RESTAURANT Summer romance at Pura Vida

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PURA VIDA

Exeter’s latest café has laidback, sunny charisma by the bucketload. Harriet Noble pays a visit…

If you’re part of the Exeter Instagram community you’ll have seen Pura Vida on your iPhone, even if you haven’t actually visited it in person yet. It’s deservedly been getting a lot of oohs and aahs this summer because of its oh-so pretty interiors. Pinky-coral hues, a surfboard nonchalantly leaning against a wall, rattan furniture, and dollops of greenery; if Pura Vida was a season it would be summer for sure.

Howard Parker is the man behind this joint; the 25-year-old originally from Topsham who owns it, is the chef, and even did all the interiors himself, from the paintings of birds and tigers on the walls, to the slogans on the wall, to the upcycling of various bits of furniture. All to create a world that shows, in his words, a “love for Central America, colour, surf, and Cuban art.”

And there might be a bicycle in the café but this is no painful hipster haven; it’s so much sunnier than that. When I frequent the café, it is all smiles and warmth from the friendly service to the clientele who, because of its location opposite St Sidwell’s Primary School, are mostly mums, dads, a few kids, a dog and some chilled-out students.

The menu is a simple but interesting read, studentleaning but with loads of options to suit all tastes: there are healthy bowls of granola, colourful smoothies, a load of stuff you can have on toast – avocado, peanut butter, chocolate spread, eggs, tofu – plus vegan-friendly fry ups as well as the meaty kind. I opt for a Vida bun with halloumi, rocket, sweet chilli and bacon. The Vida bun looks a bit like a Scotch pancake but feels a lot healthier – perhaps because it’s made from cornflour – while the halloumi, bacon and sweet chilli packs a tasty bunch. On a little bit of a health-kick, I wouldn’t normally opt for lunch with cheese and bacon but it’s a lovely light dish which leaves me energised rather than feeling sluggish.

During my visit, I get chatting to Howard who seems unfazed by setting up a business from scratch during a global pandemic; it’s clear the sunny, chilled décor of his place is an extension of his personality.

“I have always loved the ‘café culture’ from mum taking me as a young child to growing up seeking new independent spots,” says Howard.

“To have my own place was always my ambition; when

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“The name was inspired by my time spent in Costa Rica with my girlfriend”

I was just eight I used to design logos/ menus and explore my passion for interior design.

“But it was during the lockdo wn that this opportunity arose, I used it as a time to get the place together and to build the hype being the ‘light at the end of the tunnel’.”

With a solid background in hospitality and extensive experience working in cafés and restaurants from South Carolina to Newquay, Howard carved out in his head exactly the kind of place he wanted to create.

“The name Pura Vida was inspired by my time spent with my girlfriend in Costa Rica. I was hooked by the commonly used phrase and loved its meaning,” he adds.

For those not familiar, the definition is painted up on the walls: to live a peaceful, simple, uncluttered life with a deep appreciation for nature, family and friends. “After researching its values I thought they were extremely transferable to the vibe of this café,” says Howard.

“I want Pura Vida to have the feel of escape, no matter how your day is going or what the weather is when you step through the door you feel as if you’re in paradise.”

I think we could all do with a bit of that right now. n

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DINING DETAILS Pura Vida, 3 Well Street, Exeter EX4 6QR; Facebook: @PuraVidaCoffeeClub Opening times 8am-5pm, seven days a week Prices from £3.95 – £6.95 Vegetarian/vegan choices Excellently catered for Food/drinks choices Loads of things on toast, fry ups, granola, vida buns and smoothies Service/atmosphere Friendly, informal, super chilled