Ask the Expert: What the Jam-Maker Knows

GOT A GLUT OF SUMMER FRUIT (OR VEG!) AND DON’T KNOW HOW TO USE IT UP? NEVER FEAR, NEWLY PUBLISHED AUTHOR AND COOKERY TEACHER PAM ‘THE JAM’ CORBIN IS HERE TO SHOW US HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF IT...

So, Pam. Take us back: when did preserving become a thing here in the UK?

Since the beginning of time, mankind has preserved foods in some form or another; naturally drying and salting food were both early ways of preserving it. The credit for modern-day preserving – canning and jarring – must go to two great French pioneers. First, to the 18th-century chemist Nicolas Appert, who discovered that sealing food in an airtight container could save it from rotting. Then, and some years later, Louis Pasteur discovered the link between the presence of microorganisms and the spoiling of food, and how pasteurisation could destroy many of the food-spoiling bacteria and enzymes. Home preserving became fashionable in the mid-19th century when bottling jars were patented and became readily available to housewives. Many late-19th century cookery tomes are full of recipes for preserving fruit and vegetables, most of which are still used today.

It’s pretty old, then! But how has the practice of preserving changed over the years?

Over the last halfcentury, perhaps one of the biggest influences for better preserving has been the availability of high-grade jam jars with twist-on lids, for both the food industry and home preservers. Combined with the correct procedures, these allow us to keep preserved foods sound for extended periods of time.

What do you reckon are the best fruits and vegetables to preserve?

Any fresh seasonal glut! Softskinned fruits and berries need to be preserved quickly (i.e. turned into jam within a day or so of them being harvested), but others with tougher skins, like apples, pears and quinces, can be carefully stored for a while before preserving.

Speaking of fruit going off, some – like apples – decay quickly after peeling. How do you stop them from going brown before you use them?

Plunging prepared fruit into lightly acidic or slightly salted water; the juice of half a lemon or a teaspoon of salt should do the trick. However, you will find this browning will disappear with any cooking process.

Are there any fruit or veg that you can’t preserve?

It’s possible to preserve pretty well most fruits and veg in some form or another – although some will be more successful than others! I’ve never preserved potatoes, but I do happen to have an interesting Indian recipe for potato pickle…

What are the most common mistakes people make when preserving?

I find most people overcook their preserves – particularly jams and marmalades. Remember, they set in the jar and not in the pan!

What basic equipment do you need to create your own preserves?

A purpose-made, tapered-sided preserving pan is ideal, although any deep and roomy, heavy-based pan will do. Then you’ll want a couple of long-handled wooden spoons, a sharp knife, reliable scales and a good pouring jug. That should be sufficient to get you started on your preserving journey.

What’s the deal with sterilising the jars: why is it important and how do we do it?

Freshly sterilised jars and lids are key for making sure your preserves keep well and don’t decay. Sterilising is best done in a ‘water bath’ – a large pan filled with hot water – although you can also use the dishwasher or the oven to kill off any nasties.

What is the best way to store a jar of jam or chutney (preserve our preserve, if you will)?

It’s best to keep any preserve in a cool, dark, dry place, as light can make it discolour. It’s also important for the sealed jars to be kept dry, to prevent the lids from going rusty.

What would you recommend a beginner to start out with – jams, chutneys, pickles?

It doesn’t really matter, because they are different processes. But for absolute ease and success, raspberry jam, made with jam sugar (this has a small amount of added pectin), will certainly give confidence to a beginner jam-maker. On the savoury side, bread and butter pickle (lightly spiced cucumbers) is dead easy to make and a brilliant way of using up a surplus of home-grown cucumbers.

Sounds good to us. Now, we’re keen to know all about the strangest preserve you’ve created, please!

Oh gosh, I’ve made and tried so many things over the years. But I do remember in my commercial jam-making days when, by mistake, a pan of gooseberry jam was added to three-fruit marmalade. Although we couldn’t market this ‘four-fruit marmalade’, it was delicious. Over the years, I’ve learnt nearly as much from mistakes as from successes.

And what is your favourite preserve to make (we won’t tell all the others, promise)?

I like the seasonal rhythm of marmalade. Seville oranges are only available for a few weeks in January and February, so marmalademaking fills those long dark evenings when there is little else available to pot up and preserve. Nowadays, I often make my marmalade over two or three days: slice, soften, steep, then finish. It may sound a faff, yet no stage takes that long and, most importantly, the resulting marmalade is wonderful.

And before we let you return to your preserving endeavours, tell us what’s next for Pam the Jam.

Potato pickle!