Crumbs Devon – Issue 24

A little slice of foodie heaven

The best of Totnes

No.24 Autumn 2018

What does a squid take on a camping trip?

# 24

Tent-acles!

Autumn 2018

Grilledl! Caines

michae , leigh on Lympstone rGidnd & building a b a Salcombe seafood spectacular with

Jane Baxter of WILD ARTICHOKES

Plus!

HANGING WITH THE COOL SQUIDS

Gara Rock Green Table

Bear & Blacksmith

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Knock-out recipes from Gill Meller,

Mitch Tonks and more

SqUId’S IN!

After an awesome Devon summer of hot weather and plentiful beach days, it’s little wonder that the sea temperatures on our southern coastlines are on the rise. Not such good news for fishy British staples like cod and haddock, who prefer their waters chilly, but great news for that mollusc of the Med, the squid. Yes, calamari is having a moment. Read all about what it is and how to cook with it, plus a yummy recipe to try from Mitch Tonks, on page 8.

Sticking with our coastal theme, we also head to Lyme Bay to find out all about Devon’s answer to Ross Poldark, Jack Rattenbury. Discover how this 18th century smuggler has inspired a new spiced rum from Lyme Bay Winery on page 18. If gin’s more your thing, we’ve also got all the lowdown on Salcombe Gin’s latest limited edition offering, ‘Mischief’, made in collaboration with chef and restauranteur Mark Hix (page 51).

On to the food, and we head to East Portlemouth for a scrummy seafood feast courtesy of the wonderful Jane Baxter from Wild Artichokes (page 35) and drop in on Michael Caines at Lympstone Manor to hear all about his first 18 months as custodian, plus get the inside scoop on the Burgundy and Bordeaux wine region events happening there this autumn (page 54). If you want to get away, Totnes is top of our list for a local autumnal foodie escape.

We adore its artsy, laidback vibe and cool café culture. Check our pick of places to go, starting on page 42.

One of our must-visit events on the Devon foodie calendar is the Dartmouth Food Festival, particularly the Eat Your Words sessions, where chefs, producers and food writers discuss some of the hottest topics in the food industry right now. Ahead of the event, we talk to some of the panel members who will be taking part in a discussion on the ethics of eating meat (page 47). Whether you’re omnivore, vegetarian or vegan, this is an emotive topic that throws up some interesting arguments around consumer choice and industry responsibility.

All that, plus the usual mix of recipes, reviews and news. Enjoy!

Melissa Stewart, Editor melissa.stewart@mediaclash.co.uk

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EDITOR

MELISSA STEWART melissa.stewart@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR

MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

TREVOR GILHAM ADVERTISING MANAGER

KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER

ALISTAIR TAYLOR alistair.taylor@mediaclash.co.uk SALES EXECUTIVES

NATALIE BRERETON natalie.brereton@mediaclash.co.uk GABRIELLA CRONCHEY gabriella.cronchey@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION MANAGER

SARAH KINGSTON DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER

KIRSTIE HOWE PRODUCTION DESIGNER

MATT GYNN matt.gynn@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVES

JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version

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Table of Contents NO.24 AUTUMN 2018

STARTERS

KITCHEN ARMOURY

08 HERO INGREDIENT Hanging with the cool squids 12 OPENINGS ETC The latest foodie findings 17 SIX PACK Afternoon teas that tick all the boxes 18 ASK THE EXPERT Getting spicy with rum at Lyme Bay

35 SUPPER CLUB A seafood feast, courtesy of Jane Baxter

CHEF!

AMAZING REGIONAL RECIPES

22 Cheddar and whey hazelnut soda bread,

by Gill Meller 24 Pigeon, beets, figs and seaweed,

by Gelf Alderson 26 Beer and onion braised smoked brisket,

by Marcus Bawdon 28 Kaeng Kari Kai,

by Darrin Hosegrove 29 Turbot with Exmoor Caviar hollandaise,

by Chris Simpson

MAINS 42 BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY On a foodie tour of Totnes 47 SHOULD WE EAT MEAT? Foodie insiders share their thoughts 51 THE MIGHTY GIN Salcombe Gin gets mischievous 54 GRILLED: MICHAEL CAINES

AFTERS NEW & NOTABLE RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, BARS

60 Gara Rock 62 The Bear and Blacksmith 64 The Black River Inn 65 The Green Table 66 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

ENGLAND’S SEAFOOD FEAST

STARTERs ⊲

INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES CULLOMPTON FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL

13 October Celebrate all that the Culm Valley has to offer at this annual event, showcasing the area’s best local produce.

Top tip: if you’ve got apple trees and are not sure what type they are, bring a sample along and Kevin Croucher of Thornhayes Nursery will identify it for you. Entry is free. facebook.com/cullyfoodfest/

22 September – 7 October Immerse yourself in the best seafood the English Riviera has to offer at this two-week celebration of England’s seafood coast. Take a tour of Brixham Fish Market, enjoy fish and chips at Mitch Tonks’ Rockfish, or even dine on lobster in Agatha Christie’s dining room.

Prices vary per event. englishriviera.co.uk/whatson/englands-seafood-feast

TEMPERATURES MIGHT BE DROPPING AND LEAVES STARTING TO WITHER, BUT FOOD FESTIVAL SEASON IS STILL VERY MUCH ALIVE AND KICKING. GET YOURSELF DOWN TO ONE (OR ALL!) OF THESE FABULOUS EVENTS…

POWDERHAM ⊲ FOOD FESTIVAL

O RIGIN A L IM AGE P H OTOG RA PH Y

hOt happeNiNGs

▲ DARTMOUTH FOOD FESTIVAL

6 – 7 October Star of The Hungry Sailors, James Strawbridge will be making his debut appearance at this ever-growing autumnal foodie event alongside broadcaster Judi Spiers, who will be hosting the chefs’ theatre across the weekend. With over 170 exhibitors and plenty of live music, it promises to be a lively weekend. Adult ticket £9 (£7.50 online), under 16 ticket £3 (£2.50 online). powderhamfoodfestival.com

19 October – 21 October Jane Baxter, Freddy Bird, Mark Hix and Romy Gill are just some of the chef talent heading to this year’s Dartmouth Food Festival.

Be sure to check out the Eat Your Words sessions too, where a host of food experts and chefs chat topical foodie issues (see our preview on page 47). Entry is free, apart from at some specific ticketed events. dartmouthfoodfestival. com

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WIBBLY-WOBBLY INVADERS FROM WARMER SEAS, OR A FUTURE CHIP SHOP STAPLE? ACTUALLY, THEY’RE BOTH, BECAUSE WHILE FISH STOCKS STRUGGLE, THE SQUIDS ARE ALRIGHT…

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ack in the day, your chip shop choice was easy – cod or haddock, and no-one going wrong with either. But then came overfishing and temperature rises, and a sudden topple into the Marianas trench for stocks of the classic whitefish varieties. (Cod numbers, at least, have recovered somewhat since.)

Where regular swimmers have been struggling, though, the cephalopods are thriving. This tentacled trio (squid, cuttlefish and octopus) have been increasing in numbers dramatically thanks to warmer oceans – which these invertebrates love – and yes, perhaps

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the lack of rival fish to eat the squishy snacks when they’re little. In places like Australia and South Africa, squid is already a staple of the fish and chip shop, and we’re surely not far behind.

Strangely enough, many people who are funny about oddball food quite like squid, perhaps because they're most often encountered as calamari – crisp, salty, deep-fried morsels, not unlike chewy onion rings – which hold little fear, or discernible seafood taste. (Even the name ‘calamari’ is cute: it derives from the latin for ‘ink pot’.) By the time most kids realise these things are not a close cousin to the chicken nugget, but are actually a jelly-like oceanic weirdo that wouldn’t look

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out of place in an Alien film, it’s too late; they’ve got used to them. (This is not to knock calamari, of course; it’s ace when done well, especially by a good Thai or Mediterranean chef.)

Squid really are incredible creatures, surprisingly intelligent (some are known to hunt in packs) and moving by a very precise form of jet propulsion, sucking water into their body’s mantle cavity then shooting it out of a siphon to power them on their way. They each have three hearts, and deep sea squid also have the longest penises of any mobile animal (often growing longer than their entire body length, tentacles included). Though most squid are no more than a couple of feet long, some species get famously bigger; the giant squid can reach 13m, for instance, and the little seen colossal squid is even larger.

While everything from sharks to seabirds love eating squid, these suckers are happy to return the favour, using their speed and excellent eyesight to locate and close on fishy victims, which they grab with two long, hooked, be-suckered tentacles and kill with a bite from the beak. (Squid are, however, fussy eaters, often taking the best flesh and discarding the rest; blame their fear of fish bones, which can puncture their throats and pierce the surrounding brain.)

Squid season runs from August through November in the UK, though you can actually buy them fresh or frozen – squid freezes better than most seafood – all year around. Though there are around 300 species, the local catch are the European and Atlantic varieties, mostly about five or eight inches long.

These are inky beasts most of us would rather avoid cleaning at home – that’s okay; you can get your fishmonger to do it – but if you’re feeling bold, cut off the tentacles then feel inside for the quill (it’s like a long, plastic shard) and remove it, then do the same for the entrails and silvery ink-sac, putting that to one side. (You might want to use it later, perhaps to colour and flavour pasta, risotto or soup.) Last things: peel the purple-and-white membrane-like skin from the meat, and remove the beak from the head (it’s the bit of white bone with a hole in the middle). Job done.

For many of us, squid is best cooked quickly in a super-hot pan, where it starts to curl and splutter within seconds; turn your back on it for a moment and it’ll be done. Dressed simply with citrus juice, and paired with an onion and tomato salad, fast-cooked squid makes a great centrepiece for a light summer lunch that talks of white houses perched above small harbours and the wine dark Mediterranean sea.

The alternative is cooking your squid very slowly – both fast or slow result in sweet, tender meat, whereas anything in the middle risks rendering it rubbery – perhaps with red wine in a stew. Or, you could go traditional and slice your squid into rings, then dip it in batter and deep-fry for calamari. Naturally, squid pairs well with other seafood – prawns are an obvious choice – while its mild taste works with hot, strong flavours, from garlic to chilli, Tabasco to tartar sauce.

Just as each southern European country has its own range of squid specialities, so do most Asian ones, meaning there are plenty of recipes to explore; tiny Spanish chipirones (baby squid) are especially delicious, for instance, as are many classic Thai or Chinese dishes, like salt and pepper squid. The body (or mantle) can be stuffed with mince or rice and breadcrumbs and gentle stewed; squid is a great mainstay of rustic fish soups; and it’s amazing simmered in squid-ink sauce and served with spaghetti.

Alternatively, squid stars in many Japanese sushi, sashimi and tempura dishes, while marinating works wonders, and in Korea it's sometimes served raw with mustard or soy sauce, or as a dried, shredded snack. (Rolled thin in a sort of mangle, it emerges as a fishy crisp, ready to be dipped in sweet-and-sour sauce.)

Be bold is our advice, for while raw squid may not be to all tastes, the cooked variety is a surprising versatile ingredient, one we’ve seen successfully paired with everything from chorizo to pork belly, meat balls to avocado. And few things are quite so sustainable…

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ChILLI SALT ANd PEPPER SqUId Mitch Tonks, acclaimed chef and author (and owner of The Seahorse in Dartmouth and the Rockfish chain), shares this squid-a-licious recipe. He says: “If you love calamari and care about sustainable seafood, get yourself to a fishmonger for some squid. This is one of my favourite squid dishes; it’s not hard to do, but you need to get it right. The key thing is the massaging of the flour, as a quick dip doesn’t give you that uneven crispy coat – rice or gluten free flour makes the crispest squid and the lightest barely-there coating. The only other important thing is hot, clean oil in the fryer. If it’s too cold, the squid won’t crisp – and no one likes the taste of dirty oil. Be bold with the pepper; you want it to be a flavour explosion in the mouth.”

SERVES 2 400g whole squid, cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces a handful of rice or gluten free flour 1 tbsp coarse salt 1 tbsp ground white peppercorns, roughly ground 1 tbsp black peppercorns, roughly ground 1 tbsp szechuan peppercorns, roughly ground 1 tbsp pink peppercorns, crushed handful of chopped coriander 1 red chilli finely sliced 1 lime for squeezing 1 Simply dip the squid in water then into the flour and massage in until you have a rough, uneven coating.

2 Heat your fryer to 170C then fry the squid until crisp. This takes only a few minutes.

3 Toss the squid in the salt and peppercorns as soon as it comes out of the fryer. Drizzle with a generous serving of good olive oil.

4 Serve sprinkled with coriander and chilli and a good squeeze of lime juice.

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PRODUCE MADE IN DEVON THAT’S TICKLING OUR TASTE BUDS THIS AUTUMN 1. Little’s Chocolate Chai, £2.99/50g On a chilly day nothing beats a warming cup of something, and we’re in love with this new infused coffee from Little’s, the Willand-based coffee roasting company. Arabica coffee infused with cardamom, ginger, cinnamon and cloves with a hit of cocoa, it tastes delicious with a splash of warm, creamy whole milk and served as a chai latte. If chai isn’t your thing, check out Little’s other new flavours – Cardamom Bun and Gingerbread Cookie, which are equally delicious; wearelittles.com 2. Luscombe Cucumber Tonic Water, £1.20/20cl Summer might be over, but that doesn’t mean we can’t still enjoy a cooling G&T after a busy day. Luscombe have had a busy few months launching a whole new range of delicious mixers, including a Sicilian Bitter Lemon and a Hot Ginger Beer, but it’s this crisp Cucumber Tonic Water that gets our vote. Made with Devon spring water, it’s not overly fizzy, so perfect on its own over crushed ice or with a Navy Strength gin.

Stockists include The Shops at Dartington,

Darts Farm, Greendale Farm Shop and Powderham Farm Shop; luscombe.co.uk 3. The Bar by Salcombe Dairy, £4.95/80g It’s not often you get a chocolate bar that references a poem, but this cleverly named treat from Salcombe Dairy does just that. ‘The Bar’ is named after Alfred, Lord Tennyson’s poem ‘Crossing the Bar’, believed to have been inspired by Salcombe Bar – a sandbar off the coast of the seaside town. It’s made using organic cacao from Peru, then brought back to Devon and made into chocolate; each bar has a minimum cocoa content of 70%.

Flavours include Milk Chocolate Orange, Dark Chocolate with Cacao Nibs, Honeycomb, and Dark Chocolate Ginger, while stockists include The Shops at Dartington, Island Street in Salcombe and Salcombe Dairy Boat Float in Dartmouth; salcombedairy.co.uk 4. Thunderflower Granola, £5.50/450g Hats off to new Teignmouth food producers, Thunderflower – a small, family-run enterprise knocking out a tasty gin, a quince paste and this rather scrummy granola. Yup, quite a

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mixed bag of stuff, but don’t let that put you off, as this granola is up there with the best we’ve tasted, a delicious blend of toasted oats, nuts and seeds paired with refreshing cranberries and dried apricot, and a dash of maple syrup. The ingredients are 100% natural and it’s vegan friendly, too. Stockists include Powderham Farm Shop and Ashburton Cookery School; thunderflower.co.uk 5. Surfing Cow Ice Cream, £250/120ml Whadda ya mean, it’s too cold for ice cream?

Never! Surfing Cow Ice Cream is produced by dairy farmers Lawrence and Lee Glanville, who work South Battisborough Farm on the Flete Estate in South Devon. Made in a converted barn, a stone’s throw from the milking parlour, it comes in a range of flavours, including Devon Dairy, a traditional, natural, farm ice cream with no added flavouring, Surfer’s Strawberry, Salted Caramel, Mint Choc Chip, and Pure Devon Honeycomb.

Currently available to buy direct from the farm, or at a range of shops across South Devon; surfingcowicecream.co.uk

Openings etc S T A R T E R S

JEA N CAZ ALS

WHAT A DISH!

BACK TO SChOOL

Since he left Gidleigh Park, we’ve been keenly waiting to hear where chef Michael Wignall would pop up next. Always an advocate for the strong visual presentation of food (as well as flavour, naturally), he’s lent his talents to Plate Up, an exhibition by the Devon Guild of Craftsmen, which runs until 4 November and showcases the work of artisans who use contemporary craft to present their food in spectacular fashion.

Michael, who co-curates the exhibition, says: “For me, food and drink is a visual art, and I see the restaurant as a series of impressions. This means that the experience begins from the moment a guest walks through the door.

The whole thing is affected by the aesthetics of the room and the items within, from the furniture the guest sits at, or on, to the art work on the walls, the side plates, the centrepieces, the cutlery, the water glasses – it’s not just about the food on the plate!”

To find out more about the exhibition and associated events, visit crafts.org.uk

great cookery Devon is chocka with some pretty darn more. A new one schools, but there’s always room for in Dartington, ched laun just has how-to-do-it experience by chef Chris ered deliv g dinin te priva and with courses and bespoke ate intim Sherville. The school promises a more s’s home Chri in ht taug ally actu ns environment, with lesso p’ for ksho Wor a ‘Cook’s kitchen, where 5-6 guests can enjoy can h whic , here room g dinin the day. There’s also a private area, so g eatin en/s kitch open an and le, host up to 10 peop talk to the chef as you’ll be able to relax with a drink and . ared prep is your food person; per £125 from start rses Cou chrissherville.com

OUR dAILY BREAd

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Fresh bread delivered direct to our door – by bike? Yes, please. One Mile Bakery Exeter, run by Boudicca Woodland, is a unique concept, delivering artisan bread, soup and preserves by bike to subscribers within a mile of her kitchen in St Thomas, Exeter. “The ethos is all about being part of the local community, meeting the person who has made your food, and offering an antidote to soulless supermarket shopping,” says Boudicca. She uses a subscription business model to cut down on food waste. For those who live beyond one mile of Boudicca’s kitchen, fear not; she also runs baking classes for those keen to brush up on their bread-making skills.

Find out more at onemilebakery.com

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NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

RYAN MARSLAND, CHEF/ OWNER AT THE FIG TREE @ 36 IN PLYMOUTH, TALKS FOOD Fondest foodie memories from your childhood? Definitely my mum’s corned beef hash with HP Sauce… In fact, I could eat that right now!

What was your very first job in the industry? It was with my dad at 13, washing pots, doing veg and starters.

Where might we know you from? Most recently, Quay 33; before that, Bistro Bene, White Hart Inn in Modbury, The Mission and the New Continental Hotel.

What’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? Opening our own restaurant – and being a dad!

Proudest career achievement?

Gaining an AA rosette was very special, especially as there weren’t many in Plymouth at the time.

How would you describe your style of cooking? Fresh, seasonal, local, honest.

What makes the local food scene so great? Unfortunately, and to be honest, there are too many chains about, but if you seek them out there are some great people going the extra mile to provide some beautiful food. Obviously, the produce in the South West is superb, and a pleasure to work with.

What are your favourite ingredients at the moment? We’ve been getting some amazing ceps from our forager recently, and the fish in Plymouth is beautiful – just so fresh.

Do you grow anything yourself?

We used to have an allotment before we opened the restaurant and, of course, we have our huge fig tree, which is providing us with a great crop at the moment.

What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? Antipasti in Rome, at a restaurant called Il Chianti, just near the Trevi Fountain... It’s where I took the opportunity to propose to my wife and business partner, Tanya.

Your kitchen must-haves? iPad and speakers.

Top 5-a-day? Just lots and lots of figs! thefigtreeat36.co.uk

HIP SHOPS chRISTOpheR pIpeR wINeS

WHAT: WINE, SPIRITS, BEER AND CIDER WHEN: MON-FRI 9AM-1PM, 2PM-5PM; SAT 9AM-1PM, 2PM-4.30PM WHERE: 1 SILVER STREET, OTTERY ST MARY, DEVON EX11 1DB

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hristopher Piper Wines is something of an institution among Devon oenophiles. Whether you’re a restaurant looking to stock a unique selection of wines or a customer hoping to pick up a special bottle for the weekend, this is the place for you.

Originally set up by Christopher Piper in the summer of 1979, operating from a bungalow at the end of Exeter Airport’s runway, John Earle joined as joint shareholder in 1980 and the business moved to Ottery St Mary, where it’s been ever since.

“Just like things at Exeter Airport, a lot has changed since those early days,” says office manager Pip Gascoigne-Pees. “Our shop is twice the size (although still very much a TARDIS!). We have two vast warehouse units, over 2,000 items in stock, run five delivery vans, supply to over 100 hotels and restaurants in Devon alone, and now employ 17 people, rather than the three we had back in 1980!”

As well as a range of wines from across the globe, the shop also stocks Christopher Piper own-brand wines, as Chris has been making wine in the Beaujolais region for over 40 years. “The Brouilly and BeaujolaisVillages are extremely popular,” says Pip. “Chris makes Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau every year, which we tend to sell out of before it even makes it into the country.”

Also popular are Portuguese wines, which, according to Pip, have “made great strides in

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recent years with their approachability and food-friendliness, not to mention their excellent value for money”; and the shop’s house Champagne, Gremillet. “This familyrun estate has been working closely with us since the early days of the business,” she says, “and we think of them as much as friends as suppliers.”

As people become more adventurous with their wine, the Christopher Piper team enjoy nothing more than helping customers make the right choice for their needs. “We really enjoy being asked for a wine to match with specific food,” says Pip. “A customer came in last week who was cooking cod in tomato sauce with chorizo and olives and wanted a wine suggestion. We recommended a white Rioja which, in his words, ‘couldn’t have been a more perfect match’. Other questions we’re regularly asked include: how long to keep a wine for, what vintage port would be best for a Christening present, suggestions for wedding wines, and do we stock organic and/or vegan wines? Yes, by the way.”

So, as we head into autumn and start to favour a bold, juicy red of an evening, what should we be looking at?

“Those from the Languedoc and Rhône valley are popular, and there’s a growing interest in the wines from Lebanon,” says Pip. “Wines from both regions share a common ripeness and spiciness which work so well with autumnal flavours.” christopherpiperwines.co.uk

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Clockwise from above: Moorland Garden Hotel; The Bedford Hotel; Paschoe House

Six Pack

TEA TIME

INDULGE YOUR INNER POSH WITH DAINTY SANDWICHES AND TEENY TINY PASTRIES AT OUR PICK OF SOME OF DEVON’S GRANDEST AFTERNOON TEA VENUES

THE BEDFORD HOTEL

This place has the ultimate claim to afternoon tea fame, as the Bedford Hotel in Tavistock originally formed part of Tavistock’s Benedictine Abbey. It was built in the 10th century, but was badly damaged by vikings in 997AD. Restoration of the abbey was done by local workers and monks, who were rewarded with bread, clotted cream and strawberry preserves – and so the Devon cream tea was born! Enjoy a taste of its history with a classic Devon cream tea (£6) or a sparkling afternoon tea (£19); bedford-hotel.co.uk

BORINGDON HALL

This a place that’s serious about afternoon tea, so much so that they’ve even got a loyalty club where, if you visit nine times, you get a limited edition Boringdon Hall teacup and saucer. Boringdon Hall, near Plymouth, is also famed for its themed teas, such as the recent Winnie the Pooh tea, complete with Tigger macaroons. For traditionalists, the standard afternoon tea comes with crab blinis as well as cucumber sandwiches, and there are gluten-free and vegan options available too.

Priced £27; boringdonhall.co.uk

PASCHOE HOUSE

Going for afternoon tea is a proper treat, the type of thing we do on a special occasion, like going on a hen do. Paschoe House, just outside Exeter, are on to this and have come up with the ingenious idea of tea-infused cocktails, served from a teapot. Clever, huh?

Or, if you’re not feeling too wild, stick to the traditional offering with unlimited tea and coffee. Expect exquisite pastries and those all-important scones with jam and clotted cream. Priced £29.50, or £44.50 for the cocktail version; paschoehouse.co.uk

MOORLAND GARDEN HOTEL

Nestled on the edge of Dartmoor, between Tavistock and Plymouth, Moorland Garden Hotel offer your quintessentially British afternoon tea. As you indulge with a selection of savoury and sweet treats, you can sip on a cup of glorious loose-leaf tea, blended especially by Devon brand Teas Me. Choose from the unique Moorland Garden Hotel blend, Earl Grey or Dartmoor Caravan.

Priced £24.95 with a glass of Champagne; moorlandgardenhotel.co.uk

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THOMAS CARR SEAFOOD AND GRILL

Okay, so technically this isn’t your standard afternoon tea, but boy, does it deserve a mention. Thomas Carr Seafood and Grill in Ilfracombe are knocking out the tastiest savoury afternoon teas. Gone are the sweet scones and fiddly pastries and in their place comes homemade mini cheese and herb scones with smoked mackerel pâté, red pepper jam and pickled lemon. But be warned – they don’t serve this every day, it’s on the specials board, so ring ahead to avoid disappointment. Priced £8 with drinks charged separately; thomascarrdining.co.uk

LIFTON HALL

This popular hotel in Lifton, on the Devon/ Cornwall border, is known for its afternoon tea, serving up freshly-made warm, fluffy scones and sticky sweet jam. There are also vegan and gluten-free options available.

Enjoy your tea in the luxurious surroundings of this 17th century building, which retains much of its original period character. Priced £24.95, but currently running a special offer of £25 for two; liftonhall.co.uk

Lyme Bay Winery is best known for English wines and fruit liqueurs, Liam, so why’d you decide to branch out into rum production?

We have a bit of an obsession with all things ‘off the beaten path’, and so the fact that there was no one in Devon making a spiced rum made for an irresistible challenge, particularly given Lyme Bay’s rich smuggling history and connection to historic, local smuggler Jack Rattenbury.

However, the decision was not all romantic; there was also a commercial element, as we looked to tap into the growing consumer appetite for aged spirits.

Ask the Expert

SmUGGLeR’S deLIGhT YO HO HO, AND A BOTTLE OF RUM! WE QUIZ LIAM IDZIKOWSKI FROM LYME BAY WINERY ABOUT THEIR NEW LUGGER RUM, INSPIRED BY A FAMOUS SOUTH DEVON SMUGGLER

Jack Rattenbury sounds like an interesting fella. Tell us more…

Born in 1778 in the small coastal fishing village of Beer, Jack Rattenbury was one of Devon’s most notorious smugglers. He had a great affinity for the sea from an early age, and actually started off, aged nine, as an apprentice fisherman before learning of the world of privateering – essentially piracy, but with government protection – about which he said, “Nothing could better please my roving fancy than an enterprise of such a nature.”

His life was filled with smuggling and privateering and earned him the nickname the ‘Rob Roy of the West’. His smuggling escapades were mainly to the Channel Islands and France, which in those days, during the heyday of the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815), were not confined to just spirits; he transported tea, lace, tobacco and even, on occasion, escaped French prisoners.

Along the way he got himself into many a scrape. On more than one occasion he ended up in court (but was rarely convicted), and between trips he was more often than not on the run, or in hiding, from one of his many nemeses; be it the lieutenant of the Greyhound cutter (an officer who pursued Jack for most of his life), the Sea Fensibles (a naval militia, who tried to arrest him as a deserter) or the ever watchful customs officers. Somehow, though – perhaps through his charm and ingenuity (or, indeed, a large slice of good fortune) – he always managed to find a way to escape, often with the help of his wife and friends, and probably also with the help of those of higher standing in the community, who would no doubt have benefited from his pursuits!

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S T A R T E R S

The distinctively-shaped Lugger Rum bottle (opposite page), and Liam Idzikowski, head winemaker at Lyme Bay Winery

Once we get our hands on a bottle, how should we drink it?

Ultimately, we think that a premium spiced rum should be complex enough to be sipped but versatile enough to be mixed, and that is what we hope people will discover with Lugger. For first-timers, we would recommend a simple face-to-face introduction; just Lugger Rum on the rocks.

After that, we would suggest experimenting with a range of simple mixers – the complexity comes from the rum, so nothing too elaborate is needed. Fever Tree Madagascan Cola makes a good companion.

Would it work well in a cocktail?

With Lugger Rum, we’ve deliberately held back on the sugar to create a drier rum that works really well in cocktails. We suggest you mix 45ml Lugger Rum with 60ml grapefruit juice, 7.5 ml brown sugar syrup (or a large teaspoon of honey), and top it up with ginger beer to make a ‘Devon Dark and Stormy’.

Swashbuckling stuff – and very Poldark!

So, where does Lugger Rum come into all this?

A lugger is a small fishing vessel, which was popular in Beer in the late 18th century. Jack used a lugger to smuggle his contraband to the shore. Fast, agile and often painted black, under the cover of darkness these luggers were almost impossible to catch.

Ah, now we get it. So, what can we expect from a bottle of Lugger Rum? How does it differ from other spiced rums?

Driven by a passion for the unusual, we were never going to be happy with making an ordinary spiced rum with the characteristic, one-dimensional sweet vanilla flavour that many consumers have grown accustomed to. With Lugger Rum we wanted to reflect the bold character of Jack Ratt, as well as the experimentalism with which Lyme Bay Winery is associated, and so our aim was to produce a drier spiced rum that would

display a full profile of spices. The result? A spiced rum with a complex array of flavours – nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, orange peel and cloves, as well as vanilla – which allows Lugger Rum to be drunk on its own on the rocks, or with a range of mixers.

Sounds delish. How is it produced?

We have selected an aged rum from Trinidad and Tobago (this provides a strong molasses and caramel overtone), which is then blended with a Guyana rum distilled from demerara sugar. The rum is then brought here to the winery, where it is aged in heavily re-charred ex-Tennessee whiskey barrels for up to six months using a solera system, where younger rum is added at regular aging intervals and older rum siphoned off for consistent maturation. The rum is then spiced, balanced and bottled right here at the winery. We’re just about to make our fifth batch, and each batch yields about 1,200 bottles.

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We can’t help but notice the distinctive bottle. Why did you decide to break away from the standard 70cl bottle shape?

We had some serious fun with the Lugger bottle and design – but it was not without its challenges! Our sales and marketing manager Sara discovered the bottle and promptly fell in love with it, and for good reason. It’s a stunning thing that brings 18th century smuggling into the 21st century and turns a fair few heads along the way.

Its distinctive shape, however, has posed a few challenges for us in terms of labelling and bottling and, had it not been for Sara’s dogged determination, the bottle might never have made it. Thankfully, we persisted and overcame all the bumps in the road, and we’re so pleased with the result.

Lugger Rum is priced £38.50/70cl and is available to buy online or from delis, farm shops and garden centres across Devon; lymebaywinery.co.uk

CHEF!

WHAT TO MAKE AND HOW TO MAKE IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES

HIGHLIGHTS

SODA POP!

GILL MELLER’S TAKE ON CHEESY SODA BREAD PAGE 22

WE GOT GHAMTHEIS

GO WILD WIT RECIPE SEASONAL PIGEON PAGE 24

TURBOT CHARGED

Did you know, the food value of figs (which we cook with on page 24) increases with drying?

They’re rich in calcium and fibre too

A FISHY DISH, GIDLEIGH-STYLE PAGE 29

PLUS!

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PEOPLE SERVED AT AN AUTUMN BBQ (PAGE 26)

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USING YOuR LOAF

CHEF AND FOOD WRITER GILL MELLER SHOWS US HOW TO MAKE A TASTY SODA BREAD Celebrating the hedgerows, woodlands and pastures of Quicke’s Home Farm in Newton St Cyres, chef and food writer Gill Meller has cooked up a recipe for the season using their award-winning clothbound cheese.

Inspired by the abundance of life in every corner of this ancient environment, the Gather author’s recipes are a reflection of his surroundings, taking inspiration from the landscape, his locality and the amazing farmers, growers and producers of the ingredients he uses. Just as each truckle in the cheese stores tells a tale of the land and the changing seasons at Quicke’s, so Gill’s recipes have been created to help take the story of this little corner of Devon, from the rolling fields to the kitchen table.

“Bringing a generous slice of autumn, this quick bread is all about texture and flavour,” says Gill.

“It’s packed with sweet roast red onions, rich buttery cheese, crunchy oats and nuts. I’ve used the whey from the cheese-making process to bring the dough together. It imparts a wonderfully rich flavour to the bread.”

CHEDDAR AND WHEY HAZELNUT SODA BREAD MAKES 1 LOAF 2 large red onions 250g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 200ml whey or butter milk 2 sprigs rosemary, roughly chopped 100g grated Quicke’s Buttery Clothbound Cheddar 25g shelled hazelnuts, bashed 2 tbsp jumbo oats 1 Pre-heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

2 Peel and cut the red onions into 6-8 wedges and place in a medium roasting tin. Season well with salt and pepper and trickle with olive oil, then place the tray in the pre-heated oven and cook for 35-40 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they are soft and beginning to caramelise. Remove the onions from the oven and allow to cool.

3 Combine the flour with the salt, baking powder, a third of the grated cheese, a third of the bashed hazelnuts, the sweet roast onions, chopped rosemary and the whey. Use your hands to form the dough into a round, about 20cm in size.

4 Place the dough on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Scatter over the remaining nuts, cheese, and, lastly, the oats.

5 Cut the traditional deep cross into the surface of the dough. This will help the bread to rise.

6 Place the bread in the pre-heated oven and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until well-risen and golden on top.

7 Serve warm from the oven with whey butter, a few slices of cheese and some good-quality ham.

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Gill is a contributor to This Land, a journal produced by Quicke’s celebrating a year on Home Farm and the connection we have with the land through farming, history, cooking, science and geology. Available to buy from quickes.co.uk, priced £15.

C H E F !

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C H E F !

FLIGhT Of FaNCY

GELF ALDERSON MAKES THE MOST OF GAME SEASON WITH THIS WARMING PIGEON DISH As executive head chef at River Cottage, Gelf Alderson is a big advocate of farm to fork dining and making the most of what nature’s larder has to offer. This pigeon, beetroot and fig dish screams of shorter days, woolly scarves and leaves on the ground, and makes an ideal dinner party main course.

“This is a lovely dish for autumn,” says Gelf. “Pigeon and figs are perfectly in season, with the sweet jamminess of the figs working well with the gamey pigeon and the earthy beetroot. The seaweed gives an added interest, lifting the dish with its salty tang and tying together land and sea, something we do a lot at River Cottage. A deep fruity red wine would make for a classical drink pairing, but I’d also suggest picking up the earthy tones in the dish and pairing it with a chocolate ale. An orange wine would be delicious, too.”

PIGEON, BEETS, FIGS AND SEAWEED SERVES 2 2 wood pigeon breasts 4 medium-sized beetroots, boiled, peeled and quartered 4 figs, quartered 25g of gutweed, thoroughly washed and dried (or finely sliced cabbage) 1 candy beetroot, peeled and finely sliced 1 tbsp apple balsamic olive oil rapeseed oil

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1 Pre-heat the oven to 210C/425F/gas mark 7.

2 Heat a small pan of rapeseed oil. Add the gutweed a little at a time and deep fry until crispy, taking care as the oil will spit. (Tip: use a lid to cover, and prevent it spitting on you!) Remove and place onto a cloth to drain any excess oil off.

3 Place the cooked beetroot on a baking tray, drizzle with olive oil and season, then put in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, add the figs to the beetroot and cook for a further 5 minutes.

4 Meanwhile, place a heavy-based frying pan on the stove and heat until smoking hot, and add a little light rapeseed oil. Season the pigeon with sea salt and add to the frying pan, skin-side down. Be careful, as the oil will spit once the pigeon is added. Cook for 1 minute on each side, remove from the pan and allow to rest for a couple of minutes.

5 Remove the beetroots and figs from the oven, and place the figs on your serving plate. Sprinkle the apple balsamic over the beets and stir, then put on the serving plate with the figs.

6 Slice the rested pigeon into 3-4 slices each and add to the serving plate. Pour over any resting juices and excess balsamic, and garnish with the sliced raw candy beetroot and deep-fried gutweed. rivercottage.net

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C H E F !

KING OF ThE BBq MARCUS BAWDON FROM COUNTRYWOODSMOKE SHOWS US HOW TO RUSTLE UP THE IDEAL AUTUMN BARBECUE

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Marcus Bawdon knows pretty much everything there is to know about barbecuing. He demos and teaches outdoor cooking around the UK, as well as edits UK BBQ Mag. And he’s a big advocate of cooking on the coals all year around, not just in summer. Of this dish, he says: “As much as I love a proper full packer cut BBQ brisket, sometimes I don’t fancy cooking a whole one, or just want an easier life… When you go to a UK butcher, generally they will have a rolled brisket flat in the display, which works great for slow cooking, braised in a nice liquid such as beer.

“I’m a big fan of the smoke – braise – dip method.

You smoke until you’re happy with the bark (the crust around the outside) and then braise in a suitable container, with the braising liquid of your choice, a stock, or a booze (beer or wine). I always find a good ale works well with the darker beef cuts such as brisket, short ribs and cheek.”

BEER AND ONION BRAISED SMOKED BRISKET SERVES 6-8 2kg rolled brisket 1 large red onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic BBQ dry rub seasoning (salt and pepper also works) bottle of dark ale 1 Place the rolled brisket flat on a bed of sliced red onions and a couple of cloves of garlic in a small baking pan. Dust with a suitable dry rub seasoning for beef, or simply use coarse sea salt and black pepper.

2 Smoke indirectly (not directly above hot coals) on the BBQ at around 130C for about 5 hours with pecan and cherry smoke.

3 After 5 hours, pour on half the bottle of dark ale (I used Black Tor Brewery’s Pride of Dartmoor, and the other half I enjoyed as a BBQ pit-boss perk!), and then wrap the meat up snugly and cook for another 4 hours or so at 130C, or until the meat temperature has reached 96C inside and the brisket is soft like butter when probed.

4 Allow to rest for around half an hour in the braising liquor, then cut into thick slices. I enjoy it in a sandwich with the brisket loaded up in a nice brioche roll, and then dipped into the rich meat/beer juices. countrywoodsmoke.com

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C H E F !

CURRY NIGhT

NOTHING BEATS A CURRY ON A COLD NIGHT, LIKE THIS SPICY WARMER FROM DARRIN HOSEGROVE A decent curry doesn’t have to be overly complicated; all you need are a few tasty ingredients and a bit of time to put it together. This yellow chicken curry with Asian greens from Darrin Hosegrove at Ashburton Cookery School is a perfect example of a crowd-pleasing curry, because it’s not overly hot.

“This is a great dish because it's a little milder in terms of heat levels than some of the other Thai curries that we’re familiar with,” says Darrin. “The subtle flavours from the kra chaai, lemongrass and galangal add a nice floral balance, and both the fresh and ground turmeric not only carry many health benefits but give it the distinctive yellow colour. This dish works perfectly with a chilled dry white wine, or a traditional Thai Singha beer.”

KAENG KARI KAI SERVES 2-3 4 stems kra chaai 4 slices galangal 4 pieces fresh turmeric 4 cloves of garlic 1 medium-sized shallot 2 sticks lemongrass 4 green or yellow Thai chillies 2 pinches ground turmeric 2 pinches toasted white pepper 2 pinches toasted ground cumin 2 tsp shrimp paste salt corn oil 100ml chicken stock or water 600ml of Chaoko coconut milk

4 boneless and skinless chicken thighs 2 limes fish sauce 100g oyster mushrooms 2 handful of Asian greens (garlic shoots, Indonesian greens, ong choi) sugar 1 Finely chop the kra chaai, galangal, turmeric, garlic, shallot, lemongrass and chilli, and place into a pestle and mortar with the dried spices and a pinch of salt.

Pound until a fine paste is achieved. When the paste is smooth, add a teaspoon of shrimp paste and pound in.

2 To preserve and concentrate the paste, gently heat a wok over a low heat with a splash of corn oil. Add the paste and cook gently for approximately 3-4 minutes.

3 Add the curry paste, stock and coconut milk to the wok and bring to the boil. Next, add the strips of chicken thighs and cook gently for approximately 8-10 minutes.

4 Add the juice of 2 limes and a splash of fish sauce.

Taste for seasoning and, if needed, add a pinch of salt.

5 Add the oyster mushrooms and cook for approximately 1 minute.

6 Finally, add the greens and, once they've wilted, adjust the seasoning and serve immediately. The curry should be hot, sour and salty. ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk

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Note: Kra chaai is also known as Thai ginger, and is available fresh from Asian supermarkets.

C H E F !

TURBOT POweR COOKING FISH NEEDN’T BE COMPLICATED, AS THIS NON-FIDDLY FILLET FROM CHRIS SIMPSON DEMONSTRATES

Almost a year on from taking over executive head chef duties at Gidleigh Park, Chris Simpson has definitely found his feet. With fish one of his favourite ingredients to cook with, we were stoked he found the time to share this turbot recipe with us.

“There are other species of flounder available, but European turbot is arguably superior,” says Chris. “In the Gidleigh Park kitchens we buy turbot whole and utilise all elements for various dishes, but you can ask your fishmonger to fillet them for you.

“While wild is regarded as tastier than farmed, the Marine Conservation Society (MSC) recommend farmed for sustainability. If turbot isn’t available, Dover sole makes an excellent substitute.”

TURBOT WITH EXMOOR CAVIAR HOLLANDAISE SERVES 4 4x 100g turbot fillets 120g purple sprouting broccoli 100g broad beans 120g baby leeks 4x egg yolks 250ml extra virgin olive oil white wine vinegar lemon juice salt 60g Exmoor Caviar

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1 Season and steam each turbot fillet for approximately 4 minutes. You should be able to gently remove the skin in one piece.

2 Trim the woody stems off the broccoli and wash thoroughly. Cook in salted boiling water until tender, for around 3-4 minutes.

3 Cook the broad beans in salted boiling water until tender, for around 3-4 minutes, refresh and then peel the skins off.

4 Cook the baby leeks in boiling water until tender, for around 3-4 minutes.

5 For the hollandaise, place the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of gently simmering water. Whisk the yolks with a tablespoon of warm water until soft and fluffy and, while still whisking, slowly pour the olive oil into the yolks.

6 When the mix has thickened, add a dash of white wine vinegar and lemon juice to taste and check the seasoning. Remove the bowl from the pan of water, cover with cling film and set aside in a warm place.

7 Arrange the baby leeks, broad beans and broccoli across four plates. Lay a fillet of turbot on top of each.

Add Exmoor Caviar to the hollandaise and cover the fish with the sauce just before serving. gidleigh.co.uk

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award winning restaurant • award winning marina

Great

Food, Compa ny & Location!

Jolly Jacks, the perfect venue for your Christmas festivities.

Amazing food, great Christmas menu, warm and cosy ambiance, friendly, welcoming and fun; Jolly Jacks has it all!

Christmas bookings now being taken • FREE secure parking • Dog & child friendly

Tel: 01752 500 008 • www.jollyjacks.co.uk Mayflower Marina • Richmond Walk • Plymouth • PL1 4LS

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BRITAIN’S

BEST 50VALUE

HOTELS

THE JUBILEE INN West Anstey, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3PH

Tel. 01398 341401

GETTING THE BEST FROM THOSE APPLES Ashridge cider maker Jason Mitchell explains…

I info@thejubileeinn.co.uk www.thejubileeinn.co.uk Voted No. 6 in The Sunday Times Britain’s 50 Best Value Hotels (2017), the Elliott Family welcome you to our beautifully refurbished private home, to stay and dine with us in country comfort as your base for exploring glorious Exmoor. Providing a more bespoke food experience we locally source produce to create seasonal dishes for families or fine diners by pre-order at good, honest prices.

Please contact us directly for seasonal room reservations, private events, dining, wedding packages and conferencing options at best rates and late availability special offers, by email at info@thejubileeinn.co.uk or telephone.

Telephone bookings are essential as we do not offer food service every day, unless pre-ordered. We are unable to guarantee availability without reservation. All bookings for the hot tub and sun deck area are to be made 7 days in advance.

JubileeDining

@Jubilee_Inn

Booking essential – DINING TUESDAY TO SUNDAYS

t was the start of something special when many years ago, Jason Mitchell, Ashridge cider maker, met an old Devonian cider maker called Cyril.

“He taught me all about cider,” says Jason. “Cyril was an engineer, and understood how the process worked and what was needed, so he built his own press. We have his press at Ashridge now.

“It’s all about the pressing and how to treat the juice,” he continues.

“Importantly, we use all types of cider apples from old traditional orchards, which makes the cider more complex. Dabinetts, Browns Apple, Ellis Bitter, Tremlett’s Bitter, Slack-ma-Girdle and many more.

The apples are washed and pressed and the juice collected in tanks.

“It’s quite complex because certain apple yeasts will start off the fermentation, and as it goes on, others take over. It’s important to have a long, slow and cool fermentation. Some ciders only ferment for 5-7 days, but we allow ours to take six months at least.

“Cyril certainly knew how to get the best from his apples,” adds Jason, “and we hope he’d approve of what we do today.”

Try NEW Devon Gold – a lighter summer cider, lower alcohol and easy to drink. 4.5% abv.

ashridgecider.co.uk; @AshridgeCider; 01364 654749

ARMOURY

CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS

ThREE ChANGE

WITH ITS NEW 3 SERIES, AGA GETS MODERN – WHILE RETAINING EVERYTHING WE LOVED ABOUT IT BEFORE. IT’S A NEAT TRICK, SAYS MATT BIELBY I’ve got a 3 Series, and it’s just about perfect: not too big, not too small, good fun, classy but not flashy, holds its value well, and I can squeeze five people into it, at a push.

Eh? What are you, some sort of especially greedy cannibal?

No, a thrusting young executive! Pfff! You’re not young, you’re definitely not thrusting – or if you are, I don’t want to know about it – and you seem to have forgotten that Crumbs is more Jamie Oliver than Jeremy Clarkson.

So stop with the car talk, yeah? BMW isn’t the only one makes a 3 Series, you know.

AGA’s got one too.

AGA! And I thought my BMW was expensive… Okay, so the famous Swedishborn, British-made range cookers are never exactly cheap, but – like your sporty little

executive saloon – you might just decide that their latest model is pretty good value all the same. The thing with the new 3 Series is that it’s the first ever AGA to offer an induction hob on top, alongside the classic AGA hotplate.

In fact, it’s a more modern sort of AGA all round, coming in lots of different versions and colours, and giving more flexibility than the brand’s more traditional models.

How so? Glad you asked! All 3 Series have a roasting or baking oven, a simmering oven and a warming oven, plus a triple-element hotplate up top, which automatically comes up to temperature when opened – but there are additional options beyond all that. Do you want more built-in storage space? And what about a warming plate – or would you prefer a state-of-the-art two-zone induction hob? This is an AGA you can tailor to your needs.

It sounds very modern! I thought AGAs were about eccentric, old-fashioned cooking…

If, by ‘old-fashioned’, you mean they work using cast-iron radiant heat, then that’s still true – and proudly so. Instead of the blast of hot air that regular ovens cook with, heat comes at your food from every inner surface simultaneously – it’s basically a better (if fairly long-in-the-tooth) system. But now you get up-to-date elements like that fancy induction hob, too.

So it’s like Liam Neeson in Taken? Just so.

(As long as we’re only talking about the first one here.) It’s tough, old and handsome, made fresh, exciting and new.

AGA’s 3 Series starts at £7,895 for a threeoven model. Check it out at the AGA store in Exeter; agaliving.com

THIS MONTH • WILD TIMES WITH WILD ARTICHOKES • TEA PARTY

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Friendly coffee bar & Bistro serving delicious fresh coffee, legendary breakfast, afternoon tea and lunch dishes in the heart of Salcombe.

Salcombe Coffee Company open everyday 9.00am to 4.30pm.

Bistro 73 open 6pm till late, Tuesday - Saturday inclusive.

Tel: 01548 842319 | Email: info@salcombecoffee.co.uk | Visit: 73 Fore St, Salcombe TQ8 8BU

The Supper Club

wheRe the wild thinGs aRe

YACHT-WATCHING AND A SEAFOOD-THEMED SUPPER CLUB WERE THE ORDER OF THE DAY AT WILD ARTICHOKES’ LATEST POP-UP EVENT

w

WORDS: MELISSA STEWART IMAGES: JOHNNIE WALKER

e’re going to put this out there. We’re a bit obsessed with Jane Baxter. There’s just something about her no-nonsense approach and slightly eccentric manner that we can’t help but love. Oh, and she’s also a pretty darn good chef, too. Best-known in Devon for setting up the Riverford Field Kitchen, she also writes regularly for The Guardian, appears on Saturday Kitchen, and has written a handful of cookery books for both Riverford and LEON. Her day job, however, is knocking out inspired and inventive menus week after week at Wild Artichokes – the pop-

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up supper club and events venture she runs with business partner, and organiser extraordinaire, Samantha Miller.

Wild Artichokes first appeared on our radar when we were tipped off about their fabulous food by Ben Watson, founder of Ben’s Farm Shops, who cited it as one of his favourite places to dine when we interviewed him for our Little Black Book. So, when we got the opportunity to experience a pop-up dinner at The Boathouse in East Portlemouth at the tail end of summer, we jumped at it.

Jane and Sam usually host their supper clubs at their BYO venue in Kingsbridge, but they also pop-up at other venues in and

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around the South Hams area. The Boathouse, which is slap bang on the waterfront at East Portlemouth, is the ideal venue for a seafood feast. With sailing boats and RIBs bobbing up and down literally yards from where we’re seated, and guests ferrying over to join us from Salcombe, it gives proceedings a real holiday vibe.

As with all Wild Artichokes events, the emphasis is on relaxed, communal dining – long tables, sharing platters and the same knife, fork and plate throughout. We’re seated next to a family holidaying in Salcombe, and a local clan who live just up the road.

All agree that the appeal of tonight’s occasion is the promise of something different to the usual pub grub and seaside hotel fodder, and tonight’s menu doesn’t disappoint. Plate after plate of seafood arrives at our table: crab with courchamps sauce, creamy prawn croquettas, salt cod beignets, stuffed squid (see recipe opposite), zesty ceviche, clams with sobrasada and white beans, and prawn and pork dumplings. The oohs and aahs around me as people mop up the food and politely wrestle over the leftovers is testament to the high standard of grub being doled out here.

For mains, we have an Italian-inspired red mullet maltagliata, followed by the evening’s showstopper, grilled lobster with herb butter, corn and red pepper. Each diner is given a generous helping of half a lobster each, and all dignity is thrown out the window as we get our hands (and faces) dirty extracting every possible morsel of meat out of the shells. We end the night with a trio of homemade puddings: blackcurrant and custard Pavlova, chocolate nemesis with raspberries, and greengage and almond tart. The tart, in particular, stands out – it looks stodgy, but defies expectation with deliciously delicate pastry.

Belly full, I manage to grab Jane for a quick chat after service.

She’s relieved everyone has had a great time. This is the third

Jane Baxter (above) and her Wild Artichokes business partner Samantha Miller cook up seasonal feasts at their Kingsbridge HQ and various venues across Devon

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T H E

S U P P E R

C L U B

STUFFEd SqUId SERVES 4

“These squid are full of a fennel and chard stuffing, and will even convert fennel haters,” says Jane. “When you’re stuffing them, don’t over-fill, because the squid will shrink once cooked.”

32 small squid, cleaned 4 tbsp olive oil 4 cloves of garlic, crushed 500g tomatoes, skinned and chopped 2 bunches of fresh basil, shredded extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

supper club at The Boathouse this year, and has been the most ambitious to date. Usually they serve up two courses for £30 per head, but this time they did three courses for £50 (extremely reasonable, we reckon, given the generous portions of lobster).

“Tonight was the most labour intensive; it was harder to get out,” she says. “We’ve done the red mullet pasta before, which was challenging for 60 people, but it’s all about putting it together in a sequence and hoping that everyone enjoys it.”

The Wild Artichokes approach is all about variety. Jane doesn’t cook one particular cuisine or type of menu, but likes to mix things up. “We’re not in London, we don’t go out to eat all the time, so we have to make our own inspiration,” she says. “One thing we’ve done a few times this year is a simply cook the books. We’ll get a cook book that we love and we do a whole meal based on that book. We recently did a menu using recipes from the State Bird Provisions Cookbook, named for a popular restaurant in San Francisco that serves American dim sum. We’ve also done Junk Food Japan nights and Dirty Food nights. We have to make our own inspiration, and though I do some of that by reading, I also travel a lot. I always pick up bits and pieces wherever I go, then we put our own spin on it.”

It’s this inventive, fun approach to cooking that makes Wild Artichokes such an exciting venture. Who knows where they’ll pop up next – or what they’ll be cooking?

For the stuffing 2 tbsp olive oil 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 head of fennel, finely chopped 2 tsp ground fennel seeds 1 tsp chilli flakes 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 4 anchovies, chopped 100g chard, cooked 100g ground almonds salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Heat the olive oil for the stuffing in a large pan. Add the shallots and fennel and cook for 10 minutes, or until they go tender. Stir in the ground fennel seeds, chilli flakes and garlic and cook for a minute.

Tip in the anchovies, then remove from the heat and stir until the anchovies dissolve.

2 Squeeze any excess moisture out of the chard and finely chop. Add to the pan and cook for a minute. Season well. Remove from the heat and stir in the almonds. Allow to cool.

3 Stuff each squid with the fennel chard stuffing. Tuck the tentacles back into the opening of each squid tube and secure with a small cocktail stick.

4 Heat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan. Add all the squid and cook over a high heat to brown for 2 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon.

5 Add the garlic to the pan and stir for a minute. Tip in the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes over a medium heat. Stir in the basil and return the squid to the pan. Cook over a low heat for 10 minutes. Season well and drizzle with good extra virgin olive oil.

TIP: These are brilliant served with a large glass of white wine. (Or, as Jane calls it, Lady Petrol!)

wildartichokes.co.uk

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K I T C H E N

A R M O U R Y

The Want List

2

ANYONE FOR A CUPPA? IMPRESS YOUR NEIGHBOURS WITH OUR PICK OF TEA PARTY TABLEWARE

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1. Teapot £75 We reckon this green teapot would help conjure up the perfect brew. Arwyn Jones is a potter based in Modbury who stocks his ceramics locally at Dupere Design.

All pieces are microwave, oven and dishwasher safe. duperedesign.com 4

2. Teapot stand £8.99 Artist Emmeline Simpson is well-known in her native Bristol for her illustrations inspired by the cityscape. She also does a rather lovely Devon range too, which includes this cute teapot stand depicting Burgh Island, Agatha Christie’s writing retreat (and occasional story location). emmelinesimpson.co.uk 3. Sugar bowl £14.95 Handmade by a Fairtrade project in Southern India, this Mali navy and terracotta sugar bowl is available from home and lifestyle emporium Nkuku, near Totnes. It makes for a welcome addition to any kitchen; the only question is, will it be one lump or two? nkuku.com

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4. Milk pot £15 We love this Scandi-inspired mini carafe, much more interesting than your typical milk jug. Designed by Swedish company Sagaform, it sits on a handy oak coaster.

Available from Salcombe Trading Company. salcombetrading.co.uk

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5. Teacups £22.99 each A proper cup of tea needs a proper china cup to drink it from, and we reckon these bird motif cups from designer Sara Miller’s Chelsea Collection do just the job.

Available from the Shops at Dartington. shopsatdartington.co.uk

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A corner of Italy in the South West a taste of sunshine

Importers of artisan fine food & wines

www.janotasteofsunshine.co.uk

Delicatessen Restaurant Online Shop

01803 863955 11 High Street Totnes TQ9 5NN Devon

MA INs

OWLEDGE AND KN ER SID IN , ES US CA RY NA LI CU TOP

This lovely looking creation comes from Rumour in Totnes

FOOD PIONEERs

HIGHLIGHTS

THE MEATY DEBATE

MEAT EATING VS VEGANISM AT DARTMOUTH FOOD FESTIVAL PAGE 47

MAKING MISCHIEF THE LATEST TIPPLE FROM SALCOME GIN

PLUS!

PAGE 51

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TO THE MANOR RE-BORN

PLACEs TO EAT AND DRINK IN TOTNES

AN INTERVIEW WTH MICHAEL CAINES PAGE 54

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M A I N S

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otnes is effortlessly cool; chic bars and art galleries sit happily alongside charity shops and alternative therapy clinics. Unlike Glastonbury, which is unashamedly New Age, Totnes fuses hippy counterculture with middle class money. It feels a bit like Bristol but on a more condensed level, which makes it a refreshingly different place to visit in Devon, where the towns are traditionally (and politically) more conservative. Totnes’ rebellious streak means that it’s a haven for independent businesses, which thrive away from the competition of the traditional British high street. Like Bristol, they even have their own currency: the Totnes pound.

Little wonder, then, that it has built a bit of a cult foodie following in recent years, as cafés and wine bars have cropped up across the town. Here are some of our favourites…

BOhEMIAN RhAPSOdY HIP AND HAPPENING TOTNES IS A MECCA OF INDEPENDENT CAFES AND BISTROS, AS MELISSA STEWART DISCOVERS

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Clockwise from far left: salad bar at Seeds 2 Totnes; aerial view of Totnes; Sunday lunch at Rumour; fresh pasta from Beyond Escapes; and pretty tableware at Riverford Field Kitchen

BRILLIANT BREKKIES

If you’re looking for a hearty feed before hitting the shops, then the Waterside Bistro is a good shout. As well as the traditional English breakfast and veggie alternative, this relaxed riverside venue serves up Belgian waffles with hot chocolate sauce or, for a healthier option, homemade granola. Can't make brekkie? Check them out for lunch or dinner, too. Also worth a look is Mangetout, an artsy café at the top of Fore Street. Try the shakshuka – two organic eggs, baked in their own terracotta pot with a Middle Eastern tomato and red pepper sauce. Or, if you’re driving into Totnes from the Dartington side, then make a stop at The Almond Thief. This bakery knocks out legendary poached eggs on sourdough toast with a diverse range of toppings, like smoked haddock, mustard and saffron.

COOL COFFEES

If you like a caffeine hit, Totnes is awash with cafés serving up excellent coffee. Our pick is The Hairy Barista at the start of The Narrows. It’s a proper hipster joint, beloved by locals, which has a huge selection of speciality coffees to suit every taste; a great range of cakes, including gluten-free and vegan options; and some cool tunes on the stereo. No less cool, but a wee bit more chic, is The Curator Café on The Plains. Run by Italian-born Matteo Lamaro, it serves up artisan Italian coffee prepared on a 30-year-old wood fired roaster. Enjoy your espresso with authentic biscotti outdoors and watch the world go by.

LUNCH BUNCH

One thing Totnes has definitely got nailed is catering for veggies and vegans. Seeds 2 Totnes may have a somewhat odd name, but its salad bar is the absolute business. Grab a plate, pile it high with a multi-coloured assortment of healthy goodies from the self-service salad bar and pull up a pew at one of the communal benches. It’s

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great value for money, and all food and soft drinks are prepared fresh on the premises. Another veggie institution is Willow; head there for a phone-free lunch – yup, mobiles are banned – giving you the headspace to enjoy your food and your surroundings. For a more traditional café vibe, we like Woods Bistro in The Narrows.

It’s perhaps not as aesthetically cool as some of its neighbours, but the customer service is amazing, and they deliver some mean classics like ham, egg and chips and a proper beefburger. For a taste of France, visit Mon Oncle Jean, tucked away at the bottom of the High Street. Choose from a range of fillings served in savoury buckwheat galettes or sweet crepes (both gluten-free), as well as a delicious Marseille fish soup. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, skip the multitude of cakes on offer in Totnes and instead make a beeline for Delphini’s Gelato. We’re not lying when we say they make the best ice cream for miles. You’ve heard of ‘death by chocolate’? Well, wait ’til you try their vegan dark chocolate – it’s devilishly moreish.

SUPER SUPPERS

How nice to be spoilt for choice when choosing an independent eatery for dinner. Locals head to Rumour, which is as much a bar as a restaurant, with a laidback vibe. Go there for homemade pizza or, from the a la carte menu, try crispy duck with watermelon and watercress, or roasted aubergine stuffed with lamb belly. For tapas, we like Ben’s Wine & Tapas on the High Street (owned by Ben Watson from the Riverford family), which does small plates taking their influence from Spanish, North African, Middle Eastern and Mexican cuisine. Try the beetroot borani – a vibrant, earthy dip, topped with crunchy walnuts, tangy feta and dill and served with sourdough, or the sardines, which come on lightly toasted focaccia with a piquant coriander and pepper mojo verde sauce. They also do tapas to go, and sell all of their wines by the bottle – ideal for a cosy night in. Or head to Jano – an authentic family-run Italian that’s got an informal, yet intimate, vibe. Sit back as staff expertly talk you through the menu and then, after you’ve gorged on your plate of freshly-made spaghetti, try the dreamy zabaione. If it’s a hearty feed you’re after, head to Pie Street, which unsurprisingly is all about the pies. Steak and Devon Blue (from Ticklemore Dairy) is a winner, and you can have it gluten-free if you order ahead.

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M A I N S

From left: small plates from Ben′s Wine & Tapas; cake at Mangetout; and service with a smile at Riverford Field Kitchen

POUR US A PINT

Beer lovers will love a visit to Totnes Brewing Company, a small independent family-run brewery near the town’s Norman Castle. As well as brewing their own beer, they stock over 80 other varieties from suppliers worldwide. Upstairs is the Barrel House Ballroom, which holds regular live gigs if you’re up for a boogie.

The community-run New Lion Brewery, near the train station, is another micro-brewery worth a look. It has a pop-bar on Friday and Saturday nights where we’re partial to a pint of the Pandit IPA, a smooth citrusy ale. For a drink by the River Dart, visit the Steam Packet Inn on St Peter’s Quay – a family-friendly joint that does a mean Sunday roast. We also like the stopping for a G&T on a sunny day at The Royal Seven Stars Hotel. Situated at the bottom of Fore Street, it’s a great place to people watch. It’s also an ideal resting spot for the night, if you plan on staying over.

ON THE OUTSKIRTS

To escape the bustle of Totnes, go for a walk around Dartington Hall Estate gardens and then stop for a bite at The Green Table, a vibrant café with a cool vibe (see our review on page 65), or if you want the full restaurant experience head to the The White Hart, situated in the estate’s stunning Great Hall. Away from the estate, check out newlyopened Beyond Escapes, a boutique hotel with a coastal-inspired restaurant. Seared scallops served with Parmesan, herb crumb and toasted sourdough is one of the most popular menu choices.

No trip to the Totnes area is complete without dropping into Sharpham Estate’s vineyard, one of the oldest in Devon. Sample the wines and then enjoy an excellent al fresco lunch of fresh mussels at the Cellar Door. And, if you’re mad about veg, then make a detour to Riverford Field Kitchen. The Watson family’s flagship restaurant consistently creates excellent fodder using produce direct from the farm. A recent visit’s highlight was pan-fried mackerel with tomatoes and pickled purslane.

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QUICK! NOW ADD THIS LITTLE LOT TO YOUR CONTACT BOOK...

Waterside Bistro; watersidebistro.com Mangetout; mangetoutdeli.com The Almond Thief; thealmondthief.com The Hairy Barista; facebook.com/thehairybarista The Curator Café; italianfoodheroes.com Seeds 2 Totnes; facebook.com/Seeds2totnes Willow; facebook.com/WillowRestaurantTotnes Woods Bistro; facebook.com/WoodsBistro.1 Mon Oncle Jean; mononclejean.com Delphini’s Gelato; facebook.com/pg/delphinisgelato Rumour; rumourtotnes.com Ben’s Wine & Tapas; bensfarmshop.co.uk/shops/wine-tapas Jano; janotasteofsunshine.co.uk Pie Street; piestreet.co.uk Totnes Brewing Company; thetotnesbrewingco.co.uk New Lion Brewery; newlionbrewery.co.uk Steam Packet Inn; steampacketinn.co.uk The Royal Seven Stars Hotel; royalsevenstars.co.uk The Green Table; dartington.org/visit/food-drink/the-green-table The White Hart; dartington.org/visit/food-drink/white-hart Beyond Escapes; beyondescapes.co.uk Cellar Door; sharpham.com/cafe Riverford Field Kitchen; fieldkitchen.riverford.co.uk

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A village pub celebrating food and drink

Tel: 01409 231888 info@blackriverinn.co.uk www.blackriverinn.co.uk Broad Street, Black Torrington, Devon, EX21 5PT

SUNDAY ROAST SUNDAY ROAST SERVED 12–3PM | ALL YEAR ROUND COCKTAIL CLUB 2 FOR £10 ALL DAY SUNDAY & 5-7PM WEEKDAYS 30 HIGH STREET

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WWW.RUMOURTOTNES.COM

TOTNES |

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TQ9 5RY

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INFO@RUMOURTOTNES

01803 864682 @RUMOURTOTNES

Trencherman’s Pub of the Year 2016

The Swan is the oldest pub in the charming historic town of Bampton, near Exmoor National Park, an area well known for its hunting, fishing, shooting and popular with ramblers and cyclists.

We have a passion for food and with this we like to embrace the use of local produce, keeping menus simple, yet bursting with flavours and imagination.

We take pride in our well kept, locally sourced ales and fine wines, to whet the appetites and suit all tastes.

Eat, Drink & Sleep At the Swan, Bampton

T. 01398 332248 E. info@theswan.co www.theswan.co Bampton | Tiverton | Devon | EX16 9NG

ShOULd we eat meat?

THIS IS THE HOT TOPIC UP FOR DEBATE AT ONE OF THIS YEAR’S DARTMOUTH FOOD FESTIVAL EVENTS. WE GOT A SNEAKY PREVIEW OF WHAT TO EXPECT FROM THE PLAYERS INVOLVED

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MAT T AUS T I N

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“Biologically, we’re carnivores; evolutionary, we’re carnivores; and also, culturally, we’re farmers. What separates us from the animal world is our ability to manipulate our own environment, and one way we do that is through farming.”

Meat eaters we historically may be, but is this enough of an argument for continuing to eat it, particularly as the global population rises and, with it, the number of people eating meat? Shane, who as head of Slow Food in the UK is committed to campaigning for better food for all, argues that for the food industry to sustain itself we all need to be cutting back on the volume of meat we eat.

“Globally, we’ve roughly doubled our meat consumption over the past 50 years, which isn’t sustainable,” he says. “And we’re seeing countries that traditionally didn’t eat much meat, like China, consuming far more than they previously did. My view would be that we need to eat much less meat, and we have to be mindful of where our meat is coming from. We need to ditch all the snackables and lunchables. Meat used to be eaten once a day, or as leftovers from your main meal and turned into something else, and we’d eat far smaller quantities. We should go back to that, and cherish the meat we eat.”

Eating less meat or, in his own case, no meat, is something that Tom, a vegan, hugely advocates, not just for ethical reasons but for the wider impact on the environment. “There is a general consensus between nutritionists, health specialists and environmental organisations that we should all eat less meat – quite a lot less, in fact – for both our own health and for the health of the environment,”

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I M AG E S : M AT T AU S T I N , NE I L W HI T E , M I K E LU S M OR E

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he 2018 Dartmouth Food Festival is shaping up to be a good one. Alongside the usual smorgasbord of exhibitor stalls, chef demos and copious amounts of tasty food, there’ll be some lively discussions around the state of the UK food industry. One such chat, which will take place in the Eat Your Words yurt on the Saturday, is entitled ‘Clash of the Carnivores’. It centres on the debate around the ethics of eating meat, and brings together Peter Greig from Piper’s Farm, chef and activist Tom Hunt and James Whetlor from Cabrito Goat Meat, with the chat chaired by Shane Holland from Slow Food in the UK. Ahead of what’s sure to be an animated conversation, we had a quick chat with the panel to get a taster of what to expect.

There’s no denying that the number of vegans in the UK has risen.

Research from the Vegan Society in 2016 estimates that there are now around 540,000 UK vegans, up from 150,000 in 2006. The vegan food industry is also booming, with the UK market for meatfree foods worth £572m, and this is expected to rise to £658m by 2021, according to Mintel. So, is this just another millennial-driven foodie trend, or a wider move by people to cut out meat altogether?

And, if so, should we all be following suit?

“I don’t accept the idea that eating meat is in some way inherently unethical,” says James, owner of Cabrito Goat Meat, who champions the use of kid goat meat as a foodstuff rather than the kids being unnecessarily euthanised as a by-product of the dairy industry.

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Fielding opinions from (L-R) James Whetlor, Peter Greig and Tom Hunt

they’re selling. “If you are the chairman or CEO of a supermarket, he says. “Reducing our meat intake is the biggest thing we can and you’re selling horsemeat and labelling it as beef, you shouldn’t do to reduce our environmental impact, alongside reducing our be able to weasel out of any blame. You’re culpable for it,” he says. waste. The World Resources Institute and UN Food and Agricultural “You’ve gone back to the supplier and said, ‘We need you to cut the Organisation estimate that, globally, meat production is responsible price, we need you to cut the price,’ and then turned the other way for between 14% and 18% of human greenhouse gas emissions.” when the price kept dropping. You’re not asking the question, ‘How Cutting back on meat is one thing, but, argues Shane, it’s not as come you can sell me ground beef for half the price of the other simple as saying meat eating = bad, and veganism = good. guy?’ I think you can legislate by making buyers in supermarkets “The issue is that many vegan products are just as industrially and responsible for what’s on their shelves and not let them pass that intensely produced as many animal products,” he says. “I appreciate responsibility onto the producer, which is what currently happens.” if you’re an ethical vegan and for you it’s about sentient beings being This also leads onto the role of the consumer in all this. At what treated badly, but if we’re talking about high-impact industrial point should we, as individuals, start taking responsibility for what agriculture that’s harming the planet because it’s kicking up huge we put in our mouths? Tom says that, until we start taking ownership amounts of carbon then you can’t go much more wrong than buying a of our choices, things are unlikely to improve. soy burger from Lidl for 50p, because to create that requires chopping “I believe we’ve become disconnected from down the rainforest, making it just as bad as a Lidl our food and its origins and, ultimately, nature,” chicken burger.”

FOOD FOR THOUGHT he says. “This is causing us, and the world, With this in mind, perhaps the focus of the Here are a few other Eat Your Word all sorts of problems, which is essentially the conversation needs to shift away from unhelpful sessions worth checking out at this globalisation of our food system. I found that headlines pitting meat eating against veganism, year’s festival… even though I’m someone who is obsessed and onto a wider conversation around where our with food and good food, I was still eating meat food comes from and how it’s produced.

Is the customer really always right? that I was unsure of in terms of its quality and “If you’re going to have a mature discussion Restaurateurs Mitch its origins. You can’t always find that out when about this, you cannot simply take a generic Tonks and Freddy Bird (Bristol you’re at a restaurant, or buying from a butcher.” definition of meat, and then say all of it is Lido) discuss how much customers shape and influence restaurants.

For Tom, cutting out meat from his diet basically the same,” agrees Peter, whose completely was the simplest way to avoid eating business, Piper’s Farm, champions sustainable Our recipes for success low-welfare cuts, but for those of us who can’t livestock farming through slow grown, purely Chef Romy Gill (Romy’s Kitchen), food face going vegan full-time, what should we be grass-reared animals. writer and cookery teacher Charlotte Pike (Field & Fork School) and doing to improve the quality of the meat we eat “From our point of view, the most important entrepreneur Julie Waddell (Love here in the UK? component of the discussion is to make a clear Moorish) share their top tips for “Supermarkets react to supply and demand. distinction between systems of meat production. foodie start-ups.

As consumers, we need to say we’re not going to At Piper’s, our belief in our system of meat buy things like cheap chicken breasts any more,” Kitchen confidential production takes absolute account of the natural Your chance to quiz chefs including urges Shane. “Then they’d be off the shelves. If world around us, and the incredible tapestry Mitch Tonks, Romy Gill, Tom Hunt, we all started saying we’re going to shop for meat of biodiversity within which we operate. Our Matt Tebbutt, Freddy Bird and in farmers’ markets, in high-welfare butchers, job as farmers is not only food production, Luke Holder. and from brands like Piper’s, then we’d see an but as guardians of an incredibly precious and For times and tickets, visit increase in the availability of quality products.” complex landscape that has been around for dartmouthfoodfestival.com And James agrees. “One of the best pieces of many millions of years. Be in no doubt, nature advice I was given when I started as a chef was is an incredible force and, as farmers, we do not to buy the best products you can and don’t f*ck with them,” he says. respect it at our peril.”

“If you’re having a pork roast, buy the best pork you can. The meat Unfortunately, not all farmers practise the same responsible, slow will be a bit more expensive, but that’s a good thing, as it means you food farming methods as Peter and the team at Piper’s. The demand eat less, so meat production goes down, which is good for the planet. from supermarkets and the food industry for a 52-weeks-a-year And it’s good for people producing meat in the ‘right way’ – free supply of cheap meat means that industrial and intensive farming range, chemical free, with good genetics. Those people will have methods are still prevalent across the UK. their livelihoods supported.”

“Can we blame the farmer?” asks Shane. “Consumers like blaming farmers, but if a farmer’s not able to produce a product at the price a consumer wants to pay for it, I can’t blame them. I don’t think the To hear James, Peter, Tom and Shane discuss this topic in consumer knows the consequences of what they’re asking for.” more depth, sign up to the free Eat Your Words session at For James, the buck stops with the supermarkets; he believes the Dartmouth Food Festival, at 11.15am on Saturday 20th that tougher legislation should be brought in to regulate what October; dartmouthfoodfestival.com

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Deliciously different events catering

Bespoke Catering

perfect for parties, perfect for you

Fresh, Local and Seasonal Food. An every occasion restaurant

44 High Street, Budleigh Salterton, EX9 6LQ Tel: 07542 583247, Email: paula@titleygreen.co.uk

36 Admiralty Street, Plymouth, Devon PL1 3RU 01752 253247 • info@thefigtreeat36.co.uk www.thefigtreeat36.co.uk

www.titleygreen.co.uk

In partnership with Vanilla Sky Deli/Eatery

MAKING MISCHIEF WE LOVE A BRAND WITH BOLD AMBITION, AND SALCOMBE GIN HAS GOT IT IN SPADES, AS WE FOUND OUT AT THE LAUNCH OF ITS LATEST ‘VOYAGER SERIES’ GIN

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he chaps at Salcombe Gin really know their stuff – not just when it comes to making gin, but also when it comes to creating an aspirational brand. You won’t find a bottle in your nearest Tesco or Asda; they’re all about exclusivity. Case in point: this summer, founders Angus Lugsdin and Howard Davies took a branded Bentley and a RIB and travelled from Salcombe to the Solent, James Bond-style, making high-definition videos of their ‘Spirit of Salcombe’ adventure along the way. A great bit of publicity, and a chance to hook up with sailing clubs and restaurants to spread the Salcombe Gin word to their well-heeled clientele across the coast. And there’s also their yacht delivery service, where they drop off gin hampers to nautical visitors to Salcombe. Yes, we told you they were exclusive. Not that this is a bad thing.

Indeed, this is a brand that’s positioned itself at the very top of the ever-growing gin market and very much intends to stay there.

Their latest brand-building exercise is perhaps the most exciting yet. Salcombe Gin has teamed up with world-renowned chefs and iconic winemakers to launch a set of limited edition ‘Voyager Series’ gins. First up was ‘Arabella’, made in collaboration with Devon’s very own Michael Caines and named after one of Salcombe’s 18th century fruit schooners. We got a taste of the high life when we were treated to a lunch at Lympstone Manor for the launch, and let’s just say both the gin, and the food we had with it, were exceptional.

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M A I N S

Salcombe Gin founders Howard Davies and Angus Lugsdin

Only 1,200 bottles of Mischief have been produced and, as with Arabella, it is presented in a gorgeous white ceramic bottle with a bespoke copper stopper. Bottles are priced £65 each, and are available from Salcombe Gin Distillery or online at salcombegin.com

TASTE OF THE ADVENTURE

SALCOMBE GIN SCALLYWAG RE A L LY GO O D ME DI A CO MPA NY

The second launch is ‘Mischief’, named after another Salcombe schooner, and this time in collaboration with chef and restauranteur Mark Hix. The launch coincides with the 10th anniversary of HIX Restaurants, and is a celebration of the South West coastline. With provenance central to Mark’s culinary offering, the gin has a traditional juniper background, fused with classic culinary combinations of orange, bay and cardamom. Wild fennel flowers foraged from the shoreline in Salcombe combine with samphire to add a coastal aroma and mild floral anise note.

“I chose to work with Salcombe Gin to create a traditional London Dry gin to commemorate our 10th anniversary, because I believe that they create truly world class gins, well-balanced in flavour and exceptional in taste,” says Mark. “Having grown up in West Bay, Bridport, a seaside town on the Dorset coast, I also feel a connection with the brand and their love of refreshing coastal flavours and use of foraged ingredients. Together, we have used the finest local and regional produce to create a gin to be enjoyed at HIX restaurants, at home – or even on the water.”

Chef Mark Hix knows a thing or two about flavour combinations. His ‘Scallywag’ cocktail marries fresh orange, fennel flowers and samphire, combined with a touch of cardamom and pastis, to create a cocktail inspired by the South West coastline.

40ml Salcombe Gin Voyager Series ‘Mischief’ 15ml Knightor Rosé Vermouth 10ml Sacred Rosehip Cup 15ml freshly squeezed lemon juice 15ml orange sherbet 6 drops pastis 4 drops of cardamom bitters 25ml Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water To garnish Foraged fennel flower Sprig of samphire Flamed orange peel

Keen to try Salcombe Gin for yourself? They’re popping up at foodie events across Devon in the coming weeks, including Powderham Food Festival (6-7 October), Dartmouth Food Festival (19-21 October) and Exeter Christmas Market (15 November - 16 December).

They’re also co-hosting a Gin & Gastronomy evening at Glazebrook House Hotel on 18 October (see glazebrookhouse.com for more info). For a more handson experience, book a trip to Salcombe Gin School, where, for £100 per person, you can learn the art of making gin and create your own unique 70cl bottle of the stuff to take home. salcombegin.com

1 Fill an Old Fashioned glass with ice and place on one side.

2 Fill a Boston shaker with ice, add the gin, vermouth, rosehip cup, lemon juice, orange sherbet, pastis and bitters, and shake vigorously for 10 seconds.

3 Long pour the mixture through a double strainer into the glass. Top up with the tonic water.

4 Garnish with a sprig of fresh samphire, a foraged fennel flower and twist of orange peel that has been flamed over the glass.

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DEVON’S FINEST Two exceptional Devon hotels, where fine food comes naturally.

Whether you’re dropping in for a spot of lunch, a light evening bite,or a superb three course dinner, you’ll find the very best local,seasonal ingredients at the heart of the menu.

For a daytime treat, a traditional afternoon tea is hard to resist.Or enjoy the simple pleasures of a perfectly prepared coffee or a fine craft ale from Dartmoor Brewery, in welcoming surroundings.

James and Charlie are delighted to launch their new menu, featuring a mix of pub classics and fantastic new specials. Come and give it a try!

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In the heart of Tavistock

Plymouth Road | Tavistock | PL19 8BB 01822 613221 www.bedford-hotel.co.uk

In the heart of Dartmoor

Clyst Hydon, Cullompton, Devon, EX15 2NT Tel: 01884 277288 | www.fivebells.uk.com Just 10 mins from the M5 at Junction 28 (Cullompton) & 20 mins from Exeter.

Two Bridges | Dartmoor | PL20 6SW 01822 892300 www.twobridges.co.uk

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MICHAEL CAINES WE QUIZ MICHAEL ABOUT HIS FIRST YEAR AND A HALF AT THE HELM OF LYMPSTONE MANOR, AND DISCOVER IT’S VERY MUCH A CASE OF (AHEM) ‘TO THE MANOR RE-BORN’

WO R DS: M E L I S S A S T E WA R T I M AG E S: J O H N N I E WA L K E R

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ichael Caines is lord of his own manor and relishing every minute of it. Lympstone Manor opened amidst much fanfare 18 months ago, and it really is Michael’s baby. He lovingly restored the crumbling Georgian pile on the Exe Estuary, putting his culinary swagger front and centre. Within six months it earned its first Michelin star, and looks on target this year for a second.

As well as running the show at Lympstone, Michael is also the driving force behind Exeter Festival of South West Food and Drink and the Michael Caines Academy at Exeter College. He also lends his name and works, in a consultancy capacity, at The Coach House at Kentisbury Grange; pops up on TV shows like Saturday Kitchen and MasterChef; and does guest cooking spots at prestigious restaurants across the country. Oh, and since 2011 he’s also worked with Williams F1 Team, bringing food and hospitality to the team and their entourage over race weekends.

But, despite his hectic lifestyle, Michael considers himself more rooted than ever.

“I haven’t been as settled or stable in a property ever in my life,” he says. “I’m at Lympstone six days a week, unless I’m away on business, at a Grand Prix or doing an event. My office is here, and my main day-to-day tasks and focus are on Lympstone Manor.”

Chatting with Michael, it’s clear that he’s all about the vision – executing those big ideas. After leaving Gidleigh in January 2016, following 21 years of service, there was only ever one objective: to create and run a place of his own.

“I never knew Lympstone Manor existed,” he says. “It was previously called Courtlands Estate, and someone suggested I look here back in 2014. I found an amazing property that was pretty rundown, with a fabulous view and landscape. It was instinctive that I knew it would make a great hotel, restaurant and vineyard.”

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With the confidence of investors behind him, he set about reinventing the manor for a 21st century clientele, opening its doors in January 2017. Eighteen months on, he’s pleased to say its exceeding his expectations.

“This time last year it still felt very raw, but now it feels a lot easier,” he says. “We do have issues with staffing in our industry, but we’re dealing with them and building a better base of experience. We’re ahead of last year and now pushing on. I can’t lie, though: I got everything I wanted out of my first year. We’ve financially exceeded our expectations and achieved the goals I set – we are members of Relais & Châteaux, and we’ve got one Michelin star and a five-star AA rating. I also wanted to get the vineyard planted, which has added a huge amount of interest and value to the business.”

Ah yes, the vineyard. Having trained in France under the tutelage of esteemed chefs Bernard Loiseau and Joël Robuchon, Michael always dreamed that one day he’d be able to emulate the style of the classic French chateaux, marrying fabulous food with first-rate, homegrown wine. Thankfully, Lympstone Manor’s location lends itself well to growing grapes, with south facing slopes right by the river, a low altitude and (most of the time) a good climate.

“There’s a proverb, ‘the best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago, and the second-best time is now.’ The sooner we planted the vineyard, the sooner we can get the benefit of it. I want to produce classic English sparkling wines made with the grapes of Champagne – Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay. We plan to make a rosé and a brut, and maybe even a couple of still wines on occasion. We’ve planted 17,500 vines in 10.5 acres and our first grapes will be ready in 2020.”

To run the vineyard, Michael has employed James Matyear, who previously worked as viticulturalist at Hattingley Valley Wines. All going well, the first bottles will be ready for consumption in 2024.

“We’re excited to see what the characteristics of the wine will be,” Michael says. “Being by the estuary, it might have some lovely

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saline notes to it, as well as the minerality. People come here and they say, ‘Where’s the vineyard?’, and I say, ‘See that field out there? It will be over there.’”

For Michael, this is very much his Field of Dreams moment, and he’s confident that the vineyard will attract customers from far and wide. “It’s so nice to see it finally take shape,” he says.

While he waits for his own vines to bear fruit, he’s putting his energies this autumn into celebrating the Burgundy and Bordeaux wine regions of France. As well as offering some exceptional and rare vintages by the glass, he will be showcasing the wines by hosting two special wine dinners.

“We’ve got an amazing line-up of wines that have been selected by Steven Edwards, our operations director, and Marko Mägi, our head sommelier,” says Michael. “The yields in Burgundy and Bordeaux have been poor, plus there’s an increased demand from places like China, so we’ve paid top dollar to invest in them. We have a wine room that allows us to dispense 24 wines by the glass. We’ll put these rare wines on the machines, so customers can have a wine that usually costs hundreds or thousands of pounds per bottle in a smaller measure.

We’ll also do a bit of tutoring, as well. For me, there are things you can do in life that are a one-off, and this is one of them. It’s very rare that you’ll see this quality, selection and vintage of wines. We’re very lucky.”

Focusing on quality and the finer detail are very much hallmarks of the Michael Caines brand – a brand that he confidently controls from the front. Not a chef to hide away in the kitchen, he understands the value of being visible. He gets that it’s him that people come to see as much as his hotel, and says: “The persona of ‘celebrity’ is often misunderstood or misquoted but, at the end of the day, people say, ‘We love you, we love your food, we enjoy watching you on TV, so we’re here.’ When people read about you and you are absent from your business, that’s noticeable, so that’s why I spend a lot of my time here, because when people come they want to see me. The house is an extension of my personality and my imagination in every sense.”

Entrepreneurialism, drive and an uncompromising creative vision… Doesn’t it all get a bit wearing? Carrying the burden of so

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much pressure and expectation surely must get tiresome at times. What, I ask, drives Michael Caines to get out of bed in the morning, and to work so hard at what he does?

“Fear of failure. For a long time, I didn’t know where I was going to end up. I describe Gidleigh as a love affair. I asked it to marry me, it said no, so I didn’t know what I was going to do. Now, when you open something, the fear of failure – of letting down not just yourself, but the people who work for you – drives you to do a better job. ” With so much business chat, it’s almost easy to forget the food. Michael is known for his contemporary spin on classic European cooking, so what’s influencing him right now? “As a chef I have been classically trained by great chefs, but I apply it in a contemporary way. For me, food is all about great flavour. When I worked and lived in France, you understand that the culture of eating food is equally as important as creating it.

“If you’re in London, everybody is watching what everyone else is doing and copying each other, but I don’t worry about that: I have my style, and cook what I want to. Some might call it ego, but it’s unashamedly my vision. We’ve got a repertoire of great ideas that keep evolving. I’m all about fine dining in a relaxed setting – I call it casual-fine. When I go out, I don’t necessarily want to sit on a wooden chair with a reindeer hide because the owners have been to Noma; we’re British, so my style is quintessentially British. The fashion in food these days leans towards presentation – the plates, crockery and so on – but the ideas behind the food are much more long-standing.”

With Devon very much Michael’s home, he’s keen to see the county get the credit it deserves for its culinary pedigree.

“The Devon food scene is the most exciting it’s been for a while,” he says. “In terms of Michelin star restaurants, we’ve got Thomas Carr up in Ilfracombe, we’ve got Simon Hulstone in Torquay, we’ve got Mark Dobson at The Masons Arms... Lympstone is the first Michelin star restaurant in East Devon ever, which is good. Behind that, we’ve got places like the Dartmoor Inn, The Salutation Inn, Jack in the Green, The Rusty Pig… all doing great things. There are lots of nice little eateries around the Devon coastline, too.

“I don’t know why people go all the way down to Cornwall, frankly, when they can come here. Devon offers more, but it still has a lot to do in terms of promoting its regional identity. It’s all about getting the right chefs in and creating the right culture, and that comes down to the owners and the investment these places need to make.”

As our chat draws to a close, it strikes me that Michael hasn’t once mentioned life beyond the manor. Does he have the clichéd ideal of a work/life balance? “Oh shit,” he says. “I don’t worry about it. You don’t manage it – you just get on with it.”

Spoken like a true chef. We’ll raise a glass to that.

To find out more about the Burgandy and Bordeaux events at Lympstone Manor visit lympstonemanor.co.uk

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Located in the Tamar Valley at the gateway to Dartmoor National Park and just a short distance from the bountiful coast at Plymouth, the Moorland Garden Hotel is ideally placed to showcase the best of the region’s ‘surf and turf ’produce.

The Head Chef and his team work with South West producers to deliver a seasonal menu that encapsulates the best of the West Country, with a focus on letting the ingredients speak for themselves. The Wildflower Restaurant is a great place to enjoy every meal of the

day. It looks out over the Hotel’s 9 acres of grounds and the terrace, which is a beautifully sunny place to enjoy a glass of your chosen tipple as the sun sets.

The Dartmoor Bar and Lounge is a great option for catching up over coffee and cake or dining with four-legged friends.

Here locals and guests can enjoy a less formal setting for lunch and dinner, or just meet for a beverage at this convenient stop just outside Plymouth.

TheMoorlandGardenHotel MoorlandGardenH

Moorland Garden Hotel.

Yelverton, Near Plymouth, South Devon, PL20 6DA. Telephone: 01822 852 245. moorlandgardenhotel.co.uk

We are an independent, friendly coffee and cake rooms passionate about quality local and fresh ingredients.

Full menu available with breakfasts, snacks and lunches Vegan menu, cakes and scones • Gluten free menu, cakes and scones • Cream teas and high teas Custom-made celebration, birthday and novelty cakes Regular vegan and gluten free workshops Dog friendly • Child friendly 2 Bank Street, Teignmouth, TQ14 8AL www.perryliciouscoffeeandcakerooms.co.uk

Reach the best in the west Affluent, active and influential and just a call away

Crumbs team 01225 475800

AFTERS

FREQUENTED, NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CATHFÉS T OF THEM NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND WHAT WE OUGH HIGHLIGHTS

ON THE ROCKS

LUNCHING AT THE NEWLY REVAMPED GARA ROCK PAGE 60

HOME GROWN HYPER-LOCAL FOOD AT THE BEAR AND BLACKSMITH PAGE 62

The village of Chillington, home to The Bear and Blacksmith, dates back 1,000 years (yes, to Saxon times!)

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spa and restaurant. The location is stunning, with the hotel literally hugging the coastline and offering breathtaking views of the South Devon coast.

On arrival, we’re enthused to see a number of visitors taking advantage of the outdoor seating area and the atmosphere is buzzing.

We’re lucky enough to nab a seat in the restaurant by the window, so we can soak up our lush surroundings. The décor of the hotel is rustic and contemporary, with dark wooden floors, a metro-tiled bar area and lots of leafy green plants. It’s got a chilled vibe and is not at all stuffy, with plenty of families and wellbehaved pooches milling around.

The challenge for Gara Rock is straddling that balance between catering for coastal walkers who are after some light refreshment, while at the same time creating something a little bit more special for hotel guests and holidaymakers. Looking at the menu, it’s clear that the new proprietors have decided to try to cater for the latter crowd, foregoing your usual café-style sandwiches, jacket potatoes and chips in favour of more ambitious dishes.

Snacks include breakfast radishes and smoked cod’s roe (£4), Coombeshead Farm sourdough (£4), and Porthilly oysters (£18 for six); while sandwich fillings include Devon crab, radish and garden herbs (£11), and salt beef with nettle sauerkraut (£10). There are also meat and fish sharing boards (from £17.50).

We opt to choose from the main lunch menu, which offers a choice of five starters, seven mains and three salads. There’s a range of dishes, with your typical seaside staples of fish and chips, mussels and burgers sitting

( C O A S TA L H A N G O U T )

GARA ROCK MELISSA STEWART CHECKS OUT THIS RECENTLY REOPENED COASTAL RETREAT, AND FINDS A VENUE THAT’S BRIMMING WITH POTENTIAL

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ne of the delights of Devon for outdoorsy types is the South West Coastal Path. Nothing quite beats the taste of a refreshing pint and a hearty plate of grub after negotiating a few miles of rugged terrain.

This means that Gara Rock should be a coastal walker’s dream. Based in East Portlemouth, near Salcombe, it has recently reopened after a major refurb and offers a boutique hotel,

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alongside fancier fodder, such as duck leg with lentils and salsa verde, and herb ravioli with girolles and chard.

My lunch companion starts with a gazpacho (£6), while I open with smoked mackerel, pickled rhubarb and horseradish (£8.50).

The gazpacho packs a Mediterranean punch, evoking sunnier summer days, and it’s a hearty bowlful. The only thing lacking is a leafy garnish or a hunk of that sourdough to go with it. The mackerel fillet is delicious, and the tangy rhubarb makes for the ideal accompaniment. I could have done with a bit more kick in my horseradish but, overall, it is a satisfying Scandi-inspired dish and well presented.

When by the sea, I always have an urge for seafood, so opt for a bowl of fritto misto (£9.50) and a green side salad (£3.50) for main.

The prawns are succulent, the whitebait strong and salty, and the squid is sweet and not too chewy. All are encased in a light, fluffy batter and served with a good dollop of aioli. It’s not overly fancy, but hits the right note in our casual chic, coastal setting.

Across the table, my dining buddy opts for the Gara burger, topped with smoked bacon and caramelised onions and served with chips (£14.50). Again, this hits the spot: a perfectly cooked burger, crispy hand-cut chips – a real stomach filler. What lets it down a little is the presentation. With the foodie trend for burgers (as with gin) still in full swing, one comes to expect a bit more flourish in their delivery, rather than just being plonked on the plate. It’s not a big deal but a bit surprising, given that so much thought seems to have gone into every other detail at Gara Rock.

For dessert, my friend and I decide to share chocolate, olive oil and sea salt (£6). This is, by far, the triumph of the meal. The combination of the rich, velvety ganache together with the smooth oil and sea salt offers a terrifically bittersweet experience. Every spoonful leading to another, and then another…

As well as the food, there’s also an extensive drinks menu. The range of homemade cordials is a nice touch for non-drinkers

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looking for something a little different. Plus, there’s a good range of local beers on draught, and a refreshingly long list of wines available by the glass.

We come away from our lunch feeling that Gara Rock has lots to offer. The spectacular setting is worth the visit alone, and it’s been beautifully renovated. Add to that, the staff are a delight. They couldn’t have been more attentive or welcoming. Yes, things were a bit chaotic with the service as the restaurant got busier, but it was the first week and these teething troubles are to be expected.

Overall, our foodie experience was a good one; we couldn’t fault anything we had to eat. But it will be interesting to see how the menu evolves in the coming months, particularly as the season slows and the bulk of passing trade will be walkers. If you’re looking for a cup of tea and a filled roll, this isn’t the place for you. Gara Rock has ramped things up a foodie notch, and is doing something different. I wish them every success. gararock.com

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s you wind your way around the lanes of South Devon, probably heading for, or departing from, one of the many coastal destinations the county has to offer, I have no doubt that sustenance will be somewhere on your itinerary. Look no further than The Bear and Blacksmith, located on the A379 in Chillington near Kingsbridge. Chef and landlord Malcolm Church has over 20 years’ experience under his whites, and is very proud to bring incredibly local and homegrown fayre to all who step across this pub’s threshold.

Where possible, Malcolm and fellow landlord, Claire Mundy, grow and rear as much of the produce they sell in the restaurant as possible. They’ve got a smallholding in South Allington, and grow veg on the land next to the pub. They’ve even got an in-house butcher to help transport the meat directly from field to fork. The team are very transparent about where their ingredients come from, as well as being supportive of local producers who can add to their offering.

We dined on a Friday evening, and it was great to see the pub filled with visitors and locals, families and couples, workers and furry friends – all enjoying a bite to eat or a swift pint.

The menu caters for everyone, with a small pub menu (which, in my opinion, indicates fresh ingredients) and a specials’ board, showcasing the daily catch as well as what’s fresh from the farm that day. Prices are what you’d expect from this type of establishment: starters averaging at £8 and mains at £16.

( G R E AT P U B S )

THE BEAR AND BLACKSMITH LAUREN HEATH HEADS TO CHILLINGTON TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT A PUB THAT’S BEEN BUILDING A BUZZ WITH ITS HOMEGROWN PRODUCE

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First up was a seafood basket with tartare sauce: lightly breaded and oh so tender pieces of fish, prawns, calamari and salt and pepper squid, with a pool of lush homemade tartare sauce. We also enjoyed The Bear and Blacksmith farm belly pork with chutney and toast, a fair chunk of juicy, tender meat with a hearty chutney and toasted homemade bread.

For my guest, the main choice was a simple one – a spicy seashore special of John Dory with Thai crab noodles and whole king prawns. I, on the other hand, struggled to choose, not because of the lack of options but due to the abundance of choice. Opting for lamb, which I don’t cook often at home, the special of Salcombe Meat Company lamb, with boulangere potatoes, sauté vegetables and salsa verde was a winner. A pair of meaty, caveman-like bones arrived, atop of said vegetables, with a well-seasoned potato tower that my knife went through like it was butter. The salsa verde was a vibrant tang for the tastebuds, cutting through the natural fattiness of this delicate yet earthy meat.

I didn’t hear much from the other side of the table – but not to worry, he was devouring his course in happy silence, only taking a breather to tell me he couldn’t fault it. A meaty and perfectly cooked fish fillet lay on a bed of flavoursome skinny noodles – a perfect balance of spicy yet fresh Thai sambal (made fresh, using chillies from the farm) was laced with plenty of sweet crab and, if that wasn’t enough, a trio of prawns topped it all off.

The expertly-crafted desserts – a heavenly chocolate fondant and honeycomb ice cream, and a delicate, yet homely, Bakewell tart – were equally as tasty and warming as our previous courses.

While our beautiful coastline offers a feast for the eyes, The Bear and Blacksmith can certainly take care of your stomach. I’ll be adding this place to my next South Devon itinerary – in fact, I don’t think things can can get more local or fresh than this. thebearandblacksmith.com

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(COSY PUBS)

THE BLACK RIVER INN MELISSA STEWART CHECKS OUT THIS NEWLY-SPRUCED UP PUB IN MID DEVON

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cross Devon there’s a growing list of pubs that have managed to nail the balance between being a cosy boozer for locals and churning out great, affordable food, night after night. The latest pub to add to the list is the Black River Inn in Black Torrington – a village in Mid Devon, roughly between Great Torrington and Okehampton. The venue has recently been bought and refurbished by Gill Churchill and Alex Pallatt, who previously managed The Ram’s Head in Dolton. Alex, who’d served as executive chef at The Ram’s Head, has passed his chef’s whites on to his former colleague Richard Devine, while he focuses on managerial duties.

What’s refreshing about this pub is that it’s not had the full Farrow & Ball gastropub makeover: the walls are white, the roof low, the beams are exposed and there are wooden stools at the bar. In short: a real pub. Seated at a cosy table in the bar area, we peruse the menu, which very much melds hearty pub classics, like rib-eye and chips, with more experimental options, like stone bass with tomato, basil risotto and stuffed courgette. Prices are unlikely to scare the

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horses, either – starters average at £5, while mains are around £16.

(Note: the homemade bread we were given as we made our choices was particularly delish. Fluffy, light, nutty and slightly sweet, perfect with a smear of garlic-infused olive oil.)

I started with pigs’ cheeks. This could’ve been a meal in itself, such was the size – not that I’m complaining! The meat was fabulously tender, sitting in the lap of creamy mash and enveloped in a rich, cheeky gravy. Across the table, Mr Predictable stuck to what he likes best and went for the scallops with an orange purée and served with charred chicory, which he said perfectly complemented the sweetness of the scallops without overpowering them.

My main brought a hint of the Far East to the South West – duck with pickled red cabbage, honey roasted figs, fondant potato and five-spice jus. A juicy pink duck breast sat alongside a moist ball of confit duck leg rolled in breadcrumbs, making a decadent, rich and sticky dish. Mr Predictable’s rib-eye didn’t disappoint, either – the plate was clean within the blink of an eye.

Full to the gunnels, I skipped dessert and ordered a peppermint tea, while across the table a crème brûlée was ordered. Again, this was on point: burnt on top, creamy and full of vanilla goodness underneath.

My tea arrived with handmade petit fours. It’s small touches like this – along with the homemade bread and butter, and the tot of homemade rum liqueur at the end of the meal – that customers remember, and which adds a personal touch to the whole experience.

The Black River Inn ticks all the right boxes for a country pub that does good food and has friendly, welcoming service.

The only drawback is the windy lanes we had to drive down to find it – but don’t let that put you off, as it’s worth getting lost for. blackriverinn.co.uk

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(COOL CAFES)

THE GREEN TABLE IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A YUMMY LUNCH IN A STUNNING SETTING, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THIS COOL CAFÉ ON THE DARTINGTON ESTATE, SAYS MELISSA STEWART

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ere at Crumbs we’ve long been fans of the Shops at Dartington, particularly the Food Shop (funnily enough!), but our knowledge of the wider Dartington estate was pretty limited. So, when we heard on our travels about The Green Table – a hipster café sitting in the middle of it – we were mightly intrigued.

The Dartington Hall estate spans 1,200 acres of land in South Devon. In the 1920s it was the location of the ‘Dartington Experiment’, wherein owners Dorothy and Leonard Elmhirst began to explore how a place could change the world. It brought together artists, philosophers and educators to explore different ways of living and thinking, setting up a host of farming, forestry and educational projects. Almost 100 years on, the estate is still going strong. It’s got the vibe of a traditional stately home mixed with a college campus – think National Trust property meets Glastonbury, with country dog walking types in Hunter wellies milling around with lots of creative hipsters in Breton tops and well-trimmed beards.

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The Green Table definitely sits in the hipster category. Although situated in a converted farm building, its aesthetic is decidedly urban. It’s bright and vibrant, with turquoise painted walls, geometric prints on the walls and the tabletops, and industrial lighting.

While modern in style, the décor is, in fact, a nod to the past, with the prints inspired by designs taken from the estate’s former textile mill, and the wooden countertop made from a local fallen pine tree.

The canteen-style layout gives it an American vibe, with a countertop laden with baked goodies, chalkboard menus and an enticing salad bar. Chef Tara Vaughan-Hughes originally hails from Vermont, so the menu is also US-inspired. The food changes daily, depending on what’s in season, and what’s available from the recently restored estate walled garden. What remains consistent is the format – a soup, a salad plate, three choices of grilled sandwich and three choices of main (both offering an omnivore, a veggie and a vegan option). There’s also a kids’ menu, where you can get anything from the main menu as a half portion, or they can go for a kids’ cheese melt or peanut butter and jam sandwich (see that American influence we told you about?).

I opted for a grilled sandwich with Riverford chive cream cheese and ‘Gazpacho’ vegetables, flavoured with tarragon and Amantillado sherry. Much like the venue, it was a bright, vibrant explosion of colour on the plate, and full of Mediterranean character too. A pile of cucumber, tomato and peppers gave balance to the generous portion of homemade bread and cream cheese beneath. Across the table, my dining partner opted for courgette and buckwheat griddle cakes, served with tomato chilli jam and fresh radishes. Again, it all makes for a fulfilling lunch, packed with nutrition.

Afterwards we strolled around the estate, taking in its history, heritage and beautiful landscape. We left feeling inspired. If you want to feed your inner creative while chowing down on a healthy, nutritious lunch, then The Green Table is the place to go. dartington.org/visit/food-drink/the-green-table

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L I T T L E

B L A C K

B O O K

AmeLia wiLLiamshawkes AMELIA MANAGES TOPSHAM’S SALUTATION INN, AND SHARES HER FOODIE FAVOURITES…

BEST BREKKIE? Uprising Bakehouse on Magdalen Road in Exeter for eggs and delicious coffee.

WITH THE FAMILY? Bay View Tea rooms in Beer for the best breakfast around, and delicious crab sandwiches.

BEST BREW? A two-bag mix of Earl Grey and English breakfast tea.

CHILD FRIENDLY? Kenniford Farm Shop, for a spot of lunch among the animals.

FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP? Richard’s in Topsham are always on hand, and have a great choice too.

BEST CURRY? We are partial to a Sunday night takeaway from Denley’s in Topsham, but I also love Jasmine Thai on Exeter’s Fore Street.

BEST WINE MERCHANT? We source our wines from a number of places, and find a great variety from Bibendum Wine, Oliver and Bird, Steevenson Wines and Dynamic Vines.

BEST ATMOSPHERE? Pebblebed Wine Cellar in Topsham for communal seating along banquet tables by candlelight.

You just order sharing platters and drink local wine – what more do you want?

SUNDAY LUNCH? The GlassHouse at The Salutation Inn (sorry, I am a little biased!).

SOMETHING SWEET? I’m not a sweet person, so you will find me in Country Cheeses, run by the lovely Gary and Elise.

They’ve got shops in Topsham, Tavistock and Totnes.

QUICK PINT? Whether you get there by bike, boat or paddle board, The Turf is the best pint around, and with undoubtedly the best views.

salutationtopsham.co.uk

POSH NOSH? Home: Lympstone Manor. Away: Core by Clare Smyth, London, or The Seafood Restaurant by Rick Stein in Padstow.

Quick! Now add this little lot to your contacts book...

FOOD ON THE GO? Fish and chips from Greendale Farm Shop. We use Greendale for their amazing fish and meat, as it’s all caught and reared within a few miles from us.

ALFRESCO FEASTING? Beer Head Bistro. My wonderful friend Lauren and her team have taken on the bistro this year, and it has jaw-dropping views serving gorgeous pizza and daily specials.

HIDDEN GEM? El Olivo in Exmouth. They serve tapas in a quirky small space, but it all packs a huge flavour punch. Tom (my husband, and chef director at The Salutation Inn) and I can sit in here for hours and just keep ordering plate upon plate. Lovely wine, too.

ONE TO WATCH? Red Panda, who do Asian street food in Gandy Street in Exeter, all made from scratch by James and Natalie.

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Uprising Bake House, Exeter EX2 4TA; uprisingbakehouse.co.uk Richard’s, Topsham EX3 0HL; richards-florist.co.uk The GlassHouse at The Salutation Inn, Topsham EX3 0HL; salutationtopsham.co.uk The Turf Hotel, Exeter EX6 8EE; turfpub.net Lympstone Manor, Exmouth EX8 3NZ; lympstonemanor.co.uk Core by Clare Smyth, London W11 2PN; corebyclaresmyth.com The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow PL28 8BY; rickstein.com Greendale Farm Shop, Exeter EX5 2JU; greendale.com Beer Head Bistro, Beer EX12 3AH; beer-head.com El Olivo, Exmouth EX8 1AH; facebook.com/elolivoexmouth Red Panda, Exeter EX4 3LS; @redpandaexeter Bay View Tea Rooms, Beer EX12 3EE; facebook.com/Bay-ViewTea-Rooms-205730036515965 Kenniford Farm Shop, Clyst St Mary EX5 1AQ; kennifordfarm.co.uk Denley’s Essence of India, Topsham EX3 0DY; denleysessenceofindia.co.uk Jasmine Thai, Exeter EX4 3AT; jasmine-thai.co.uk Pebblebed Wine Cellar, Topsham EX3 0JJ; pebblebed.co.uk Country Cheese, Topsham EX3 0HD; countrycheeses.co.uk

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Just over the border in Somerset‌

The Castle Hotel, Castle Green, Taunton, TA1 1NF 01823 272671 www.the-castle-hotel.com