Palomo Wool sweater

woken up her sensitive side, making her feel too vulnerable to follow this career path confidently.

Victoir feels empowered by her daily routines - they help her To steer away from the scariness of the outside world, she

regain the feeling of control and serenity. From a 10-step

started an internship at Atelier des Lumières3 where she finds

Korean skin routine, to always making her bed in the morning,

serenity in her old habit of indulging in anemoia (nostalgia

to checking her daily horoscopes on CoStar7, she approaches

for a time you have never known). This habit, which she has

most of the things in her life in a ritualistic manner. She is

developed during her teenage years by collecting inspirational

also a massive tea connoisseur - coffee gives her anxiety. On

images of vintage clothing on Tumblr, has now evolved into

the evenings she revisits classic films currently available on

obsessively organised image collections saved on Instagram.

MUBI8, browses through Artsy9 (to fantasise about the art pieces she would purchase if she had more money), immerses

To make some extra money that will pay for her aspirational

herself in a Headspace10 session or a recent episode of her

purchases, such as occasional organic avocados and that

favourite podcast On Being11. Although she does not want

dream-like cosy winter sweater from Paloma Wool4, she

to admit it, she buys most of her books for the decor and

spends one evening per week working as a waitress at La

listens to them on Audible12. On top of that, she sometimes

Bellevilloise5 where she also discovers new interesting artists

finds herself getting lost in a YouTube deep-dive, enjoying the

and meets people involved in the high cultural circles. Having

weirdly satisfying ASMR13 videos.

Definitions of locations, products and services used to portray the target group can be find in the appendix.

32

33

Cultural and Market insight

Cultural and Market insight

Value propostion Distribution: Ritualistic Poiret creates a soothing routine around the clients’ shopping experience by working with drops that build anticipation (refer to chapter Why Drops Work). Furthermore, periodically

Problem / Need

released content will correlate with their desire for comfort and staying inspired (refer to chapter Content Development and Marketing).

Product: Curated Heirlooms

1. Their inability to control their own destiny results in finding empowerment in routines.

2. The small, rented spaces they live in don’t allow them to fully create their own safe bubble. The only currently available solution is to curate their space from different sources, but this method does not provide them with a feeling of belonging and serenity they so desperately seek.

3. Their cultural awareness has led to their desire for a luxurious lifestyle, but their economic background doesn’t allow them to fully pursue it.

4. HERS are environmentally aware but they don’t want to give up on aesthetics.

Poiret’s nostalgia-evoking products are created with the intention of bringing serenity to clients’ lives through ownership of treasured items.

Communication: Nurturing Luxury Poiret allows clients to elevate their status through a low-investment luxury product range.

Production: Rarity and Expertise Poiret is sourcing directly from farmers, mills and experts all over the world (refer to chapter Poiret’s Chapters). Eschewing industrial farms in favour of small-batch producers will not only assure sustainability but furthermore enhance a luxurious storytelling experience through their rarity by nature.

34

35

Chapter 03.

Chapter 03.

Solution On the healing powers of rituals and nostalgia...

36

37

Solution

Solution

IN-THE-NOW

EXPENSIVE

POIRET

Versace The Row

Hermes Magda Butrym

Céline

The Row

Gucci

LRCNE

Buly1803

Buly1803

Paloma Wool Loewe

Magda Butrym

Dries van Noten Le Maire

Jacquemus

Le Maire Jacquemus

POIRET

Dries van Noten

LRCNE

Loewe

Paloma Wool

TIMELESS

CASUAL LUXURY

DECADENT

TRENDS

ARKET

ARKET

Céline

Hermes

COS

COS

Gucci Versace ZARA home

ZARA home OYSMO

OYSMO AFFORDABLE

Figure 02. Competitor Matrix

MAINSTREAM

39 Solution

Positioning Statement For HERS, Poiret is the most aspirational yet nurturing brand amongst all affordable luxury labels because of its ritualistic approach and the nostalgia-evoking identity.

40

41

Solution

Solution

Why drops work HERS have a growing desire towards a democratic form of

be displayed.The product drops will be launched every first

luxury; were exclusivity and the access to something unique,

Sunday of the month at 6 pm; therefore right after the salary

gives one a lot of credibility and status amongst their peers.

of most clients.

This form of luxury is about participating in the experience that comes with the acquired craft of knowledge, timing, and

The sales tactic of hard access and the sell-out of limited

resources; this skill gains access to the right products, opposed

supply will eventually result in the constant buzz around the

to cold, harsh cash (Trunzo, B. and DeLeon, J. 2018).

brand. Clients need to be aware of the launch dates and times, albeit the need to be a part of an exclusive crowd that is well

Nowadays the fashion market is more crowded than ever

informed about the drop is essential. This tactic supports

before. Poiret is going to stand out by answering our client’s

Poirets to form an engaged community.

needs with the strategy of collections released in drops.

Limited-edition collections in small quantities create a sense of urgency and a fear of missing out. As a result of the smaller quantity and sellout, the monetary value increases on the secon-hand market and elevates the symbolic meaning.

Poiret releases two theme collections a year, which will be the only available through direct purchases and mostly through the online store. Prior to the launch of the collections, a lookbook will be published; here a preview of the whole collection will

42

43

Chapter 04.

Chapter 04.

Concept

The house of Poiret will be a space where carefully curated items fuse into a universe of idealised nostalgia.

Through these products, the HERS can fuel the brand’s serene luxury in their own homes, ascending into a state surrounded by sentiment and romance.

44

45

Concept

Concept

The House of Idealised Nostalgia Living in a society based on following and likes, where millennials are focused on promoting their life on the “gram”, HERS are seeking for something more authentic and nostalgic than shown on the average Instagram feed.

Rooted in the trend of cocooning, they seek empowerment in routines, and carefully curate their own space. Poiret will feed into their need of a luxurious yet environmentally friendly lifestyle, idealising the “art of living” philosophy.

Aestheticly pleasing items will be dropped monthly in a curated manner, inviting HERS to fully immerse themselves in the house of Poiret. Clients will feel liberated in Poiret’s environment, online and offline from the comfort of their homes.

Inspired by Poiret’s old brand, the values liberation, romanticism, maximalism and cultivation will be distilled into the reinvention of the brand. “The house of idealised nostalgia” translates these values into the luxury market of today.

46

47

Concept

Concept

48

49

Concept

Concept

Introducing the first collection from Poiret’s first season: Product Range:

Poiret’s Chapters

- Quilt

- Polishing pad

- Beauty gloves

- Turban

- Sleeping mask (lavender - tea tree oil - jasmin)

- Wool blanket

- Pocket scarf

- Stuffed Animal

- Kimono inspired robe

- Empire dress

- Slippers - 2 styles

- Socks

- Decoration pillows - 3 different sizes

- Cape

- Room divider

- “Art” piece

The house of Poiret will be a space where carefully curated

reminiscent to the dusk and dawn. The textiles will be

items fuse into a universe of idealised nostalgia. Through these

accessorized with extravagant embellishments such as feathers,

products, the HERS can fuel their own homes with the brand’s

embroidery, beading, pearls and tassels.

- Lamp shade

Poiret will be sourcing directly from farmers, mills and experts

First Drop:

serene luxury, ascending into a content state, surrounded by sentiment and romance.

all over the world. One of the key points of the brand’s revival The collections are based on chapters linking back to Poiret’s

strategy is to implement sustainability without compromising

- Slippers

past, which will be released bi-annually. Oversized silhouettes

on the aesthetic value by working with independent suppliers

- Room divider

meet sculptural accents with homely textures inspired by soft

of materials that elaborate into luxury by the nature of their

- Polishing pad

furnishing. Implementing refreshed techniques used by Poiret,

rarity. An example will be the close partnership with peacock

- Empire dress

such as draping and weaving, the collections will be fabric-

owners who will be supplying the feathers shed after their

- Embroidery art piece

focused using merino wool, velvet, raw silk and linen.

annual mating season(Conlon, S. 2018).

- Lamp shade

Minimal prints inspired by the French Provence, Poiretinspired illustrations from the past and astrology emphasize the elegance of the fabrics. To add a new dimension, scents are implemented into the textiles such as Lavender, Jasmin, Musk, Palo Santo, Sandalwood and Black Rose. The colour palette will be balanced in jewel colours and pastel colours,

50

51

Concept

Concept

Le Serpent

La pomme

Les Pieds Nus

Ève

Le Corps Nu

52

53

Chapter 05.

Chapter 05.

Graphic Design

On the rebirth of the iconic rose...

54

55

Graphic Design

Graphic Design

Logo Berry Purple

Dusty Rose

Rust Orange

reinterpreted by solely taking the contours of the signature

C:

38

C:

09

C:

23

C:

08

flower. Whilst honouring the original design, a lighter and

M:

85

M:

45

M:

76

M:

58

more minimalistic notion has been applied. The heavier

Y: 48

Y: 44

Y: 98

Y: 100

elements of the stem in correlation with the fragility of the

K:

K:

K:

K:

The rose named after his first daughter Rosine

Orange

was

55

01

14

01

petals allude to a balanced transition from the old and the new.

R: 99

R: 229

R: 177

R: 277

G: 37

G: 160

G: 78

G: 127

B: 54

B: 137

B: 27

B: 07

Dark Green

Teal Green

Antique Moss

abcdefghijklmopqrstuvwxyz

C:

79

C:

87

C:

39

C:

02

0123456789

M:

36

M:

36

M:

15

M:

02

Y: 76

Y: 52

Y: 62

Y: 19

K:

K:

K:

K:

Typography Baskervile When designing the logo, it was found important to translate

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOP

Poiret appropriately to the idea of a contemporary revival.

QRSTUVWXYZ

While shifting the font in a more simplified and rejuvenated manner, soft serif characteristics preserve the heritage of the 90 year old house.

31

31

01

Creme

12

R: 52

R: 02

R: 173

R: 230

G: 100

G: 100

G: 186

G: 225

B: 70

B: 99

B: 121

B: 201

56

57

Chapter 06.

Chapter 06.

Marketing On the nurturing value of storytelling...

58

59

Marketing

Marketing

Brand launch Strategy Phase 1

Phase 3

Generating curiosity by teasing Poiret on multi-media channels,

Provoke desire by engaging potential future clients either

without revealing the to be released content and products.

through a selected aspirational group that promotes Poiret or curated content on owned channels.

- Collaboration with ARTE on a short documentary about the process of reviving the long lost Designer Poiret. To be released after brand launch.

- The website will display the logo, email subscription and a countdown to anticipate the drop

- Micro-influencers have specific niche audiences and are deeply connected to them. To achieve the best possible ROI on the campaign we will be working on a combination of micro-influencers and celebrity influencers which raise the ROI of the campaign and lower the overall marketing spend.

Phase 2

The activation will be lead by seeding of priority passes of

Create visibility and credibility about the resuscitation of Poiret

Poirot’s first drop with a complimentary gift of their selection.

through paid content to take the consumer by surprise and

(@alicemoireau, @lamialand, @louisedamas,

make an indelible impression by creating copious amounts of

@adelefarine, @jeannedamas)

social buzz.

- Pinterest: The channel will be utilised to give its users more - Guerilla Marketing, Digital Screens and poster (Le Marais

context and inspiration of Poiret’s universe through taste

5th Arrondissement, Les Halles, Bastille, Le Batignolles,

discoveries which may result in the eventual purchase of

Palais Royale)

retail goods.

- Article in Partnership with Business of Fashion and Le Figaro

- Instagram: communicate our story daily through stills posted in three, video, stories and Instagram live.

- The website will launch their journal, displaying a mysterious curation of podcasts, articles, music, literature

Phase 4

and art around the yet to be announced collection “Le Fruit

Launch of the collection with further explanation of Poirets

Defendu”.

future.

- The collection “Le Fruit Defendu” will be presented on Poiret’s website in the form of look and feel video in collaboration with Jordan Hemingway on Saturday, April 20th, 2019 - the birthday of Paul Poiret.

- The first drop will then be released on Sunday, April 21st at 6 PM. As average spendings are proven to be the highest on that day.

60

61

Marketing

Marketing

Content Development & Marketing One of Poiret’s main values is cultivation, which will be carried @adelefarine

throughout our multi-media channels with the objective of brand education and exposure.

Instagram

Podcast

Carefully curated stories containing videos, visuals (tripled-

Product placements in Podcast like On Being will further

posts), stories colour-coded and around the theme of our

expose the brand awareness.

drops.

@jeannedamas

Ambassadors Journal

Influencers such as Jeanne Damas and Adele Farine will

This section of poiret.com contains continuous flow of

amplify the reach while simultaneously gathering trust and

content including, podcast, documentaries, short movies,

desire.

playlists, stories, and activities. From conscious consumerism to letters to the self and zero waste solutions it will allude to a

Celebrity Branding

source of inspiration and escapism.

Poiret will be promoted by celebrities such as Saoirse Ronan, Rachel Weisz, Cate Blanchett, and Indya Moore. Their social

Newsletters

status and fame will essentially help to promote the brand by

Weekly updates highlighting the most inspirational topics of

polishing the image of the brand, introducing Poiret to a new

our Journal and key products.

and wider market and establish a aspirational positioning.

Advertorials Paid content in partnership with Gentlewoman, Architectural Digest and financial times will establish the right setting and context of the product. @lamialand

62

63

Marketing

Marketing

Communication channels Public Relations

Channels

Poiret will be pro-actively creating a carefully curated language through brand building, storytelling initiatives on relevant press avenues by our in-house Team. This includes piecing together the right external creative team to develop assets and finding the right media partners and collaborators to echo Poiret’s goals. Collection sample trafficking for editorials and requests can be allocated at our in-house showroom in Paris.

Furthermore, we will build up a community and network within the creative field to create a unique and growing brand universe of personalities and ambassadors to curate and seed.

This includes but is not limited to press, stylists, influencers and industry leaders. Special projects will be realised in collaboration with photo and video artists, casting agents,

Daily Newspapers New York Times Financial Times Le Figaro Institutional Vogue Vogue Home Elle Decor Architectual Digest

Trade WWD Business of Fashion

artists and musicians.

Social Media Pinterest: Poiret’s boards will encompass a wide selection of visual inspiration. The purpose of this channel is to educate the viewer both about Poiret’s heritage and taste levels. From room-specific boards, to look-and-feels and poetry, it will unfold into a source of infinite inspiration. (Wiley, 2017) Instagram: Our Instagram channel will be carefully curated in the form of tripled posts and videos. Furthermore, every drop will be set in a tone of colour that will eventually end in a spread that evolves to different colour schemes. Influencers will be seeded products without the restriction of needed content.

Trend / Niche System Gentle Woman Apartamento Ignat Selfservice Goop Gabana Magazine Wrab Magazine

Customer Relationship Nowadays the expectations of the HERS are higher than ever,

Next, to the online store, clients are invited into the House of

it’s more than just honesty and quality, for them it’s crucial that

Poiret by introducing a traveling format. Aspirational image

their values align. They are expecting consistent and ongoing

of Poiret will be translated into rooms of the international

services and products with instant access at all times.

chain Hôtel de Crillon. This collaboration will allow having

(Forshew, A. 2018).

a real-life brand experience, which elevates Poiret’s status and credibility, without extensive investment. The shared profit for

Poiret chose to play an aspirational and caring role in their

Poiret and the hotel will align with grooming future clients on

client’s life, by introducing clients to the brand philosophy

both sides, as we cater to their future demographic.

of “the art of living”. Poiret answers their needs for routine, idealized nostalgia, safety, and serenity. But most importantly,

Shipping will be realised in the time frame of two weeks, albeit

they are left with the sentiment of being in an exclusive

create anticipation and contribute to a more sustainable service

relationship with the brand which will be evident through

(MIT, 2013). However, personalised emails with updates about

personal and unique connection with the client.

your product will fill the gap appropriately. Every order is artfully packaged and finished with personalized, intricate

Generally, Poiret’s immersive brand experience will be shown

calligraphy - a skill that every employee is required to master.

throughout the website. An online shop and Journal that

Hereby our special connection and commitment to the client

breathes the values of our brand. The Journal will contain

are secured.

content which serves as a source of inspiration to the clients, making their life easier by gathering everything they normally

Ultimately all media channel are aimed to inspire and cultivate

seek for on different platforms into one page. Furthermore,

the client. As the universal emotions of belonging, comfort, and

the online store will include a live chat, where questions are

nostalgia are unconditionally and irrevocably our highest priority.

answered right away.

64 Chapter 07.

Future Strategy

Growing with the Client We want to attract to the group of potential high-spenders of the future and build a relationship founded on trust when they’re only entering their aspirational luxury lifestyle.

Our strategic decision is to relaunch Poiret as an affordable luxury brand in order to meet the aspirational needs of the group that has the most potential of being interested in the brand - the new cultural elite.

Essentially by growing with the client and building a strong customer relationship on the way to their maturity will most probably entail the introduction of a wealthier lifestyle.

Within our 15 year plan, we eventually will outgrow the affordable luxury market and enter seamlessly the one of a high luxury player with a decadent identity that will be able to carry on Poiret’s original legacy.

To sustain relevancy throughout our audience in the upcoming years, Poiret will progressively take the lead on developing new products that innovate the homeware department. From pottery to the fields of smell and cosmetics Poiret will allude to a range far from the mundane, continuously raising the limitations of the art of living.

66

67

Appendix

Appendix

Appendix

68

69

Appendix

Appendix

BULY 1803

Dries van Noten

With audacity and precision, in the spirit of conquest

Dries Van Noten is known for his talent for mixing Brand Essence

Differentiation

prints and relaxed silhouettes - “I am not a fashion

Brand Essence

and innovation, l’Officine Universelle Buly offers

designer who is making clothes just for fashion shows. I

products that draw on the most innovative cosmetic

think that is a lie. I really make clothes to wear.

techniques and on the virtues of natural ingredients.

Design: when Dries designs something too beautiful, he

BULY 1803 encompasses the new wave of apothe-

adds something distracting or something ugly to make

Differentiation

cary-style beauty and wellness aids with extreme nostalgia on small-batch and ancient recipes.

it more interesting, and that’s an ongoing process all the time. He is a thinking, feeling designer.

designer who has forged his own path.

Born in France to apple farmers of Moroccan descent, the hyperactive designer Ramdane Touhami worked in various industries—from creating skateboards and skatewear and hosting a reality TV series to reengineering the French candle brand Cire Trudon—before starting Buly.

His wife, Victoire de Taillac, handles public relations for the brand and takes the lead on developing new products.

- The Antwerp six

- Extreme Nostalgia

A master of print, pattern and texture, he emerged from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the early ‘80s Persona of the brand

as part of the Antwerp Six. Since launching his namesa-

Persona of the brand

ke label in 1986, he has become widely respected as a

Associations

- Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts - Prints and Colors

Associations

- Old World traditions - Wellness - Escapism

- An ethnic feel inspired by countries such as Morocco, India and Egypt

He launched ready-to-wear menswear first, then Product Range

womenswear (both initially featured the same fabrics), and opened a boutique soon after. Currently selling also shoes, bags and accessories

L’Officine Universelle Buly offers perfumes and atmospProduct Range

heric odors, natural beauty treatments and the best accessories since 1803.

70

71

Appendix

Appendix

Gucci Brand Essence

Differentiation

Persona of the brand

A nostalgically romantic fairytale that provides you with a retro escape from the reality.

Maximalist, more is more, immersive lifestyle.

Gucci

Retro chic, eclectic, contemporary, romantic, fun, quirky sexiness, feminine.

@jeannedamas Dries van Noten

Associations

Product Range

Fantasy, art, retro, romance, escapism, art, historical.

Couture, ready to wear, fragrance, accessories & Gucci DĂŠcor, a collection of furniture and decorative pieces.

BULY1803

72

73

Appendix

Appendix

REVENUE STREAMS

KEY RESOURCES

UNFAIR ADVANTAGE

CHANNELS

CUSTOMER SEGMENTATION

CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP

- Monthly drops with initial

- specialised factories

Internal:

Distribution:

HERS - Highly Educated Ritual Seekers

- lifestyle brand

- customer service personnel

- strong heritage

- wholesale

- Victoir (27)

- caring & aspirational role

- content specialist > copy writers &

- it’s for those “in-the-known”

- Moved to Paris to pursue her big city

- exclusive relationship

Communication:

dreams

- “immersive experience” through

- PR

- Tiny apartment in the 10th district in Paris

External:

- Print Channels

- Graduated at the Science Po

- Poiret has been long forgotten.

(Magazines, - Newspapers,

- Early adopter

- Competition owned by holding

Digital Media Channels)

- Empowered by her daily routines

collection launch - Partnership with Boutique Hotels - Short movies on Youtube

art directors

(prestigious image)

- designers

KEY ACTIVITIES

companies.

- Content development & marketing - Designing - Sourcing

digital - content / short-lived moments - home delivery, long anticipation & sustainable factor

- Habit of indulging in anemonia

Social Media

- Mixture of carefully selected items from

- Instagram

the flea markets

- Pinterest

- Favourite brands: Paloma Wool, BULY 1803, Astier de Vilatte and LRNCE

- Production

- Checking her daily horoscopes on CoStar

- Customer service

- Massive tea connoisseur

- Collaborative projects e.g.

Boutique Hotels

PROBLEM / NEED

PROBLEM / NEED

POSITIONING STATEMENT

1. HERS’ inability to control their own destinies results in

- Distribution: Ritualistic

For HERS, Poiret is the most

- bi-monthly shipping routine

finding empowerment in routines.

- Product: Curated Heirlooms

aspirational and nurturing brand

- paid content (advertorials)

amongst all affordable luxury labels

- ambassadors & celebrities

because of its ritualistic approach and

- HR

the nostalgia-evoking identity.

- Production

2. The small, rented spaces the HERS’ live in do not allow them to fully create their own safe bubble. The only

- Communication: Nurturing Luxury - Production: Rarity and Expertise

COST STRUCTURE

currently available solution is to curate their spaces from different sources, but this method does not provide them with a feeling of belonging and serenity they so desperately seek.

KEY PARTNERS 3. Being culturally in the know has led to HERS’ desire for a luxurious lifestyle, but their economic background does not allow them to fully pursue it.

4. They are environmentally aware but they don’t want to give up on aesthetics.

Figure 03. Business Model Canvas

- Boutique Hotels - Suppliers & Factories - FED - EX

74

75

Appendix

Appendix

Timeline Blog.colettehq.com. (2019). Paul Poiret – King of Fashion | Colette Blog. [online]

Dictionary Target Group 1. Virginia Woolf ’s 1929 essay A Room of One’s Own speaks of education as the key to women’s emancipation.

Available at: https://blog.colettehq.com/inspiration/paul-poiret-king-of-fashion [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

Collectaaa.be. (2019). [online] Available at: http://collectaaa.be/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Paul-Poiret-1.pdf [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

Couget, G. (2019). Paul Poiret, l’homme qui a décorseté les femmes - Géraldine Couget “Ma plume au service de vos écrits”.

2. Sciences Po is an international research university, both selective and open onto the world, ranking among the finest

[online]

institutions in the fields of humanities and social sciences.

“Ma plume au service de vos écrits.”

3. Atelier des Lumières is a digital art center drawing attention to big names in art history located in Paris in a renovated

Availabl at e: http://www.geraldine-couget.com/paul-poiret-lhomme-qui-a-decorsete-les-femmes-2/

foundry from the XIX century.

[Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

4. See image in the moodboard.

Encyclopedia.com. (2019). Paul Poiret | Encyclopedia.com. [online] Available:https://www.encyclopedia.com/people/ literature-and-arts/fashion-biographies/paul-poiret [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

5. La Bellevilloise is an independent space dedicated to art and festivities, initially funded in 1877 with a mission to provide the more modest with access to culture and political education.

6. The 10th district in Paris is an up and coming area that is still respectively affordable and close to the centre of the city.

7. Co Star is an AI-powered astrology app that not only gives the users access to a personalised horoscope but also allows them to see compatibility with their friends and significant others.

Highsnobiety. (2019). The History of Fashion Photography | Highsnobiety. [online] Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/09/23/fashion-photography-history/ [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

History of Fashion. (2019). History of Paul Poiret. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionintime.org/history-paul-poiret/ [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

Iribe, P. (1908). Les robes de Paul Poiret. Paris: Se trouve ... chez Paul Poiret, couturier. Libération.fr. (2019). Poiret, sœurs et sans reproche. [online] Available at: https://www.liberation.fr/cahier-ete-2015/2015/07/20/poiret-soeurs-et-sans-

8. MUBI is a subscription-based service/app providing a hand picked selection of the best classic, independent and award-

reproche_1350923 [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

winning films.

Menkes, S. (2019). Liberty belle: Poiret’s modernist vision. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: https://www.nytimes.

9. Artsy is a platform for collecting and discovering art.

com/2005/04/26/style/liberty-belle-poirets-modernist-vision.html [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

10. Headspace is a subscription-based service/app with guided meditations, animations, articles and videos that improve

Metmuseum.org. (2019). [online] Available at: https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2007/poiret-king-of-

mental health and happiness.

11. On Being is a podcast on deep thinking & social courage, moral imagination & joy, to renew inner life, outer life, and life together.

12. Audible is Amazon’s subscription-based service/app with audiobooks.

fashion-at-metropolitan-museums-costume-institute-to-celebrate-paul-poiret-visionary-artistcouturier-of-early-20th-century [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

The Business of Fashion. (2019). Paul Poiret (1879-1944). [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ education/paul-poiret-1879-1944 [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

Thebiography.us. (2019). Biography of Paul Poiret (1879-1944). [online] Available at: https://thebiography.us/en/poiretpaul [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

13. ASMR is a feeling of well-being combined with a tingling sensation in the scalp and down the back of the neck, as experienced by some people in response to a specific gentle stimulus, often a particular sound.

Vogue. (2019). Poiret Is Being Revived a Century After Its Heyday—Will It Matter to Fashion Audiences in 2018?. [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/paul-poiret-label-revival-yiqing-yin [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

76

77

Appendix

Appendix

Socio-political insight (Paris) France politics: “Gilets Jaunes” protests force government U-turn 2018, Unknown, The Economist Intelligence Unit N.A.,

Belle Epoque

Incorporated, New York.

Martin, V. (2019). France’s Front National and millennials: when insecurity and fear meet social media. [online] The Conversation. Available at: http://theconversation.com/frances-front-national-and-millennials-when-insecurity-and-

Güner, F. (2019). The dark side of the Belle Époque. [online] Bbc.com. Available at:

fear-meet-social-media-76377 [Accessed 20 Mar. 2019].

http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20161207-the-dark-side-of-the-belle-epoque?ocid=ww.social.link.email [Accessed 24 Mar. 2019].

Unknown (2017) institut national des hautes études de la sécurité et de la justice [online] Available at: https://inhesj.fr/etudes-recherches/institutions-regaliennes-et-population [Accessed 18 Mar. 2019]

Everett, H. and Durcheim, E. (1899). Le Suicide. The American Journal of Psychology, 10(4), p.596. [Accessed 22 Mar. 2019] Bain & Company (2017). Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Report Brain and Comapny. [online] Bain & Company.

Willsher, K. (2019). Monet, cabaret and absinthe: Paris yearns for ‘la belle époque’. [online] the Guardian.

Available at: https://www.bain.com/insights/luxury-goods-worldwide-market-study-fall-winter-2017/ [Accessed 19 Mar.

Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/feb/15/paris-1900-belle-epoque-exhibition-petit-palais

2019].

[Accessed 22 Mar. 2019].

Target Group of the past (Bowles, Hamish, 2007). “Fashioning the Century.” Vogue (May 2007): 236–250 Diana Holmes/Carrie Tarr: A Belle Epoque?: Women and Feminism in French Society and Culture 1890-1914 Wilde, R. (2019). The Belle Époque During France’s Industrial Revolution. [online] ThoughtCo. Available at: https://www.thoughtco.com/the-belle-epoque-beautiful-age-1221300 [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

Cocooning Snider, M. (2019). Cocooning: It’s back and thanks to tech, it’s bigger. [online] USA today.

Available at: https://eu.usatoday.com/story/tech/personal/2013/02/15/internet-tv-super-cocoons/1880473/ [Accessed 23 Mar. 2019].

Watts, W. (2018). Millennials spending more time at home, saving energy. Joule. [online] Available at: https://www.scimex.org/newsfeed/millennials-spending-more-time-at-home,-saving-energy [Accessed 16 Mar. 2019].

The new Cultural Elite (Target Group)

Gapper, J. (2018). ​How millennials became the world’s most powerful consumers | Financial Times. [online] Ft.com.

FLACCAVENTO, A. (2018). Poiret’s Second Life. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at:

Fry, R. (2017). 5 facts about Millennial households. [online] Pew Research Center.

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/poirets-second-life [Accessed 4 Mar. 2018].

Available at: https://www.pewresearch.org/fact-tank/2017/09/06/5-facts-about-millennial-households/ [Accessed 22

Available at: https://www.ft.com/content/194cd1c8-6583-11e8-a39d-4df188287fff [Accessed 24 Mar. 2019].

Mar. 2019].

Currid-Halkett, E. (2017) The Sum of Small Things. [book] Princeton University Press. www.whitehutchinson.com. (2019). Cocooning is the NEW going out: the hygge trend’s impact on CLVs. [online] Kenton, W. (2017). High Earners, Not Rich Yet - HENRYs. [online] Investopedia. Available at:

Available at: https://www.whitehutchinson.com/news/lenews/2017/august/article114.shtml [Accessed 24 Mar. 2019].

https://www.investopedia.com/terms/h/high-earners-not-yet-rich-henrys.asp [Accessed 7 Dec. 2017].

Bain, M. (2018). Nobody knows what luxury is anymore. [online] Quartzy. Available at: https://qz.com/quartzy/1303457/ nobody-knows-what-luxury-is-anymore/ [Accessed 26 Jun. 2018].

Value Proposition

Baltic Journal of Law & Politics 4:1 (2011) ACCESSIBILITY OF HIGHER EDUCATION: THE RIGHT TO HIGHER

Youn S, Jin SV. Reconnecting with the past in social media: The moderating role of social influence in nostalgia marketing

EDUCATION IN COMPARATIVE APPROACH. [academic research paper] 27-51 DOI: 10.2478/v10076-011-0002-7

on Pinterest. J Consumer Behav. 2017;16:565–576. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1655

78

79

Appendix

Appendix

Competitor matrix DRIES VAN NOTEN Driesvannoten.be. (2019). Dries Van Noten. [online] Available at: https://www.driesvannoten.be/.

Hawkins, A. (2017). The Vision of Dries Van Noten. [online] https://www.port-magazine.com. Available at: https://www. port-magazine.com/fashion/the-vision-of-dries-van-noten/ [Accessed 2 Aug. 2017].

Yanagihara, H. (2017). Dries Van Noten, Icon of Creative Freedom. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: https://www. nytimes.com/2017/10/16/t-magazine/dries-van-noten.html [Accessed 16 Oct. 2017].

Directory, I., Rolex, T., Guide, W. and Talks, T. (2015). Dries Van Noten | The Talks. [online] The Talks. Available at: http://the-talks.com/interview/dries-van-noten/ [Accessed 13 May 2015].

MERKIN, D. (2011). The Rapture. [online] ELLE. Available at: https://www.elle.com/fashion/a11744/dries-van-noten/ [Accessed 16 Aug. 2011].

CHITRAKRON, K. (2018). Decoding the Dries Van Noten Deal. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion. com/articles/news-analysis/dries-van-noten-sells-majority-stake-to-puig [Accessed 14 Jun. 2018].

BULY 1803 ELLENBERG, C. (2017). A Cultish Parisian Apothecary Opens in New York. [online] Vogue. Available at:https://www. vogue.com/article/lofficine-universelle-buly-1803-new-york-bergdorf-goodman-ramdane-touhami-victoire-de-taillac-paris [Accessed 18 Apr. 2017].

Drops Trunzo, B. and DeLeon, J. (2018). The New Luxury Whitepaper. Available at:https://mailchi.mp/highsnobiety/the-newluxury-whitepaper [17 Dec. 2018].

Von Wilpert, C. (2018). Supreme Streetwear’s Insane Success. [online] Sumo. Available at: https://sumo.com/stories/ supreme-marketing#3 [Accessed 7 Mar. 2018].

ROSENFELD, C. (2018). It’s Buly’s World | Rosewood Conversations. [online] Rosewood Hotels and Resorts. Available at: https://www.rosewoodhotels.com/conversations/its-bulys-world/ [Accessed 20 Feb. 2018].

Buly1803.com. (2019). Heritage. [online] Available at: https://www.buly1803.com/en/content/27-heritage [Accessed 26

Zhang, J. (2017). Trends: When Do People Shop Online?. [online] Blog.workarea.com. Available at: https://blog.workarea. com/trends-when-do-people-shop-online [Accessed 8 Jan. 2017].

Mar. 2019].

Poiret’s Chapters

GUCCI

Conlon, S. (2018). The ethics of wearing feathers: it’s not just live-plucking that’s a problem. [online] the Guardian.

Gucci.com. (2019). Gucci Décor | Homeware & Accessories | Gucci. [online] Available at: https://www.gucci.com/nl/ en_gb/ca/decor-c-decor [Accessed 26 Mar. 2019].

Branding, a. (2018). The rebirth of Gucci: a brand new strategy towards Millennials. [online] Modern Buyer Behaviour.

Available at: https://modernbuyerbehaviour.wordpress.com/2018/03/02/the-rebirth-of-gucci-a-brand-new-strategytowards-millennials/ [Accessed 2 Mar. 2018].

Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/may/21/the-ethics-of-wearing-feathers-its-not-just-liveplucking-thats-a-problem [Accessed 21 May 2018].

Customer Relationships

Adamska, M. (2019). The positioning of the four most valuable luxury fashion brands – 2019 update | BrandStruck.

Forshew, A. (2018). The Customers’ Experience now defines the Brand | CustomerThink. [online] Customerthink.com.

[online] BrandStruck. Available at: https://brandstruck.co/blog-post/positioning-three-valuable-luxury-fashion-brands/

Available at: http://customerthink.com/the-customers-experience-now-defines-the-brand/ [Accessed 26 May 2018].

[Accessed 14 Jan. 2019].

80

Branco Riquelme

Levi Ramaekers

Emma van Bokhoven

Magda Domagala

Amsterdam Fashion Institure

Isa Nijmans

Mieke Dewez

Brands & Identity 2019

81

82