Issuu

No 366

Destination Next D EC E M B E R 2 0 2 3

qantas.com/travelinsider

Burano, Venice

CHANEL.COM

Power. Move. RARE OPPORTUNITIES AVAILABLE NOW ON TAYCAN. MAKE THE CALL.

“ O N C E I D R E A M E D TO B E CO M E T H E FA S T E S T D R I V E R . TO DAY, I A M A D R I V E R O F C H A N G E .” L E W I S H A M I LT O N , 7 T I M E F O R M U L A 1 T M WO R L D C H A M P I O N

IW3894 THE REFERENCE. PILOT’ S WATCH CH RONOG R APH 41 TOP G U N OCE ANA When it comes to chronographs, we have been setting ourselves the highest standards for more than four decades. The new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Oceana combines the IWC-manufactured 69380 calibre with a hard and scratch-resistant case made of eye-catching marine blue ceramic, exemplifying IWC’s extensive expertise in advanced performance materials. I WC B O U T I Q U E · S Y D N E Y · M E L B O U R N E

DESTINATION NEXT

Contents December 2023

The Journey Start planning your new year’s travel with our list of 24 destinations that should be on your radar in 2024.

MANITOBA, CANADA

DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA

SRI LANKA

BALLARAT, VICTORIA

UTAH, UNITED STATES

CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA

NORWAY

LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

HORIZONTAL FALLS, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

SHANGHAI, CHINA

TIMOR-LESTE

TASMANIA

100

JAPAN

102

LISMORE, NSW

104

MAZZORBO ISLAND, VENICE

110

AFRICA

112

ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

116

DISNEYLAND, UNITED STATES

118

TURKISH ISLANDS

120

CORK, IRELAND

122

SCENIC RIM, QUEENSLAND

124

LYON, FRANCE

126

BANGKOK, THAILAND

129

SOUTHERN ALPS, NEW ZEALAND

118

Contents December 2023

DESTINATION NEXT

The List

The Business

Coming In Hot: Kurumba, Sydney

164

Think Tank: Venture capital and the next Australian unicorns

Epic Stay: The Peninsula London

170

Trending Now: 5 things to know

The Interview: Kim McKay, director and CEO, Australian Museum

Piece Of Mind: Simone Amelia Jordan

174

Check In: Melbourne

The Ride: Aston Martin DB12

176

Firsts: Nick Hockley, CEO, Cricket Australia

Book It: NGV Triennial

178

Clockwise: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche

Masterclass: How to... appeal to Generation Z

180

The Big Idea: Milo

Get Smart: Reading list

On Trial: Oxygen therapy

Hot Spot: Sardinia, Italy

148

The Menu

Arts and Culture Report

Main Course: The best restaurant dishes and where to find them

133

Neighbourhoods: Barangaroo, Sydney

New Order: Where to eat, drink and be seen right now

Taste Maker: Palisa Anderson from Chat Thai, Sydney

In The Drink: Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand Wine List: Sancerre sauvignon blanc

This Is Now: The latest trends emerging from the intersection of AI, technology and art

The Look 142

Creative Process: Christopher Zanko

144

Design Notes: Smeg refrigerator

146

Foundations: Kingo Houses, HelsingØr, Denmark

148

Packing List: Fashion for travelling in style

152

Spotlight On: Festive jewels

156

How I Travel: Sarah-Jane Clarke

133

On Board 185

Entertainment

190

Games

194

Health, safety and security on board and when you land

123

Dept/Page Name

EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief

Kirsten Galliott

Content Director

Genevra Leek

Creative Director

Tony Rice

Deputy Content Director

Faith Campbell

Art Directors

Content Manager

Kate Timms Nick Clark

Content and Qantas Hotels Editor

Visual Director

Natalie Reilly

Bridget de Maine

Elizabeth Hachem Copy Director

Online Editor

Christina Rae Senior Digital Producer

Maxim Boon

Rosemary Bruce Deputy Copy Director

Sandra Bridekirk Copy Editors

Digital and Social Producer

Anneliese Beard

Pippa Duffy Nick Hadley

Content Producer

Production Manager

Anna Neville

Chrissy Fragkakis

For editorial inquiries, contact: qantaseditorial@mediumrarecontent.com

ADVERTISING Head of Sales, Travel and Luxury

Tony Trovato

Sales Manager, Victoria

Lauren Casalini

+61 424 980 800 Senior Account Manager, Victoria

+61 404 093 472 National Sales Manager, Travel

Miranda Adofaci

+61 404 729 224 Senior Account Manager, NSW

Digital Sales Director

+61 420 558 697 Senior Account Manager, NSW

Digital Campaign Manager and Product Specialist

+61 410 387 707

Callum Bean

Crystal Wong

Anthony Sullivan +61 408 447 148 Sales Manager, Qld, WA and SA

Sarah Harding

+61 403 699 867

Mike Hanna

+61 402 640 095

Anna Delgado

+61 404 855 041

International Representatives

Greater China and Japan Peter Jeffery +852 2850 4013 peterjeffery@ asianimedia.com

South-East Asia and the UK Nick Lockwood +65 9776 6255 nick.lockwood@ pharpartnerships.com

United States

Ralph Lockwood +1 408 879 6666 ralph.lockwood@ husonmedia.com

Implementation Executive, Travel and Luxury

Ammara Mumtaz +61 480 223 837

For advertising inquiries, contact: qantasadvertising@mediumrarecontent.com

RARE CREATIVE Strategy and Partnerships Head of Rare Creative Paulette Parisi Content and Partnerships Director Mark Brandon Senior Content Editor Natalie Babic Partnerships Editor Daniela Bertollo Senior Writer Terry Christodoulou Creative Director Philippa Moffitt Art Director Georgia Dixon Designer Jenny Lee Strategy and Insights Director Jane Schofield Senior Strategy Manager Natalie Pizanis Commercial Insights Manager Taylah Harb Qantas Senior Partnerships Manager Alana Baird Qantas Loyalty Partnerships Manager Molly Maguire Qantas Partnerships Campaign Executive Kellie Hammond Content and Events Campaign Manager Jessica Manson

For Rare Creative inquiries, contact: rarecreative@mediumrarecontent.com

Managing Director Nick Smith Chief Commercial Officer Fiorella Di Santo Head of Content, Travel and Business Kirsten Galliott Head of Design, Travel and Business Tony Rice Head of Digital Production and Operations Hana Jo Head of Audience Intelligence Catherine Ross Financial Controller Leslie To Finance Manager Yane Chak Junior Accountant Yongjia Zhou

Qantas magazine is published for Qantas Airways Ltd (ABN 16 009 661 901) by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Level 1, 83 Bowman Street, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2023. All rights reserved. Printed by IVE Group. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Qantas Airways Ltd or Medium Rare Content Agency. ISSN 1443-2013. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, please visit mediumrarecontent.com.

M C A

Dept/Page Name

From the Editor

Tacita Dean 18

8 Dec 2023 – 3 Mar 2024 Museum of Contemporary Art Australia Tickets mca.com.au Free for MCA Members Exclusive to Sydney

I haven’t made any travel plans for 2024. I’m not feeling anxious about it (much... ) but I know from experience that when there are a few highlights in the calendar, life just feels a little brighter. So I’m using this column as a planning tool – a written mood board, if you like. If I could go anywhere in the next year, where would it be? 1. The bucket-list trip: Seeing gorillas in the wild. I’m a sucker for any holiday that features an incredible animal encounter. I’ll take Rwanda or Uganda (but if a stay at One&Only Gorilla’s Nest is available, sign me up now). 2. The local adventure: I’ve now been living in Tasmania for three years but I haven’t made my way across the island to the west coast for more than 10 years. So this is the year to experience the pristine Gordon River, gaze at ancient Huon pines and soak up the state’s most remote wilderness. 3. The city fix: The Olympics in Paris? Oui! The new direct flight from Perth is another incentive. I’d stay at a boutique hotel near Jardin du Luxembourg, such as La Belle Juliette, to counter the big-sport vibes. Then I’d jump on the fast train to Le Perche, in the Normandy countryside, to stay at D’une Île, a retreat from the stars behind the fabulous Parisian restaurant, Septime. Heaven. 4. The weekend getaway: Oh, give me a bit of Palm Cove, please. So easy to get to (a short drive from Cairns) and every stress knot untangles in an instant. Outdoor dining, palm trees everywhere and balmy with a capital B. One of my favourite spots. 5. The family holiday: Laos and Cambodia with a side of Vietnam (or the other way around). I’m already thinking about the street food, the architecture and the beautiful people we will meet. So that’s a start, right? Where are you heading?

Kirsten Galliott Editor-in-Chief kirstengalliott

Strategic Sponsor

Government Partners

Our writers are not armchair travellers. Rest assured any assistance we accept from the travel industry in the course of preparing our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage. Tacita Dean, Paradise (film still, detail), 2021, with music, Paradiso by Thomas Adès, 35mm colour anamorphic film, optical sound, image courtesy the artist, Frith Street Gallery, London and Marian Goodman Gallery, New York, Paris and Los Angeles, © the artist

Qantas News

Meet the team

Connect to Qantas Fast and Free Wi-Fi Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps: Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings.

Christopher Marchioro

CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER, QANTAS INTERNATIONAL

Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect. Once you’re connected, you’re ready to access the internet and start exploring.

At school I was known as “the future flight attendant” because I was so sure that’s what I wanted to do. As a kid I’d be given cars as gifts and I’d fly them around the room so my parents worked out pretty quickly that aviation was a real passion of mine. I’ve always wanted to work with Qantas.

Having trouble connecting? Make sure you’re connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start the connection process. To ensure an enjoyable flight for everyone, keep flight mode activated, switch your device to silent and refrain from voice and video calls.

My career with the company started in 2014. I was working as a cabin crew member for QantasLink and studying a Bachelor of Mass Communication at university at the same time. In 2016 I was given the opportunity to join the international team as a Business and First Class attendant then as a customer service supervisor. Recently I’ve become a customer service manager. My duties start the night before a flight. I’ll check customer numbers, who’s on board, email the captain and check on crewing. In the morning, I’ll get up early, check for any changes, reach out to the onboard supervisor and talk about how we’ll run the flight. At the airport I’ll conduct a crew briefing. When we’re all onboard, we’re busy with technical and safety checks. Then it’s time to welcome our customers – that’s when the fun starts! The customers are my favourite part of the job. Airports can be stressful and maybe they’ll be tired when they get on the flight but we can make it a good experience. It’s so rewarding when I tell the crew all the lovely comments our customers have made about them. It’s been an amazing career – I’m nine years in and hope I can fly for another 90.

New direct route to Europe

Fancy spending summer in Paris (above)? From 12 July next year you can fly direct from Perth to the City of Light just in time for the 2024 Olympics. At 17 hours, the new non-stop route on Qantas’ Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft will shave around three hours off the current fastest travel time. The flights, available now, will initially operate four days a week during the peak European season. Book at qantas.com.

We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the land on which we work, live and fly. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and are committed to honouring Australian Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples’ unique cultural and spiritual relationship to the land, water and sky.

qantas.com

Qantas Reservations 13 13 13

Qantas Holidays Ltd 13 14 15 (ABN 24 003 836 459; Licence No. 2TA003004)

Qantas Club and Frequent Flyer Service Centre 13 11 31 From overseas +61 3 9658 5302

Building trust and delivering excellence is what drives us. “Achieving excellence requires dedication. I’m proud of the hard work I’ve put in over the years and the relationships I’ve built. Which is why it’s an honour to partner with a company that continually strives for excellence. LSH Auto Australia is dedicated to building trust. It’s the place for all your premium motoring needs, where the goal is to deliver an exceptional customer experience.” Scan here to find out more or visit us at www.lshauto.com.au

Stephanie Rice OAM Olympic Champion and LSH Auto Australia Ambassador

Australia’s leading Mercedes-Benz retail group Mercedes-Benz Sydney | Mercedes-Benz Melbourne | Mercedes-Benz Brisbane | AMG Sydney | Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Airport

YOU COME FIRST. ALWAYS.

Dept/Page Name

Travel Hack

Before you go 1 Organise your maps. Going off the beaten track while exploring a new city might be desirable but to avoid getting completely lost, use an app like CityMaps2Go. It works online and off, in case you don’t have a signal.

2 Stay connected. Before you switch on international roaming, consider buying a local SIM card from the airport on arrival at your destination or pre-purchase an international SIM. For security, install a VPN app on your phone and computer.

3 Streamline your finances. Consider packing a prepaid debit card rather than hauling around lots of cash. And download the Global Tipping app. Scan the QR code below to find the rest of our checklist of pre-travel tips.

ZERORISK SECURITY APP Your ultimate companion for Global Adventures 24/7 Security updates / alerts Travel specific training videos Emergency help / check-in button

Travel Insider takes you places with expert guides, destination dining and inspirational ideas for your next adventure.

Live tracking options Travel first aid kit

Scan the QR code (right) or go to qantas.com/travelinsider. Follow us on Instagram @qftravelinsider

Peter Donnelly

Vetted hospitals / embassies

Travel Inspiration

I just got back from... India Rickshaw trips through bustling markets, hotels that resemble castles and epic sunrises and sunsets. Qantas travellers share highlights from their recent trips.

Stephanie Hewish Platinum Frequent Flyer FLEW QANTAS FROM MELBOURNE TO DELHI “My husband and I travelled to Delhi for a friend’s wedding. I picked up a sari by Bollywood designer Manish Malhotra at Qutab Garden – it was beautiful. We hired a driver to visit Jaipur, Agra and the Taj Mahal and we stayed at The Oberoi Amarvilas Agra, which was more castle than hotel. Early in the morning, we were picked up in a buggy with breakfast and coffee and arrived at the Taj Mahal before the crowds. It was every bit as incredible as you’d imagine it to be.”

James Radford Gold Frequent Flyer FLEW QANTAS FROM MELBOURNE TO DELHI “I flew Qantas Business on points to Delhi and economy on the way back. Both flights were faultless: the cabin was new, the crew were lovely and the food was excellent. I stayed at Le Méridien and each morning I’d go for a run to the India Gate, a war memorial that looks like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. A highlight was Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest markets in Delhi. Jump in an autorickshaw to explore before going to lunch at Jamavar restaurant at The Leela Palace New Delhi. Order the butter chicken – it was great.”

Ennea Miller-Hunt Silver Frequent Flyer

Ennea (second from right) and friends

FLEW QANTAS FROM SYDNEY TO BANGALORE THEN INDIGO TO MUMBAI “Mumbai was the starting point for our holiday before my friends and I headed south to Goa, which is where we ate the best food. My favourite restaurants were Viva in Old Goa and Hidden Heart, a gorgeous traditional restaurant in Aldona. We had four days kayaking and hiking in Olaulim, waking at dawn. The Indian sun is like a bright red ball, unlike anywhere else in the world, so you must catch every sunrise and sunset that you can. I’d go back in a heartbeat.”

Explore more of India with Qantas. Fly Melbourne to Delhi or Sydney to Bangalore and connect to 11 popular destinations using our partner IndiGo. Book now on qantas.com

Where the little things mean a lot. Stay at the best of the best. Sydney’s #1 hotel on Trip Advisor. Little National Hotel rises above Wynyard Walk, moments from everything that defines the city. With a private rooftop lounge and bar, workspace, super-king plush beds, wellness centre by Technogym and more. For business or leisure, Little National has it all in a heartbeat. From $269* *Per room. Subject to availability

26 Clarence Street Sydney 2000 NSW +61 2 9135 0222 littlenationalhotel.com.au

Bondi Icebergs Pool

Azuma Makoto, courtesy of the artist

Block Flowers (2020) by Azuma Makoto will be exhibited at NGV Triennial 2023

THE LIST

PIONEERS OF LUXURY AFRICAN SAFARIS Africa was where it all began for A&K, pioneering the world’s very ﬁrst luxury safari in 1962. Sixty years on, we are the world experts in tailor-made experiential travel — journeys that inspire real human connection and life-long stories. Be mesmerised by elephants wading their young through the ﬂoodplains of Botswana, seek encounters with all of Africa’s iconic species in South Africa, including lion, elephant and leopard, be awestruck by the majesty of Victoria Falls, or come face to face with gorillas in the forested havens of Uganda. With privileged access, unrivalled expertise, luxury accommodations, and a long-standing presence on the ground, A&K sets the benchmark for unforgettable, life-changing safaris. No matter your dream, A&K can curate the perfect tailor-made African adventure just for you.

African Waterways

South Africa & Zambia Discovery

Kenya & Uganda Explorer

Uncover two of Africa’s most acclaimed wilderness areas – the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park on this inspiring tailormade journey. Staggering wildlife encounters, diverse landscapes, outstanding safari guides and Sanctuary Retreats luxurious lodges & camps deliver an unforgettable safari experience. 9 days from $15,935 pp

Immerse you in the wonders of alluring South Africa and Zambia. You’ll Travel in true A&K style as you discover the best of South Africa’s Cape Winelands, Cape Town and the iconic wildlife of Sabi Sand Game Reserve combined with Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park and the thundering Victoria Falls. 15 days from $24,630 pp

Explore the vast savannas of Kenya scattered with immense herds of wildlife and Maasai tribespeople who bring soul and colour to the land before journeying into Uganda to track the elusive mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, one of the continent’s most magical experiences. 11 days from $18,985 pp

Call 1300 589 717, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or contact your travel advisor to ﬁnd out more.

*Terms & Conditions apply. Prices shown are per person based on twin share and are subject to availability.

Coming In Hot

Kurumba, Sydney

Sri Lanka meets Surry Hills at this fragrant new restaurant that thrills every sense. Story by Alexandra Carlton

Hoppers. Fun to say and even more fun to eat, they’re one of the cornerstones of Sri Lankan cuisine. For those unfamiliar, a hopper is a thin, round pancake made of fermented rice flour and coconut milk – sometimes with an egg in the middle – that you tear and fold and fill with curries and sambols. They’re also the first thing you see when you enter family-run newcomer Kurumba (kurumbasyd.com.au) as they’re swirled around a pan behind the bar at a dedicated hopper station. “When we’re in Sri Lanka we always eat hoppers on the street,” says general manager Travin De Hoedt (third from left). “Watching them being made is something we always thought was really cool. We’ve never seen that done in Sydney so we wanted to bring it to people.”

Beyond hoppers, there are many more layers of savoury spice and all things nice to be found at the Surry Hills eatery. The lobster kottu is a signature; a textured topography of vegetables, shellfish and shredded roti slicked with a rich lobster head curry sauce and served in the shell. Chunky green mango curry is garnished with a halo of deep-fried bitter gourd – it was De Hoedt’s favourite of the dishes his grandmother made. And the cocktails transport you to the tropics, too, especially the juicy Rumba Kurumba that sings with Ceylon arrack and apricot. Don’t neglect to order dessert. Almost everyone in the De Hoedt family has a pastry background and the cakes they served at The Fold, their previous restaurant in Dulwich Hill, were the stuff of legend. Candyfloss pink faluda soft serve looks as though it will taste like a toothache but is in fact a subtle, gently floral, musk dream, dotted with crystallised pistachio, burnt cashew and a macerated cherry. At the time of writing, Kurumba’s more formal upstairs dining area was still being prepped for customers but even when it opens, the downstairs hopper bar will be where it’s at. A cocktail or two, some handheld snacks and a little theatrical cooking in front of your eyes. That’s our idea of dinner and a show.

Epic Stay

The Peninsula London

The illustrious hotel brand makes its glittering debut in the English capital. Story by Kendall Hill

It’s the light you notice first. Slipping into The Peninsula London’s commanding, tripleheight lobby from the mayhem of Hyde Park Corner is like finding a calm and luminous sanctuary in the heart of the metropolis (qantas.com/hotels/peninsulalondon). The space channels the glamour of the group’s iconic original at The Peninsula Hong Kong, yet is distinctly London in both the handpainted de Gournay wallpapers depicting Hyde Park scenes and the afternoon tea service of coronation chicken sandwiches and scones with clotted Dorset cream.

Buckingham Palace is next door and the royal parks and ritzy boutiques of Knightsbridge are nearby. Stay in an eastfacing room where tripled-glazed bay windows survey Hyde Park and the palace gardens, the city unspooling like a silent film on the bustling streets below. All 190 rooms (with a minimum of 51 square metres) feature honey onyx bathrooms, custom Frette linens and commissioned landscapes by artists from the Royal Drawing School. The Peninsula London has been 35 years in the planning by parent company The Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels and it shows. Nowhere more so than in the spectacular dining venues, Brooklands and Canton Blue. The former is a paean to chairman Sir Michael Kadoorie’s passion for motorsports and aviation, its walls clad in fuselage aluminium and the ceiling hung

with a scale model of an aeroplane. Every detail is exact. Chef director Claude Bosi’s (ex Hibiscus and Bibendum) mod-Brit menu at the rooftop eatery runs to Exmoor caviar and Racan guinea fowl with Scottish razor clams. Both the restaurant and bar (and the 200-cigar humidor and tasting lounge) share a broad, sprawling terrace with lordly views from St Paul’s to Battersea. Canton Blue is the haute Cantonese restaurant and tea-room of colourful porcelains and antique instruments where executive chef Dicky To (formerly at The Peninsula Tokyo and Paris) prepares classic dim sum and the signature Peking duck. “We’re a heritage brand… synonymous with luxury service,” says Sonja Vodusek, the hotel’s Australian-born MD. “We want to honour our Asian heritage but we also really want to embrace all things British.”

Trending Now

5 things to know

Looking for gift ideas this festive season? Start here. Compiled by Natalie Reilly

Artwork For those who want something a bit more commemorative than an Instagram post of their meal, Food for Everyone founder Gemma Leslie has the answer. She’s worked with more than 30 top local chefs to create poster-sized artworks of popular dishes (top right, from $85; foodforeveryone.com.au). So whether you’re into lobster à l’Armoricaine from Sydney’s Restaurant Hubert or wontons and noodles in ginger-turmeric broth from Hetty McKinnon’s cookbook To Asia, With Love, there’s an artwork to match. And for each poster sold, Food for Everyone donates the equivalent of 10 meals to Second Bite, a national not-for-profit that rescues food and distributes it free to more than 1400 charities.

Beauty The perfect gift for the perfumelover is here: The Alchemist’s Garden Discovery Set by Gucci. The two distinct sets each come with three newly released scents in mini form – just the thing for your carry-on. Set one includes A Song for the Rose, the oudand patchouli-spiced The Voice of the Snake and Fading Autumn floral water. Set two has 1921, with neroli and limone cedrato from Florence, the frangipani-scented A Chant for the Nymph and The Voice of the Snake. Available at David Jones (davidjones.com) and gucci.com for $307 each.

Book Coffee table tome House Cat contains 50 pictures of cats in the beautiful homes they share

with their architect and interior designer humans. Aussie-born, New York-based photographer Paul Barbera captures Matsu, an Egyptian mau, looking aloof on a staircase, and Kelly Girl, a Siamese, on a lounge, also looking aloof. Think of it as the analog version of cat videos – with way more poise. Available now from Thames & Hudson.

Fashion Coveted Australian fashion label Alémais is branching out with the release of the KitchenAid x Alémais stand mixer and tablecloth set (top, $1299; kitchenaid.com.au). The collaboration is a world-first for the appliance brand and the pieces are inspired by the beachy childhood summers of

Alémais co-founder and creative director Lesleigh Jermanus. Whimsical and bright, the pair are bound to inspire creativity in the kitchen.

Gadget New Zealand company Blunt has released a limited-edition umbrella, the Tempus, that feels less like protection from the rain and more like armour from another planet. Made using carbon fibre and brushed aluminium, the full-length brolly is backed by an enduring lifetime warranty (so you can bet it won’t flip inside out in a storm). There are only 1000 of the umbrellas in existence so consider it a lifetime investment. $449 at bluntumbrella.com.au and selected retailers.

Victoria Zschommler

Celebrating 12 years of f inding long-lasting happiness for our clients. Elite introduction agency for gay gentlemen has expanded globally. Having helped more than 1000 couples in their quest for true love, Beau Brummell introductions has worldwide reach, personally matching men at all stages of life who share a desire for genuine relationships and the chance to build a family. Time-poor professionals, it’s time to outsource your love life to a caring team who’ll uncover that one exceptional individual who could change your journey forever.

Committed to being committed BEAUBRUMMELLINTRODUCTIONS.COM

Bea a u Brum B rum rummel melll I ntr mel ntt rodu oducti odu ct ons cti on ffo und unders er V ers Vi nko An n ttho ho ny and An Andre dre rea a Zaza Z aza aza,, p hot hoto o b y Seal S eal ea eyb y ran n dt. dt com om

Piece Of Mind

Simone Amelia Jordan

My favourite books are… Maya Angelou’s autobiographical series. I fell in love with them when I was 13 and devoured all seven volumes, including I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings. But my most unforgettable read is Random Family: Love, Drugs, Trouble, and Coming of Age in the Bronx by journalist Adrian Nicole LeBlanc. I champion anyone who has been counted out.

The app I use the most is… Instagram. My favourite social media personality by far is comedian Mahmoud Ismail. He’s a natural-born entertainer with his pulse on Sydney’s multicultural enclaves. He does vox pops out the front of shop openings and new gym refurbishments, and tries out restaurants.

The last movie I watched was... They Cloned Tyrone on Netflix. It’s a science-fiction must-see, full of important social messages cloaked in a modern comedy about a massive conspiracy theory. The script by Tony Rettenmaier and Juel Taylor has perfect chaotic energy and the on-screen chemistry between Jamie Foxx (Ray), Teyonah Parris (The Marvels) and John Boyega (Star Wars: The Force Awakens) is electric. The soundtrack is also brilliant.

The last podcast I listened to was… I’m a huge fan of American radio personality and former rapper Angie Martinez. She’s my career idol. Her In Real Life [IRL] series on YouTube covers unfiltered conversations about mental health and wellbeing with famous faces such as actor Taraji P. Henson and singer Kelly Clarkson.

The last TV series I binged was… Secrets & Sisterhood: The Sozahdahs. It’s a refreshing throwback to early reality TV, even though it only aired this year. It’s about 10 Muslim-American sisters living in Los Angeles with their mother, who had to leave Afghanistan for the United States. Their cultural confusion is relatable and compelling.

My favourite music is… Hip-hop. I moved with my grandmother, mum and sister from Sydney’s multicultural Inner West to the Central Coast in 1989 when I was eight years old and I felt like an outcast for years. Music from Queen Latifah, Public Enemy and DJ Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince was my lifeline. The rappers inspired me to embrace my Lebanese-Cypriot identity.

Nic Walker

The hip-hop journalist from Sydney has just written a memoir, Tell Her She’s Dreamin’. Here, she shares the pop culture that keeps her occupied. As told to Natalie Reilly

DISCOVER THE NEW COLLECTION

LINNEYS.COM.AU

The Ride

Aston Martin DB12

The British marque introduces the world’s first super-tourer – and it’s stunning. Story by Noelle Faulkner

What’s the DB12? No doubt you’ve heard of Aston Martin’s legendary DB line, thanks to the famous fictional spy who drove one. This year, the DB number ticked over to 12 to reveal the most exciting and capable grand tourer (GT) coupé ever. How is it different? GTs often lean towards comfort rather than performance. For the DB12, the team at Aston Martin found a sweet spot that’s as elegantly comfortable as it is dynamically astute. What powers it? The DB11’s V12 has been dropped in favour of a Mercedes-AMG twin-turbo 4.0-litre V8 but that doesn’t mean the DB12 has lost any grunt.

In fact, it’s made some gains to produce a meaty 500kW of power and 800Nm of torque, 0-100km/h in 3.6 seconds and a top speed of 325km/h. What else is new? A touchscreen! One of the biggest gripes for Aston Martin owners was the lack of touchscreen controls for the infotainment system, mainly due to its technology partnership with Mercedes-Benz. Now the British marque owns the technology, including a brand-new interface and components. There’s still a good combination of tech and tactility at play. It sure is good-looking. The DB12 is a moving piece of art inside and out. With so much competition in the performance GT space, the carmaker went to town when elevating even the tiniest details, from materials to spatial adjustments and that gorgeous exterior. How much? From $455,000, plus options and on-road costs. astonmartin.com

Presented by

See Titanic artefacts recovered from the freezing North Atlantic or wade into warm tropical waters in Phuket. Your next great escape is calling – and you’ll find it at Qantas Hotels and Holidays.

Save your money, use your points

Escape to a tropical paradise

Built into the hillside on the southeastern tip of Phuket, the 5-star Cape Panwa Hotel is luxury with a capital L. Spend your days relaxing on the private beach before visiting the exclusive Cape Spa. You’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to dinner – there are four restaurants, including the seaside fine-diner Panwa House for authentic Thai cuisine.

Four reasons to book an epic Melbourne summer break 1. Australian Open 2024, Melbourne Park Get ready because this year’s Australian Open is set to be huge, especially if the rumours declaring the return of Rafael Nadal, Naomi Osaka, Caroline Wozniacki and Nick Kyrgios are to be believed. 14-28 January STAY AC Hotel Melbourne Southbank

2. BBC Earth Experience, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre Travel the seven continents in one epic immersive event narrated by David Attenborough. You’ll also see incredible footage from the BBC Studios television series Seven Worlds, One Planet. STAY Hotel Indigo Melbourne on Flinders

3. Moulin Rouge! The Musical, Regent Theatre

4. Titanic: The Artefact Exhibition, Melbourne Museum

Baz Luhrmann’s beloved film comes alive onstage with performers singing more than 70 songs, including new additions such as Chandelier, Single Ladies and Firework. Until 4 February STAY The Westin Melbourne

Discover more than 200 artefacts retrieved from the Titanic, full-scale recreations of iconic parts of the ship and an iceberg the same temperature as the waters of the North Atlantic that fateful night. 16 December-14 April STAY Next Hotel Melbourne

Book your Melbourne summer stay on Qantas Hotels and earn 3 points for every $1 spent. Visit qantas.com/hotels

Did you know?

Stay five nights for two people from $899 or 80,464 Qantas Points2 When you book with Qantas Luxury Holidays, you’ll receive: Daily buffet breakfast Daily dine-around set dinner Daily cocktail Food and beverage credit

Use Points Plus Pay to book a Qantas Luxury Holiday.3 Visit qantas.com/luxuryholidays

You can explore an ancient rock fortress, tropical beaches, historic temples and more on the 2 for 1 Sri Lanka tour. Prices start from $3999 or 399,900 Qantas Points for two people.1 Visit qantas.com/tours

You must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer member to earn and redeem points. Membership and points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions. 1. Price is correct as at 24 October 2023 and is priced for two people based on a twin share room. Travel offer is valid for travel on selected dates from 15 Apr - 4 Nov 2024 unless sold out prior. Availability may be limited and blackout dates apply. 2. Offer ends 11:59pm (AEDT) 31 December 2023, unless sold out prior. Valid for stays from 1 December 2023 to 31 October 2024. A 5 night minimum stay applies. Blackout dates apply. Surcharges may apply to other dates. Flights and transfers are not included. This offer may be extended, changed or cancelled without notice. Prices correct as at 20 October 2023. See website for full T&Cs. 3. Points Plus Pay allows you to choose the number of Qantas Points you redeem above the minimum level of 5,000 and pay for the remainder of the booking value with an accepted payment method.

Book It

Speculum (2019), a digital triptych by SMACK (above); All In (2021), a bronze statue by Thomas J Price (below)

NGV Triennial

The gallery’s blockbuster exhibition returns with a new perspective. Story by Bek Day

“There’s a concept called the Overton Window,” says Ewan McEoin, senior curator of contemporary art, design and architecture for the National Gallery of Victoria’s 2023 Triennial (ngv.vic.gov.au). “It explains the shifting window of what’s in focus in public opinion at any point and the way it moves like a spotlight over time.” It’s an idea that’s core to the Triennial’s ambitions as it aims to provide a creative snapshot of the most pressing issues we face in this moment. Outside in the garden, a 14-metre-tall sphere entitled (This Is) Air changes through

the day as it “breathes” then releases air in a natural rhythm. In the Megacities project, 10 photographers from the most densely populated cities on earth – from São Paulo to Dakar – have been commissioned to document life in their hometown for a year. McEoin expects one million visitors to the Triennial, a free exhibition showcasing more than 75 projects by 100 artists, designers and collectives, 25 of which are world premieres made for the event. For little ones, the work of French illustrator Jean Jullien is woven into a playful interactive experience in which the NGV Kids gallery is transformed into Rififi: Jean Jullien for Kids, an underwater world inspired by the artist’s childhood trips to the French coast. Dressing up in fish costumes created by Jullien, children can explore an immersive space featuring large-scale drawings by the

artist. Youngsters are sure to be transfixed but McEoin points out that all the art on show can be enjoyed on a range of levels. A project by Polish-born artist Agnieszka Pilat – in which three Boston Dynamics robotic dogs will spend four months living in an apartment inside the gallery, making a new painting each day – is more layered than it looks. “For a five-year-old, it’s an amazing thing,” says McEoin, “then, at a higher complexity, it raises the question of who owns the art being created by the robot dogs. Is it even real art if it’s created by AI?” While this year’s themes – Matter, Magic and Memory – span the spectrum of emotion, McEoin says the Triennial’s main ambition is one of hope. “The punchline is that creativity gives us agency to shape the world around us. We approach things from an inherently optimistic perspective.”

Gustavo Minas

A photograph by Gustavo Minas taken in São Paulo, Brazil, for the Megacities project

Clockwise

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche

It’s a match made in heaven – an iconic watch and a legendary car that share a love of racing. Story by Luke Benedictus

Brand collaborations are a bit like marriages. Only about half of them actually work, while the rest should never have got together in the first place. But sometimes one comes along that makes you believe romance isn’t dead. TAG Heuer’s hook-up with Porsche is one such relationship. For starters, they’ve got plenty in common. Inspired by the Carrera Panamericana, a notorious Mexican car rally, Heuer launched its Carrera chronograph watch in 1963. That same year, the Porsche 911 was released, while an upgraded version, the 911 Carrera RS – inspired by that same infamous race – was introduced a decade later. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche delivers a 60th-anniversary homage to both watch and car. Straddling a calfskin strap, the sporty chronograph is housed in a 42-millimetre steel case that’s water-resistant to 100 metres, the dial’s red lacquered accents calling to mind a Porsche dashboard. A double “glassbox” covering, a nod to the domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s, provides a window through the caseback to the new in-house calibre. Some mechanical hijinks deepen the collaboration. The Porsche 911 astonished the world with its ability to accelerate to 100km/h in just 9.1 seconds. That engineering milestone is commemorated here by the chronograph’s central hand. At the touch of a button, the hand zooms forward for 9.1 seconds, before slowing to complete a full revolution in 60 seconds. It’s more fun than functional but isn’t that the point?

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche automatic chronograph watch in stainless steel / $13,350 / tagheuer.com

making places balanced

usm.com

Play around with colours, shapes and dimensions and design your own furniture with our online configurator Australia: Anibou – anibou.com.au

Sydney 726 Bourke St. Redfern NSW 2016, 02 9319 0655 Melbourne 3 Newton Street, Cremorne VIC 3121, 03 9416 3671 info@anibou.com.au

New Zealand: ECC – ecc.co.nz

Auckland 39 Nugent St.Grafton 1023, 09 379 9680 Christchurch 145 Victoria Street, Christchurch Central 8013, 03 353 0586 Wellington 61 Thorndon Quay, Pipitea 6021, 04 473 3456 info@ecc.co.nz

Get Smart

Reading list

From the latest novels to essential reads, these are our page-turning picks. Story by Michael Williams

The book everyone is reading This Irish novel might be my book of the year (in a crowded field). The Bee Sting by Paul Murray is about the cost of living crisis and the climate and it’s comic. But most of all, it’s a story about a family: their secrets, thwarted hopes and sense of doom. Funny and sad, this is a classic in the making.

The book you should be reading Nobody writes about chaotic, passionate ratbags like Melissa Lucashenko. She won the Miles Franklin Award with her last book, Too Much Lip, and its follow-up, Edenglassie, finds her in fine form with big topics – as well as mischief – in mind. Her first historical novel, it shifts between the 1850s and the present day, with some unlikely love stories, the atrocities of colonial dispossession and the weight of history as we make our way through the world. And it has an enduring character of Australian literature in Granny Eddie.

The non-fiction book to know about David Marr is one of this country’s most respected writers and journalists, and his magisterial new book, Killing For Country, is a reminder of his skill and the depth of his moral authority. When an aged uncle asks him to do research into their ancestry, the discovery

that his family tree includes members of the murderous Queensland Native Mounted Police leads Marr to an exercise in excavation and truth telling. A powerful and important work of Australian history.

The Australian book to read now Poet, historian and novelist Tony Birch writes beautiful books – on every page you can tell how much he cares about his characters. They’re lovingly depicted, with palpable fear for the challenges that life throws up at them. Joe Cluny and his mum, Marion, are no exception in Women & Children. This coming-of-age story set in the mid-1960s is both a tender account of the need to grow up fast and a celebration of extraordinary women.

The book to revisit A new Lauren Groff novel, The Vaster Wilds, is in bookshops and that’s an excellent reason to thrust her classic, Fates and Furies, into the hands of everyone you know. It’s the tale of a marriage in two parts. Both sides laid out. Grievances aired. Compromises forgiven (or not). Set across 25 years, this book will have you rethinking your sympathies as perspectives shift and the story becomes ever more complicated. Delicious.

Summer ‘24. Exhibiting 18 artists

nsmithgallery.com

N.Smith Gallery

scan to preview

On Trial

Oxygen therapy

Can oxygen bring tangible benefits apart from, you know, keeping us alive? Story by Natalie Reilly

Oxygen therapy has been orbiting the modern wellness space since O2 bars were set up in Los Angeles in the late 1990s but it dates back to the 18th century, when a doctor tried it to help a woman recover from pneumonia. Spoiler alert: it worked. These days, the treatment involves sitting in a small chamber where the air pressure is increased to two, sometimes three, times higher than normal so your lungs fill with more oxygen and, the logic goes, so does your skin, muscles and blood. It’s long

been a favourite of athletes, though its main application has been in healing wounds, as it reportedly triggers stem-cell growth. According to John Hopkins University, oxygen therapy can assist with a weakened immune system, inflammation and even collagen production. I have an autoimmune disease and who am I to say no to extra collagen? It’s raining outside when I step into the zen, ecru space at Bionik Wellness (bionik wellness.com.au) in Sydney’s Surry Hills. I’m greeted by Sasha, who leads me downstairs, past the float-tank suites and sauna huts to a dark room where there’s a pod the size of your grandpa’s TV chair, covered in fibreglass. This is the pressurised chamber. There’s a green light inside that Sasha tells me is for people who like to meditate and choose a colour that aligns with what they visualise.

I clamber into the chamber, the oxygen pumped in through a small tube near my face. The green glow is a little too like Superman’s kryptonite for me so I turn it off and sit in the dark, which is peaceful in its own way. I inhale a few times and wait for it to start. I’m still waiting when my ears pop and I realise it’s already happening. It feels as low-key as relaxing in front of the TV so I do what I do at home – sit back and play Candy Crush. Half an hour later, I’m done. I’m a little sleepy but that’s not new. It’s not until a week or so later that I’m running my finger across my forehead and realise that a small chicken pox scar is somehow smaller, as if it’s been deflated. I remember that tiny tube of oxygen was right at my forehead. Could this be the wound healing work I read about? Either way, I’m not complaining.

Hot Spot

Sardinia, Italy

47 Story by Bridget de Maine Photography by David Chatfield

Come summer, both the locals and visitors cling to Italy’s craggy coastlines like barnacles, with holiday-makers seeking relief on the Amalfi and Cinque Terre coasts. In Sardinia, the twin island to France’s Corsica that floats due west of Naples, playing beach towel chess is (mostly) a resident’s game. “This picture was taken one scorchinghot afternoon along the Costa Paradiso in Sardinia,” says photographer David Chatfield. “I was meant to be in Florence for work but a heatwave was coming into full force so I made a last-minute decision to stay at a little agriturismo called Il Muto di Gallura in the island’s northern mountains. It was mid-afternoon and the rocky bays and coves were yet to offer much shade. The few who opted to siesta by the sea were arranged on these small cliff terraces under their variegated umbrellas. As the sun reclined further into the west, the jadecoloured bay below became a post-siesta social club of locals on li-los.”

Central Fire Station Bistro, Napier, New Zealand

THE MENU

Main Course

NSW

Snowflake mushroom on wasabi leaf at Kiln

Kiln (kilnsydney.com) opened at Ace Hotel Sydney in late 2022 with bombast and bang. Yet its most enduring dish is perhaps its most low-key. A coral tooth, or snowflake, mushroom from Mother Fungus on the Mid North Coast is marinated in what chef Mitch Orr calls “the usual suspects” of soy, mirin, sake and ginger then grilled over the wood fire and placed at the centre of a Tasmanian wasabi leaf (right). “There’s not much to it,” adds Orr, though the look of delight on the faces of diners suggests there’s some kind of magic involved. NSW

Barbecued diavola chook at Pixie Food & Wine

This recipe is relatively simple, according to Matteo Tine, executive chef of Italian-ish restaurant Pixie (pixiebyronbay.com.au) in Byron Bay. “But it’s also a showstopper thanks

to the punch of flavour,” he says of the chicken dish (left) sizzled up with fermented chilli and salmoriglio. The kick comes from the chilli, of course, but it also gets a flavour hit from a two-day marination and charring process. If you’re lucky, Tine will have a secret stash of Trinidad scorpion and habañero sauce on offer behind the pass but be warned, adding this will spike spice levels to truly devilish heights. QLD

Gondwana trifle at The Paddock

“We’re on the edge of the Lamington National Park and there’s remnants in there of the ancient Gondwana forests,” says Simon Furley, executive chef at The Paddock at Beechmont Estate (beechmontestate.com.au). “Because I’m British, I thought ‘trifle’ and put the two together.” The result is a dreamy layered dessert of bush lemon-infused jelly, Victoria sponge, local citrus and lemon myrtle custard with a sprinkle of anise myrtle and green ants on top. The fruits change seasonally. “People come up here for the hikes and beautiful waterfalls,” says Furley. “They love to sit down to a dessert that tells the story of where they’ve been that day.”

Green ants on trifle, crazy water fish and a cheeky durian ice-cream… 2023’s best restaurant dishes weren’t shy.

Nikki To

Story by Alexandra Carlton

Presented by Australian Meat Emporium

A cut above At this one-stop inner Sydney meat emporium, you’ll find premium protein and expert advice – plus the perfect excuse not to cook dinner. To understand the ethos of Australian Meat Emporium (AME) in Sydney’s Alexandria, you have to travel to the pastoral foothills of the Snowy Mountains in the south-west of NSW. It’s here, on a lush 3000-hectare farm, that the Greenhalgh family, who own AME, raise their premium cattle on an all-grass diet. “Each animal is nurtured on grass for at least 750 days, which makes them incredibly precious,” says Harriette Greenhalgh, AME commercial director. “We aim to use as much of the animal as possible, to minimise waste.” The grass-fed beef is the pride of AME’s offering, along with Wagyu and grain-fed beef in primal cuts,

To find out more, visit meatemporium.com.au

steaks and an in-house dry-ageing program. Beyond beef, AME’s expansive coolroom is filled with more than 1000 products, including all-Australian whole lambs and pigs for spits, poultry, game, offal and Wagyu (only the Japanese Wagyu is imported).

The emporium features in-store butchers who will expertly slice an eye fillet into steaks or dice up short ribs, while staff on the shop floor offer advice to customers on the perfect cut and marble score for their occasion – and the ideal cooking temperature to match. The nose-to-tail approach means that what’s not sliced into premium cuts is turned into specialty products, including bone broth, bone marrow butter and beef and liver mince. “People love liver for its health properties and it adds a creaminess to a dish like Bolognese.” There’s also high-quality, grass-fed beef tallow made from rendered fat, which can be used to cook a cattleman’s cutlet. The ethos extends to the onsite café and AME’s new range of takehome meals that focus on traditional recipes, made from scratch with the highest quality grass-fed beef and Australian products, such as Pepe Saya butter and Olsson’s salt. “Massaman curry, lasagne and moussaka, pork and fennel sausage rolls and brisket pies… we have a great range that’s growing all the time. Our philosophy is to make a product that tastes as good as you could make at home, for the best possible price.”

Main Course

TAS

The caviar service at Institut Polaire

Everyone seems to be doing some sort of fancy caviar service these days and at Hobart’s Institut Polaire (institutpolaire. com.au), co-owner and creative director Louise Radman has pulled out all the stops. Choose between a sexy bump of sustainable Italian oscietra served alongside Süd Polaire vodka or indulge in the full condiment can-can with butter-toasted brioche, chive crème fraîche and 65-degree cured egg yolk. NSW

Cheese and bacon burger at Clam Bar

Who goes to a fancy restaurant and orders a burger? You do – or you should – at kitschy-cool New York steakhouse riff Clam Bar (clambarsydney.com) in Sydney’s CBD. The folks here know a burger; it’s the same team that created the crowd-favourite cheeseburger at Potts Point’s Bistrot 916. This spin

(above) distills all your beefy, cheesy dreams into one double-handed package, juices things up with raw and caramelised onion cooked in smoked bacon fat, adds special sauce and stabs a knife through the centre for drama. By all means order a prawn cocktail or a Barnsley chop to round things out but this burger should be your north star. VIC

Durian “Golden Gaytime” at Serai

Chef Ross Magnaye has served a Filipino version of the classic Aussie ice-cream since Serai (seraikitchen. com.au) opened in central Melbourne in mid 2022. He regularly mixes up the flavouring but the durian version (left), with its layers of caramel and peanut and citrusy drizzle of calamansi, proved to be one of the biggest hits. Future flavours knocking around in Magnaye’s imagination? Milo is one; salted pumpkin and coconut another. Stay tuned.

Main Course

office workers to ultra-hungover hospo staff needing something delicious, fresh and a little dirty to help them through their day.” ACT

Acqua pazza fish at Such and Such

There are quite a few bangers on the menu at Pilot’s colourful baby sibling (andsuchandsuch.com) in Canberra, including popcorn school prawns and the teeny, tiny one-bite kiwi dessert. But it’s the fish in acqua pazza (left), or crazy water, that’s the instant classic. It’s seafood – a little cod, a few mussels – in a gentle broth with some vegetables and a hint of chilli. Once you taste it, it’s clear that head chef Nick Peterson’s dish isn’t the slightest bit crazy.

VIC

Pad kra pao at BKK

New York-style chicken sando at Africola Canteen

Chicken sandwiches are worshipped across chef Duncan Welgemoed’s two Adelaide venues, the city’s Africola Soundsystem (africola.com.au) and Africola Canteen (@africolacanteen) in Norwood. Virtually every table orders the crisp chicken with chicken skin and peri peri on white bread at Soundsystem, while between 200 and 300 of the poached chicken, mayo and kosher pickle version are snaffled up at Canteen per week. Welgemoed says he’s tried to take the Soundsystem sando off the menu for six years but fears the riots that would follow. The Canteen incarnation prompts similar passions from patrons. “We have people come in every day to eat it,” he says. “From

Pastourmadopitakia at Yiamas

The pastourmadopitakia, or Greek hand pie, at this popular Subiaco spot (yiamasperth.com.au) consists of a thin thatch of filo over the top of a savoury cheese and pastrami filling with a cool mint sauce on the side. It’s got a big name, packs big flavour and should be enjoyed as part of a massive Greek feast.

Cassie Abraham

A good pad kra pao, or holy basil stir-fry, is one of Thailand’s greatest culinary gifts. When head chef Sungeun Mo of Melbourne’s BKK (her.melbourne) added a version to her menu midway through this year, the kitchen could barely keep up with demand. “We had to hire another wok chef,” she says with a laugh. “And buy more woks.”

Neighbourhoods

This is the insider’s guide to dining out in Sydney’s harbourside precinct, Barangaroo.

As told to Stephanie Wood Serial restaurateurs chef Brent Savage and his business partner, wine maestro Nick Hildebrandt (above left, with Savage), have been helping CBD workers slip between business and pleasure since they opened Bentley Restaurant + Bar (bentleyrestaurant group.com.au) in 2013. Adding Cirrus to their portfolio in 2016 gave the city a waterside seafood eatery to boast about. In an airy, sophisticated space in Barangaroo, a meal here might start with whipped cod roe and progress via Abrolhos Island scallops to West Australian marron with kombu butter. When he can escape the pans, Savage visits these neighbours.

Anason for authentic Middle Eastern food

Short Stop

Anason

“Istanbul-born Somer Sivrioglu, who is also a television megastar as a MasterChef Türkiye judge, does a wonderful job at Anason (anason.com.au). It’s a modern Middle Eastern experience but authentic, too. The breads are fantastic and classic dishes such as hummus – which might be served with beetroot falafel and pickles – are great. I always order a lamb dish, perhaps loin with eggplant purée.”

Bourke Street Bakery for a vegan “sausage” roll

“You really can’t go wrong at Bourke Street Bakery (bourkestreetbakery.com.au). I love the beef brisket, red wine and mushroom pie as well as the sausage rolls, but I usually go for the vegan option, which has eggplant, chickpeas and mint. The little muffins and sweet treats are also great, especially the ginger tart with a brûlée topping.”

Alana Dimou

Rivareno Gelato for limone sorbet

Bourke Street Bakery

“Rivareno (rivareno.com.au) does the most beautiful, authentic and artisanal gelatos, sorbets and granitas. I always have the limone sorbet – they manage to balance the creaminess and iciness without dairy.”

Devon Cafe for the OG breakfast burger

“I like to get anything that features the scrambled eggs, which are always perfectly textured here (devoncafe.com.au). The OG has those eggs, pecorino sausage from the excellent smallgoods producer, LP’s Quality Meats, and a hash brown. They also do some cool, Japanese-inspired stuff, like a chicken katsu sando and a spicy salmon bowl.”

Short Stop for maple walnut and brown butter doughnuts

“Short Stop (short-stop. com.au) is our neighbour and occasionally, to spoil the kitchen team, we buy a box of doughnuts to share. Some are simply glazed with flavours like my favourite, the maple walnut and brown butter, while others have oozy fillings such as matcha cheesecake or, on Sundays only, lemon meringue. They’re all delicious.”

New Order

Where to eat, drink and be seen right now.

Story by Alexandra Carlton NSW

Caravin

If the Sydney food scene had a motto, it would probably be something along the lines of “small plates, good wine”. Potts Point’s petite new wine bar, Caravin (caravin.com.au), from the team behind Scandi-style Bar Suze, lives it to the max. Apéro hour – a splash of vermouth and soda, maybe a baguette and some good cheese and saucisson – is a louche and lovely way to end the day.

Martinez

Martinez (martinez.sydney), in Sydney’s buzzing Circular Quay, is an ambitious undertaking, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner in a sort-of southern French style, six days a week across a restaurant and terrace. The tagliatelle with red mullet and fennel pollen is possibly the least French thing on the menu but it’s top of the must-order list. TAS

Trophy Room

Sonny alumni James Latham and Rose Tweeddale slung doughnuts at Farm Gate Market before branching out into the sit-down meal space with Trophy Room (@trophyroomhobart) in North Hobart. The food is bistro-style, with almost everything made in-house, including sourdough, charcuterie and even home-smoked bacon. Plus, of course, the odd batch of doughnuts. It’s open most days for breakfast and lunch but the prime sitting is Friday night dinner, when everything turns romantic and candlelit.

VIC

Julie

A restaurant that welcomes you as though you’re stepping into someone’s private house is true hospitality. Julie (julierestaurant.com.au) is part of innercity Melbourne’s Abbotsford Convent creative precinct and it promises homestyle happiness by way of lemon meringue-tinted interiors, a charming balcony and bistro-style food imagined by Julieanne Blum (who also works her magic at nearby Cam’s Kiosk café). Settle in for a whole flounder with gremolata, an octopus ragù pasta and perhaps a little salad of mixed leaves and radishes on the side, grown in the property’s own garden. WA

Lantern on the Quay

Sophisticated Cantonese dishes served with water views by Perth hospitality veteran Ricky Kwok make Lantern (lanternonthequay.com.au) a longed-for addition to Perth’s dining landscape. Order the kung pao-style prawns and whole roast duck and juice it up with a flamboyant cocktail such as The Hangover – a fruity blend of vanilla vodka, passionfruit and pineapple.

Lima Cantina

South American food is having a big, global moment thanks to a bunch of prestigious award wins for restaurants in Chile, Peru, Brazil and beyond. The buzz hits Perth at Lima Cantina (limacantina.com.au), a bright Peruvian eatery in Leederville. Empañadas and ceviche are the obvious things to order but there’s a lot to be said for taking

a detour on the road less travelled. Try the cauliflower gratin with yellow aji chilli sauce, the pan-fried prawns with pisco butter and the Angus rump cap with tangy anticuchera sauce – a classic Peruvian dressing made of garlic, coriander and beer. QLD

Antico

The team behind glamorous drinking dens Death & Taxes and Dr Gimlette has expanded its Brisbane empire with the opening of this split-level, Euroleaning cocktail bar on Burnett Lane (anticobar.com.au). Antico goes hard on the classics – there’s a straight-up great Negroni and Martini – but also turns up the fun with creations like the Lady Sage, a fierce fruitbowl of gin, apricot brandy, chartreuse and pineapple. SA

East End Cellars Norwood

The original and adored East End Cellars has blossomed away from its home base in the CBD to a brand new location in the increasingly food-focused Norwood (eecnorwood.com.au). There’s a mighty 500 bottles available to purchase and drink onsite with a $20 corkage fee, meaning you’re sure to find something that will play nicely with a curried prawn sando or roast Boston Bay porchetta with brussels sprouts and ginger jus. The newbie follows its parent location’s format of being a wine bar/restaurant/ bottle shop hybrid but there’s a stronger emphasis on food here, in no small part thanks to chef Josh Lansley (ex-Osteria Oggi and Press Food & Wine).

NIRA Creative

Julie in Melbourne (above); Brisbane’s Antico (below)

Taste Maker

Restaurateur Palisa Anderson from Chat Thai recalls a perfect meal in Japan.

“The experience of eating in ryokans, the country inns of Japan, is all about poise and a moment out of time – only heightened by the fact that everyone has changed from their day clothes into the inn’s robes after bathing in hot springs. In some ways it’s like an upmarket pyjama party. In the case of my visit to Zaborin, a very Zen ryokan on the island of Hokkaido, with my husband, Matt, and our kids, Soraya and Arthur (my all-time favourite dining companions), we were swaddled in the softest imaginable linen PJs. We arrived primed for something special and the kitchen more than held up its end of the bargain. It was February 2019 and the first spring mountain vegetables were coming into season. We ate purple carrots that had been stored in a cellar covered in snow. There was a wealth of cold-water seafood, whether it was raw red shrimp, the famed Hokkaido sea urchin, kinki – the red rockfish – cooked in shiro miso, or miso soup loaded with poached

lobster. The chefs cooked dry-aged duck over pine and we finished with locally grown rice and burdock pickles. Dessert was no less dazzling: ice-cream served with a beetroot syrup followed by sweet potato that had been slowly roasted in coffee grounds and a single, perfect armagnac-soaked prune. As if that wasn’t enough, when we came down for breakfast the next morning, we were served a meal almost every bit as detailed, right down to a glass of orange juice that, remarkably, was as clear as a glass of water. All of this against a backdrop of sublime architecture and the natural beauty of the snowy landscape, wrapped in quietly generous hospitality (and linen – lots of linen). It was somehow decadent and monastic all at once. When I think back to it, I’m filled with a yearning to find another moment in time just like it.”

Zaborin Ryokan 76-4 Hanazono, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido, Japan; +81 136 23 0003; zaborin.com Chat Thai various locations, Sydney; chatthai.com.au

Flore Vallery Radot

As told to Pat Nourse

Presented by Rockpool Bar & Grill

Rockpool, remixed Expect legendary dishes, Australia’s finest produce and a few surprises served up on this iconic restaurant’s inaugural dégustation menu. Over 14 years, Rockpool Bar & Grill’s Sydney flagship has established itself as a 220-seat titan of the industry. Yet the restaurant, set in a historic Art Deco venue and feted for its seamless service and some of the city’s best steaks, has never had a dégustation offering – until now.

The debut experience sees six courses – plus amusebouches that change every night – served to an intimate group of 22 diners in four sessions, Thursday to Saturday, in Rockpool’s mezzanine room. “It’s like having a restaurant within the restaurant,” says culinary director Corey Costelloe. Each dish will change seasonally and is elevated with a wine pairing from what Costelloe believes is Australia’s most extensive restaurant wine list (it has more than 2500 bottles of red alone) but the food doesn’t deviate too far from Rockpool’s firmly established DNA. “Most things are still cooked over the fire of the grill. We’ve still got that element of using smoke and charcoal, you’re still getting aged beef, it’s still produce-driven and we’re not putting flowers on the plate.”

Top picks Buffalo cheese tortellini “Our regulars demanded that this was on the menu. It’s a tortellini made with gnocchi dough and filled with buffalo curd that we make in-house from Burraduc Farm buffalo milk. It’s served with sautéed prawns, pine nuts, raisins and burnt butter. It’s an iconic Australian dish.” Robbins Island Wagyu sirloin “It’s Rockpool so you’re still getting steak, which will change depending on what cuts we have in. Right now you’re getting the centrepiece of a Robbins Island Wagyu sirloin with a roasted corn sauce – corn is hitting its peak season – and chimichurri.” Crème caramel “We only make the crème caramel while we can get our hands on cream from CopperTree Farms. It gives us a richer, more consistent flavour and is topped with a deep caramel that works well, before we change direction with our dessert menu as the summer fruits start coming in.”

To find out more, or book your seat, visit rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au

In The Drink

Voluptuous whites, rich reds and New Zealand on a plate. There’s plenty for everyone in Hawke’s Bay.

Story by Kendall Hill

With fertile soils and lots of sunshine, Hawke’s Bay is the food bowl – and the wine glass – of New Zealand’s North Island. The country’s second-largest winemaking region after Marlborough is best known for buttery chardonnays, Bordeaux-style reds and cellar doors that lean both lavish and laidback, often with good food and great banter (the wine helps). Discover the bounty on a Master of Wine-led bike tour (winecycles.co.nz) or tailor an itinerary with Prinsy’s Tours (prinsystours.co.nz).

couch with a flute of Billecart-Salmon and succumb to the tales and tastes behind Smith & Sheth’s prized drops, especially the Cru collection of syrah, chardonnay and the Cantera red blend, preferably sampled straight from the barrel. For more spontaneous tastings, pop into the sleek courtyard oenothèque.

Hastings Distillers

“We’re not a bar; we’re a tasting room,” insists Kate Galloway who, with her partner in life and wine, David Ramonteu, founded Hastings Distillers (hastingsdistillers.com), New Zealand’s first maker of certified organic spirits and liqueurs. Book ahead for a 90-minute experience in their sexy bar/tasting room On Heretaunga Street East, which starts with L’Opera, a bitter orange apéritif, moves through intriguing gins and vermouths and closes with cocktails, wine and snacks.

The drinks The Urban Winery

A funky cellar door inside the Art Deco National Tobacco Company in Napier by the country’s chardonnay king, Tony Bish (theurbanwinery.co.nz). Start your education with a Fat & Sassy chardonnay, the “gateway drug” to Bish’s generous whites. Knowledgeable staff make the experience but share plates, weekend gigs and an inventory of other Bay winemakers, including those without cellar doors, add to the appeal.

Smith & Sheth Heretaunga Studio

Curious types can delve deep into the Hawke’s Bay terroir (it’s all about soil and microclimates) at this theatrical Havelock North cellar door conceived as “a portal through which we take you on a sensory journey” (smithandsheth.com). Settle on the barrel room’s long napa

The eats

Florencia Menehem champion their place in the world via plates such as carpaccio of Awatoru venison with truffle and roasted halloumi from Hohepa Dairy. To drink? New Zealand wines from Hawke’s Bay and beyond, plus a shortlist of cocktails to complement the dining room’s retro glamour. No wonder it was named the country’s 2023 regional restaurant of the year.

Craggy Range

The Peabody family’s love of the Loire Valley shines through in the grandeur of their riverside estate (craggyrange.com) in Havelock North and the ambition of their wines (the Le Sol syrah and Aroha pinot noir are now sold through prestigious Bordeaux wine brokers). There’s a French accent, too, in executive chef Casey McDonald’s (ex-Cumulus and Cutler & Co. in Melbourne) indulgent menus, including slow-cooked paua with champagne sauce and his famous cheese soufflé. Book ahead for a guided tour with tastings of Craggy Range’s most prestigious vintages, savoured beneath mighty Te Mata Peak.

Mary’s

This is the warm, polished wine bar every town craves. Conceived as a COVID project by Craggy Range’s Casey McDonald, Mary’s (marys.co.nz) is a buzzy enoteca in upscale Havelock North for casual but elegant eating and drinking. Dine inside or on the covered patio on duck moussaka, cheeseburgers and silky tiramisu. Wines on offer are exclusively from Craggy Range (including the Mary’s Vineyard chardonnay that’s only available here and from the winery), plus there are beers and cocktails.

Central Fire Station Bistro

At this vibrant eatery (centralfirestation. co.nz) in one of Napier’s finest Art Deco buildings, chefs-owners Sam Clark and

The stay Black Barn

This collection of 17 beach, river and vineyard properties offers a luxurious taste of Kiwi bach culture (blackbarn. com). The architectural holiday houses range from seven bedrooms to two, including a couple that sit beside the Black Barn vineyard in Havelock North. Both are handy to the cellar door (don’t skip the Single Vineyard riesling, SV merlot or the Concetta red blend) and the smart, convivial bistro where Regnar Christensen does delicious things with local produce and a woodfired grill.

Craggy Range (above); The Urban Winery (below)

Wine List

Sancerre sauvignon blancs are nothing like their fruit-forward cousins.

Is Sancerre a grape or a place? It’s the name of a French appellation by the Loire River. Pouilly-Fumé is on the opposite eastern shore. What’s the connection? Both produce clean, crisp, mineral-laden sauvignon blancs. It’s the mandatory white grape there, where the unique terroir is defined by a deep seam of chalk that runs through Champagne and Chablis to the upper Loire before popping up again as Britain’s White Cliffs of Dover. Does the chalk affect the taste? Absolutely. Sancerre sauvignon blanc is lean, tight, minerally, acid-etched and understated – the polar opposite of the herbaceous, fruit-forward style of Marlborough, New Zealand. Where does Pouilly-Fumé fit in? Its wines tend to be richer and multi-layered, with white stone fruit flavours and a distinct, smoky character. Its hometown, Pouilly-sur-Loire, sits on the banks of the Loire and is influenced by the associated morning mists and trapped domestic woodsmoke – “fumé” translates as “smoked”. In contrast, Sancerre is a hilltop town above chalk-exposed valleys that impart its hallmark flinty character. That said, experts often confuse the two. Sounds like they’re good food wines? Yep. Try them with oysters, crustacea and French goat’s milk cheeses such as Crottin de Chavignol. Rocket salad with goat’s curd, beetroot and toasted walnuts is a regional classic. Are red grapes allowed? Pinot noir is planted for Sancerre rouge or rosé. In Pouilly-Fumé, sauvignon blanc is the sole variety. How much does it cost? About $30 gets you in the zone, with top drops upwards of $50. Any special labels to look out for? Domaine de Ladoucette Pouilly-Fumé ($76) and its sibling, Comte Lafond Sancerre ($71), are regional benchmarks, while Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($65) is widely distributed. The Dagueneau family (in the footsteps of late patriarch Didier) are famous local winegrowers. Drink now or cellar? While Sancerres are delicious in their youth, they age well for up to 10 years.

Domaine Gérard Boulay Sancerre à Chavignol

Serge Dagueneau & Filles Pouilly-Fumé

Vincent Pinard Florès Sancerre

Domaine Alphonse Mellot Sancerre la Moussière Rosé

This family domaine in the village of Chavignol dates back to 1380, with Gérard Boulay the current custodian. Intensity is the key, with perfumes of white nectarine and citrus blossom, along with a vibrant, mineral-laden finish.

Fourth-generation winemaker Valérie Dagueneau sustainably farms her family’s 19 hectares of vines planted on Kimmeridgian marl soil. There’s a savoury element to this vintage, with white pepper and a saline flourish.

Brothers Florent and Clément Pinard farm 17 hectares in the village of Bué and are believed to be the 15th generation to do so. This wine is rich in texture and flavour, with extra depth from extended yeast lees contact.

Alphonse Mellot planted two hectares of pinot noir 30 years ago especially for this exotic rosé. The resultant wine displays pure raspberry and white cherry flavours, a fine mineral structure and a snappy farewell.

Loire Valley, France / 2022 / $90

Loire Valley, France / 2021 / $58

Loire Valley, France / 2020 / $78

Loire Valley, France / 2020 / $98

Craig Wall. Shot on location at Itō, Surry Hills

Story by Peter Bourne

Presented by Starward Whisky

A corking collaboration Starward Whisky has teamed up with Yarra Valley’s first vineyard for a flavourful limited-edition release celebrating the very best of Victoria.

The barley is farmed in Victoria and the red-wine barrels are sourced locally. Port Melbourne distillers Starward have built a reputation for developing delicious, world-class whisky using Australian ingredients. “The idea was to make a whisky in Melbourne that we could grow and share with the world,” says Sam Slaney, Starward’s production director. “Originally, we matured our whisky in fortified wine or bourbon barrels but there simply weren’t enough around so in 2010, we turned to red-wine barrels.” The switch quickly became the label’s signature flourish and has earned it international recognition, being named the Most Awarded Distillery of the Year at the 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. There have also been exciting local collaborations such as its latest with Victoria’s first vineyard. Starward has partnered with Yering Station, established in 1838, to produce a limited-edition Pinot Noir Cask whisky. Here’s how Starward’s newest red-wine-barrel-aged whisky is made.

Grain by grain

Maturation makes flavour

All of Starward’s whiskies start with barley grown at three farms, which are located less than two hours from Port Melbourne. “Local malt is mainly for beer brewers so they toast it more, which gives it a bread-like, biscuity, cereal character,” says Slaney. The toasted grains are crushed, turned into a mash with water and left to ferment, forming a flavoursome base for the whisky. The fermentation builds the whisky’s flavour profile, giving the raw liquid enough body and interest to shine through the ageing process. “This stage is about making a delicious fruit-forward and clear spirit with bright notes, which we place into the wine barrels and will have the same flavour cues in the bottle.”

Taking their red-wine-barrel maturation somewhere new, Starward turned to cool-climate pinot noir specialists Yering Station. “We’re lucky that we’re so close to the Yarra Valley. We love being able to tell the story of the barrel, grapes, winery and vineyard in our own way.” For Slaney, the collaboration was made even more special when he came across 500-litre French oak puncheon barrels that had been filled with premium pinot noir. “High-quality puncheon barrels like these are hard to come by and were too good to pass up.” The whisky is matured in Starward’s red-wine barrels for three years before being moved into the Yering Station casks for a further two years to capture

the brightness and sweetness of the pinot noir. “The raw liquid goes in clear, then the spirit pulls the dark fruit flavour of the wine and the charred oak out of the barrel – while also becoming smoother, more viscous and tempered.” Thanks to Melbourne’s famously fluctuating weather, Starward is able to expedite the ageing process. The city’s hot summers cause the barrels to expand while the cold winters make the barrels contract, forging juicier forest-berry notes and oaky characteristics at a faster rate.

Gold in the glass After five years, the limitededition Pinot Noir Cask whisky develops a deep amber colour, a smooth body and a sweetness

Starward Pinot Noir Cask is available for a limited time only, exclusively through Melbourne Airport Lotte Duty Free Store as well as at yering.com. For more information, visit starward.com.au

that has come to represent Starward’s iconic red-winebarrel-aged liquor. “You want to see those pinot noir characteristics – dark cherry and black forest – and the spicy toasted vanilla flavours, smooth textural body and elongated finish from the French oak come through.” Much like the flavours in the limited-edition bottle, Slaney says the terroir of Victoria and history of Yering Station also shine through. “Using the casks is magical; if we take one of the barrels, it’s like we absorb their dedication to the craft. Utilising the puncheons and having the Yering Station team come and see what we do to get its pinot noir’s influence in the glass is part of the fun.”

Presented by Saffire Freycinet

Only in Tasmania This all-inclusive luxury lodge on the east coast creates bespoke experiences that promise to transform you. It’s the details that make all the difference at Saffire Freycinet. Like having a bottle of the Marco Lubiana pinot noir that you enthused about over dinner turn up in your suite the next day. Or in the smile of the skipper of Saffire, who asks if you mind returning to the lodge half an hour late because there’s a pod of whales preening ahead that you can join for company in the twilight. And it’s in the exquisite dish that executive chef Paddy Prenter has created just for you because he knows you love scallops (and those plucked from the water at Stanley Bay are ridiculously good). There’s a reason Saffire Freycinet is one of the most awarded luxury retreats in Australia. Yes, the five-star, all-inclusive resort has a world-class location on the east coast of Tasmania, with panoramic views of the Freycinet Peninsula, Great Oyster Bay and the Hazards, the epic mountain range that glows pink on cue each sunset. But the resort also revels in its sense of place. The Saffire team is passionate about giving guests one-of-a-kind experiences in the landscape, from donning a pair of waders and shucking oysters in the middle of the river (while drinking a glass of Tassie’s finest) or throwing on a beekeeping suit and slicing honeycomb directly from the on-site hives. And to really understand the history of the place, you’ll want to venture back in time with Indigenous guide Mick Quilliam, who will

take you on a walk to try some bush tucker and share lyrical tales about how Aboriginal people lived off this land. But you can do as much or as little as you want. The guest services team will tailor experiences to your desires… and if all you want is to spend three hours at Spa Saffire and have a macadamia body scrub followed by the Hazards Heated Stone Transformation, consider it sorted. You’ll certainly want to spend time in your over-sized suite, one of just 20 that cradle the coastline and offer time for reflection, relaxation and restoration in the most serene of settings. You’ll want to hop between meals that hero local produce at Palate restaurant and give over your next drink order to the experts in the lounge bar. And when you leave? You’ll want to come back.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER. Pay three nights and stay another night free for stays between 29 April 2024 and 30 September 2024. Scan the QR code to receive this exclusive offer for Qantas magazine readers. To learn more about Saffire Freycinet, visit saffire-freycinet.com.au

Trebartha East The Round House, Sri Lanka

THE JOURNEY

24 places to go in 2024

In search of Canada’s great white wonders. 70

Story by Alexis Buxton-Collins

My paddle disappears almost as soon as I dip it into the Churchill River, the bright-yellow blade quickly swallowed up by water the colour of black tea. As the ripples spread, they disturb the reflection of a clear summer sky that stretches out in every direction. Suddenly, this high-definition tableau is broken by a white cloud that grows rapidly until it’s almost as long as my kayak, which rocks from side to side when a beluga whale gently breaks the surface beside me. A loud intake of breath alerts me to another on my left and I turn just in time to see its slick white skin glistening in the sun. Glancing behind, I realise that half a dozen of the creatures are following and soon the sound of air being expelled from blowholes is joined by gasps of delight from other paddlers in my group. One particularly curious individual swims so close that I’m sure I can see it smile as it floats beside me like Casper the Friendly Ghost. Every summer, thousands of these distinctive white whales leave the cold waters of Hudson Bay to give birth to their calves at the mouth of the Churchill River in northern Manitoba, Canada. In number, size and curiosity, they seem more like dolphins than whales and they’re clearly as interested in me as I am in them.

Although the town of Churchill is world-famous for its wildlife, another species of charismatic megafauna tends to hog the headlines. This is the Polar Bear Capital of the World, where buildings are festooned with murals celebrating the region’s most famous residents and street signs warn of their dangers. Every autumn, hundreds of bears gather by the shore near town as they wait for the sea to freeze over, making it one of the best places in the world to observe them. Each day of the four-day Journey to Fireweed Island adventure (lazybearlodge.com) that I’m on with 19 others invites us to explore the region around Churchill in a different way. Mere minutes after the 2.5-hour flight from Winnipeg lands, we’re given the first of many polar bear safety talks from a sandy-haired young guide named Deacon Daudrich. When we cross the river to check out an 18th-century fort, there are so many belugas following our Zodiac that I soon lose count of them. A visit to a graffiti-covered plane wreck takes us past rounded granite boulders covered in fiery-orange lichen and fields filled with fluffy Arctic cotton grass and brightpink Indian paintbrush. At the end of each day’s adventures we return to Lazy Bear Lodge, where Churchill’s quiet main street is framed by

windows salvaged from a 19th-century trading post. Roughhewn timber walls adorned with hunting trophies and outdoorsy paraphernalia fit the remote location. The meals are simple but hearty, leaning heavily on local proteins, including freshly caught Arctic char and juicy bison burgers. As I head through the lobby to my room, I notice one last activity for the day: a sign-up sheet to register for a midnight call if the aurora borealis appears. After waking in the pink glow of the early morning, we take a boat along the coast as dozens of shiny white figures rise mysteriously from the ocean. This far north, the golden hour extends well beyond its usual remit and I watch as columns of spray are transformed into a shimmering haze by the soft light of the rising sun. For two hours we head through the “Beluga triangle”, where superpods of hundreds of whales congregate several kilometres out to sea. But as we approach land near Fireweed Island, Daudrich reminds me of the other locals. “The colour you’re looking out for isn’t pure white, it’s French vanilla,” he explains, fully aware that he’s instantly transformed every second rock into a Schrödinger’s bear. I scan the shoreline intently and after several false alarms I see an off-white boulder slowly rise and lumber between the rocks.

Chris Hendrickson

Raising my binoculars, I focus just in time to see a shaggy polar bear turn and look my way before lying down and disappearing from view. The planet’s largest land carnivores can grow up to three metres long and weigh 800 kilograms but they’re not the only thing I need to keep an eye on. “Watch out for the Arctic terns,” says Daudrich as we clamber into the Zodiacs and make our way to shore. “If you get near their chicks, they’ll work together to make a bird tornado and swoop until they’ve driven you away.” The threat of apex predators and cranky birds has me on alert from the moment we step back on land. Almost immediately we spot three bears a few hundred metres ahead – “a mother and two angst-ridden teenagers”, according to Daudrich. But they seem unbothered by our presence and we follow them at a distance as they enjoy what looks like a typical day at the beach. After playing about on the rocks and plunging into the water for a cooling swim, the trio wanders through a field of the wildflowers that give the island its name. For a brief window at the height of summer, the bright-red fireweed stalks are covered in clusters of brilliant purple flowers and the image of these magnificent beasts playing in a field of colourful blooms is as delightful as it is surprising.

Later, we see a catnapping male sprawled on his belly. “You can see why we call it the Lazy Bear Lodge,” says Daudrich as we’re treated to a giant, teeth-baring yawn. When the bear eventually comes in our direction, we move back to make space but the island’s other residents are less accommodating. Soon the sky is alive with a flock of red-billed terns badgering the bear. The waifish seabirds allow us to track the big guy’s progress, even when he disappears into a small depression. It’s a testament to the belugas’ charisma that they manage to relegate this unforgettable spectacle to a support act. And while it’s important to keep our distance from the bears, there are no such worries with the marine life. On the warmest day of the trip, we split into groups of five and head out in Zodiacs towing a large sheet of foam behind them. Once the belugas have noticed us, we take it in turns to lay down flat on the foam pontoon and put our heads into the water. Trying to spot them in the tannin-stained water would be a frustrating activity if not for one of their most endearing quirks: in addition to being the most vocal whale species (belugas are sometimes called “sea canaries”), they’re also attracted to anything that makes high-pitched sounds. With a little encouragement, I do my best to serenade the cetaceans and though my attempts at submarine singing are closer to tone-deaf gargling, any embarrassment disappears when a large white ghost appears out of the gloom. Slowly approaching until it’s just 10 centimetres from my face, the beluga swims at a leisurely pace to match the boat’s speed before turning on its side and staring at me quizzically with an upturned eye. I watch as it slowly moves up and down in the water then pirouettes as gracefully as a ballerina. Inspired, I launch into an aria from The Magic Flute and hear a German photographer onboard laughing as she recognises my attempts to emulate the Queen of the Night. Though I have no hope of getting close to a high C, my underwater audience seems entirely at ease and continues to return. Each time it turns on its side, I can see the gentle curve of its mouth and sometimes it nuzzles up so close that I can make out every detail on its melon-shaped head, right down to the small scar on its nose. It’s not until I hop back into the boat that I realise there’s not just a single beluga following us but an entire pod, including a tiny newborn calf with darker skin that’s just a few weeks old. And as the sound of underwater singing mingles with the soft exhalation of whales breathing, I decide that pod is far too prosaic a collective noun for these magical creatures. A “fan club” of belugas would be more fitting or maybe a “front row”. Even a “surprise” of belugas, given how frequently they’ve defied my expectations. Perhaps the biggest surprise comes when we return to the lodge on our final night. I’m exhausted but exhilarated after three full days of chasing (and being chased by) the wildlife. When I see the aurora sign-up sheet, I find myself uttering a phrase I never dreamed would pass my lips. “Don’t worry about waking me up if the northern lights come out tonight,” I tell the receptionist. “I think I’ve had enough excitement for one day.”

Here’s why Durban is South Africa’s next big thing.

glam Lighthouse Bar for an Umhlanga Schling – a muddle of sugarcane spirits, pineapple, mint and mango.

Story by Rachelle Mackintosh

The vibe

With Johannesburg just a 70-minute flight away, the balmy Indian Ocean welcoming year-round dips and familyfriendly holiday apartments right on the water’s edge, it’s hardly a surprise that most of Durban’s visitors come from Jo’burg to recharge. Join them wandering along the Golden Mile, a near seven-kilometre promenade that runs from the uShaka Marine World theme park (ushaka marine.com) to Moses Mabhida Stadium and makes it easy to cycle, stroll or Segway between swims and surfs. But 20 minutes drive north, it’s gentrified uMhlanga that’s emerging as the city’s most prized playground, with upmarket bars along Chartwell Drive, a new luxury mall and exclusive residences. Perched on the shoreline, The Oyster Box Hotel (oysterboxhotel.com) shines bright, its old-school opulence accented by shades of aqua-blue and lighthouse-red. Having hosted everyone from Prince Harry to Mariah Carey, the five-star sanctuary is lauded for its interior design (the 86 rooms, suites and villas are individually decorated) and its Facebook-famous cat, Skabenga. Plus, its decadent spa offers hammam sessions and traditional Rungu massages – a deep-tissue treatment in which the therapists incorporate an East African throwing club into their technique. Savour sundowners and oysters on the private terrace of your Luxury Sea Facing Room or head to the

The people

Downtown reveals the living history of the people who shaped Durban’s evolution from waterside settlement to bustling city. The seaport has long been southern Africa’s most important and busiest: the first Europeans landed here in 1497; the British, Dutch and native Zulus then battled over it for centuries; and the first Indians arrived as slaves in 1684 (the city now has the world’s largest Indian population outside of the Subcontinent). The city’s multicultural journey is played out in its architecture, with Victorian, Edwardian and neo-Baroque administrative edifices alongside more than 100 Art Deco buildings, an African traditional herbal medicine market and the Phoenix Settlement, where Mahatma Gandhi lived in his formative years. At the PheZulu Safari Park, local Zulus present a deep dive into customary dance, artefacts and delicacies such as Umqombothi – a maize beer sipped from a communal clay pot.

The food

“At every hour of the day in Durban, someone’s eating a bunny chow,” says executive sous chef Larry Ramadhin, known as the King of Curry. He’s talking about the city’s most popular meal – a hollowed-out quarter loaf of bread filled with curry made from beans or meat (but strangely, no rabbits). While no-one seems to agree on how it got its name, the dish was developed by Indian

workers in the 1940s and infused with African flavours. “The fillings have changed over the decades but the original and most popular is still mutton,” says Ramadhin. Try his version at Oyster Box’s Ocean Terrace or head to low-key House Of Curries (fb.comhouseofcurries). For a fancy dinner, book a table at 9th Avenue Waterside at the Durban Marina (9thavewaterside.co.za) where head chef Theo Chiloane gives local ingredients like East Coast prawns and rock cod a Mediterranean twist.

The wildlife

You don’t have to go far for an animal encounter – you might even spot vervet monkeys in Durban’s beachside dunes. For a more immersive experience, visit St Lucia, three hours drive north, where the World Heritage-listed iSimangaliso Wetland Park and its neighbouring waterways are home to everything from whales to their closest land relatives, hippos. Makakatana Bay Lodge (qantas. com/hotels/makakatanabaylodge) has eight plush suites and exclusive access to iSimangaliso’s remotest areas, while Thula Thula Private Game Reserve (thulathula.com) is a 4500-hectare wilderness where the rescued giants immortalised in Lawrence Anthony’s bestseller, The Elephant Whisperer, roam freely alongside an ark’s worth of creatures, including rhinos, hyenas and giraffes. Back in town, you might score a sighting over dinner at John Dory’s restaurant (johndorys.com). “Some nights,” says assistant manager Wonder L’tosa Molefe, “a few hippos come from the lake to graze and they walk up the main street right next to our terrace.”

(From top right) The Lighthouse Bar at The Oyster Box and the hotel’s entrance

Story by Dilvin Yasa

There’s a buzz in Sri Lanka that’s at odds with the country’s reputation as a laidback, tropical nirvana where leopards stretch out on gnarled treetops in Yala National Park and locals sip ice-cold ginger beer on overturned rowboats. Located in the Indian Ocean, just off the southern tip of India, this island nation offers every kind of holiday within a compact setting. And now, the hotels to

match: Trebartha East The Round House (below; trebartha-east.com) overlooking a five-hectare cinnamon plantation near the beach town of Ahangama; the highly anticipated Cinnamon Life Integrated Resort (cinnamonhotels.com) in the capital, Colombo; and Hilton Yala Resort (qantas.com/hotels/hiltonyalaresort), newly opened in Palatupana in the country’s Southern Province. Pass languid mornings searching for sloth bears on a red-dust safari (yalasrilanka.lk) or fanning yourself under the hanging palms of Wijaya Beach. Make a mountain getaway to a Nuwara

Eliya tea plantation hotel one day and a pilgrimage to Kandy, home to Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (and one of eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the country), the next. Book a table at Colombo’s celebrated Ministry of Crab (ministryofcrab.com) to feast on lagoon crab curry; take the train from Kandy to Ella past jungle and hilltop villages (samosa and spicy vadai – moreish savoury doughnuts – are essential for the seven-hour trip); and shop for rubies and sapphires in the historic city of Galle. Sounds busy but there’s no resisting relaxation here – just ask the locals.

Set your watch to island time in Sri Lanka.

Patrick Latham

ON SHOW IN CANBERRA

OPENS 15 DECEMBER 2023 nma.gov.au/ancient-egypt

TICKETS NOW ON SALE

PRESENTING PARTNER

MA JOR PARTNERS

The presentation of this exhibition is a collaboration between the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (National Museum of Antiquities, Leiden, the Netherlands), the National Museum of Australia, the Western Australian Museum and the Queensland Museum Network. Inner coffin of Amenhotep (detail), 21st Dynasty, about 1076–944 BCE, Thebes, Egypt. © Rijksmuseum van Oudheden.

Ballarat’s booming again. 78

Story by Kendall Hill Photography by Lauren Bamford

“We’re aiming for people to make a connection to the region,” says David Cook-Doulton as he guides me through Hotel Vera (hotelballarat.com.au), the seven-suite luxury accommodation that he and partner Martin Shew created in Ballarat, 90 minutes from Melbourne. Each suite’s colour scheme is inspired by other Victorian goldfield towns – the dusky blue skies of Sandon, the pink soils of Tourello – and styled with designer furnishings and arresting art. Rooms are thoroughly modern (hello, bedside induction chargers), while honouring the heritage character of this 1893 mansion on central Sturt Street. “We have a love for old buildings but also for the contemporary,” says Cook-Doulton. It’s a short stroll to Aunty Jacks (auntyjacks.com.au), an industrial brewhouse clad in colourful recycled doors, mirrors and cupboards, offering music, food and six craft brews from a pale summer lager to a wintry vanilla porter. After one quick

Thomas Cockrem

drink, I drive 20 minutes out of town to Wattle Flat where Liam and Melissa Downes have recently taken over Black Cat Truffles (blackcattruffles.au), an eight-hectare truffière and restaurant. Weekend truffle hunts run during much of the year, with elaborate meals or grazing plates served afterwards, but on Fridays Liam prepares an eight-course long lunch menu. Six of the courses I’m served, including luscious wood-roasted chicken and even the double-cream French cheese, come with truffle. I stop by a former welding shop at Mount Pleasant where Chris Pratt (no, not that Chris Pratt) and Rebecca Mathews have opened Kilderkin Distillery (kilderkindistillery.com.au). The gins make good use of native botanicals – cinnamon myrtle, desert lime – and I’m encouraged to drink them neat, like whisky (which Kilderkin also makes, having just released a single malt after five years in barrels). I end the day with an exceptional dinner for one at Mr Jones (mrjonesdining.com.au), where former Nahm London head chef Damien Jones conjures mod-Thai dishes that are nuanced and exciting, from punchy betel leaf parcels to smoky duck curry and a som tum-style barramundi salad. Even though a classy continental breakfast is served every morning in Vera’s sleek, luminous dining room, I walk around the block to check out Johnny Alloo (johnnyalloo.com), a fire-warmed café of exposed brick and all-day brunch dishes, including laksa, scrambled eggs with chilli crab, and prawn and ’nduja tagliatelle. Breakfast Negronis are optional. Next, a culture fix at Australia’s oldest and largest regional art gallery. Behind the 19th century Renaissance façade of the Art Gallery of Ballarat (artgalleryofballarat.com.au) is a dynamic collection of works by famous Australian artists such as Beckett, Nolan and Williams, and always an exhibit that connects visitors to the city’s history. The highlight for me is the gallery’s latest acquisition, John Brack’s whimsical The Chase, which depicts his three daughters playing together. Ballarat’s newest bar, Grainery Lane (grainerylane.com.au), brings gold rush-era excess to an old grain store with a dazzling array of chandeliers (60 and counting) and two antique American saloon bars carved extravagantly with lion heads and Corinthian columns. “It’s all about the experience,” says owner and hospitality king Brian Taylor (Hop Temple, Roy Hammond), who’s installed a speakeasy upstairs and an onsite distillery crafting eight gins and two vodkas. Chef Scott Alsop makes good use of the house pours in his vodka-spiked scallops and G&T oysters. Though I haven’t stopped grazing since I got here, there’s no way I’d leave Ballarat without eating at Underbar (underbar. com.au). Tricky to book, chef Derek Boath’s 14-seat fine-diner opens only on Friday and Saturdays evenings, serving 10-dish dégustations with the precision (and often the flavours) of Japanese cuisine, the finesse of French gastronomy and exceptional Australian produce. Given Boath’s kitchen pedigree – he returned home to Ballarat from the three-starred Per Se in New York – the experience feels luxuriant but also local and celebratory. Standouts include a satiny chawanmushi with spanner crab and a sour cream panna cotta with calamansi jelly, lemon cream and makrut lime foam that channels the pleasure of a lemon meringue pie. Wine guy Anthony Schuurs deftly matches the drinks – anything from yuzu sake to cult Austrian winery Gut Oggau. The experience is international-standard and the ultimate way to connect with this charismatic city.

(Previous page) Ballarat Town Hall; (top) Underbar’s Derek Boath; (above) Grainery Lane

FOREVER MINE. NOT MINED. To celebrate the grand opening of our new Chadstone boutique, we are unveiling a masterpiece. A one-of-a-kind, Oval Brilliant 10.27 Carat Lab-Grown Diamond. Exquisitely crafted in 18 Carat White Gold, nestled amongst a further 0.90 Carats of perfectly matched Lab-Grown Diamonds, totalling 11.17 Carats. Independently certified as Colour F, Clarity VS2 with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. The ultimate symbol of eternal love. $88,900 This stunning ring is for purchase at shop G-098A, Chadstone Shopping Centre, Melbourne.

W WW. SECRETS-S HHH.COM

Carve through cowboy country on two wheels. Story by Catherine Marshall

Fortitude is celebrated on the crests of the White Rim Trail in Utah’s Canyonlands National Park. The popular, long-distance mountain-biking track traces the contours of this arid, sparsely populated pocket of the American Northwest. As you freewheel into valleys and power up tightly zipped switchbacks,

you’ll be awed by nature’s architecture: arches and spires sculpted by time and wind, along with the relentless flow of the Green and Colorado rivers. The four-day, moderate-intensity expedition with Escape Adventures (escapeadventures.com) starts in Moab, a four-hour drive from Salt Lake City, and traverses 160 kilometres of this remote and replenishing wilderness. Adventure lovers can bring along idler family members and friends as e-bikes are available for hire and support

vehicles are on hand for those who need a boost. While you ride, gaze up at striated rock faces, down into yawning gorges traced silver with water and hear about the First Nations people whose stories animate the landscape. None of this rugged isolation precludes comfort: tents come with camping beds and snug sleeping bags to ward off the night chill; guides double as gourmet cooks; and days end before a blazing fire, the sun painting the sky pink, mauve and copper.

Michael Svoboda

Fly into the fabulous side of Alice Springs 7–10 MARCH 2024

Find out more and book your tickets at fabalice.com

Colombia’s colourful coastal city Cartagena is calling.

Story by Rachelle Mackintosh

The wall around Cartagena’s Old Town may have been built to keep greedy pirates out but today it’s the boundary marker of a year-round fiesta. “The vibe here is beautifully Caribbean,” says guide Tavo Reyes. “It’s relaxed, chaotic, joyful, anarchic and romantic.” Situated on Colombia’s north coast, the city was established in 1533 by Spanish conquistadors who, soon after arriving, built a hub for their gold-running galleons, enslaved people trade, Inquisition and war with the Brits. The Colombian spirit held strong and in 1811 Cartagena claimed its independence and earned the nickname “La Heroica”. It now wears its past like a technicolour poncho: a formidable fort looms over lolly-coloured colonial façades that house bars, eateries, emerald vendors and hotels – all flanked by the sparkly Caribbean sea. It adds up to an atmosphere where anything goes.

The World Heritage-listed Old Town has three districts. El Centro, San Diego and Getsemani are connected by cobbled streets and lively plazas. Reyes recommends going for a stroll at about 4pm and to “take your time so you can see the sunset light up the city’s colours”. As you wander through the vivid streets immortalised in Gabriel Garcia Márquez’s novels, grab a fruit snack from the brightly dressed Palenquera women – descendants of enslaved Africans who founded the Americas’ first free town, San Basilio de Palenque, just outside the city. Explore the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas and La Popa Convent then wet your whistle. “People love supporting Getsemani’s small bars as it helps the district avoid gentrification. In El Centro, everybody wants to go to Alquímico and the Movich’s rooftop bar,” says Reyes. Afterwards, check into the opulent Charleston Santa Teresa (qantas.com/hotels/charleston santateresa), which offers sprawling views of the historic districts, the coastline and the modern city, complimentary bicycles for adventurous guests as well as a stand-out day spa. The Caribbean waters are a treasure-trove. They’re home to an untouched pirate shipwreck that’s said to contain $31 billion worth of gold and jewels. While the sunken booty remains tied up in a legal battle, you can experience the sea’s other gems, the laid-back Rosario Islands. Book a day cruise to Barú Island or gain exclusive access and transfers to private Acasí Beach when

you stay at El Centro’s lavish Hotel Casa San Agustin (qantas. com/hotels/casasanagustin). Back on the mainland, the jungle is just an hour out of town. “On a visit to Los Límites village we took a bushwalk with Proyecto Titi’s conservation team to find cotton-top tamarins,” says Kiwi Peter Pritchard, who travelled to the city with Adventure World (adventureworld.com.au). “There’s only 7500 of these tiny monkeys left in the world so seeing them bouncing around the jungle was unforgettable.” Whatever you do, come to Cartagena hungry. There are about 400 eateries in the city, including the elegant Café Del Mar (cafedelmarcartagena.com.co), queue-worthy La Cevicheria (lacevicheriacartagena.com) and Cafe del Mural (@cafedel mural), where you can sample Colombia’s legendary coffee. “Cartagena’s cuisine is influenced by Indigenous, Caribbean, African and Spanish flavours, textures and traditions,” says chef Romario Acosta. “It comes from family recipes developed over generations, like the cóctel de camarones, our local prawn cocktail ceviche. For street food, the arepa con huevo is my favourite – it’s a soft egg inside crunchy double-fried dough, served with hot sauce.” Taste these specialties and more by taking a class with Acosta at SkyKitchen Cooking School (skykitchen.co) or make your way through the rainbow of fresh tropical produce and seafood at the Bazurto Market to fully savour the local fare.

NARRATED BY DAVID ATTENBOROUGH

BOOK NOW

BBCEARTHEXPERIENCE.COM

THE BBC AND BBC EARTH ARE TRADEMARKS OF THE BRITISH BROADCASTING CORPORATION AND ARE USED UNDER LICENSE. BBC LOGO © BBC 1996. BBC EARTH LOGO © BBC 2014.

No-one knows what’s on the menu at this remote Norwegian restaurant. Story by Lara Picone

Tobias L Torjusen

Anchored amid the midnight-blue waters of Norway’s breathtakingly beautiful Hardangerfjord, the Salmon Eye (salmoneye.no) is a 14.5-metre, four-level silvery orb that bobs like a fallen zeppelin. Here, guests revel in the artistry of Danish chef Anika Madsen at Restaurant Iris (restaurantiris.no), where a mysterious menu of hyper-local and sustainable produce aims to both delight and deliver a poignant message about the fragility of our global food system. To take your place at the 24-seater and embark on this six-hour culinary event, you must first skip across the frigid waters in an electric boat from nearby Rosendal (itself a two-hour ferry ride from Bergen). While evening gowns are acceptable, they’re somewhat less glamorous worn under the required life jacket and, with no dress code, a puffer probably wins out. Snacks are served as you disembark at Madsen’s boathouse on the island of Snilstveitøy before you’re dropped off at Salmon Eye to absorb a multi-sensory underwater experience. From here, the ever-changing 18-course set menu unfurls, underscored by ingredients foraged in the surrounding mountainous terrain. Dubbed “expedition dining”, few concessions are made for dietary requests so consider this an adventure – of the heart and palate.

Story by Bek Day

In a city where football matches play on flat screens in the very same pubs where Keats and Dickens once filled their boots, duality reigns supreme. Even in its planning stages, London’s National Gallery (nationalgallery.org. uk) embodied this same convivial jostling between gilded history and sparkling possibility. The gallery’s location in Trafalgar Square was initially chosen in 1831 for

its accessibility to both the rich and the poor, the former arriving in carriages from the west and the latter on foot from the city’s East End. “We all miss out when anyone thinks that the National Gallery is not for them,” says director Dr Gabriele Finaldi. Next year marks 200 years since the institution opened its doors and NG200, a 12-month celebration, heralds one of the most dynamic moments in the gallery’s history. (Another being the period between 1941 and 1945 when the entire collection was moved underground to a Welsh slate mine to keep the treasures safe from the Blitz).

A major Van Gogh exhibition – the first in the United Kingdom since 2010 – will begin a century after the gallery acquired Sunflowers and promises works from private collections never before seen in public. Summer on the Square brings an art festival for children and their families to Trafalgar Square, while the first-ever full-scale exhibition of 14th-century Sienese art outside of Italy showcases some of Europe’s earliest and most exquisite paintings. According to Finaldi, the program maintains the gallery’s egalitarian aim of “bringing people and paintings together”.

Roman Akash

There’s a party in London and everyone is invited.

Cruising down Cyclone Creek aboard the open powerboat Full Throttle, I’m enjoying the low-throttle end of a huge day on Dambeemangaddee Country. A theatrical sunset lights up the ancient red escarpments of the Kimberley coast and filters through the mangroves, offering up picture-postcard shots. Birds twitter, insects flit and somewhere, I know, saltwater crocodiles lurk. But the tide is going out and pre-dinner drinks await aboard my home for the night, the luxury houseboat Jetwave Pearl, which is moored at the mouth of the creek. Guides and boatmen Tommy and Tyler are just beginning to rev up the motor when what had seemed to be a floating log swings itself about and swims directly towards us. It’s a crocodile, nearly three metres long, and as it approaches, someone, maybe me, asks nervously, “Do those things jump?” They do but it didn’t. In any case, Tommy and Tyler, who wear safety consciousness like a badge, were never going to let it get close enough to try. The 24-Hour Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventure I’m on begins with a 65-minute scenic flight from Broome (horizontalfallsadventures.com.au). As a Cessna 208 Caravan takes our 12-person group 270 kilometres northeast to Lalang-gaddam Marine Park, our pilot, Yindi, flies low enough to catch mesmerising views of the Dampier Peninsula, King Sound and the rows of serpentine ranges that characterise this part of the Kimberley. Before splashing down by the main pontoon in Talbot Bay, Yindi dips a wing to give us our first look at the area’s central attraction: Garaangaddim. Two sets of rocky limbs reach towards one another across the turquoise waters of the bay. The tides here rise and fall over 11 metres and the huge volume of water that pushes through the two gaps creates the dramatic eddies and sideways torrents that give the place its English name: Horizontal Falls. It’s easy to see why Sir David Attenborough has called it “Australia’s most unusual natural wonder”. Tommy and Tyler greet the plane at the pontoon and we board Full Throttle to drop our overnight bags at the newly refurbished Pearl, the 26-metre, 10-cabin houseboat (20 guests maximum) that will be our base until Yindi returns to collect us the following

Spend the night at Horizontal Falls, WA.

Story by Linda Jaivin

morning. Each cabin has a stylish ensuite with hot showers and luxe amenities. My room, the smallest of the three types, is little bigger than a double bed but I’m not going to spend much time in it as there’s too much else to do, including a ride over the falls in an open helicopter that takes two guests at a time and an enjoyable if unproductive fishing trip. (“That’s why it’s called fishing, not catching,” says Tommy, laughing.) Later, submerged in the caged pool at the main pontoon’s marine viewing platform, I have a conversation with a couple of snub-nosed tawny nurse sharks, a non-aggressive breed that feeds by sucking octopi and crustaceans out of crevices into their small, sharptoothed mouths. One climbs atop the other to study me through the protective wire mesh; I stare back, keeping my fingers well out of sucking distance. Although some of these activities are available in half- or full-day tours, staying overnight on the houseboat takes the experience to another level. Add the comfort of the boat with its enthusiastic crew, open bar and the spectacular meals (including a sublime lunch of locally caught barramundi with beurre blanc and a more-ish berry tart) conjured up by resident French chef Thibault Villanueva and it’s not so much a day to remember as 24 hours I’ll never forget.

Presented by

Christmas on High Street

Colour their world

Think little

At Mud Australia, you’ll find pastel-toned plates or rich-hued coffee mugs, featuring the brand’s signature gloss and matt finishes, for your most colourful friend. If they love to entertain, Maison Balzac has lemon-inspired platters (right) while wine-lovers might prefer the pink Palmier glasses created with Oscar-winning designer Catherine Martin – they’re begging for a chilled rosé this Christmas.

In just two stops, you’ll have tots to tweens sorted. Visit Kinderplay Playthings for Playmobil and Brio, all things Claris: the Chicest Mouse in Paris or even an Atomic Slime Lab for the budding scientist. At Kidstuff (right), cuddly Squishmallows Disney toys and Lego sets will bring the grins.

Get styling

Boutique store Gaudion Furniture runs the gamut from sophisticated to charming homewares – think oversized champagne buckets (left) and Ralph Lauren Home cushions through to a gilded lobster bottle opener (above).

Keep calm

If you know someone who needs a little pampering this Christmas, start at Matilda Life (far left). It’s a hub for all things sustainably made in Australia, from stylish loungewear to tempting indulgences – we’re talking Who is Elijah perfume (left), Orchard St teas and Hutwoods Bath Soak. For some time out, opt for a voucher from Calma Spa & Skin Clinic for a Hot Stone Massage or heavenly Bamboo Body Polish.

This festive season, find everything you need at High Street Armadale. Shop 270 premium boutiques and retailers – across beauty, homewares, fashion and more – and indulge in High Street’s cafés, bakeries and restaurants while picking out something truly exceptional for your nearest and dearest. Consider Victoria’s premier shopping experience a gift to yourself.

Deck the walls

Design nerds, film buffs and Francophiles will love anything from Letitia Morris Gallery (left), where they’ve been sourcing original advertising posters from France for 30 years. Discover vintage campaigns from Taittinger and Perrier, plus exhibition posters from Picasso and Matisse.

Spoil someone

For the person who always puts everyone else first, give the gift of self-care. Pop by Image at Katan (left) and pick up a voucher for a cut and colour. Elsewhere, Mecca Cosmetica staff will guide you through the wide range of make-up, skin- and hair-care from brands including Nars, FaceGym and Briogeo. Over at Aesop, grab the Reverence Aromatique Hand Cream for the ultimate indulgence.

Meet cute

For the smallest additions to your world, head to The Memo (far right). Choose from sweet outfits from Wilson and Frenchy, Kip&Co and Nature Baby, soothing Balm by Brillo Beauty (right) and show-stopping toys, such as a wooden fruit chopping kit, plush Mr Crocodile or a cool ride-on dinosaur.

Opt for all the trimmings Go luxe

A haven for premium homewares, Rose St. Trading Co. (left) stocks everything from Assouline travel books to Marmoset Found decorative vases. Provincial Home Living has interior decor covered, with luxe knitted throws, accent cushions and Christmas pine-scented candles.

Little things can make big statements. At Kitte you’ll discover eye-catching jewellery (above), including Studio 54-inspired chain-fringe earrings and chunky silver cuffs, along with charms to add to bracelets and necklaces. For a gift that will last forever, drop into Catanach’s Jewellers for simple pieces in silver or gold and unique additions such as amethyst earrings and diamond tennis bracelets.

To find out more, visit highstreetarmadale.com.au | Instagram/Facebook @highstreetarmadale

Story by Lara Picone

Singular in its concept and accomplishment, Amanyangyun (qantas.com/hotels/amanyangyun) began as a philanthropic avocation to salvage historic villages earmarked for demolition. Relocating a clutch of architecturally significant Ming and Qing Dynasty villas from rural Fuzhou

to the Minhang district of greater Shanghai (700 kilometres away) took 16 meticulously organised years and included a major restoration project. But the result of this effort eventually saw luxury hotel group Āman invite the first guests to the property in 2018. The hotel is exquisitely ornamental in traditional detailing yet modernist in its new-build elements, the bygone and the present day harmonising beside a tranquil lake and camphor woodlands. Serious pains have been taken to

encourage an intimate village ambience throughout the resort, where trees line paved walkways and the 26 suites and 13 Antique Villas are light-filled retreats with warm timber panelling, muted tones and elegant Chinese artworks. A wellness centre soothes with bathing suites and healing treatments, while three restaurants and a bar provide restoration of a more convivial nature, ensuring Aman’s yangyun embodies every bit of its Mandarin meaning: “nourishing cloud”.

Mountains were moved to open this luxury hotel just outside Shanghai. 94

Freshly independent, Timor-Leste is Asia’s newest drawcard.

Story by Rachelle Mackintosh

Dawn’s light dances across the mountains as Rabilau village elders chant and pound their drums, their feathered headdresses gilded by the rising sun. Flashing betel nut-red smiles, they lead me and my six fellow travellers into a circle where we hold hands and kick together in a joyful rhythm that’s more Nutbush than can-can. The music peters out and we’re called to an altar where village chiefs touch our necks and foreheads in a traditional blessing. As they deliver their address in the Mambae dialect, our tour leader, Anas Madeira, translates: “They want you to know that this ceremony, the Matak Malirin, makes us family and that you’ll always have a home here. No matter when you come back, they’ll remember you.” And he means it. “I was born near here but as a baby, my mum sent me to an orphanage to keep me safe during the conflict,” says Madeira. “When I came back, 14 years later, this same blessing ceremony made me part of the village again. It’s real. And you’re only the third group of travellers these people have ever met.”

Rachelle Mackintosh

This kind of authentic connection underscores Intrepid Travel’s expedition into South-East Asia’s newest country (intrepidtravel.com). After centuries of Portuguese occupation and decades of conflict with neighbouring Indonesia, the tiny nation of Timor-Leste became independent in 2002. Today it has a peaceful, laid-back vibe and you won’t find any five-star resorts or hordes of holidaymakers. “Our infrastructure is just starting to develop,” says Madeira. “And that’s the beauty of it – everything’s still original here.” The nine-day trip starts in the capital, Dili, about 80 minutes’ flight from Darwin, where the 27-metre-tall statue of Cristo Rei towers over sandy beaches and monuments to freedom fighters abound. Construction sites, coconut carts, stately government buildings, new boutiques and tarp-roofed stalls converge here. There’s optimism in the balmy, 33-degree air as we visit the Timorese Resistance Archive & Museum and night markets before resting in simple digs at the Timor Lodge Hotel (timorlodgehotel.com). We head to Ataúro Island then Maubisse, where Rabilau is located, in the mainland’s central highlands. The 4WDs in our convoy make light work of the precarious roads on the way to coffee plantations, the Pousada de Maubisse Portuguese homestead and hilltop shrines where Indigenous animist altars stand alongside Catholic crosses. The tour was created in partnership with the Market Development Facility – a multi-country initiative that supports communities growing their economies – so there are plenty of opportunities to give back to the locals. I buy handicrafts from Projeto Montanha (@projetomontanha), where young people learn art, crafts and cookery, and grab an espresso from Letefoho (cafeletefoho.com), which supports a co-op of coffee growers. At Dili’s Ahi Matan (fb.com/asosiasaunhaliburinovadores), we taste indigenous ingredients in classic dishes, such as batar tuku belar (popcorn stew with moringa leaves and grilled tuna), etu hakmarik (cassava rice) and lekirauk ikun, a zesty cordial made from a rhubarb-like mountain plant. On another day, we stop for a hearty lunch of batar da’an corn grits, Maliana rice, spicy tempeh and tangy mango salad at Dili’s Agora Food Studio (timorlestefoodlab.com), a social enterprise training farmers in sustainability. “Our food brings everyone together to nahe biti – or in English, spread out a mat – to share stories and connect,” says Paula Torres, one of Agora’s directors. During our overnight trip to the former prison island of Ataúro, about 45 minutes from Dili by speedboat, we discover that its five remote villages are home to 8000 residents who subsistence farm and fish. As we pull into the beach at Beloi, it feels like stepping back in time: the white sand is deserted except for a handful of locals and Aussie expats who’ve come

97 over from Dili. Behind them, thatched shacks are backed by a dirt road, where we hop into the only vehicles around – a pair of tuktuks that take us to modest overnight homestays. While there’s plenty to do here – you can trek up Mount Manukoko, shop for handicrafts at the Boneca de Ataúro co-op (bonecadeatauro.com) or go diving – sipping a coconut juice between ocean swims is just as valuable. This place forces you to embrace life’s simplest pleasures: going to bed early because the electricity switches off at 10pm and slowing down because ferries to the mainland only come three days a week. And while crocodiles are sometimes seen around Dili, Ataúro’s 28-degree seas are croc-free and part of the Western Pacific’s Coral Triangle, earth’s most biodiverse waters. (A 2016 study by Conservation International found Ataúro has 643 species of fish, some of them new to science.) Snorkelling off Beloi, I glide over rainbow-hued shoals, giant clams and ornate coral gardens. Madeira chuckles at my awe. “Everyone needs to snorkel Ataúro’s reefs,” he says. With nothing but blue sky above and marine wilderness below, it feels like I have South-East Asia’s newest, friendliest playground all to myself. For now, at least.

Tasmania’s countryside is even more breathtaking in a Ferrari.

98 Story by Rob McFarland

“Wanna swap?” shouts a guy in a delivery van. Before I can answer, the lights change and he roars away in a cloud of diesel smoke. Grinning kids wave furiously from passing vehicles, grown men nod approvingly and people of all ages scramble for their phones to take photos and videos. It turns out few people are immune to the allure of a supercar. Drive one around Sydney or Melbourne and you’ll turn a few heads. Be part of a six-strong convoy roaring through rural Tasmania and you will literally stop traffic. Prancing Horse (prancinghorse. com.au) has been offering a taste of the motoring high life to car enthusiasts for more than 15 years. Co-founder Matt Thio says the company started as a “silly idea” in 2007 but it’s since blossomed into a range of driving getaways in spectacularly scenic Australian locales. There are Prancing Horse drives in NSW’s Southern Highlands and

through the vineyards of the Adelaide Hills but this is the first Tassie itinerary (scheduled again for February 2024). At a welcome briefing in the Peppers Silo Hotel in Launceston, where we’ll spend two nights, Thio outlines the day’s plan. We’ll head west, along a 260-kilometre loop that will take us into the foothills of the Great Western Tiers, a dramatic range of dolerite mountains at the northern boundary of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. Throughout the day, our group of 12 (five couples and two friends) gets behind the wheel in a wish list of exotic cars, including Ferrari’s mid-engined F8 Tributo, a McLaren 570S, Aston Martin’s DB11 V12 and the Lamborghini Huracán EVO. During a car swap in the small farming town of Sheffield, two young boys sprint over, wide-eyed with astonishment. “Check out the Lambo!” squeals one. “Whoa,” says the other, shaking his head in disbelief. “This is literally my dream come true.” After descending towards the island’s north coast, we stop for lunch at Ghost Rock Wines (ghostrock.com. au) in Northdown, for three courses that include smoked salmon rillettes, slow-cooked lamb shoulder and warm Persian love cake (but sadly no wine). There are lively discussions about each car’s pros and cons. The Ferrari soon emerges as a favourite. “It’s just the whole package,” raves one guest. “Sexy, sophisticated and super-quick.” Each car has its own personality and unique soundtrack, from the sonorous baritone of the Aston’s V12 to the attack-dog bark of the Lamborghini. Most are fabulously impractical, with intricate controls and tiny back seats, but without exception they are all exhilaratingly fast. Clambering out of the Lamborghini, one driver describes it as like “riding an angry dragon”. Leading us into the winding country roads of the Meander Valley, Thio uses a two-way radio to provide regular updates on the route and any upcoming hazards. Our only job is to give each other plenty of space and enjoy the ride.

Presented by SHLEEP

LD’S GREA

TES

R WO

T SLEE

The ultimate rest and relaxation Switch off at a luxury hotel with an AI-powered bed or invest in the softest merino bed linen and accessories to create your own haven. Whether on holidays or at home, a good night’s sleep is within reach.

AT H O M E

Curl up in comfort Made with the finest Australian merino wool, Shleep’s luxurious ShleepHaloTM fabric supports your wellbeing. Shleep’s bedding range includes sheets and pillowslips (below, in Arabian Nightsky), duvet covers and naturally weighted blankets – all thermal-regulating, moisturewicking and hypoallergenic, for a great night’s rest and an even better morning.

O N H O L I D AY

Find rest in the city that never sleeps Park Hyatt New York’s Bryte Restorative Sleep Suites (qantas.com/hotels/parkhyattnewyork) are dedicated to the art of relaxation. The king-sized Restorative Bed by Bryte is the hero in these 84-square-metre rooms and uses AI to adjust to the sleeper’s body temperature and position, relieving pressure points and controlling firmness. The bed includes multi-sensory relaxation aids such as peaceful audio and soothing movements within the mattress. To completely lull you to sleep, there’s a signature “Sleep” oil blend wafting from a diffuser, eye masks and calming bedside reading material.

Earn 3 Qantas Points per $1 spent or use your points to shop Shleep at qantas.com/marketplace

IN FLIGHT

Switch off

Pack a luxurious Shleep Fleece Sleep Mask (right) in your carry-on. It’s light, cushioned and breathable so you can drift off easily on your next flight.

Ancient trees, mythical monkeys and the seafaring 100

side of Japan. Rachael Rowe

Story by Catherine Marshall

Japan’s oldest tree, Jōmon Sugi, looms above the temperate forest swaddling Yakushima Island (left), a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site off the southern tip of Kyushu (above). Far below, sika deer glide through the understorey and macaques catapult wildly from tree to tree. “People said maybe the deer came to the island from the mainland and the monkey hitched a ride on its back,” says local guide Nao Takada.

Such seafaring pursuits are common in this archipelagic country and the symbiosis between land and sea unfolds on Ponant’s (ponant.com) new eight-day Kyushu’s Secret Islands and Ancestral Heritage expedition, which sails from Kashogima to the south-western islands then to South Korea’s Jeju before arriving in Fukuoka. Guests will discover that deer and monkeys weren’t the only creatures to find refuge offshore. Persecuted Christians settled on Amakusa Island during the Edo era and their church’s spire still rises above the roofline of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sakitsu

village, while Iki, where turquoise bays lap a vertiginous isle garlanded with shrines, became a crucible for Shintoism. But pious devotion, arduous swims and hasty escapes aren’t required of the modern voyager. The 184-berth Le Jacques-Cartier weaves an elegant path through this unfamiliar territory, serving French cuisine in two restaurants, pampering travellers in the spa and ferrying them about in Zodiacs. The vessel’s rooms and suites feature a balcony or terrace but most enchanting of all is the lounge, where submerged windows offer a glimpse into the offshore underworld.

102

As told to Bek Day

“I moved up from Sydney and purchased a 100-year-old home in Lismore 23 years ago then found out years later that my father had actually grown up here – he left when he was 19. I always wonder if that’s why Lismore [Bundjulung Country] just felt like coming home. It’s a place where people care. In hard times, like the floods, everyone pulls together and strangers turn up at your door with food, with mops and buckets. That’s why

Denise Alison (above); Lismore’s historic former post office (top)

I started photographing locals and telling their stories (@humansoflismore). We’re a town packed with artists and musos whose work spills over into the streets. There are buskers everywhere and we have a laneway that runs behind the CBD called The Back Alley Gallery (thebackalleygallery.com), filled with street art from local and internationally known artists. Everything is coming back to life and a lot of the pubs have opened up again, including the Hotel Metropole (hotelmetropole.com.au), which has fantastic food. The Sherwood Hotel (thesherwoodhotel.com.au) is all schmick and new, with a huge outdoor dining area. The produce here is incredible and there are organic farmers’ markets all over the place. We’re so excited for the car-boot markets to come back; they’re just magic. Henry’s Bakery Cafe (henrysbakery. com.au) is a must-visit – he’s been here for 40 years. Vanessa, who runs The Garden Plate (@thegardenplatecafe), has worked her bum off – she’s been through so many floods and she’s just opened up again with this stunning little back garden. There’s a new wine bar called The Levee (theleveebar.com.au) and Sarah down at The Book Warehouse (thebwh.com) – the best bookshop in the Northern Rivers, in my opinion – will find you any book you want, even if they don’t stock it. There’s incredible scenery at our doorstep, too. Just 25 minutes north you have Whian Whian Falls, with crystalclear swimming holes and old-growth rainforest. Drive 30 minutes east of Lismore and you’re at Ballina, watching the whales from the breakwater. There’s been struggle here [after the floods last year] but my mum had this saying: ‘If you don’t have a lot of money, you need to have a good personality.’ Even after all it’s been through, Lismore certainly does have a great personality.”

Alexander Cimbal

Denise Alison knows there’s not much that can keep her beloved Lismore down.

Presented by The KPMG Australia Sail Grand Prix

SailGP racing in Sydney Harbour

The race is on in Sydney The city’s most thrilling sporting event is back in 2024.

Picture this: 10 international teams in identical highperformance F50 catamarans carving through some of the most beautiful waterways in the world at speeds of up to 100km/h. State-of-the-art technology and the supreme skills of the athletes will be on show in the close-to-shore action of the KPMG Australia Sail Grand Prix. Devised by tech billionaire Larry Ellison and champion yachtsman Russell Coutts in 2018, the international contest on 24 and 25 February 2024 is the hottest ticket in Sydney. The Australia team are the reigning series champs and are currently at the top of this season’s leaderboard. But after falling short to France in 2023, Australia team driver and CEO Tom Slingsby is keen to win in Sydney. “We’re very focused on a victory at home,” he says. Having grown up in Sydney, the harbour is his favourite stop on the circuit. “We could hear the roars from the home crowds on Shark Island’s Genesis Island and along the harbour at the Australia SailGP last year.” Wherever you choose to watch, the Harbour City will be a sparkling backdrop to all the action.

To book your tickets for the KPMG Australia Sail Grand Prix, visit sailgp.com

Be at the centre of the action. Genesis Island on Shark Island comes alive as the best vantage point on land, with waterfront seats, live racing commentary, gourmet food and an open bar. “It’s located right in the centre of our racecourse so you see the boats ripping around you,” says Slingsby. Tickets include boat transfers from the SailGP Village in Barangaroo. Get behind the sails. Go on a Team Base Tour of the “pit lane garages”, where visitors have a rare chance to see the teams and their wing-sailed foiling boats up close. The SailGP Village is the pre- and post-racing hub with F50 displays, Q&As with SailGP athletes, the SailGP fan shop and box office. Watch from the water. Hop aboard an Official Spectator Boat or a SailGP Adrenaline Yacht, or purchase a flag and you can view the race from your own boat inside the public exclusion zone.

Italians do it best on the Venetian lagoon.

104

The Venissa estate, restaurant and winery on Mazzorbo Island (opposite); chef Chiara Pavan in the estate’s garden

105

106

Story by Hannah-Rose Yee Photography by Letizia Cigliutti and Fabrizio Cicconi

Ristorante Venissa (venissa.it), on the island of Mazzorbo, about an hour’s boat ride from Venice, opens at 7.30pm. If you’re staying in one of Venissa Resort’s 13 guestrooms on neighbouring Burano Island, you can only make your approach over a single bridge, at golden hour, as an orange sun sinks into the lagoon. This can’t be a coincidence. The setting is cinematic all the time but as the sun sets in August, the whole vista is Oscarworthy. I’m so distracted – by the way the light reflects on the water, the crowds in Burano’s colourful streets, the silhouette of Venissa’s tower – that I’m 15 minutes late for my reservation. Nobody seems surprised. I get the sense that it happens often. “Welcome,” says chef Chiara Pavan who, with her partner, Francesco Brutto, has run the restaurant for six years. I’m ushered to the chef’s table at the bar alongside another solo diner. It’s the best seat in the house, with an unparalleled view of the kitchen, where a band of cooks in slate-hued linen prepare the 10-course dègustation menu. My fellow patrons are fabulous Italian couples wearing tans courtesy of spending most of August on holiday. They are as relaxed as the chefs, who move with easy confidence around the casual dining room. “We only cook with invasive species,” says Brutto, as he presents a dish of flash-fried rapana, a Japanese sea snail that hitched a ride to Venice in the 1980s. Venissa received a Michelin Green Star in 2022 in recognition of its sustainable dishes, which rarely feature meat and only include seafood that threatens the lagoon ecosystem. The rapana is dressed with what Brutto calls a “lagoon curry” and comes with a flaky croissant, almost rotilike in its consistency and baked inside the rapana shell, to mop up the sauce. Dessert is a rich zucchini and basil soufflé with a herby bay leaf ice-cream that tastes just like a garden and, like much of the meal – from the shiso pesto amuse bouche to the entrée of chilled cucumber soup – is green. Golden hour is well and truly over when I walk back to my accommodation, called Casa Burano. It’s only a 10-minute stroll but I am very full. I move slowly and savour the solitude. The paintbox streets are empty and it feels as though the island is in a trance. Next morning I head back to Mazzorbo with an Italian couple who are staying on the floor below me. After an espresso in our shared kitchen, we cross the bridge for a buffet breakfast of fruit, pastries and croque monsieurs. I receive a text that Matteo Bisol, son of Venissa’s owner and the man in charge of the restaurant’s vineyards, has come to collect me for a tour by boat. Bisol is charming (and also very tanned). As we zip along the lagoon, he recounts the history of Venetian viticulture. Though the Veneto region is famous for wine – prosecco is said to have originated here – the floods of 1966 were believed to have wiped out the lagoon vineyards for good. That was until 2001, when Bisol’s father, Gianluca, visited the island of Torcello, a 40-minute boat ride from the city. Peeking over the fence of the ancient cathedral, he spied a few spindly vines of the native dorona grape. The discovery set off the entire Venissa venture, which now spans Casa Burano and the five-room Wine Resort on Mazzorbo, the restaurant, the more casual Osteria Contemporanea, a wine bar and five vineyards planted across

three islands. “We make wine in Venice because it’s part of the history of the city and to keep the tradition alive,” says Matteo. Our first stop is Isola Santa Cristina (veniceprivateisland. com), a private island retreat where the Bisol family has resurrected three hectares of merlot grapes. We try one but it’s too dry; harvest will take place in a few weeks when the grapes have reached maximum sweetness. Next is Torcello, where we take in the cathedral’s crown jewel, a Tintoretto of the Virgin Mother. “Not one of the nicest Tintorettos,” says Matteo. “Still, it’s not bad. It’s like owning one of the worst Ferraris. It’s still a Ferrari.” The other crown jewel, those first resilient dorona vines, are growing strong in the shadow of the church, with another hectare nearby. As we amble, Matteo explains the recultivation process, which began in 2007 with extensive location scouting. “Here, you can plant a vineyard” – he points out a row of samphire along the canal – “and here you can’t.” It’s only a matter of metres and is a question of how much salt rises from the water into the sandy soil. Too much destroys the grapes; enough gives Venissa wines their distinctive minerality. I have my first taste at the osteria over a plate of cicchetti – whipped salted cod, crumbed sardines – and an exquisite dish of cold spaghetti with red prawns in a silky tomato sauce. First, a Venusa Dorona, juicy and fresh, with low filtration and sulfites. Next is the magnificent Venissa Bianco, which arrives in a hand-blown Murano glass bottle affixed with Venetian gold leaf. The wine is suitably golden in hue, deep and textural with a nose full of apricot and almonds. It’s like nothing I’ve ever tasted before. For a moment, I’m lost for words but then it hits me: it’s Burano’s golden hour, distilled in a glass.

Osteria Contemporanea (opposite); a Suite Room at Venissa Wine Resort (above)

107

Presented by Avis

Gladstone

Queensland’s best under-theradar road trip With sleepy seaside villages, whitesand beaches and national parks brimming with wildlife, the sunny 120-kilometre road stretching from Gladstone to Agnes Water is Queensland’s best-kept secret. And after 34 years as director of Avis Gladstone, Richie Hyne knows the area like the back of his hand. “Agnes Water is a hidden gem with stunning coastal trails and lots of hiking spots,” he says. “Hire a car to explore the area. We’ll meet you at your flight and you can be in your vehicle within five minutes.” Richie shares his local secrets so you can discover them before everyone else does.

Agnes Water

Miriam Vale

Visit quaint Miriam Vale

“Just one street off the highway about 45 minutes south of Gladstone and with a population of about 600 people, Miriam Vale has beautiful old shops, cafés and a great pub,” says Hyne. “Stop into The Big Crab – you’ll spot the two-metre crab on the roof – for amazing mud-crab sandwiches then duck into Cool Beans Cafe & Bakehouse to grab coffee and meat pies for the road.”

Wander in Reedy Creek Reserve

Three kilometres south of Agnes Water, Reedy Creek Reserve (left) is a 475-hectare nature reserve, home to a short but spectacular walk through endangered Queensland paperbarks and fan palm swamps. “The Paperbark Trail

deserted beaches, rock pools and lookouts. The walk takes about an hour and 40 minutes – passing Springs Beach, Rocky Point and Honeymoon Bay – but could take a lot longer depending on how many swims you take. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins and nesting turtles.

Eat freshly caught seafood at the Rusty Pelican

“At the marina in the tiny town of Seventeen Seventy (population 125), you’ll find the Rusty Pelican. It serves the best fish and chips you’ll get anywhere; it’s mostly reef fish but it depends on the catch of the day. Sunset is the best time to go for an early dinner – grab an icy-cold beer and settle in for the show.” is only 400 metres long but it’s the most beautiful stroll along boardwalks, stepping stones and bridges. You might see rare species like grey goshawks, northern brown bandicoots and little red flying foxes.”

Tourism and Events Queensland

Hike and swim the Red Rock Trail

“Across the road from Reedy Creek Reserve is the Red Rock Trail. Drive about 200 metres down a dirt road to Springs Beach where there’s a sign to the start of the walk.” The Red Rock Trail meanders 7.7 kilometres along

Rest your head at Alinghi

“A weekend escape isn’t complete without a stay at Alinghi (above), which is located six kilometres south of Agnes Water (main image). Alinghi features concrete suspended ceilings and walls – it’s an amazing house.” Designed by award-winning architect James Grose with passive design principles in mind, the property overlooks Honeymoon Bay and is surrounded by hectares of bushland. It sleeps eight, with a separate residence available upon request.

Your holidays have never felt smoother When you choose Avis for your car rental, you can rest assured that your road trip will begin with ease. Avis is committed to making your car rental experience seamless, thanks to services in Australia, such as Avis Preferred and Avis PreCheck, and innovative technology like Avis PhotoProofed and the awardwinning Avis App.

LIMITED TIME OFFER Earn double Qantas Points – that’s 8 points per $1 spent – when you book a car from any Avis Australia or New Zealand location before 31 December 2023, for travel in 2024.* Visit qantas.com/avis

*You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn Qantas Points. 4 Qantas Points will be earned per $1 spent on time and kilometre charges with Avis within Australia. To be eligible for the double Qantas Points offer, you must make a new eligible booking between 12.01am AEST 1 December 2023 and 11.59pm AEDT 31 December 2023 for travel between 01 January and 31 December 2024, from all Avis Australia and Avis New Zealand locations. Offer valid for new Avis car rentals booked via Avis.com.au or qantas.com.au/cars. During the promotional period, and on qualifying rentals, members will earn 8 Qantas Points per A$1 spent on time and kilometre charges in Australia instead of the usual 4 Points; and a total of 1,400 Qantas Points per rental in New Zealand instead of the usual 700 points. This offer is not valid on GST, coverage or optional extras, package tour, government, travel industry, some corporate rates, excess kilometres nor other fees and charges. Coupon code MPAA021 must be included in the rental. Points will be credited up to eight weeks after car rental. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, coupon or promotion. Members must provide their Qantas Frequent Flyer membership number at the time of booking to earn Qantas Points. Offer is subject to car availability at the time of rental and the Avis Rental Agreement Terms and Conditions. Avis age, credit and driver requirements apply. For further details, please visit avis.com.au or qantas.com/cars or contact Avis.

Train travel but not as you know it. Africa as you’ve never seen it. 110

Story by Catherine Marshall

Africa’s breadth unspools alongside Rovos Rail’s Pride of Africa (rovos.com) as it weaves along a 4300-kilometre railway line that stitches together two oceans, four countries and boundless wilderness. Flutes are charged as the 72-guest luxury train pulls out of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, to start the 15-night Trail of Two Oceans journey to the Angolan port city of Lobito. The observation car – front-facing for the first part of the expedition – takes in a mercurial tapestry of baobab and raffia palm groves, thicketed ranges, wild escarpments and shimmering savannah. Halt for safaris in Africa’s largest protected game reserve, the Selous, and at Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, where the elephants conduct nocturnal raids on villagers’ mango orchards. You’ll be safely back onboard by then, feasting in the elegant dining car. Soak in the Royal Suites’ Victorian bathtub as the train forges through the Great Rift Valley and across the continental divide then drive via Lubumbashi in the Democratic Republic of Congo and stretch your legs on walking tours strung out across Angola. As the journey nears its end, lie back on your luxuriant bed and watch Africa’s western fringes roll by.

Presented by Hurtigruten Expeditions

Ice-cool cruising Paddle through glacier-carved fjords and spot polar wildlife in misty forests. Get front-row seats to all the action in Alaska and British Columbia when you join eco-light Hurtigruten Expeditions. Kayak among glaciers

Towering blue-ice glaciers that look like frozen waterfalls carve through Alaska’s Chugach Mountains, framing College Fjord. Disembark Hurtigruten’s hybrid electric-powered vessel MS Roald Amundsen to get closer to nature. “The kayaking is fantastic,” says Hurtigruten Expeditions’ managing director Damian Perry. “You can nearly kayak the whole way along the journey.” In College Fjord, guests can paddle into the snow-dusted inlet to get up close to the Ivy League glaciers (they were named for the alma maters of the 1899 expedition team). Keep an eye out for wildlife, too. “You could see brown bears with cubs or sea otters floating on their backs,” says Perry.

Explore untouched wilderness

Naturalist writer John Muir once described Misty Fjords – a pocket of Alaska about 35 kilometres east from Ketchikan – as one of the most beautiful spots he had ever laid eyes on. See for yourself on an expedition, weaving through the Tongass National Forest. “The Tongass is the largest national forest in America,” says Perry. “You’ll feel totally immersed in the wilderness – it’s completely untouched.” The dramatic 900-metre sea cliffs are part of a pristine environment, where mountain goats and moose rove verdant peaks, orcas bob through glass-like waters below and black bears catch Pacific salmon in the rivers.

Discover a blend of cultures

Sitka – a charming city in South-East Alaska – was home to the First Nations Tlingit people for 10,000 years before being occupied by Russia in 1804 then sold to America after the Crimean War. Now it’s a curious mix of all three cultures – from the mystical Haida and Tlingit totem poles in the Sitka National Historical Park to the Russian Orthodox Cathedral and Wild West-like flat-front buildings. “The itineraries are linked to the communities. Hurtigruten has local guides in each town, which mean you’ll see things that most other people wouldn’t.” Explore the sights on foot, trekking from the forest to the ocean, or take in epic views like the Sisters Mountains and Mount Edgecumbe volcano from back onboard.

Win a trip to Alaska and British Columbia A once-in-a-lifetime experience with Hurtigruten Expeditions could be yours when you enter the competition to win a trip on the Alaska and British Columbia Wilderness, Glaciers and Culture (southbound) expedition, valued at $9129 per person, plus flights. To enter, visit qantas.com/hurtigrutencruise The prize winner will receive the below for a maximum of two (2) people: a. Return Qantas economy flights for two (2) to Anchorage, Alaska, USA, from the prize winner’s nearest Australian capital city, up to the value of AU$10,000 b. 14-day Alaska and British Columbia Wilderness, Glaciers and Culture 2024 (Southbound) cruise, valued at AU$18,258

The 14-day Alaska and British Columbia Wilderness, Glaciers and Culture (southbound) trip departs May and June 2024. For more information, visit hxexpeditions.com/au

Entries open 01/12/2023 at 00:00 AEDT and close 31/12/2023 at 23:59 AEDT. Australian residents 18 years and over only. Winner drawn 17/12/2024 at 11:00 AEDT at Level 1/83 Bowman Street, Pyrmont NSW 2009. Winner’s name published 05/02/2024 on qantas.com/travelinsider. Unclaimed prizes drawn 01/02/2024 at Level 1/83 Bowman Street, Pyrmont NSW 2009. Unclaimed prize draw winners’ names published 21/02/2024 on qantas.com/travelinsider. Total prize pool valued at $28,258. Full terms and conditions available at qantas.com/hurtigrutencruise. NSW NTP/08110, SA T23/1704, ACT TP 23/02206

Story by Natalie Reilly and Alexis Buxton-Collins

Two stellar reasons to visit this small patch of Adelaide Hills wine country. 112

Nepenthe

“My philosophy of wine is to keep it light and bright,” says winemaker James Evers of Nepenthe (below; nepenthe.com.au) in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills. He’s sitting on the deck overlooking the vineyard, mopping up goat’s cheese with woodfired sourdough from a generous charcuterie board. “We do excellent, juicy pinot noir and shiraz, and the grüner veltliner is a big favourite. But all the wines have that rich complexity and acidity without the heaviness.” Looking around at the oyster sandstone, the polished timber floors and the floor-to-ceiling windows of the gallery behind him, Evers could just as easily be talking about the cellar door’s bright, light refurbishment, completed in May. Beyond the gallery, the Apex VIP room for special events and the barrel

113

Jessica Clark. Julian Cebo. Kelsey Zafiridis

room (which opens directly onto the lawn), the vines roll out in every direction. Afternoon sun dapples the scene and glints off a glass of zesty 2016 Apex Chardonnay – the vineyard’s best seller. There are masterclasses and tours or you can just sit back on one of the overstuffed lounge chairs and drink in the view.

Shaw + Smith

Some wines grow bolder and stronger as the price point creeps up but at Shaw + Smith (above; shawandsmith. com), the premium single vineyard range is all about restraint and balance. That elegant touch carries over to the cellar door, where broad windows maximise views over a tranquil, reedlined lake. While the winemakers use oak sparingly, the venue is filled with Mid-Century blackbutt furniture and matching polished floorboards. Look to the north and you’ll see the peaks of the Lenswood subregion, where

some of the highest vineyards in the Adelaide Hills are located. Shaw + Smith produces just five varietals (be sure to try the aromatic, finely structured pinot noir and the textural chardonnay) and the menu of small plates from the cold larder is similarly pared back. Try smoked ocean trout with pickled fennel and dill or deep red slivers of Wagyu bresaola draped with pickled baby figs and semi-hard cheese. Visit towards the end of summer and you can see vintage in full swing at the attached winery or wait until autumn and watch the sauvignon blanc vineyards out front change colours to reflect the gentle undulations of the land in stripes of crimson, green and gold.

Make it a weekend…

When you feel that warm drowsiness settle into your bones, Sequoia (below; sequoialodge.com.au) is just 15 minutes away from either winery. Step out onto the verandah of one of the 14 luxury suites for views over the valley below. The calming vista is available from almost every point on the property, including the hot spring pool that juts out from the mountain.

Presented by

A very Italian Christmas Family, food and big flavours are hallmarks of Italian culture. Here’s how to host a bountiful gathering, while earning Qantas Points for your next trip.

Deck the table with a traditional roast

“Porchetta (or pork) is a classic Italian dish and it makes for an incredible centrepiece with its golden, crisp crackling,” says Claire Brookman, Woolworths Food Director. “The Woolworths Cook Porchetta Roast With Garlic & Herb Seasoning takes the hard work out of preparing the dish. Simply pop it in the oven, then slice and serve with a Mango Champagne Vinaigrette Salad Kit. The bright freshness of the salad compliments the pork perfectly.”

Choose Qantas Points with Everyday Rewards, then shop and scan at Woolworths, BIG W, BWS and more to earn.

Give a European spin to your pavlova

Combine two classics to create a showstopping dessert. “Take inspiration from an Italian sweet, such as cannoli, and incorporate its flavour into the Woolworths Gold Pavlova Wreath with Daintree Vanilla – the crisp torched exterior and marshmallowy centre is the ideal base for this flavour fusion. In place of whipped cream, use fresh ricotta, sweetened with caster sugar and vanilla. Arrange slices of candied orange on top, then drizzle melted dark chocolate and finish with a scattering of chopped pistachios.”

2,000 Everyday Rewards points

Create an Italian cocktail

Celebrate peach season and spread Christmas “cheers” with a sip of summer. “The Bellini is an Italian classic cocktail made by mixing blitzed peaches (or their nectar) with chilled prosecco, like Brown Brothers Prosecco NV. It’s that simple.” Serve another Italian favourite, Aperol Spritz, with a slice of orange and a festive sprig of rosemary. Chin-chin! Items available for purchase at Woolworths and BWS.

1,000 Qantas Points

For more information, visit qantas.com/everydayrewards Must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer, Everyday Rewards member and have elected to earn Qantas Points. T&Cs apply, see qantas.com/everydayrewards for more details.

Take off sooner with your everyday shopping Choose to earn Qantas Points with Everyday Rewards and make this festive season even merrier.

Shop and scan at Woolworths, BIG W, BWS and more.

qantas.com/everydayrewards

You must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer member to earn Qantas Points. Everyday Rewards members who choose to convert their Everyday Rewards points to Qantas Points will be credited 1,000 Qantas Points to their nominated Qantas Frequent Flyer account when their Everyday Rewards points balance reaches 2,000. Terms and conditions apply.

Story by Bek Day

The Disneyland dream is hardwired into every child but if you’re looking for signs to make it come true for your crew in 2024, there are plenty. To commemorate 100 years of Disney, celebrated this October, the house of mouse has revealed a bunch of new attractions to usher in another century as The Happiest Place on Earth.

After a year-long renovation, Disneyland Resort’s Paradise Pier Hotel in California has been transformed into the Pixar Place Hotel (disney.com). A new Finding Nemo-inspired splash park features a 56-metre water slide and character-themed fire pits grace the pool deck, which offers spectacular views of the park’s nightly fireworks. Inside the gates, beloved Mickey’s Toontown has been reimagined with interactive play spaces and rides for younger kids, including Chip ’n’ Dale’s Gadget Coaster and Mickey & Minnie’s Runaway Railway.

In addition to the centenary celebrations, the past few years have seen the arrival of some major Disney fun for adults, too, including Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge, where you can fly the Millennium Falcon in an immersive sci-fi world. And the Avengers Campus, a sprawling 2.5-hectare attraction you’ll need an entire day to explore. If you haven’t already booked tickets, there are US$2 billion worth of projects still in the works, including an all-new Avatar adventure in collaboration with James Cameron himself.

The Happiest Place on Earth just got happier.

Tyler Nix

116

Love the Greek Islands?

Meet the Turkish isles.

118 Story by Dilvin Yasa

Bozcaada

Draped in emerald vineyards and sprinkled with ancient ruins and empty beaches, windswept Bozcaada embraces Aegean hedonism in its purest form. Here, a 35-minute ferry ride from Geyikli (itself just over five hours drive from Istanbul), morning walks are taken in orchards of figs, pomegranate and olives or on the cobblestone streets of the Greek Quarter, while long, raki-soaked lunches are enjoyed at seaside tavernas teeming with cats keen to steal your bounty of squid and mussels. After checking in at luxurious rural property K Bozcaada Revma (@kbozcaada), while away the days lazing on secluded stretches of sand, wandering the sites of the island’s Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman history (such as 15th-century Bozcaada Castle, above) and partaking in Bozcaada’s 3000-year-old tradition of viticulture via tastings at Corvus (Alaybey, 17680; +90 286 697 81 81) and Talay Șaraplık (talay1948.com) wineries.

Kekova

It’s a rare sailor who can resist dropping anchor in the turquoise Mediterranean sea surrounding Kekova. Located across from Kaleköy village in Antalya’s Demre district, on Türkiye’s southern coast, this tiny isle is home to an ancient Lycian settlement, partially submerged in the clear waters and visible from a kayak (swimming and diving in the area are not permitted). At lunch, the waterfront restaurants of Kaleköy and a tranquil dip beckon, while the kalamar tava (fried calamari) and the Turkish breakfast are a must at Simena Restaurant (simenapansiyon. com). Day tours by gulet (a traditional wooden sailing boat) from Kaş are frequent but why head back when you can spend the night at contemporary La Kumsal Hotel (lakumsal.com) and do it all again the next day.

Heybeliada

The 50-minute seagull-stalked ferry between Bostancı and Heybeliada – the second largest of Istanbul’s Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara – feels like time travel. How else can you explain escaping the crowds and gridlocked traffic to find yourself in a tranquil world of rambling Ottoman-era mansions, old-school beach clubs and, until recently, horse-drawn carriages in place of vehicles? Merit Halki Palace Hotel (@merithalkipalace), restored to its mid-1800s glory, gives a satisfying sense of place and is the ideal base from which to explore the island’s rich history. Visit the 11th-century Church of Panagia Kamariotissa – the last church built by the Byzantines – and Inönü Evi Müzesi (ismetinonu.org.tr), the former home of the second president of the Turkish Republic. Start the day by the seaside and linger over a traditional Turkish breakfast while taking in the water views at Değirmenburnu Restaurant (degirmenburnu.com) before settling on a daybed beneath the white and yellow umbrellas at Ada Beach Club (adabeachclub.com). And all of this is less than 20 clicks from Istanbul.

Presented by

This month on Marketplace A cult hair styler that creates salon-worthy locks without extreme heat and a coffee machine that will make each morning feel like a Roman holiday. Earn points, use points and shop it all at Qantas Marketplace. EARN 3 POINTS PER $1 SPENT

GOOD HAIR DAYS Dyson’s Airwrap multi-styler Complete Long is the ultimate double act, creating bouncy curls and sleek straight styles. Flyaways are tamed thanks to clever Coanda technology that leaves hair with a smoother, shinier finish. 30% OFF PTS WAS 173,810 PTS NOW 121,660 PTS OR $854

FRY HARD Make fast work of dinner with the 8.3-litre capacity Philips 7000 Series Connected Airfryer XXXL. It can make meals for up to seven people and comes with 22 cooking functions so you can fry, grill, slow cook and more – plus, it connects to the NutriU app for thousands of delicious recipes at your fingertips. 30% OFF PTS WAS 130,270 PTS NOW 91,180 PTS OR $636

HOME BARISTA Whip up café-style espresso or milky coffee favourites with the Smeg 50s Style Espresso Manual Coffee Machine. The vintage-inspired appliance has a built-in grinder, an adjustable steam wand to produce a rich, thick foam and is available in multiple colours. 30% OFF PTS WAS 225,920 PTS NOW 158,140 PTS OR $1,104

FLOWER POWER The latest homegrown hero from Leif, Flannel Flower Hand Wash 500ml has a fresh, green scent and contains extracts rich in antioxidants to protect and assist in skin recovery. 20% OFF PTS WAS 6,790 PTS NOW 5,430 PTS OR $31

Earn 3 Qantas Points per $1 spent – or use points and save cash – when you shop at qantas.com/marketplace Discount applies when using points only and ends 11:59pm (AEST) 31 December 2023 unless sold out prior. If you use Points Plus Pay, a lower discount may apply. For a list of selected products visit marketplace.qantas.com/au/exclusions. Qantas may extend or withdraw this offer at any time. Conditions apply.

Turns out the craic is everywhere you look in Cork.

120

Story by Hannah-Rose Yee

Andrei Nekrassov

“Pure Cork” is a phrase you’ll hear a lot if you travel to Ireland’s second-largest city, a friendly enclave in the southwestern corner of the country. Kerry, my guide on the Cork Culinary Tour (bonner-travel.com) through the historic English Market – founded in 1788 when the city was a key trading outpost and selling Irish produce to all and sundry – is pure Cork. She’s a tiny brunette, with almost comically green eyes and a wicked sense of humour, born and bred in the place she still calls home. For three hours, she marches our group along the easy, walkable city streets, taking us down alleys where you can almost smell the hops coming from the Beamish & Crawford brewery (try its Genuine Irish Stout from a pub the locals love, such as The Long Valley Bar; thelongvalleybar.ie). Inside the bustling covered market, which Kerry remembers coming to as a child (“when it was still blood and sawdust on the floors”), we work through trays of seeded soda bread and thick pork sausages from local providores. “Keep tucking in, lads!” she declares encouragingly. Like many natives – others you might have heard of include Graham Norton and Oppenheimer star Cillian Murphy – Kerry is immensely proud of her city, which straddles what is believed to be the second-deepest natural harbour in the world. (The deepest, by the way, is said to be Sydney Harbour.) Cork’s position on the water has made it a seafood mecca, as evidenced at restaurants such as The Glass Curtain (theglasscurtain.ie) in the centre of town, where an expertly seared West Cork monkfish with stewed fennel prompts one diner to rush over to the pass and demand to know when the chef will receive his Michelin star. Or at Goldie (goldie.ie), a cosy spot that proudly displays Aussie chef Josh Niland’s seafood bible, Take One Fish, in the window. Here, you’ll find sweet Rossmore oysters grown in a sheltered part of Cork

Harbour – “I’m biased but they’re the best in the world,” the chef, who looks remarkably like actor Paul Mescal, tells me – and an enormous colcannon, which is basically a large dish of mashed potato mixed with cabbage. Really, it’s all just a vehicle for butter. Speaking of butter, Cork is also proudly home to The Butter Museum (thebuttermuseum.com), housed in an original factory in the shadow of the Shandon Bells church tower. The whole place is devoted to the stuff, especially its fascinating role in the local economy, where once upon a time 3000 barrels of salty Cork butter were sent to the Americas each week. Cork’s rich history – buttered and otherwise – explains its role connecting Ireland with the world. Nearby Cobh, 20 minutes away by train, was the site where the Titanic set sail and today a popular museum (titanicexperience cobh.ie) pays homage to the event. In a lush garden at Nano Nagle Place (nanonagleplace.ie), a restored convent and museum precinct that’s 10 minutes by foot from the CBD, a guide named Agnes shares the moving story of a local woman who dedicated her life to educating the poor. It’s a peaceful, sacred space, even in the torrential downpour of a crisp, late September afternoon. Wandering through the garden, I spot a sign that reads “Kia orana” at the entrance to Good Day Deli (gooddaydeli.ie). It’s no mirage: the café is owned by Clare – another pure Cork character – and her husband, Kristin (aka Mack), who hails from the Cook Islands. Together they’ve crafted the ideal lunch spot, surrounded by greenery and serving dishes that highlight the simple, honest flavours of the region’s produce. A starter of whipped Macroom ricotta with broccoli followed by fresh fish tacos practically finishes me off. Clare stops for a chat when delivering each dish, nattering away about everything from Irish chocolate bars and local characters to her time living in Melbourne. It’s a perfect snapshot of what makes this place so special: friendly, generous hospitality and fantastic food. Pure Cork.

121

Discover your totem in

122

Story by Bek Day

“I never knew my totem was a wedgetailed eagle until three months before my grandfather died,” says Kruze Summers, a Ugarapul and Bidjara man and leader of the Yarriba Dreaming experience at Mt Barney Lodge (qantas. com/hotels/mtbarneylodge), less than two hours’ drive south-west of Brisbane. “But then a wedgie came and visited me. My grandfather and grandfathers before him were all wedge-tailed eagles. That was my sign that Grandad wasn’t going to be with me in human form any longer but he’s always with me as an eagle.”

Summers is explaining the concept of totems, something guests on his three-day immersive experience will learn about as they discover their own. Set against the backdrop of some of Queensland’s highest peaks, in the granophyre-columned cathedral of the Scenic Rim region, Yarriba Dreaming is an opportunity to soak in the ancient knowledge of Summers’ ancestors. He reveals the history of his Country throughout the 10-person retreat (Yarriba means “walking together”), which includes a visit to an ancient birthing waterhole and foraging for bush tucker along the banks of sparkling Mount Barney Creek. There’s a range of accommodation options at the lodge (the cosy, century-old

homestead is blissfully free from the distractions of wi-fi and screens) and relaxed meals are served either in the dining room or around a fire, where you might try beef stew simmered in a camp oven while damper still warm from the coals is passed around. Summers says he hopes the experience is one of healing and moving forward. “I’d like to think that people leave a little different than when they came. I’ve had people go away crying and I get it – it’s hard to put into words that feeling of connecting to Country. This sharing comes through my heart and it comes from my ancestors through my feet when I touch the ground. I think that’s what really touches people because they can feel it, too.”

Reuben Nutt

Queensland’s Scenic Rim.

A new home for your money. With ANZ Plus, you can join and bank securely from your phone. Available in Australia only.

Any advice is general and might not be right for you. T&Cs, FSG and TMD at anz.com.au/plus

Story by Faith Campbell

On the street just outside Antoinette (antoinettepainetbrioche.fr), a new-wave boulangerie, I tear into a soft brioche bun to reveal its neon-pink insides. “Ah, praline!” a tradie in high-vis calls out with a smile. “It is special, from Lyon!” He’s not wrong. Aux Trois Cochons (fb.com/sam. et.gil), in the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood, is the platonic ideal of a French bistro, where older gents sit at the small bar with beers and regulars remain long after their plates are cleared. Andouillette, the region’s coarse pork intestine sausage, may not sound great on paper but here, shaped into tender croquettes and fried, it’s a rich, allium-sweet delicacy and the plat du jour when I drop by. It’s said there are more than 1600 restaurants in Lyon, often referred to as France’s gastronomic capital, from casual falafel spots (Green Lab; greenlablyon.com) to Michelin-starred fine-diners (Restaurant Paul Bocuse; bocuse.fr) and bouchons – rustic Lyonnais eateries that serve the plats typiques. At Le Bouchon des Filles (lebouchondesfilles.fr), a cosy spot where rusty French is encouraged, I try the andouillette straight up, with young potatoes. I’d come back again for the quenelle (a steamed sort of dumpling made of meat or fish), cervelle de canut (a herby, creamed cheese spread served with toast) and fromage Saint-Marcellin (soft, salty and irresistible). Like the French capital, Lyon has its rivers (the Rhône and the Saône), its art museums (Musée des Beaux-Arts; mba-lyon.fr), its farmers’ markets and golden afternoon light. But Lyon isn’t the new Paris, because Paris will never get old. Think of it as another Paris, just smaller, slower and further south.

124

Eating is living in the city of Lyon.

Exclusive to Sydney On now

KANDINSKY Strategic sponsor Proudly supported by the NSW Government through the Create NSW Blockbusters Funding initiative

Exhibition organised by the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation

Vasily Kandinsky Blue mountain 1908–09 (detail), Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York, Solomon R. Guggenheim Founding Collection, by gift, photo courtesy Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation

Wellness meets technology meets chilling out in Thailand. 126

Story by Lee Tulloch

Downriver from Bangkok there’s a green island so tranquil it’s hard to believe it’s only a 60-minute drive from the airport. The towers of the business district rise in the background but the river is hidden from view behind mangroves, leafy palms and abundantly blooming frangipani trees. RAKxa (rakxawellness.com) on Bang Krachao is an oasis within an oasis, occupying 32 hectares of what is known as Bangkok’s “green lung”. In a country well known for its wellness offerings, the property, which opened in December 2020, has already carved out a unique niche – and not only because it’s easy to get there. It’s Thailand’s first fully integrated medical health retreat and operates in partnership with the VitaLife Scientific Wellness Center, part of Bangkok’s renowned

Bumrungrad International Hospital. This makes for a truly comprehensive guest experience, where the clinic’s medical innovation sits beside traditional and holistic therapies, drawing on more than 200 treatments, including Thai salt pot massage and sessions in a cryo sauna. I’m here for the minimum three nights (some guests stay a month or longer) and my first step after checking into my elegant garden villa, all soothing neutral tones and green views, is to consult with nurse coordinator Paan. She will supervise my program and it’s packed with activity: I’m to see four wellness professionals who will each prescribe four treatments that will address my specific health concerns. That’s 16 treatments in less than four days.

Working together, the therapists are aiming to solve some issues I have with my gut, which might have something to do with travelling in different time zones so often. My first consultation is with the overseeing medical doctor, Dr Suwanna Suwannaphong, who conducts a live blood analysis then sends me for an IV infusion of probiotics to kickstart the healing process. She also schedules a session in the space-age hyperbaric chamber, which helps the lungs gather extra oxygen to fight bacteria, stimulate stem cells and clear brain fog. I’m unsure of these contemporary medical treatments (I can’t see much of an immediate result from the hyperbaric chamber) and am more curious about the traditional therapies on offer. I meet with a Chinese medicine specialist for

acupuncture, where a bundle of smoking herbs is used to heat the needles as she manipulates them, and an Ayurvedic doctor who assesses my body type, or dosha, and advises on diet and breathwork to counter stress. This involves slowly breathing in one nostril and out the other whenever I’m feeling tense. In the medical gym, my physical condition is assessed on a variety of high-tech apparatus and the physiotherapists work with me on a Redcord machine, which is used in rehab units to detect and correct muscle weakness. I barely have time for relaxing by the beautiful gardenfringed swimming pool but I do have two sessions in the hydrothermal centre, which has a vitality pool, sauna and herbal steam room, all with spectacular views of Bangkok in the distance. In the end, I find the traditional Thai therapies most effective, especially the Ya-Pao detoxification massage, where the practitioner sets fire to a poultice of herbs on my stomach to increase blood flow and encourage the circulation of my lymphatic system. Far from alarming, it’s very comforting. All the doctors share information with each other and with chef-nutritionist Ban-Bansani Nawisamphan, who is a sensationally talented cook. Three-course meals are leisurely and alcohol-free. I’m plied with different hot breads and kombucha cocktails as well as nutritious and flavourful dishes such as scallops with glass noodles or spicy duck with black rice. There is always a fabulous dessert, like coconut parfait in a chocolate shell or deconstructed apple crumble with apple and celery sorbet. I certainly don’t starve. In the teahouse the nutritionists create special brews, available whenever I want to drop by. Massages are integral in my program and over four days I have several different kinds, including deep tissue and a treatment with “angel stones” or crystals. It is possible, I discover, to have too many massages. I’m sceptical about the long-term effects of visiting wellness retreats but the experts at RAKxa take my health seriously and Paan follows up a few weeks later to see how I’m going. I notice tangible results to my gut health and the way I handle stress. And I know RAKxa is not too far away if I ever feel I need a reset.

127

A chopper flight to a whisky bar high in New Zealand’s Southern Alps?

Story by Ben Mack

Whisky tasting is often an elevated experience but this is another level entirely. The dry alpine air is so crisp you can practically bite into it like an apple. The 360-degree views would be breathtaking even if you weren’t taking them in from more than two kilometres of elevation: snow-capped peaks all around, blue ribbons of glacial meltwater weaving through the terrain below. Getting to The Bad Decision – what might be the world’s highest whisky bar – is half the fun. Mackenzie Helicopters (mackenziehelicopters.com) takes punters up year-round, setting off from near the sapphire waters of Lake Tekapo, almost three hours south-west of Christchurch. The flight soars above windswept tussock grass, past Aoraki/ Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain, and deep into the glaciercovered Southern Alps. When you get there, sip drams that range from classic single malt Scotch, such as 12-year-old Glenmorangie and 25-year-old Glenfarclas, to Japanese whiskies, including The Matsui, Suntory and Yamazaki. Snacks are sourced closer to home and include Mount Cook salmon, local cheeses, merino lamb and venison. If drinking in all that rarefied air gives you itchy feet, practise your swing hitting eco-friendly golf balls out into the white.

129

Cheers to that.

Presented by

ASK A LOCAL

Osaka Architect Luke Hayward splits his time between Australia and Osaka, where he runs architecture and design studio Atelier Luke. He answers readers’ questions about his second home.

Where should we base ourselves?

Shinsaibashi has cool neighbourhoods and great restaurants, bars and nightlife. Amerikamura is popular with younger people and expats while Hommachi, north of Shinsaibashi, is a bit quieter with lovely Airbnbs and boutique hotels.

We’ll be with kids – what’s good for families?

Our kids love seeing the whale sharks at Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (kaiyukan.com) and visiting Osaka Science Museum (sci-museum.jp) on Nakanoshima, an island in the middle of the city. You should also visit the Cupnoodles Museum

(cupnoodles-museum.jp). It’s dedicated to the history and culture of instant ramen noodles and the highlight is making your own packet of instant noodles.

Osaka is the food capital of Japan. Where should we eat?

We take everyone to Kushinobo (1 Chome-5-6 Nanba, Chuo Ward) in Namba for kushikatsu, deep-fried panko-crumbed skewers. We love Tetsu (2-chome-7-27 Nipponbashi Chuo-ku) for oden, where things like tofu and daikon radish are cooked in broth. It’s perfect with Japanese mustard and a beer. Takoyaki (fried octopus balls, left) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) are Osaka specialties. Get them from a street stall – you can’t go wrong.

Where are the best shops?

In Umeda, the CBD district, Hanshin (1 Chome-13-13 Umeda, Kita Ward) and Hankyu (8-7 Kakudacho, Kita Ward) department stores are lovely, high-end experiences. In Temmabashi, there’s a traditional shotengai (3 Chome Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward), a covered shopping arcade of specialty stores and restaurants – they’re becoming rarer in Japan and this one is the longest in the country.

Pay like a local with Qantas Travel Money Before taking off, load Japanese Yen directly onto your Qantas Travel Money card. You can then shop, dine and pay like a local, plus earn 1.5 Qantas Points for every AU$1 spent in foreign currency.1

Can we combine a visit to Osaka with a ski trip?

If you want a daytrip, take a 1.5-hour bus ride to Biwako, a massive inland lake north of Osaka. Around it is a mountain range and a tiny little ski field. It’s great.

What’s a local tip you can share?

Go to Temmabashi Station and walk west to an area called Kitahama, along the river. There are beautiful gardens on Nakanoshima Island and the Tenmangu shrine is just to the north. Take a picnic – in springtime, you’ll see cherry blossoms; in summertime, there’s a festival with fireworks.

OSAKA CASTLE, OSAKA, JAPAN

Pay like a local with

Qantas Travel Money The only prepaid travel card that earns you 1.5 Qantas Points for every AU$1 of eligible spend in foreign currency.1 Buy 10 foreign currencies or load AUD to make purchases in over 100 foreign currencies.

Keep your money safe worldwide with access to 24/7 Mastercard® Global Support.2

Save on fees with no international transaction or currency conversion fees.3

Qantas Travel Money You must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer member to earn Qantas Points. A joining fee may apply. Membership and points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer program. See terms and conditions. Qantas Travel Money is a prepaid Mastercard payment facility available to Australian resident Qantas Frequent Flyer members aged 16+. Issuer: Heritage and People’s Choice Limited trading as Heritage Bank, ABN 11 087 651 125 (AFSL 244310). Consider the PDS and TMD available at qantastravelmoney.com. Mastercard and the circles design are registered trademarks of Mastercard International Incorporated. Conditions apply. 1 Membership and the earning and redemption of Qantas Points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer Terms and Conditions. Eligible purchases exclude, but is not limited to, money orders, traveller’s cheques, gambling chips or purchasing foreign currencies in cash. See qantasmoney.com/travel-money-card or contact Mastercard Qantas Travel Money Global Support for full details. Qantas Points are earned as follows: 1.5 Qantas Points per AU$1 equivalent spent in foreign currency and 1 Qantas Point per AU$4 spent in Australian dollars. Qantas Points are calculated using the Qantas Travel Money Daily Rate as defined in the PDS, and may vary daily. 2 Terms and conditions apply. Visit mastercard.com.au for details. 3 A foreign exchange rate will not apply on purchases when you load your Qantas Travel Money with one of 10 foreign currencies supported by the product and transact in that same currency. A foreign exchange rate will apply to foreign exchange transactions in accordance with clause 7 of Part B of the Qantas Travel Money PDS which can be found at qantasmoney.com/travel-money-card. Some merchants and ATM operators may charge their own fees and set their own limits.

LOUISE BOURGEOIS HAS THE DAY INVADED THE NIGHT OR HAS THE NIGHT INVADED THE DAY? ON NOW EXCLUSIVE TO SYDNEY Louise Bourgeois The Couple 2003, private collection, New York © The Easton Foundation/VAGA at ARS/Copyright Agency 2023, photo: Jonathan Leijonhufvud

Strategic sponsor

Major partners

Arts and Culture Report

133

Arts and Culture Report

Story by Bek Day and Noelle Faulkner

“How and why should cultural institutions engage with the construction of the metaverse?” is a key question in the 2021 Future Art Ecosystems report, a strategy document by Londonbased Serpentine Galleries that examines global challenges for the art world. “And for whose benefit?” These questions are currently being answered in Australia, as emerging trends across our shimmering arts and culture scene continue to evolve. The confluence of technology, AI and art is opening up avenues of participation, while renewed economic commitment from government and the private sector seeks to democratise access to – and the expression of – new forms of creativity.

134

Nature manufactured

Sam Leach Sam Leach’s paintings draw on the natural world and often feature animals, landscapes and, thanks to his recent forays into AI, surreal elements or placements in between. Leach (sullivanstrumpf.com), who won the 2010 Archibald and Wynne prizes, has incorporated AI into his practice for about six years (Above) Fruit Preservation (2023) by Sam Leach

and exhibited his first AI-assisted works in 2018 at the Tattersall’s Club Landscape Art Prize in Brisbane, followed by a solo show at Sydney’s Sullivan+Strumpf in 2020. He’d become intrigued by the work of neuroscientist Professor Mandyam (Srini) Srinivasan, who he’d painted a portrait of in 2014. “He was building these drones, which he trained using research on animal behaviour,” says Leach. “I got interested in the visuals he was producing.” Inspired, the Melbourne-based artist started to explore. “At that time, the first GANs [Generative Adversarial Networks – a deep-learning framework for generative AI] were emerging and able to produce reasonably decipherable images. Someone with extremely

limited programming skills, like myself, could get a handle on how to implement it. That’s what kicked it off. “I’d seen early programs trying to replicate hand-drawn numbers so I wanted to see if it could produce a version of my paintings.” The breakthrough moment came when the programs not only started producing images that were recognisably informed by elements of his work – animals, trees and other figures – but offering up concepts he had never considered. “I have a dataset of my paintings that I give to the algorithm. It learns the patterns and tries to produce a new work that would fit in.” There are three parts to the algorithm: “The first produces images, the second asks, ‘Is this a real painting Sam has produced?’ and decides. Then the two parts learn from each other. One is trying harder to produce a work that will fool ‘the critic’ part and the critic is getting better at determining which are real or fake.” After thousands of cycles, Leach started getting new images that he acknowledged could have been painted by him. “In the past, I’ve painted a lot of birds and the algorithm picks up on that and might produce hybrid birds or a bird that looks like it’s exploded into a tree. It keeps it interesting and surprising.” While the output is small-scale, resulting from code Leach programs himself, he attempts to reproduce the pixelated thumbnail created by the AI, painting new original artworks. “There’s a lot of reinterpretation that I do to shape it into a recognisable image. The algorithm does the cognitive labour, which frees me up to be more experimental in my painting.”

Alberto Zimmermann. Image courtesy of the artist and Sullivan+Strumpf

This is now The art scene’s next frontier? Embracing tech in all its forms.

Arts and Culture Report

Eugene Hyland

Encounters of the immersive kind Like a magician pulling an audience member onstage, the convergence of technological innovation and public appetite for multi-sensory experiences has melted the boundaries between artwork and observer. For Ewan McEoin, senior curator of contemporary art, design and architecture at Melbourne’s National Gallery of Victoria, this transformation from viewer to participant – achieved through tools such as VR, AI, haptics (the stimulation of touch and motion), scent and projection – is what defines the potential of “immersive art”. “As these big, multi-screen immersive environments become more understood as an art practice, it’s clear the audience appetite is there,” he says. The numbers prove his point: more than 8.5 million people have been ushered through the swirling, starry projections of Van Gogh Alive, by Melbourne-based Grande Experiences, in 100 cities globally. International arts collective TeamLab’s Tokyo digital exhibition space (currently exhibiting Planets, in which barefoot punters wander through psychedelic naturescapes that react to their presence) reportedly attracted more than two million visitors with its debut, Borderless (returning next month). The company claims these figures make it the most-visited singleartist museum in the world. McEoin predicts the future of immersive art will expand further into the metaverse. “I think we’re going to see a lot more open-ended experiences, based on the huge advances in games engines,” he says. “Rather than perhaps a 20-minute loop, which is about what you would see in some of these durational experiences [such as at Melbourne’s The Lume or Van Gogh Alive], you’ll be able to interact not only with infinite possibilities within a work, but with other participants as avatars as well. No two viewers will have the same experience.”

Muse in the machine

Agnieszka Pilat Working at the intersection of robotics, AI and fine art, Polish-born, American-based painter Agnieszka Pilat believes that robots are the celebrities of the future. Not only does she incorporate their images in her portraiture work – not unlike noblemen and women of the Renaissance – but she also trains the machines themselves to create art. “Historically, portraiture has always reflected power in society,” says Pilat. “Right now we’re in an interesting moment in history, which I think is hyper-narcissistic. Selfies are the number-one portrait. So as a portrait artist, I ask, ‘What is the new aristocracy?’” To Pilat, the answer is clear: the machine. At first, she began painting older, derelict machines but a visit to robotics company Boston Dynamics led her to paint a portrait of Spot, the company’s robotic canine. “I thought of Spot as the celebrity machine, kind of like a Marilyn Monroe of robotics. That’s what Andy Warhol would do.” Pilat has been an artist-inresidence at SpaceX in California and Boston Dynamics. Her work can be found in the personal collections of many Silicon Valley bigwigs and was even used to decorate the sets

of The Matrix Resurrections. And from this month at the National Gallery of Victoria’s Triennial, visitors will be able to witness three of Pilat’s Spot robots painting live. Pilat refers to the exhibition environment as a nursery or classroom, where the Spot robots, pre-programmed with 16 symbols, operate autonomously and progress in their work and practice over time. “These machines are awkward and so the drawings are very silly,” she says. “They’re like children.” Pilat enjoys the paradox of artistic robots – where the expectation might be that they create perfect, repetitive mass-produced works, the outcome is the opposite. “The thing about robots is that, yes, all they do is driven by AI but it’s always a hybrid of machine learning and programming.” For example, when Spot is walking up the steps, it uses AI to navigate but it combines that with pre-loaded data for navigating stairs. “In that sense, it’s a similar learning curve as children – some of what humans learn is hardwired and some is learned by experience. Robot art-making follows a similar path.” The “ghost in the machine”, says Pilat, is when the robot makes mistakes and we can’t trace the source. “That’s where art comes to life.” Agnieszka Pilat will be showing at the NGV Triennial, 3 December 2023 to 7 April 2024, ngv.vic.gov.au

Agnieszka Pilat with her robot dogs, Bonnie Spot and Basia Spot

135

Presented by QAGOMA

Enter a land far, far away Follow the trail of breadcrumbs and tumble down the rabbit hole… into Brisbane’s immersive new exhibition, filled with familiar stories and magical escapism. 2.

Step into an enchanted world that explores the classic archetypes of powerful witches, magical beasts, spirited princesses and deep, dark woods at the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) on Brisbane’s South Bank. Through paintings, animation, installation, film, costumes and more, the Fairy Tales exhibition (2 December 2023 to 28 April 2024) explores our enduring love of these classic stories. Curator Amanda Slack-Smith has divided the exhibition into three key chapters: Into the Woods, Through the Looking Glass and Ever After, which speak to fairy tales’ dark themes, magical escapism and notions of living happily ever after. “These stories shift and change over time but continue to remain relevant reflections of the world from the safety of fiction,” says Slack-Smith.

Into the Woods

The exhibition’s first chapter investigates archetypes and motifs from classic stories (think: magical animals, glass slippers and poison apples) and the way they have been reworked by artists throughout history. “The exhibition begins by inviting visitors to cross a threshold into the unknown, through the twisted woodlands of Brazilian artist Henrique Oliveira,” says Slack-Smith. “Titled Corupira, this large-scale sculptural work lures you down a series of corridors before revealing a canopy of woodland above.”

Through the Looking Glass

The second chapter is all about finding yourself through adventure and is filled with fantastical pieces, including puppets, toys, flying houses and giant twirling mushrooms, which will appeal to the inner child. “Visitors can activate Carsten Höller’s Flying Mushrooms, an interactive sculptural work with a series of mushrooms spinning above you, by pushing a bar.”

Ever After

Romance remains at the centre of the best-known fairy tales. This exhibition celebrates love in all its forms – familial, friendship, unrequited and romantic. You’ll find a stagecoach of crystallised rock sugar by Timothy Horn and a ballroom sequence of dresses designed by award-winning designer Eiko Ishioka for Mirror Mirror, a 2012 film based on Snow White. “A mastery of opulence and form, one of them is eight metres in circumference and 27 kilograms of silk.”

To learn more, visit qagoma.qld.gov.au

1. Del Kathryn Barton and Brendan Fletcher / The Nightingale and the Rose (still, detail) 2015 / Image courtesy: The artist and Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, Sydney 2. Promotional image from Mirror Mirror 2012 (detail) showing “Yellow dress with hood” costume / Director: Tarsem Singh © 2012 UV RML NL Assets LLC. / Photographer: Jan Thijs 3. Timothy Horn / Mother-load 2008 / Courtesy: The artist / Image courtesy: Jason Schmidt / New York Times / Photographer: Jason Schmidt

Arts and Culture Report

Art and commerce “My interest in art has always hinged on its ability to forge positive community change,” says Dr Harriet Fesq, founder of social innovation agency Rethinkable, which facilitates the Artist in Residence (A!R) program at Ace Hotel Sydney. The property hosts a different

First Nations artist each quarter – Mia Boe, a Brisbane artist with Butchulla and Burmese ancestry, is currently exhibiting her work – and is one of many examples of a nationwide shrinking of the chasm between the traditionally disparate worlds of art and business. APY Art Centre Collective, a group of Indigenous-owned and governed organisations that

Back to the future

Images courtesy the artist

Anna Pogossova Photographer and sculptor Anna Pogossova (annapogossova. com) is inspired by what she refers to as “culturally handed down imagery” – cultural and historical references that she collects and uses to reconstruct fantastical still-life images of objects, combining set-building and design techniques with sculpture and fine-art photography. The Sydney-based artist has created arresting pop-surreal imagery for magazines such as Vogue and brands including R.M. Williams, Mecca Cosmetica, Country Road, Sephora, Adobe and David Jones, while also exhibiting her work at Sydney gallery Jerico Contemporary and the city’s Powerhouse Museum, plus at last year’s Melbourne Design Week. “I will choose two disparate kinds of iconographies – things I might pick up, advertisements, films, references in pop culture,

work together on strategic collaborative projects, has successfully partnered with ceramics producer Mud Australia since 2020 on a range of designs, while kitchen giant Breville, alongside several First Nations artists in conjunction with the National Museum of Australia, last year released a range of appliances reimagined as art in a collaboration that has been 10 years in the making.

“Employees’ eyes light up when we work on these collaborations,” says Fesq, highlighting that workers are seeking out organisations with values that align with their own. “In the future, we’re going to see a further eroding of the boundaries between art forms, as well as more innovations weaving art into the fabric of the built environment. Art is impact.”

symbols or historical art – things that shouldn’t go together but kind of do. And I wonder why that is.” Through the merging of these reference points, Pogossova ponders the “invisible library of things” that exists within the human subconscious and how we draw upon our memory of images. It was this thought exercise that led her to start experimenting with AI programs. “I felt like AI was doing something similar.” Following a period of experimentation, first with DALL-E and then Midjourney, Pogossova found the AI programs started to open up new possibilities that would not only streamline her process but crystallise her thoughts and creative ideas. “I started inputting my works – a sculptural work with a photographic element, a photographic work and maybe a reference that I’d manually collected, let’s say, from a science fiction film – and had [the AI] generate some ideas,” she says. “The result unlocked something I always wanted: a method of visualising what was in my mind.” Pogossova found she could reverse-engineer a physical work that she had been thinking about but didn’t have the time or means to experiment with, which, as an emerging artist, proved invaluable. “Normally, it would take me weeks to mock up, realise and experiment with an idea in the studio but what the AI gives me is like a sketch or a study of what my brain is thinking. It’s a dream machine.” Untitled (Red Fuzzy Portal) (top) and Untitled Working Image (both 2023) by Anna Pogossova

137

Arts and Culture Report

Songs of tomorrow

Justin Shave and Charlton Hill 138

Heading up a team of producers, composers, data scientists and sonic technologists, Justin Shave (above left) and Charlton Hill (right) of Uncanny Valley (uncannyvalley.com.au) make music for some of the world’s biggest names. In 2020, their technology-led production studio based in Sydney won the first Eurovision-inspired AI Song Contest music prize. Most

Art for all The Labor government’s Sharing the National Collection initiative (part of a $286 million commitment over four years to revive Australia’s pandemicbattered arts and cultural scene) will see works from the National Gallery of Australia’s collection shared across regional and suburban areas,

recently the team produced Music of the Sails, a sonic livestream celebrating the Sydney Opera House’s 50th anniversary with music composed by machine learning via data generated by the building’s operations. “Musicians have been using software and computer systems for as long as we can remember,” says Hill. “It’s just that the tools of the trade have increased in their intelligence and their assistance. AI is somewhat of a natural progression and the way we’ve seen the industry evolve. Good music will always have that human element so for us, it’s just creativity on steroids.”

in a bid to reframe the arts as accessible in the lives of everyday Australians. A $174 million painting by Claude Monet is among the first of the pieces to hit the road, travelling to Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre in northern NSW, alongside three works by Olley herself. Elsewhere in the country, the explosion of regional art is on full display. The $33 million

Hill and Shave are constantly looking for new ways to incorporate machine learning and AI technology into their practice, with artist development always at the centre. In 2019, they collaborated with Google’s Creative Lab and emerging Australian artists on a project that used machine learning to create new songwriting tools. “We found that every artist was using the technology in different ways so it wasn’t a one-size-fits-all tool,” says Shave. Today, the studio is focused on finding fresh ways to work with the tech, including new software experimentations that can democratise the production process for many artists and help them develop and visualise their ideas or facilitate happy accidents in the studio. Take their MEMU, for example – a complex AI-powered engine that can offer real-time remixing and mash-ups using the artist’s own work, which has the potential to create new sounds and new revenue streams for artists. MEMU tracks the micro-contributions of each artist in each track, and how they are used, which can ensure artists are credited and remunerated. “Right now, there is not as much diversity in pop music, in terms of the nature of songs, chord progressions etcetera, as there should be,” says Hill. “So here comes technology to shake things up a bit. We welcome it for that reason, because if the art is turned around and suddenly we’re hearing sounds that we’ve never heard before… what an incredibly creative time to be alive.”

expansion of Bundanon – the 1000-hectare NSW South Coast sanctuary gifted to the Australian people by artist Arthur Boyd and his wife, Yvonne, in 1993 – has made it a destination unto itself. In Victoria, the final stage of the $140 million Geelong Arts Centre redevelopment was completed in August, making it Australia’s largest dedicated regional performing arts centre.

Meanwhile, there’s been an increase in the amount of free cultural activities on offer. The Sydney Opera House hosted a suite of gratis events in October to celebrate its 50th birthday; Tamworth Country Music Festival (19-28 January 2024) boasts a 70/30 split in favour of free versus ticketed events; and admission to the NGV’s Triennial, starting this month, is also free.

Presented by Perth Festival

Greentea Peng Performing at The Rechabite Jungle Book reimagined Image: Ambra Vernuccio

Sampa The Great Image: Imraan Christian

Here comes the sun With international music acts and evocative performances to light up your world, Australia’s longest-running arts festival is back. Inspired by the natural environment and local First Nations people, Perth Festival returns for another year of immersive arts and culture exhibitions from 9 February to 3 March 2024. Each year, the event takes its theme from the language of the Noongar people and in keeping with 2023’s Djinda (the cosmos), the festival’s artistic director, Iain Grandage, has returned to the sky for 2024’s inspiration. “I went back to a single star, the sun, Ngaangk,” says Grandage. “It’s not just a star but Mother Sun, a female entity, closely linked with Boodjar, the earth on which we stand. Inside that theme you get to think about sustainability, the way plants grow, your own matrilineal lineage – it’s a lovely way to think about the world.” The program spans theatre, dance, opera, film, literature, visual arts and contemporary, classical and First Nations music. So where to begin? Grandage shares his picks.

To explore the program, visit perthfestival.com.au

Jungle Book reimagined

Celebrated English choreographer Akram Khan has used Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book as a starting point for a dance work in which Mowgli is a climate refugee. “It’s a beautiful mix of contemporary and old Indian dance styles that Khan is so famous for.” Heath Ledger Theatre, Perth; 9 to 17 February; $69 to $89.

The Rechabite Takeover

Musicians from across the globe are taking over The Rechabite for an 18-night sonic exploration of hip-hop, folk, indie, funk, cosmic jazz and more. Headlining the program is local indie rock sensation Courtney Barnett and Australian hip-hop hero Flewnt, who is hosting a block party with a guest list of rap royalty. Don’t miss the harmonies of Norway’s Kings of Convenience or Zambia’s biggest rock band, WITCH. The Rechabite, Northbridge; 9 February to 3 March; tickets from $29.

Under the Same Sun

The festival culminates in a free closing weekend extravaganza, Under the Same Sun. “It’s about our shared humanity,” says Grandage. “I asked First Nations musicians who they’d like to work with from around the world. Rapper Flewnt is working with Sampa The Great, Clint Bracknell is collaborating with Angélique Kidjo, Jess Hitchcock is working with Paul Kelly and more.” Supreme Court Gardens, Perth; 2 March; free.

Holiday Your Way HOTELS

LUXURY HOLIDAYS

FLY & STAY

Explore over 500,000 hotel stays worldwide

Great value holiday packages with VIP inclusions

Combine your hotel + flights for exclusive savings

Book your next escape today Qantas Hotels & Holidays

Padma Resort Ubud, Bali

Edward Urrutia

THE LOOK

Paspaley Crescent Moon diamond earring enhancers / $8880 / paspaley.com

Creative Process

Christopher Zanko

Frequently unloved and overlooked, Australia’s classic suburban architecture is worth celebrating in the eyes of this artist.

142

Christopher Zanko in his home studio in Wollongong, south of Sydney

Story by Susan Horsburgh They used to be everywhere in the NSW coastal region of the Illawarra but mid-20th-century red-brick and fibro homes are disappearing. “You can’t really heritage-list asbestos houses,” says 31-year-old Wollongong-born artist Christopher Zanko. “Which is one reason why they’re not respected as much – because of the materials.” Knocked up quickly and cheaply to accommodate migrants and others who arrived after World War II to work in the local coal mines and steelworks, these suburban houses may have an assembly-line quality but their inhabitants found ways to make them their own. “In houses I’ve lived in, I’ve found cast-concrete pots and fruit trees – ghosts or relics of people who’ve lived there 50 years ago,” says the University of Wollongong creative arts graduate and one-time teenage graffiti artist. “When a bulldozer takes out one of these places, it takes that sense of history with it. When the built environment is changing so rapidly, it’s fuel for me wanting to create a sense of permanency.” Zanko has done that through his woodblock artworks. “Carving into the wood is similar to writing your name in cement.” He starts with a photograph (often snapped on neighbourhood walks with his four-year-old daughter, Lux), which captures a serendipitous moment – when the sun hits an awning and casts an appealing shadow, for instance. He draws on a timber board and chisels into it, before painting in the colours and rolling black all over the relief carving as if he’s going to make a print – but doesn’t. “These homes were mass-produced at the time,” says Zanko, whose influences include Japanese woodblock printmakers and Australian modernist Margaret Preston. “But the retention of the carved woodblock highlights their individuality.”

Kane Grosvenor

Awards: Sulman Prize finalist, 2022; Brett Whiteley Travelling Art Scholarship finalist, 2020; Wynne Prize finalist, 2019 What the critics say: “Zanko’s work intimates an understanding of broad social and economic forces and how these intersect with aesthetics. This deepens his work beyond the surface of façades and streetscapes.” – Brooke Boland, Artist Profile magazine

143

Design Notes

Smeg refrigerator

This household status symbol remains effortlessly cool.

Story by Susan Horsburgh

144

Think of the Smeg fridge as the 1950s pin-up of household appliances: all curvy good looks, a triumph of form over function. Now a style icon, it has its origins in Northern Italy, where Vittorio Bertazzoni founded Smalterie Metallurgiche Emiliane Guastalla in 1948. The enamel and metalworks company moved into appliances in 1955 and made a global splash with its Fab line of refrigerators in 1997. It has remained relevant – and its products coveted – thanks to collaborations with other big-name brands, perhaps most notably Dolce & Gabbana. Smeg teamed up with the Italian fashion house in 2016 to launch 100 limited-edition $52,000 fridges handpainted in Sicilian style and inspired by the island’s traditional donkey-drawn carts. Other editions include a Disney model emblazoned with Mickey Mouse, a stripy technicolour Paul Smith version and even the fabulously novel Smeg 500 bar fridge, which looks like the front end of a Fiat. But it’s the standard model you may have admired in your coolest mate’s kitchen. It comes in 15 colours as well as adorned with the Union Jack or the United States or Italian flags and its distinctive Mid-Century look has universal appeal. “Smeg has cornered the market in retro-looking fridges,” says Trish Khoury of Melbourne’s Grace Interior Designs. She believes the average Smeg fridge owner isn’t after state-of-the-art video displays or ice dispensers. “We’re drawn to the Smeg fridge because we connect that retro aesthetic with simpler, better times.”

Foundations

146

Kingo Houses, Helsingør, Denmark

This Danish project by Jørn Utzon showed architect Anna O’Gorman the importance of form, function and dignity in social housing.

As told to Rachel Lees

Kingo Houses is a housing development on the outskirts of the Danish city of Helsingør. It consists of 60 L-shaped houses. Each has its own courtyard with two wings – one for living and the other for sleeping. It’s predominantly brick, which offers thermal performance for the climate, is durable and good quality. The project was subsidised by the government to provide homes for low-income workers. It was designed by Jørn Utzon. He famously designed the Sydney Opera House, which is quite different in that it’s very formal. The similarity is that Utzon referenced nature in both projects. It was shells when he created the form of the Opera House and he described the arrangement of the Kingo Houses as “flowers on the branch of a cherry tree, each turning towards the sun”. There are four orientations of the houses. They all have a similar footprint but each one is adapted to suit different locations on the site. Utzon nominated the same number of bricks for each house so the costs would remain the same but the structure could change, depending on where it sat on the landscape and the location of the sun and breeze. They do well at balancing privacy and community. The homes are small and efficient but they’re grouped together in an organic way. Reducing the footprint of the structures allows the rest of the site to be communal space, such as parkland, a community hall and a lake. And there are ample walled courtyard gardens, acting as private space for individuals. These have small cutouts and windows so residents can still see the view and have opportunities for connection with neighbours.

Jan Sondergaard

The Kingo Houses first struck a chord with me at university. I thought they were clever and special because there’s nothing showy or over the top about them and they use ordinary bricks in a beautiful way. Lots of people think architecture is just for the wealthy but this showed how it could improve the everyday lives of all people. It’s done with sensitivity and care, which isn’t always the case with social housing. It doesn’t cost a lot more to make people feel included in the community and proud of their homes.

Since establishing her practice, AOG Architects (annaogorman.com), in 2016, Brisbane architect Anna O’Gorman has won several state and national awards. She teaches architectural design at The University of Queensland.

147

Packing List

Travel light Styling by Natalie Petrevski Photography by Edward Urrutia

1 2

148

4 5

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Polo Ralph Lauren shirt / $209 / ralphlauren.com.au Assembly Label pants / $120 / assemblylabel.com Moscot sunglasses / $600 / moscot.com Belancē blazer / $2500 / belance.com.au Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue 42-millimetre watch / $33,600 / hublot.com

Packing List Editor’s note: You could opt for the Veja Campo sneakers in white but where’s the fun in that? Their responsibly made, minimalist design is still a wardrobe staple when done in pale blue, especially paired with smooth summer pastels.

Veja sneakers / $240 / veja-store.com

149

Packing List

1 2

150

4 5

2. 3.

4. 5.

IWC Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 watch / $33,800 / iwc.com Maje jacket / $695 / maje.com.au Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée pearls of gold 18-carat yellowgold hoop earrings (large) / $13,300 / vancleefarpels.com Bianca Spender pants / $495 / biancaspender.com Essēn shoes / $339 / essenthelabel.com

Packing List Editor’s note: With its snake-shaped gold-plated brass handles – complete with red enamel eyes – the Bulgari Serpentine mini leather tote just might be the thing to help you shed 2023 and slide stylishly into the new year. Wear with golden tones and tailored shapes for a chic celebration.

Bulgari Serpentine mini tote / $4620 / bulgari.com

151

Spotlight On...

Festive jewels

From tokens of love to talismans with a tough backstory, meet the season’s standout gems.

152

Story by Natasha Inchley Photography by Edward Urrutia If you delve into the archives of a storied jewellery house, you’ll soon discover the inspiration comes from a mood – it might be a cultural cue or a link to the times but more often than not, the feeling is of love and joy. That kind of magical thinking has sparked a number of feel-good designs and iconic pieces over the years. “Jewellery is very romantic, intimate, like art when you really look at it,” says Nicolas Luchsinger, Asia Pacific president at Van Cleef & Arpels. The house is known for its precious talismans that point to symbols of luck and culture – in 1968, the maison launched its four-leaf clover motif Alhambra, which was worn by Princess Grace of Monaco and Elizabeth Taylor. More than 50 years later, Alhambra is still a signature piece.

That emotional pull is key to a luxury brand’s success – better yet if the house can harness a design that goes on to serve as a post-modern love note. Heavyweight chains, such as those in the Tiffany & Co. HardWear line-up, or even nails, in the case of Cartier’s Juste un Clou, have become significant symbols throughout the years, the designs interpreted in industrial ways as a kind of subversive counterpoint to the decorative orbs. Tough love, if you will. As for the connection between love and fine jewellery, Victoria Wirth Reynolds, chief gemologist and vice president of global merchandising at Tiffany & Co., says, “I’ve come to appreciate that beauty in nature is fleeting; you have it in your memory and then it’s gone. One of the things that makes a gemstone so precious is that it takes millions of years to create. It’s something you have forever.” Here is a round-up of our favourite treasures that serve as ultimate gifts for the holiday season.

(Clockwise from top) Jan Logan ring / $2350 / janlogan.com Hardy Brothers earrings / $1280 / hardybrothers.com.au Van Cleef & Arpels necklace / $11,200 / vancleefarpels.com Lucy Folk locket necklace / $3200 / lucyfolk.com

153

(Clockwise from top left) Ole Lynggaard pendant / $6750 / and chain / $1995 / olelynggaard.com Hermès ring / $17,685 / hermes.com Margot McKinney earrings / $27,500 / margotmckinney.com.au Paspaley bracelet / $5280 / paspaley.com

Spotlight On ...

154

(Clockwise from top left) Sophie Keegan necklace / $6459 / sophiekeegan.com Musson ring / $9500 / musson.com.au Jörg Heinz bangle / $6530 / from J Farren-Price, jfarrenprice.com.au Bulgari ring / $4340 / bulgari.com Tiffany & Co. earrings / $3200 / tiffany.com.au

155

(Clockwise from top left) Cartier bracelet / $5850 / cartier.com.au Chanel ring / $4700 / 1300 242 635 J Farren-Price necklace / $6465 / jfarrenprice.com.au Chopard earrings / $4740 / chopard.com Canturi bracelet / $2400 / canturi.com

How I Travel

Sarah-Jane Clarke

With a new jewellery collection under her artisanal belt, this designer’s love of travel and collecting melds work and play. Interview by Bek Day

156

The city you most frequent? I travel to Marrakech as often as I can. What keeps you coming back? It’s one of the most creatively inspiring places on the planet – the colours and textures, and seeing what the artisans are making. You never walk down the same street twice. In my experience, even when you’re trying to! I know, it’s an adventure – the smells and colours of the souks, the warmth of the people. And, of course, the food – I’m obsessed. Where do you always stay? The Riad Mena (riadmenaandbeyond.com) in the Medina. It feels like this beautiful private home. Fatima, the house cook, makes an incredible vegetarian tagine. And when you can lure yourself away from Fatima’s food? About 15 minutes from the Mena is the Beldi Country Club (far left; beldicountryclub.com). You’re greeted by about 1000 roses and these luxurious swimming pools – and they serve a beautiful lunch under the 100-year-old olive trees. Are you a planner or a last-minute packer? I used to throw it all in, in a mad jumble, but these days I pre-plan each outfit right down to shoes and accessories so I don’t waste precious time when I’m there. Genius. What’s your tip for keeping things organised? Packing cubes all the way. If you could only take one pair of shoes, they’d be… This is such a cruel question but I’d have to go with Kashura crochet ballet flats. So comfortable for exploring and they have a perfect Moroccan vibe. What don’t you leave home without? My SJC travel charm necklace (sarahjaneclarke.com) for good luck. Any self-care rituals in the air? It’s all about boosting my immune system so I take a few sachets of liposomal vitamin C. And on the ground? I go for a hammam. It’s a traditional Moroccan bathhouse where they slather you in black olive-based soap and scrub you until you’re soft as a baby. They’re all amazing but I particularly love the day spa at La Sultana (left; lasultanahotels.com) for a next-level luxurious experience.

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE 2023

Golden ticket

*Booking fees apply.

Transport someone you love to an imaginary Mexico with Cirque du Soleil’s latest show, LUZIA. To celebrate 25 years of Cirque du Soleil in Australia, the 2024-2025 production – featuring an onstage water curtain – will visit Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Brisbane and Sydney. Tickets start from $75* and are on sale now. To book, visit cirquedusoleil.com/LUZIA

Popping bottles Crafted from organically managed vineyards in Tasmania, Handpicked Wines Collection Tasmania Sparkling, $49.99, is a blend of 50 per cent pinot noir and 50 per cent chardonnay. With its delicate stone-fruit flavours and mousse bubbles, it’s perfect for Christmas and New Year’s celebrations. Cheers! Available now at handpickedwines.com.au

Festive spirit Add a splash of colour to your cocktails thanks to the delicate florals and berries in Australian Distilling Co.’s Rhapsody Ruby Gin, $92. Or opt for the flagship Australian Distilling Co. Gin, $82, a fresh take on the London dry-style gin with notes of coriander, cardamom and nutmeg. Available now at australiandistillingco.com.au

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE 2023

Cutting edge Chefs and chefs-in-the-making will look sharp as they transport their kit in Crumpler’s 2049, $170. Made in collaboration with Hugh Allen, executive chef at Melbourne’s Vue De Monde restaurant, the carrier securely holds up to nine knives and features large and small zip pockets and a removable shoulder strap.*

*Contents not included.

Available in orange, green and black. Visit crumpler.com/au

Everyday luxury Crafted from leather and with 100 per cent cotton twill lining, Oroton’s Dahlia Collectable Mini Day Bag in Brandy, $599, and Saddle Bag in Brandy, $749, are investment pieces that will last a lifetime. Available now at oroton.com

The friendships worth flying for

Feels like Christmas

Keeping your business safe is our priority. That’s why we have a range of products, services and security features to help keep you safe, including fraud prevention technology and secure banking.

Remember 3 simple steps:

Stop. Check. Reject.

Stop

Check

Reject

Does a call, email or text seem off? The best thing to do is stop. Take a breath. Legitimate organisations won’t put you under pressure to act instantly.

Ask someone you trust or contact the organisation the message claims to be from on a number you know to be legitimate.

If you’re unsure, hang up on the caller, delete the email, block the phone number. Change your password if you think it may have been compromised or the associated account breached.

CommBank Business Security As this advice has been prepared without considering your objectives, financial situation or needs, you should, before acting on this advice, consider its appropriateness to your circumstances. Commonwealth Bank of Australia ABN 48 123 123 124 AFSL and Australian credit licence 234945

Nick Hockley, CEO of Cricket Australia

THE BUSINESS

Mark Evans

163

Think Tank

Brave new world Venture capital deals for Australian startups have slowed. So what will it take to find the next unicorn? Story by Lucinda Schmidt

164

It has been a turbulent three years for Australia’s venture capitalists. While the frenzied cheque-writing of 2021 gave way to doom and gloom in 2022, more recently a cautious, measured approach has emerged. So what lies ahead in 2024? Have higher interest rates and rising inflation permanently altered Australia’s VC landscape? Samantha Wong, general partner at Blackbird Ventures, admits that the 0 per cent interest rate party is over and some startups are cutting staff or collapsing as funding gets tougher. But she – and others – are optimistic about the next 12 months, largely because of Australia’s now thriving tech startup ecosystem. “I’m confident this is not a return to the dark ages and many more Australian stars are being born right now,” she says. “When I started in venture in 2015, startup jobs were scarce. Today, Australia has 40 unicorns [startups valued at US$1 billion-plus], which each employ hundreds or thousands of Australians. Every time a company is successful on that scale, some of its employees become founders themselves. Based on this fact alone, hundreds of startups will be born in the coming years that have a chance at becoming the new [online graphic design tool] Canva and a high-water mark will be set for the next generation.”

HOW VENTURE CAPITAL WORKS

At its heart, venture capital is a simple proposition. Typically, VC firms raise money for a fund from outside investors (called limited partners or LPs) then invest in a portfolio of mainly tech-focused startups in exchange for a minority ownership stake and a board seat. At a very early stage, sometimes before product launch, this is called angel or seed investing. Further down the track, the startup may raise more funds in a series A round then series B and so on. It all boils down to risk versus reward. Investing early in a startup is risky but the returns can be enormous. For example, a 10 per cent stake bought on the basis of a company valuation of $10 million would eventually be worth $100 million if the startup becomes a unicorn. Later-stage investing is safer because the startup is established and likely to be expanding overseas – but that 10 per cent stake will cost more on the basis of a higher company valuation. To deliver those massive returns, VCs want their portfolio companies to scale quickly and develop globally so they offer connections, mentoring, help with hiring talent, advice on further fundraising and other support at every step of the way. Jackie Vullinghs, a partner at AirTree Ventures, recently helped a startup hire its first head of product from another company

165

Presented by Commonwealth Bank of Australia

Outsmarting swindlers Digital scammers are constantly devising new ways to steal from businesses. Combining technology with cyber-smart behaviour is your best defence. Along the chain of cybercrime, humans are the most vulnerable point. Absent-mindedly clicking a link can be all it takes to let a cybercriminal steal from you – payment scams cost Australians a record $3.1 billion in 2022. That figure is less surprising when you consider that a Commonwealth Bank of Australia (CBA) study showed that the average Australian is on the receiving end of more than 250 scam attempts a year. “Scammers are becoming more sophisticated, devious and harder to identify,” says James Roberts, General Manager of Group Fraud at CBA. Cybercriminals, often posing as a trusted person or organisation, try to gain access to people’s bank accounts via texts, emails, phone calls and even social media. But CBA has combined its technical muscle, customer insights and advanced algorithms to develop solutions that make it harder than ever for these scammers to succeed. Clever tech innovations such as NameCheck and CallerCheck are among CBA’s digital white knights. NameCheck indicates to customers going to pay a new account whether the name and account details they’ve entered on the CBA site appear to be correct. “Since launching this year, NameCheck has helped our customers prevent over 10,000 scam payments worth an estimated $38 million. In addition, NameCheck has helped customers identify and correct over $100 million of mistaken internet payments.”

CallerCheck is the bank’s in-app caller verification technology. If a fraudster is pretending to be a CBA bank employee or representative on the phone, they won’t be able to generate the required CBA security message. “Over the past year, CBA protected its customers from more than $228 million in scam attempts through our prevention and detection program.” While Australians are becoming much more scam-aware – eight in 10 people say they’re now confident in their ability to recognise scams – Roberts reminds us it pays to stay vigilant on all digital platforms, not just banking. “We all have more to do to strengthen defences across all sectors and protect Australians from the terrible financial and emotional impact these scammers have.”

For more information, visit commbank.com.au/business/security Commonwealth Bank of Australia ABN 48 123 123 124 AFSL 234945. This information is published solely for informational purposes. As this information has been prepared without considering your objectives, financial situation or needs, you should before acting on the information, consider its appropriateness to your circumstances.

Protect yourself and your business from scams Remember three simple steps: Stop Check Reject If you’re concerned you might have been scammed or are worried about the security of your accounts, call 13 22 21.

Think Tank

in AirTree’s portfolio that had scaled to thousands of employees and sold to a listed competitor. And Square Peg Capital partner James Tynan jumped in to help one of its companies after a core function was shut down by a United States telco. “Within an hour we had them connected with another founder who had experienced a similar issue and within 24 hours they were connected with the CEOs of [US telcos] Verizon and T-Mobile.” That speed highlights how Australia’s VC ecosystem has burgeoned over the past decade. Although VC emerged as an asset class in the early 1970s, exciting periods of growth were dampened by recessions, the 1987 sharemarket crash, the 2000 dot-com bubble burst and the 2008 global financial crisis. The turning point came in about 2014. At that stage, “you could have counted the number of Australian VCs on two hands”, according to Vullinghs. Fledgling local VCs watched Australian stars such as Campaign Monitor and Atlassian turn to US investors for funding – and wanted a cut of the action. “Australia was producing world-class technology companies – good enough to receive investment from successful late-stage US firms – but local early-stage investment dollars were scarce,” says Wong. AirTree, Blackbird, Square Peg and other pioneer VCs raised funds here to back the next generation of unicorns, including employee engagement platform Culture Amp, driverless car developer Zoox, ecommerce tech platform Rokt and global payments fintech Airwallex.

WHAT’S HAPPENING NOW

Figures from startup funding data platform Cut Through Venture highlight the VC roller-coaster of the past few years. In 2021, Australian startups banked more than $10 billion in VC investment across 731 deals, often on sky-high valuations. The frantic pace continued into early 2022 – then the music stopped. Rising interest rates, surging inflation and plummeting tech valuations slowed the VC frenzy, with $7.4 billion invested across 712 deals. This year has been much slower, with only $2.3 billion invested across 249 deals for the nine months to 30 September. VCs – despite raising a record $2.7 billion from investors in 2022 – have spent cautiously, preferring to support their existing portfolio companies with bridge funding in order to grow into their high valuations. Cash-burning later-stage startups have struggled to attract investment or deferred raising capital, funding rounds have taken longer and VCs are exercising restraint and undertaking detailed due diligence, including meeting with entire management teams, not just the founder. The most recent figures from Cut Through Venture, for 2023’s third quarter, showed no uptick in the number or value of deals but a significant shift in sentiment from the 161 investors surveyed, with more than half rating the investment climate as improved. Most VCs don’t expect to change their fundamental approach to investing – an idea that will disrupt the status quo is worth backing at any time. “For the best founders, there’s no correlation between interest rates and whether they start a company,” says Wong. “It’s usually more

about a technology becoming available that suddenly makes a much better solution feasible – like cloud, mobile or AI – or their ideal co-founder is ready to take the plunge.” Square Peg’s Tynan adds that the slowdown has a silver lining. “The benefit has been a greater ability to build a strong relationship before investing. The frenetic pace of 2021 could make that more difficult. We’re actively investing because we believe that times like these are when the best companies can be created.” Nor do VCs expect to change the qualities they seek in founders. “What we look for in a founder is consistent because building an enduring business requires traits that persist across cycles,” says Vullinghs. Typically, VCs want passionate, inspirational, resilient founders with a unique idea that solves a problem in a big market. They must be able to articulate their vision succinctly, attract world-class talent and learn quickly. They also need to be super-smart and very hard workers. “They are intense and operate quickly, constantly changing course to adapt to customer needs,” she says. “They don’t take no for an answer, knowing there is always a way around every problem. If they haven’t hit budget on the last day of the month, every employee is on the phone to get any outstanding customer contract signed to meet revenue goals.” As brilliant as these founders sound, surely it must be tempting in tough times for VCs to step in and call more of the shots? Tynan says that’s not how it works. “Our model is always one of joining boards and building enough trust to be a founder’s first phone call when things go wrong. So when the markets shifted we took a personalised approach – working out what each company needed and working with the founders to help.”

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

Despite motivated founders and 24/7 VC support, there are failures. Wong says an early warning that a startup is struggling is when revenue numbers are consistently missed. The VC will work with the team to diagnose why and look at strategies to accelerate growth. Often the company needs to buy itself time by conserving its cash – and that means layoffs. “This is always an emotional and stressful time for everyone involved so we try to support the founders and their teams with advice and for those whose jobs are affected, we try to find them roles in the rest of our portfolio.” One high-profile collapse this year was rapid grocery delivery startup Milkrun, less than two years after it launched in late 2021. Early signs were highly promising – the seed round lead investor, AirTree, already knew founder Dany Milham through the Koala mattress business he co-founded in 2015 and it liked his speed and intensity, his ability to attract talent and the size of the potential market. Milkrun quickly became one of the fastest-growing companies that AirTree had ever backed. But by June 2022, Milkrun had dropped its 10-minute delivery promise and in that same month, Woolworths launched its $5 rapid delivery Metro60 app. Milkrun had staff layoffs in

167

Think Tank

168

early 2023 but rising interest rates, rent increases and other hurdles finally forced its closure in April (Woolies bought it in May and rebranded Metro60 as Milkrun). AirTree’s Vullinghs says VC returns rely on a handful of successful investments generating outlier profits. “But it’s a double-edged sword. For every Canva, [online corporate training marketplace] Go1, [social media tool] Linktree and [human resources software developer] Employment Hero in our portfolio that becomes a billion-dollar household name, several startups don’t succeed. Company failure is painful, even if it’s part of an investment strategy that succeeds in aggregate. When a failure happens, we’re there to support the founder to close the business in an orderly fashion, help employees find their next role and manage the fund in the best interests of our LPs.”

THE NEXT 12 MONTHS

For an industry fixated on the future – finding and funding the next big thing as early as possible – VCs are surprisingly reticent about predicting where the next unicorns will come from. “If you tried to [do that],” says Wong, “you’d have missed Canva and Atlassian because there was no particular reason why those companies should have been born here in Australia.” The future, VCs argue, is up to the entrepreneurs and their big ideas. But it’s also true that VCs get a valuable overview of which sectors are attracting the most entrepreneurial interest. Among the many contenders are healthtech, cybersecurity, enterprise software and fintech but there are two standouts: climate/ cleantech and artificial intelligence (AI). “I think we’re in the middle of at least two concurrent crises in which VC has a role to play,” says Tynan. “Climate has

been a focus of ours for a while – we've invested in [lab meat producer] Vow, [renewable energy supplier] Amber and [reusable packaging maker] Zero Co – but as a theme, it's becoming more important… It’s now clear that we’re going to need to build some of the world’s biggest companies to solve climate problems.” The second crisis, he says, is the explosion of AI capability and usage. “This shift has the potential to be as transformational as the shift online – but it’s happening much faster. We’ve been investing in AI-first companies for a decade and have more than 15 in the portfolio, such as Deci, which accelerates AI hardware, Tomorrow.io, which predicts weather, and Neara, which helps manage and transform energy grids.” Wong also believes that AI is the next big technology shift. “It’s reaching a moment now where it’s ready for prime time. You can no longer be a software company without AI – it’ll be incorporated into every piece of software in every industry. We’re already seeing this transformation underway in companies like [AI search engine] Marqo, [AI image production platform] Leonardo.ai and [medical diagnosis tool] Harrison.ai.” She’s also keeping an eye on deep tech companies “innovating with atoms, not bits”. In other words, organisations developing physical rather than software-based solutions, using scientific breakthroughs. “There’s a new wave of companies being built off the promise of abundant, low-cost solar – like SunDrive Solar, which produces the most efficient commercial solar cell in the world – and Australia has a huge opportunity there. “Then there are companies that are making sure we have resilient supply chains for the renewable world, like Syenta and Nomad Atomics. Australia’s hardware startup ecosystem is rapidly coming of age. It’s great to witness and I predict they are just the tip of the spear on this wave of companies.”

Make your investment

even more rewarding Earn up to 150,000 Qantas Points when you make an eligible investment with La Trobe Financial^

p.a.

Current variable rate after fees, reviewed monthly.

Call 1800 818 818 or visit latrobefinancial.com.au/qantas

^ Terms and conditions and eligibility requirements apply, see www.latrobefinancial.com.au/investments/qantas/disclaimer for further details. Points earned on eligible investments. To earn 1 Qantas Point per $4 invested you must invest a minimum of $10,000 in the 12 Month Term Account. The 150,000 points is based on an investment of $600,000.

* The rate of return on your investment is current at 1 November 2023. The rate of return is reviewed and determined monthly and may increase or decrease each month. The applicable distribution for any given month is paid at the start of the following month. The rate of return is not guaranteed and is determined by the future revenue of the Credit Fund and may be lower than expected. An investment in the Credit Fund is not a bank deposit, and investors risk losing some or all of their principal investment. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance. Withdrawal rights are subject to liquidity and may be delayed or suspended. La Trobe Financial Asset Management Limited ACN 007 332 363 Australian Financial Services Licence 222213 Australian Credit Licence 222213 is the responsible entity of the La Trobe Australian Credit Fund ARSN 088 178 321. It is important for you to consider the Product Disclosure Statement for the Credit Fund in deciding whether to invest, or to continue to invest, in the Credit Fund. You can read the PDS and the Target Market Determinations on our website or ask for a copy by calling us on 13 80 10.

The Interview

Kim McKay Just try saying no to the director of the Australian Museum, who is already planning her next big project.

170

Interview by Kirsten Galliott Illustration by Marc Némorin

Current role Director and CEO of the Australian Museum Tenure Nine years and eight months Previous roles Managing director, Momentum2; consultant, mission programs, National Geographic Society; co-founder, Clean Up Australia; senior vice-president, global marketing and communications, National Geographic Channel

How do you define good leadership? I’ve always worked successfully in teams. Anything worth doing and achieving is not done alone and as a leader, you don’t possess all knowledge so I’m always seeking out others. I hope I’ve instilled that concept of teamwork at the museum. With me, what you see is what you get. You’re the first non-scientist and the first woman to run the museum. What did you think when you walked through the door nearly 10 years ago? I’d been on the board of the museum for two years before I got the gig so I had a bit of insight, although I think what I learnt from being on the board is how much I didn’t know about the museum. As a board member of anything now, I pay a lot of attention to what is going on and ask questions about what I’m not being told, too. I knew the role of director was big but that’s why I was employed – to be that change agent and move

the museum into a new way through the redevelopment. So it was very much like peeling an onion – it revealed itself over time. Every time I peeled off another skin, there was something else. But we took it in chunks and the more I got into it, the more I realised that I really enjoyed the transformation. Project Discover [the $57.5-million revamp, which was unveiled at the end of 2020] completely transformed the museum. People stop me in the museum all the time and say, “You’re the director, aren’t you? I just love what you’ve done with the place.” What are the great challenges facing museums around the world right now? Collections the world over are being digitised. It’s really important that we capture the information about an object properly so it can be accessible through storytelling, video footage and still photographs. We have the Collection Enhancement Project, which is digitising the museum’s collection. We have 22 million objects and specimens, which is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. Obviously you can’t digitise every single thing – that would take forever – but it’s working out what we do want to digitise then how we make it available to the public. Our chief scientist, Kris Helgen, and I represented the museum among the top 75 museums in the world to quantify our collections, look at where the gaps are in global collections and create an argument for governments to understand how important museum collections are. They tell us about the past and the present and indicate what’s happening for the future. So it’s important that these collections are revered. Our collection has now been valued at more than $1 billion. That’s also important because it aids the state’s AAA credit rating. One of the other challenges for museums must be the repatriation of objects back to their countries of origin. Yes and also [First Nations] ancestors. That’s what we’re really focused on. We accept them from overseas and return them to Country. We have a program called Returning Them Home, which has been funded by the NSW Government for 10 years, to repatriate ancestral remains from Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples. When you think about how many are held in museums around the world, it’s just shocking. And so are you able to give them back? That’s what we’re working on. Repatriation of ancestors is a very complex process. It takes a long time to ensure that these remains belong to a certain community. In the 1800s, the record keeping was pretty good in some respects but not so good in others. Often a lot of research – and detective work – has to be done. We have a repatriation team. What opportunities are there for museums of the future? Technology has become a huge asset for citizen science. We created the FrogID project nationally. If you’ve downloaded our free app, you can record a frog call and it’s uploaded to us.

Your GPS location is identified and we know exactly what frog is calling because they are identified by the call they make, not what they look like. In Australia, we have more than 240 species of frogs. Sir David Attenborough, who is our lifetime patron, has said that frogs are the most endangered group of animals on the planet – they’re impacted by climate change and urbanisation – but they fulfil such an important role in biodiversity. So technology is going to continue to have an impact on museums and play a vital part. One of the big turning points for the museum was offering free entry so that it was accessible for all. Last year, you had a million people go through the front door. Years ago, you dreamt of 1.5 million visitors. Is that within your grasp? I dream of millions and millions of people [laughs]. I need more floor space to do that so we have a masterplan to expand. We have a site in the city, which has some older buildings on it that could come down. I want to build a fantastic new wing on the museum that showcases cultural research, scientific research and education. Museums can change a kid’s life. Pursuing a free model means that the museum has to find other ways to make revenue. How big a part of your role is securing funds from private donors? It’s a big part. Any CEO of a museum always has one eye on fundraising. We raise about a third of our own capital each year and that’s millions and millions of dollars. If I say to someone, “Give me $5 million and I’ll deliver this”, I’m going to deliver it. We’re true to our promise. I learnt that in my earlier career in business – don’t promise things you can’t deliver. Philanthropists in Australia are very careful about where they spend their money and they’re watching what you’re doing all the time. It’s a matter of ensuring that you put programs and projects together where people can see outcomes and the social impact. Everyone wants to know that their funding is making a difference. I’ve heard you say that if you want something badly enough, you won’t take no for an answer. I’m persistent. If somebody genuinely isn’t interested, well, that’s fine but I think there are always ways to achieve things. I had a major donor say to me recently, “Kim, could you just tell me, when I said I wasn’t going to give you any money, how you got $5 million out of me?” [laughs] How much of your success is down to sheer hard work and how much is due to persistence? I think a bit of luck is often thrown in there, too. Let’s say luck is 10 per cent. If you’re in one of these roles, you have to be very committed to it – it’s not a seat-warming job. You’re there to make a difference and the passion and commitment and perseverance you have will pay off because others want to share in that. It’s damn hard work but nothing in life comes easily. It’s a rare person who strikes gold but even they’ve had to dig a lot to get there.

171

The Interview

Not a day goes by that you’re not thinking about how to generate more revenue. What are you doing about it? Now when we build an exhibition, we build it to tour internationally. We have three shows touring at the moment so that’s good for the brand of the Australian Museum and the brand of Australia but it’s also a revenue generator. America and Europe are huge markets so we’re trying to hone our skills in touring. It’s a new revenue stream. You’ve got a marketing background, which isn’t a common path to the CEO role. Do you think more marketers should be leading organisations? The museum is selling an experience and we’ve got to be competitive with cinemas, theatres and video games. We’re an entertainment project as well as an educational project so I think being a marketer and sensitive to those opportunities is good. It brings a different lens to the museum.

172

You’ve also said you have a bit of a politician in you. Does that come in handy? Diplomatic skills come in handy. I can’t be political in my role but the practice of negotiation and getting people to get behind your cause is just as relevant in a museum as it is anywhere else. It comes back to communication skills. Is the devil in the detail for you? Always. I remember speaking to a leader whom I admired. He was juggling phones and I said, “How on earth do you remember all of this?” He said, “Kim, always pay attention to the detail. If you’re not paying attention to some of the detail, there’ll be other, bigger things going wrong.” So if the detail is working, the big things are going okay. You often go to work on the weekends. Is there such a thing as work-life balance for you? I’m the best person at leaving and not thinking about work again until I go back. But I’ve got something really big on, Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs [which opened on

18 November]. So I want to be there. It’s fun! Most days I wake up going, “Isn’t it great that I’ve got this job.” You’ve got a lot of staff who have worked at the museum for a long time. That can be complicated when you’re trying to make changes. How have you managed that? I had the opportunity to bring in some new people, which any organisation needs – it does need refreshing over time – but we still have a lot of people who have been there a long time and that’s because a lot of the work we do is highly specialised. Change is a very difficult thing. Even if you’re talking about changing one thing in the museum, everyone will have an opinion about it. We have well over 400 employees so it’s not a small enterprise. I imagine that scientists could be tricky to manage… I spent nearly a decade in America at National Geographic and before that at Discovery Channel. A lot of my role was dealing with scientists and working with them on big projects. Understanding what motivates people is really important. Scientists do have a different outlook on life and a different level of inquisitiveness and curiosity than the rest of us – the proof quotient is important to them and it takes time. We all need science; our future is based around good science. You’ve been at the museum for nearly 10 years. What are you still burning to achieve? I want to build the new wing on the museum. In 2027, we turn 200. We’re the second-oldest scientific research institution and the first museum in the country. We can do so much more. Stay tuned because I’m working at something that could be exceedingly exciting for the future. I’ve got a lot to achieve yet. People always expect you to leave after 10 years. Why? What advice would you give a brand-new CEO? Listen to your gut instincts. Set your course, communicate that course to people and take them with you. But trust your instincts.

On the fly Personal motto? Never give up.

You’ve got to take time to celebrate the successes.

five things done in a day, that’s remarkable.

Email approach? Make them short. I don’t read long emails.

Productivity hack? Set your goals for the day and cross off the top five things that you’ve done. You’ll never achieve the top 10 because there’s so many other things that pop up during the day but if you can get

Business podcast? I’m listening to The Rest Is Politics [with Alastair Campbell and Rory Stewart] because I love the mix of global issues and politics. It’s so informative and entertaining.

Motivation tactic? Pop a bottle of champagne if you do something good.

The rule you don’t break? I’m a rule breaker. I don’t ask permission very often either. Your favourite piece of advice? Do what you love. If you’re not enjoying something, stop doing it. Change it. Don’t waste time being unhappy in something.

Nothing beats knowing you’re trading in another league. Step up to a new level of trading and realise your full potential. Visit CMCAlpha.com

Seek independent advice and consider the relevant Terms and Conditions at cmcmarkets.com.au when deciding whether to invest in CMC Markets products. CMC Markets Stockbroking Limited (ABN 69 081 002 851 AFSL No. 246381).

Check In

Melbourne Four of the best stays for business travellers.

174

Story by Bridget de Maine

The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne

CBD This 257-room property (qantas.com/ hotels/theritzcarltonmelbourne) is in a galaxy all its own. Expect seamless service, especially when dining at its north star, Atria (above), the finediner on Level 80. It’s designed to impress (and might help seal a deal), as is Cameo, the bar offering rare antique spirits, which is tucked around the corner from the lobby. After COB, head to the wellness level to unwind.

Voco Melbourne Central

CBD There’s no trick here – off Lonsdale Street, 252-room Voco Melbourne

Central (qantas.com/hotels/voco melbourne) really is as convenient as you can get. Dressed in an inviting palette of lapis velvet and walnut wood, it’s a refreshing change from the minimalist aesthetic. Other genial touches include a rooftop bar, steakhouse restaurant and a pool heated to a very welcoming 28ºC. 3. AC Hotel Melbourne

Southbank

SOUTHBANK Proximity to the Convention Centre is just one drawcard of this 205-room stay (qantas.com/hotels/achotel melbournesouthbank). The whisperquiet rooms and on-site tapas eatery are also highlights for fly-in-fly-out guests who are likely to be spending a lot of time in their room. When it comes to downtime, there’s a gin-cart

happy hour in the sleek lobby lounge and a heated infinity pool overlooking the city skyline. 4. InterContinental Melbourne

The Rialto

CBD Work to your own schedule at InterContinental Melbourne The Rialto (qantas.com/hotels/ intercontinentalmelbournetherialto), thanks to the newly refurbished Club InterContinental. Dedicated to private check ins (and outs) with a refreshment menu from morning until evening, the space helps to cushion crammed calendars. And the hotel’s central Collins Street location keeps you close to the CBD’s culinary hot spots.

Firsts

Nick Hockley The first leadership test for the CEO of Cricket Australia gave him the impetus to go big and bold.

176

As told to Kirsten Galliott

My very first job, which I absolutely loved, was as a coach on summer sports camps during the school holidays. I enjoyed teaching and seeing the kids improve and get a lot out of sport. But my first professional job was in finance. I really liked the numbers. I spoke to my uncle, who is an accountant, and he said, “The best way to learn about business and understand the numbers on a profit and loss balance sheet is to get professionally trained.” But the day I qualified as an accountant, I realised that I wanted to make stuff happen, not report on historicals. So I moved into corporate finance, which is where I started my love of deal-making. My first significant mentor was [Lord] Paul Deighton, who was the CEO of the London Olympics. As well as making time and always keeping his sense of humour, he had this incredible way of helping you to solve problems. You’d have a really difficult, complicated problem, with massive time pressure, and he’d ask a whole load of questions, which helps you deduce the

answers. So you’d walk out 10 feet taller, feeling like you’d solved it by yourself. Paul had a profound impact on me. All he really asked for was us to do the best work of our lives. And I think if you do meaningful work with great people, you can’t ask for too much more. My first big win was with my team on the London Games. We secured the Olympic record for the highest-ever sponsorship. We generated $1.2 billion – �700 million – from 44 sponsors. Looking back, we were a bunch of kids in our late 20s, early 30s, but we had the privilege of speaking to the chairs and CEOs of the biggest companies in the United Kingdom and the world. We believed in the proposition and put ourselves in the shoes of the people we were talking to. Our approach was very much about understanding their business and thinking how the partnership could help them. You’ve got to sell the benefits and the value to the partner. I still love understanding businesses – whether they’re companies, broadcasters, governments, venues – and their objectives then thinking about how we can work together on a win-win. You can only be successful if you’re working together.

Defining moment

My biggest leadership test is my first CEO role, here at Cricket Australia. It’s an opportunity to really shift the paradigm. I’ve described myself as a pragmatic optimist but increasingly I love to do things that people think are impossible – and prove them wrong. A big challenge that we set ourselves was to play the final of the [ICC] Women’s T20 World Cup at the MCG [in 2020, in front of 86,174 people]. Previously, the biggest-ever crowd had been 5000 people at North Sydney Oval [in Sydney]. That decision was bold and brave but it wasn’t taken lightly. Lots of people were extremely sceptical and in the early days [of my leadership], that felt quite lonely. But ultimately you need a fundamental belief in the vision and the project. That’s the prerequisite for bringing everyone along. Luck is when preparation and opportunity meet but that needs to be combined with a conviction that you can make things happen. My first major negotiation was during COVID. It was actually lots and lots of negotiations, including convincing the Indian team to have the faith to come to Australia when the borders were closed. We said it’s really important to the world, to cricket and for the morale of everybody in India and Australia to play the series. That became the north star. Successful negotiations are all about setting the context and concentrating on the bigger picture. We’ve just completed our next player deal. The previous deal, back in 2017, was very fraught so we spent a year getting aligned on what the main principles were. We said at the outset that we want to make sure we’re closing the gap between the women’s and men’s pay, we want the best players to be playing for Australia and that they

“Having the opportunity to work on the London Olympics was a combination of my passion and professional experience. Sport has the power to improve people’s lives, get kids more active, bring people from different generations and cultures together and ultimately bring joy.”

remain the best-paid sports players in the world. It was about keeping it really, really simple. My first real understanding of how life works came from my father. He was a doctor and worked with lots of very sick kids. So that would always put things in perspective. His mantra – which I’ve borrowed and my team is probably sick of hearing me say – was, “A living problem is better than a dead certainty.” There’s always a way and there are people in this world with the responsibility of working with life-and-death decisions so you’ve got to put things in perspective.

1838369 2023-10-30T10:30:23+11:00

Education is the ticket to a better future

Scan for more information

Empowering prosperity, Protecting legacies.

www.forestersfinancial.com.au

Masterclass

How to… appeal to Generation Z The youngest members of Australia’s workforce know what they want. BOP Industries CEO and generational consultant Scott Millar, 23, explains how to engage young talent. As told to Alison Boleyn

Gen Zs, those born between 1995 and 2010, approach the workforce differently. Young professionals will take a pay cut to work for a company or cause they believe in. One study this year showed that 66 per cent of Gen Zs would take, on average, 23 per cent less to work for an environmentally active organisation. Even paid days off to volunteer for something they are passionate about can make a difference for this demographic.

They want to feel they have ownership. Young people go to small businesses, charities and startups because they know these companies wouldn’t function without their contribution. They’re looking for organisations that formally embrace intergenerational collaborations and learning opportunities – that have mutual respect for ideas and perspectives. Generation Z cops flak for not committing but they’re just not willing to suffer a toxic culture. We’ve seen our parents miss birthdays because they’re chained to their desks. But Gen Zs aren’t afraid to call that out and say, “I don’t want to be here.” We’re noticing a real shift towards reskilling and upskilling – doing an inventory of skills and sourcing short courses, digital badges or micro-credentials to supplement those existing skills and create new career pathways.

Hannah Puechmarin

178

This generation is reimagining nine to five, experimenting with the digital nomad lifestyle and freelancing. They’re asking, “How can I commodify my skills and the hours I want to work, from locations I want to work in, with companies I want to work with?” Because they’re digital natives, they love to connect, collaborate and create on digital platforms so they’re more likely to take remote and flexible working opportunities.

Presented by SAP

Fashion-forward thinking This retailer digitised its human resources systems to save time, effort and paper – all while empowering managers to do their own hiring. Since its inception in 2008, fashion retailer DECJUBA has expanded from five stores to more than 140 outlets across Australia and New Zealand. This rapid growth required the company to digitise its HR system so the brand looked to SAP’s SuccessFactors technology to handle increases in team members, while standardising its HR processes. “One of the fundamental things that we needed was an end-to-end HR system,” says DECJUBA’s chief people officer, Georgegina Poulos. “This was pivotal to bringing our team-member lifecycle – called D:LIFE – to fruition.” Before the digital upgrade, DECJUBA had multiple disconnected HR systems, including onboarding programs and ad-hoc recruitment and manually maintained Excel spreadsheets. This was affecting data integrity and impeding the efficiency of HR processes.

DECJUBA teamed up with implementation partner KALTech Group, who helped integrate the new technology. In just 16 weeks, SAP SuccessFactors helped the brand achieve improved data access, paperless administration processes and streamlined onboarding and recruitment, which benefited both the company and its 2000 team members. The new system has seen job requisitions take just three minutes to complete – previously it was 24 hours. Onboarding a team member had necessitated five physical forms – now there are none. And an organisation

Streamline HR systems and empower workforces. Visit SAP.com

structure can be generated instantly, instead of taking two hours. Having reliable access to accurate, live data in a user-friendly HR system has empowered DECJUBA store managers to take charge of their own recruitment and administration. The mobile application has also helped the brand’s many retail team members to approve job requests and process recruitment changes. “The new candidate experience is seamless, our leaders are empowered to do their own hiring and everything is automated, pre-populated and synchronised.”

The Big Idea

MILO It all started with wanting to keep tabs on his kids racing down the ski slopes, says engineer Dr Peter Celinski.

180

Interview by Jane Nicholls

Founder Dr Peter Celinski, 46 Investors XT Ventures, Foxconn and multiple Silicon Valley angels First customers Milo began shipping globally in 2022 Headquarters Loose Cannon Systems Inc is based in San Francisco, with staff in Sydney, Melbourne, Seattle, Boston and Copenhagen Staff 16

What’s your elevator pitch? “I wanted to reimagine the walkietalkie experience and create a product people would use, not reluctantly out of necessity but because it makes their shared outdoor adventures better. We call the Milo Action Communicator the ‘GoPro of walkie-talkies’ – a simple device that doesn’t require the user to stop and push a button to talk and delivers clear audio, even in extreme conditions: high wind, noise, freezing cold and rain. It can go underwater, too – but you can’t talk then. It seems simple but inside each Milo is a computer, similar to what’s inside a smartphone.”

How did the idea come about? “I learnt to ski late in life and very quickly my young kids became better skiers than me. I found myself trying to follow them down one of the diamond ski runs at Whistler in Canada and they disappeared through the trees. I followed them, shouting and waving my arms, and thought there had to be a better way to communicate when adventuring outdoors. There was nothing on the market enabling communication in the moment.” What was the problem you were trying to solve? “I wanted to be sure it was a problem, not something I was imagining. People’s reaction was mixed, which

Pete Thompson

Fact file

is great because if it’s obvious then there’s no opportunity. Some people said, ‘You can just use your phone’, and I was like, ‘Have you ever tried to use your phone when you’re skiing or riding a bike?’” How did you get it off the ground? “I have a PhD in electronic engineering and am a technology entrepreneur with experience in wireless networking and audio product development. I was with my previous company until the end of 2018 so it was evenings and weekends tinkering with a couple of other engineers. The key was to build something that was simple and people could use to communicate clearly while they were moving. We built

algorithms to filter out wind noise. We wanted people to be able to banter, rather than have to take turns, so we built a protocol in the software to deal with the voice-data distribution. The range between two Milos is about 600 metres but as a group of three or more spreads out, they create a network.” How did you convince investors? “I learnt in my first company that you need to find a serious customer fast. We signed an agreement with our distributor very early – they were confident of wide interest from retailers, which allowed us to find a manufacturer. We met electronics manufacturer Foxconn and it also became a strategic investor, which

meant we could raise more capital, hire people and start developing the idea. In late 2020, when we were close to something that was production-ready, we launched a Kickstarter that in 37 days took AU$4 million in preorders from around the world.” What’s next? “Milo – named after the son of one of our earliest investors – was among Time magazine’s Best Inventions in 2022. It’s exciting to see the diversity of the communicator’s users: surfers, skiers, mountain bikers, kayakers, golfers, sailors, road cyclists, e-scooter riders, sports coaches. We also have interest from the construction, mining, oil and gas industries and hospitals.”

Try a range of wines. With a caseload of Qantas Points.

Earn up to

150,000 bonus Qantas Points annually

Explore quarterly wine subscriptions at qantas.com/wine Points make it possible Members who have a Wine Subscription will earn bonus points if they retain the same Wine Subscription for four consecutive orders of the same case. Bonus points are contingent on the nominated Wine Subscription plan. 150,000 is the maximum number of bonus points that can be earned upon retaining the Wishlist Reds Wine Subscription for four consecutive orders. Points will be credited to the member’s Qantas Frequent Flyer account within 8 weeks of the final order delivery date. To purchase from Qantas Wine, you must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer member, 18 years of age and over and have an Australian delivery address. Liquor Act 2007 (NSW): No alcohol can be sold or supplied to anyone under 18. It’s against the law. Licence Number: NSW LIQP770016736, SA 57900154, NT IRL0201. Qantas Wine is operated by Qantas Frequent Flyer Operations Pty Limited ABN 22 132 484 210

ON BOARD

On Board

Movies Kick back and catch up on the latest releases

Gran Turismo Imagine all the high-octane intensity of the Fast & Furious franchise – the face-melting speed, the machismo, the shiny sports cars. Now imagine it’s on a real race track. This is the plot of the film Gran Turismo, based on the car-racing game. Jann Mardenborough became so good at it as a teenager that he was recruited by Nissan and later turned pro driver. He’s played by Archie Madekwe (above) in this film from director Neill Blomkamp (District 9) that co-stars Djimon Hounsou (Gladiator) as Jann’s dad, Orlando Bloom (The Lord of the Rings) and David Harbour (Stranger Things). Rated M

186 The Equalizer 3

from a bullet wound he sustained in the fracas. He’s content to live a quiet life (a red flag of the genre) and is wandering the cobblestone streets when he discovers a Mafia ring is bullying a business in the village. What’s a vigilante to do? Those who remember Washington’s precocious 10-year-old co-star in 2004’s Man on Fire will be chuffed to discover Dakota Fanning, who is now 29, playing opposite him in a wink to that earlier film. In their first outing, Washington had the role of a former CIA operative; here, it’s Fanning’s character who works for the CIA. They spar like old war buddies and considering the number of gunfights in this movie, they kind of are. Rated MA15+

My Big Fat Greek Wedding 3 Taking its cues from another frothy Europe-set romantic comedy, Mamma Mia, the characters in this film visit Greece to bask in the sunshine and discover family roots. Nia Vardalos, who also directs and wrote the script, reprises her role as Toula, now fretting over her own daughter, Paris (Elena Kampouris), a struggling university student. Toula is still married to Ian (Sex and the City’s John Corbett, above with Vardalos), a retired teacher leaning all the way into his kooky wife’s hijinks in the motherland. Rated PG

Words by Natalie Reilly

Denzel Washington’s ability to express barely contained rage has allowed him to play a good guy (Philadelphia) and a bad guy (Training Day) in equally compelling measure. He plays both in this film, the third instalment of The Equalizer, based on the 1980s TV series of the same name about an ex-Marine who administers rough justice. What began in 2014 as a one-off movie about Robert McCall has now morphed into a trilogy and it’s easy to see why because what could be better than watching Washington (above) exact righteous revenge? Watching him do it while speaking Italian, that’s what. Moored in a Sicilian town after a shoot-out, McCall is lying low, recovering

Barbie

By now you’ve probably heard the stats: taking in a global box office of US$1.36 billion, Barbie (co-produced by Margot Robbie, right, who also stars) is the highest-grossing movie ever made by a female director. That director, Greta Gerwig (Little Women), co-wrote the slightly loopy script with her spouse, Noah Baumbach (Marriage Story), and it includes the Mattel doll’s existential crisis and blithe rejection of Ken (Ryan Gosling). At 40, Gerwig is what may be termed an “elderly Millennial” and Barbie, with its Indigo Girls road song and nascent Karate Kid villain references, seems tailor-made not just for children but their Millennial and Gen X elders, too. While the film functions as a love letter to girlhood, it also encourages anyone who believes that perfection is the ultimate goal to finally break out of the box. Rated PG

187 Mission: Impossible – Dead Reckoning Part One

You have to hand it to Tom Cruise, who is still doing his own stunts at 61. It seems age has not wearied him in the acting department either; that steely gaze remains focused on the job at hand. In this collaboration between Cruise (as agent Ethan Hunt) and director Christopher McQuarrie (who’s helmed every Mission: Impossible movie since 2015’s Rogue Nation), an online algorithm has become an AI nightmare known as The Entity. Hunt sets out to remove it from the wrong hands and his usual co-workers – Luther (Ving Rhames) and Benji (Simon Pegg) – are there to help, now battling a professional thief (Hayley Atwell, left with Cruise), who doesn’t realise the trouble she’s in. Rated M

On Board

Television

The Great

The best shows to binge this month

In 1744, Princess Sophie of AnhaltZerbst travelled from Poland to marry Tsar Peter III. After adopting the royal moniker of Catherine the Great, she ruled and revolutionised Russia. The loose details of that history make up this darkly comic series starring Elle Fanning (below). Rated MA15+

Twisted Metal It’s tough finding a steady job but it’s even tougher in a post-apocalyptic wasteland. John Doe (Anthony Mackie, below, with Stephanie Beatriz) realises this so agrees to deliver a mysterious package. With Will Arnett. Rated MA15+

188 Winning Time: The Rise of the Lakers Dynasty

To understand how Earvin “Magic” Johnson rose to fame as the most valued player in the United States basketball league, you have to tell the story of the Los Angeles Lakers in the 1980s. The team’s owner, Dr Jerry Buss (played by John C. Reilly), invented a new way to enjoy the sport, complete with celebrities in the front row, cheerleaders and Johnson (Quincy Isaiah, above with Reilly), a preternaturally talented player with star charisma, who would go on to redefine the AIDS crisis. Rated MA15+

One Night Three Aussie friends who survived a traumatic event 20 years ago are forced to confront their past when one of them writes her memoir. Starring Jodie Whittaker (left), Nicole da Silva and Yael Stone. Rated MA15+

Glastonbury 2023 Enjoy your favourite bands without getting so much as a skerrick of mud on your boots. Now in its 53rd year, the festival line-up includes Arctic Monkeys, Guns N’ Roses, Elton John (below) and Lizzo.

Audiobooks Listen in to these great stories

The Art of Growing Up In an increasingly complex world, how do parents nurture and guide their children into adulthood? Bringing everything he’s learnt from decades of working with and writing for young people, bestselling author and educator John Marsden presents his manifesto on parenting and childhood in the 21st century. He offers insights into a range of topics, from the role and importance of education to what he defines as a “problem parent” and a “problem child”.

The Happiest Man on Earth How do you survive unimaginable suffering and not be defined by it? In 1938, Eddie Jaku, a German Jew, was arrested and spent seven years enduring the horrors of Buchenwald and Auschwitz concentration camps then a death march. In this memoir, Jaku, who died in 2021, tells how the Holocaust robbed him of family, friends and country but never his belief in humanity. His story is proof that the pursuit of happiness is the most effective rebuke to hate.

Connect to Qantas Free Wi-Fi and Entertainment App Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps to access the internet and Qantas Entertainment App.

189 Allegra in Three Parts Young Allegra is surrounded by people who love her – grandmothers Joy and Matilde and father Rick – yet these same people don’t love each other. They all live in their own worlds, divided from each other by a tragedy that refuses to remain silently in the past. In her award-winning comingof-age debut novel set in 1970s Australia, writer Suzanne Daniel makes the conflicted Allegra the lens through which her splintered family is viewed.

STEP 1 Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings. STEP 2 Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect. STEP 3 Once you’re connected, you’re now ready to access the internet and the Qantas Entertainment App.

News Enjoy unlimited access to theaustralian.com.au, afr.com.au and themonthly.com.au when you are connected to Qantas Wi-Fi onboard and in Qantas lounges

Having trouble connecting? Make sure you are connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start exploring. Inflight entertainment varies by route and aircraft. Voice calls are not permitted inflight.

Games

Cryptic clues

11 12

Across

01. 04.

06. 12. 13.

14. 22

15. 16. 17.

19. 22.

30 31

23.

25. 27.

34 35

31. 37

33. 35. 36.

37. 40.

41. © Lovatts Puzzles

190

Quick clues

42. 43. 44.

Breaks sculptor’s works (5) They’re involved in a sweet production (4) Those who search for fishing boats (8) Newcomer could possibly ignore ref (9) Come in at back in attempt to please crowd (9) Nun lets out digs (7) Tally will be unknown if this is lost (5) Quasimodo urgently disguises stench (5) Watches reports offshore (8) Move to trap king and stop spouse (9) Miserable son gets drunk late after disco (12) Enjoying Dreamworld? (6) I’d get into a bed to be tolerated (6) Dramatise corruption? Solicit a fine! (12) Army hairstyles can be time-savers (9) Profits make FBI tense (8) Extreme preparation includes raw seafood (5) Is Ron going into clubs? (5) Transport used by actor Jackie in ten moves (7) I’m going between public relations and IT – I’ve become uncivilised (9) A good one will land the job (9) Input official list (8) Grows old inside cage, sadly (4) Telegraphs ships (5)

Down 01. 02. 03. 04.

Across 01. 04. 06. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 19. 22. 23. 25. 27. 31. 33. 35. 36. 37. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44.

Head and shoulders likenesses (5) Hard workers, busy ... (4) Net-dragging vessels (8) Stranger (9) Consider (9) Underground passages (7) Nobleman (5) Smell (5) Supervises (8) Defeat in chess (9) Crestfallen (12) Dormant (6) Complied with, ... by (6) Turn into novel (12) Ctrl+C, Ctrl+Z, etc (9) Advantages (8) Shrimp relative (5) Presses (5) Delight (7) Archaic (9) Interrogate (9) Till, cash ... (8) Mellows and ripens (4) Satirises, ... up (5)

Down 01. 02. 03. 04. 05. 07. 08. 09. 10. 11. 17. 18. 20. 21. 24. 26. 28. 29. 30. 32. 34. 35. 38. 39.

Crosswords and puzzles compiled by LOVATTS

05.

Be appropriate to (5) High-speed athletes (9) Microscope plate (5) Balustrade (9) Fertilise (soil) (6) Renamed (8) Male witch (7) Dry up (9) Less crazy (5) Revive (11) Trials and tribulations (7) Twinkled (of stars) (5) Verbalise (7) Candid (5-6) Slice wafer-thin (5) Placing in quarantine (9) Breakfast dishes (9) Fake (leather) (9) Escapee (8) ... and adenoids (7) Quizzing (6) Gift-wrap (5) Likely, on the ... (5) Built-up areas (5)

07. 08. 09. 10. 11. 17. 18. 20. 21. 24. 26. 28. 29. 30. 32. 34. 35. 38. 39.

Suit to stay in shape? (5) They’re quick to cover a track (9) Drop a kind of guitar (5) Forbid sister slipping off handrails (9) Improve niche distribution around middle of Turin (6) Circled heading with red and provided a different one (8) He can cast spells and battle Bolt (7) Pave new way to speak and disappear (9) Nears arrangement that’s more logical (5) Bring back models? Sure! There’s 101 in nation (11) Orals containing loveless ode are painful experiences (7) Excelled at finding egg in sick hens (5) Fast way to travel past journalists (7) Blunt prairies protrude north (5-6) Finally, barbers have to do it to customers (5) I sing a lot about separating (9) Upset telemovie featured return of non-vegan meals (9) Counterfeit copy (9) Highly sought-after runner (8) Slots in for adjustment of tissue in mouth (7) Posing as royal figure (6) Writing material for academic article (5) They sometimes play music on special occasions (5) Destruction won’t end progress for small cities (5)

Sudoku

Wheel of words

Tough puzzle, simple rules: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the numbers 1-9.

Create as many words of four letters or more as you can using the given letters once only but always including the central letter. Don’t use proper nouns or plurals ending with “s”. See if you can find the nine-letter word using all letters.

18 24 30+

9 4

8 6 7

6 3

4 7 © Lovatts Puzzles

9 8

3 6

4 9

1 1

4 7

4 5

Y N

Moderate

4 5

6 5 3 9

3 5 9 6

2 4

1 8

5 6

Work out all the missing parts of these movie titles and find them hidden in the box of letters. The leftover letters will spell out an oft-misquoted line from an Oscar-nominated 1989 film starring Kevin Costner.

1 © Lovatts Puzzles

Match-ups – What a drama

Hard

6 3

Good Very good Excellent

Easy

9 1

S E N

Y P

A H K

A N R O S S

S U O

R U C R R

G F M

N E K

A L

A E

Y E G E K

K R N H O U

A S

S F

B R W H T

Y U M S R D E

P R

T E

E D

M L

D F

R G L

A N

T U O C

R W

A E U

V H I

N E H R

A H U E U N D

C O S

L W H O E N

N © Lovatts Puzzles

A S

C O C L

O C K W O R K M E © Lovatts Puzzles

3:10 To 12 A Slave A Mind A Orange A Star Is Call Me By Your Citizen Ford V Glengarry Glen Torino Groundhog Lawrence Of Leave No Léon: The Dollar Baby Raging Saving Ryan List Boulevard Taxi The Bridge On The The Case Of Benjamin Button The Locker The Speech The Pursuit Of The Redemption The Network A Very Engagement Will Be Blood Three Billboards Ebbing, Missouri Walk The

More puzzles over the page; solutions on page 193

191

Games

Quiz By Hazel Flynn

192

01.

In what year was the first email sent?

02.

What dessert’s name, from a Venetian dialect, means “pick me up”?

03.

What is Polynesia’s only remaining monarchy?

04.

Anthracite and bituminous are types of what?

05.

Which former Beatle released the triple album All Things Must Pass in 1970?

06.

Fran Drescher created and starred in what hit 1990s sitcom?

07.

What is the capital of Latvia?

08.

Magnus Carlsen and Hou Yifan are champions in what sport/game?

09.

What does “cc” stand for in motorcycle engines?

10.

Nephrotic syndrome affects what body part?

Spot the difference

11.

Which two British royal houses fought the Wars of the Roses?

Can you spot the seven differences between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

12.

Feijoada is the national dish of what country?

13.

What is known as China’s “Mother River”?

14.

What are baby hedgehogs called?

15.

Which Oscar winner’s roles include high-schooler Tracy Flick and lawyer Elle Woods?

16.

Giant squid inspired what sea monster of Norse mythology?

17.

What is the stage name of the Say So singer born Amala Ratna Zandile Dlamini?

18.

How many rooms are there in the board game Cluedo/Clue?

19.

The computer language Ada honours what 19th-century mathematician?

20.

Which former number one ranked tennis player became Australia’s Davis Cup team captain in 2016?

Vintage tram in Lisbon, Portugal

Solutions

Sudoku

Crossword

Wheel of words

If you’ve filled in the answers, please take the magazine with you so the cabin crew know to replace it with a new copy.

Clue, Cluster, Crept, Crest, Cruel, Cruet, Culture, Cure, Curse, Cute, Cuter, Cutler, Cutpurse, Ecru, Erupt, Lest, Lucre, Lure, Lustre, Lute, Pelt, Pert, Pest, Puce, Pulse, Pustule, Pure, Purest, Purse, Pursue, Rest, Result, Rule, Ruse, Rustle, Scruple, Sect, Slept, Spelt, Spruce, Step, Suet, Super, Sure, Suture, Truce, True, Ulcer, Upset, User, Uterus. Nine-letter word: Sculpture.

Spot the difference

01. Change to tram lights 02. Window removed

03. Extra window on top of roof 04. Frame on red

Easy

A S

S E N

Y P

A H K

R U C R R

G F M

A N R O S S

N E K

A L

A E

S F

Y E G E K

K R N H O U

A S

I B

A Y

A E U

B R W H T

T E

E D

M L

D F

R G L

A N

T U O C

R W

Y U M S R D E

P R

V H I

N E H R

A H U E U N D

C O S

N L W H O E N

C O C L

Moderate

S U O

Y N

B U S T S B E E S T R A W L E R S P R E V N L A A E A E N T E R T A I N F O R E I G N E R S I I P I D E L I I C O U N T O D O U R T U N N E L S S C T L R H T C H E C K M A T E O V E R S E E S P R H X I D R T R D I S C O N S O L A T E A S L E E P A N R A H E A B I D E D F I C T I O N A L I S E S S M M N E V L F S H O R T C U T S B E N E F I T S O G L A L T P E N C H A N T P R A W N I R O N S S O T K T A A T K T I N T E R V I E W P R I M I T I V E O N L N N E D E N V S E N D S R E G I S T E R A G E S

house added 05. Extra plants by door 06. Pole on right side of road. 07. Red door turns to green

Hard

3:10 To Yuma, 12 Years A Slave, A Beautiful Mind, A Clockwork Orange, A Star Is Born, Call Me By Your Name, Citizen Kane, Ford V Ferrari, Glengarry Glen Ross, Gran Torino, Groundhog Day, Lawrence Of Arabia, Leave No Trace, Léon: The Professional, Million Dollar Baby, Raging Bull, Saving Private Ryan, Schindler’s List, Sunset Boulevard, Taxi Driver, The Bridge On The River Kwai, The Curious Case Of Benjamin Button, The Hurt Locker, The King’s Speech, The Pursuit Of Happyness, The Shawshank Redemption, The Social Network, A Very Long Engagement, There Will Be Blood, Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri, Walk The Line. Solution: If you build it, he will come.

Quiz 01. 1971 02. Tiramisu 03. Tonga 04. Coal 05. George Harrison 06. The Nanny 07. Riga 08. Chess 09 Cubic centimetres 10. The kidneys 11. York and Lancaster 12. Brazil 13. Huang He

(Yellow River) 14. Hoglets 15. Reese Witherspoon 16. The Kraken 17. Doja Cat 18. Nine 19. Ada Lovelace 20. Lleyton Hewitt

Your Retirement Haven Awaits Locations covering the East Coast of Australia

BRISBANE

NEWCASTLE SYDNEY

BALLARAT

GEELONG

BENDIGO BACCHUS MARSH MELBOURNE

1800 445 350 countryclubliving.com.au

MARMONG WATERS COUNTRY CLUB

On board

Inflight workout

Foot pumps (foot motion is in three stages)

These exercises are designed to provide a safe way to stretch and enjoy movement in certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting. They may be effective at increasing the body’s blood circulation and massaging the muscles. We recommend you do these exercises for three or four minutes every hour and occasionally leave your seat to walk down the aisles. Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to other passengers. None of these exercises should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.

Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upwards as high as you can.

Put both feet flat on the floor. Lift heels high, keeping the balls of the feet on the floor.

Repeat these three stages in a continuous motion and at 30-second intervals.

Knee to chest Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around the knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Forward flex With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Shoulder roll Hunch shoulders forwards then upwards, backwards and downwards in a gentle circular motion.

Ankle circles Lift feet. Draw a circle with toes, moving one foot clockwise and the other counterclockwise at the same time. Reverse circles. Rotate in each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Knee lifts Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg.

In the air Mobile phones and electronic equipment: All transmitting electronic devices, including mobile phones, tablets and laptop computers, must be switched to flight mode* prior to departure. Smaller devices such as mobile phones, e-readers, electronic games, MP3 players, iPads and other small tablets may be held in your hands or stowed in a seat pocket. Unless otherwise directed by the captain, these devices may remain switched on and used in flight mode during take-off, cruise and landing. Larger electronic equipment such as laptop computers may only be used from when the aircraft seatbelt sign is extinguished after take-off until the top of descent. After landing, the cabin crew will advise when flight mode may be switched off. Headsets: Do not use a personal single-pin audio headset in the Qantas inflight entertainment system unless it is supported by a two-pin airline headset adaptor. Personal headsets that connect via a cable

Neck roll With shoulders relaxed, drop your ear to your shoulder and gently roll your neck forward and back, holding each position for about five seconds. Repeat five times.

to a handheld device can be used at any time from boarding until arrival. Headsets and other devices that connect via Bluetooth must be switched off for take-off and landing but can be used during cruise.

Inflight: The aircraft configuration, including the seats and galley, act as a natural barrier, and people are not seated face to face. The direction of inflight airflow is ceiling to floor.

*Flight mode enables you to operate basic functions of your mobile phone or personal electronic device while its transmitting function is switched off, meaning you cannot make phone calls or send an SMS.

Enhanced cleaning: Our aircraft are cleaned with a disinfectant effective against coronaviruses, with a focus on the high contact areas of seats, seatbelts, overhead lockers, air vents and toilets. Our people are trained in the latest hygiene protocols.

Fly Well

Face masks: Some destinations require you to wear a mask during your flight or at the airport. Ensure you check the latest government requirements before you travel. Your face mask needs to cover your mouth and nose, fit securely and must be worn unless you’re under 12 years of age or have a medical exemption.

Your wellbeing is our priority. Our Fly Well program brings together a number of measures to give you peace of mind during your flight. Cabin air: Our aircraft air conditioning systems are fitted with hospital-grade HEPA filters, which remove 99.9% of all particles including viruses. The air inside the cabin is refreshed every few minutes, ensuring the highest possible air quality.

Your inflight health: When flying, passengers can be seated and inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and the

cabin pressure equivalent to an altitude of 2440 metres above sea level. The following advice helps you stay healthy during your journey. The importance of inflight blood circulation and muscle relaxation: When walking, the leg muscle action helps return venous blood to the heart. Sitting in the same position for a long period of time can slow this process and, in some people, leads to swelling in the feet. Some studies have shown that immobility associated with travel of longer than four hours (by air, car or rail) can also lead to an increased risk of deep vein thrombosis (DVT), or clotting in the legs. Personal factors that increase the risk of DVT include: Age over 40 years Personal or family history of DVT or pulmonary embolus Recent surgery or injury, especially to the lower limbs, pelvis or abdomen Cancer Inherited or other blood disorders leading to clotting tendency Pregnancy Oestrogen therapy (oral contraceptive pill or hormone replacement therapy).

Go out in the daylight and do some light exercise Try to eat meals and do other social activities at appropriate destination times to adjust to the new time zone Cabin humidity and hydration: Humidity levels of less than 25 per cent are common in the cabin, as the outside air that supplies the cabin is very dry. The low humidity can cause drying of the surfaces of the nose, throat and eyes and it can irritate contact lenses. If normal fluid intake is maintained during the flight, dehydration will not occur. We recommend: Drink water and juices frequently during the flight Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your eyes are irritated Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin

There are a number of ways to help reduce the possibility of DVT, including the following: Avoid leg-crossing while seated Ensure adequate hydration Minimise alcohol and caffeine intake before and during your flight Wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothes During your flight, move your legs and feet for three to four minutes per hour while seated and move about the cabin occasionally Do the light exercises we recommend here (see above) and through the inflight entertainment system. If you have concerns about your health and flying, or you feel that you may be at risk of DVT, Qantas recommends that you talk to your doctor before travelling. Additional measures such as well-fitted compression stockings or anti-clotting medication may be recommended for high-risk individuals. Jet lag: Unlike other forms of transport, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, which can disrupt the body’s biological clock. This is commonly known as jet lag. This disruption can affect various body rhythms such as the sleepwake cycle and the digestive system, leading to symptoms such as tiredness and lack of energy and appetite. In general, the more time zones crossed, the more disruption of the body clock and the more symptoms experienced after the journey. We recommend the following to minimise the effects of jet lag.

Cabin pressurisation: During flight, aircraft cabin pressure is maintained to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. As the aircraft climbs, the cabin may reach the same air pressure as at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level. Cabin pressure does not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you suffer from obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experience discomfort at these altitudes. These passengers should seek medical advice before flying, as some may require supplementary oxygen. Qantas can arrange this but requires at least seven days’ notice before travelling. The rate of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent is also carefully maintained and does not usually cause discomfort. However, children and infants, and adults who have sinus or nasal congestion, may experience some discomfort because of pressure changes during climb and particularly descent. Those suffering from nasal or sinus congestion because of a cold or allergies may need to delay travel. The following advice may assist: To “clear” your ears, try swallowing, yawning or pinching your nose closed and gently blowing against it. These actions help open the Eustachian tubes, equalising pressure between the middle ear chamber and throat. If flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing help equalise pressure in an infant’s ears. Give children something to drink or chew during descent. Consider using medication such as nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages.

Before your flight: Get a good night’s rest During your flight: Eat light meals Wear loose, comfortable clothing and sleep when you can Stay hydrated – drink plenty of water and avoid excess tea, coffee and alcohol At your destination: If possible, give yourself a day or two after arrival to adjust to the new time zone

Motion sickness: Air travel, especially if turbulence is experienced, can cause motion sickness, as it leads to a conflict between the body’s sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Maintaining good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on a non-moving object) helps prevent motion sickness. When the weather is clear, you should look out at the ground, sea or horizon. If the horizon can’t be seen, closing your eyes and keeping your head movements to a minimum will help. While over-thecounter medications are available, we recommend

you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications. More information can be found: At qantas.com.au/info/flying/intheair/ yourhealthinflight Through the onboard entertainment system On our information leaflet available from Qantas or your travel agent Smoking: Government regulations prohibit smoking on all flights operated by Australian-registered aircraft. The use and charging of all e-cigarettes and other personal vaporisers are not permitted on board an aircraft. There are smoke detectors in all toilets and penalties for regulation breaches. Travelling with children: Please ask cabin crew for help if required. Baby food and nappies (diapers) are available on most flights, while some washrooms are fitted with baby change tables. Please dispose of nappies etc. in the waste bins.

When you land Leaving flights: On international flights, the cabin crew will distribute the necessary Customs and Immigration forms. If you are stopping en route, you will need your boarding pass to re-board the aircraft. If you’re travelling as a domestic passenger on an international flight within Australia, retain your boarding card with the large D sticker. This will be required to clear Customs at your destination. Transferring from Australian domestic flights numbered QF400 and above to international flights: At check-in you will be issued with your international boarding pass. Your international boarding pass and baggage will be tagged through to your final destination. There is no need to claim your baggage or attend check-in at the transfer airport. Follow the signs for international transfers passengers to the complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne and Darwin). Transferring from international to domestic flights numbered QF400 and above: On arrival at your Australian transfer port, go through Immigration and collect your luggage. Proceed through Customs and follow the signs to the domestic transfer area to re-check your luggage. A complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne, Adelaide and Darwin) departs at regular intervals for the domestic terminal for your connecting Qantas flight within Australia. If your connecting domestic flight is numbered QF1-QF399, there is no need to clear Customs and Immigration. These flights depart from the international terminals. Customs and Immigration clearance will be completed at your final destination. Transferring to a Jetstar domestic flight: If your next flight is with Jetstar (JQ) or a Qantas codeshare flight operated by Jetstar (QF5400-QF5999), you will need to collect your baggage and follow the signs to the Jetstar counter to check in for your flight and re-check your baggage.

195

On board

What you need to know about your onboard security, safety and health

Qantas security policy The Qantas Group has a strict policy of denying boarding, or off-loading any passenger who makes inappropriate comments or behaves inappropriately inflight or on the ground. Qantas will not accept any inappropriate comments as “jokes”. It will also seek to recover all costs incurred, including diversions as a result of security incidents, from those involved.

Group-wide security

196

Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation. The Qantas Group ensures that its passengers, staff and aircraft are safe and secure through an outcome-focused, risk-based approach to security management. Qantas security standards apply across the business, including QantasLink and Jetstar. A dedicated operations centre monitors global security events 24 hours a day.

Security advice Pack your own luggage Do not carry any items for another person Carry valuables, approved medication and keys in your carry-on baggage All knives, sharp objects or cutting implements must be in checked baggage Security measures can include random frisk search after consent is obtained. Passengers may request privacy and must be searched by a screener of the same gender Important note: Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation.

Restrictions on powders and liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGs) On all international flights to and from Australia: Each container of LAGs in your carry-on baggage must be 100ml or less All 100ml containers must be placed in a single transparent one-litre plastic bag Plastic bags containing LAGs are to be screened separately from other carry-on baggage All powders must be screened separately with restrictions on the carriage of inorganic powders over 350ml (350g) Passengers may still carry prescription medicines or baby products sufficient for the flight If departing, transiting or transferring on an international flight at an Australian

international gateway airport, duty-free powders and LAGs must be sealed, with receipt, in a security tamper-evident bag issued at the time of purchase

Full-body scanners The Australian federal government has introduced full-body scanners at international gateway airports: Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast The Australian Federal Government has commenced introducing full-body scanners at major domestic airports: Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Canberra, Darwin, Gold Coast, Hobart, Launceston, Melbourne, Newcastle, Perth, Sunshine Coast, Sydney and Townsville At international gateway airports passengers refusing to pass through the scanner will be banned from entering the sterile area or boarding an aircraft for 24 hours Exemptions apply for people with serious medical conditions, infants and small children, and people in wheelchairs As per advice, the energy exposure is comparable to that from a mobile phone several metres away There are no known safety concerns for people with pacemakers and metal implants or for pregnant women

Dangerous goods Common items used every day may seem harmless but on an aircraft they may become dangerous. When the aircraft changes altitude, variations in temperature and pressure may cause items to leak, create fumes or catch fire. Items that are forbidden on aircraft or have carriage restrictions include lithium batteries, other battery types, camping stoves, fuels, oils, compressed gases, aerosols, household cleaners, matches, lighters, paints, explosives (including flares, fireworks, sparklers and bonbons), emergency position-indicating radio beacons, radioactive material, biological and infectious substances and fuel-powered equipment. This list is not exhaustive so please carefully consider what items you pack for your next flight. If you’re unsure about an item in your baggage, ask a member of our friendly cabin crew. For further information, go to qantas.com or email dg@qantas.com.au.

Automated immigration clearance Several countries are introducing automated immigration clearance procedures to cope with growing air-travel numbers. The goal is to provide a faster, smoother immigration experience to eligible passengers without compromising border security. Please note that some automated clearance options may not be available due to COVID. Countries providing facilities across our network:

Australia SmartGate: e-passport holders of Australia, Canada, China, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Korea, Macau, New Zealand, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, UK and US China e-Channel: citizens of China Hong Kong e-Channel Residents: citizens and residents of Hong Kong Hong Kong e-Channel Visitors: frequent visitors that are visa-exempt, including Australians Indonesia Autogate passport gates: citizens of Indonesia Japan Speedy Immigration: citizens and foreign nationals with re-entry and special re-entry permits New Zealand SmartGate Plus: e-passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, UK and US Singapore enhanced-Immigration Automated Clearance System (eIACS): citizens, permanent residents, work permit holders and APEC cardholders UAE eGate: UAE citizens and residents UK ePassport gates: e-passport holders of UK, Switzerland and European Economic Area (EEA) USA Global Entry system: US citizens and permanent residents, Dutch citizens, South Korean citizens and Mexican nationals. Canadian citizens and residents with NEXUS membership

Travel advice

USA Automated Passport Control: for US, Canadian and Visa Waiver Program passport holders

Qantas is a partner in the Australian government’s Charter for Safe Travel. Travellers may obtain the latest travel advice for their destination by visiting smartraveller.gov.au.

Fee applies Pre-enrolment required

See where your fuel can take you

Earn and use Qantas Points at bp. Join BP Rewards to get started at

qantas.com/bp Must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer member. Available at participating BP Rewards service stations only on eligible purchases. To earn points at bp, you must be a BP Rewards member and have elected to earn Qantas Points. To use points at bp, transaction must be over $10 in value. T&Cs apply, see qantas.com/bp for more details.

09:30

Qantas Domestic Route Network

SEA ARAFURA ARAFURA SEA

Melville Island

GOVE (Nhulun GOVE (Nhulunbuy)

Maningrida

Effective 1 December 2023. Routes shown are indicative only

DARWIN

TIMOR SEA

Oenpelli Jabiru

Batchelor

08:00

ARNHEM LAND

Daly River

KAKADU

Pine Creek

Wadeye

Kalumburu

Groote Eylandt Groote Eylandt

Katherine Ngukurr

Oombulgurri Wyndham

INDIAN OCEAN

KUNUNURRA

KIMBERLEY

Daly Waters

Derby

McArthur River

Gu Carp

Borroloola

Newcastle Waters

Kalkarindji

BROOME Halls Creek

Dooma

NORT H E R N

T E R R I TORY

COUN

Tennant Creek

PORT HEDLAND Dampier

GREAT SANDY DESERT

KARRATHA

MT IS Marble Bar

Onslow

Exmouth

Camooweal

Tanami

Barrow Creek

Pannawonica

LEARMONTH

Telfer Solomon PILBARA

Tom Price

NEWMAN

PARABURDOO

GIBSON DESERT

Jigalong

ALICE SPRINGS

CHAN

Areyonga

Kaltukatjara

Carnarvon

ULURU (AYERS ROCK)

W EST E R N AUST R A L I A Meekatharra

COUN

Uluru Warburton

Amata

Finke

Wiluna

Oodnadatta GREAT

VICTORIA

DESERT

Mount Magnet Laverton

GERALDTON

Leonora Three Springs

Coober Pedy

Menzies Dalwallinu

Maralinga

Moora Coolgardie Southern Cross Merredin

Northam

Karonie Boulder Kambalda

NULLARBOR

Widgiemooltha

Fremantle

Andamooka Andamooka Leigh C LeighDam Creek Olympic Dam Olympic Lake Torrens Lake Torrens Parachil Woomera Parachilna Woomera

Wynbring

PLAIN Lake Everard

Eucla

Coorabie

Norseman Brookton

Kondinin

Lake Gairdner

Penong Ceduna Smoky Bay

Bunbury

Harvey Collie

BUSSELTON

Wagin Katanning

Margaret River

Newdegate

Hopetoun Northcliffe Walpole

Port Augusta

WHYALLA Peterb

WHYALLA

Port Pirie

Port Pirie Ravensthorpe

Cowell

Great Australian Bight

Esperance

Manjimup

Augusta

Haw

Hawker Port Augusta

Streaky Bay Narrogin

Marree

AU ST R A L I A

Cook

KALGOORLIE

PERTH

Mandurah

L Grego

S OU T H

Morawa

Lake Eyre

Yalgoo

Mullewa

Ernabella

Cue

Kalbarri

SIMPSON DESERT SIMPSON DESERT

Mount Barker Denmark Albany

Cowell Burra

PORT LINCOLN

M ADELAIDE ADELAIDE Victor Harbor

KINGSCOTE KINGSCOTE

T Victor H M

Kangaroo Island Kangaroo Island

ROUTE KEY Qantas and QantasLink route Jetstar hub and port QantasLink hub and port Ports serviced by other airlines for Qantas Qantas Club and Qantas regional lounge locations Qantas Group international gateway port National capital International and Domestic flights remain subject to Government and Regulatory approval.

Qantas Frequent Flyer domestic partners and codeshare airlines

Qantas

Jetstar

Airnorth

MOU

HORN ISLAND

Thursday Island

nbuy) WEIPA CAPE

T EA GR

CORAL SEA

Gulf of Carpentaria

Cooktown

Laura

Mossman

CAIRNS

Atherton

Karumba Normanton

Doomadgee

IER RR BA

Burketown

Port Douglas

Mareeba

Mungana

Tully

Croydon

Georgetown Forsayth

GULF

Ingham

TOWNSVILLE

COUNTRY

Ayr Kajabbi

MT ISA

Bowen

Charters Towers

Hughenden

Richmond

CLONCURRY

MACKAY EF RE

AT GRE

QUE E NSLAND

Dajarra

HAMILTON ISLAND

PROSERPINE (WHITSUNDAY COAST)

Julia Creek

MORANBAH Winton

Saraji Blair Athol

Boulia

Yeppoon

EMERALD

LONGREACH

ROCKHAMPTON

Blackwater

BARCALDINE

CHANNEL

GLADSTONE

Springsure

Bedourie

Biloela

Moura

BLACKALL

Yaraka

Monto

Theodore

COUNTRY

BUNDABERG HERVEY BAY

Windorah Augathella

Birdsville

Maryborough

Gayndah

Injune

Gympie

Charleville

Quilpie

Mitchell

Kingaroy

Roma

Noosa

MILES

MAROOCHYDORE (SUNSHINE COAST)

Dalby

BRISBANE

TOOWOOMBA

Moonie Thargomindah

Moomba

GOLD COAST

St George

Cunnamulla

Goondiwindi Dirranbandi

L Gregory

Texas

Mungindi Tibooburra

Lightning Ridge

MOREE Inverell

Milparinka

Coonamble Cobar

Wilcannia

Olary

ING

NE W SO UTH Ivanhoe

Peterborough

WA L ES Burra

ORANGE

Parkes

MILDURA

Ouyen

SYDNEY

Tocumwal

VICTORIA

Horsham Kingston South East

Hamilton

Batemans Bay Cooma

Narooma

PA C I F I C OCEAN

Bombala

MERIMBULA

Seymour

Ballarat

Eden

Alexandra

MELBOURNE

MELBOURNE (AVALON)

Portland Warrnambool

CANBERRA

Mt Kosciuszko 2228m

BENDIGO Ararat

Millicent

Wodonga Wangaratta

Shepparton

Naracoorte

MOUNT GAMBIER

ALBURY

Birchip Bordertown

Gundagai

Deniliquin

Meningie

Kiama Nowra

Yass

WAGGA WAGGA

Swan Hill

EA T

Pinnaroo

Gosford

Wollongong

Goulburn

Narrandera

Tailem Bend

NEWCASTLE

Bathurst Katoomba

GRIFFITH

Hay

Murray Bridge

Maitland

Lithgow

West Wyalong

Renmark Berri

Geelong Colac

Sale Traralgon

Moorabbin

Wilsons Promontory

Bass

Strait

King Island

Flinders Island

Smithton

BURNIE

Georgetown

DEVONPORT

Savage River

LAUNCESTON

Longford

Rosebery Strahan

LORD HOWE ISLAND

Taree Forster

Scone Muswellbrook

DUBBO

Menindee

PORT MACQUARIE

Gilgandra

BROKEN HILL Yunta

TAMWORTH Kempsey

DIVID

wker

Gunnedah

NORFOLK ISLAND

COFFS HARBOUR

Coonabarabran

Nyngan

BALLINA BYRON

ARMIDALE

RAN

Narrabri Lake Frome

Lismore

Grafton

Glen Innes

Walgett

Bourke

Casino Tenterfield

L Blanche

lna

Harbor

10:00

PENINSULA

Creek

Coen

YORK

Queenstown

TASMA N IA

St Helens

Bicheno Campbell Town Orford

HOBART

Strathgordon Huonville

Port Arthur

TASMAN SEA