FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 99 MARCH 2018 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
to A foodie trip n The Torrido
and top chefs Ross Stovold Marianne Stewart
Mother’s Day treats
MARCH 2018 ISSUE 99
Davina McCall’s recipes for a happy and healthy family
The Hemsley+Hemsley founder keeps things fresh
MOTHER’S DAY GIFTS l COCKTAILS l CITY SOUTHSIDES
CYRUS TODIWALA DINNER MASTERCLASS
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Foodies Family Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 26A St Andrew Square Edinburgh EH2 1AF Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk
FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 99 MARCH 2018 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
to A foodie trip n The Torrido
and top chefs Ross Stovold Marianne Stewart
Mother’s Day treats
MARCH 2018 ISSUE 99
Davina McCall’s recipes for a happy and healthy family
The Hemsley+Hemsley founder keeps things fresh
MOTHER’S DAY GIFTS l COCKTAILS l CITY SOUTHSIDES
Front cover image Nourish Cakes by Marianne Stewart, Quadrille, £15. Photo © Catherine Frawley.
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Deputy Editor Chiara Margiotta Design Vicky Axelson Editorial Assistant Emily J Hall Production Sarah Hitchen Advertising Design Jamie Smail
OOD and family go hand in hand, and with Mother’s Day taking centre stage this month, we felt it was the perfect time to celebrate family by focusing on the food that brings us all together. TV favourite Davina McCall is well known for her healthy diet and in this issue she’s sharing nutritious dishes that are perfect for midweek dinners with all the family, including hearty lamb chops and rich baked eggs, pp.14-21. Melissa Hemsley, one half of super culinary duo Hemsley+Hemsley, is offering up fresh, tasty recipes that are just made for sharing with friends, while pastry chef Marianne Stewart’s cakes aren’t only delicious, they’re naturally gluten and dairy free, so everyone can enjoy. Head Chef at the 5-star Torridon Hotel Ross Stovold also joins us, sharing an innovative parsnip cake recipe and talking us through the importance of provenance and the Scottish larder, pp.48-49. Love the look of his food? You’re in luck: we’ve managed to secure a fabulous opportunity to win a one night stay at The Torridon, complete with a delicious tasting menu created by Ross. This is a prize you don’t want to
miss out on, so head to p.13 to find out how to be in with a chance to win. Still to buy a Mother’s Day gift but lost for ideas? Head to our gift guide, p.23, for a little inspiration, or create your own hamper with an array of our favourite Scottish jams, chutneys & pickles, p.43. Or, if you’re really looking to spoil mum, why not treat her to a day of true luxury at one of our top spa destinations, pp.33-35. This month, we’re also putting the spotlight on Edinburgh and Glasgow’s Southside. We give you the lowdown on the best cafes, bars, and restaurants to help you explore these foodie havens, plus Edinburgh’s BABA share some tempting Levantine-inspired cocktails. So let’s gather round the dinner table and enjoy the thing which brings us all together: food cooked for those you love. Sue Hitchen, Editor
ADVERTISING Business Development Sharon Little SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 558 7134 or email the editor: firstname.lastname@example.org
Davina McCall is a TV presenter and advocate for fitness and healthy eating.
Melissa Hemsley is a co-founder of Hemsley+Hemsley and best-selling cookbook author. foodies 3
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edinburghâ€™s favourite food & Drink festival
WITH TOP CHEFS
Toploader The Hoosiers
3, 4, 5 august
food & drink
foodiesfestival.com p4.indd 4
This month 36 24
BOOKS, TV, WHAT’S ON NEWS SHOPPING
7 9 11
COMPETITION A foodie break at The Torridon
DAVINA MCCALL Dishes all the family will love
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE 23 Everything you need to make mum’s day MELISSA HEMSLEY Fresh recipes from the Hemsley+Hemsley co-founder
MOTHER’S DAY SPAS Treat mum to a little relaxation
MARIANNE STEWART Beautifully nourishing sweets
JAMS, PICKLES & CHUTNEYS 43 Scotland’s best preserves
CITY SOUTHSIDES 45 The Southside hotspots in Edinburgh and Glasgow CHEF Q&A 48 The Torridon’s Ross Stovold shares a recipe
ST ANDREW SQUARE A foodie round up
INTERIORS REVIEWS COOK SCHOOLS
52 56 59
COCKTAILS 61 NEW BARS 64 OUT & ABOUT 66
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8 8 B r u n t s fi e l d P l a c e Coming Soon
Arch 15, East Market St 0131 629 1551
102 Constitution St 0131 629 1919
BOOK ONLINE - CHOPHOUSESTEAK.CO.UK
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BOOKS, TV & WHAT’S ON FOODIES
Cooking the books A Baker’s Year Tara Jensen, St Martin’s Griffin, £18.63 The queen of Instagram bread-baking Tara Jensen leads readers through a year in the simple life and shares her fabulous recipes. Feasts From the Middle East Tony Kitous, HQ, £20 Bring the flavour of the Middle East to your kitchen with these feastworthy recipes, inspired by the souks of Lebanon. Where Chefs Eat Joe Warwick, Phaidon Press, £19.95 Eat where the real experts do with this guide to some of the world’s top restaurants - as chosen by some of the world’s top chefs.
Texas Cake House Meet the team at Texas Cake House to discover the most daring cakes Texas has to offer. Adventurous bakers Natalie and Dave Sideserf create spectacular showstoppers like you’ve never seen before, from a hyperreal snake cake to an ambitious piñata cake. Join them from the beginning again with midweek double-bills and be stunned again and again. Texas Cake House series 1 begins with double-bills on Wednesdays on Food Network UK, from 21st March at 9pm.
HARVEY NICHOLS & CREED: SENSORY DINNER 28 March, Edinburgh Ignite more than just your tastebuds at Harvey Nichols sensory dinner. Created in collaboration with celebrated fragrance house Creed, this exclusive event aims to combine scent and taste for a truly unique culinary experience. Marrying notes from five scents with delicious, creative courses, this is one adventurous foodies will love.
Photo: Paul Dodds
What’s on GARY GOLDIE AT HOUSE FOR AN ART LOVER 16 March, Glasgow The award-winning, Nomatrained chef andexpert forager Gary Goldie heads up House for an Art Lover for one night only to serve up a signature feast. With a menu focused around locally foraged ingredients developed into creative dishes, from birch sap ice cream to wild garlic naan, it’s an exclusive event foodies won’t want to miss.
MEATS AND BEATS FESTIVAL 9-10 March, Edinburgh After a sell-out event last year, Meats and Beats has come back bigger and better. Taking over Summerhall, they’re boasting an outdoor street food village full of BBQ’d meaty delights, cheesy crowdpleasing tunes, pop-up bars, and retro playground games for an unforgettable night out with plenty of wings, Wham!, and dancing galore. foodies 7
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0 55 131 9 7 463
if ro le @
C H PA E F JÉ TR H RÔ ON EN M : RY E
71 High Street, North Berwick, East Lothian EH39 4HG T: 01620 890589 M: 07708 760607
1 E FO ED H 1 RTH IN 3 S BU J T RG X H
td e I F s ar O ti U . st C e
bar parties cocktails chef’s table private dining salon dining room www.osteria-no1.co.uk
FLAVOURS OF THE EARTH
Be first in line to taste the final two expressions in Tomatin’s limited edition Five Virtues series. Joining the sell-out spirits Wood, Fire and Earth, the fruity mature Water and soft, distinct Metal editions are bound to join the impressive ranks of their sister malts.www.tomatin.com
A HEAD ABOVE THE REST Former Cameron House Head Chef Gary Townsend has made the move south, so head to Glasgow’s 3AA Rosette awarded One Devonshire Gardens to sample his culinary talents and creative new menu. www.onesquareedinburgh.co.uk
A TRIP TO THE CAPITAL Nico Simeone, the award-winning chef behind Glasgow’s Six by Nico and 111 by Nico, brings his unique dining concept to Edinburgh, opening a brand new restaurant next month. Get your bookings in quick, this is set to be the new it-spot in town. www.sixbynico.co.uk
TOP OF THE CLASS Already favourites in the Edinburgh beauty scene, Zen Lifestyle have gone on to impress the rest of the country, too, being named 2018’s UK Salon of the Year at the Professional Beauty Awards, the Oscars of the beauty industry. Bravo! www.zen-lifestyle.com
lts? Fancy trying Tomatin’s new ma Be quick - there’s only 6,000 bottles available SWEET SUCCESS Aberdeenshire dairy farm Rora’s deliciously creamy yoghurts are already a farmers market favourite, but their brand new 150g pots are lunchbox perfect. Choose from Scottish Blossom Honey, Raspberry or Strawberry, all made the artisan way with milk fresh from the farm. www.roradairy.co.uk news 9
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Canape Plates www.creative-tops.com, £7
Patterned Cake Slice www.takatomo.de, £8.78
3 Tier Cake Stand www.saramiller.london, £50
Tea Ball Infuser www.audenza. com, £8.50
Mini Milk Carton www.creative-tops.com, £7
TWO FOR TEA
Red Patterned Teapot www.pib-home.co.uk, £25
Whether it’s High Tea or an afternoon cuppa, sip your tea with style Floral Cup & Saucer www.creative-tops.com, £16 Pastry Forks www.saramiller.london, £20
Floral Napkins www.talkingtables.co.uk, £3.50
Cake Dome www.black-bydesign.co.uk, £75
Scandi Jug www.tch.net, £10
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The Orchard Bar is an informal, relaxed bar and restaurant situated in Canonmills only a few minutes walk from the botanic gardens. With a regularly changing and varied menu using locally sourced seasonal produce the orchard provides excellent classic meals with a modern touch. The Orchard also has a fine range of beers & wine to offer.
1-2 Howard Place, Canonmills, Edinburgh, EH3 5JZ email@example.com 0131550 0850
PLAC E F OR C OC K TAIL S Discover innovative cocktail creations & reďŹ ned interpretations of the classics, built to order by our talented team of mixologists at Edinburgh's most stylish new restaurant & cocktail bar. firstname.lastname@example.org 0131 228 7517
Read our interview with Head Chef Ross Stovold on p.50
Win a foodie escape for two at The Torridon Hotel A
N ELEGANT 58-acre estate on the edge of Torridon Loch, the 5-star Torridon Hotel is a picture of country glamour, combining luxuriously designed bedrooms filled with vibrantly coloured velvet with a historic building and peaceful location. Originally built in 1887, the hotel boasts enviable views across the loch and over the Torridon Hills, as well as a kitchen garden, farm, Whisky & Gin Bar and a 3 AA Rosette restaurant. This month, one lucky foodie and guest will win a luxurious overnight stay at this opulent hotel. Whether you choose to take on the Torridon hills or challenge yourself to an afternoon of sea kayaking with the resort’s own instructors, or are simply
looking to unwind with a stroll round the grounds, there’s something to suit all guests. The prize also includes an indulgent dining experience at 1887, The Torridon’s signature hotel. Head Chef Ross Stovold’s daily changing innovative dishes are inspired by and created with produce from the resort, from herbs grown in the kitchen garden, to meat reared in the Torridon farm. Previous dishes have included the likes of barbequed broccoli with salted blackcurrant and Duroc pork loin with crab apple and smoked eel, but all are equally thoughtful and inventive. Complete the night with a nip from the array of 365 single malts adorning the Whisky & Gin Bar. l
For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
What is the name of The Torridon’s Head Chef? To win, either like our page on Facebook and send us a message with your name and email address or email your details to enter@ foodiesfestival.com
T&C: Entries must be received by 31/03/18. Prize is valid for a one night stay for 2 with dinner and breakfast. Prize is subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Must be redeemed before 31st March 2019. Prize excludes dates between May 2018 - September 2018 and Bank Holidays. Entrants and guest must be 18+. No cash alternative. Non-transferrable. Editor’s choice is final. foodies 13
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FOODIES DAVINA MCCALL
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Family favourites TV legend Davina McCall shares her kitchen secrets for keeping the whole family happy and healthy
elcome to my kitchen – my fave place! A place of chat, laughter, heart-to-hearts and lots and lots of cooking! I’ve got to a stage in life now where I want to concentrate on the things that really matter. For me that’s being with the ones I love and feeding them satisfying and healthy food. Food isn’t just about health and nutrition. It’s a social thing. I like to eat with friends. I like to share meals with my family and I love to cook for people when I can. There’s really nothing nicer than sitting round the table with the people you love. We’re all so busy and we have to work long hours but as often as possible it’s so important for the family to sit doen together to eat, talk and share the events of the day. We try to sit down for dinner and for Sunday roasts – my fave times. These recipes are the ones I make because
they’re simple. They don’t have lots of ingredients or cooking stages – and there’s as little washing up as possible, honest! Now the healthy bit… It’s a tricky word ‘healthy’, but if you tune out the nonsense and the fad diets and pseudo-science, there are clear nutritional rules that will help us all live longer and live better. From giving the kids the best start in life to making sure our beloved grannies and grandpas are getting the nutrients they need to stay strong and trim, the message is the same. And that message is clear: no refined sugar and fewer processed foods. So this is what this is all about: great food for any age. Food that will feed our bodies, minds and souls and won’t take too long or much effort to cook. Share the love, show you care and get ready to do some cooking. l
‘Food to feed our bodies, minds and souls’ foodies 15
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FOODIES DAVINA MCCALL
Baked eggs with chorizo and red peppers As everyone probably knows by now, I completely LOVE eggs. This makes an amaaaazing brunch or lunch dish – loads of flavour and super easy to put together.
Serves 4 100g cooking chorizo, diced 1 red onion, sliced into wedges 2 red peppers, deseeded and thickly sliced 400g can of chopped tomatoes ½ tsp hot paprika 1 tsp oregano 150g spinach, well washed 4 eggs 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley, to garnish
To serve (optional) Toast Greek yoghurt
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Add a teaspoon of olive oil to an ovenproof frying pan and pile in the chorizo, onion wedges and red peppers. l Cook for several minutes until the onions and peppers have started to soften, then add the tomatoes, paprika and oregano. Simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce has reduced a little. Pile the spinach on top and leave it for a few seconds to wilt down, then stir it into the sauce. l Make 4 shallow indentations in the sauce with a spoon, then carefully crack an egg into each one. l Put the pan in the oven and bake for 10 minutes, until the whites of the eggs are set, but the yolks are still runny. Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle over some parsley. l Serve with toast and perhaps some yoghurt on the side if you like. l
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Serve up to friends for a one pot brunch theyâ€™ll love
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FOODIES DAVINA MCCALL
Marinated lamb with cauliflower couscous This is another dish that’s quick to prep and cook but does need time to marinate in order to taste its best. I love lamb but it is quite high in calories so it’s good to serve it with this low-cal but totally lovely cauli couscous. Ras-el-hanout is a North African spice mix and you can buy it in supermarkets.
Serves 4 8 small lamb chops or 4 lamb steaks 1 tbsp Moroccan spice mix or 1 tbsp ras-elhanout Juice of ½ lemon 4 garlic cloves, crushed or grated Lemon wedges, to serve
For the cauliflower couscous 1 small cauliflower, broken into florets 2 oranges Small bunches of mint and parsley, finely chopped ½ cucumber, finely diced 1 small red onion, very finely diced
l Put the lamb chops or steaks in a dish and season them with salt and pepper. Mix the spice mix or ras-el-hanout with the lemon juice, garlic and 4 tablespoons of olive oil. Pour the mixture over the lamb and massage it into the meat. Cover the dish and leave the meat to marinate in the fridge for at least an hour or overnight. l For the couscous, blitz the cauliflower in a food processor until it resembles breadcrumbs. Cut a small slice off the top and bottom of one of the oranges and sit it on your work surface. Cut away the skin and membrane, following the contour of the orange. Dice the orange flesh, removing any pips and any large pieces of membrane. Pour any juices into a jug or bowl and squeeze out any juice from the membrane.
Repeat with the other orange. l Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan. Add the cauliflower and stir it for a minute or so, then add about 100ml of water. Cook over a medium heat for about 5 minutes until the water has evaporated and the cauliflower is dry and opaque looking, with the raw edge taken off, Tip the cauliflower into a bowl. When it has cooled down, add the orange flesh and juice, herbs, cucumber and red onion. Mix thoroughly. l Remove the lamb from the fridge an hour before you want to cook it. Heat a griddle pan (or prepare a barbecue) until very hot. Grill the chops or steaks for 3–4 minutes on each side until just pink in the middle. Leave them to rest for at least 5 minutes before serving with the cauliflower couscous and lemon wedges.
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Low calorie cauliflower couscous balances out the hearty lamb
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FOODIES DAVINA MCCALL
Skate wings with salsa verde I didn’t used to be very adventurous with fish but now I’ve discovered skate wings and I think they’re fantastic. They’re not as expensive as some fish, they’re simple to cook and my children love them because there are no bones – the flesh peels away very easily. Capers are a traditional partner for skate so this zesty herby salsa verde is just right. You can also use ray wings for this dish.
Serves 4 4 skate wings, about 250g each A few thyme leaves 4 branches of cherry tomatoes on the vine
For the salsa verde 50g can of anchovies Zest and juice of 1 lemon Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped Small bunch of basil, leaves only, finely shredded 2 tbsp capers, rinsed
l First make the salsa verde. Put the anchovies and their oil in a small saucepan and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon zest and juice. Put the pan over a medium heat and keep breaking up the anchovies with a wooden spoon until they have blended with the oil and lemon. Taste for seasoning – you may not need any salt, but add some pepper. Leave the sauce to one side until you are ready to serve the fish, then stir in the herbs and capers. l Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a roasting tin with non-stick baking paper and brush it with olive oil.
l Trim the wings so they can fit in a single layer in the tin – use scissors to cut away any edges of the wings that you can see don’t have any flesh on them. Season the wings with salt and pepper and place them in the roasting tin. Brush them with a little more olive oil and sprinkle with the thyme leaves. l Bake the wings in the oven for 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes. Continue to bake for a further 6–7 minutes until the fish is just cooked through and the tomatoes are close to bursting point. Serve the fish and tomatoes with the sauce spooned over them.
Davina’s Kitchen Favourites by Davina McCall, published by Seven Dials, £20. 20 foodies
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Pair with a green salad and new potatoes for a complete feast
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RARE, EXPENSIVE, HANDMADE. AND THAT’S JUST THE CASKS.
THAT’S THE GLENGOYNE WAY. glengoyne.com
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE FOODIES
The perfect partner for Edinburgh Gin’s Pomegranate & Rose TEA Eteaket’s Blooming Marvellous Tea isn’t only a dose of relaxation in a mug, the green tea scented candle in this gift set will keep the feeling burning all night long, £21.95 eteaket.co.uk
TONIC Complete a G&T gift set with Franklin & Sons Natural Indian Tonic £1.29 franklinandsons.co.uk
Mum’s FLOWERS Head to Harvest Garden for the perfect bouquet, from £24.95 flowersbuydelivery.co.uk GIN Edinburgh Gin’s brand new Pomegranate & Rose liqueur makes for a glamorous tipple £18.50 edinburghgin.com
THE WORD Still to buy your Mother’s Day gift? Never fear, we’ve got it all wrapped up
SWEETS These raspberry ripple mallows are the sweetest treat from £3.75 katycloud.co.uk
CHOCOLATES Try the Dipped Fruit Selection for the sweetest 5-a-day going £22.95 highlandchocolatier.com
Vegan, dairy free, and gluten free, so everyone can enjoy
TEA CUPS Skip the flowers and go for Le Creuset’s Rose Quartz stoneware mug instead from £7.50 lecreuset.co.uk foodies 23
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FOODIES MELISSA HEMSLEY
Food with a
Not just one half of super cooking sibling duo Hemsley + Hemsley, this year Melissa Hemsley has branched out with a solo cookbook all about eating your way to happiness
fter spending a decade working in the food industry, the recipes that I and my family and friends come back to, time and time again, are those that are tasty, easy to cook, nourishing and thrifty. Eating well is for everyone and for every day. It can suit any budget and use ingredients from the corner shop down the road or foraged from the leftovers in your fridge or freezer. It can be straightforward to make, ready on the table in 30 minutes, and most importantly, it really can be delicious. I want to bring the joy back to home cooking and show you how satisfying, affordable and quick food can be. One of the best tips my Mum taught me was how to respect food by not wasting it. She also taught me how to conjure up a meal out of very little and how to turn leftovers into meals that are actually delicious and you look forward to eating. This is always at the heart of my cooking. I’m
happy to spend a bit of extra money on a few good-quality ingredients, such as well-sourced meat and dairy, but really, I’m a frugal shopper. I base my meals on foods stocked in my cupboard and freezer, along with fresh seasonal vegetables. I’m also a big fan of leftovers and won’t ever waste food. I hope to inspire you to make the most of what you have in the fridge or freezer, rather than feeling obliged to pop out for a particular ingredient because you don’t have it. With a bit of forward planning, you shouldn’t need to go shopping more than once a week and you’ll save money and time in the process. These recipes are not just about eating what’s good for your body, they’re also about enjoying and appreciating the food you put in your mouth. I hope you’ll feel encouraged to have a go at combining nourishing ingredients in inventive and delicious ways, so that every day you can eat well and eat happy! l
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‘I want to bring the joy back to home cooking’
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FOODIES MELISSA HEMSLEY
Hoisin duck pancakes While it would be impossible to recreate true Chinese-style duck at home, this version comes with a big thumbs-up from my family. It uses duck breasts, speedy to cook and widely available. The best thing about the recipe is the hoisin sauce, brightened with orange juice or any citrus and creaminess from the tahini. It’s simple to make and tastes like the real deal. It’s such a versatile sauce too.
Serves 4 4 duck breasts (skin on; total 600g) 1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder A good pinch of sea salt
For the hoisin sauce 6 tbsp tamari 3 tbsp tahini 1½ tbsp maple syrup 3 tbsp orange juice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1½ tsp toasted sesame oil 1½ tsp Chinese fivespice powder
Preheat the oven to fan 200°C. With a sharp knife, score the fat of each duck breast in a criss-cross pattern, then rub in half the fivespice powder and salt. l Make the hoisin sauce by whisking all the ingredients together in a bowl, then taste for seasoning and set aside. l Heat up a wide, ovenproof frying pan to a high heat (no oil needed) and place the duck breasts, skin side down, in the pan. Sprinkle over the rest of the spice and salt. Cook for 3 minutes or until most of the fat has rendered, and the duck skin is golden. l Turn the duck breasts over and cook for a further 30 seconds to l
seal the other side. Place the pan in the oven for the duck to finish cooking – 8 minutes for rare or 10 minutes for medium rare – then remove the duck and leave to rest on a chopping board for 10 minutes. Pour any excess duck fat from the pan into a bowl. l Cut the duck breasts into thin slices, sprinkle with chilli flakes and place on a serving plate with the hoisin sauce in a bowl. Put the wraps on another plate and place the sliced cucumber and spring onions in a separate bowl. Let everyone assemble their own pancakes, pouring or spooning the hoisin sauce over the duck before adding the other ingredients.
To serve 12 small wraps of your choice Chilli flakes, to taste 1 cucumber, sliced into matchsticks 6 spring onions, sliced into matchsticks
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Use leftover sauce to brighten up veggie dishes
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FOODIES MELISSA HEMSLEY
Grilled mackerel with tamarind ginger greens This dish is inspired by my Filipino Mum who loves tamarind and always fed it to me as a child. Its tangy sweet-sour flavour perfectly cuts through the oily mackerel, which you could swap with another type of fish fillet, or use whole fish instead. The ginger greens are lovely hot or warm, or eaten cold as a salad.
Serves 4 1 tsp coconut oil or ghee 8 mackerel fillets Sea salt and black pepper
For the Filipino-style tamarind sauce 3 tbsp tamarind paste 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 tbsp maple syrup 2 tbsp tamari Juice of 1 lime For the greens 1½ tbsp coconut oil 4 spring onions, sliced (green parts saved to garnish)
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3cm piece of ginger, finely chopped 1 head of broccoli, cut into small florets 250g green beans, trimmed 250g sugar snap peas or mangetout, chopped
To serve 1 large handful of mixed fresh herbs (such as coriander, basil or mint), finely chopped 1 large handful of cashews, toasted and roughly chopped
l Preheat the grill to high. Add the oil to a baking tray and pop under the grill for a few minutes to melt. l Whisk the sauce ingredients in a bowl and set aside. Toast the nuts in a dry saucepan and then set aside. l For the greens, melt the 1½ tbsp of oil in the saucepan,add the white parts of the spring onions, garlic and ginger and fry over a medium heat for 30 seconds. l Tip in all the green vegetables and stir-fry for 5 minutes until just tender. Add a splash of water if the greens are getting dry and sticking to the pan. l Meanwhile, place the mackerel fillets on the greased baking tray, skin side up, season with salt and pepper then grill for 4–5 minutes until just cooked through. l When the greens are just tender, pour in the tamarind sauce and stir. Increase the heat and simmer for about 30 seconds to heat through. Taste for seasoning, adding a little more tamari if you’d like it saltier. l Serve the greens with the fish, scattered with the green parts of the spring onions and the fresh herbs and toasted nuts.
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Swap in any green veg you have in the fridge to suit your tastes foodies 29
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FOODIES MELISSA HEMSLEY
Prepare in advance and freeze to get ahead on dinner party cooking
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Little chocolate pots These lovely little pots are not only rich and smooth, they use just five ingredients and take only five minutes to make. They are perfect for preparing ahead of time as they need to set in the fridge, then all you need to do is pull them out at pudding time and grate over a little chocolate to serve. You can use any type of milk here. Nut milk makes the mixture moussier and lighter. Coconut milk makes it really rich and quite thick but without tasting coconutty. These pots will keep, covered, in the fridge or freezer for a few days. If freezing, allow to defrost for 40 minutes before serving. Serves 4 180ml any milk 140g dark (70%–85%) chocolate, broken into squares 3 tbsp maple syrup 1 egg 1 tsp vanilla extract
To serve Sea salt flakes 1 handful of fresh raspberries or cherries or a mixture
l Gently heat the milk in a saucepan for about 45 seconds until hot all the way through. l Place 120g of the chocolate in a high-powered blender or food processor with the maple syrup, egg and vanilla extract. l Very carefully pour a quarter of the hot milk into the blender or food processor (or use a ladle, if you prefer) and blend until smooth, then repeat, adding a quarter of the milk at a time, until all the milk is combined and the mixture is silky smooth. (You need to add the hot milk slowly so that it doesn’t scramble the egg.) l Pour into four small ramekins or glasses and leave in the fridge for a minimum of 1½ hours, or 1 hour in the freezer, to set. l When you’re ready to serve, grate over the remaining dark chocolate or top with a sprinkling of sea salt flakes or a few fresh raspberries or cherries.
Eat Happy by Melissa Hemsley, published by Ebury Press, £20. foodies 31
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Mother’s Day Special
SPAS OLD COURSE HOTEL & SPA St Andrews, KY16 9SP www.oldcoursehotel.co.uk Fresh from a £8m revamp, the Old Course Hotel’s Kohler Waters Spa is the first of its kind outside of the US. Enjoy the full thermal suite experience with mum, then give the gift of peace with the Kohler Waters massage.
FAIRMONT ST ANDREWS St Andrews, KY16 8PN www.fairmont.com The renowned 5-star resort has it all, and the spa at Fairmont St Andrews certainly doesn’t let the side down. If your mum deserves only the best, spend the day exploring Fairmont’s spa, from relaxing in the aromatherapy steam room, to taking a dip in the indoor pool or laying back in the Jacuzzi. Complete the day with a bespoke massage side by side in one of the double treatment rooms.
two Our round-up of spa days for are perfect for a dose of bonding time
ZEN 84 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1EL www.zen-lifestyle.com Enjoy all the benefits of a luxury spa without leaving the city centre at Zen. The Ultimate Zen package promises it all, from a bespoke facial to massage and mani-pedi, and is sure to leave tired mums feeling like a new woman.
ARCHERFIELD HOUSE North Berwick, EH39 5HQ www.archerfieldhouse.com A trip to Archerfield’s signature spa, Fletcher’s Cottage, is unlike any other: a peaceful, cosy country retreat full of log burners and decadent robes, a day at Fletcher’s is the dream gift for any mum seeking some space from the everyday. Try the exfoliating Rasul mud experience for two for some quality time with an added dose of relaxation.
✽ NORTON HOUSE HOTEL & SPA Ingliston, EH28 8LX www.handpickedhotels.co.uk If the annual guilt has set in, and you’ve just realised how many Sunday lunches you missed this year, spoil the most important woman in your life
this Mother’s Day. The Two’s Company spa package at Norton House has a little bit of everything: a full body salt scrub, express facial and full body massage, topped off with a two course lunch to boot. foodies 35
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FOODIES MARIANNE STEWART
Keeping it Sw e e t
Creative pastry chef Marianne Stewart makes sure no one need miss out with her nourishing cake recipes. They might be free from gluten and dairy, but they have flavour in abundance
Ginger-chocolate & orange frozen tart Makes a 20cm tart
For the crust 45g coconut oil 65g vegan dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) 15g maple syrup 200g gluten-free stem ginger cookies For the filling Juice of 1 orange, Juice of 1 lime Finely grated zest of 1 orange and 1 lime 40g coconut oil, melted 130g golden icing sugar 350g coconut cream For the candied orange slices 225g golden caster sugar 1 unwaxed orange, halved and cut into roughly 3â€“4mm thick slices
l Prepare the candied orange slices at least one day in advance. Place the sugar and 150g water into a small pan and heat to dissolve the sugar and bring the syrup just to the boil. l When the syrup reaches the boil, add the orange slices and cover them with foil or baking parchment to keep them submerged in the syrup. Simmer very gently for 45 min, or until translucent. Remove from the heat and allow the fruit to cool in the pan. l Transfer to an airtight container and chill for at least 24 hours before using (so the orange slices can absorb the syrup). The candied orange slices will keep for up to 4 weeks in the fridge. Drain and slice into quarters before using. l Gently melt together the coconut oil and chocolate in the microwave. Once melted, add the maple syrup and stir thoroughly. l Process the ginger cookies in a blender or food processor until fine. Tip into a bowl, add the chocolate
mixture and blend well with a silicone spatula. l Line the base of a 20-cm loosebased tart tin with a circle of baking parchment. Tip the chocolate crust mixture into the centre and use your fingertips to press into the bottom and up the sides until it is evenly lined.Place in the freezer while you make the filling. l For the filling, mix together the juices, zests, coconut oil and icing sugar. l In a separate bowl, whip the coconut cream with a hand-held electric whisk for 30 seconds to loosen, add the juice mix, and whip again for 1â€“2 minutes until wellblended and forming soft peaks. Tip the mixture into the well-chilled tart case, spread out evenly and freeze for 4â€“5 hours until firm. l Before serving, place the tart in the fridge for 30 minutes to soften slightly. Decorate with candied orange slices, then remove from the tart case and cut with a large warmed knife.
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Prep your orange slices a day before to get ahead foodies 37
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FOODIES MARIANNE STEWART
Courgette, gooseberry & elderflower layer cake Gooseberry and elderflower have such a short season, but they coincide perfectly in early summer. This cake makes the most of the seasonal synergy; but if you’re not at just the right time of year, you can use frozen gooseberries for the compote and bottled elderflower cordial is available year-round.
Makes a 15cm cake, to serve 6-8
For the cake 2 medium courgettes Finely grated zest of 1 lime 150g golden caster sugar Pinch of sea salt 3 eggs 100g rice flour 40g teff flour 60g ground almonds 3 tsp ground flaxseed ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda Rapeseed oil for greasing 2–3 tbsp elderflower cordial Fresh elderflowers, to decorate For the gooseberry compote 250g gooseberries, topped and tailed 3 tbsp elderflower cordial 1 tsp agar flakes 50g golden granulated sugar For the elderflower cream 350g coconut cream, chilled 1–2 tbsp elderflower cordial
l For the cake, grate (but don’t peel) the courgettes coarsely. Layer the grated courgette up between double thicknesses of kitchen paper or clean tea towels and press down to extract the juice. Allow to dry for about 30 min, making sure the courgette is well drained. Weigh out 275g into a bowl, and add the lime zest to this. l Add the sugar and salt to the eggs in a separate bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for 5 minutes, or until pale and doubled in volume. Fold through the grated courgette until well incorporated. Sift together both flours, the ground almonds, flaxseed and bicarbonate of soda and fold through the cake batter. Leave for 10 minutes. l Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease 3 x 15-cm round sandwich tins with rapeseed oil and line with baking parchment. Divide the batter evenly between the tins and bake for 35 min, or until browned and the tops spring back when pressed. l Allow the cakes to cool in the tins until just warm. Remove from the tins and cool completely. l For the compote, place the gooseberries in a small pan with
the cordial and sprinkle the agar flakes on top. Leave for 5 minutes for the flakes to absorb the liquid, then heat without stirring until the mixture reaches the boil. Add the sugar and cook gently until dissolved. Simmer stirring occasionally for 10 min until the fruit is softened and the agar has dissolved. It will still look runny, but thickens on cooling. Scrape into a bowl and cool until thickened. Cover and chill until needed. l For the cream, mix the coconut cream and cordial together and whisk lightly until aerated and thick. If it is too loose, chill before layering. l To assemble, slice the top of the sponges so they are straight and remove the baking parchment. Place the first sponge on a serving plate and brush a little of the cordial on top. Pipe or spoon the elderflower cream in intervals on top and fill in the gaps with the gooseberry compote. Top with the next sponge, brush with cordial and top in the same way with the cream and compote. l Place the final layer of sponge with the bottom crust side up, and brush with any remaining cordial. Pipe the remaining cream on top in large peaks and dot with the remaining compote.Decorate with elderflowers and serve.
Nourish Cakes by Marianne Stewart, published by Quadrille, £15. Photo © Catherine Frawley
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Try using frozen gooseberries for speed
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MARIANNE STEWART FOODIES
Mango & passion fruit cheesecake The quality of the mangoes makes a difference with this dessert, so pick the best-quality and ripest you can find. This is a super tangy and bright cheesecake that needs nothing extra with it, except maybe a little passion fruit pulp and edible flowers to top it off if you’re feeling colourful. Makes 8 cheesecakes
For the base 45g whole amonds, unskinned and toasted 15g coconut oil 10g cashew nut butter 10g maple syrup 55g oats 30g coconut sugar or soft brown sugar ½ tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of sea salt 5g dessicated coconut For the cheesecake 95g cashew nuts, soaked in cold water for 1 hour 5 ripe passion fruit 2 medium ripe mangoes, peeled, chopped and puréed, about 340g Pinch of salt 80g coconut oil, melted 75g honey 80g coconut cream
l Preheat the oven 180°C. Melt the coconut oil then add the cashew nut butter and maple syrup and whisk together. Finely grind the almonds and oats in a blender then add the coconut sugar, cinnamon and salt and blend. Add the wet mixture and blend again until the mix comes together. Mix in the coconut by hand then divide the mixture into an 8-hole round silicone mould (each about 5cm in diameter) and press down. l For the filling, cut the passion fruit open and strain the pulp through a fine sieve into a bowl. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the pulp. Add the juice to a small pan along with the mango purée and cook over a medium-low heat for 10–15 minutes until the purée has reduced and
thickened. Weigh out 240g and set aside to cool. l Drain the cashews and blend in a blender with the salt until as fine as possible. Add the coconut oil and blend again until smooth. Add the syrup or honey, cooled fruit purée and the coconut cream and blend until smooth. Mix in the reserved passion fruit pulp by hand. l Fill the cavities of the silicone moulds to the top and chill the cheesecakes overnight before serving, or in the freezer for 2 or more hours. If frozen, they are easier to demould, but leave to soften in the fridge for an hour or two before serving. They will keep well in a covered container in the fridge for 2–3 days.
Top with edible flowers for extra flair
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JAMS, CHUTNEYS & PICKLES FOODIES
Spice up a sandwich, tart up your toast or class up your cheeseboard with these Scottish preserves ARRAN FINE FOODS www.paterson-arran.com Sourced straight from it’s Isle of Arran home, Arran Fine Foods’ Apple & Ale chutney is a delicious alchemy of ripe apples and locally brewed Arran Ale. Pair it with lamb or beef to really bring out the natural juicy flavours while the apples add a balancing hint of sweetness. THAT’S JAMMY www.fb.com/thatsjammy Taste sunshine on Leith all year round with That’s Jammy’s Strawberry and Prosecco Jam. This sweet and sophisticated conserve is the finishing touch to any brunch spread, but also adds a dash of aromatic romance to even a single humble slice of toast on a rainy day. GALLOWAY LODGE www.gallowaylodge.co.uk The family-run Galloway Lodge has quality at the forefront, producing all of their jams and chutneys in small batches for flavour.No cheese board is complete without their fig chutney, which also adds a dose of instant class to any sandwich. Try it on baguette with brie and crisp green apple.
AYE PICKLED www.fb.com/ayepickled Good gut health doesn’t always come easy, but with Aye Pickled’s innovative homemade offerings, the journey is sure to be delicious. Make sure to try the Thai Shallots, pickled with lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves for a touch of tang to freshen up any plate. MRS. BRIDGES www.mrsbridges.co.uk The classic taste of damson shines vibrantly in Mrs Bridge’s jewel-toned Damson Preserve. The tart, rosy flavours are bottled in ribbon tied jars for nostalgic charm, inspired by the legacy of Mrs. Bridges, a prominent household chef from the Victorian era whose lifetime of passionate home cooking lives on in these delicious conserves. EDINBURGH PRESERVES www.edinburgh-preserves.com Edinburgh Preserves traditionally-made products range from jams to chutneys to pâté, all packed full of rustic flavour. Try their tomato and red pepper infused chutney, created especially to go with first class Scottish cheeses. We love it with a strong smoked cheddar. foodies 43
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PIZZA 1926 1/4 PAGE.indd 1
EDINBURGH PERTHSHIRE SOUTHSIDE FOODIES FOODIES FOCUS
HEAD OUT SOUTH The lowdown on the Southside best and brightest in Edinburgh & Glasgow AIZLE 107-109 St Leonard’s Street EH8 9QY www.aizle.co.uk Sit back and relax: you’re in safe hands at Aizle. Instead of fretting over menu choices, diners get the opportunity to taste their way through an ever-changing 5-course set menu. By focusing on the best of the season, the talented chefs curate a range of exciting dishes resulting in a unique degustation experience you won’t soon forget. FIELD 41 W Nicolson Street, EH8 9DB www.fieldrestaurant.co.uk Michelin-standard food, excellent wine, and top Scottish produce Field brings all of these elements together with a dash of their trademark innovative playfulness. From braised short rib with bone marrow mash to pumpkin with charred rosemary popcorn, all of your favourites are reinvented with Field’s signature creative charm. SOUTHPOUR 1-5 Newington Road EH9 1QR www.southpour.co.uk Cosy and friendly, with a wideranging menu serving up comforting, hearty dishes from brunch-time through ‘til suppertime, Southpour is on hand to help with your every need. Classic cocktails are supplied in abundance, while their calendar of weekly events ranges from quiz
Above (clockwise): Aizle, Southpour, Field nights to live acoustic sets, so there’s always something to keep you entertained. 56 NORTH 2 W Crosscauseway, EH8 9JP www.fiftysixnorth.co.uk Gin is the name of the game at 56 North. With an internationally collated spirit list that boasts one
of the largest gin collections in the world, there’s enough juniper to get you dizzy – luckily, their expert staff are armed and ready with the knowledge to help you discover your new favourite. Be adventurous with your tonics and garnishes too for a truly bespoke G&T. foodies 45
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GLASGOW SOUTHSIDE FOODIES
GLASGOW THE BUNGO Nithsdale Road G41 2AL www.thebungo.co.uk This friendly gastropub makes for a vibrant addition to Glasgow’s Southside, boasting a relaxed bar area, welcoming restaurant, and the Bungo-lo, their signature in-house event venue. A wideranging, internationally inspired menu offers the likes of Cajun chicken tacos and Peruvian pork belly, while the cocktail list is spilling over with unique drinks at pocket friendly prices. A range of themed dining events, wine tastings and quiz nights mark out the Bungo-lo as the spot to be. BLACK DOVE 67 Kilmarnock Road G41 3YR www.blackdovedining.com From brunch-time eggs to Saturday night steaks, stylish Southside restaurant Black Dove serves up delicious dishes all day long. The biggest attraction, however, has to be their new Bottomless Brunch offer. Choose from baked eggs with ox cheek, French toast with either crab and Greek yoghurt or bacon and maple syrup, and, of course, the classic Full Scottish. Complete all this with a bottomless glass of bubbles, Black Dove lager, or apricot ‘Brunch Punch’, all for £27.50. Cheers!
bakes, their famous Turkish Eggs, and daily specials, which might include the likes of confit duck leg hash and glammed up pancakes. The brew is some of the best around, too but if you’re looking for a table be quick: there’s rarely a quiet day.
Above (clockwise): Cafe Strange Brew, The Rum Shack, Black Dove CAFE STRANGE BREW 1082 Pollokshaws Road G41 3XA www.fb.com/cafestrangebrew Unique, creative and a big favourite amongst locals, if this is what makes a cafe strange, we’re sold. Choose from homemade
THE RUM SHACK 657-659 Pollokshaws Road G41 2AB www.rumshackglasgow. com If the weather is taking its toll, warm up at The Rum Shack, Glasgow’s original Caribbean bar and restaurant. If all the tempting choices on the exotic menu leave you in a tizzy, opt for the Hampden Estate sharing board, loaded up with jerk pork, chickpea curry and haggis balls, to name just a few. Pair this with a Caribbean rum from the impressive selection and you’re onto a winner. foodies 47
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CHEF Q&A ROSS STOVOLD
Win a one night stay with dinner at The Torridon on p. 13
Head Chef at The Torridon’s 1887 Restaurant, Ross Stovold is all about championing the local: from the hotel’s kitchen garden and farm, to seasonal produce from neighbouring suppliers
How did you get into cooking? I was brought up in a family where meal times were an important part of the day, so cooking and food has always been a big part of my life. I used to love trying new foods and even now I’m as curious and excited as when I was a small boy. As a chef, having a connection to the ingredients is integral and one’s ability to continue learning is only hampered by yourself. Who is your biggest inspiration as a chef? My biggest inspiration as a chef is all the guys I worked under and alongside, who were uninspiring, aggressive and unapproachable. I rely on my team being
the best I can make them, so I ensure they have a happy, creative and inspiring environment to work in. Long gone are the army like dictatorships in kitchens led by ego driven chefs; I am part of my team and I want to be the boss I would like to work for.
be cooking it in a water bath. Water is a muchoverlooked commodity in the world of ingredients. For example, a stock, which is the base of countless preparations, is mostly made with water, so bad water means bad stock which results in a lot of inconsistent food.
What is your favourite Scottish ingredient to work with and why? My favourite ingredient is quite surprising. We are extremely fortunate to be on our own water supply from the hills around the resort, which means we have our own spring water. Cooking is all about understanding the fundamentals of the craft; if you can’t roast a piece of meat over a flame, then you shouldn’t
Can you tell us a little more about the produce grown and meat reared at The Torridon? We have a herd of Highland cattle on the resort, the meat is used in both the hotel and inn. It’s an important part of what we do because it helps the teams in the kitchens understand and respect the ingredient. It’s not just a generic product, it’s a life we have looked after, and we need to respect
that when we butcher and cook it. We are hoping to expand to pigs and goats soon, too. Do you think guests are more conscious of where their food comes from now? Provenance is a hugely important part of how we work and it is true that more customers are aware of where their food comes from and want to know where we get ours. I hope that the few who have never thought too deeply about this will leave us with a better understanding of where their food comes from. Scotland has some of the best produce in the world, so when it is on your door step, it’s a very humbling experience to use that natural larder.
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ROSS STOVOLD CHEF Q&A
Parsnip cake, crème fraiche and tarragon Parsnip and tarragon may seem like a strange combination for a dessert, however the palate cleansing tarragon and intrinsically sweet parsnip are a perfect match. Serves 4
For the tarragon granita 50g fresh tarragon 150ml water 50g caster sugar For the crème fraiche ice cream 300ml full fat milk 200g crème fraiche 3 egg yolks 100g sugar For the parsnip cake 60g grated parsnip 60g plain flour 1 egg yolk 1 egg 30g double cream Pinch of salt 300g golden syrup 50g butter, melted
l For the tarragon granita, heat the water, add the sugar and cook until dissolved then chill. Once cold, blend with the tarragon, pass through a sieve then freeze in a tray. l Once frozen, use a fork to scrape the surface to form a fine granita. Store in a container with a lid in the freezer until needed. l For the ice cream, whisk the yolks and sugar together, add the milk to a pot and bring to the boil. Once boiling, slowly pour the milk
over the yolk mixture while stirring with a whisk. Return to the pan and cook on a low heat, stirring constantly, until it reaches 85°C. l Pour through a fine sieve into a bowl and cool over a bowl of ice. l Once the mix has cooled, add the crème fraiche. Churn in an ice cream machine then store in the freezer til ready to serve. l Preheat the oven to 160°C. For the cake, mix all the dry
ingredients together then carefully fold in the wet ingredients. Line a mould or baking tin with greaseproof paper and pour in the mix. l Bake in the oven for around 30 minutes, or until the a skewer pushed into the centre of the cake comes out clean. l Let the ice cream sit at room temperature for a few minutes to soften, then serve the cake warm with a quenelle of ice cream and sprinkling of granita.
‘It’s a very humbling experience to use this natural larder’
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SPIRITS Since 1886 Award-winning Franklin & Sons Ginger Beer has been brewed with malted barley to ensure the deepest flavour and aroma of ginger is delivered. The addition of a squeeze of lemon introduces subtle citrus notes, leaving a refreshing finish. Serve this vibrant mixer with your favourite premium rum over large cubed ice to enhance the rich and complex flavours of your spirit.
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ST ANDREW PERTHSHIRE SQUARE FOODIES FOODIES FOCUS FOCUS
BE SQUARE Explore all of the foodie hideouts Edinburgh’s burgeoning St Andrew Square has to offer with a little help from the Edinburgh Trams WAHACA 16 South St Andrew Street www.wahaca.co.uk With a cantina-style decor, fiesta atmosphere, and Mexican street food inspired menu, Wahaca is ideal for group dining. If you’re willing to share, the tapas-style small plates menu offers an array of mouthwatering flavours, from smoky pork pibil tacos to sticky hisbiscus glazed chicken wings. THE IVY ON THE SQUARE 6 St Andrew Square www.theivyedinburgh.com The original London it-restaurant has taken Edinburgh by storm at its new St Andrew Square location. Offering up brunch, afternoon tea, cocktails and a wide-ranging a la carte menu, it has it all. We can’t get enough of their signature shepherd’s pie topped with the ultimate Cheddar mash. THE PERMIT ROOM 3a St Andrew Square www.dishoom.com A cocktail bar for the discerning drinker, The Permit Room below Dishoom offers exclusive tipples in an elegant and welcoming speakeasy style location. Classic cocktails are given the Bombay treatment, from a chilli-infused take on an Espresso Martini to cocktails sweetened with chai syrup.
The Ivy on the Square Gaucho The Permit Room
VAPIANO 7 South St David Street uk.vapiano.com Particular about your pasta? Picky about your pizza? Vapiano is for you. Their self-service concept means you can tailor every dish to suit you, however, freshness is still at the forefront of their menu. All the pasta is made in-house daily and every table is adorned with its own miniature herb garden.
GAUCHO 4a St Andrew Square www. gauchorestaurants. com Steak is the order of the day at Gaucho, the latest addition to St Andrew Square. A luxuriously decorated dining space, the speciality beef on offer here is some of the best in town. Amp up your meat with additions including truffle and black pepper butter, Argentine red prawns, or chimichurri and pair it all with your choice from over 200 exclusive Argentinian wines.
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Antique wooden spoons hark back to the historic heritage of the house
THE TALK OF THE
I TOWN Ros Byam Shaw celebrates the unique charm and style of the English townhouse complete with a splash of colour
f there is one thing above all else that characterizes the English townhouse, it is stairs. Where land is valuable and space limited, you build up or you dig down. The skyscrapers that increasingly dominate and define the urban skyline are one symptom, and loft conversions their townhouse shadow. It has long been common for a townhouse to have as many as five storeys, depending on its period and grandeur.
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‘These rooms are confident, unconvential, joyful’
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STYLED INDIVIDUALLY FOR YOU
HAND-MADE KITCHENS BEDROOMS BATHROOMS HOME OFFICES ENTERTAINMENT ROOMS COMMISSIONED PIECES OF FURNITURE INSTALLATIONS THROUGHOUT SCOTLAND
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www.davidldouglas.com 02/03/2018 16:03
‘The visual impact is bold but the design is subtle’ What to do with this old-fashioned arrangement, now that the kitchen is the family hub, is a familiar townhouse dilemma. Do you stay true to an outmoded layout, or do you acknowledge the modern preeminence of the kitchen by fitting out a former reception room with oven, dishwasher, refrigerator, and all the paraphernalia of contemporary cuisine? Confident, unconvential, joyful, these rooms are put together by someone who loves pattern and colour, and knows how to use them. You could call the first kitchen a hotchpotch, but look more carefully and you start to appreciate how the grid of the floor is echoed by the cushions, and how the reds, greens, and blues of the wallpaper are picked up and amplified
Perfect English Townhouse by Ros Byam Shaw, published by Ryland Peters & Small, £20.40. Photo © Jan Baldwin
by the china and the colour blocks of the cupboards and the table. The visual impact is bold, but the design is subtle. Vertical living is the price you pay for all the advantages of urban culture – pavements and parks, cafés and restaurants, theatres and museums, shops – and for the privilege of your own front door onto the street, your own back garden, and your own patch of territory from ground to sky without other households above or below, or both. Stairs are the inevitable corollary, and the higher your ceilings and the bigger your house, the more of them there will be. Something to remember as you climb your way up the old Apples and Pears to find your phone. ● foodies 55
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Time to taste Our top restaurant picks to try this month FINSBAY FLATIRON The concept of Finsbay Flatiron is simple: choose how you’d like your steak cooked, add a few sides, a sauce, and you’re good to go. The menu centres around the flatiron steak – a cut from the shoulder of the cow that neither of us were familiar with – but the knowledgeable staff quickly explained what we’d been missing out on. We took one mediumrare at the chef’s recommendation, and one rare. The steaks were expertly cooked, and came sliced and fanned out to reveal their beautifully
rosy interiors. The flatiron is a lean but tender cut, akin to a fillet, with an almost buttery texture. The price is much easier on the wallet than a fillet though: a flatiron at Finsbay sets you back only £8 Monday Thursday and a single tenner at the weekend. Peppercorn and béarnaise sauces couldn’t be faulted. Every side (£3-4 each) sounded better than the last. The pick of the lot for us were the macaroni and black pudding bon bons, though the double-dip hollandaise and parmesan chips were also excellent – we’re talking proper
shavings of parmesan here. Our only qualm was that most dishes arrived with a healthy sprinkling of sea salt flakes, which at times became a bit overpowering. There’s a huge range of wines, cocktails and beers, including the feel-good Brewgooder lager (all profits go to providing clean water in Malawi) so no matter your palate, there’s always the perfect pair to your steak. They’re on a temporary lease for the moment, but fingers crossed Finsbay Flatiron will be here for good. 160 Woodlands Road, Glasgow G3 6LF www.finsbayflatiron.com Gary McIntyre
RESTAURANT REVIEW FOODIES
TWILIGHT TEA Despite the unpredictable Edinburgh weather, The Garden, The Principal Charlotte Square’s botanically-inspired space means you can always feel like you’re dining al fresco. Decorated with hanging vines and wicker chairs, it’s a beautifully unique dining room. Carrying on this distinctive feel, they have added their own spin to the traditional Afternoon Tea, the aptly named Twilight Tea, served up from noon til 10pm. Thoughtfully offering omnivorous, veggie and vegan menus, the savouries boast a creative Middle Eastern feel. From a plant pot of hummus with baby veg ‘growing’ from it to bold Merguez and dukkah sausage rolls, they have really
expanded the boundaries of a traditional high tea. The fresh amuse bouche of tomato water with chive oil was fabulous, as were the pickled kohlrabi parcels, while the inventive combo of mozzarella, pear and mint blew us away. The veggie options were as delicious and well executed as the meat options, with not a lazy cheese and onion tarlet in sight. Unfortunately the creative side didn’t seem to translate as well when it came to sweets, which were offered in the form of traditional cakes chosen from a separate display. While perfectly pleasant, they didn’t quite match up to the innovation of the savouries and we missed the chance to try the beautiful Levantine flavours in sweet form. Overall, it is an excellent tasting experience in a beautiful location that really brings the Afternoon Tea into the modern sphere. Charlotte Lane, Edinburgh EH2 4QZ www.atpizza.com Vicky Axelson
Vapiano deconstructs the idea of the traditional Italian eatery and builds it back from the ground up. The concept is difficult for a foodie to resist; in lieu of menus with table service, experienced chefs stand ready behind glass counters so you can watch the magic happen, tailoring the dish to suit. We started with a classic Aperol spritz and a strawberry bellini while taking in the chic urban atmosphere. My expectations skyrocketed after I tasted the fresh mozzarella and flawless bruschetta in our antipasti, and the dishes that followed did not disappoint. Vapiano makes their pasta in-house daily and the cognac pasta was fresh and creamy with rich bacon and peas. My date ordered a crudo pizza which took a bit longer but was well worth the wait. The prosciutto and Grana Padano were irresistible with fresh rocket and a thin, crispy crust. The portion sizes are enormous, but we were remiss to skip dessert. We got the cioccolata blanca and the tiramisu, which is painstakingly prepared in house daily. Even on top of all the food we had already enjoyed, that extra course sealed the deal. We will be back soon. 7 S St David Street, Edinburgh EH2 2BD uk.vapiano.com Emily J Hall
THE SEAFOOD TRAIL The freshest of mussels or a luxurious seafood platter? Create your own culinary adventure and explore the Seafood Trail along the shores of Argyll. Set amidst stunning scenery, you’ll discover a warm welcome and food which showcases the very best of fresh local produce.
Cairnbaan Hotel, by Lochgilphead • Creggans Inn, Strachur Dunvalanree, Carradale • Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, Cairndow Luss Seafood Bar • Seafood Cabin, Skipness The Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin • Royal an Lochan, Tighnabruaich
COOK SCHOOLS FOODIES
Turn up the
HEAT Take a little trip below the equator and be inspired to spice up your cooking with these masterclasses
MIDWEEK MEALS NEED NEVER BE BORING AGAIN
NICK NAIRN COOK SCHOOL
EDINBURGH NEW TOWN COOKERY SCHOOL
nicknairncookschool.com Nick Nairn Cook School’s Taste of Morocco course unlocks all the subtle spices, bitter herbs and fruity finishes of Africa’s gateway. Take on the challenge and learn to prepare a three course meal full of Moroccan flavours, including herby chermoula prawns, hearty authentic lamb tagine, and a divine orange and almond cake.
ents.co.uk Discover the tricks to master the light and fragrant flavours of Vietnam with the Edinburgh New Town Cookery School’s one day Vietnamese masterclass. Learn to balance the five ‘taste senses’ of Vietnamese cooking - sweet, salty, spicy, sour, and bitter - and soon you’ll be ready to master a plentitude of delicate and diverse flavour profiles.
CHAOPHRAYA chaophraya.co.uk Thai food is a world unto itself, and there is nowhere better to immerse yourself in this delicious cuisine than in Edinburgh’s favourite Thai restaurant, Chaophraya. The experts will greet you with fruit punch and share their culinary secrets, from where to source the best fresh Thai ingredients in the city to a guided tutorial through the preparation of three tasty dishes. The session ends with a tasting session, and you can rest assured you will leave with a smile on your face, too.
LET’S COOK SCOTLAND letscookscotland.co.uk Unlock the full spectrum of flavours from the subcontinent in Let’s Cook Scotland’s Introduction to Indian Cooking course. From dal to chutney, you’ll be guided through an array of diverse delicacies. Make sure to alert your family and friends– you’ll need them all on standby to help you eat the bounty of dishes you take home at the end. foodies 59
E DIN BURGH CORN EXCHANG E T H URSDAY 27 T H SEPTEMBER 2018
THE NATIONAL CELEBRATION FOR THE BUSINESS OF BEER B OOK YOU R TABLE NOW
The new classics Inspired by the flavours of the Levant, new Edinburgh hotspot BABA shares their spiced up reimaginings of classic cocktails
Bloody Mariam 35ml vodka 15g Baba’s spice mix (harissa, lemon, ras-el-hanout, sumac) 250ml tomato juice ● Add the tomato juice and vodka to a
shaker, add spices to taste, and shake. ● Pour into serving glass and garnish
with a sprinkling of za’atar.
Peach Babalini 125ml Prosecco 40ml Baba’s peach puree (peach, thyme, nutmeg, vanilla, almond) ● Mix pureed peach with
thyme, nutmeg, vanilla and almond extract to taste. ● Pour the prosecco into a flute and top with 40ml peach puree.
Olive Oil Negroni 23ml Sacred Juniper Gin 23ml Absentroux Vermouth 23ml Sacred Rosehip Cup liqueur 23ml Campari washed with extra virgin olive oil ● Add all the ingredients to a shaker. Add ice, cap
it and shake hard. ● Add cubed ice to a negroni glass and pour over.
Garnish with orange and thyme. 62 foodies
TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
TOP TIP Sample the finest gin cocktails at The Finnieston to help get you in the mood for Sam Smith at the Glasgow Hydro this month.
HIGHLIGHTS WINE THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...
Raise a toast to mum with our top wines under £15
15ml bramble liqueur 10ml Sipsmith gin 15ml Cassis 5ml sugar syrup 5 drops of oak essence Mixed dry spices 50ml Whispering Angel rosé l Add all ingredients to a mixing glass and stir. l Pour into a goblet glass and add one big block of ice. l Garnish with a dried fig slice and olive.
By Rabble Edinbugrh Bar Manager Steven Cooney
Cassis & Oak
LAUNCHING THIS MONTH FINSBAY FLATIRON GLASGOW Finsbay Flatiron has a very straight forward menu. Apart from Sunday roasts, they only serve flat iron steaks. These are priced at £8 during the week and £10 from Friday to Sunday. The beef is locally sourced and Scottish. Diners can add sauces and sides such as red cabbage ‘slaw and double cooked chips. www.finsbayflatiron.com
FINN & BEAR EDINBURGH Created by the same team who run The Pantry, Finn and Bear serves brunch, lunch, dinner and drinks on The Shore in Leith. As well as posh fry ups and eggs Benedict-based breakfasts, the chefs bang out upmarket bar food. We’ve got an eye on the
smashed crab - hand-picked Uist crab with avo, a poached egg and toasted corn and yellow pepper pico de gallo. Plus, Tuesdays mean quiz night. www.finnandbear.co.uk
CASA MARA EDINBURGH Hold the front page! Casa de Mara is a new Spanish restaurant which doesn’t - as far as we can see - do tapas. Instead of the usual patatas bravas and gambas pil pil, diners at this new restaurant can order up slowcooked pig’s trotters, stuffed squid and a variety of paellas and fideuas. As well as the a la carte, they offer a three course lunch menu for £9.95. A dish of pork, lentils and chorizo sounds rather more inviting than eating a meal deal al desko. www.casademara.com
Paul Mas Reserve Languedoc Rouge Waitrose, £9.39 This warming, spicy red has gorgeous notes of blackberries and chocolate with a gentle dusting of spice. Beautifully balanced, it will suit a wide range of hearty foods, from red meats to hard cheeses. Peter Yealands Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Waitrose, £11.59 A classy, crisp and fresh Sauvignon Blanc, boasting notes of passionfruit and citrus blossom. The perfect partner to any sort of seafood. Paul Mas Vinus Sparkling Piquepoul Chardonnay Morrisons, £10 The perfect bottle for celebrations, this fresh, aromatic fizz has notes of white flowers on the nose, fine bubbles and a zingy and refreshing finish.
JOIN US FOR OUR SUMMER FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL
WITH TOP CHEFS inverleith Park 4, 5, 6 august
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FOODIES FOCUS OUT AND ABOUT
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Photo © Till Britze Photography
Out & about
KIN Edinburgh cocktail lovers discover the capital’s hottest new bar
FAZENDA VIP NIGHT The hot new Brazilian restaurant welcomes local VIPs
VAPIANO GLASGOW LAUNCH Diners explore the brand new city centre destination and sample delicious food
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T H E D N A I S A L L C L ASS I C A N D T H E I N G R E D I E N TS S P E A K FO R T H E M S E LV E S Enjoy 30% OFF A la carte menu when you dine before 30th May 2018. Quote ‘FOODIE’ to redeem.
Tasting Menu Gift Vouchers Gift family or friends with an exquisite five course tasting menu for two or four people from £200. Champagne on arrival followed by five courses expertly prepared and served with accompanying wines.
Reserve your table and buy your gift voucher online at www.bistrodeluxept.co.uk 81 Holyrood Road, Edinburgh, EH8 8AU Terms & Conditions apply. Offer is subject to availability
‘GOOD FOOD DOESN’T HAVE TO COST THE EARTH’ SCOTLAND’S NO.1 FOOD BLOGGER HILARY STURZAKER
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