Explore & Discover LIVERPOOL by Geoff Drake

A PHOTO-LOCATION AND VISITOR GUIDEBOOK

LIVERPOOL

VISIT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES, TAKE THE BEST PHOTOS

GEOFF DRAKE FOREWORD BY MIKE MCCARTNEY

CONTENTS

Liverpool area map �������������������������������� 6 Acknowledgements ������������������������������� 8 Foreword by Mike McCartney �������� 10 Introduction ��������������������������������������������� 14 Using this guidebook ������������������������� 16 Camera, lenses and captions ��������� 18 Access and behaviour ������������������������ 20 Getting to and around Liverpool ��������������������������������������������������� 22 Liverpool weather and seasonal highlights ������������������� 24 Liverpool climate ���������������������������������� 28 Where to stay, eat, shop and drink ��������������������������������������������������� 30 Music City and the Beatles tour ��� 36 Liverpool film locations ��������������������� 42 Liverpool events ������������������������������������ 44 Geoff’s Liverpool in a day ��������������� 46

4

CONTENTS

THE WATERFRONT

CITY CENTRE

Introduction ����������������������������������������� 52 Area Map ������������������������������������������������ 54 1 The Three Graces and the Pier Head �������������������������������� 58 2 Museum of Liverpool ���������������� 82 3 The Strand ������������������������������������� 90 4 Royal Albert Dock ����������������������� 98 5 King’s Dock and the Southern Docks ���������������� 120 6 Prince’s Dock ����������������������������� 126

Introduction & Area Map ��������� 172 1 Liverpool One ���������������������������� 176 2 Bluecoat ��������������������������������������� 184 3 St John’s Beacon ��������������������� 188 4 Cavern Quarter ������������������������� 194

COMMERCIAL DISTRICT Introduction & Area Map ��������� 134 1 Town Hall / Castle Street ������ 136 2 Modern Commercial District ���������������������������������������������� 150 3 Pride Quarter & Dale Street ������������������������������������ 158

ST GEORGE’S QUARTER Introduction & Area Map ��������� 204 1 Lime Street Station ����������������� 206 2 St George’s Hall ����������������������� 208 3 William Brown Street ������������� 216

ROPEWALKS & THE BALTIC TRIANGLE Introduction & Area Map ��������� 228 1 Baltic Triangle ���������������������������� 230 2 Ropewalks ����������������������������������� 234 3 Chinatown ���������������������������������� 242

HOPE STREET (GEORGIAN) & KNOWLEDGE QUARTERS Introduction & Area Map ��������� 248 1 Hope Street �������������������������������� 250 2 Georgian Terraced Houses and Surrounding Area ����������� 260 3 Anglican Cathedral ����������������� 268 4 Metropolitan Cathedral (Catholic Cathedral) ��������������� 284 5 University of Liverpool ���������� 292

NORTH LIVERPOOL

ACROSS THE MERSEY

Introduction & Area Map ��������� 298 1 Everton Park ������������������������������� 300 2 Liverpool and Everton Football Clubs ��������������������������� 306 3 Tobacco Warehouse ��������������� 318 4 ‘Another Place’ – Crosby ����� 322

Introduction & Area Map ��������� 348 1 Mersey Ferry ������������������������������ 350 2 Liverpool Skyline from the Wirral ������������������������������������� 358 3 New Brighton ���������������������������� 370

SOUTH LIVERPOOL

About the Author ������������������������������ 378 About fotoVUE ����������������������������������� 380 Location Index ����������������������������������� 382

Introduction & Area Map ��������� 330 1 The Beatles �������������������������������� 332 2 Sefton Park and Lark Lane ������������������������������������� 338

CONTENTS

5

A565

LIVERPOOL AREA MAP Lunt To Southport

Thornton A565

7

Crank

M57

A5036

2. COMMERCIAL DISTRICT

Bootle

7. NORTH LIVERPOOL A59 page 298

A565

Mers

A5089

ey

Vale Park

page 172

A57

A59

A5047 Lime St. Stn

A5036

A553

Birkenhead 9. ACROSS THE MERSEY A552

MAR SEP APR AUG

CT FEB O NOV

JAN EC D

Bebington

mile

To Manchester, Leeds, Hull M6 South & M1

Clock Face

8

M62

A5080

M62

A57

6

Cronton

A5281

A5280

Bold Heath

Warrington

A557 A57

Sefton Park

1

Penketh North A5080 Atlantic Ocean

A5058 Calderstones Park

Woolton Allerton

Halewood

page 330

A562 A557

Hough Green

A562

Ireland

Celtic Sea

Garston Speke Hall, Garden & Estate Liverpool John Lennon Airport

Irish Sea

Widnes

A562

A562 North Sea

Edinburgh

LIVERPOOL

Dublin

Hunt’s Cross

Great Sankey

Northern Ireland Belfast

Ditton

A561

Speke & Garston Coastal Reserve

Scotland

Farnworth

Tarbock A5300 Green Connecting services to Warrington & Manchester

A562

Grassendale

Port Sunlight SUNSET SUNRISE 0

Dream Scuplture

Burtonwood

Sutton Leach

A5080

PR SEP MAR OCT FEB AUG A NOV MAY JAN JUL DEC JUN

Storeton

Rainhill

Connecting services to Manchester

Childwall

Merseyrail City Line

8. SOUTH LIVERPOOL

New Ferry

A569

7

A5058

A562

MAY JUL JUN

Merseyrail Wirral Line

M57

5

Merseyrail Northern Line A41

A570

M62

A561

Rock Ferry

Prescot

A5089

A561

Thatto Heath

A57

6. HOPE STREET (GEORGIAN) & KNOWLEDGE QUARTERS

1 to 6

Birkenhead

A58

page 248

Liverpool

A5030

Knowsley Safari Park

A57

page 228

Seacombe

M53

2

5. ROPEWALKS & THE BALTIC TRIANGLE

A565

A572

A58

A5058

A59

Prenton

West Derby

Newton-leWillows A570

White Man’s Dam

page 204

A551

A5139

Knowsley Park

4. ST GEORGE’S QUARTER

A580

Haydock

Mill Wood Nature Reserve

Wales

England London

A533

Speke

A561

er

A580

Knowsley

3. CITY CENTRE

23

A599

St Helens A58

page 134

A580

River A554

A570

4

M57

A580

Connecting services to Wigan & Preston

5

page 52

M6 A49

A58

A580

A5207

1.THE WATERFRONT

24

Carr Mill Dam

A580

A565

The Wirral

A5208

A506

Seaforth

New Brighton

Chadwick Green

Moss Bank

6

Merseyrail Northern Line

Ashton-inMakerfield

Garswood

A571

A5208

Aintree

A5036

page 348

A570

A59

Litherland

Seaforth Nature Reserve

A49

Kirkby

Ford

Bryn

A506

Seaforth Nature Trail

page 322

25

A571

Billinge

Riv

Rimrose Valley Country Park

Netherton

Three Sisters Nature Reserve

Rainford

A570

Melling

A5758

7. NORTH LIVERPOOL Another Place

Connecting services to Wigan & Preston

Tower Hill

A49

A571

M6

To the Lake District & Scotland

Siding Lane Nature Reserve

M58

Sefton

Crosby

To M6 & North West

1

Maghull

Little Crosby

Rainford Junction

A506

A59

e Mers y

English Channel

FOREWORD BY MIKE MCCARTNEY

Photography, it’s in your DNA, you either love it or you don’t.

People ask me, “Do you still take photos?” I answer, “Yes, you can’t stop!” When a subject presents itself or the light hits a certain way, the photo has to be taken! It’s a curse.

Mike McCartney was born and raised in Liverpool. As a professional photographer, he has documented the city, its culture and people, and especially its music scene, with his camera for 60-years. Mike has published several photography books and exhibited his photographic work world-wide.

Now it’s nice to see another photographer stalking my old hunting grounds of Liverpool, and showing off its many facets. It’s a fascinating, unique city which I’ve shot so many times over the years, but it’s hard to get a ‘different’ shot of the familiar places and subjects, a monumental task! So it’s lovely to see new angles in Geoff’s book. Some taken from above with a drone (unless Geoff knows a friendly Scouse giant!).

With images of E Chambré Hardman’s wonderful time warp house in 59 Rodney Street, the interiors of our magnificent Anglican and Catholic Cathedrals (or should we call the latter Paddy’s Wigwam?) and nice to see the marbleous bogs, oops, the gents toilets of the Philharmonic Pub (sorry ladies, I believe there’s no marble in yours!).

A great pub though, which was very handy for the Scaffold when we played the Everyman Theatre.

Geoff has included my old home at 20 Forthlin Road which was bought by the National Trust when they saw my photographs taken in the house in the early 1960s and nice to see John’s yellow psychedelic Roller again. John showed me the original car in his London garage, pointing out the television set, to be viewed from the back seat!

The sculptured bodies of Anthony Gormley throughout Crosby Beach are always good to see, a view not to be missed (and photographed).

Finally, its luvly to see Sir Pete Blake’s beautifully painted ferry crossing the Mersey; a sight which always brightens up your day.

Born in Walton, Liverpool in 1944, two years after his older brother, the Beatle, Sir Paul McCartney, Mike was originally an apprentice hairdresser before joining the Scaffold (formerly the Liverpool One Fat Lady Non Electric Show) alongside fellow Liverpudlians, the poet Roger McGough and the comedian John Gorman.

Mike McCartney © Sonny McCartney

Scaffold met with success in 1967 with the top-ten hit Thank U Very Much penned by Mike, which was a favourite song of the Queen, the Queen Mother, and then-Prime Minister Harold Wilson. The song holds a mystery: what exactly is ‘the Aintree Iron’? Mike is not telling.

In 1968, Scaffold’s song Lily the Pink reached No.1 in the UK singles chart. Other hits included the theme tune to the sitcom, the Liver Birds, featuring Mike whistling, and the song Liverpool Lou, arranged by ‘our kid’ Paul.

Mike lives on the Wirral overlooking the Dee estuary, where he raised his six children. Actively involved with several local charities and promoting the arts Mike was awarded the British Empire Medal in the Queen’s birthday honours list in 2019.

Mike’s latest photography book is Mike McCartney’s Early Liverpool and it is available from Genesis Publications. www.genesis-publications.com

I have enjoyed looking at Geoff’s images as I’m sure you will too.

Mike McCartney Liverpool, November 2023

10

FOREWORD

FOREWORD

11

INTRODUCTION

Liverpool’s fortunes have changed dramatically over the most recent centuries of its 800 year history. The city’s prime location on the west coast of England, pioneering docks, warehouses and transportation systems all helped to establish the port as one of the busiest and wealthiest in the world during the 1800s.

After London, Liverpool truly was the ‘second city of the British Empire’.

However, the subsequent sharp decline in the use of these docks, combined with the devastating effect of the targeted bombing during the Second World War, contributed to it becoming an almost forgotten city by the 1980s. There was mass unemployment and the government of the time had all but turned its back on Liverpool and its people. Thankfully, with investment from the European Union and a huge boom in its tourism industry ignited by its appointment as European Capital of Culture in 2008, the city has now well and truly pulled itself back from the brink.

Today, Liverpool is again one of the finest cities in the world, featuring brilliant examples of both historic and modern architecture throughout.

Its famous waterfront and unique Liver Birds, unrivalled music scene, unbeatable sporting reputation, restaurants, bars and pubs that

Previous spread: the Liver Birds atop the Liver Building ‘rise above’ the fog. Sony NEX-5T, 55–210mm f/4.5-6.3, ISO 100, 1/500s at f/9.0. Nov.

14

INTRODUCTION

buzz with life, and of course, its people, have all helped Liverpool become the destination of choice for visitors from around the globe.

As a photographer, I feel fortunate to be able to capture such a photogenic location on an almost daily basis. The city is simply bursting with photographic potential.

This book will provide a comprehensive guide to all of Liverpool’s most popular locations as well as other, perhaps less well known spots. As with any visit to a new destination, depending on time you may wish to prioritise capturing the classic viewpoints, and that is perfectly understandable.

However, wherever possible I would encourage you to use my photographs and guidance as a starting point for what you can achieve with your camera or phone camera in Liverpool. Conditions, light, and the urban landscape of the city itself are ever changing, and it is perhaps these infinite possibilities every time you visit any location that makes photography so appealing, as well as mentally rewarding.

In the same way that this ‘wondrous place’ continues to inspire and amaze me, I hope it will you too.

Geoff Drake November 2023

Opposite: photographing the fireworks from Water Street.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 6400, 1/50s at f/2.8. Nov.

MUSIC CITY AND THE BEATLES TOUR BEATLES LOCATIONS This is a list of the most significant Beatles locations in Liverpool which you can visit either as a self-guided tour using the map overleaf or go on one of several guided Beatles tours such as the Liverpool Beatles Tours, the City and Beatles Tour with Hop-On Hop-Off Ticket (a bus) and the Beatles Magical Mystery Bus Tour.

The page numbers after a location refers to the particular chapter the Beatles location is included in, with directions and photographs.

1 The Beatles Story Exhibition/Museum (page 98) This museum, located at Britannia Vaults, Albert Dock, offers an immersive experience, showcasing the journey of the Beatles from their humble beginnings to global stardom.

Liverpool’s rich and diverse musical history originated from the ships that arrived at its docks. The influx of Irish immigrants to the city during the mid 19th century brought traditional Irish folk songs and sea shanties to the city’s pubs and social clubs. As the city became wealthier, new music venues opened which allowed working class people to appreciate live entertainment. In addition, those Liverpudlians that worked on the ships that sailed from the port would often return bringing a variety of different cultural aspects back with them from around the world. In the 1950s it was the rock‘n’roll records from America, and the musical instruments that the sailors had learnt to play, that hugely influenced the Merseybeat sound encapsulated by the Beatles.

For anyone interested in finding out more, the Museum of Liverpool has a fantastic permanent exhibition all about Liverpool’s musical heritage.

For a listing of what’s on, visit: www.liverpoolmusiccity.com www.liverpoolirishfestival.com

www.visitliverpool.com

www.theguideliverpool.com

On the following map are the locations and a list of:

Music continued to flourish in the city despite, or perhaps because of, the economic struggles of the 70s and 80s; the legendary Eric’s, an alternative music club located across the street from the Cavern, inspired many of Liverpool’s famous post punk generation of musicians. The 1990s saw the arrival of the famous ‘superclub’ Cream at Nation, and in 2003 the Guinness Book of Records awarded Liverpool the title ‘Capital of Pop’ due to it having produced more number one singles than any other city in the world.

36

MUSIC CITY AND THE BEATLES TOUR

1 Record shops, especially independent shops that sell vinyl. 6 2 Music venues and dance clubs. 1 3 Theatre and concert venues. 5 4 Museums, several of which are music related.

5 The Beatles locations.

Above: the Beatles statue and fab4 cafe at the Pier Head.

Sony a7Rii, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 100, 1/160s at f/6.3. May.

2 John Lennon Peace Monument, Kings Dock (page 120) The John Lennon Peace Monument, also known as the European Peace Monument, is entitled Peace & Harmony and is dedicated to the memory of John Lennon.

3 The Beatles Statue (page 78) Located at Pier Head to celebrate the band’s contribution to music. They are a popular spot for people to take photos and commemorate the Fab Four. It was created by sculptor Andy Edwards and unveiled in 2015. Look out for the hidden secrets of the statues.

Mathew Street, home of the Cavern Club. Sony a7Rii, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 1600, 1/160s at f/2.0. Mar.

4 Cavern Club (page 194) Mathew Street is synonymous with the Beatles and is home to the famous Cavern Club. The club played a significant role in the band’s early career and is still a vibrant music venue today.

5 Liverpool Beatles Museum (page 194) This museum, situated on Mathew Street, houses over 300 pieces of genuine Beatles memorabilia. It offers a fascinating insight into the band’s history and legacy.

A replica of John Lennon’s Rolls Royce which also offers Beatles tours. Sony a7Riv, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 100, 1/800s at f/5.6. Nov.

6 The Grapes (25 Mathew St, L2 6RE) This pub was a popular hangout spot for the Beatles in their early days. It’s still open today and offers live music performances.

MUSIC CITY AND THE BEATLES TOUR

37

MUSIC CITY AND THE BEATLES TOUR 10 The Blue Angel Nightclub (106–108 Seel St, L1 4BL) The Blue Angel, also known as “The Raz” is located where Seel Street meets Berry Street in Liverpool city centre. It is a venue in Liverpool where the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan and many other bands performed in the 1960s.

11 Ye Cracke (13 Rice St, L1 9BB) Ye Cracke is a pub in Rice Street, just off Hope Street, it was frequented by John Lennon and his girlfriend Cynthia when they were at art school.

12 Liverpool Institute for Performing Arts (Mount St, L1 9HF) The Liverpool Institute for Performing Arts (LIPA) is a performing arts higher education institution in Liverpool, founded by Paul McCartney and Mark Featherstone-Witty and opened in 1996. Formerly it was the Liverpool Institute High School for Boys, Paul McCartney’s old school.

13 Yoko Ono Lennon Centre (Oxford St, L7 3NY)

A busker plays alongside the Beatles. Sony a7Riv, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 125, 1/125s at f/1.8. Sep.

7 Eleanor Rigby Statue (page 163) The Eleanor Rigby statue is on Stanley Street and was designed and made by the entertainer Tommy Steele.

It is based on the subject of the Beatles’ 1966 song “Eleanor Rigby” by the Lennon and McCartney.

8 Brian Epstein Statue (page 197) A bronze statue of Brian Epstein ‘the fifth Beatle’ and their manager was unveiled on the corner of Button Street and Whitechapel near the former site of his family’s NEMS record shop in Liverpool. It was sculpted by Andy Edwards and Paul McCartney’s cousin Jane Robbins.

9 The Jacaranda (21–23 Slater St, L1 4BW) This club was one of The Beatles’ favourite hangout spots in their early days. It’s still open today and offers live music performances.

38

MUSIC CITY AND THE BEATLES TOUR

The Yoko Ono Lennon Centre is home to the University of Liverpool’s new 400-seat concert hall, the Tung Auditorium. It was opened in 2022 by Sean Ono Lennon, son of John Lennon and Yoko Ono Lennon.

The legendary independent record shop, Probe Records. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 1000, 1/160s at f/4.0. Oct.

14 Casbah Coffee Club (8 Hayman’s Green, L12 7JG)

17 George Harrison’s childhood home (page 334)

This club was owned by Pete Best’s mother (Pete was the drummer for the Beatles before Ringo Starr) and was a popular hangout spot for the Beatles in their early days.

It’s now open to visitors and offers a glimpse into the band’s formative years.

18 Paul McCartney’s childhood home (page 334) 19 John Lennon’s childhood home (page 334)

ON SOUTH LIVERPOOL MAP (page 330)

20 St. Peter’s Church, Woolton (page 334)

15 Ringo Starr’s Childhood home (page 334)

This hall was where John Lennon met Paul McCartney for the first time in 1957. It’s now open to visitors and offers a glimpse into the band’s early days.

16 Penny Lane Road Sign (page 332) This street in Liverpool was immortalised in one of the Beatles’ most famous songs. Visitors can explore the area and see landmarks mentioned in the song.

21 Strawberry Fields (page 332) Strawberry Field is famous for inspiring one of the Beatles’ most beloved songs. Visitors can photograph the gates, explore the exhibition, beautiful gardens, and soon-to-beopened bandstand.

RECORD SHOPS AND THEIR LOCATIONS 1 81Renshaw (81 Renshaw Street, L1 2SJ) 2 69A (75 Renshaw Street, L1 2SJ) 3 Pop Boutique (110 Bold Street, L1 4HY) 4 Dig Vinyl (80 Bold Street, L1 4HR) 5 Probe Records (1 The Bluecoat, School Lane, L1 3BX) 6 Jacaranda Records (21–23 Slater Street, L1 4BW) 7 Jacaranda Records + Phase ONE (40 Seel Street, L1 4BE) 8 HMV (Unit 1 Williamson Square, L1 1EJ) 9 Aintree Vinyl (112 Warbreck Moor, Fazakerley, L9 0HY) 10 Collect and Survive Record Store (124 South Rd, Waterloo, L22 0LR) 11 Cult Vinyl (151 Great Howard Street, L3 7DL) 12 Defend Vinyl (395 Smithdown Rd, L15 3JJ) 13 Matsuri Records (1 Kings Dock St, L1 8JS) 14 Skeleton Records (11a Oxton Rd, Birkenhead CH41 2QQ) 15 Musical Box Record Shop, (457 W Derby Rd, Liverpool L6 4BL)

MUSIC CITY AND THE BEATLES TOUR

39

GEOFF’S LIVERPOOL IN A DAY If you are visiting the city fleetingly, possibly as a passenger on one of the cruise ships which generally only docks in Liverpool for a day, then I’m sure you will want to maximise your time.

I have devised a route around some of the city’s most famous landmarks which is possible to do in a day, as all are virtually within easy walking distance of each other. The circuit starts and finishes at the Pier Head and includes a few recommended stops on the way for refreshment.

Start your day by admiring the Three Graces and the other buildings here on the Pier Head. At this hour the Beatles statue should be quiet enough to take photographs

without having to queue. The first River Explorer Ferry departs from the Gerry Marsden Terminal at 10am and is normally the least busy of the day so take a seat up on the front for the best views of the city skyline.

amazing Central Library before heading up to St George’s Hall and Plateau. From here it is a 20 minute walk uphill in order to visit the Metropolitan Cathedral so you may wish to jump in a taxi from within Lime Street station.

Once back on dry land, walk up past the White Star Line building on James Street, to Castle Street and then to the Town Hall. Don’t forget to look up at the magnificent architecture all around you as you go. There are plenty of places to stop for a coffee, but I recommend one of the independents like Moose Coffee or the Lucy in the Sky Coffee Shop, both close to the Town Hall. Dale Street will lead you past the Municipal Buildings, to the bottom of William Brown Street. Be sure to take a look inside the

Take in all of the viewpoints as you stroll along Hope Street, towards the Anglican Cathedral. If you’re feeling energetic then head up to the open roof of the tower to survey the whole city.

By now you will probably have worked up an appetite so walk down the hill, passing the Chinese Arch and BombedOut Church, on your way to Bold Street, where you will be spoilt for choice with all the restaurants and bistros.

After lunch, head to Mathew Street to see ‘where it all began’ for The Beatles, in the Cavern Club. Treat yourself to a drink whilst watching one of the live performers that are on stage every afternoon. If you can tear yourself away, you still have time to visit the Bluecoat and Liverpool One, before walking the short distance across to the Royal Albert Dock. Here you can buy some Liverpool souvenirs from the numerous gift shops, or simply grab a tea or coffee and a piece of cake at one of the independent dockside cafes and admire the views. Finally walk along the waterside back to the Pier Head.

1

THREE GRACES AT PIER HEAD P.58

2

BEATLES STATUE

P.78

3

RIVER EXPLORER FERRY

P.350

10 ST GEORGE’S HALL

P.208

11 METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL P.284

12 HOPE STREET

P.250

4

WHITE STAR LINE BUILDING P.96

5

CASTLE STREET

P.136

6

TOWN HALL

P.138

13 ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL

P.268

14 CHINESE ARCH

P.242

15 ST LUKES / BOLD STREET

P.238

7

DALE STREET

8

WILLIAM BROWN STREET

P.216

9

CENTRAL LIBRARY

P.222

16 CAVERN QUARTER

P.194

17 LIVERPOOL ONE

P.176

18 ROYAL ALBERT DOCK

P.98

46

GEOFF’S LIVERPOOL IN A DAY

P.158

GEOFF’S LIVERPOOL IN A DAY

47

THE WATERFRONT – INTRODUCTION “Liverpool – threshold to the ends of the earth” Shipping lies at the heart of Liverpool’s rich history. During the 18th and 19th centuries the city expanded rapidly, becoming vital to the British Empire. At its height the port accounted for 40 per cent of all global trade. This was largely due to a combination of factors including its prime location, pioneering docks and warehouses, innovative transport systems, and efficient port management.

Unfortunately, it is also important to recognise Liverpool’s infamous role in the transatlantic trade triangle throughout the 1700s. Many of the ships that sailed from the port would trade UK manufactured goods for people in West Africa before transporting them, as slaves, in appalling conditions to the West Indies and America. There they would exchange them for raw materials such as cotton, sugar, tobacco, and rum, which would be brought back to Britain. This hideous malpractice, finally abolished in 1807, certainly helped contribute to the city’s growth.

Liverpool continued to thrive for the following century.

The first inter-city railway in the world, connecting Liverpool to Manchester, opened here in 1830, and the revolutionary warehouses of the Albert Dock soon followed in 1846. The wealth generated from Liverpool’s ongoing role as a key port for Britain can be seen today in the fine examples of historical architecture along the waterfront, encapsulated by the magnificent Three Graces of the Pier Head. They were purposely built, at the beginning of the 20th century, as symbols of the city’s opulence.

decorated with maritime references and the Liver Building, once Europe’s tallest structure, is synonymous with the city. Slightly darker in appearance than its neighbouring Graces, the Liver Building is somewhat reminiscent of a structure from the fictitious Gotham City and was actually used as such during filming for ‘The Batman’ movie. Its famous and unique mythical Liver Birds can be seen and photographed from many locations throughout Liverpool and across the Mersey. The female, Bella, looks out to the sea waiting for the sailors to return, whilst the male, Bertie, watches over the city and its citizens. For a similar vantage point to the birds, take the guided tour up to the top.

The beautiful Art Deco Ventilation Tower, modern Mersey Ferry Terminal and Mann Island complex, and various memorials and statues including one of The Beatles, are all located here on the Pier Head. The pretty White Star Line Building with its links to the Titanic, and the historic Anglican parish church are nearby on the city side of The Strand.

The interesting Museum of Liverpool provides further photographic opportunities both inside and out. Within walking distance is Liverpool’s most visited attraction, the once pioneering Royal Albert Dock and its surrounding docks. There is no greater symbol of the city’s changing fortunes and today some of the most attractive views of the waterfront area can be captured from here.

King’s Dock, home to the Liverpool Wheel and arena, is located beyond the Albert Dock. To the north of the Pier Head is Prince’s Dock with its modern developments, whilst the visiting cruise ships berth nearby.

It makes sense to start your exploration of Liverpool right here at the Pier Head and waterfront. There is a lot to photograph and all within easy walking distance. Both the stunning Cunard and Port of Liverpool Buildings are

Previous spread: a drone view of the Three Graces and the Pier Head. DJI Mini 3 Pro, 24mm f/1.7, ISO 100, 0.4s at f/1.7. Jun.

52

THE WATERFRONT – INTRODUCTION

Opposite: looking at the Waterfront from the Dazzle Ferry.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/8.0. May.

1

THE THREE GRACES AND THE PIER HEAD

The Beatles statue on a wet night. Sony a7R, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 8.0s at f/10. Feb.

Viewpoint 7 – Beatles Statue

Other Monuments and Statues

Of all Liverpool’s numerous statues the Beatles at the Pier Head is arguably the most popular, and certainly the most photographed. It is very rare to find the Fab Four without posing visitors, and there can often be a queue of people waiting their turn to take a selfie. My advice is either to embrace this from a suitable distance by including others as well as the often present busker, or, to visit either early or late in the day when you are more likely to find yourself alone with the band. Photographing from a low angle it is possible to include the Liver Building over their shoulders.

A good sunset can silhouette the oversized figures and provide long shadows across the paving. For the dedicated Beatles fans look out for the little intricacies, all worth capturing, that the sculptor has included on each of the four; John has acorns in his hand symbolising peace, Paul is carrying a camera in tribute to his late photographer wife Linda, George’s belt is inscribed with an Indian mantra, and, if you can get your camera down low enough, the sole of Ringo’s boot has L8 inscribed on it, which is the area of Liverpool he once lived.

The Pier Head is also home to several of the city’s many public sculptures. Highlights, including a statue of war hero Captain Johnnie Walker looking out to the Mersey, the equestrian statue of Edward VII, the unusual sculpture of a large telescope commemorating local astronomer Jeremiah Horrocks, and the stone Titanic Memorial, all make for interesting images, with or without the grand backdrop of the Three Graces.

Opposite: the Beatles statue at sunset. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 500, 1/60s at f/18. Oct.

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THE WATERFRONT – THE THREE GRACES AND THE PIER HEAD

Queuing to photograph the statue. Sony a7Rii, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/7.1. Jun.

THE WATERFRONT – THE THREE GRACES AND THE PIER HEAD

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ROYAL ALBERT DOCK

Viewpoint 2 – Canning Dock There are often interesting ships or boats moored in Canning Dock. Photographing from anywhere around the perimeter of the dock, either at Mann Island, on the Strand side, or from close to the dry docks, will allow you to position them with a background of the dock pump house and chimney, and the Maritime Museum side of the Albert Dock. You are facing south here so will be shooting into the sun. However, any late sunshine makes the warm brick buildings glow.

Hartley Quay is the name of the wide walkway which runs along Canning Dock on the museum side of the Albert Dock, and it is from here that you can capture some classic Liverpool views towards the Pier Head. A long lens compresses the Three Graces above the GWR building and dry dock ship masts. Using a wider lens allows you to include the more modern surrounding architecture of the white Museum of Liverpool and the black Mann Island buildings, within a panoramic. The angles of both structures draw the eye towards the Graces. Cobble stones, chain railings, quayside bollards, old style lamp posts, boats, and Canning Dock itself, can all provide foreground subjects if you wish.

As you walk along the quayside there are various catering vehicles, some more authentic and therefore photogenic than others. A traditional carousel is also located here.

Long lens view of the Graces from near to the Albert Dock.

Sony a7Rii, 40mm f/2.0, ISO 100, 1/500s at f/8.0. Jun.

Above: ‘Brocklebank’ ship moored in Canning Dock. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 2.5s at f/11. Mar.

Below: using a wide angle lens to emphasise the foreground.

Sony a7Rii, 18mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, 1/60s at f/11. Jun.

A huge anchor marks the entrance to Liverpool’s Maritime Museum which, along with the vitally important International Slavery Museum within, are definitely worth visiting if time allows.

Continuing past the Pump House, the road separates Canning and Salthouse docks. From here, a composition of the Three Graces between the two larger Mann Island structures works particularly well, especially if there is any sort of reflection in the dock water below. Positioning yourself just before the corner, where Salthouse Quay meets the Strand, allows you to use the dock wall and chains to your right as a lead in line. It can be quite a busy thoroughfare along here so care is needed if using a tripod.

One option is to carefully place your tripod on the other side of the low railings on the fairly wide dock side whilst you remain on the path.

‘Love locks’ along the chains at Canning Dock. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 10s at f/14. Aug.

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Hartley Quay is the cobbled street that runs between Canning Dock and the Albert Dock warehouses. There is always something to photograph here, whether it be the variety of vehicles selling food and drink, the seagulls, boats or the sailors looking after them, or the carousel (VP2).

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THE WATERFRONT – ROYAL ALBERT DOCK

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COMMERCIAL DISTRICT – TOWN HALL / CASTLE STREET

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CITY CENTRE – INTRODUCTION

The narrow Mathew Street, home of the famous Cavern Club, can just about be made out when looking westward from the beacon. The most popular Beatles attraction in Liverpool, the club was where the band first performed at lunchtimes back in the early sixties, before going on to conquer the world stage. There is still live music performed almost every day of the week, and trying to capture the unique atmosphere and history, both inside the underground club and in the surrounding streets of the lively Cavern Quarter, can be an exciting challenge for any photographer, whether or not one is a fan of the Beatles.

All of these busy pedestrianised areas of the city centre are perfect for practising street photography so have your camera ready.

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Opposite: Peter’s Lane (VP7). Sony a7Rii, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 1600, 1/160s at f/3.5. Oct.

LOCATIONS 1

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Within the boundaries of Liverpool One is Bluecoat.

Now an arts centre, it is the city’s oldest surviving building.

The historic property, cobbled courtyard, and small rear garden provide a welcome oasis of calm within the surrounding city centre.

St John’s Beacon is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Liverpool’s skyline. A local radio station’s studios are based at the top, but the viewing platform is also open to the public daily. Take a trip up there in order to get some of the highest views of the city below.

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Church Street, the main route through the city centre, takes its name from St Peter’s Church, the Anglican pro-cathedral and parish church of Liverpool which stood here until 1922. An iron cross in the paving of this now pedestrianised shopping street still marks the location of the church. In 2008 the area between Church Street and the Royal Albert Dock was transformed when the UK’s largest outdoor shopping complex, the innovative Liverpool One development, was completed. A hugely ambitious project that has massively benefited the city’s appeal as well as its economy since opening, a variety of architects were involved, resulting in the different styles of contemporary architecture found here. Photographers will discover an array of unique images to be taken that are not always found in more traditional city centres.

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Liverpool One and the other busy streets of the city centre are perfect for street photography. It is always worth keeping your camera on standby ready to capture passers-by against interesting back drops, the variety of buskers, or simply people feeding the pigeons!

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Above: looking in the window of one of the bbq restaurants on Bold Street. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, 1/160s at f/3.2. Nov. Below: the legendary busker has been playing outside this Mexican restaurant for years. Sony a7Rii, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 2500, 1/160s at f/2.0. Jan.

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ROPEWALKS & THE BALTIC TRIANGLE – ROPEWALKS

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As well as the large ‘Crown of Thorns’ at the centre, there are several small chapels located around the edge of the cathedral, each providing different photographic opportunities (VP1, VP3).

Opposite: the view of Hope Street and the Metropolitan Cathedral from the tower of the Anglican Cathedral (VP7).

Sony a7R, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 10.0s at f/10. Jan.

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HOPE STREET (GEORGIAN) AND KNOWLEDGE QUARTERS – METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL (CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL)

HOPE STREET (GEORGIAN) AND KNOWLEDGE QUARTERS – METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL (CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL)

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LIVERPOOL AND EVERTON FOOTBALL CLUBS Liverpool Football Club is one of the most widely supported teams in the world, and the most successful British club ever. Their great neighbours and rivals, Everton Football Club, have also had their triumphs over the years, and proudly hold the record for having played in England’s top division for more seasons than any other team.

The rivalry between the two has always existed; Everton originally played their matches at Anfield but, after a disagreement with the land owner, John Houlding, they were forced to move the mile across Stanley Park to a new home, Goodison Park. Houlding then founded Liverpool to play at his now vacant Anfield.

Above: the Dixie Dean statue at Everton. Sony a7Riv, 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/4.5. Nov. Below: badges for sale at Everton. Sony a7Riv, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, 1/1000s at f/8.0. May.

Liverpool’s stadium capacity has recently been increased with the redevelopment of Anfield. At the time of writing, Everton are about to move home again, to a new state of the art stadium at BramleyMoore Dock on the waterfront. Whether a fan or not, these two great footballing institutions, their surroundings, and their loyal supporters, provide interesting subject matter for any photographer.

What to shoot and viewpoints A visit to either team’s ground on match day is an experience. Fans start to arrive approximately three hours before kick off, and there is an air of excitement and anticipation in and around the approaching streets, rarely experienced anywhere else. You don’t need to be inside the ground in order to try and capture this atmosphere. In fact, if fortunate to have a ticket, it should be noted that professional cameras are not permitted inside. Instead, wander around the exterior of the stadium with your camera on standby, and ideally a zoom lens in order to alter your focal length quickly. Photograph the many stalls selling the red or blue hats, scarfs, badges and flags, programme sellers, pubs, and of course, the crowds of people, or just individuals, proudly wearing their team colours. >> Opposite top: a team of youngsters practice in Stanley Park.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 100, 1/640s at f/8.0. Jun. Bottom left: a dedicated Liverpool fan on match day.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/4.0. Sep. Right: a supporter decides which badge to buy. Sony a7Rii, 85mm f/1.8, ISO 1600, 1/160s at f/2.5. Oct.

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1

THE BEATLES

The Beatles obviously play a huge part in Liverpool’s global appeal. Millions of people visit the city, many via John Lennon Airport, to see where the story of ‘four young lads who shook the world’ began. The Cavern Club in Mathew Street, as well as dedicated Beatles museums, hotels, statues, and gift shops, can all be found within the main part of the city. ‘Magical Mystery Tour’ buses, specific taxi tours, and bicycle and walking tours, all take fans to further afield Beatles landmarks such as Strawberry Fields and Penny Lane. You can even go inside the childhood homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney, and stand in the rooms where they wrote and rehearsed some of their very first hit singles

What to shoot and viewpoints The key city centre Beatles attractions, the Cavern Club and the Beatles Statue, have been covered elsewhere in this book, within their relevant location chapters. The following locations are all found here in the south of the city, where the four lived, first met each other, and where they drew some of the inspiration for their most famous songs.

Strawberry Fields John Lennon would often play in the grounds of this one time children’s home when he was young as it is not far from where he lived. It was made famous in 1967 with the release of the group’s seminal Strawberry Fields Forever, and the home’s bright red gated entrance became a place of pilgrimage for Beatles fans soon after. With the passing road here being so close to the gates, you are quite limited to what images you can take; a wide angle works best, but close ups of the much graffitied stone pillars either side of the gates are also an option. Not as photogenic, but definitely more authentic, are the original gates to the home which, since being stolen and then returned a few years ago, are now located securely within the visitor centre’s garden area. This recently built centre, owned by the Salvation Army, has an excellent exhibition all about the now demolished original children’s home that stood here, the history of the charity, and the John Lennon and Beatles connections.

Penny Lane The Penny Lane road sign signed by Paul McCartney.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/4.5. May.

St Barnabas church and the shelter in the middle of the roundabout. Sony a7Riv, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/9. Jul.

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Graffiti by Beatles fans at Strawberry Fields. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 320, 1/160s at f/4.0. May.

Paul would often meet John outside St Barnabas church on Penny Lane before they both took the bus from here into the city centre. What they observed whilst waiting at this busy junction inspired them to write the classic song a few years later. All of the referenced sights can still be seen – the barbershop, the bank, the shelter in the middle of the roundabout, and the fire station which is a short walk away. Unfortunately, being on a normal suburban high street, none of these locations make great photographs!

The most popular images taken here are of the ‘Penny Lane’ road signs, one of which is painted onto a stone wall and is protected by perspex glass, since Paul McCartney signed it on a recent visit.

Strawberry Fields gated entrance. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 320, 1/160s at f/4.0. May

The original gates now safely kept inside the grounds.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, 1/160s at f/3.2. Jul.

SOUTH LIVERPOOL – THE BEATLES

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ACROSS THE MERSEY

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LIVERPOOL SKYLINE FROM THE WIRRAL

New York, Shanghai, Dubai, Liverpool … many of the best city skylines are those bound by bodies of water. Although Liverpool doesn’t boast as many ‘skyscrapers’ as these much bigger cities, its silhouette is still one of the most recognisable in the world. Spread over one and a half miles along the waterfront, between the modern towers of Prince’s Dock to the north and the arena to the south, is a cross section of some of the city’s finest architecture.

Interestingly, due to its historical links with China, Liverpool is twinned with Shanghai, and the Bund part of Shanghai’s waterfront is quite similar in appearance to the Three Graces.

What to shoot and viewpoints As both of the Wirral ferry ports are located equidistant from Liverpool’s Pier Head, at the Mersey’s narrowest point, it makes sense to shoot the classic skyline composition from close to either of these accessible locations.

Seacombe is much more favourable to Woodside as this location provides a greater variety of shots, even allowing you to photograph from the nearby beach at very low tides.

Opposite: the Liverpool skyline reflected in a pool of water on the beach at Seacombe. Sony a7R, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/9.0. Sep. Colours of Liverpool reflected in the Mersey.

Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 25s at f/8.0. Jan.

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NEW BRIGHTON

Located at the mouth of the Mersey, this north eastern corner of the Wirral peninsula was notoriously frequented throughout the 18th and early 19th centuries by the many pirates, smugglers, and wreckers, who would prey on the Liverpool bound ships. By the 1850s Fort Perch Rock had been built in order to protect the Port of Liverpool, and some of the city’s wealthy merchants soon saw New Brighton, with its long sandy beaches, as a desirable location in which to reside. The town became a popular Victorian seaside resort, modelling itself on its famous namesake on the south coast of England.

Liverpudlians, keen to escape the industrial city at the weekends and during holidays, took the then direct ferry across the river in order to stroll along the pier, paddle in the sea, or play on the slot machines. Unfortunately, after the Second World War, the seaside town’s popularity greatly diminished. In 1986 photographer Martin Parr published his seminal book, ‘The Last Resort’ which, in a unique pioneering way through his use of colour in documentary photography, captured New Brighton and its working class visitors of the time brilliantly.

After years of neglect, the seaside town has been revived this century with a marine lake, restaurants, a large new theatre, and other attractions now lining the seafront. On sunny summer days people journey here to take in the seaside air and walk along the longest promenade in the UK. You may no longer be able to replicate some of Martin Parr’s most garish street photography, but New Brighton is still a great little location to explore with your camera.

Top: New Brighton beach and lighthouse. Sony a7Rii, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/10. May.

Opposite: an aerial view of New Brighton with the Liverpool skyline on the horizon. Taken from a temporary ferris wheel.

Sony a7R, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/11. Apr. ‘Best burgers in the Wirral’. Sony a7Riv, 35mm f/2.8, ISO 640, 1/500s at f/8.0. May.

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ACROSS THE MERSEY – NEW BRIGHTON

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR – GEOFF DRAKE Geoff Drake has been photographing Liverpool for the last ten years. In that time he has taken some of the most iconic images of the city. These include the Liver Birds ‘rising above’ a dense river fog, perfectly timed fireworks over the Pier Head, and ‘The Batman’ at the top of the Liver Building. Geoff uses Sony cameras, Sony and Zeiss lenses, his iPhone and DJI drones.

The lens he uses the most for the photographs in this book is the small and light Sony Zeiss 35mm f/2.8. At 35mm the camera is replicating a very similar field of vision to the human eye, perfect for many aspects of urban photography. He also uses a Sony 85mm f/1.8 and a Zeiss Batis 135mm f/2.8 and has recently started using the Sony GM 35mm f/1.4 as an upgrade to his trusty Sony Zeiss 35.

Like many professional photographers Geoff has no formal teaching in photography, but has invested his time studying various camera guide books and spending hours learning as much as he can from YouTube tutorials.

Then putting the time in both outdoors taking photographs, then back indoors using Adobe Lightroom to process his images.

He travels to take urban photographs including most of the major European cities, New York City, and recently Tokyo. For landscape photography his favourite places are the English Lake District, Norway and Iceland. As well as his range of prints available at his website Geoff offers photography presentations, guided photography walks around Liverpool, and one-to-one tuition.

www.drakephotography.co.uk Instagram @geoffdrake_images Twitter (or X) @Geoff_Drake

Opposite: Shibuya Crossing, Tokyo.

Sony a7Riv, 35mm f/1.4, ISO 1600, 1/160s at f/2.0. Apr.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR – GEOFF DRAKE

fotoVUE guidebooks take you to the most beautiful places to enjoy and photograph.

LIVERPOOL GEOFF DRAKE FOREWORD BY MIKE MCCARTNEY An essential companion for anyone with a camera who is visiting Liverpool.

Geoff Drake is one of Liverpool’s finest photographers. He takes us on a tour of the city and its suburbs from the Waterfront and its beautiful Three Graces, the neighbouring rejuvenated docks, the cathedrals, all things Beatles, the football stadiums, ferries across the Mersey, to the beguiling Anthony Gormley statues at Crosby. Along the way he helps you take the best photographs of this amazing city.

FEATURING: Three Graces & Pier Head • Museum of Liverpool • The Strand • Royal Albert Dock • King’s Dock Prince’s Dock • Town Hall & Castle Street • Modern Commercial District • Pride Quarter & Dale Street Liverpool One • Bluecoat • St John’s Beacon • Cavern Quarter • Lime Street Station • St George’s Hall William Brown Street • Baltic Triangle • Ropewalks • Chinatown • Hope Street • Georgian Terraces Anglican & Metropolitan Cathedrals • University of Liverpool • Everton Park • Liverpool & Everton Football Clubs • Tobacco Warehouse • Another Place - Anthony Gormley Statues, Crosby • The Beatles Sefton Park & Lark Lane • Mersey Ferry • Liverpool Skyline From The Wirral • New Brighton Over 600 colour images • Colour OS-style detailed maps • Smartphone scannable direction QR-codes Where to stay, eat & drink • Shopping • Best pubs • Music venues • Film locations • Events Self-guided Beatles tour • Liverpool in a day • Seasonal highlights www.fotovue.com

£29.95