Chef's Table: Dinner and Drinks with a View

THE WILLARD EXECUTIVE CHEF JAMES CUNDIFF

BY KATIE JANSEN PHOTOS BY MASH PHOTOGRAPHY

Anew rooftop restaurant and bar opened last fall in Raleigh atop the AC Hotel Raleigh Downtown by Marriott, giving residents and hotel guests alike a view from seven stories up.

Those looking for panoramic views of the city will delight in visiting The Willard, named for its location at the corner of Willard Place and Glenwood Avenue. Experience elevated seating offering sunset views, or lower seating surrounded by windows. Even the 22-seat bar offers expansive sights thanks to an open garage door that seamlessly connects indoor and outdoor spaces.

The Willard is the third in a trifecta of successful hotel restaurant/bar combos managed by hospitality company Early Bird Night Owl, which is also behind The Durham and its rooftop bar, and The Mayton in Cary, which houses Peck & Plume, a new modern American dining restaurant. With a tapas menu developed by Executive Chef James Cundiff, The Willard offers an inviting place to share dishes with friends and try something new and different. “Because the menu is centered on small plates, it makes it easy for guests to pick and choose, and share with each other,” Cundiff says.

When Cundiff learned of the Mediterraneaninspired theme, he immediately bought a stack of used cookbooks and started perusing them for inspiration. That research helped birth creative dishes such as the Crispy Shrimp Shakshouka, which features a traditional roasted tomato and red pepper sauce, and “tons of feta cheese and cilantro”—along with sumac-lime fried shrimp.

That dish—other than the shrimp—is vegan, which aligns with many of Cundiff’s menu items. As someone who cooks vegan food at home and believes the world is leaning more toward veganism, Cundiff likes how easily Mediterranean food enables the creation of interesting vegetarian or vegan dishes. “When we can make something vegetarian, that’s a huge thing for us,” he says. “We want to create dishes that are inclusive for all and offer something for everyone.” Cundiff loves spices like turmeric and cumin, along with the bold flavors central to Mediterranean cuisine.

The Willard is not Cundiff’s first foray into Mediterranean food—his first-ever job in the restaurant industry was at a family-owned Greek restaurant, where he worked as a dishwasher in high school. He remembers feeling inspired by the family’s passion for running the restaurant—and the fact that they made everything fresh and in-house. He takes a similar approach at The Willard, where he rotates menus based on the availability of seasonal ingredients.

The focus on local, seasonal items extends beyond the food menu into the bar’s cocktail program, says Jordan Kayser, The Willard’s director of food and beverage. Hyperlocal spirits from Oak City Amaretto and Raleigh Rum Company, as well as Durham Distillery’s Conniption gin, contribute to carefully considered custom cocktails that also feature housemade tinctures, syrups and shrubs. The menu features programs such as a barrel-aged Negroni and a barrel-aged Old-Fashioned, and also always includes a rotating draft cocktail. During these colder winter months, cocktails such as mulled cider and hot toddies will warm guests just as much as The Willard’s grand double-sided fireplace. Although the drink program places the greatest emphasis on cocktails, it also highlights rare wines and a handful of beers.

Both Kayser and Cundiff agree that the real defining characteristic of The Willard is its service. The Willard offers an “upscale but approachable” experience, Kayser says, and guests can expect both refined service and a relaxed atmosphere where everyone is welcome. “People have been waiting for this type of environment to come to Raleigh,” he says. “It’s really the first of its kind.”

In addition to the restaurant area, The Willard also offers event spaces and a banquet area available for rent, making it the perfect location for not only a night out, but also a corporate party or a wedding. Although the restaurant is currently focusing on dinner, there are plans to involve the community during daytime hours. From yoga classes followed by a mimosa, to children’s storytime hours hosted by local libraries, The Willard will use its perch above the city for a wide variety of events.

The restaurant team also plans to use its commercial kitchen for interactive community cooking classes led by Cundiff and other chefs and food entrepreneurs. “We have this amazing asset and venue within the community, and while it’s obvious what to do with it at night, we don’t want it always just sitting empty during the day,” says Craig Spitzer, founder and CEO of Early Bird Night Owl. “We want to create moments where people can find additive, enriching experiences.”

YIELD: 4 BURGERS

INGREDIENTS 2 medium onions 5 tablespoons of olive oil, divided 10 ounces of cherry tomatoes 1/8 teaspoon of salt 1/8 teaspoon of black pepper 1/8 teaspoon of garlic powder 1/8 teaspoon of dried oregano 1/8 teaspoon of dried thyme 1 cup of mayonnaise

Juice of ½ lemon 1 egg

Splash of heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon of cinnamon 1 teaspoon of cumin

Pinch of crushed red pepper

Pinch of cayenne pepper 1 pound of ground lamb 1 cup of panko breadcrumbs ¼ cup of chopped cilantro leaves

Optional toppings: feta cheese crumbles, romaine lettuce, tzatziki sauce and shaved red onions

DIRECTIONS Make the caramelized onions: Peel the onions, then trim both ends. Cut them in half and slice them vertically. (The knife blade should be parallel to where the onion’s stem was before trimming it.) Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and a pinch of salt. Sauté the onions for 10 minutes, until softened. Place the lid on the Dutch oven and cook contents for another 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. If needed, add ¼ cup of water to stir up the browned bits on the bottom of the pot. The onions are done when they are dark brown. Set them aside. Make the roasted tomato mayonnaise: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the cherry tomatoes and 3 tablespoons of olive oil along with the salt, black pepper, garlic powder, oregano and thyme in an oven-proof dish; cook for 15–18 minutes until the tomatoes are blistered. Place the roasted tomatoes with the oil and seasonings in a food processor with mayonnaise and lemon juice. Puree the ingredients until smooth. Taste, then add salt and black pepper as needed. Set aside. Combine ¼ cup of the chopped caramelized onions along with the egg, heavy cream, cinnamon, cumin, crushed red pepper and cayenne pepper in a medium bowl. Add the ground lamb and lightly mix all ingredients together. Fold in the panko and cilantro. Form the mixture into four patties and let them sit for a couple of hours before grilling or cooking them. Cook the burgers on the grill or in a cast iron skillet over medium heat until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Serve the burgers on a brioche bun, slathered with the roasted tomato mayonnaise and topped with tzatziki, shaved red onions, romaine lettuce and a slice of feta cheese.

DINNER AND DRINKS WITH A VIEW

A MULTIPURPOSE PERCH