
19 minute read
» ATTRACTIONS/OUTDOORS
by Weeklys
Stepping
Santa Cruz’s first walking guide is a unique way to discover—or rediscover—the landscape BY STEVE PALOPOLI Tome
They say the journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, and for Debbie Bulger, that step was onto the Beach Hill stairs that many locals—but not many tourists—know connect downtown Santa Cruz to the Beach Boardwalk via Cliff Street. There’s a reason those stairs are on the cover of Secret Walks and Staircases in Santa Cruz, the book she recently published with her husband Richard Stover.
It was 1986, and Bulger had come to Santa Cruz for the first time to run in the Wharf to Wharf race. She asked someone how she could get downtown from the beach, and they told her about the stairs. She loved the walk, but she didn’t love the sign on Cliff Street that said “Not a Through Street.” Bulger moved to Santa Cruz two years later, and she never really got over her beef with the sign.
Clearly the seed had been planted for Bulger to champion the Santa Cruz pedestrian. But it didn’t bear fruit until she had spent years on several local advisory committees and task forces, where the lack of attention to the local walking world was noted over and over.
Finally, Bulger decided to write it. It was six years in the making, and even then it took the eerie lull of quarantine last year to motivate her to pull it all together.
“I guess when we all got locked down, Richard and I got serious about it,” she says.
But there was plenty of work put into it before that, of course.
“There was about a year of planning where I made a list of all the pedestrian shortcuts and staircases,” she says. Then she and Stover walked the routes. Stover, the project’s computer tech, used open source data to track them, while Bulger preferred pushpins and yarn on a map of Santa Cruz. After a while, though, it started to look like one of those conspiracy theorists’ crazy charts that the FBI agents find in thriller films.
Then there’s the fact that not all walks are created equal—even if they sound great on paper.
“We would do the walks, and sometimes they didn’t work out,” Bulger says with a laugh.
But she’s proud of the 28 walks meticulously documented with photos, maps and a complete list of turns in the book—some of which even most locals won’t have walked before. Like the alley by Arana Gulch on pages 242-243.
Bulger says she doesn’t really have a favorite Santa Cruz walk; it depends on what she’s in the mood for at any given time. And when she says the best thing about walking in Santa Cruz is that we have the perfect weather for it, she doesn’t just mean a sunny stroll through Pogonip—she can be just as happy promenading down West Cliff Drive in the rain.
Stepping
STEEP IN HISTORY The ‘Anthony
stairs’ that run from Pacific Avenue to School Street near the Santa Cruz Mission were built in 1920. PHOTO: RICHARD STOVER
Perhaps what’s most impressive is that even after logging all these steps, she still finds something surprising almost every time she goes out for a walk, whether it’s a mother duck and her babies nesting in the Bay Street median or a particular kind of flower newly in bloom.
“You just have to keep your eyes open,” she says.
The book has been selling briskly, even though it was released when tourism was discouraged, or flatly prohibited. That means that plenty of locals have been using it to explore Santa Cruz in a different way than they might be used to. She knows one city planner, for instance, who bought the book and took a very, er, officious approach.
‘Secret Walks and Staircases in Santa Cruz’ is available at Bookshop Santa Cruz, the Santa Cruz Museum of Natural History and other places where books are sold. For more information, go to lostballoonpress.com.
Attractions
BOARDWALK

THINGS TO DO
Agricultural History Project Museum
2601 East Lake Ave, Watsonville, 831.724.5898, aghistoryproject.org See antique farm machinery and get fascinated by how they used to do it in the good old days.
Boardwalk Bowl
115 Cliff St, Santa Cruz, 831.426.3324, boardwalkbowl.com State-of-the-art bowling spot with arcade and lounge.
Capitola Historical Museum
410 Capitola Ave, Capitola, 831.464.0322, cityofcapitola.org/ capitola-museum Showcases photographs and artifacts dating back to the days of Camp Capitola.
Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve
1700 Elkhorn Rd, Watsonville, 831.728.2822, elkhornslough.org Tours, trails, exhibits and events led by knowledgeable naturalists. Explore woodlands, wetlands, and meadows at the center of Monterey Bay. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Elkhorn Slough Safari
7881 Sandholdt Rd, Moss Landing, 831.633.5555, elkhornslough.com Explore the wetlands on a 27-foot pontoon boat to spot sea otters, harbor seals, sea lions and more.
Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park
101 Big Trees Park Rd, Felton, 831.335.7077, parks.ca.gov Known for the 40-acre grove of oldgrowth redwood trees, this park is a short drive from Santa Cruz. Take the .8-mile flat loop trail through the gigantic coastal redwoods or visit the old Roaring Camp Railroad heritage railway.
Kinderwood Farms Goat Yoga
Aptos, 831.345.9766, kinderwoodfarms.com
Yoga with bouncing baby goats. It’s an experience you likely won’t forget.
San Lorenzo Valley Historical Museum
The San Lorenzo Valley is rich in historical interests, and this museum covers it all, from life-size dioramas depicting pioneer life to the tools they carried.
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
400 Beach St, Santa Cruz, 831.423.5590, beachboardwalk.com A limited selection of rides are open, with reservations recommended.
Santa Cruz Children’s Museum of Discovery
1855 41st Ave. #10, Capitola, 888424-8035, sccmod.org The Children’s Museum of Discovery seeks to inspire, delight and challenge by providing opportunities to interact with an innovative and unique learning environment for children and adults. Regular storytimes and other educational events for kids.
Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park
144 School St, Santa Cruz, 831.425.5849
Built during the 1800s, the Mission de la Exaltación de la Santa Cruz is where the town gets its name: Holy Cross.
Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History
705 Front St, Santa Cruz, 831.429.1964, santacruzmah.org Check out the ongoing exhibits and special events.
Santa Cruz Museum of Natural History
1305 East Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 831.420.6115, santacruzmuseum.org Discover the diverse flora and fauna of the Monterey Bay region at the Santa Cruz Museum of Natural History. The Museum features permanent and special exhibits designed to engage visitors of all ages, as well as monthly events. Find the Museum across from Seabright State Beach, beside the gray whale statue in Tyrrell Park.
Santa Cruz Mystery Spot
465 Mystery Spot Rd, 831.423.8897, mysteryspot.com You’ve seen the bumper stickers and billboards, but nothing quite prepares you for a place where up is down and down is up. Built into a forest hillside, the Mystery Spot will amaze and impress even the most cynical kids. Balls roll upwards, the walls are made for climbing and people mysteriously grow taller and shrink. The tour guides have a wealth of funny lines and the price is reasonable. Make reservations: tours often sell out by noon.
Santa Cruz Surfing Museum
Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse, 701 West Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 831.420.6289
The museum is perched above one of the world’s premier surf spots, Steamer Lane, where you can watch some of the best in surfing.
Seymour Marine Discovery Center at Long Marine Lab
100 Shaffer Rd, Santa Cruz, 831.459.3800, seymourcenter.ucsc.edu A place to see and experience marine life in the area. The center’s exhibit hall includes an inveterate pool and a shark »
«pool that allows visitors to get a look at Monterey Bay species close up, and behind-the-scenes areas offer a peek into marine research.
EDUCATIONAL
1440 Multiversity
800 Bethany Drive, Scotts Valley, 844.544.1440, 1440.org A day contains 1,440 minutes, and 1440 Multiversity seeks to inspire you in each of them while you experience time differently on their beautiful campus set in the redwoods. Attend classes and connect with yourself or others.
Five Branches University, Santa Cruz
200 7th Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.464.0322, fivebranches.edu A Traditional Chinese Medicine teaching facility as well as a provider of quality healthcare including acupuncture, herbal prescriptions, therapeutic massage, medical qigong, and dietary consultation.
AVIATION
Specialized Aviation
150 Aviation Way, Watsonville, 831.763.2244, specializedheli.com Helicopter tours and aerobatic airplane rides, plus training.
BEACHES
Natural Bridges State Park
2531 West Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 831.423.4609, parks.ca.gov/naturalbridges Natural Bridges is a Santa Cruz treasure. With fascinating tide pools and the monarch butterflies hanging from the eucalyptus trees in the fall, the locale never ceases to inspire generations of beachgoers. Bask in the beauty here.
Capitola Beach
The Esplanade, Capitola Village It typically gets voted best beach in California. And with its close proximity to the Capitola Wharf, plus a slew of great restaurants and bars around, it’s pretty much one big slice of paradise. To avoid the crowds, the beach on the other side of the wharf is usually less crowded. With free shuttle service to your car, you can’t beat it.
Castle Beach
East Cliff Drive at Seabright Avenue The castle may have fallen over, but that hasn’t affected Castle Beach’s great sandy stretch. Located between the Boardwalk and the harbor, it’s a great place to let the saltwater air flow through your hair and the ocean lap over your feet.
Moran Lake
East Cliff Drive, Live Oak
It’s one of the nicest beaches in the county, with great views and easy access. A secluded treasure.
Manresa State Beach and Sunset State Beach
La Selva Beach and Watsonville, 831.761.1795, 831.763.7062
Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins that regularly surf the waves, and the priceless sand dollars that wash up on shore.
New Brighton State Beach
1500 Park Ave, Capitola, 831.464.6329
A great campground nestled in coastal cypress and pines makes this a beach-camper’s paradise. The campground is always full in the summer, so making reservations is a must. A good spot for long summer walks, especially during low tide.
North Coast Beaches
Just a few miles north of the Santa Cruz city limits are some of the most beautiful miles of coastline in the world. Most beaches can be accessed by dirt trails or small roads.
Panther Beach
Highway 1, about 1 mile south of Davenport Known for its beautiful rock formations and shiny, clean sand, Panther Beach is a memorable adventure. A takeyour-breath-away beach.
Pleasure Point Beach
East Cliff Drive and Pleasure Point Drive, Santa Cruz
A little to the left of the late Jack O’Neill’s green cliff house is a nice protected beach that makes for a sunny spot after the morning fog has burned off. Perfect pleasure.
Rio Del Mar Beach
Rio Del Mar Boulevard, Aptos The surf is milder than Manresa, but that doesn’t preclude the nasty riptides that have towed numerous unsuspecting swimmers into the deep. Great place to tan.
Santa Cruz Main Beach
Beach Street, Santa Cruz
Boasting volleyball nets, hundreds (sometimes thousands) of sunbathers and lolling surf, Main Beach, directly in front of the Boardwalk, is pretty much how it used to be 80 years ago.
Seacliff State Beach
State Park Drive, Aptos, 831.685.6500 Surf perch and halibut have been caught off the side of the area’s wellknown cement ship, but this destination stands out for its striking views.
Twin Lakes State Beach
East Cliff Drive at 7th Avenue, Santa Cruz, 831.427.4868
This beach caters to families, kite flyers, picnickers and the like, and it is said to be one of the warmest beaches in the county. It’s also a great place at night around a bonfire.
Waddell State Beach
Highway 1, about 5 miles north of Davenport, 831.427.2288 Rich beachcombing and tidepooling beach, though it tends to get too windy for lying in the sun. Every sort of sport except skiing seems to be practiced here, including hang gliding, windsurfing and kitesurfing.
BIKE PARK/ RENTALS
BICYCLE TRIP
Choose from cruisers, comfort, mountain, road and kids' bikes, with helmet, handlebar bag and lock. Delivery and pickup within 12 miles.
Current E-Bikes
131 Front St, Suite D, Santa Cruz, 831.621.2309, currentebikes.com At this full-service bike store, you can rent an e-bike before buying. Once you make the purchase, you’ll enjoy free tune-ups for the life of your eBike.
Cycle Works
1420 Mission St, Santa Cruz, 831.316.7671, cycleworks.bike Your new friends at Cycle Works have everything you need for your biking adventure. Whether you’re cruising along West Cliff or up for some mountain biking thrills, Cycle Works can help it happen with fairly priced rentals or a wide selection of bikes for purchase.
Depot Park Bike Park
119 Center St, Santa Cruz, 831.420.5270
BMX riders unite. The park boasts a bowed 8-foot-high wall ride and jumps, plus street obstacles and zero inline skaters.
Shuttle Smith Adventures
8035 Soquel Drive, Aptos, 831.234.3383
Mountain bikers can catch a shuttle to the top of Nisene Marks State Park to bike around the Soquel Demonstration State Forest trails. If your exercise plan involves lifting a beer to your mouth, take advantage of their party bus services for safe transit between destinations of your choice.
BOATING
Capitola Boat and Bait
1400-A Capitola Wharf Rd, 831.462.2208
Be the captain of your boat when you rent a 16-foot skiff and eighthorsepower motor.
Chardonnay Sailing Charters
790 Mariner Park Way, Dock FF, Santa Cruz, 423.1213, chardonnay.com
«Multiple sails a day on the iconic, locally designed Santa Cruz 70, with specialty charters including winemaker, brewmaster, pizza and more.
Lighthall Yacht Charters
790 Mariner Park Way, Santa Cruz, 831.429.1970, lighthallcharters.com Up to six passengers can enjoy a voyage on one of the luxurious 34-47foot yachts for an affordable price. Yachts may be booked for private charters, lessons, events, or spreading the remains of a loved one at sea.
Monterey Bay Eco Tours
10932 Clam Way, Moss Landing, 831.200.3454 montereybayecotours.com Take a 90-minute cruise on a custom electric catamaran through the Elkhorn Slough. There’s restroom on board and children of all ages are welcome.
O’Neill Yacht Charters
L Dock at the Santa Cruz Harbor, 275 Lake Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.475.1561, oneillyachtcharters.com Offering sailing lessons, rentals and charters on their giant catamaran, O’Neill is tops when it comes to experiencing the bay firsthand.
Pacific Yachting Sailing School & Charter Boating
790 Mariner Park Way, Santa Cruz, 831.423.7245, pacificsail.com Pacific Yachting incorporates team building and more on its excursions, with 18 sailboats from 22-43 feet.
Santa Cruz Boat Rentals
15 Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, 831.423.1739
Some of the best variety is found here, with 24 wooden skiffs, 17 feet long with six-horsepower motors.
Stagnaro Fishing Trips
32 Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, 831.427.2334, stagnaros.com One of the original local Italian fishing families, Stagnaro offers fishing trips, whale watching and cruises.
GOLF
Boulder Creek Golf and Country Club
16901 Big Basin Highway, Boulder Creek, 831.338.2111, bouldercreekgolf.com The clubhouse is open.
Seascape Golf Course
610 Clubhouse Drive, Aptos, 831.688.3214, seascapegc.com You can have both 18- and 9-hole courses on more than 6,000 yards, situated between cypress trees. SGC also has an on-site Nike Golf learning center.
DeLaveaga Golf Course
401 Upper Park Rd, Santa Cruz, 831.423.7214, delaveagagolf.com This gorgeous course surrounded by trees offers an 18- or 9-hole course and driving range plus cart rentals. The driving range has 40 stalls, so you are almost guaranteed a spot.
Pasatiempo Golf Course
20 Clubhouse Rd, Santa Cruz, 831.459.9155, pasatiempo.com A semi-private golf club which makes certain tee times available to the public. It offers a driving range, golf carts, golf instruction and club rentals. The course has a mandatory dress code, so be sure to dress appropriately.
KAYAKING
Adventure Sports Unlimited
303 Potrero St, Unit 15, Santa Cruz, 458.3648, asudoit.com Certified dive instructors teach scuba and lead dive trips. Kayak rental and instruction.
Aqua Safaris SCUBA Center
6896 Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.479.4386, aquasafaris.com Classes from beginner to instructor level, plus rentals and retail gear.
Kayak Connection
831.479.1121; 2370 Hwy. 1, Moss Landing, kayakconnection.com A one-stop-shop for all things paddle related, Kayak Connection offers sea kayaking, stand-up paddling rentals, tours, and instruction in Santa Cruz and Moss Landing.
Venture Quest Kayaking
2 Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, 831.425.8445, kayaksantacruz.com Bring your kayak or rent one here and explore the bay. Tours available.
RACING
Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca
1021 Salinas Hwy, Monterey, 831.242.8201
This world-renowned raceway hosts exciting auto and motorcycle competitions.
ROCK CLIMBING
Castle Rock State Park
In the Santa Cruz Mountains, along Skyline Boulevard. A premier bouldering destination.
Pacific Edge Rock Climbing Gym
104 Bronson St, #12, Santa Cruz, 831.454.9254, pacificedgeclimbinggym.com An impressive variety of indoor climbing. Bouldering, face climbs from 5.2 to 5.13, a roof, weight room, even a crack climb.
SCUBA
Aqua Safaris
6896 Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.479.4386, aquasafaris.com Explore the world’s oceans with Aqua Safaris.
Adventure Sports
303 Potrero St, Unit 15, 831.458.3648, asudoit.com
Divers of all skill levels can explore Monterey Bay’s reefs with complete training beforehand.
SKATEPARKS/ SHOPS
Berdels
1233 Pacific Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.332.7422, berdels.com Berdels offers everything the skating heart could desire from men’s apparel to all skate needs—get your pizza-printed skate socks here.
Cali Style
222 Mt. Hermon Rd, Scotts Valley, 831.440.1088
Local shop specializing in skate and surf brands in Scotts Valley
Derby Skatepark
508 Woodland Way, Santa Cruz Built in 1967, Derby has a long concrete skate run that ends in a big bowl.
Bill’s Wheels Skateshop
1240 Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz. 831.469.0904, billswheels.com Since 1977, this shop has featured a wide variety of boards and accessories.
Ken Wormhoudt Skate Park
225 San Lorenzo Blvd, Santa Cruz
This huge park boasts a full pipe, two bowls with pool coping and tile, a practice bowl and street course with steps, hubba ledges, wall ridges, metal rails, and great artwork.
Scotts Valley Skate Park
361 Kings Village Drive, Scotts Valley, 831.426.8424
Here you’ll find lines, rails, and large and small bowls for all skill levels to enjoy.
Santa Cruz Boardroom
825 41st Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.464.2500, santacruzboardroom.com » Great quality boards and gear, plus tons of community involvement.
SKYDIVING
Skydive Surf City
160 Aviation Way, Watsonville, 831.435.5169
Expertly trained jumpers give you an insane adrenaline rush.
Skydive Monterey Bay
721 Neeson Rd, Marina, 831.384.3483, skydivemontereybay.com Jump out of a perfectly good airplane in the world’s highest tandem skydive for once-in-a-lifetime views of the Monterey Bay and beyond.
STAND-UP PADDLE BOARDING
Cal Sup Outlet
719 Swift St, Suite 16, Santa Cruz, 831.332.8503, calsupoutlet.business.site Paddle board, sup and surfboard outlet providing fins and a warranty on all boards as a testament to their quality.
Covewater Paddle Surf
726 Water St, Santa Cruz, 831.600.7230, covewater.com Covewater is Northern California’s only dedicated stand-up paddle board (SUP) shop, providing stand-up paddle boards, equipment, rentals, and classes.
Stand-Up Paddle Board Co.
Santa Cruz Harbor, 831.818.7225
Unique services offered. Located in the harbor.
SUP Shack Santa Cruz
2214 East Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 831.464.7467, supshacksantacruz.com Beginners and pros alike enjoy the year-round rentals and classes offered through this stand-up paddle boarding company, located in the Santa Cruz harbor.
SURF SPOTS SOUTH COUNTY
Capitola Jetty
When the swell is up, this spot is the place to be. A nice left careens in front of the jetty, and a turn to the right can go on forever, assuming your skag doesn’t hit the kelpinfested water.
The Hook
Named for the copious amounts of kelp in the lineup that “hooks” around skags and booties, this nice little point break has a loyal following.
Manresa/La Selva
Manresa is a mélange of peaks, valleys and sandbars, but often the place is epic, breaking left and right and all over. Expect a long, grueling paddle during the wintertime to the outside.
Pleasure Point
Like its moniker, this place is pleasure for just about everyone. As a result, it’s generally crowded with everyone from groms to experts, longboarders to ultra-thin glassed rippers.
SURF SPOTS SANTA CRUZ
Cowell
The bunny slope of surfing gets its fair share of beginners, but it also has nice, sloping waves that go on forever. Easy access and easy attitudes make Cowell stand out.
Steamer Lane
One of the best classic breaks in the world, Steamer Lane more than lives up to its reputation. With four reef breaks rolled into one spot—The Point, Middle Peak, The Slot, and Indicators—the Lane has it all.
Natural Bridges
The best tube rides available if the conditions are just right. It’s a speedy right that peaks over an outer reef and peels toward the beach.
SURF SPOTS NORTH COUNTY
Three Mile
A great reef break that is usually uncrowded (until now), especially during the weekdays. Three Mile, as with most North Coast spots south of Davenport, includes a long walk through brussels sprouts fields.
Scott’s Creek
From long paddles and strong currents to sharky waters and unpredictable peaks, Scott’s isn’t for the faint of heart or arms. But when it goes off, it’s heaven on water.
Waddell Creek
Similar conditions for Waddell Creek as for Scott’s, except during the summer and early fall, when Waddell is one of the world’s premier wind- and kite-surfing spots.
SURF SCHOOLS /RENTALS
Adventure Out
800.509.3954, adventureout.com Offers many surf clinics, plus mountain biking, backpacking and rock-climbing.
Club Ed Surf School and Rentals, Inc.
831.464.0177, club-ed.com Great for locals and visitors. Located at Cowell Beach between the Wharf and the Dream Inn.
Cowell’s Surf Shop
30 Front St, Santa Cruz, 831.427.2355
Surf lessons, rentals and close to the best beginner break in the area.
Freeline Surf Shop
821 41st Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.476.2950, freelinesurf.com Surfboard rentals and more— everything from foam or soft-top boards, and fins, flippers, wetsuits and even stand-up paddle boards.
O’Neill Surf Shop
400 Beach St, Santa Cruz, 831.459.9230; 110 Cooper St. # D, Santa Cruz, 831.469.4377; 1115 41st Ave, Capitola, 831.475.4151, oneill.com You can nab surfboards, rent wetsuits and find brand-new gear.
Richard Schmidt Surf School
236 San Jose Ave, Santa Cruz, 831.423.0928, richardschmidt.com Richard Schmidt won Best Surf School in our readers’ poll. Note the individual and group surf lessons, plus summer camps.
Surf School Santa Cruz
3548 Portola Drive, Santa Cruz; 345 Swift St, Santa Cruz, 831.428.3647, surfschoolsantacruz.com Bud Freitas grew up surfing all over Santa Cruz County and has more than 20 years of water experience to channel into his surfing lessons. Board and wetsuit are provided.
SURF REPAIRS
BE Sanding Ding Repair
1336 Brommer St, Ste. A2, Santa Cruz, 831.325.5487, besanding.com This local expert ding repair company services surfboards, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards.
ZIPLINING
Mount Hermon Adventures
17 Conference Drive, Mount Hermon, 831.430.4357, mounthermonadventures.com A typical tour is a two-hour foray into the forest, which includes six ziplines and two sky bridges that sit 150 feet in the air.